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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes

 > California SMOG related question - 1983 Jamboree

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gotsmart

Aberdeen, WA

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Posted: 01/20/13 12:11am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DaHose wrote:

...
I have tools and ability to do the work. What I don't have is time, but labor rates in my are are $175 per hour for heavy duty vehicles.

...

Jeez! How far are you from Oregon? I haven't been south of McMinnville, Oregon yet - but RV labor rates in in Wilsonville are $119/hour. I do not know if the rates at RV shops on the OR side of the border would be similar or higher. If you're close enough then call a few shops over the border for info. If worth it then save up the money to have 2 or 3 non-DIY repairs done in OR, and save on paying sales tax to boot.


2005 Cruise America 28R (Four Winds 28R) on a 2004 Ford E450 SD 6.8L V10 4R100
2009 smart fortwo Passion with Roadmaster "Falcon 2" towbar & tail light kit - pictures

DaHose

No. Cal.

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Posted: 01/20/13 12:29am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm in Napa, down around San Francisco. I wish I could skip over the border and have it taken care of.

Labor rates in the valley are out there. That's why I became a mechanic. I couldn't afford to have others work on my vehicles.

Jose

j-d

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Posted: 01/20/13 05:59am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We had a 1983 E350 chassis under our first C. At that vintage, if it ever backfired, there's a good chance the Power Valve got ruptured internally. Newer Holleys have a check valve to keep manifold PRESSURE (backfire) from reaching the valve. so if you rebuild it, also get a Check Valve Kit from a speed shop. AutoZone used to have them but I doubt they do anymore. It's a screw that replaces a specific one from the bottom up into the bowl body, and a plug for the original hole. The screw has a spring and check ball in it.
On ours, the EGR valve rusted out and had to be replaced. I also found the EGR "plate" (between Carb and Manifold) was stuck/rusted to the studs that hold the carb down so the gasket between Plate and Manifold was loose and failed. Based on my experience, I'd offer:
1. Rebuld Carb
2. Install Backfire Check
3. Lift Plate and Replace Gasket
4. Install Carb with new Gasket/Heat Isolator (the thick one)
5. Tune Up with Plugs, Plug Cables, Cap, Rotor (if you haven't recently)
6. Bring it to Emissions Station HOT
If you look at Holley's replacement Carb pages, I don't think you will find one rated for Motorhome use. Since you are in CA, I suggest you not wander far from the original design.
Pray the above works! 460s have been known to have leaky Intake Manifolds! That's a Long, HEAVY (!!!) job.


If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

PaulJ2

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Posted: 01/20/13 04:56pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Readings show high hydrocarbons and high exhaust oxygen content which indicates lean missfire. Agree with most others on here---Rebuild/tune carb, look for vacuum leaks in the EGR spacer area. Maybe replace cat if equiped.

Grillmeister

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Posted: 01/20/13 07:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DaHose,

I have a 24' 1984 Ford Jamboree Class C, it has a 460 with a 600 cfm Holly Carb, with no catalytic converter. I have had it for ten years. I have about 65,000 miles on it and the carb was rebuilt ten years ago with 29,000 miles on the clock.

A couple years ago I failed smog in Southern California with a CO reading of 980, a passing number was around 250 for my rig.

My problem was a vacuum leak from the EGR plate under the Carb. The plate gets so hot it turns blue and fry’s the gaskets. In my experience the intake manifold to EGR plate gasket and the EGR plate to the Carb gasket only last about six or seven years.

After I replaced both gaskets my CO reading went down to 008, no that is not a misprint, it went from 980 to 8 and I passed with flying colors.

Another thing about the smog check guys in California, a good guy really feathers the throttle during the test. A bad guy stomps on the throttle causing you to fail for sure.

I also use lots of Sea Foam and when I went for the test I added a couple cans of the stuff that “Guarantees’” you to pass. Don’t know if any of that really works but I did it just the same.

Please let us know how you make out and if you have any specific questions just PM me, I may be able to help as we have almost the exact same drive train.

I would hate to do the intake manifold gasket for nothing if it does not need it. My distributor is practically welded to the intake manifold due to electrolysis’.

I can’t say for sure, but several guys have told me that the new carbs are junk, I would tend to want to keep my original one if I could.

Good Luck!

Time for a BEER!

Gary

* This post was last edited 01/21/13 08:22am by Grillmeister *   View edit history


Show me the GRILL and STAND BACK!!!!


DaHose

No. Cal.

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Posted: 01/21/13 10:42am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for posting Gary and JD. I had read that a leak at the EGR plate makes a big difference. Talk about a dramatic change there Gary!

My CO numbers are not far off, it's the HC's that are causing an abort of the test. Based on the feedback, I will pull off the carb., replace gasket and spacer and have the stock Holley rebuilt.

Thanks for the help folks. Hearing your experiences gives me a lot of confidence I'll be able to get it all done real soon and enjoy our RV time.

Jose

j-d

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Posted: 01/21/13 12:35pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ours had a problem that I sure hope yours doesn't. The EGR valve's operated with a vacuum hose. The vacuum to that hose is controlled with a crude electronic servo. On ours, servo would open the valve at high speed like it should but then did not dump the vacuum as the engine came back to idle. It'd miss, even stall. Couple that with replacing OEM EGR Valve with a generic one, and I had issues. Ended up "controlling" it with a restrictor in a vacuum hose run direct to the carb base. Not good but OK.

jeffengle

Montana

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Posted: 01/21/13 01:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

if you are going to rebuild the carb yourself, be sure to weigh the flote, they absorb gas and become heavy, that creates rich mixture. are you sure it is a holley carb, I do not think ford used holleys from the factory, they mostly used their own carbs. jeff

Calisdad

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Posted: 01/21/13 03:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Believe it or not the rest of us might help you pay the bill. California has a program to help owners get their vehicles to pass smog. See if you qualify:

http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/01_CAP&GoldShield/Factsheets/English%20RA%20FAQs.pdf

DaHose

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Posted: 01/21/13 04:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Got the carburetor off. No burn through and the gaskets looked pretty good, but I see signs of possible leakage. Everything looks so good, I am not going to touch the intake for now.

I have the carburetor on its way to a contact from another forum who does tons of Holley rebuilds in his shop/business.

Jeff - I'm positive it is a Holley. On the body it says "Manufactured by Holley for Motorcraft". The Motorcraft tag says E3TE ST A 3A6. On one of the other sides it reads 9258D. This carb. looks to be from the Holley 4180 family.

Jose

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