Most everything I've read about covers are negative. Don't last long, induces moisture, etc.
I'll add to that. I had an Aqua-Shed. It did exactly as the name implied -- it was a shed for water. I would go out when it was raining, and more water was coming down my downspouts on the camper than over and off the cover.
I called Aquashed and complained. I figured they forgot to spray it with Rainx or something. They said "Oh, it's supposed to breath".... I replied "like a fish?". They hung up on me. It was not a good call.
I'm near Seattle, and that was the biggest waste of money I ever spent on my TC.
If you're in Arizona and want to keep the sun off, get an Aquashed.
call me old fashioned, but i still prefer springs over air bags to handle the weight. go to your spring shop and have them inspected. if they are reputable, they won't try to sell you something you don't need. good luck.
I'm not a fan of bags. The number of times you'll hear people say thier bags leak or popped will outweigh those who say thier springs failed. My uncle has bags on his Dodge. Had to air them back up every day during a 2-day each way road trip.
That's not a power strip, that's the kill-a-watt meter measuring load.
So Boaty, what I am taking away from this is that a) a 2000 and a 1000 can be paralleled together to make 3000 watts, and b) I don't need to pay $200 for a special parallel cord, I can just use a suicide cord to connects the gens together via their outlets. Caution here is be sure the polarity is correct on the cord so (+) to (+) and (-) to (-).
Am I missing anything?
Nope, you worded that perfectly. And I love the term "suicide cord" btw... :B
I didn't check the TOTAL max output of both together, but I'd assume it's close to the max. Roof Air, converter/charger, tv, dish and microwave all running at once should be pretty close.
I load up this Sunday for my first trip with my recently installed Roadmaster, can't wait. I have been driving my truck around corners (empty) extra hard and I have ZERO body roll, crazy.
I'm pretty sure this will be the best $300 I have spent in a while.
Where'd you find them for $300?
***Disclaimer-- As with my previous posts pertaining to things electrical, I'm an Electrical Engineer, DO NO try this at home. You will burn down your camper, kill your neighbor's dog, and smoke two very expensive generators if you do this wrong***
Since I just picked up a Honda EU2000i-Companion gen yesterday, and I already have a EU1000i. I thought I'd tackle two "Urban Legends".
1-- You can't hook dis-similar Honda's together
2-- You MUST use Honda's VERY expensive parallel cord to run two gen's together.
First -- research. I did a LOT of reading out there. There are tons of posts saying "Oh no, I HEARD you can't do that". I finally found credible posts that not only said, but showed you could.
Second -- Schematics. I found the schematics for each generator after a short Google search. Note the circle around the wiring for the outlets vs. the "Parallel Ports" - on both generators they are tied directly to the outlet.
WORSE YET-- The parallel ports on the 2000 BYPASS the breaker! Why did they do that???
So I made a simple 15a double-male cord using some heavy duty 12ga cord. Honda uses the "Parallel Kit" plugs for safety-- I just made a completely exposed double male cord. If you're drunk enough to grab hold of it while it's plugged into a running generator, you get bit. Honda's Parallel Kit - you can't get bit.
***There is no special signalling, sync'ing, or voodoo pixie dust on the parallel ports***. The inverters are auto-sensing for the 60hz sync at start up regardless whether you plug into the 110v plug or the parallel ports.
Note the 2000 parallel ports bypass the breaker--
My simple cord---
So, first, I of course VERY cautiously lit both off. No problem. I then plugged in my heat-gun. I used that first because it's a purely resistive load, and let's face it, very cheap if I smoked it.
Using a Kill-O-Watt meter, I checked it plugged into the wall first--
Plugged it into the 1000's outlet, both gen's connected and running--
1550 watts. (a slight voltage difference between wall power and gen power). Both generators raised up off eco-idle and came up.
Removed the Kill-O-Watt meter from the heat gun, and plugged it into the Jumper Cable I made to see how much wattage the 2000 was putting out.
Fired up both Gen's, hit the heat gun again. The load was almost perfectly spread--The 2000 was sending 1040 watts through the circuit, meaning just over 50% of it's capacity. That also means by simple subtraction, the 1000 was putting 510 watts--also arguably close to 50% of it's rating.
Time to try it on the TC.
Left everything on--Converter, tv, Sat dish, etc. Hit the roof air, lit no problem, no struggle. Lit quick, both gen's revv'd up, then both came back down to just above the low-rpm eco speed.
The real test - hit the microwave with the roof air and everything else going. They both sped up, complained a lot, but never went into overload.
So why do all this, (besides to show we can) --
I can use the 1000 for charging batteries, leave the 2000 at home. It uses half the gas the 2000 does.
The 2000 - good for running everything, or just the roof air alone in ideal conditions (low altitude, no other power drain). Leave the 1000 at home.
Both gens - it's hot out, I'm camping in the mountains, and need the roof air.
But it's also nice to know I don't have to drag around a big, heavy $2200 EU3000i if I don't need it on any given trip. I can take one VERY small one, one slightly bigger one, or both.
***And the net cost of a 2000 + 1000 is several hundred less than a 3000.***
Worth noting--I also have a 2KW inverter w/6 batteries, so these gen's are not going to see a lot of use.
How do you turn off the converter? I have looked and not seen an obvious fuse or switch.Assuming TCs are like the rest of the RV world, it's a breaker, and sometimes it's connected in with another circuit.
You just have to switch them off until you find it. Mine was that way, so the easiest thing for me to do was find the two 120v power wires and install a switch on one of them.
Ditto - I also run an Inverter on the whole TC, so instead of always having to open the breaker panel and kill the converter breaker, I put in a SPST switch to just shut it off, right next to the Inverter remote switch.
Yes thats pushing it.
Yea, and worth noting, I did have everything turned off/unplugged, even the converter.
Be interesting to see then on my next outing if it can fire it. I'll be heading up into the mountains, but not very high, ~3000ft level.
I just picked up off Craigslist a used Honda 2000-Companion model. I know this topic has come up many times before, but I honestly was shocked (no pun intended) that a single EU2000I would light my 13.5k roof air.
My previous TC, a 2012 AF came with an 11,000, and my last Honda 2000 barely even grunted starting it, no problem. I just thought a 13,5 wouldn't go.
My roof air is not the stock one, when I got my TC the previous owner ordered it without, so I had the local EC stealer put in a 13,500 Coleman.
I installed mine in 2010. Took about an hour of crawling around under the truck. Super easy but you definitely need both hands. It makes a world of difference. :)
X2. Two hands, barely a 6-pack job.
I got the front a couple months after I put in the rear, it also helped a lot.
No, I wasn't surprised at all. Here are the numbers I used prior to purchasing based on research I did here after people actually weighed their rigs. There has been a lot of discussion about Arctic Fox weights, so there was a lot of it. I figure it is +- about 100 lbs. Accessories like A/C and solar panels weigh a lot, and it adds up. This assumes you have A/C and other common options like the Fox landing, and these are wet weights with full water, propane, and 2 batteries. This matched up very well with my experience with my AF 990:
I'll vouch for the 996 weight figure, pretty close to ours.
Ditto on the 1150. I had a 2012, mine was 5,280 reasonably loaded.
I'm only throwing this out there as a suggestion--
I know member status has to do with number of posts, not time on the forum. I see some people joining last year, and already put up enough posts to get to Senior status.
My suggestion/thought/proposal - can there be a new classification for us truly "Senior Members" that have not only contributed hundreds/thousands of posts over the years, but who have also been here for years? Not sure if you can, or even what you could call it.
Again, just throwin it out there.
I would not put and ARB in the front without also having one in the rear.
You know I love you Brad, that said, I disagree.
If you buy a single ARB locker for the front, just wire the switch to the air solenoid, and you have a front locker regardless if you have a limited slip, spool, Lockright, etc...
Several of my former Jeep buddies have a spool or Lockright in the rear, and an ARB in the front. And for a factory truck with a limited slip, the same thing can easily be done.
But I still think the OP should also get a winch....
I want to be able to go to some of the desert, forest spots that I went in the past with just my 1500 4x4 and wanted the extra pop of the locker if I needed it. I have no desire for a winch.
**Disclaimer - I'm going on a safety rant**
Sorry for the second post, but I also had to make a comment about what you said about a winch.
1ST RULE OF OFFROADING-- DO NOT GO ALONE
2ND RULE OF OFFROADING - If you go alone, make absolutely certain you have EVERY form of self-recovery you can get.
If you go somewhere that requires a locker to get there, you better have a buddy AND/OR a winch. DO NOT go somewhere that you need a locker to get into without a winch to get you out of.
My last 3 Jeeps had dual winches--Front and rear
If ARB says it will fit your application I'd trust them. ARB is a well trusted name in the offroad community.
ARB is the best locker you can get for a pavement pounder in the FRONT--if you need one. I Jeep'd for years, had 4 different Jeeps and a Zuk, and just recently got out of it (for now). I've had Detroits, Eaton, LockRight and OX Lockers.
Front lockers are usually very bad for on-road vehicles. You can't turn on pavement when locked. Try to, and you risk snapping your axle. ARB is completely open when it's off, completely locked when you need it.
Worst Passive/self engaging locker - Detroit. Never could trust when they would lock or unlock. I almost rolled my Jeep when it unexpectedly locked up send the rear end of my Jeep out from under me. Got stuck many times because they wouldn't lock up at slow/crawl speeds.
Best Passive - LockRight. They're backwards. They stay locked until they absolutely have to unlock, like turning a corner on pavement. For you, though, this is BAD for street rigs, great for off-road only rigs.
Eaton E-Locker - very bad at disengaging. You hit the switch to turn it off, it disengaged whenever it felt like it.
Ox Locker - Broke two of them.
ARB - NEVER broke one, 100% perfect operation free and locked. Hit the switch, they're locked. Hit it again, they're off. Never broke one. Did I mention I've never broke one?
With the exception of my Samurai with LockRight lockers, every rig I had I ended up putting ARB's in. They're expensive, but you get what you pay for. When the day comes you NEED to hit that switch, they're worth every penny.
I used to also Jeep. Before I put a Dual-400C Viair kit on, I used this - a double head portable compressor.
Sold the Jeep, but still keep this in the truck. It's extremely fast, even faster if you leave the truck running for those extra couple volts from the alternator.
I will also say this - ARB makes great axle lockers, but I do not recommend thier compressors. Very slow, and prone to overheating when you try airing up four 35" mud tires.
Simple answer -
If you can fit a standard 4x8 sheet of plywood in your bed, then yes, a TC will fit. That's the footprint they all GENERALLY adhere to for bed space requirements.
Torklift tie downs attach to the frame and extend downward, and should easily clear your aftermarket bed.
So yes--on one condition. You have nothing protruding up in the bed from your 5'er hitch, aka, rails or pins.