I bought a new replacement tailgate cable for mine -- the part that you're unplugging that goes into the tailgate to the factory camera.
Then got the wiring diagram and got the pin-out of each pin. Pretty straight forward - pos/gnd, video pos/gnd, and a continuity trigger (the wire that tells you that irritating "the camera is disconnected, call your dealer" on the monitor).
Now, for my year of cable, that Ford PN is DC3Z-14A412-A. May or may not be the same for yours, do a little google'ing. It was $14.95. This plugs into where your factory camera just got unplugged from.
Then I simply connected it to a basic generic backup camera, $20.
This is where I found the most helpful info here on The Diesel Stop
Question - for those who ONLY have a satellite receiver in their RV on pay as you go-- what does it cost for the utmost basic service, and then switching it on and off as needed, for say, maybe one week a month at a time?
Reason I ask - I want to drop dish like a bad habit, but they're one of only 2 games in town for RV satellite TV, and DirectTV wants a fortune for their self-pointing HD setup.
I have a 722 receiver on Dish at home, another 211 receiver and dish at my beach house, and the 211+tailgater in my TC.
I've had Dish service since 2004. I hate them. Can't stand being treated like an idiot whenever I call in for ANYTHING...even to re-authorize my 211 in my TC. I am an Electrical Engineer in the communications field, dealing with beamwidths, azimuths, tilts, dB's and gains every frickin day, and these kids can't even read from the script in front of them half the time. And when they do read from the script, they don't even listen to the answer you gave them unless you repeat it yelling at the top of your lungs 14 times. -- and all the while I already know exactly what I need done, but they won't do it until they make you go through the whole script. If I hear Can you please unplug your receiver and plug it back in" one more time, they can come sweep up the parts left from their equipment off my driveway.
My phone number has been 'hot flagged', meaning, anytime I call, I get a US, real on-shore person every time. Threaten to cancel the next time you get an oversees call rep and they will hot-flag your number.
But even at that, I can't stand calling them. I have Comcast internet at home, I want to bundle tv and internet, and just drop my dish at the beach all together. There is a real, brick and mortar customer service center for Comcast not 5 minutes from my house where I can look someone in the eye, and I've never had any problems going there with the few internet problems I've had.
I now step off my soap box...
:M :M :M :M :M
We have had Dish for several years now, Pay as you go and we shut it off and turn it on when ever we move on. We travel host parks and go home in the summer . Just callem and say what zip code you are and they set you up. BUT if it is only for a short term you are looking at the deal is not worth it. stick to dvds.
We are usually gone 5-7 months.
My 2 cents
I have never had to call them and tell them which zip code I'm in. Setting up for the first time in a new location the receiver asks which state you are in.
That's only needed for your locals if you drive outside the spotbeam for your home area. If you're home is in Boise, and you come see me in Tacoma, you'll have no local channels at all. You call them with a new zip, you then get to see Seattle locals, but you've drove too far to receive Boise local channels.
For me, it doesn't take much. I go from Tacoma to Portland, I've lost my Seattle locals.
I've done this, in both my previous two AF's and my current EC. Both of my previous AF's, an 1140, then an 1150, had built in gennies and I added an inverter. My Eagle Cap has no built-in genny, and I don't miss it in the least.
First one, 1140 - it was an older one, I went the inexpensive route and got a 2KW modified sinewave from Harbor Freight. For the price, they're decent inverters, you can get them on sale with coopin for $129. I added a remote on/off switch. I found I seldom ever used the genny after that. I also went the super-easy way on hookup - just plugged tha camper pigtail right into the 15a outlet on the inverter. You must run off the battery charger, elx hot water, and hard-switch the fridge from auto to propane.
Drawback - modified sinewave made the microwave work at about 60% power, it took longer to cook things. Also, electric blanket controllers will not work with MSW inverters.
Next one, 1150 - same, came with genny. This time, went with a Prosine 2.0 with built in 3-stage 100a charger. Added a transfer switch, relocated control panel inside for full-remote operation. Worked great. I bought that TC brand new, sold it a year later, had 4 hours on the genny, and that was just to run the roof air. Added 2 more batteries for a total of 4. Ran the microwave perfectly, and on those cold nights, running the elx blanket saved power(and propane) vs. running the furnace warmer - I set the furnace lower, hence, the batteries lasted slightly longer.
Now-- Eagle cap 1160-- No genny. I now have the mother of all inverters - Magnum Hybrid 3000. It can run the roof air. But I also have enough batteries to run a small city. I keep a Honda 2000 handy if i need it. Usually when I dry camp, I have the Shotwagon with me that has 600w solar on it tied to the TC batteries.
This inverter is called a hybrid because it will assist any genny when the load approaches overloading the genny. You can literally run the roof air off a Honda 1000. I've done it. It assists the start surge and running load if necessary. This thing is awesome. 125a 3 stage charger. I find that the 600w of solar can keep up with the roof air draw up to about 90 degrees outside, past that, the compressor runs more than the solar can make up for.
Get up under there with a squirt bottle full of very soapy water, squirt everything down liberally to find where the leak is actually coming from and go from there.
Could be a fitting, could be the air fill chuck, cracked bag... need to be certain of where it is leaking before any good advice can be given.
It is not unusual for fuse boxes to need replacement. The contacts can become resistive which can then lead to heat and ultimately a slow disintegration of the box.
I personally have repaired two bad fuse boxes for friends. In both cases, a bad solder joint on the fuse connector mounted on the PC board was the culprit. It would cause enough heat to melt the fuse.
It wasn't an issue with over-current which would then pop the fuse, it was an issue of poor workmanship, leading to a bad connection, which then of course meant circuit failure with the fuse still good.
If I actually owned one of those beautiful new Fords, I'd go with Torklift frame-mounted tiedowns.
Absolutely go with Torklift - they attach to the steel frame of the truck, not the body, and there is no drilling required. Win - win. Completely solves your problem.
How often is it that one does business with a large company and ends up being less than satisfied? Possibly too often!
Well, NOT so with my latest transaction with Torklift. Kerstin Stokes went above and beyond answering my questions and giving professional, educated advice to me about the Torklift Camper Packer stands for storing my Palomino TC.
Kerstin is relatively new at Torklift, but has picked up on the products quickly. She is always a pleasure to work with and you can tell she enjoys working there.
So, came back from a 10-day trip last week, just been busy with work and home stuff to write this up, but thought I would share this.
I usually don't bother taking the TC o the truck on short trips, but on longer trips I do. In this case, 10 days on the Or-E-Gun coast, took it off.
I got these Torklift Wobblestoppers last year, but can't say enough about these things if you take your TC off. Before these things, I would bring short collapsible saw-horses to help stabilize when off-truck camping. These things make the TC rock-solid--even on my big heavy TC.
This is one of those "I wish I could go" type of things, but wow, they're about as far from me as you can get via dry land.
I heard every major TC vendor will be there, I got an email saying Torklift is going all the way from here in PNW to there giving away freebees and coopins (Coopins - A subtle nod to Ron White). Love to get my hands on some of those coopins!
I'd love to see a trip report from someone who's going. It is being touted as the 'The Worlds Largest RV Show"...Sept. 14-18
So... I'm coming back from a 10 day trip to the Oregon coast today, driving along happily...cruise set.. Freebird goin on the ole' Victrola.... And all my indicators go dark. The gauges are all still working, but they're all dark. NAV is black... that center digital display between the tach and speedo is black. Grrr...
So I turn the headlights off... then back on... nothing.
Play with the dimmer, all the way up and the cab light came on, and then I could just barely see some back light. Grrr.... What's going on???
So I continue down the road. Pull into a gas station to fuel up. I grab my trusty Seahawks hat from the dash....BOOM, all the lights come on.
My baseball cap had covered up the day/night sensor.
And when you all quit laughing, you can move onto the next post......
How much fun is involved in replacing the large rubber seal/flap that seals your slide when it's open?
I just noticed today at the top of one of those it's beginning to tear. It has about 2" at the top that have started to come apart.
Would one of you explain to ignorant me the significance of a positive ground?
Glad to know I am not the only one!
Positive ground harkins back to the earliest days of of the telegraph and telephone systems, later adopted by the automobile through the 50's or so depending on the make. Basically, the positive post of the battery is connected to the chassis rather than the negative.
It is still used today in my industry. Every cell phone tower you use to talk through is positive ground, and typically runs off -24 or -48vdc. They do that because...well, 'that's how we've always done it'.
What does this mean for this controller? Can you use that controller? Yes. But... You have to make sure you do not mount it or the panels directly to any metal framing on your TC. the casings would all be 'hot' in respect to the chassis.
Would I do it? Meh... Probably not, simply because if you forget one day, or sell the rig, it could be a problem later.
One thing to note, the controller is positive ground. Although for $153 is a good price for just the panel itself.
I saw that, but I read that as the free upgrade is positive ground. The one included is not ---
"Upgrade PWM 30A Charge Controller to PWM 30A LCD Charge Controller for free. This is a Positive Ground Charge Controller. "
I suppose a call or email to the seller would be in order.
I'm poking around the interweb this evening looking to add more power to my solar, but ended up finding this...
This is factory direct kit from Renogy, a pretty decent name brand in the solar world on Ebay. Although it does come with a PWM controller and not an MPPT, it's still a great buy. the controller can handle up to 30amps, so 3 panels if you needed to upgrade.
100 watt panel, controller, and free shipping, $153.
100w Solar kit on Ebay
**advertising disclaimer, I am not affiliated with Renogy or Ebay.... Just thought it was a good deal worth passing on.
Be sure to get MELLO MIKE's blessings... He runs with lots of Truck Campers with long extensions...
I always thought this one was neat from his blog page showing a long extended hitch with chains to make it stable..
That is a Superhitch. Use you're browser's zoom function and you can clearly see that is a SuperTruss, and the Superhitch name on the right.
Any time this question comes up, I post this. PLEASE read this and understand - if you put an extension on a hitch NOT SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED for one, you run a very high risk of failure.
This is my true story----
I *think* I'm safe to say I haul one of the biggest/heaviest combo's on the TC forum. 2-slide Eagle Cap@~6800lbs, plus a 26' Wells Cargo 10k trailer. In my years, I've spent a lot of time and money to get my rig where it's at.
My white knuckle experience came doing exactly what you're referring to. Years ago, I had an F250, hauling an average TC at the time, and a 20' ski boat ski boat @about 4500lbs. I had a 2 foot extension on a Reese Class V hitch. Didn't think I was doing anything wrong at the time.
Went in to Torklift one day in Kent to buy some rear tie downs. They inspected my truck, said sure, and they'd even install them for free.
20 minutes later, they came and grabbed me and said they refused to work on my truck.
The hitch extension had made the hitch fail. There was a large crack running down the passenger's side mount bolts to the frame.
I turned white... One good hard bump and I could've had the hitch fall right out from under the truck. I immediately had them put on a SuperHitch and haven't looked back since.
The moral of my TRUE story - DO NOT guess, estimate, or figure you can safely run a hitch extension. Only a Superhitch is engineered and DOT approved to run a hitch extension.
....I now step off my soap box.
Have you considered taking the tank out and replacing the factory tank with a Titan tank? I know for my truck they make a 68gallon tank.
Amazon has the one that fits mine for $1200 w/free shpg. Would free up your bed space for more than just a TC too... I know that 68 gallons of fuel will go farther than my bladder or butt will go.