Ordered a set of Bilsteins from EShocks, said they were in stock. 2 weeks, no shocks, called them. They said they were out of stock but would have them in 2 days. 2 more weeks, no shocks. Cancelled order, took a week for them to credit my CC that they had already charged. Wound up getting them locally for $3 more per shock, and they installed them for that price.
Hope your order goes better.
The Bilsteins were pretty decent, not as good as the OEM shocks (Ranchers), but a LOT better than the Monroe's that were on there for a week before I took them back off. This was on my 05 F250 PSD SCREW.
2011 Ford F-150 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 EcoBoost -a 6 cylinder hemi stomper
2012 Harley Street Glide -ember red sunglo
Yamaha Grizzly 660 (his)
Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O.(hers)
Which Chassis do you have? Following pic is of the driver side shock on our 2002 E450
I was also able to get two wrenches on the passenger side in the same way. If your OEM front shocks have that lower hex, you should be OK doing the change.
As I recall, the upper wrench, box end on the shock top nut, is 15mm and the lower one, open end on the shaft hex, is 19mm.
I changed the front shocks on our 1983 E350 about the same way, but I think that time I had a ratcheting box wrench.
Upper bolts on the right rear are a little hard to work. Not so much because of the shock itself, but because the tailpipe is in that area.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
just changed my OEM shocks for a set of the silver Bilstein shocks (I have a 31ft MH so wanted all the help I could get) front and rear. You'll need the SAE wrenches to remove the OEM shocks then Metric ones for the Bilstein ones.
If you have the OEM shocks still on the MH easier to just cut the old upper rubber donut out with a knife.
A set of 17, 18, and 19mm wrenches will get the job done to install the new ones. Not enough room for sockets so those newer ratcheting wrenches work great!