Up here in the PNW, the Jeep trails are more slippery, muddy and wet. Body damage from trees and rocks is the thing here, not so much shear rock climbing. I mean, there is rock climbing, but nothing like that.
Sliding down a mud-covered hill like yer on a sled doin' the Olympic Luge event, and whacking a tree is our thing. Rollovers are a lot less frequent here.
I mocked up one light by zip tieing it to the ceiling rafters.
Hey, couple questions--
What are those lights? 12v or 110v? how much?
Your observations on the ECM/PCM fuel curve are odd, mainly because that generation of diesel does not have any method of monitoring airflow. No mass airflow sensor means no fuel calibration based on airflow changes. The engine honestly doesn't "know" you changed anything.
Not entirely true.
7.3L's don't have a MAF sensor, but do have a MAP sensor, plumbed directly after the boost outlet into the intake manifold, the actual sensor is mounted near the heater fan, and it specifically measures boost the turbo is producing and so as to add the correct amount of fuel.
In a nutshell - A MAP sensor measures pressure in the manifold, and the MAF sensor measures flow.
A very common mod that needs to be done after someone chips a 7.3L is to put a low-pressure regulator on that very line going to the MAP sensor to limit what it sees to 20-21lbs boost, at 22lbs, it kicks the "Check Engine Light" with an overboost code.
I never did it because I prefer to just deal with the code vs run the mix lean by fooling the sensor. Mine is programmed not to do the dreaded "de-fuel on boost fault" which is also very common.
Boaty or anyone - just wondering about the cable from the Xantrex to the control panel. Did you use an existing one, a straight phone cable or did you need to buy one from Xantrex? I'm replacing my Magnum inverter with a Xantrex and they want $77 for the cable. I'd hate to pay that for a phone line, or go through the hassle of pulling a new cable if the existing one will work,
I will look around - I might have a spare cable. If so, I will look at then ends of it and see how it's wired.
It's just a 4-conductor RJ-11 male to male phone cable for the prosine 2.0. It's a M to F on a Prosine 1800 though...
And make sure there's 4 actual pins in the plug, not 2.
is that Beverley dunes or south on the other side...
Been to Bev, heard about the steeper south side..
Its just the ORV park on the north side - I didn't know you could get to the south side, gonna have to check that out next time we go.
The Prosine is a great unit, I miss mine. It would run my air on 6 batteries, for a while, but then the batteries and cables would start to heat up.
I've got REALLY big, but also very short, cables going to the inverter. 0/2 going to the inverter on about an 18inch run.
Worth noting - the roof air averaged 115amps draw, but the OEM microwave pulls about 155.
I've got 2 posts running about my trip this last week, this is the roof air on solar. Pure co-inky dink there's another post about solar roof air, I ran mine for the first time on solar this weekend.
A little background - New trailer - I replaced my old trailer with a shiny new 2015 26' 10k Wells Cargo and put 550 watts of solar on it and three 145aH batteries. That is then connected to the six 145aH batteries I have in the camper, which then go through a Xantrex Prosine 2.0 2kw/4kw inverter.
So anyway, where I went last week, it was REALLY muggy out there Friday, but only in the high 70s/low 80s, so I figured I'd stretch the inverter and solar's legs.
Fired it up, the inverter control panel said it was drawing ~115 amps@12v. Within about 10 minutes, temp was down and it went into the normal on/off duty cycle. It would run about 5 minutes, shut down for 10-15. The solar managed to almost completely keep the batteries up...not quite, but pretty good.
It was clear and sunny, solar on the trailer was kicking out 35-ish amps back to the camper, and it was able to run the roof air all day with only a little overall voltage drop.
Didn't need to run it, but it was nice to know I could.
Finally got the projects on the new trailer done, as well as a couple truck upgrades, so I went out for a 4-day boondock run. Went to a little place to go play in the sand called Beverly ORV Park, just south of I-90 near Vantage. Ran 3 passes, Tiger Mtn, Snoqualmie Pass, and our notorious "Vantage Hill" (otherwise known as radiator hill).
Truck changes done this last couple weeks-- Banks Quick Turbo kit that involves new exhaust-side housing, compressor side wheel, and new Big Head waste gate.
New trailer - replaced a 20' 7k lb Interstate enclosed trailer with a shiny new 2015 26' 10k Wells Cargo. Put a 19' motorized awning and 550 watts of solar on it, equipped it with three 145aH batteries, beverage fridge and freestanding icemaker.
So - new turbo and cold air intake - clearly, the PCM/ECU had to learn a new airflow/fuel curve. Initially, I thought, man, what a waste of money, less boost, higher egts. But after about 30 minutes it started to come alive. I have more power, and better MPG. Pulling all 3 passes, I gained on average 5mph, and at the end of this trip pulling all these passes I used to average 7.5mpg, fill up/calculator method had me now @ 8.7mpg -- and the trailer is 1,500lbs heavier.
Trailer is 1,500lbs heavier
Gained 5mph pulling hills
Gained 1.2mpg, from 7.5 to 8.7
Cruising flat 60mph - boost came down from 8lbs to 5lbs, pyro from 850 to 750.
Worth noting - my mpg is not that bad when running on the flats, it's the 3 passes that kill it whenever I head east.
The new trailer hauled like a dream... I have the 42" Torklift truss, had to make several sharp turns to get in and out of the fuel stops and campsite, no issues.
Some pics of the place---
It rained for 3 days straight before I got there, hence the muggy, and the big puddle under my truck (and NO, that's not me pullin' the tank handles)
I had an older Arctic Fox 1140 that had the exact same problem. That particular one was an '04. Arctic Fox in their infinite wisdom back then anchored that tie down to nothing but a sheet of plywood. There was nothing else in that corner, no framing, no solid piece of wood, nothing. IMHO it should be a factory recall, because it could fail going around a corner, and **whomp**, there goes your camper.
My work around was to go from the weakest point on the camper to the strongest - I put eye-bolts on the camper jack brackets and used that as the tie-down mounting point.
Then I made a much more permanent fix and got an Eagle Cap. ;-)
Getting there.... Last weekend I wouldn't have been able to roll it down the road, had everything roughed in, but not done. This weekend, getting closer. Can't work on it tomorrow of course because of mom's day, but at least if I have to I can take it out now.
Still a lot of little things to do...clean up wiring, mount the inverter and solar control panels, run permanent 12v to the awning, tie the inverter into the 110v panel, add a stereo, swap out the outside 500w halogens for LEDs, and a bunch of other little stuff. Take it easy on my work so far, it's not done...
Awning's done except for running a permanent 12v line and in/out switch... A lot of drilling into the side of my trailer, pucker factor 10....
Had a custom box made for 3 of my 145ah AGM batteries, and a riser for the inverter and solar controller. Heavy, heavy box even for aluminum, it's tig-welded 3/16ths diamond plate, then cut to fit the trailer side vent. Lagged into 2 studs and the floor. I have a much smaller, matching diamond plate box I had made for the control panels--not mounted yet. The connector on the end is for a variety of things, jump starting dead quads, or last trip out, the solar put out so much charge I ran jumper cables over to my buddy's TT and kept him charged on a 5-day dry camp.
Solar's done - it's a little harder than it looks since you can't really get up on these trailer roofs. RVs, no problem.
And of course, all the solar and inverter has a purpose.. to keep my beverage fridge and icemaker going....
I lived about 4 miles from Lentz's RV when they were still on the Mountain Hwy, so I checked with them. They got me in later that week and only charged $150 for the install.
OMG, that literally would have been my back yard! I'm about 4 miles from where they were on Mtn Hwy.
The power awning was easy to install, problem is, took me all day. I had an issue with taking a drill bit to my shiny new trailer, so talk about "measure twice, cut once"... Ya, I was like, "measure 2,300 times, drill once".
I got the awning and solar roughed in last weekend, this weekend I'm gonna finish it up... pics to follow.