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 > RV antifreeze in freshwater tank for winterizing and my plan

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docnascar

Md

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Posted: 11/07/12 10:02am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The freezing temps are upon us in Md.

I've decided not to put antifreeze in the FW tank. Mainly because as mentioned by a previous poster and it made me look, it will take way more than 2 gallons. Probably 5-8gallons. (just guessing) The pump line on my FW tank is pretty high up.

I ordered an inline pump kit but I may have a problem. I haven't fully looked into this yet, but it appears on my Coachmen apex 18bh, the water line feeding the pump has 0 slack. It won't move an inch. (I need to look under the tub to if maybe the line can be free'd up) To make things worse, it has a 90 in it. Ideas?

This connection is only hand tight and very loose, is that normal?




Because of this I winterized this way so far:
BYPASSED WH and drained...
Turn on pump until air came out of lines to try and remove as much water from the pump as possible.
Put antifreeze into all lines using the city inlet and a hand pump.

Beginner mistakes:
Pumping hand pump while all valves are off (not the best thing to do) while waiting for DW to turn one faucet on. Too much pressure and the hose popped off of the inlet adapter and spitted antifreeze all over me. Doh! Note to all using the hand pumps. Turn the faucet on and don't pump when they are off.


2010 Chevy Silverado LT (4.8L/3:23 rear, trac one rack)
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[Blue Equinox 10.4 Kayak]
2012 Coachmen Apex 18BH (sleeps 5)
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Snowman9000

IL

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Posted: 11/07/12 10:30am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

docnascar,

Go to the hardware store and buy a flex line in the sink/toilet hook up parts. Get one with 1/2" female fitting on each end. Screw it onto your pump and the valve. Attach your tank line to the other side of the valve, and your antifreeze suction tube to the middle side. You should be good to go. That should mean you won't have to use that gray connector or the teflon tape.

They are basically only hand tight, yes. Like a garden hose, they have rubber washers inside. Being on the suction side of the pump, there is no pressure to speak of.

BTW, are you sure you can't re-route the tank line under some of the obstacles in the right of that photo? You might just gain the slack you need to put the valve on without doing what I advised above.


2014 Sunseeker 2300 Class C (Chevy 4500)


Bumpyroad

Virginia

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Posted: 11/07/12 01:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just had the same issue with my TT. what I did was put that wye valve thingy that comes with the winterizing kit into the output side of the pump since like your picture, there was plenty of room there, then I bought a small bilge pump at walmart and using a bucket just pump my antifreeze into the output side of the pump.
you can let a little drain back into the pump but shurflo said that my pump could be run dry.
bumpy





Snowman9000

IL

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Posted: 11/08/12 06:35am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No, a garden hose connector is a special dedicated size. When I looked at your kit photo, it looked like the tee is 1/2" male pipe threads, sometimes known as NPT. You could buy another couple feet of the same size hose at the hardware store, and a plastic coupler to slip in the hoses to connect them and extend the one you've got. Or set aside the hose that came in the kit; buy a plastic 1/2" female connector that has a barb fitting on the other size, and slip your new piece of longer hose over that.

If you describe this to a hardware clerk, with your old hose and tee in hand, they should be able to fix you right up.

BossCamper

Southwestern Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 11/08/12 08:45am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Go ahead and put pink stuff in your FW tank. It isn't toxic, and if it were that bad with after taste, you would taste it from the lines that you fill and leave pink stuff in all winter.
Of course, if your trailer has a winterizing valve, then buy all means use it! Or put one in if you want to, but it isn't wrong to put it in your tank and pump it through the lines.
Many folks have done just that for years with no ill effects.
I personally would never drink straight from a FW tank anyway, and cold bottled water from the fridge is better any day. We've never noticed any taste in the coffee after properly sanitizing the fresh tank, which should be done anyway at the start of the season.

I think your plan for winterizing is just fine.


Experience is that which you gain immediately after you actually needed it.

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docnascar

Md

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Posted: 11/07/12 02:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Snowman9000 wrote:

docnascar,

Go to the hardware store and buy a flex line in the sink/toilet hook up parts. Get one with 1/2" female fitting on each end. Screw it onto your pump and the valve. Attach your tank line to the other side of the valve, and your antifreeze suction tube to the middle side. You should be good to go. That should mean you won't have to use that gray connector or the teflon tape.

They are basically only hand tight, yes. Like a garden hose, they have rubber washers inside. Being on the suction side of the pump, there is no pressure to speak of.

BTW, are you sure you can't re-route the tank line under some of the obstacles in the right of that photo? You might just gain the slack you need to put the valve on without doing what I advised above.


Thanks for the tips! I haven't looked around yet to see if I can free anything up, but I will before I take a trip to the store.

Are garden hose connectors the same size? I'm just curious for the included antifreeze bottle hose (whatever you call it), since its way too short and won't reach over the top and to the bottom of a bottle.

aftermath

Washington State

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Posted: 11/09/12 10:15am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You asked a simple question and have gotten lots of advice about how to winterize your trailer. To answer your question, I would say that what you are planning to do is just fine. Yes, it will protect your trailer and no, it is not harmful. I did this for a number of years with a pop up that only had a 10 gallon tank. I NEVER had a problem rinsing out the tank at the end of the season and never had to deal with the taste of the antifreeze.

I moved up to a larger trailer and chose not to do this simply because it would take 5 or 6 gallons to do the job. I had a bypass at the pump that allowed me to draw directly from the jug. I, like many others here, would suggest that you install one of these.

I drink from my FW tank each time we go out. I guess my system is strong enough to handle all the "bugs" we tote along. I also drink directly from the hose in my yard too! So far, 6 decades and counting, I am still alive to tell the story. Clean your FW tank each year, sanitize it and then use it. Enjoy the trailer.


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Snowman9000

IL

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Posted: 11/10/12 04:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Excellent!

No, the faucets won't matter one way or the other. If there is water trapped somewhere, it will freeze right there. Then as it expands it will expand right where it is. If that makes any sense, lol.

gijoecam

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Posted: 11/09/12 01:16pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Can you do it as you listed? Absolutely. Are there better ways? Definitely.

Using the pump to draw directly from the antifreeze jug is the most efficient and uses very little antifreeze that way. Most trailers and motor homes can be done with no more than two gallons, including the drains and black tank. Popups can often be done with less than a gallon if you do it right.

As someone said earlier, there's no reason not to.

Also, flushing the antifreeze or, specifically, the residual taste it leaves behind, can be a challenge. Last year was our first year with our new to us TT, and it took me two 30 gallon tanks to flush the antifreeze taste out of the lines, and three more 30 gallon tanks to flush the bleach taste away, and even then the first tank full of water was still a bit 'off' for lack of a better description. Everything since then was just fine.

docnascar

Md

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Posted: 11/10/12 03:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here's my after pic. I'll remove the puppy pad that was just to catch any water or potential leaks. The hand tight thing worries me but I guess that's how this stuff is made. I had to extend the bypass hose with a splicer so it could reach the bottom of a jug. Easy to do.

Btw. Do you guys leave the faucets open to allow any potential expansion of any residual water that may be present?




* This post was edited 11/10/12 03:20pm by docnascar *

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