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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes

 > pricing on replacing roof OUCH!

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Wrong Lane

Fredericton, NB

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Posted: 01/21/13 08:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can buy the roof material from PPL for around $500.00. The plywood is likely 1/4 inch and by the sounds of things you may only need one sheet. If you buy all the proper installation kits, caulking, glue, sealants add about another $500.00 Rough worse case senirio estimate on material is likely $1500.00 on the high side.

Is this a job you would consider doing yourself? There are Y-Tube videos showing roof replacement projects. The hardest part would be finding covered shelter to keep the elements off the rig while doing the job. If this is not something you can tackle then your estimates from repair shops sound reasonable.

First thing you need to do is find the leak and stop further damage before the repair costs escalate. If the water gets down to the sides of your rig and delamination starts -- well then it is time to trade.

Good luck, water is an RV owners worst enemy.


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Bordercollie

Garden Grove, CA, USA

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Posted: 01/21/13 08:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Speaking of today's prices, we recently paid $729 for new awning fabric, $1400 for a new fridge, $800 for roof A/C cooling unit and $1500 for a set of six new Michelins for our 2004 Tioga 26Q which we bought new in late 2003. Owning a motorhome is not cheap. We just paid Roto Rooter $6K for an epoxy sock to fix our home sewer line to the street. I recently paid over $300 for six months worth of dog heart worm and flea prevention meds for. My first car,a '50 Ford cost me $300 in 1958. I made under $3 per hour back then.

maillemaker

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Posted: 01/22/13 12:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, I don't know what kind of RV you have or what you paid for it.

I've got a 1990 Winnebago Warrior. It had a roof leak, and it rotted out the shower and a fair amount of wood in the wood/foam/wood laminate that makes up the roof.

What *should* be done is the roof replaced, along with any soft spots. But it is not worth it on a 22 year old RV. Especially when in order to do it right, all the internal cabinets would need to be removed in order to pull the roof off from above.

So what I did was rip out the rot that I could get at from the inside, and I bought a gallon of that Heng's roof sealer paint ($80), and I found places on the roof where caulk had split open letting water in. I gooped the******out of everything that looked like it could possibly leak, let it dry, and gooped it again.

It's not a good way to repair things - just covering up the problem, but it is what makes economic sense on a $7500 RV that is 22 years old.

The leak has stopped, and the inside looks good as new with a rebuilt shower and replaced headliner (I replaced the headliner with the same fiberglass paneling I used for the shower stall).

$5000 goes a long way to a new RV.

Steve


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Mudshovel

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Posted: 01/23/13 12:46am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If your idea was to fix it yourself, I say go for it, motorhomes are not that hard to take apart, there just screws, staples and glue. I would asume the soft spot is the inside ceiling panel? this may not be the end of the world. It really comes down to how your motorhome was built, alot of them have metal and wood framing with verious plywood thikness sandwiched with either fiberglass or foam insulation in the middle.
Have you been on the roof? is that the "soft" spot you are feeling? You may just simply find the leak, stop it and dry out as you may just have some plywood that has delaminated a bit and or unglued a bit. I think we could all use a bit more info on the actual damage.

With that said I've done wall and roof repairs and complete replacement and they are time consuming but not impossible.

I'm currently replacing a entire wall on a old Shasta MH.

One thing I think we could ALL agree on is you need to stop the leak asap! and try to assist in drying out you MH depending on you climate the use of heat or dehumidifier fans etc may be needed.

Somtimes I've had to drill a small hole or two into the inside ceiling panel to let water drain out.

Then there is the ugly side of this, I don't know how old your rig is but for you to say basicly I knew I had a problem and blew it off tell it got worse and that may lead me to believe there is other overlooked issuses and water damage etc.

squires5

Winthrop, ME

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Posted: 01/24/13 07:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The soft spot is the the roof. The inside panel is not soft nor showing any signs of leaking.
I didn't blow off trying to fix the leak-- I noticed last fall the roof was soft near the tv antenna. I caulked around the antenna and over the area where it was soft. I don't know where else the water is coming in from. The soft spot has since doubled so I figure the plywood is rotted and the rot is spreading. I was hoping I could replace this section of the roof.


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Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 01/24/13 08:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it is not leaking I would watch it for a while and stay off the ladder but I am sure that is your plan.

Mudshovel

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Posted: 01/25/13 07:59am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

squires5 wrote:

The soft spot is the the roof. The inside panel is not soft nor showing any signs of leaking.
I didn't blow off trying to fix the leak-- I noticed last fall the roof was soft near the tv antenna. I caulked around the antenna and over the area where it was soft. I don't know where else the water is coming in from. The soft spot has since doubled so I figure the plywood is rotted and the rot is spreading. I was hoping I could replace this section of the roof.


That darn antenna, I'm replacing a entire wall due to a leak at the antenna. If there is no damage inside like sagging panels, sounds like you just need to renew your seams on your roof, like the edge seams and vents antena etc. There are a few ways to do this, eterna bond, looks like******but sticks to everything! (i would never use this) secound is to remove edge trim and roof vents antenna clean the surface of butyl and replace the screws and vinyl screw covers lay a new strip of butyl tape (this stuff is cheap and you can get it at any rv shop) and your antenna may need a new turret seal or cable seal etc. If you want to go all out and replace some wood (and I'd admire that) It may be very hard to pull up the roofing due to the fact it's likely glued down and it will pull up easy over the wet/ rotten wood it will be hard with out destroying it to remove from good wood etc.
I've sealed alot of seams using the above method and have never had return leaks! Just need some time, couple hundred feet of butyl big box of screws, drill/ driver and a wire wheel for you drill and some good weather to get it done! Good luck.

JDMopar

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Posted: 02/03/13 11:25am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We had to have pretty much the same roof repair/replacement done to our 33' 5th wheel. The material to replace the rubber roof,2 new sheets of plywood,enough 1/4" luan to deck over the original plywood, new insulation to replace what got wet, and a new skylight for the shower came to around $1600. The guy who did ours did a fantastic job, and the total for material and labor was $3300. I saw what all he had to do, and he earned his $1700 in labor! Unless your RV is a little bitty 18-20' class C, $3500 isn't a bad price if you can't or don't want to do it yourself. Good luck.

Dakzuki

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Posted: 02/03/13 06:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

None of it is rocket science but some of the materials aren't so cheap and it is very labor intensive. Add the hourly rate for a business and it gets spendy really quick. A DIY job if you have the skills can lead to to a roof job better than original...especially if you opt for better materials in the structure.


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gotsmart

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Posted: 02/03/13 10:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the roof replaced on my 30' Class C in July 2012 for $3,000.00
The roof is about 220 square feet or so. The price included a new luan deck, new AC gasket/seal, rubber roof, and new gutters.


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