You need these-- Torklift Wobble Stoppers.
I have a VERY heavy camper with two slides, these things made a HUGE difference, as good as having the camper on sawhorses. They permanently attach to the camper's front jacks so there is no storage taken up to store them.
With a truck as heavy duty as an F450, there shouldn't need a need for those struts.
Before I say what I have to say, a big huge CONGRATS on getting what will inevitably be drooled all over by the rest of us... You know, between you and that new Host Mammoth that ZB39 got... I'm feeling like my shabby run down set up needs a refresher.
I have an F450, previously an F350DRW. The frame of the truck twists, albeit less in the '17s, but the camper is meant to not have a torque factor applied to the bunk area. It just rolls back and forth happily with the bed of the truck. I would think with such a heavy truck, if the cab and bed needed to flex and you didn't allow that flex due to the struts, you'd create quite a structural issue with the TC.
9,000lb truck wants to flex and a 4,000lb TC doesn't want to let it, something's bound to give in a not happy way.
No facts to back this up, just MHO...
I can't stop looking at the pics... Then RV Trader. Then back to the pics... Then Craigslist...
All of a sudden my Eagle Cap 1160 is looking small. I think I'm having a bout of SOS. This is not going to end well for my wallet....
These are 10 yrs old and the finish on this particular one deteriorated that it began to rust extensively to the point of cracking and failure. To my disappointment I found out that the lifetime warranty doesn't cover replacement if it is due to the finish failing resulting in rust.
Sticky, you've been on here a long time, and I respect you and what you have to say. That being said... I don't mean to insult or bash, but I would have contacted TL long before failure and let them know you had a problem with the powder coating.
Likewise, there has to be a point at which inspection and maintenance should have come into play. If I find rust on my frame, axles, or anything I've installed, I wire brush and rattle can it.
Also - Powder coat doesn't like rocks. Do you have Front/rear mudflaps?
Again, not trying to bash you, but I just don't necessarily feel it's fair to bash such a well respected company as Torklift over something that could have been prevented long ago with either maintenance or contacting them before total failure.
Get the Aluminum Talons, sounds like the best option for your circumstance.
Shiny Object Syndrome... I chronically suffer from it.
I priced an F450 through my employer's X-Plan discount. Out the door here in WWA with nearly 10% sales tax came to $82k.
My SOS was quickly cured.....
Worth noting, there is a beautiful 2017 F450 on Ebay brand new for a Buy it Now of $66k. I'd still have to pay nearly 10% tax on it once it's registered here.
F450 on Ebay
I'm of course not affiliated with Ebay or the seller... just posting as a public service.
To the OP--
Make sure to look at F450's vs. F350's - Dana 110 rear end vs. Dana 80 - that's 14k lbs vs. 10k lbs. Also, 19.5's vs. 17" tires. The 19.5's are rated at 4k lbs per tire. If you're going to haul a BIG TC with a trailer on a Superhitch, make sure to consider an F450.
I confess that I didn't know a truck camper dolly like this existed commercially. I'm looking in anticipation of possibly storing mine on one in the future. Anyway, pretty cool and not that pricey.
In this video, he moves a Host Everest at 4425 dry! Oh, looking at the Rieco site, they are just over $700.
You got me thinking, making one would be pretty easy with some extremely heavy duty casters, some angle iron, chop saw and a little time with Mr. Lincoln (my welder-yes, mine's red, not blue).
These are swivel casters rated at 2,200lbs each--on sale for $37ea
Ya, I was going to post he end of the story.
One of you had gone in because you got a notice saying you had to renew in person. JimH?
Anyway, I took a snapshot of Eagle Cap's website dry weight spec (that is wayyyy lower than actual), and took it in. Before I said why I was in there, I played dumb and just asked to renew the tabs.
They asked, "what kind of RV is it?"
I said, "a truck camper, you know, one of those small fits-in-the-bed kind".
They said, "Oh, ok, the computer said we needed to update our records".
No question of weight came up. $15.
I was pretty hot about that notice about having to get it weighed. If you couldn't tell....
I purchased a 12' utility trailer from Costco something like 10+ years ago, and it came set up virtually identical to this, with an extendable tongue.
Granted, it's only a 2500lb trailer, but I've never had a problem with it.
I found an example of someone doing this type of work here:
The cheap little two-strokes are the WORST of the irritating obnoxious generators.
You'll hate it.
X2...or 3 or 5, however many have said basically the same thing. No offense to the OP, I get it, everyone has budgets. But I would also recommend as an alternative a cheap Honda-knock off any day over a two-stroke.
Let me tell you a true story, happened just last year.
I went to a large flea market put on by the entire town of Packwood, Wa last memorial weekend. There's one RV campground in town that's always booked solid, the rest of the RV parking is either out of town or are people or businesses renting out grass to park on. I always park at the end of town at a large hotel's back yard.
I parked next to a very young couple with nothing more than a single axle car/box trailer they had towed there with their Kia. It had an air mattress inside, a Coleman cooler, and that's it, that's what they had. That, and a bunch of rechargeable camp lights.
And... one of these 2-stroke generators.
Well, that evening they fired the thing up next to me to charge up their camp lights. I couldn't even hear my TV. This went on for 15 minutes, so I went outside and (politely) asked what they were using such a small generator for. They were doing nothing but charging up camp lights and cell phones.
I have enough battery power to light a small city, and a very nice Magnum 3KW Hybrid Inverter. I (nicely) offered them if they shut that thing off, I'd run them an extension cord and just leave my inverter on all weekend. I use it all night anyway for my electric blanket.
Moral of the story---
Their 2-stroke generator worked great - it got the neighbor(me) so irritated they got free power all weekend.
Yes, I use a weight distributing hitch with my Super Truss. I use an Eaz Lift brand, round bar style. I run my ball height slightly higher than normal, because my trailer is a land-yacht sized monster. (heavy tongue weight)
Ditto... Same set up, 10k 26' trailer with ~1,000lb tongue weight on 48" Supertruss.
Done it for years, never a problem.
So, literally, my only complaint about my new (to me) 2015 F450 is the lighting sucks.
I did a bunch of reading, and finally settled on Rough Country for several reasons, cost, various internet reviews, and pictures of fit and finish. I purchased their 30" LED light bar, and their 36w LED Ford Fog lamp Retrofit kit. Now - I didn't do both projects today, so if some of these pictures seem a little off on their timeline, that's why.
I did the bar light first. I saw one picture out on the interweb of it being mounted in the grill rather than the usual bumper mount or high-windshield mount (and to me, on a truck, both are very gawdy looking) . So I decided to go full-stealth, behind the grill. I will say this, when it was all said and done, you'd think they made this light on purpose just for this. (OK, they kinda did).
ok, first, the usual disclaimer, I'm not affiliated with Rough Country..... Second disclaimer - For the light haters - I will never run the light bar on a road with on-coming traffic. Unless of course they're being an arse with their highbeams...:B
First - I removed the grill AND grill subassembly so I could do all of the fit and trimming on my workbench. When removing a Ford front grill, you can do either - just the grill, or grill+sub assembly which makes the latter half of this pretty nice.
In this picture, the grill has been removed, sub assembly still on the truck. Look closely and you'll see which fasteners are holding on the subassembly VS. the actual grill itself---
Grill and subassembly on my bench, mounting light bar to subassembly with grill separated.
A very slight amount of trimming needed to be done to the inner grill to flush fit the light behind it.
Grill and subassembly fit together on my bench
Subassmbly alone put back on truck
Light connected to Ford Upfitter switch
I did the foglights today. First thing I discovered that's NOT in the manual that came with the kit - it is WAY easier to just take the grill back out and then remove the headlight assemblies. The top two bolts holding the foglight buckets in are a PITA to get to if you follow the instructions. Get the headlights out, and wow, 10 seconds yer done.
Grill and headlight assemblies out of the way
Now, wow, super easy to get to the top bolts--
Here's the kit installed into the factory foglight bucket
I did the first one with the grill on, and said to heck with that, but here are the before/after pics with just ONE lamp done for comparison---
Here we are all done...... Light bar and fog lights mounted.
With just the factory headlights
After - (The light bar is so bright, it closed the iris on my camera down and made the headlights look dimmer)
I also have LED replacement headlight kits coming. I'll add to this or just do another post when they get here.
What's been the best towing hitch to put on the front of my 2014 Jeep? I'd like the absolutely least obtrusive looking one when I'm just driving the Jeep alone. Anotherwords, I don't want my Jeep looking funky. But I still want a good one.
I will be running my TC and 48" SuperTruss/Superhitch. The Jeep itself still has the stock Rubicon front bumper on it.
Pic of my "new to me" 2014 Rubicon.
Wayne may move this to towing, that's fine.
I just bought myself Jeep #5... a loaded 2014 Wrangler Rubicon 4 door with a mild lift on 35's.
So, ya'll can see my sig. I have a big trailer. I also have a Brake Buddy that I've had for years. I've trailered for years, then a friend of mine gave me an older Brake Buddy. I've never used it. The hassle with trailering - equalizer bars, strapping the Jeep down, loading/unloading.
Soooooo---if you had both--a trailer and a Brake Buddy, what would you do when you just want to haul your Jeep around? Flat tow or trailer?
On edit, a pic of my "New to me" jeep---
With your TC on the truck(assuming you can get it on the truck), raise the jack off the ground, then try cranking it with the emergency hand crank. It should be smooth and relatively easy, if not, you could have worn out/rusted out worm gears causing the motor to work too hard, drawing too many amps, and popping fuses.
If it's smooth with the hand crank, take the motor head off and see how easily the spur gear turns.
I don't bother blocking the inner and outers either. I just do the outers unless it's no more trouble to do both. And you know what? The tires don't explode, or turn square, the axles don't bend, and nothing bad happens.
There are guys driving down the freeway with huge campers on singles... I don't recommend that but parking on them is fine.
Ditto. X2. Yah, what he said.
I've had a dually now over 15 years. I used to use the lego bricks, now I use progressive ramps, and only on the outer duals, then once pretty close to level, use the camper jacks for fine tuning and stabilization.
Just looking for input on decent chains for 19.5's. My use will not be extreme offroad snow, just regular on-highway use. Even though I do have 4wd which makes me exempt from chains in Wa St, I want to keep chains handy for the extra "just in case".
What did you end up buying/from who?
And, for those who have---
Do you do just the outer duals or all 4 rear, or all 6?
Have you chained up with your TC on?