I'll be going to the Oregon coast soon to go play with my sand toys, and when I get there I'll be taking my TC off the truck for a week.
Most of the time I don't bother taking it off if it's just a day or weekend trip. But when I take it off there's always this uncomfortable wobble, even fully lowered to the ground..
Well son of fast-gun (see what I did there :) ), Torklift makes jack braces called Wobble Stoppers. They took all of 15 minutes to put on, and wow, what a difference.
Uses the same Fast-Gun style turnbuckles as thier tie-down system, and everything is theft-resistant -- Special security head bolts with lock nuts, and they came with another set of Fast-Gun style locks. And all the hardware is stainless. Even the screws going into the camper were a special security head. And yes, they even sent the security bits for your cordless.
And there's a second bracket just so you can stow them without having to remove them, while still keeping them locked on---
My same stinger fit both old 20k and new 30k hitch after the insert is in the top receiver.
Spacing between top of one receiver and bottom of the other WITH insert in was pretty darn close to 1" exactly.
So, had to find a new home to post pics before i could do this little write up. If you can't see the pics, can you please IM me.
I had one of the very original TorkLift Superhitch 20k hitches with a 4 foot SuperTruss. Has worked absolutely great, but I felt with my fancy new Shotwagon, I mean, trailer, I should up my hitch. Didn't need to, the 20k can handle it, just felt the need to go bigger. And since Torklift of course makes an integrated set of their new aluminum Talon tie downs to go with it, I stepped up to the plate.
Since I wasn't replacing a factory hitch, this was pretty straight forward.
"Old" 20k Superhitch--
Very heavy - not to be done without the assistance of a friend or a jack--
Here is the parts for the new Talons - very beefy, thick aluminum tubes and brackets.
used my floor jack to nicely lower the old, as well as lift the new
Very well packed - not one scratch or nick on any of the parts n peices
Very complete package of goodies - actually over done, since it included a set of bolts for factory swap as well as non-factory hitch swap. I now have extra nuts n bolts!
Also took this opportunity to wipe down and throw 2 coats of flat black on everything under there.
30K - Ya Baby!!
New hitch installed with the shiny new aluminum Talon's
The Shotwagon I'm hauling with my new hitch
Using Photobucket. (Old picture with my AF from when I was doing test laps @Daytona).
Google Drive doesn't work for hotlinking. From Google's FAQ page-- "The ability to host an image directly from Google Drive has been discontinued by Google. "
The Comcast change won't matter to me. No matter where you put files/web pages, you need a backup plan.
Having them backed up isn't the issue at all, I've always had the originals + a backup for those.... It's going through gawd knows how many posts I've posted over the years and updating the URL's to another host.
And OMG.... I just copied everything down from Comcast.
Over all these years of being on RVNet I've posted 412 pictures.....
We never bothered to activate ours. Any idea what is their referred-to "special offer" ?
So, you get half off some other outside web hosting account. But of course my internet bill will not be going down.....
I'm looking into Google Drive. It's free, anyone with an Android phone already has a Google account, and it includes 15Gb for free - more than I'll EVER use. My Comcast account was 2Gb, and I've not even close to that limit.
Wayne - I'm guessing you'll move this, that's fine. Should probably be in the Tech forum but since I hang out here I thought I'd at least have a place in line in here.
PWP - For those on Comcast/XFinity, Personal Web Pages, or, the place where a lot of people using Comcast put pictures to then share here on RVNet. Well, as of Oct8 it will be gone.
There's a lot of places to have pictures hosted, but I've posted SOOOO many pictures over the years, all stored on my Comcast account, there's just no way I can go back and update each and every link to every thread I've ever posted.
All of my posts with pics will lose their pics.
Moral of the story - for those who have used their personal Comcast space to put pictures here on RVNet, come Oct8, they will be gone. Not only removing the service, but deleting anything you've stored there. Links will no longer work, pictures will be gone. Take time to back up your stuff soon before it's gone.
Comcast's published notification
Truck Camper Magazine, in their buyers guide, figured 5,735 pounds for a 2015 EC 1160 wet weight.
Nope... Still no where near. 7,200 on the DOT scale by my house.
My AF1150 scaled out at about 5,200 loaded for bear. I could immediately feel the difference the minute I put the EC on, the scale then verified my Butt-O-Meter. Fully 1 ton heavier.
It was only after getting the EC that I then put a lot more money into the truck - Front and rear RoadMaster Sway bars, Rancho 9000's, and StableLoads.
Running an AF1150 I was happy the way the truck was with just my springs. The EC, top heavier than Dolly Parton and the 'ole truck needed some help.
And worth noting - it isn't just the weight, it's almost a foot taller than my AF was due to the floor being over the bed rails.
My uncle hauls a modest 36' triple axle toyhauler when we go out. I won't name names, but he bought Fuel rims for his SRW Dodge from a place that likes to give away FREE BEEF.
Scales say he only has a pin weight of 2500lbs. BOTH rear rims cracked, leaked, and left the tires flat. Low grade, thin, cast aluminum, cheap China-made rims couldn't even hold up to 2500lbs. Virtually no TC weighs in at 2500lbs, imagine the carnage if he had a 4000lb TC.
Well, this **place** that gives away free beef did, AFTER a lot of arguing and trips to the store, offer to refund all 4 tires and wheels to go with Vision 19.5 rims and new tires for his Dodge.
I would buy from this place that gives away free beef, but just not anything that is their in-house brand.
And BTW - this all happened just this spring.
Got your IM, I'll just reply here... I'm about as bad as any Country music song - I'll never get rid of my dog or my truck. Thought about getting a new/bigger one, but wow, they're proud of new F450/550's. And the F450's do not offer any more GVW than an F350, just more GCVW/towing.
My truck has never left me stuck. The old trusty 7.3L with 80k miles on it. But i have done a lot to it to make it better suited for a huge camper, a lot of which I did only after I got my Eagle Cap.
I am not a fan of air bags, so I have just springs and Torklift StableLoads. Bags can leak or pop, so that's why. So pretty much like my sig says -- did Rancho 9000's, Roadmaster sway bars F&R. Dropped a Jasper MonsterBox tranny in years ago to avoid the factory's weakest link in the 7.3's. I run BFG All-Terrains but have been gicing serious thought to 19.5's.
figure on between 7500 and 8000 on the rear axle loaded up. you will need better tires if not an upgrade to 19.5 wheels and tires in the long run
I agree.. Too much for the tires. Either 19.5's or get a DRW.
If you do a google search on Lance 1121, then click 'images', you'll see they're all on dually's.
I just use this... It's a simple RV Fridge squirrel cage fan from Wally Mart. It runs off a couple D batteries and lasts a REALLY long time because it runs the motor through a resistor to slow it down and use less battery juice.
Wally Mart fridge fan
I think I'm one of the few people that have had both. I had a 2012 AF 1150, then got a 2012 EC 1160, both pretty big ones in their respective lines.
Cold weather boon docking, I do a lot of that. Did it up in the mountains for Jeeping in the winter, and also go out to the WA coast in the winter.
My comparisons are all my observations, not just cold weather boon-docking. But in regards to cold-weather alone, I can't honestly say I have major pluses or minuses for either.
* Both are well insulated. Arctic fox does have it beat by a very small margin - I went through maybe 20% less propane heating it.
* Both have heated basements - The way Eagle Cap does it keeps the basement much warmer. AF uses a small box fan to circulate air, EC uses the entire furnace intake through the floor and into the basement. But pushing more air through the basement makes me think this is why I go through more propane in the EC.
* Tanks - EC wins for water. 75 Fresh, 32 Gray, 28 Black.
AF wins for black tank - Fresh 59, Gray 35, Black 43
* Storage - EC hands down. At least for my model to model comparison. I can literally crawl up in the huge rear storage of the EC.
* Floor space - again, EC hands down. The AF's floor is in between the bed rails, so only 6foot-ish is all the wider it can be. The EC is up over the rails, a full 98" wide. Night and day floor space.
* Because the floor in the EC is much higher, the step from floor to the bunk is only about 24". AF was 3 feet-ish.
* My EC has a sofa AND a dinette. This and the floor space is the reason I sold a near-new AF to get a near-new EC.
* My EC has a Heki Roof Vent in the bunk - it's huge and has an integrated cover, I love it.
* Much bigger bathroom in the EC - VERY small "toilet space" in the AF, and also a comparatively small shower.
* Weight - my EC is much heavier, but this is not inherent to the EC line, I have their second biggest double slide TC, so just an issue with my particular model. You need a DRW, F350, F450 or F550. I've **seen** people hauling around the bigger AF's on a SRW, but I don't recommend it.
I'm sure I'll think of more stuff, I'll edit this if I do.
I have a 2015 Chevy 3500, DRW. It has some kind of tire malfunction warning devise built into it. I don't know what it is or how it functions.
I can't answer your questions, but I can help you with the above comment.
Whether they're a dummy-light system, or a fully monitor-able PSI TPMS system, they work through your Key-Fob receiver. Dummy-light systems are just that... dummy lights at low pressure, with a TPMS sensor in each tire.
The ones from the factory that display actual pressure/PSI also work through the Keyless Entry receiver via TPMS sensors in each tire. They will transmit every so often, not constantly. You could, in theory, get a quick leaker, and be flat before the system realizes it. Just keep that in mind.
They only transmit when in motion. It's not like they're sitting there pinging all night when your car is in the garage. After several thousand miles, the batteries inside each sensor go dead and you have to replace them. It's about the same time you need new tires. And no, you can't just replace the batteries - they're sealed in epoxy.
When the tire dealer install new ones, they reprogram your Keyless Entry receiver the same way as if you needed a new door keyfob. usually by either a series of honks by the horn, or a dash display saying which sensor to program when.
My last TC trip out involved a trip down miles of an extremely dusty logging road. Couldn't even see the trailer in the mirrors. I of course washed it when I got back, but didn't do the roof.
I pulled my trailer out to load it for the next trip, the roof was so dirty I lost roughly 30% of my charge. The batteries were low enough to have to have the controller kick into 'full blast' mode. I normally get around 35-36amps on full-tilt.
Until I get up there to clean it, I'm getting a whopping 26amps. It's so dirty you can't even see the 4 huge panels on the roof....
:M **DO NOT GET AN AIR MATTRESS FOR ANY RV!!! ** :M
ok, sorry for internet-yelling. So, I did it for years, it was a massive PITA. Super expensive ones, cheap Colemans, they were all the same.
First - they leak.
Next, it's never the same pressure from one stop to another. As you travel up and down in elevation, outside pressure changes--the mattress does not. Unless of course it's leaking. It will be stiffer as you go up, flat as you go down to sea level.
Next - they leak.
And...cross a mountain pass, and you will be replacing it. It will pop. Ever had a bag of sealed chips in the car over a pass? Looks like a mylar balloon.
If you DO remember to let the air out before going over a pass, then you have to pump it back up to "Just the right" pressure again.
You going to use a hand pump? Battery pump? 110v pump? Bring one of each.