I've had my Fastguns for, oh, 10-ish years. A long time ago, someone apparently tried stealing them, but I have the Fastgun locks, and so all they succeeded in doing was busting the handle off of one of them. They must have tossed or kept the handle because it has been MIA since.
So, I'm on vacation this week. Since I'm only about a half hour from the Torklift factory and finally have some time on my hands, I thought I'd go down and see about buying a new handle for my busted Fastgun. Of course, I was fully expecting to have to chip in a few bucks for it, then take it home and weld it back on.
I went down to the factory and talked with Brandon. He proceeded to tell me my Fastguns were very old, and they don't make the handle for them any more. I can see it coming... I'm screwed, "uh boy, time to pony up for new ones." He goes in back and grabs a whole new set of Fastguns, in Arctic White to match my truck and camper. And yup, they're completely different. I go to grab my wallet, and he says "on the house". This is customer service??? I was expecting something a little more dramatic.
We go out to my truck and he proceeds to tell me he doesn't like the way my Superhitch looks, (which is just as old as my Fastguns) and comes out with all new revised braces, turnbuckles and brackets. Again, gratis.
This is what Torklift calls service?? Ridiculous..... What a waste of my time, make me drive all the way down there just to come home with a bunch of "warranty" free stuff--on purchases easily a dozen years ago.
And for those who don't get my sarcasm, yes, I'm joking when I say 'ridiculous'.
Thank you Torklift...
Airbags can unload the suspension. Stable Loads engage the suspension sooner. Stable loads first.
I wish I'd have installed StableLoads First, and I would never have spent the money on airbags.
Stableloads do a lot more for me than the airbags - AF811 on a 2009 Silverado Dually.
I have an EXTREMELY heavy camper, I run Stableloads. They will never pop or leak.
It wouldn't have been a problem if the one jack hadn't froze,(onto the ground) I'd call that's an operator fault.
Who said anything about froze to the ground??? It's in a large covered parking with on a concrete pad. I hit the button, it didn't move, it was 19 degrees out, it blew the fuse, ergo, I assumed some condensation/moisture in the mechanism had froze.
and to think, not that many years ago, NONE of them had power. :)
Ya, but they didn't weigh 6500lbs either......
So here's a visual of the problem---
Both Crappijack and Rieco put fuses INSIDE the controller.
So, since the controller is mounted in the (not)access panel at the front bulkhead, my only to choices to fix this are--
1--Relocate the controller to the rear access panel, which would involve running all new wiring to the jacks.
2--Put a jumper wire inside the controller, basically bypassing the fuse there, and add fuses to the wires at the motor on each corner.
If you can run the other three wouldn't it be jack specific? Is there a reset on the outside on the jack?
On Rieco's and CrappiJacks, each motor has a fuse on the controller itself, usually a 20 or 25amp. I have CrappiJacks.
To solve it...
My thought here is to move the fuse to the outside jumper wire where the wire exits the wall and goes into the motor, then put a wire jumper inside the controller where the fuses are currently. Doesn't matter where the fuse is in the motor circuit, so long as it's fused.
Of course, I won't know it's the fuse till I get the camper off the truck. Might be the relay on the board for that leg.
K, so, long story short, needed to move the truck n camper today. Camper is already on the truck, and I have the jacks down to take some of the load off the tires/springs.
It's cold out here, like most places right now. I go to pull the jacks up, one is froze and (I'm guessing) blows the fuse. I have to break it free and crank it up by hand.
I can't check the individual fuses in the controller for each jack because the jack controller is located in a storage area that is directly against the front wall of the bed.
So another words, I can run the other three jacks down by electric, but I have to manually jack the last one down to get the camper off the truck, unload it from the truck, all so I can just check a fuse.
Eagle Cap--- What were you thinking when you decided to mount the jack controller there???
For those lucky enough to pull the trigger on time - I would LOVE to see a detailed write up on these.
--Real world output checked by a VOM / ammeter
--Are you planning on changing controllers / going with an MPPT?
--Cloudy day output vs. direct sun (which is usually FAR less but still worth hearing about)
These will go back on sale someday, having all the REAL world info would help me decide how many to get when that day comes.
OMG, yes, that is backwards and that would explain the smoke when you grounded it out.
RVs use house-wiring standards rather than car - cars, black is ground, RV's and houses - black is hot. But wait, there's more... There are exceptions - a lot of times wires for solar come down as black and red, likewise, sometimes people (like me) add stereo equipment to their TCs and those wires might also be car-type black/red. General rule - black/red together - black is ground, black/white paired together, white is ground. **disclaimer - Take your TC to an rv tech before taking this as the gospel**.
I would be very surprised if nothing is actually fried.
Things to check to see if they're fried - fridge, electric jack controller, stereo, any 12v tv/dvd player if you have one.
My first guess - your battery is not grounded well. That would one of the few reasons your 12v converter can light it but a brand new battery won't. It's grounded enough to spool the fan, but the voltage drop is enough to not allow the igniter to fire.
As a quick troubleshooting test - Try running a regular car-type jumper cable from the ground of the battery to the metal casing of the furnace and see what happens. Basically, run a good ground to the furnace.
Also see if the fan speeds up when you do this.
I know this isn't exactly the cheapest route, but I put one of these on my TC. It is EXTREMELY nice to have, tons of times it's been handy---
RV Keyless Entry
Just do a google for best price, I got mine off Ebay.
That's an "old trucks tale"... Errr "Old Wives Tale". I had an older ford F150, and by older I mean 80's, not '01, before they were computer controlled.
Yes-- on older non-computer trucks you could overheat the tranny by towing in OD. I did... Didn't know any better back then, and was hauling a UHaul trailer over the mountain passes and I had tranny overtemp problems. The factory tranny cooler was not big enough, and there was no computer telling it that "it should" shift down--and of course the driver didn't either.
Now a days, the computer decides torque needed vs. throttle position much more efficiently, and the tranny coolers are larger.
Will you only ever be running the TV, DVD, Sat' tuner, & computer??
If so then you can use a fairly small (~300W) inverter.
It depends on what you plan on running. Like others have mentioned, I'm also running a Prosine, a 2.0 2kw meant to go inline with the TC's shore power pigtail and power the entire TC. I can even light the roof air with it (not that I would do it for long).
I can run coffee maker, dish, tv, microwave... all at once. But I also have a couple more batteries.
Just keep in mind, anything you run @110v will draw roughly 10x the amperage @12v, so your 300w inverter can draw 30amps @12v. That can kill two deep cycle batteries pretty quick.
NOTHING is as quiet as a Honda, period...... If you're one of those people who has to have the generator running **ALL** **THE** **TIME**, you better invest in the Honda.
I go out of my way NOT to run a genny, to the point I've sunk more than most into batteries, charging and inverter.
That being said,