Just for a kinda-sorta similar comparison, I get about 10.5-11 with my EC1160 on an F350, running 4.10 gears. 10 or under with the trailer in my sig pic added on.
I have considered in the past getting a Gear Vendor over drive. But the cost vs. Return On Investment in fuel savings didn't pencil out well.
Depending on how heavy your rig is, I went 6" deep. I just poured a foundation for a large carport for my camper last year. My rig is a little heavier than most. I would really investigate the cost change of going 6". You never know what rig you'll have in 10 years.
Each post footing is one full cubic yard--
I put a Roadmaster on the back of my '99 F350 2WD and a Hellwig on the front because Roadmaster did not make a front bar.
I wonder if that's just a 2wd/4wd thing, because other than that, we have the same truck and I have a Roadmaster in the front.
I got a 2-step plastic step stool from Wallymart, then glued carpet on the steps. In my case, it can't stay there as the side slide-out pushes completely in the way of the bunk, the slide would crush it. So I just toss it up on the bunk.
Similar to this--
the roadmaster is bigger than the hellwig and bolts right in to the F350
Problem you'll have with your question, which is in essence, "which is better", is that there likely will not be someone who has had both on the same truck that can give you an objective opinion.
I have the same basic truck as you, with 9000xl shocks. Difference being I have springs instead of bags. Here's my observations--
* Installed shocks first-- Loaded, I had to set rear to 10, front to 4 for stability and help with sway control.
* Went a couple months, then installed rear Roadmaster. Immediately noticed I could turn the shocks down to 5, ride was smoother and sway was significantly improved.
* ~3 months later, installed front Roadmaster. Yet another very noticeable step in sway control, on par with swapping out rear factory bar with Roadmaster.
* ~1 month later installed Torklift StableLoads. Empty ride quality suffered, sway control improved yet again, albeit slightly - not as much as adding the actual sway bars.
With all the mods complete, the truck handles my heavy double-slide TC excellent.
**Compared to bone stock, I would say the truck now handles loaded virtually the same as it did when it was bone-stock and empty.
Your friend should be looking at a $5,000 travel trailer.
Thanx for all the suggestions so far! Unfortunately, a TT is not an option. He tows a small trailer with quads or small single-axle boat trailer, hence the need for the TC.
As the OP - I was hoping also for suggestions of specific names/models to do searches on, whether they are in business or out of business. The one I recently saw was a SummerWind, they went under in '04.
I know he's looking for a needle in a haystack with this price range, but we're also in no big rush either.
A friend of mine came to me looking for advice on used TC's with a slide. He's looking for something around a 9-foot, but on an admittedly tight budget for finding one with a slide, around $5k-ish. Dry bath would be nice, but he understands at that size it may also have to be a wet bath.
Craigslist has next to no search filters--you type in "Camper" and you get everything, class-a's, toyhaulers, etc.
So -- in/around a $5k budget, what older brands can be had? I know that price range puts him outside of Lance and AF, but are there some lesser-known brands from oh, say 10-ish years ago I could do searches on? Just saw a SummerWind 8.5' with slide and wet bath on CL for $4k, but it was sold when we called on it.
So, I'm in the initial thoughts/planning stages for doing the Al-Can next year. I get 5 weeks vaca per year, and this year, I'm going to have 2 weeks carry over, so next year I'll have 7 weeks on the books.
I'm thinking of budgeting a month to do the Al-Can. So first, is that enough from Seattle?
Some other questions--
My truck is in great shape, but what do you plan for besides flats?
Besides the normal road-trip stuff like extra fluids, belts, air compressor, etc...
Where would I want to stop for sight seeing?
Where to stay for overnighters?
Time of year next year to go/not go? BTW, I hate mosquitoes(who doesn't)...
I apologize if this has been posted before, I just saw this. It's not 'shopped (We have to resize pics for the forum, I have the higher-res original and looked it over pretty close). You can see obviously the frame is bent, rear bumper of camper damaged from hitting trailer tongue.
Anyone seen this before and have the back-story on it? All I have is the pic, no details. Since I haul a very heavy camper with a trailer, I'm quite concerned.
I also can't tell if this is a F350 or 450.
You will be taxing the 600AH plus battery capacity
840AH actually... 6x140.
Might be some heat build-up in the small enclosed compartments I see there...
Should have mentioned that, sorry. Already thought of that. The inverter is fan-cooled in the rear, and I knocked two holes in the rear of that compartment, one directly behind the fan for exhaust and another for intake, that vent directly into the camper basement. Side bonus - free heated basement.
First, hats off to Eagle Cap, they make working on this TC so easy. Everything's so accessible and easy to get to.
So the Prosine2.0 is an all-in-one Inverter/Charger/transfer switch. Just like when you fire up your built-in TC generator, a transfer switch kick, so does this.
Installing involves undoing the 30a shore power pigtail from the TC and connecting it directly the inverter. Then you run a 10/2 jumper from the inverter back to where the shore power cord was connected to the TC. Eagle Cap made this very easy because there is a junction box inside the rear main storage where you can do all this wiring.
Here is the inverter installed next to 2 of the 6 140Ah batteries(I had to remove the access cover to get all this back in there)--
Control panel inside--
This thing is awesome -
first, it runs my electric blanket! Electric blankets don't like modified-sinewave inverters - they won't run. The use a PWM circuit to run the actual blanket, and that doesn't work with modified sinewave.
Next - a 3-stage 100 amp charger built in, that is load sensing, meaning, if you're only plugged into a 15amp shore power outlet, it adjust the charge vs. TC power use to not blow the shore power breaker. EG--nothing running in the TC, it charges as fast as it can. But you hit the microwave, it senses the 120v load and turns down the charger to not blow the shore power breaker.
Last - it can actually fire my 13K BTU roof air! I have enough battery power to run a small city, plus, a 100amp 4ga charge circuit from the truck. It was drawing 87amps@12v running my roof air, so I could easily go 6-7 hours if I needed to(that's less than 15amps per battery), then just start the truck. but how often will I need to do this here near Seattle? Not much...
Most everything I've read about covers are negative. Don't last long, induces moisture, etc.
I'll add to that. I had an Aqua-Shed. It did exactly as the name implied -- it was a shed for water. I would go out when it was raining, and more water was coming down my downspouts on the camper than over and off the cover.
I called Aquashed and complained. I figured they forgot to spray it with Rainx or something. They said "Oh, it's supposed to breath".... I replied "like a fish?". They hung up on me. It was not a good call.
I'm near Seattle, and that was the biggest waste of money I ever spent on my TC.
If you're in Arizona and want to keep the sun off, get an Aquashed.
call me old fashioned, but i still prefer springs over air bags to handle the weight. go to your spring shop and have them inspected. if they are reputable, they won't try to sell you something you don't need. good luck.
I'm not a fan of bags. The number of times you'll hear people say thier bags leak or popped will outweigh those who say thier springs failed. My uncle has bags on his Dodge. Had to air them back up every day during a 2-day each way road trip.
That's not a power strip, that's the kill-a-watt meter measuring load.
So Boaty, what I am taking away from this is that a) a 2000 and a 1000 can be paralleled together to make 3000 watts, and b) I don't need to pay $200 for a special parallel cord, I can just use a suicide cord to connects the gens together via their outlets. Caution here is be sure the polarity is correct on the cord so (+) to (+) and (-) to (-).
Am I missing anything?
Nope, you worded that perfectly. And I love the term "suicide cord" btw... :B
I didn't check the TOTAL max output of both together, but I'd assume it's close to the max. Roof Air, converter/charger, tv, dish and microwave all running at once should be pretty close.
I load up this Sunday for my first trip with my recently installed Roadmaster, can't wait. I have been driving my truck around corners (empty) extra hard and I have ZERO body roll, crazy.
I'm pretty sure this will be the best $300 I have spent in a while.
Where'd you find them for $300?
***Disclaimer-- As with my previous posts pertaining to things electrical, I'm an Electrical Engineer, DO NO try this at home. You will burn down your camper, kill your neighbor's dog, and smoke two very expensive generators if you do this wrong***
Since I just picked up a Honda EU2000i-Companion gen yesterday, and I already have a EU1000i. I thought I'd tackle two "Urban Legends".
1-- You can't hook dis-similar Honda's together
2-- You MUST use Honda's VERY expensive parallel cord to run two gen's together.
First -- research. I did a LOT of reading out there. There are tons of posts saying "Oh no, I HEARD you can't do that". I finally found credible posts that not only said, but showed you could.
Second -- Schematics. I found the schematics for each generator after a short Google search. Note the circle around the wiring for the outlets vs. the "Parallel Ports" - on both generators they are tied directly to the outlet.
WORSE YET-- The parallel ports on the 2000 BYPASS the breaker! Why did they do that???
So I made a simple 15a double-male cord using some heavy duty 12ga cord. Honda uses the "Parallel Kit" plugs for safety-- I just made a completely exposed double male cord. If you're drunk enough to grab hold of it while it's plugged into a running generator, you get bit. Honda's Parallel Kit - you can't get bit.
***There is no special signalling, sync'ing, or voodoo pixie dust on the parallel ports***. The inverters are auto-sensing for the 60hz sync at start up regardless whether you plug into the 110v plug or the parallel ports.
Note the 2000 parallel ports bypass the breaker--
My simple cord---
So, first, I of course VERY cautiously lit both off. No problem. I then plugged in my heat-gun. I used that first because it's a purely resistive load, and let's face it, very cheap if I smoked it.
Using a Kill-O-Watt meter, I checked it plugged into the wall first--
Plugged it into the 1000's outlet, both gen's connected and running--
1550 watts. (a slight voltage difference between wall power and gen power). Both generators raised up off eco-idle and came up.
Removed the Kill-O-Watt meter from the heat gun, and plugged it into the Jumper Cable I made to see how much wattage the 2000 was putting out.
Fired up both Gen's, hit the heat gun again. The load was almost perfectly spread--The 2000 was sending 1040 watts through the circuit, meaning just over 50% of it's capacity. That also means by simple subtraction, the 1000 was putting 510 watts--also arguably close to 50% of it's rating.
Time to try it on the TC.
Left everything on--Converter, tv, Sat dish, etc. Hit the roof air, lit no problem, no struggle. Lit quick, both gen's revv'd up, then both came back down to just above the low-rpm eco speed.
The real test - hit the microwave with the roof air and everything else going. They both sped up, complained a lot, but never went into overload.
So why do all this, (besides to show we can) --
I can use the 1000 for charging batteries, leave the 2000 at home. It uses half the gas the 2000 does.
The 2000 - good for running everything, or just the roof air alone in ideal conditions (low altitude, no other power drain). Leave the 1000 at home.
Both gens - it's hot out, I'm camping in the mountains, and need the roof air.
But it's also nice to know I don't have to drag around a big, heavy $2200 EU3000i if I don't need it on any given trip. I can take one VERY small one, one slightly bigger one, or both.
***And the net cost of a 2000 + 1000 is several hundred less than a 3000.***
Worth noting--I also have a 2KW inverter w/6 batteries, so these gen's are not going to see a lot of use.