Mt. Rainier National Park
Multnoma Falls on the Columbia River
If you go to Cape Flattery, these make for nice stops on Hwy 101 loop along the way--
Sol Duc Hot Springs
Ocean Shores on the Pacific coast
I would not put it under the truck/camper...CO poison!
That's exactly where they are mounted on most motorhomes and vans,with the exhaust pointed away..
X2 - as well as TC's with Genny's hard mounted.
I don't use my Honda's much at all since I have a lot of batteries, inverter and solar, but when I do, I put mine under the slide and/or part of the truck. As far as exhaust, I just point it away like any other RV does.
Brad! Long time no see.
I was very seriously considering a 2017 F450 - Look at those before you make up your mind on a 350 - LOTS of differences now, like 19.5's, Dana110 rear end, and bigger brakes, just to name a few. I did a LOT of research....But the $82k OTD price pushed me into a used 2015.
I don't think they've announced HP/Tq even now, but word is they will push the tq from 850 to 1,000ftlbs just for bragging rights. A programmer will take any of the current 6.7's there. I can personally attest to not needing it though, see my thread on Observations - Going from an '01 F350 DRW to a '15 F450.
Here's a post in a thread I did before buying my '15, comparing 2016 to 2017 F450, as well as F350 vs. F450--
Ford tests 2017 SD with TC simulator.
Going from a 7.3L to a 6.7L. I was chatting with JimH and he said I should post my impression of old truck vs. new.
I just came back Saturday from 9 days in the north Idaho Rockies, loaded with all the toys, about 350 miles each way. Thought I would post my observations from my first roadtrip with my 'new to me' 2015 F450.
Wow. That's all I gotta say.... wow.
Everything is so much better...Power, suspension, power, ride comfort, power, and stability. I had done pretty much everything you could do to an '01 DRW to haul a TC and trailer, short of pulling the motor and having it professionally built---
*Banks Cold Air Intake
*4" full turbo back exhaust
*Superchips tuner set to 'Race'/110hp for the last 10 or so years--with of course all the standard gauges to make sure I didn't over-do it.
*Roadmaster Sway Bars
*MosterBox $4k aftermarket Tranny
*F550 rear suspension w/Torklift StableLoads
The new F450 - bone stock except for StableLoads and Bags(needed both - bags alone, 100psi, StableLoads alone - camper alone was fine, but adding trailer tongue weight made it sag).
So, I was running ~26k/27kLbs. We have four hard pulls between me and North Idaho -- used to pull Tiger Mtn @45, now 60 with pedal to spare. Snoqualmie, speed limit all the way from North Bend to the top....just set the cruise control, hit "Tow/Haul" and let it do it's thing. Used to be 45-50 in my old truck max'ing out the pyro near the top. In the new truck, I actually had to slow down to take the final turn at the top. Vantage - 70. 4th of July Pass in Idaho - again, the corners were my limiting factor. Last year, 45mph tops.
My old truck - you were fully aware of the fact you were pushing it hard, turbo noise, exhaust, radiator fan coming on and off like a big jet engine. This thing, nothing. No noise other than Freebird coming out of the stereo. Coming down - Jake brake was absolutely awesome. Coming back down Snoqualmie, set the cruise at 65 and it just kept downshifting till it held it. Went from 6th to 4th, then on the level spots back to 6th.
And - I got better MPG to boot. The Lie-O-Meter is dead on compared to hand calculated. Pulling all those passes loaded I would average 7.5mpg there, 8 back. I was 8.5 there, 9.0 back. It went into Regen twice which killed it, I was a one point at 9.5 before that kicked in. I smell a full DPF delete in my future.
I bought a brand new Firestone airbag kit for it and put it on prior to leaving since the Stableloads didn't quite make it on the stock springs. Have to decide whether I'm going to keep them or ditch the bags for an overload spring pack and StableLoads like my old truck.
I have a Morningstar TS-MPPT-45 ... with which I am very happy... The TS-MPPT-45 (and 60) can be found there for just over $400 (that's where I bought mine a few years back - from "mlsolar"
I have the same controller from the same seller, www.MLSolar.com. Service/phone support was excellent, but I understand if a $400 controller is more than you need.
I referred a friend to this package just the other day, I thought it was a good buy---
Renogy 200w Solar kit on Amazon
Comes with a Renogy MPPT controller that can handle 100v VOC
2 Renogy 100w panels
All cables and mounts
Or, if you think you may want to add more panels later, the same listing has an option to upgrade to a 400w MPPT controller for $70 more.
Given what you're describing about your solar pre-wiring, I would wire the panels in series. I have 4 panels on my trailer wired in both series and parallel because I had to. The controller is limited to 150voc, and each panel I have is 48voc, so I'm running 96voc per pair of panels
Lots of people here with nice older trucks. My 2 cents worth - I'd do a "Rustoration"--- Leave that worn/vintage look, sand it, spray it with clear, with all new running gear, or whatever new running gear you had intended to do.
Looking at the Cooper Roadmaster RM253 in 14-ply/G load rating. Just wondering if anyone is running them and how they compared to the original tires for sidewall flex/TC sway.
They also have the same tire in a 12-ply/F load rating, but I'm looking mainly at the G. 90psi vs 110psi, 3640lbs vs. 3970lbs.
I'm looking at these for the all-terrain tread, and of course, cost is a factor. A set of 6 locally runs ~$1800 m/b/tx.
in addition to LS -- Tiny's Tire, S&S Tire both in Tacoma. Or any commercial truck service center, like Goodyear in Fife.
**DO NOT go to Pep Boys.**
They sold me a set of 6 for my new truck, assured me they could mount and balance 19.5s. They took my money, ordered them, they showed up a week later.
I spent 3 HOURS there only for them to not only tell me they couldn't balance then, they COULDN'T EVEN INFLATE THEM!!! Their air chuck only went to 90 psi, I bought 16 ply requiring 110psi.
Then... they told me they found out the hard way they couldn't balance them---after they had dismounted one and did not mark the old tire to rim position. I canceled the whole thing, they put the old one back on, and sent me out with a completely unbalanced tire.
I spent another hour the next day waiting my turn at Les Schwab getting that one tire re-balanced.
This all happened a week ago......
Normally, a kink in a hose it would either work or not- the refrigerator uses so little LP that the hose can be 90% blocked, but still work fine .
The most common problem with units in a slide are the back cooling fans stop working- these are critical for proper cooling.
I have your exact same TC.
X2 on the hose, not it. In addition to that, if the hose were kinked, your fridge would error out and not light up, and you'd have the "Check" light come on.
I had this exact same problem on a toyhauler I owned where the fridge was also on a slide. Freezer would get to 40, fridge 58.
Since the fridge is on the slide and not the side wall, we do not have a roof vent, we have upper and lower side vents, with a fan forcing air through the upper vent. That fan had quit, causing the coils to never cool down. Problem was traced to a bad thermister - the little thermal switch that turns the fan on and off.
Fire up your fridge and after about an hour, go out and see if the fan is coming on. Also, check to see that critters did not get up in there and make a new home in there.
I hate to be the one to say this...
I've seen this before on a ClassA MH someone I knew owned. Defective Filon. Once it has started showing up, it will continue popping up at random all over. Had to do with the resins being mixed just slightly off during the manufacturing of the filon, and in his case, the MH was about 6-ish years old when it started popping up everywhere.
Nothing can be done except a complete reside.
So, had been working for the last week and a half on my new (to me) 2015 F450 getting it ready for short trip with just the TC this weekend. I have a much longer trip in 2 weeks, but only one more major thing to do to haul my TC with my trailer.
Went from my place to the Packwood Flea market - the whole entire town of Packwood, WA turns into one huge flea market. I do it every year. I stay on a privately owned property that the owner uses for day and overnight parking. $15/night gets you your own strip of grass.
As I'm leaving, I stop to talk about reserving a spot for next year with the family patriarch who oversees everything. She looks over in the driveway at my shiny new truck and says---
"That seems so out of place with such a nice new truck with one of those old fashioned campers on it".
I told her the truck is a '15 and the camper's only 2 years older. She said---
"Oh, I didn't think they made those any more".
Congrats! We're finally on an equal playing field.I finally step'd up to a F450 also a couple weeks ago and have been working on it getting it ready for a TC roadtrip... But yours is all shiny new, mine's used....:R
It's paid for. You have no problem storing it. However..you mentioned sweeping the snow off it. If you're leaving it outside all bare naked, put some form of hard cover over it.
That being said...
I absolutely would not give it up. You're not going to be remodeling your house forever. You'll kick yourself when you're done for selling it.
I thought I was getting everything I needed when I bought our dually. It's a 2001 F350 4x4 dually. Lifted, Bilstein nitrogen racing shocks, air bags, front and rear anti-sway bars
I had the EXACT same truck as you, and went through every suspension upgrade you can do to an '01 F350 DRW.
Your first problem - it's lifted. Un-lift it.
My absolute-bar-none best-bang-for-the-buck to control sway when i got my Eagle Cap double slide 1160 was Roadmaster sway bars front and rear. HUGE improvement.
I also got Rancho 9000's. They took the "float" out of the ride, but that's what shocks are for, not sway control. That's the job of the sway bars.
I never did bags. I had F550 springs with StableLoads. That did wonders for leveling it out, but again, not much for sway - carrying the weight is the job of the springs, sway bars are for sway. Don't try and cross-solve this problem thinking shocks or springs will solve sway.
Get the parts to solve what they're designed to solve.
First, check the tire pressure in front and rear
x2 for sure - run your tire pressure up to the max recommended on the side wall, otherwise you'll get sidewall compression.
you got/ put on the wrong front tiedowns. You installed a f2012 for short bed instead of f2016. Or installed the f2016 improperly
I moved the turnbuckles to the forward holes and all 4 now sit straight up and down. But hmmmm. After reading 12v's post....Looks like I have a craigslist problem....and dare I say it in a public forum, but 12v is right.
I bought what was presented to me as F2016's. Brought the truck, crawled under, they fit, I paid for them. Didn't even dawn on me they were the wrong ones when all the holes lined up. They attach to the spring perches. Now that I pull up the instructions for both--the only place not using stock photo's--I have apparently been sold F2012's. Well....****.
Everybody stay calm, this was just a test fit and a trip around the block.... ok, so I used the rear holes on both tie down brackets instead of the fronts. I'm innocent! I swear! IT WAS JUST A TEST FIT! I WANT A LAWYER! I know my rights!!
The fronts are the correct model# and cannot be mounted wrong. The rears are part of the hitch. I'll use the 'front' holes on the tie downs and post a new pic.