It's paid for. You have no problem storing it. However..you mentioned sweeping the snow off it. If you're leaving it outside all bare naked, put some form of hard cover over it.
That being said...
I absolutely would not give it up. You're not going to be remodeling your house forever. You'll kick yourself when you're done for selling it.
I thought I was getting everything I needed when I bought our dually. It's a 2001 F350 4x4 dually. Lifted, Bilstein nitrogen racing shocks, air bags, front and rear anti-sway bars
I had the EXACT same truck as you, and went through every suspension upgrade you can do to an '01 F350 DRW.
Your first problem - it's lifted. Un-lift it.
My absolute-bar-none best-bang-for-the-buck to control sway when i got my Eagle Cap double slide 1160 was Roadmaster sway bars front and rear. HUGE improvement.
I also got Rancho 9000's. They took the "float" out of the ride, but that's what shocks are for, not sway control. That's the job of the sway bars.
I never did bags. I had F550 springs with StableLoads. That did wonders for leveling it out, but again, not much for sway - carrying the weight is the job of the springs, sway bars are for sway. Don't try and cross-solve this problem thinking shocks or springs will solve sway.
Get the parts to solve what they're designed to solve.
First, check the tire pressure in front and rear
x2 for sure - run your tire pressure up to the max recommended on the side wall, otherwise you'll get sidewall compression.
you got/ put on the wrong front tiedowns. You installed a f2012 for short bed instead of f2016. Or installed the f2016 improperly
I moved the turnbuckles to the forward holes and all 4 now sit straight up and down. But hmmmm. After reading 12v's post....Looks like I have a craigslist problem....and dare I say it in a public forum, but 12v is right.
I bought what was presented to me as F2016's. Brought the truck, crawled under, they fit, I paid for them. Didn't even dawn on me they were the wrong ones when all the holes lined up. They attach to the spring perches. Now that I pull up the instructions for both--the only place not using stock photo's--I have apparently been sold F2012's. Well....****.
Everybody stay calm, this was just a test fit and a trip around the block.... ok, so I used the rear holes on both tie down brackets instead of the fronts. I'm innocent! I swear! IT WAS JUST A TEST FIT! I WANT A LAWYER! I know my rights!!
The fronts are the correct model# and cannot be mounted wrong. The rears are part of the hitch. I'll use the 'front' holes on the tie downs and post a new pic.
So I posted the other day bout my new (to me) 2015 F-450. Update as of last night --
Got the Torklift Superhitch Magnum 30k hitch installed.
Torklift tie-downs on.
Upper Stableloads done.
Camper pigtail wiring done.
Have the Stableload lowers still left to put in.
I was shocked.
Just putting in the StableLoad uppers solved 80% of my sag, and the truck felt rock solid on a test drive. It's hard to tell in the pics, but here's what the tape measure said--
Measured from the fender to top of tire-- (keep in mind, this is the stock spring pack)
Empty, I was 1" high in the rear compared to front.
Loaded stock - 2.5" low in the rear.
StableLoad Uppers only - 3/4" low in the rear.
If you haven't put these on, they were super easy, about 20 minutes total for all 4, that includes one beer. And I don't ever have to worry about airbag leaks or pops!!
Lowers will take a little longer, that's tomorrow.
I had to lighten up the brightness/contrast so you can see the rear fenderwell a little better--
Before (day after I got the truck, no hitch or tie-downs)
After -- upper StableLoads only. Big thing to notice - the front to rear fender gap before vs. after.
What was the problem that got fixed ? Perhaps it would help the OP and others .
X2 I'd like to know since I'm looking at new pads here pretty quick.
I take it OEM pads aren't the best as many of us have been trained to think over the years?
Sorry, didn't even dawn on me to chime in about that. So, short version. Long version is really long, but anyway---
On my 2001 F350 DRW, Didn't know it, but rear axle seals were bad, leaking gear oil onto the back pads, so the fronts were doing the majority of the stopping. Replaced rear seals, new rear pads, truck now stops hard enough to throw you through the windshield.
All along, it felt like spongy brakes, like air was in the line or a soft line was expanding/stretching.
Problem is now 100% solved, hard pedal, hard stopping.
Well, first, I wouldn't tow with that Lance. I'd tow with a truck. Works better. :B
In all my years, I haven't seen a TC that drops down completely covering the hitch receiver of the truck. That being said, as others have said, I'd get a Torklift Superhitch and a SuperTruss long enough for your needs.
Link to Torklift SuperHitch
Link to Torklift SuperTruss extensions
I recently did a LOT of reading about brake pads due to an issue I was having with my '01 F350 DRW. The issue is now fixed, but this article was extremely helpful. Takes "Waddaya think of these pads" opinions and guess work out.
There is an actual friction coefficient rating that pads are rated at, regardless of organic, semi-metallic, ceramic or carbon-metallic.
Worth noting, I had chosen EBC G-rated pads @$200/set, but before purchasing, problem was found and fixed.
Brake pad coefficient ratings explained
Arctic Fox, slightly more dated looking interiors?
x2 on the dated look of AF...I've had 2 - an 1140 and an 1150 - they've made those exact same models, unchanged other than colors for nearly 20 years.
I now have an Eagle Cap 1160 double slide, love it. LOTS of room. I wasn't a big fan of the center kitchen island on the triple slides, I liked the open feel of the double slide.
... It's not like an F450 is going to collapse on a pile under that camper.
That was my thought too. :-)
Not the weight... :S
I've NEVER moved a TC just sitting in the bed---No tie downs yet. It's top heavier than Dolly Parton, I didn't want the slightest chance of rocking/tipping. Ya I know, I was being paranoid.
... Drove my car from my home to Spokane in 3 1/2 hours,
Holy cow, that's making good time from Tacoma to Spokane. Hammer down on the skinny pedal....
**cough cough**.... I'm actually farther than Tacoma... I just use Tacoma because no one's heard of Spanaway. And I can neither confirm nor deny I may have taken the occasional liberty with the posted speed limit on the way out there. ok, a REALLY big liberty with the posted speed limit... Amazing what you can do @7am on a Sunday morning and a good radar detector.
Great looking set up. Any chance you can post a full pic of your RV garage? Looks like it is ideal.
Geeze... I just dropped coin on a new truck and you wanna see pics of my garage... Tough crowd! :) I built it specifically for my TC and Shotwagon (Wells Cargo trailer).
I'm doing a LOT of house remodeling, so the pic of the house shows it as yet not painted - the shop just got done last month. House is getting new deck, new siding and new paint. Siding is done, I'm painting the house after the deck is done.
I'm familiar with that particular manufacturer and model of camper, my uncle had one.
The reason they have both a brake light and brake controller wire connected on your 7-pin---If you look closely underneath the rear end of the camper, you'll see a small hatch. That's where you deploy a parachute from.
I got me a new truck! 2015 Ford F-450 loaded with all the goodies. And maybe some of you that already have the 6.7L can chime in, I have some questions. But first, some pics---
Picked it up Sunday, this is on the way home. Drove my car from my home to Spokane in 3 1/2 hours, 4 1/2 on the way back...
This is after it's bath yesterday.
First test load - no tie downs or suspension mods yet, kept the jacks very close to the ground just in case. Sits a little low, as expected. Going with Stableloads again, they worked great on my last truck, so why change a good thing? Also transferring my Superhitch Magnum from my F350 and rear Talons, getting new Torklift Talons for the front (those won't transfer, they're different, hitch is same.)
Dana 110 rear end - 14,000lb axle rating compared to a Dana 80@10k. Comes stock with 19.5's, and already had Rancho 5000's. But I seem to have a problem finding Rancho 9000's for it.
My questions for those with the 6.7L--
How long should DEF last - how many miles between DEF fillup's?
Anyone done the DPF delete--results?
How does the Active Trailer Sway control work?
Anything I should know?
I removed the factory hitch last night to get ready to transfer my SuperHitch over. It had this large, weird roller bolted to the side of it, but no wires or hookups of any kind to make me think it's a sensor -- what is it?
That is WAY cool!
Looks like a double receiver hitch on the front too - don't think that I've seen that before now.
Again, wow! Nice choice.
fyi--That's just the plastic thingy that holds the license plate.
This and/or Labor day is the one time I actually intentionally go camping around thousands of other people -- Packwood Flea market. The entire town of Packwood WA turns into a big flea market, it's a hoot.
It's a small logging town on the western slopes of the Cascade Mountains, steep in logging history.
Anything and everything is there - all your county-fair type roach coaches show up, all of your typical swap meet vendors, every house has a garage sale, a big auction put on by a local auctioneer, lots of local logging antiques, and plenty of RV parking at various places throughout town.
I bring my Honda street bike mounted to my Superhitch just to toodle around town.(Formerly my Yamaha Zuma).
Lets face it, on Mem and Labor day weekend, you're not going to be able to 'get away from it all', so I go there to "join 'em since I can't beat 'em".
Thank you all for your input, great advice. This really stuck out for me though as a strong point to consider:
if the truck gets totaled at year three and it only has a value of 50K at that time and you paid 80K with a small down, then you still owe on the difference.
Hadn't thought of that....
So, JimH is excluded from this conversation... I know what he'd say... ;-)
I'm going through a bout of SOS - Shiny Object Syndrome. Most of you know I've been drooling over my keyboard about the new 2017 F-450's. But like most of us, I'm not Bill Gates. I've been quoted just over $80k out-the-door for one, and that's on the "X-Plan" that I qualify for. Then add Superhitch, Tie downs, possible suspension mods, etc.
Used '15s and '16s have been in the range of high 50s/low 60s used when they pop up with >10k miles. Worth noting, those have been very far and few between.
Here's the rub -
I ran across a very high-miles 2015 F-450. High being 60k. Nothing for a diesel, but high for a 1 year old truck and out of all Mfg's warranty. Price though was in the high 40's. It is off-lease from a transport leasing company, meaning, it did heavy hauling pretty much all of those 60k miles.
I called a local Ford dealer---assuming it passes a thorough inspection, they will sell me a Ford underwritten OEM extended warranty for 5 years/48k miles FROM NOW (not 4 years total, 4 from they day they write it) for $4k.
What would you do?
Get the high - miles truck + Ford factory extended warranty?
Get the high - miles truck no extended warranty? (which means chip, def delete, etc)
Hold out for another low-miles truck? (that is presumed to be under remaining factory warranty)
Buy new, with the caveat delivery is slated for late August?
New truck - after I sell mine, $800/mo payments.
Low miles used - pay cash but it would hurt.
High miles - cash, hurt, but not as much.