Your money but a 370 mile range isn't limiting in my view.
It's not just the added range that makes a bigger tank advantageous. It also gives you the opportunity to be more selective about where you buy your fuel, and bypass a high-cost area entirely. While my current truck doesn't have an after-market fuel tank, a previous truck did and I loved it. I carried a total of 65 gallons between two tanks. Did I always use the full range it gave me? No. But as I said, it's not just about range. It was there if I needed it, which I did a few times.
I would go for the biggest, which would be the 67 gallon Titan. I also like the fact that it's plastic. As long as it's adequately protected, plastic would be superior IMHO.
:):)I agree with Lwiddis. For me it is like spending $1000 to increase your MPG by 1 mpg. I cannot imagine breaking even in your lifetime, much less your trucks lifetime. To spend that kind of money cause you can, okay. To spend that money for bragging rights, okay. But if you do note frequently drive cross country, I can't see any advantage. How much will it cost to haul the extra fuel?
Guys... Sorry, I should explained WHY I want a bigger tank. It has nothing to do with picking and choosing the cheapest fuel.
I'm 54 feet long from bow to stern. I can't fit in your mom and pop convince store fuel ups. And I NEVER run below 1/4 tank unless I know for fact a fuel station I can fit in is just up ahead....so to the comment of "370 miles is plenty". I for one do not wait until mile 369 to then look for fuel. So "370 mile range" comment is entirely irrelevant.
So - this is about range and "fit into the gas station" anxiety. In my case, a 57-67 gallon tank would allow me to more easily space out the spots I can fit in.
So back to the question - anyone have one, and what are the opinions of the tank you have?
I'm looking into replacement fuel tanks. I'd like to hear from folks who have replaced the existing tank with a larger replacement. Since I haul a TC, can't use a bed tank like I did when I had a 5'er. Also don't want a spare tire replacement tank...I like having a spare.
Stock tank is 37 gallons. Fully loaded, depending on where I go, I get 10-11mpg. Usually, it's my arse saying it's time to stop and take a fuel break before my gauge says to. But sometimes, it would be nice to have a little extra range.
I've found three so far for my truck, these are the best prices I could find--.
-Titan 67 gallon, ABS plastic, $1409 free shpg
-Aerotanks Aluminized Steel, 60 gallon, $980 + $170shpg
-TransferFlow Aluminized Steel, 57 gallon $1185 free shpg
The Titan appears to be the most popular, but that doesn't mean it's the best.
I called (MorningStar) and talked directly to a tech. ....You just can't ask for better customer service
That reminds me... I called Morningstar once just for questions. Great people.
Another point worth mentioning - the call was about "over watt'ing" the controller. You can more than double the wattage input rating with panels and it simply shunts what it can't use to it's max of 45a output.
Why would you do that you ask...? Why not just get a bigger controller?
Here in Western Wa, we will likely never see "ideal" solar conditions except the mid day july sun. You may need 800 or 900 watts in solar just to get 600 watts out. But you go on a road trip to Arizona...now you have too many watts in panels. No big deal, it will safely shunt what it can't use and peak out at it's max charge rate.
I've built three solar systems using the Morning Star 45amp MPPT controllers. None have failed, and they are very quick to respond to changes in solar output, eg, clouds coming and going.
They are also very flexible, allowing up to 150vdc input to be MPPT'd down to 12vdc. This has the benefit of using higher voltage panels and consequently, lower loss due to cable resistance from the panels to the controller. I'm currently running 600w of solar on my trailer @96vdc input to the controller.
On a side note, I also love the remote monitoring panel. My controller is right next to the batteries to again promote the shortest cable distance/lowest loss possible. The monitor is at the other end of my trailer by the front side access door.
This pics are a little dated, before I cleaned things up/finished--
Panels on the roof - 4 total
Batteries, Inverter and Solar controller (before I had mounted the monitor remotely)
Monitor's new home by the front access door
It would really be worth a look at the
chassis cab 450 and 550 if you are going to haul a truck camper
and a larger trailer.
I would not recommend a cab&chassis because Ford intentionally de-programs the motor in a commercial/C&C version for longevity. They've done this for quite some time. A programmer can bring it up to Superduty specs AND better, but instantly voids your warranty.
The C&C F450/550 stock tune is 330Hp, 750ftlbs torque.
2017 Ford F450 Cab Chassis specs
The same 6.7L in the consumer pickup is rated @ 440hp, 925ftlbs torque.
2017 Ford Superduty specs
HP/Tq numbers are at the very bottom of each page.
As far as brake size, I mentioned bigger brakes on the F450 vs. F350. The difference is pretty substantial. We're talking over an inch larger front and rear.
Taken from the same page as the HP/Tq #'s---
Front (rotor diameter)
Rear (rotor diameter)
There are several huge differences in the 2015+ F450's vs. F350's. Ford back in 2008 put the Dana110 rear end and 19.5 tires on 2008-2010, but then went back to the Dana80 on 17's through 2014. Why they did this I'll never know, because all they did at that point was to put in 4:30 gears and call it an F450.
The 2015+ F450's have a rear axle rated @14k just on it's own, and the 19.5 tires that can hold it. Dana80 on 17's is rated @10k per Dana's spec.
In addition, since they have larger rims, they also increased the size of the brakes all the way around. I had an F350 and traded up to the F450 and I can tell you the difference in loaded ride feel is tremendous.
That being said, I needed the F450 because of the weight of the camper I haul+trailer tongue weight of 1,000lbs. You won't need an F450 for just a 5'er or 'normal' camper. However, if someday you decide to ditch the 5'er and get a BIG camper, consider the extra few bucks now on an F450.
The ONLY thing I've found that doesn't work on a MSW inverter was electric blankets. Not a single one I tried worked on MSW. I have enough batteries to light a small city, so ya, I run my electric blanky all night.
And as most have already said, I have also found that microwaves take ~2x as long to heat up anything stuck in them, and buzz while doing it.
I have a 3k Magnum Technologies PSW Hybrid Inverter/Charger in the TC and a Prosine 1800w PSW in my shotwagon.
The Magnum inverter is probably the best investment I've made in my TC, love it.....
Magnum Technologies 3kw Hybrid Inverter
You need these-- Torklift Wobble Stoppers.
I have a VERY heavy camper with two slides, these things made a HUGE difference, as good as having the camper on sawhorses. They permanently attach to the camper's front jacks so there is no storage taken up to store them.
With a truck as heavy duty as an F450, there shouldn't need a need for those struts.
Before I say what I have to say, a big huge CONGRATS on getting what will inevitably be drooled all over by the rest of us... You know, between you and that new Host Mammoth that ZB39 got... I'm feeling like my shabby run down set up needs a refresher.
I have an F450, previously an F350DRW. The frame of the truck twists, albeit less in the '17s, but the camper is meant to not have a torque factor applied to the bunk area. It just rolls back and forth happily with the bed of the truck. I would think with such a heavy truck, if the cab and bed needed to flex and you didn't allow that flex due to the struts, you'd create quite a structural issue with the TC.
9,000lb truck wants to flex and a 4,000lb TC doesn't want to let it, something's bound to give in a not happy way.
No facts to back this up, just MHO...
I can't stop looking at the pics... Then RV Trader. Then back to the pics... Then Craigslist...
All of a sudden my Eagle Cap 1160 is looking small. I think I'm having a bout of SOS. This is not going to end well for my wallet....
These are 10 yrs old and the finish on this particular one deteriorated that it began to rust extensively to the point of cracking and failure. To my disappointment I found out that the lifetime warranty doesn't cover replacement if it is due to the finish failing resulting in rust.
Sticky, you've been on here a long time, and I respect you and what you have to say. That being said... I don't mean to insult or bash, but I would have contacted TL long before failure and let them know you had a problem with the powder coating.
Likewise, there has to be a point at which inspection and maintenance should have come into play. If I find rust on my frame, axles, or anything I've installed, I wire brush and rattle can it.
Also - Powder coat doesn't like rocks. Do you have Front/rear mudflaps?
Again, not trying to bash you, but I just don't necessarily feel it's fair to bash such a well respected company as Torklift over something that could have been prevented long ago with either maintenance or contacting them before total failure.
Get the Aluminum Talons, sounds like the best option for your circumstance.
Shiny Object Syndrome... I chronically suffer from it.
I priced an F450 through my employer's X-Plan discount. Out the door here in WWA with nearly 10% sales tax came to $82k.
My SOS was quickly cured.....
Worth noting, there is a beautiful 2017 F450 on Ebay brand new for a Buy it Now of $66k. I'd still have to pay nearly 10% tax on it once it's registered here.
F450 on Ebay
I'm of course not affiliated with Ebay or the seller... just posting as a public service.
To the OP--
Make sure to look at F450's vs. F350's - Dana 110 rear end vs. Dana 80 - that's 14k lbs vs. 10k lbs. Also, 19.5's vs. 17" tires. The 19.5's are rated at 4k lbs per tire. If you're going to haul a BIG TC with a trailer on a Superhitch, make sure to consider an F450.
I confess that I didn't know a truck camper dolly like this existed commercially. I'm looking in anticipation of possibly storing mine on one in the future. Anyway, pretty cool and not that pricey.
In this video, he moves a Host Everest at 4425 dry! Oh, looking at the Rieco site, they are just over $700.
You got me thinking, making one would be pretty easy with some extremely heavy duty casters, some angle iron, chop saw and a little time with Mr. Lincoln (my welder-yes, mine's red, not blue).
These are swivel casters rated at 2,200lbs each--on sale for $37ea
Ya, I was going to post he end of the story.
One of you had gone in because you got a notice saying you had to renew in person. JimH?
Anyway, I took a snapshot of Eagle Cap's website dry weight spec (that is wayyyy lower than actual), and took it in. Before I said why I was in there, I played dumb and just asked to renew the tabs.
They asked, "what kind of RV is it?"
I said, "a truck camper, you know, one of those small fits-in-the-bed kind".
They said, "Oh, ok, the computer said we needed to update our records".
No question of weight came up. $15.
I was pretty hot about that notice about having to get it weighed. If you couldn't tell....
I purchased a 12' utility trailer from Costco something like 10+ years ago, and it came set up virtually identical to this, with an extendable tongue.
Granted, it's only a 2500lb trailer, but I've never had a problem with it.
I found an example of someone doing this type of work here:
The cheap little two-strokes are the WORST of the irritating obnoxious generators.
You'll hate it.
X2...or 3 or 5, however many have said basically the same thing. No offense to the OP, I get it, everyone has budgets. But I would also recommend as an alternative a cheap Honda-knock off any day over a two-stroke.
Let me tell you a true story, happened just last year.
I went to a large flea market put on by the entire town of Packwood, Wa last memorial weekend. There's one RV campground in town that's always booked solid, the rest of the RV parking is either out of town or are people or businesses renting out grass to park on. I always park at the end of town at a large hotel's back yard.
I parked next to a very young couple with nothing more than a single axle car/box trailer they had towed there with their Kia. It had an air mattress inside, a Coleman cooler, and that's it, that's what they had. That, and a bunch of rechargeable camp lights.
And... one of these 2-stroke generators.
Well, that evening they fired the thing up next to me to charge up their camp lights. I couldn't even hear my TV. This went on for 15 minutes, so I went outside and (politely) asked what they were using such a small generator for. They were doing nothing but charging up camp lights and cell phones.
I have enough battery power to light a small city, and a very nice Magnum 3KW Hybrid Inverter. I (nicely) offered them if they shut that thing off, I'd run them an extension cord and just leave my inverter on all weekend. I use it all night anyway for my electric blanket.
Moral of the story---
Their 2-stroke generator worked great - it got the neighbor(me) so irritated they got free power all weekend.
Yes, I use a weight distributing hitch with my Super Truss. I use an Eaz Lift brand, round bar style. I run my ball height slightly higher than normal, because my trailer is a land-yacht sized monster. (heavy tongue weight)
Ditto... Same set up, 10k 26' trailer with ~1,000lb tongue weight on 48" Supertruss.
Done it for years, never a problem.