dgo1369
Georgetown, TX, US
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Joined: 11/22/2003
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I have two cigar recepticles that aren't working for no obvious reason. One is on the dash and has a 20amp fuse. I replaced it even though it didn't look broken and still nothing. The other recepticle is next to the passenger seat on the wall and has no fuse that I can see. Since it is also 12v, I checked all the 12v in the panels but couldn't find where the fuse was for it. I also reset all the GFCI's even though I'm pretty sure they are for 110V. Still nothing.
I use the dash one for satellite radio (and let me tell you that out here in west Texas there are NO radio stations AM or FM) and the other one is used for MS Streets and Trips which help me on the way.
I won't be able to check any responses until at least tomorrow because I'm on the road, but any suggestions would be appreciated. FWIW, I'm electronically challenged and don't even know how to use a multi meter to check to see if the recepticles are hot or not.
Dennis Osha
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Old-Biscuit
Across the USA
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I'd be checking the chassis fuse panel for a blown fuse..........power outlets.
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Dick_B
Palos Heights, IL USA
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It's time to learn how to use the multimeter ie. VOM (volt ohm meter) to the electric gurus.
How do you know they are not working? Is it possible that there is a fuse in the connector of the device you are plugging in? The VOM test for power would eliminate that possibility.
If there is no power to the outlet there must be another fuse that needs to be changed. If there is power the problem is with the devices.
Dick_B
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1995brave
San Antonio, TX
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Is this in a car, truck, Class A, B, or C and what model.
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Dennis M M
Geneva, IL; Tucson, AZ
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In many cases the center connection - positive - in a lighter receptacle will be corroded or even burned from intermittent connections.
Pull the fuse so you are sure the circuit is dead then scrap the center electrode until you see a shiny surface. Good chance that will fix it.
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Gene&Ginny
North Kingstown, RI
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Both of mine are only live when the ignition is on / engine running.
Gene and DW Ginny
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dgo1369
Georgetown, TX, US
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Old-Biscuit wrote:I'd be checking the chassis fuse panel for a blown fuse..........power outlets.
I did, they're fine.
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dgo1369
Georgetown, TX, US
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Dick_B wrote:It's time to learn how to use the multimeter ie. VOM (volt ohm meter) to the electric gurus.
How do you know they are not working? Is it possible that there is a fuse in the connector of the device you are plugging in? The VOM test for power would eliminate that possibility.
If there is no power to the outlet there must be another fuse that needs to be changed. If there is power the problem is with the devices.
I bought one and learned - well I learned how to see if a recepticle was hot or not - and the recepticles are not hot. I mentioned above about changing the auromotive fuse and I have no idea where the fuse for the other recepticle is. At this point I'm wondering if my inverter may be gone and if this is my problem???
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dgo1369
Georgetown, TX, US
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1995brave wrote:Is this in a car, truck, Class A, B, or C and what model.
I don't understand what possible difference this makes so it will be another in the steps to educate me. FWIW, I have a Class A, Itasca Suncruiser.
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dgo1369
Georgetown, TX, US
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Dennis M M wrote:In many cases the center connection - positive - in a lighter receptacle will be corroded or even burned from intermittent connections.
Pull the fuse so you are sure the circuit is dead then scrap the center electrode until you see a shiny surface. Good chance that will fix it.
It has a good shiny surface. It has been fine until I started this trip three days ago. What I don't understand is the correlation between the two recepticles?
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