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Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > Best hitch (non-slider)

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BigToe

USA

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Posted: 01/25/13 07:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ha ha.

WellShooter2 wrote:

"Rust on the parts under the bed? Dust on top of the refrigerator?"


If more people were tall enough to daily see and easily reach the top of their refrigerators, those tops would probably be as clean as the other surfaces they see and use in the kitchen. But of sight, out of mind. That way of thinking doesn't sound too responsible with 18K pounds on the table. Concern for corrosion in highly stressd hitch components is not at all about cosmetics or cleanliness.


Cummins12V98 wrote:

"I have said this before, the B&W is under rated for sure. Compare it to the Curt you have now. There is no way the Curt is any better/stronger built than the B&W."


Recently, I ran across an old brochure in my files about the B&W Companion hitch, circa the turn of the century. In the older version, the jaws used to be thicker, at "a full 1 1/8" thick." Also, the older version Companions for pickup beds had "a pair of gas charged shock abosorbers... that allow the head to pivot a full 7 degrees right and left helping to prevent side to side binding. The shocks also hold the head level for easier hookup." (from brochure).

And the older, higher rated (22K) version for flatbeds used to have an all welded base, in that the upright towers welded in place to the side bracketes which were welded to a 3/4" plate that tide them together through which the insert post was bolted.

It appears now that the current Companions, all versions, have thinner jaws, at 1 inch. Also, instead of a pair of shock absorbers, there is now only 1.

The flatbed Companion is more bolted now than welded. The uprights are now bolted instead of welded to the side plates, which are bolted istead of welded to the base, which is now a form bent box of 1/4" instead of 3/4". Despite being bolted, the flatbed version is still not adjustable like the pickup version is. The older, all welded version looks "stronger" in the pictures.

The pickup version Companion ratings have remained the same, at 18K trailer weight. However, the flatbed version Companion trailer weight ratings increased, from 18K, to the current 22K. The tongue weight ratings were not specified in the early brochure.

The point being, one cannot always tell how strong a hitch is by it's looks. And in the case of an accident, the other party's attorneys are going to be looking everywhere for liability..., even on top of the refrigerator. Under the bed. And at that rating label.

Unrelated to the comments above:

While studying all the different details between Companions, I learned on the phone with B&W that the 20K OE version Companion that clickes into the Reese / Ford underbed pucks is not as adjustable as the pickup bed Companion that mounts into the Turnover ball post.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 01/25/13 11:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Big Toe

I assume they went from 1 1/8" jaws to 1" because the slip plate became popular. The jaws being so thick made a very tight fit with a slip plate.

Even with the 1" jaws and a 1/4" slip plate there is not a lot of slop so it makes it harder to see when the hitch and king pin plate separate when un hitching.

I bought a 1/8" thick slip from Hensley and now it is much easier to see the separation when un hitching.


2011 Ram Laramie Longhorn 3500 Dually Long Bed, Cummins 350/800 HO, Towin Machine
B&W Companion Hitch, Maghytec Trans and Rear Dif Covers, AMZ/OIL Top To Bottom
2007 1/2 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 27,000# Combined

BigToe

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Posted: 01/25/13 08:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Please talk more about being able to see "when the hitch and the king pin plate separate when unhitching".

I'm not so sure I understand what you are saying... how the 1/8" difference enables you to see the B&W jaws release? Or see a slight gap between bearing plates when the landing gear has landed in position to bear the weight of the trailer?

Sounds like you've come up with a solution to something that more people might be interested in, regardless of hitch. My insufficent experience however, blinds me to the benefit, and I need a bit more help to understand and appreciate your tip better. I'm making a mental note nevertheless, but I would like to know more.

mobilcastle

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Posted: 01/26/13 04:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BigToe wrote:

Please talk more about being able to see "when the hitch and the king pin plate separate when unhitching".

I'm not so sure I understand what you are saying... how the 1/8" difference enables you to see the B&W jaws release? Or see a slight gap between bearing plates when the landing gear has landed in position to bear the weight of the trailer?

Sounds like you've come up with a solution to something that more people might be interested in, regardless of hitch. My insufficent experience however, blinds me to the benefit, and I need a bit more help to understand and appreciate your tip better. I'm making a mental note nevertheless, but I would like to know more.

If you watch the king pin plate and the hitch plate as you are raising the the front of the 5ver up, you will see the two plates separate from each other slightly-that is the point which makes it easy to disconnect since you have no weight from the 5ver on the hitch. I hope this explains it for you.


2010 Heartland 3670RL Mor/Ryde PB,dual panes,2-AC,
7000lb axles,G rated LT tires,38' high profile,
2011 Chevy 3500HD,Dually,D/A,LB,EB,4X4,
B&W Companion,GVWR-13,000


Cummins12V98

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Posted: 01/26/13 10:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mobilcastle wrote:

BigToe wrote:

Please talk more about being able to see "when the hitch and the king pin plate separate when unhitching".

I'm not so sure I understand what you are saying... how the 1/8" difference enables you to see the B&W jaws release? Or see a slight gap between bearing plates when the landing gear has landed in position to bear the weight of the trailer?

Sounds like you've come up with a solution to something that more people might be interested in, regardless of hitch. My insufficent experience however, blinds me to the benefit, and I need a bit more help to understand and appreciate your tip better. I'm making a mental note nevertheless, but I would like to know more.

If you watch the king pin plate and the hitch plate as you are raising the the front of the 5ver up, you will see the two plates separate from each other slightly-that is the point which makes it easy to disconnect since you have no weight from the 5ver on the hitch. I hope this explains it for you.


Thank you for a better explanation.

Most hitch jaws are much thinner than the B&W so a 1/4" slip plate is no problem.

The Jaws on the B&W are 1" thick so with a 1/4" plate you don't have much clearance when you are trying to see the gap between the plates so you can disconnect from the RV.

The 1/8" slip plate just gives you a bit more room, nice when it's dark!

The 1/8" plate from Hensley is expensive.

I took the slip plate and laid it on a hard surface and hit the inner edge a few times with a hammer so to tighten it so it would not slip off the KingPin.

BigToe

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Posted: 01/26/13 03:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mobilecastle... thank you for rewording what 12V98 was saying... now I understand completely what he is saying.

Now Cummins, doggone it you've stumped me again! When you say you "hit the inner edge" to tighten the slip plate, do you mean aimed your hammer inside the donut hole of the lube plate? To flare the inside diameter up (perpindicular to the plate) to create a lip? Or do you mean you smashed it in the same pancaked plane, but the distortion from the hits reduced the inside diameter of the donut hole enough to create friction around the king pin?

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 01/26/13 08:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BigToe wrote:

mobilecastle... thank you for rewording what 12V98 was saying... now I understand completely what he is saying.

Now Cummins, doggone it you've stumped me again! When you say you "hit the inner edge" to tighten the slip plate, do you mean aimed your hammer inside the donut hole of the lube plate? To flare the inside diameter up (perpindicular to the plate) to create a lip? Or do you mean you smashed it in the same pancaked plane, but the distortion from the hits reduced the inside diameter of the donut hole enough to create friction around the king pin?


Hey I never claimed to be an English Major! HA

Yes by hitting the edge of the hole in the disk it makes the hole smaller so it stays tight on the Kingpin!

It was loose and would start to slide down. I backed up to hitch and the plate slid down some and it bound and kinked it. Now it is all good.

Just want people to know they may need to "tighten the hole" with a Hensley 1/8" slip plate.

nisham

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Posted: 01/27/13 10:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I bought a TrailerMate hitch last year and I really like it. You can watch it work on You Tube. I had a Reese for years no problems until I purchased a new trailer and it pulled terrible.It would literally make you scared to pull it. It would bounce up and down so bad it would bring the rear wheels off the ground. My TrailerMate cured this.

drfife

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Posted: 01/27/13 10:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

nisham wrote:

I bought a TrailerMate hitch last year and I really like it. You can watch it work on You Tube. I had a Reese for years no problems until I purchased a new trailer and it pulled terrible.It would literally make you scared to pull it. It would bounce up and down so bad it would bring the rear wheels off the ground. My TrailerMate cured this.

Is TrailerMate still in business? Their website seems DOA.


Russell
'12 GMC Sierra 3500HD Duramax Z71
'13 Excel Winslow 34IKE


octanemaniac

Hollywood, MD

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Posted: 09/23/13 04:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bumping this to ask another opinion. I'm setting up a 2013 F450 for a 5'r with a 23.5k gross and 4k+ pin weight. The truck will have airbags. After reading through many posts references and manufacturer sites, I am leaning toward the Pullrite OE Series (25k max) and Trail air pin box. The trailer is "3-axle" MorRyde IS Suspension (no traditional axles).

I'm wondering if I can further improve smoothness of ride by going with an air suspension hitch or if that would be overkill? Very impressed by Hensley's, but I'd have to go with their biggest unit - weighing 360lbs, which would be self defeating in terms of being able to use the truck as a pickup while parked (too much work to remove) and that is an important consideration.

Interested in others thoughts. Thanks.


Tom

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