I've had numerous battery problems in my Northstar Laredo. 3 batteries in less than 5 years. Now the charger (converter) doesn't seem to be working. If I never boondock, always staying someplace with electricity, is it necessary to have a battery? The batteries are inside, so have to use the high priced lifeline type battery. Thanks for any help.
So, you don't have listed what kind of TC you have. But suffice to say, you have to have a 12v converter. All the lights, fridge, water pump and furnace run directly from 12v. Virtually nothing runs EXCLUSIVELY off 110v except the AC. Even the fridge set to 110v mode needs 12v to run the brain.
If you have electric jacks, you need at least one battery. If you try to run the jacks down, all 4 at once will burn out the converter. Most jacks draw between 20-30 amps each, and the average TC converter is around 45-ish amps. You could get away with one jack at a time, but what a PITA.
You need to fill out your rig's specs on your user file so we can see what kind of rig we are talking about.
Ditto... I'm guessing your truck doesn't have a rear sway bar? If you really want to see an improvement on top of what you've done, get a Road Master Rear Anti-Sway bar. Expect around $500.
I did have a factory rear bar, and upgraded to that. Huge difference. I can't imagine what the difference would feel like if you had no rear sway bar at all and put one on.
Reason there won't be enough room is the area where the add on adjustable t-stat is installed would be where the 110V t-stat set would be if WH was combo gas/electric.
Exactly. My is gas-only. If you have 12v and 110v, there will be a complete second set of the thermostats for the 110v, right were I put my mod.
As with any thermostat, the Home Repo thermostat has to touch the tank itself with no other insulation or metal in the way. What you could do is somewhere on the inside of the TC, cut away some of the Styrofoam insulation off the top of the tank (or whereever you can get to) and put your Tstat mod there.
Just a thought....
If you wanted to do this without soldering I assume you could just connect to the blade terminal on the left. That would put the 180, 130 and variable all in series. It would also limit the hot side to 130 max which might be a good thing.
Sure, you could run it as a third Tstat in line, just means you can't go any higher than 130. In my case, I wanted hotter because the incoming cold water is so cold, it makes showers pretty short.
They make an OEM replacement of a fixed 140, you just unscrew the 180/130 tstats and put in a new set with 180/140. Runs about $26.
But I still wanted just a plain ole adjustable knob.
Wow, I've wanted an adjustable thermostat on the water heater for years! Do you have a part # for the Home Depot thermostat or is it pretty straightforward which one to get? How is the new thermostat held in place?
Looks like the thermostat is HD model# 15417 SKU# 258417
Sorry, I should have put a clicky in for the TStat.
Home Repo TStat
k, so you're going to think I'm a little nuts, but it fit SOOO close that all I did was run a couple screws against the top edge to compression-fit it.
Also - to make it more accurate, I'm going to run down to Radio Shack and get some heat-conductive goo to put on the back of it. It shuts off about 15 degrees hotter than set right now.
First-- *** disclaimer ***
I am an electrical engineer. If you do not have COMPLETE confidence in your wiring ability, DO NOT DO THIS as you can cause serious damage to you, your TC, your insurance rates, and your liquor stash.
Also---if you have gas AND 110v heater elements, this won't work. You won't have room.
So, I got tired of my hot water not being adjustable for a variety of reasons. I had an old RealLite TC years ago with an old school mechanical water heater, and it had a real, adjustable thermostat.
This is a Suburban water heater, similar to what a lot of us have.
When you take off the thermostat cover, you see two thermostats connected together with a jumper wire. One is for your working temp of 130 degrees which is of course self-resetting, the other a manual-reset 180 degree safety in case the 130 degree fails.
Go to Home Depot and get thier LOWER SIDE home water heater thermostat. It fits like a glove beside the 2 existing thermostats.
**Note -- the fact that it is for 220v vs. 12v is irrelevant, it is a SPST switch, nothing more. It is more than sufficient to send the "time to light burner" signal to the computer/circuit board. This circuit carries no actual load, it is just an on/off sensor for the computer.
Pull the incoming wire off the 130 degree thermostat, wire it to the new one. Likewise, make a jumper wire to go to the other side of the 130 degree tstat. Slightly grind the tab on the other side of the 130tstat then solder (the grinding gives the solder something to stick to)
Solder on the jumper wire. Attaching it here retains the 180 degree safety in-line with the new tstat. DO NOT disconnect both red wires and run to the new thermostat. By doing so you bypass the safety.
Not was I was expecting when I opened it up. Thanks for the chuckle.
"Thats funny right dare, I don't care who ya are.."
I thought about this before i read it, and was thinking since we're in Seattle, alternators hooked to our downspouts...
Has anyone camped in the pouring rain on purpose? ?? maybe I'm a sick puppy, but I think sequestered in a TT with my favorite girl and maybe an adult beverage or two in the rain sounds good to me. Perhaps a ball game on the tv. Maybe some people never grow up...lol. Maybe a good way to check for leaks......
I think you've noticed the trend in replies from those of us near Seattle.... When ISN'T it raining?
Winter - cold rain
Summer - rain is warmer
So, I've been on here now for over 10 years. I've mostly had truck campers, but I did have for several years a Cyclone 4012, bought brand new. Eventually sold it because honestly, it was just too big. Couldn't take it anywhere and actually fit. Going down the road I was 59 1/2 feet long.
I picked up a new Can Am Maverick, and I'm looking at these Class A toyhauler motorhomes. Right now I have an enclosed trailer that I pull behind my truck/camper. The Can Am is JUST over 10 feet - 10 foot 6.
I'm fine with gas, or a good deal on a diesel. Any suggestions? What should I watch out for?
We have the same basic thing in WA called the Good-2-Go pass. Mine is right under the mirror and works fine with TC.
I'm an electrical engineer, in the communications field. Remember, these are RF Transponders, not a line-of-sight infrared device. Granted, a camper bunk is a sizable thing, but it is not metal, like a crane boom and support rigging. Your bunk does very little to block actual RF. RF signal from the triggering system for the most part will blast right through it. Even a full 100% aluminum framed camper doesn't block signal much because the ribs are spaced so far apart.
Now, if you had an old-school aluminum skinned camper, that'd be a completely different story.
Here in WA, we are also given "blockers" to prevent them from working when we're legitimately carpooling. Those are 100% metal and prevent the transponder ID from echoing back properly.