Nice looking camper! That thing would barely fit on my dually (weight wise) so I hope that works for you. Your camper weighs 4250 lbs according to your weight scale tickets, that must be your dry weight, wet would be well over 5000 lbs plus all your gear. Ouch
Thats nuthin....Especially for a triple slide. My AF1150 loaded was 5280. And if you want a real choker---My EC is 7550.
I can't believe I've had my "new" EC double-slide for all of six months, now I'm considering the newest triple-slide from Host, the "Mammoth". Can get it with a fireplace, king size bed, and a big slide-out storage tray.
I talked at length yesterday with the one of the co-owners at Host. He sent me a ton of pictures, and a price sheet. Optioned out the way I want, would be between $50-$54k, the variable being the genny for $4k. I don't need a genny, I run a ton of batteries and a big inverter. My last AF had both - genny and inverter, I sold it with 4 hours on the genny.
Anyway, he said "Lance and AF are great, well built TC's, but more like Bayliners - mass produced, good products, great for the masses. Host is for people who have already had one or more TC's and want to step up". I thought that was a rather bold statement.
So, anyone have one, or seen one in person yet that can comment on it?
I took these images from thier website---
In recent years I've had 3 TC's. AF 1140, 1150, and now an Eagle Cap. You just missed out, I sold my 2012 1150 for $29...
But-- Having owned 2 AFs and now an EC, Here's what I would say -
1140 - The "Storage monster". It had excellent storage inside and out. The storage room came of course in trade with floor space. Nice big storage outside for bbq, chairs, fold up table, etc. Floor width is limited to 5' due to being inside and under the bedrails of the truck.
1150 - MUCH less storage for outside stuff, but a more "open" feel to the inside. One drawback - can't get an 8 Cubic Ft fridge as an option. Floor width is limited to 5' due to being inside and under the bedrails of the truck.
My Current EC (See Sig) - Best of both worlds--floor is over the bedrails so it's 8' wide BEFORE the slides are pushed out, feels like a motorhome inside, and a massive basement storage. My only complaint - Happijacks. I hate 'em. The AF had Rieco's---excellent jacks. Weight rating is 25% less on these jacks, they're slow, and sound as if they're going to blow apart at any minute --- They're not, they just sound like it.
I've had my EC for all of six months, and then just this week I saw the new Host Mammoth.... I may be on the war path for my 4th TC in 3 years.
Overall quality of the AF's is great, make sure to stay on top of your caulking, but that's advice for any TC.
This topic is discussed frequently. Search this Forum for `rv cover' perhaps in the Truck Camper section to minimize the responses.
That's not the type of response we want to be giving out. Virtually EVERY topic pertaining to a TC has been greatly discussed at some point on here.
The whole point of a forum is to get responses, not minimize them. If we tell people to do that, there won't be a forum, just a big searchbox.
I have managed to get 4 sites set aside for us at the koa in Leavenworth Washington
I was just there this weekend. Be forewarned - most of the water lines are already frozen. I was there with 5 rigs this weekend. Place was empty. They charged us full rates even though the water lines in all our spots were froze.
Overnight low temps this week are forcasted to be in the single digits there this week - between 5 - 9 degrees. Guaranteed they'll still be froze.
Fortunately, mine carries 75 gallons of fresh, so no worries for me. It was just the point of the matter. Two of my friends both had their wives and 3 daughters each in their rigs. 40 gallons in their rigs doesn't go far when you have 4 women in each rig.
I'm the OP..
Since posting this thread I did sell it. It was a very loaded 2012 Arctic Fox 1150, with every option AF has and then some. 3 awnings, 2.5kw gen, 1.5kw Inverter, 2 tvs, all sorts of other stuff. I got $29 for it, which did smart a bit, I was into to it for $48. I know $48 seems high, but it's a long story, involved an insurance claim, botched repairs, but anyway, between my old one, insurance and cash it was $48 OTD.
DON'T get an Aquashed... They're anything BUT a waterproof cover. I bought 2 - one for my toyhauler, one for my TC. $450 and $300 respectively. Both were worthless in the Pacific NW for rain.
When I called in utter dissappointment, they stated "oh, they're supposed to breath", and I said, "Like a fish? There's more water under the cover running down the side of my camper than there is down the outside of the cover". They hung up.
I've since sold the toyhauler, and I'm finally building a pole/beam/trussed 26x24 carport for my TC and (possibly) new boat. If I don't get the new boat I'm looking at, then there's room for Sleepy's new covered parking spot.
The newer roof airs use triple starting capacitors on the compressor motor, making them easier to start. They will still draw what older ones do while running, but the triple capacitor design means the surge to start is "softened".
That's pretty cool how Artic Fox does that. What are your plans for the Eagle Cap?
Funny you should ask. My "old" AF 1150 had those two perfect spots to install the baseboard heaters. But in my EC, not so much. Because of the dual slides, there really isn't a place to install baseboard heaters.
Right now I just have a small 1500 watt forced air heater I keep in there, but the plan is to add a 110v Cadet in-wall heater and thermostat.
Cadet heater clicky
I could add a heat strip to the roof air, but the fan in it is like a friggin hurricane even on low. Too noisy and breezy in the bunk area. I use it when I have to for AC, don't want to use it for heat.
That brings me to my next question -
How come no one else is considering adding a heat strip to their roof air? Most all roof airs are prewired for one, they're 1500 watts, and put out a lot of heat. I had one in a 32' TT I had a few years ago, did a good job even in a 32' TT.
Heat Strip clicky
I mean: such a gigantic camper and only such a little, tiny place to sit - like the chickens do. On this side 2 people sitting, other side two people. So much room all in all, but no real comfortable place to stay cosy.
I don't get it either.
Mine has two slides, and I've got a TON of room for seating---with a comfy sofa to boot.
How would you keep your basement warm if you didn't run the furnace?Since this question would apply to any form of heat not produced by the propane furnace, you have to understand how an AF "heats" the basement.
On an Arctic Fox, the basement isn't heated by a direct furnace vent. Air is circulated by a generic box fan in the vent by the slide out switch under the bathroom, and a return vent in the step by the water tank. Furnace kicks on, 12v gets sent to the box fan. The fan runs as long as the furnace is on.
You can add a simple SPDT (single pole double throw) switch to the box fan. Wire the "auto" mode from the furnace on one side, 12v constant on the other. Leaving the fan on would be fine, since the whole premise of this thread is how to heat the TC when you're plugged in. It only draws 1/8 of an amp, or 125mA.
Yup, sold privately. I remember when I bought it brand new all those years ago, it was a 2012. Now fast forward all these years to 2013, it was old and worn out, the generator was on it's last leg with I think 9 hours on it.
My former AF 1150 that is.
It's been sitting here for sale the last couple months since I got my EC. I waived bye bye to it today. It was a good TC. I'll miss it.
I went a different route on my 1150, and installed 2 baseboard heaters, both wired to a thermostat, that in turn connected to the Roof Air's circuit breaker.
Both from Home Depot mail order--
On the sink side, a 48" 1000 watt baseboard heater, and on the Fridge side, a 36" 500 watt.
(I only have the one pic handy here on my laptop, I'll look for the other side.)
Provided EXCELLENT silent heat, never got the cabinets warm. Thermostat had a minimum of 40 degree setting, so also made a good freeze stopper in the winter. I tapped into the existing roof air circuit breaker because, let's face it, when would i ever run the roof air and the heater at the same time? but I did, from time to time, run the roof air fan-only on low to help circulate the heat.
This was VERY easy to mount and wire, I'm an electrical engineer, but don't be afraid to tap into the breaker panel.
I had double pane windows in my AF, so if I were someplace with power, this was all the heat I needed--even camping in the snow/sub freezing temps.