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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Brake repair

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damon2000

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Posted: 11/19/12 09:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What should it cost to have the brake front and rear brake pads replaced on a 2000 Damon Intruder 36 foot Class A Ford chassis?

bldrbuck

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Posted: 11/19/12 11:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Figure 50 to 100 dillars per wheel plus labor. About 4 hours at about 100 dollars an hour.


93 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel, DRW, Crew Cab. PullRite Hitch. 35' King of the Road 5er, 192 Watts Solar, 2800 Watt Yamaha Generator, 1750 Watt Inverter, 2 Trogan T105 Batteries, Me, my wife and 2 maltize furkids.

Wizard 1946

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Posted: 11/20/12 06:12am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cost me about $200 for pads and new front rotors.

Had to do the work myself though. Hardest part was removing the wheels.


Jerry
2000 Journey 36G
2006 Explorer 4X4


Nothing I've got to do and all day to do it

jerseyjim

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Posted: 11/20/12 03:15am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"Just the pads..." yeah. But me....ignoring mine for some 51000 miles....pads, calipers, seals, rotors, all because of that wonderful metal to metal contact sound....2500 bucks.

All 4.

Grin and bear it....based on my experience here, I'd forever recommend pads change around 40-45000.

Just me.

damon2000

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Posted: 11/20/12 08:16am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the replies.
I've got 42,000 miles so the recommendation to do it between 40-45,000 is appreciated.
Tire store estimated $250 per axle with good pads.
Sounds like that's in line.
Bill

Hikerdogs

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Posted: 11/20/12 09:53am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When to change the pads is a function of the type of driving you do. I changed out the pads on our 2001 Ford chassis at 75,000 miles. The fronts still had between 25% - 30% of the pad material remaining. The rears were about 5%. The rears should wear faster than the fronts if everything is in good mechanical condition.
A typical front wheel drive car activates the brakes @ 70% front and 30% rear. Unlike a car the brakes on the Ford F53 chassis are activated 50% front and 50% rear. Since the rear axle carries double the weight of the front the rear pads should wear down first.

The front and rear pads are identical. I agree with Wizard 1946. If you buy pads and wheel seals at a parts house the cost should be around $200.00. Genuine Ford parts will cost a bit more. If you have the work done at a Ford dealer it will cost about $100.00 per wheel


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fourmat

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Posted: 11/20/12 11:54am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

damon2000 wrote:

Thanks for all the replies.
I've got 42,000 miles so the recommendation to do it between 40-45,000 is appreciated.
Tire store estimated $250 per axle with good pads.
Sounds like that's in line.
Bill
Sounds about right for a quality job but at that mileage you can almost count on needing rotors in front


2009 Challenger


Jim@HiTek

Gresham, OR, USA

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Posted: 11/20/12 12:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fourmat wrote:

damon2000 wrote:

Thanks for all the replies.
I've got 42,000 miles so the recommendation to do it between 40-45,000 is appreciated.
Tire store estimated $250 per axle with good pads.
Sounds like that's in line.
Bill
Sounds about right for a quality job but at that mileage you can almost count on needing rotors in front


Where do you get that? Rotors should last the life of the vehicle. Only thing that really hurts them is chronic overheating and/or allowing the pads to wear down too often. In the latter case, they can be turned several times until they run out of material. In the former, if they aren't warped, and only show bluing in a few small areas, then again, they can be reused or turned. Rust is the other failure mode causing a rotor replacement, but again, turning can save all but the worse examples.


Jim@HiTek
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jerseyjim

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Posted: 11/23/12 03:15am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JIM@HITEK: While I agree that under some conditions the rotors SCHOULD be receptive to facing (turning, as you call it) my front rotors were way beyond that. The rear rotors MIGHT have been candidates for facing, but now you have the "mimimum" width of the rotor(s) to deal with, and of course, 99.9% of shops will tell you you're below the minimum (legal) dimensions. Yeah.
In fact...facing rotors just might be a "art" that is losing ground, at least with trucks...like our motorhomes. Shops find it MUCH easier (and cheaper?) to simply replace. No facing (turning) needed. Bolt up and go.
In fact, I'd hazard a guess that many truck repair shops don't even have the lathe anymore to do this, and those that still do don't use the machine or simply put them in a corner somewhere let 'em rot.

Note: my new calipers CAME with the pads ALREADY installed....something else the mechanic doesn't have to do anymore.

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