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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Norcold LI OP flashing again

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deereone

NE

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Joined: 12/20/2005

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Posted: 02/27/13 08:04am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

1. 6 hours is not even close for a test but IF Norcold told them, then Norcold is worried about liability if the CU leaks. In a Shop, it would go 24 hours BEFORE any other testing is done
2. Is this unit in a Slideout?
3. Has ANYONE verified that the cooling fans are operating???? They should have come on after 2 to 3 hours in your ambient temp. If they are NOT running, that is probably why it is not cooling
4. Has anyone verified the bottom to top outside ventilation is NOT blocked if NOT in a slide?
5. What is the delivery date on the RV, you stated it was in warranty. Doug


No it is not in a slideout.
Cooling fans were running the last time before it quit cooling. Now there is no heat in the coils and the fans are not running. Why would the fans run at 55 or 60 degrees??
Repair did check for blockage
It is on last year of warranty and it's parts only at this point.

After 6 hours of running, the coils on the back were still cold and inside temperature did not rise at all. Repair said it has a blockage and is calling Norcold back to see that the next move is.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 02/27/13 10:30am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The fans run NOT from outside ambient but from the temp sensor disc on top of the condensor fins. When the backside heat gets hi enough the fans come on. It is extremely rare for a 1200/1210 series Norcold to have a blockage as the controls will throw a NO CO code when you operate out of level or any parameter where the cooling unit is not in spec. The NO CO is a cooling unit protection device built into the logic of the control board. I would suspect a leakage, so small it is not very noticeable. Doug

deereone

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Posted: 02/27/13 12:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

The fans run NOT from outside ambient but from the temp sensor disc on top of the condensor fins. When the backside heat gets hi enough the fans come on. It is extremely rare for a 1200/1210 series Norcold to have a blockage as the controls will throw a NO CO code when you operate out of level or any parameter where the cooling unit is not in spec. The NO CO is a cooling unit protection device built into the logic of the control board. I would suspect a leakage, so small it is not very noticeable. Doug
Ok I guess your number 3 confused me: 3. "Has ANYONE verified that the cooling fans are operating???? They should have come on after 2 to 3 hours in your ambient temp". If they are NOT running, that is probably why it is not cooling. I guess I thought you were saying the fans should come on after 2 or 3 hours even at 55 degrees with no heating of the coils. Waiting for repair to contact Norcold now for the next move, I understand Norcold located around Ann Arbor, MI has a storm related power outage.

deereone

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Posted: 02/28/13 02:50pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

The fans run NOT from outside ambient but from the temp sensor disc on top of the condensor fins. When the backside heat gets hi enough the fans come on. It is extremely rare for a 1200/1210 series Norcold to have a blockage as the controls will throw a NO CO code when you operate out of level or any parameter where the cooling unit is not in spec. The NO CO is a cooling unit protection device built into the logic of the control board. I would suspect a leakage, so small it is not very noticeable. Doug

Just talked to the RV repair and Norcold wants him to do another 6 hour test with the wire on the back of the light disconnected and fridge set to a 9. And so it goes. Makes me wonder if they are putting me off hoping to get by till the warranty expires.

dforce1

TN

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Posted: 02/28/13 04:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can put a jumper from "limit in" to "limit out". Best way to confirm cooling unit: have the service tech wire the 2 AC elements straight (confirm resistance first) to a known good AC power source (confirm voltage after it's plugged in), wire both fans straight to a DC power source. After a short period of time confirm the 2 fans running because the condenser temp is warm enough to set/close fan switch sending DC voltage to fans. If no fans running, get that problem fixed first. No fan no cooling for the Norcold 1200. If fans are running, then your cooling unit is set to get as cold as possible. I do not like the test of using the #9, simplely because there's still to many things to cause problems. As Norcold will say on #9 it should get cold as possible. Why leave a should work item in place when trying to confirm. A PC board does not normally control temp, but it does control a defrost mode which your refrig may go in and out during your testing, why leave that in place another should work that item. Right or wrong I would take out as many things as possible, down to the bare basic needed items that can be confirmed as you test correct heat (never try to confirm a cooling unit with LP gas), correct air flow through condenser, correct level, and correct venting. Now if the unit fails easy to confirm which failed, if your unit work great, over cools it has to be one of the items omitted during testing. Wired straight is only for testing to confirm. Never leave longer than needed to confirm.

deereone

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Posted: 03/01/13 12:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dforce1 wrote:

You can put a jumper from "limit in" to "limit out". Best way to confirm cooling unit: have the service tech wire the 2 AC elements straight (confirm resistance first) to a known good AC power source (confirm voltage after it's plugged in), wire both fans straight to a DC power source. After a short period of time confirm the 2 fans running because the condenser temp is warm enough to set/close fan switch sending DC voltage to fans. If no fans running, get that problem fixed first. No fan no cooling for the Norcold 1200. If fans are running, then your cooling unit is set to get as cold as possible. I do not like the test of using the #9, simplely because there's still to many things to cause problems. As Norcold will say on #9 it should get cold as possible. Why leave a should work item in place when trying to confirm. A PC board does not normally control temp, but it does control a defrost mode which your refrig may go in and out during your testing, why leave that in place another should work that item. Right or wrong I would take out as many things as possible, down to the bare basic needed items that can be confirmed as you test correct heat (never try to confirm a cooling unit with LP gas), correct air flow through condenser, correct level, and correct venting. Now if the unit fails easy to confirm which failed, if your unit work great, over cools it has to be one of the items omitted during testing. Wired straight is only for testing to confirm. Never leave longer than needed to confirm.


Norcold has settled on the idea it needs a new thermistor. So they are sending one. I don't see what the thermistor has to do with my original problem of getting a LI OP code 3 times in 2 months.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 03/01/13 12:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

deereone wrote:

dforce1 wrote:

You can put a jumper from "limit in" to "limit out". Best way to confirm cooling unit: have the service tech wire the 2 AC elements straight (confirm resistance first) to a known good AC power source (confirm voltage after it's plugged in), wire both fans straight to a DC power source. After a short period of time confirm the 2 fans running because the condenser temp is warm enough to set/close fan switch sending DC voltage to fans. If no fans running, get that problem fixed first. No fan no cooling for the Norcold 1200. If fans are running, then your cooling unit is set to get as cold as possible. I do not like the test of using the #9, simplely because there's still to many things to cause problems. As Norcold will say on #9 it should get cold as possible. Why leave a should work item in place when trying to confirm. A PC board does not normally control temp, but it does control a defrost mode which your refrig may go in and out during your testing, why leave that in place another should work that item. Right or wrong I would take out as many things as possible, down to the bare basic needed items that can be confirmed as you test correct heat (never try to confirm a cooling unit with LP gas), correct air flow through condenser, correct level, and correct venting. Now if the unit fails easy to confirm which failed, if your unit work great, over cools it has to be one of the items omitted during testing. Wired straight is only for testing to confirm. Never leave longer than needed to confirm.


Norcold has settled on the idea it needs a new thermistor. So they are sending one. I don't see what the thermistor has to do with my original problem of getting a LI OP code 3 times in 2 months.


It has nothing to do with Li OP. But, it can have everything to do with the non cooling issue. The possible problem with multiple LI OP tripping may have to do with inadequate floating grounds on your RV. The solution to this is to run a dedicated 10 gauge wire from the refer frame to the Chassis frame and from the 12 volt ground plate. This is according to Norcold. Doug

deereone

NE

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Joined: 12/20/2005

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Posted: 03/01/13 04:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

deereone wrote:

dforce1 wrote:

You can put a jumper from "limit in" to "limit out". Best way to confirm cooling unit: have the service tech wire the 2 AC elements straight (confirm resistance first) to a known good AC power source (confirm voltage after it's plugged in), wire both fans straight to a DC power source. After a short period of time confirm the 2 fans running because the condenser temp is warm enough to set/close fan switch sending DC voltage to fans. If no fans running, get that problem fixed first. No fan no cooling for the Norcold 1200. If fans are running, then your cooling unit is set to get as cold as possible. I do not like the test of using the #9, simplely because there's still to many things to cause problems. As Norcold will say on #9 it should get cold as possible. Why leave a should work item in place when trying to confirm. A PC board does not normally control temp, but it does control a defrost mode which your refrig may go in and out during your testing, why leave that in place another should work that item. Right or wrong I would take out as many things as possible, down to the bare basic needed items that can be confirmed as you test correct heat (never try to confirm a cooling unit with LP gas), correct air flow through condenser, correct level, and correct venting. Now if the unit fails easy to confirm which failed, if your unit work great, over cools it has to be one of the items omitted during testing. Wired straight is only for testing to confirm. Never leave longer than needed to confirm.


Norcold has settled on the idea it needs a new thermistor. So they are sending one. I don't see what the thermistor has to do with my original problem of getting a LI OP code 3 times in 2 months.


It has nothing to do with Li OP. But, it can have everything to do with the non cooling issue. The possible problem with multiple LI OP tripping may have to do with inadequate floating grounds on your RV. The solution to this is to run a dedicated 10 gauge wire from the refer frame to the Chassis frame and from the 12 volt ground plate. This is according to Norcold. Doug


I was talking to another camper today. His had a LI OP code on his Norcold a few days ago. The repair guy he called said every time it rains he gets several calls for the code. He said he had 7 calls for the code the day it was very windy and raining. Also he said it has happened a few times after someone has washed their RV. I guess that's something I'll have to take note of if I get the code again. I'll keep the ground idea in mind to after we get back home. Thanks

* This post was edited 03/03/13 07:08am by deereone *

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