I thought this through a little more.... You could also possibly have a wire come loose inside one of the jacks.
Disconnect both jacks, one at a time, to isolate which corner is your problem child. Then, take a 12v car battery, or the TC battery out, physically set it on the ground and run jumper cables to the jack in question.
Hook it up hot to ground one way, then reverse the hot and ground to run the jack the other way.
If by doing this, the jack works fine, you problem lies in the wires between the controller and the jack. If the jack operates intermittently off a separate battery, you have bad wiring inside the jack itself.
What that means is one of the two wires has lost it's connection to the jack, and your jacks are trying to get a ground via the frame, which they are not meant to because to go up they use one wire for hot, but to go down, they reverse polarity on the wires and the other wire then becomes hot.
So -- you have one of the two wires disconnected. Jacks CANNOT be frame-grounded electrically. In one direction, they're trying to get a ground via the frame and work.... but in the other direction, they are now dead-shorting to the frame and causing sparks.
So, I'm calling out the ones I can think of off the top of my head,
~DJ~, Buzzcut, JimH, Area13, Vinsil, deltabravo, Bedlam. (Sorry if I don't have your name on the list, I have a limited memory...)
I'm thinking of a meet n greet with toys at POSSIBLY Beverly ORV just off I-90 @ the Columbia River. It's a small-area sand toy destination. nothing like Winchester or Coos, but it's what we got.
* Dry camping only
* No campsites - park where you want to camp, we can easily set up a group area.
* Needs a WA DNR pass, that's it, no camping fees.
This is only a thought - no date, open discussion, but if it gets too much past May it starts getting warm there.
But any other place is fine too, it's just one I thought of that's easy to not have to worry about reservations or number of sites to get.
Sorry for the thumbnails but seems the only way I can post a pic these days. Bought a 4' Super Truss from Tweedys. Bought a used Zieman MC carrier. Cut the carrier part off the stinger and re welded it to the TOP of the ST. Torklift 4' ST is rated at 600/6000. Bike weighs 250, boat tongue 190. Good to go.
I have a yamaha Zuma, that's what I'd do if I were in your shoes, use my trusty Superhitch and SuperTruss. I have the older 50cc 2-stroke. I'm actually selling it. My only problem with also bringing a trailer, I'm already needing the 48" extension for the trailer. No room to add on a bike rail.
But if I'm already towing the trailer, I'd just stick the zuma in the trailer.
Note in the pics I added a couple of eye-bolts to the camper jack brackets for a little added stability with straps. This is the Harbor Freight motor bike rack---
Pure sinewave inverters w/remote. I personally have had 3, and still use 2 of the 3.
I had the Xantrex Prosine 2.0 charger/inverter combo in my TC. I replaced it with the Magnum 3,000 Hybrid inverter /charger combo because of it's ability to pair with a Honda Generator and provide surge power from battery to help the Honda. It also has an auto-switch to battery in case the shore power goes out or the genny runs out of gas.
I also have the Xantrex Prosine 1800 in my Wells Cargo trailer backed up with 3 of it's own AGM batteries on 600 watts solar.
But, that being said....
I feel for the money vs. your need, the Xantrex Prosine 1000 should be your choice, for multiple reasons--
* Pure sinewave of course - you can run an electric blanket all night...;-)--and they don't actually draw much. Modified sinewave inverters are not compatible with electric blankets. I've tried.
* Coffee makers generally draw 900 watts. Awful nice to just flip a switch and make a pot. RV Microwaves may or may not run off of it, some are 900, some are 1,100.
* Very easy to wire, and a couple different options for the remote on/off - a simple switch or a switch with LCD volt/amp draw status.
* Good warranty - 2 years P&L
* US Company and support - Elkhart Indiana, the home planet for the RV industry.
I've done a LOT of tinkering with various inverters and inverter/chargers over the years. If money were no object I would unequivocally say get a Magnum - Made in the USA, Everett WA. Great people to meet and talk to, and a great product. But my Magnum 3,000 ran about $1,800.
I wanted to see your places and toys, and share some of my favorite places here in the PNW. I'm particular to trips to either play in the sand, or go site seeing on Oregon coast.
Beverly Dunes just off I-90 near the Columbia River. A great little place to go sand riding in Washington--
St Anthony's Dunes in SE Idaho near the Grand Teitons --
My other toy I take when I want to go on a sight seeing base camp/exploring trip--
A little town about midway down the Oregon coast called Yachats, lots of great coastal sightseeing--
Here's a trip report I did for a CG in the north Idaho Rockies called Lost Moose CG. Loved the place, we've rented out the entire CG again for this June.
I have to say, like that old guy on those beer commercials... "I don't normally stay at campgrounds, but when I do, I stay at Lost Moose Campground."
I REALLY debated whether or not to write this, because I LOVED the place, and didn't want everyone flooding it! If you're into casual offroad riding, this place is for you. You can ride your quad/Side by Side anywhere except the Interstate - through towns, logging roads, we even went bar-hopping on quads!
It's a really small privately owned campground off I-90, south of the bustling metropolis of Cataldo (one bar, post office, no gas station or grocery store, that's it). Due south of I90 8 miles, first 2 are paved, the other 6 are the dustiest logging road you've ever gone down.
But it's worth it.
Fred and Sharon own the place, he's retired ID DOT. They run it with thier son and his wife (sorry, forgot their names). Being retired ID DOT - he keeps the road and and driveway completely dust-free with a water truck twice a day. You'd never know you were camping off a dirt road. insects - In a week I think I counted 6 mosquitoes. Flies and bees were normal for the woods.
The place was IMMACULATE. Fred takes great care of the landscaping. There's only like 15 spots. Spots range in size from TC-only size to full 42 foot Toyhauler. We had 8 rigs total, and every size, shape and size.
Here I am hitched up ready to go....
Coming east on I-90 going down into the Columbia River Gorge at Vantage. I didn't take many pics of the drive because I was, well, driving...
Over the river and through the woods...
Big camping spaces...
Set up for night#1
Next morning, beautiful weather.
My co-pilot. And don't be hatin' on the speakers... we had the entire campground for our group and our group alone. Country music, BBQ, and campfire was the SOP for the week. Fred and Sharon (owners) loved it!
First trail ride -- up to Baldy Peak, a stop at Crystal Lake Trailhead.
Baldy Peak. 47.3638 -116.411695
Next day, another ride through the woods
And what my buddy's black, orange and white RZR looked like....
Next day, lunch and bar hoppin' into town on the quads. The Mission Inn at Cataldo - great burgers, cute waitresses!
Next stop, King's Inn, bartender said it was built in 1874.
A couple locals...
Last bar stop, Pioneer Lodge in Wallace ID.
My PLANB is I carry my 2KW HOnda.....As long as I have some gasoline I am pretty much covered for those bad battery days....
I have 10 batteries (2 in the truck, 5 in the TC, 3 in "The Shotwagon"), 600watts solar, and 2 Honda 2K's. The Magnum Converter/Inverter has a built in 125amp charger. It will single-handedly max out one Honda. Sounds like a lot, but with 10 batteries, that's only 12 amps charge per battery.
Gotta keep the whiskey chilled and the icemaker goin.
Now, granted, i have the diesel, but I thought my experience may have relevance.
I had to replaced my tranny not long after I did a bunch of simple power mods.... The original tranny was known to be the achille's heal of the 7.3's. I replaced it with what was at the time, one of the best reviewed trannies I could get, a Jasper Transmission Monsterbox.
First thing I noticed was firmer, harder shifts. I called Jasper, and they said this was intentional due to a firmer shift kit.
This was 11-ish years ago, never have had a single problem with it since, and I've always hauled heavy.
If I may suggest....
We as TC'ers are not cheap, we have to be more efficient than our larger Class C/Class A/5'er brothern. We have an extremely limited amount of space, whether it's storage space, or in this case, roof space.
An MPPT controller is far more efficient than a PWM controller. On a panel that is rated @ 20v or more, an MPPT controller will give you roughly 50% or more charging amperage than a PWM. that's the same as buying a panel that takes up 50% more roof space.
I found this very good name brand on Amazon which includes an MPPT controller:
Renogy 100watt with MPPT Controller
I'm an electrical engineer by day, TC'er by weekend. I did this write up a while back as to the what's and why's of an MPPT vs. PWM controller on this thread.
First, you have to understand what "Watts" actually is. It is a simple math equation, not a direct measurement -
Watts = Voltage x Amperage. or the age old P=IxE.
Also worth noting, this conversion can be used for running your microwave off a 12v inverter. (There's other formulas involving watts, but lets use this one for now). If you buy a watt-meter, like a Kill-O-Watt, it's measuring volts and amps, then displaying the two multiplied.
Let's do a real -world example--
You want 200 watts solar. You found a great deal on a 200w panel, it's voltage is 20 volts, it's output current is 10amps, hence 200 watts.
**Here's the problem**
Sure, it's 200 watts, but it's output current is 10 amps. A PWM controller will NEVER give you more than those 10 amps - and that's in a perfect lab-controlled world. Real world, probably 8.5-9amps, but for now, we'll say 10.
Pulse Width Modulation is nothing more than a fancy high speed on-off switch - that's how it regulates charge - on or off pulses, at a very high speed, varying in duty cycle. Dead battery - no pulses, full on duty cycle, 10 amps. Closer to full battery, the charge pulses become shorter in time, until finally you go into float mode with just very short pulses.
**Here's where MPPT comes in**
Your 200 watt panel puts out 10 amps @ 20v. MPPT does a voltage step down/amperage step up conversion. It drops 20v to 14.4, and by doing so, amperage gets converted UP to 13.8amps (in a mathematically perfect controller anyway.)
As the battery voltage comes up, the charge is of course regulated like your 12v converter until it finally goes into trickle charge mode.
**So - the moral of the story**
If you're going to go PWM - you need a LOW VOLTAGE panel.
Advantage to low-voltage panel--
* can use a much cheaper PWN controller
* Needs larger wire to handle full current of panel and minimize loss to due to wire resistance.
* Needs much more sunlight before it attains charge because you must get the panel voltage over 14 before it will actually charge.
**If you're going to go MPPT, you need high voltage panels, or panels wired in series.
Advantage to high voltage panels--
*Charging will start at a much lower light level - if you use 46volt panels in series, 92vmax, it takes very little light to make 92v of solar to cross over 14v and begin charging.
*Much smaller wire needed - high voltage panels are low in amperage, high in voltage, less loss due to wire resistance.
* needs a more expensive MPPT controller
* Be careful installing them, install them inside a garage, not outdoors. 46Vdc can bite you, ask me how I know.
Not a great deal for $180. It includes a PWM controller rather than a MPPT, and that panel puts out O/C over 21 volts, and just barely over 5 amps under perfect conditions.
You can't really think of it as "If I'm at 12 volts, how long will it take to charge?". It's more along the lines of how many Amp-Hours did you draw vs at what rate of AH can you put it back. Without a MPPT controller, you'll only ever get a max of 5amps charge from that panel. With an MPPT controller that same panel would put out 8-ish amps of charge (again, under perfect conditions).
I have two Honda 2000's. I ran across this today, clearly china-Honda knock-offs, they look identical.
Generac used to be a good name brand, so i don't know why they'd be cloning Honda's, but I tell ya, for $350 for a Honda 2k knock off, I'd be tempted to try one.
Generac Honda knock off
I love having my camper and truck covered....
Everything I have gets garaged. This just took a while to finally get here.
JimH can tell ya... We're here in the Pacific NW... We may not get those huge Dallas flood downpours, it just rains here all the time. If it's not covered, it gets ruined.
So I finally got my TC storage door put on, officially making it done. Had to get it framed in, and then of course have it installed. It's 14x24, and weighs in at 800lbs. The framing never got done last year because I was having a problem finding the door size I wanted. Once I found a commercial door vendor, we framed it in.
Framing involved relocating / replacing one of the overhead beams. Used my trusty new tractor and winch on my side by side with a tackle block up top. The guy in the picture is my contractor who has done **excellent** work for me on other projects, he handled all the framing and pre-work.
So here's the door and commercial hoist....
The guys putting the door in rented a scissor lift. I took the liberty of borrowing it the night they left it to run extra lights and a dedicated circuit for the opener.
Clearance to the header beam is 14', clearance to the trusses is 15'.
So now is where the test begins - how much clearance do I have during loading/unloading of the TC. I got up on the scissor lift with the TC jack remote. I lifted the TC higher than I ever would for normal loading/unloading. I still had about 8-10 inches. It's kinda hard to tell from the pics. The opener bracket is no where near the TC, it is in the middle of the door, but in the pic it looks like it's hitting the tv antenna.
The camper bottom/floor is actually up above the truck bed rails - again, higher than I would ever normally load/unload.
And here we are - completely garaged in..... FINALLY!! And last will be paint. Getting the house and shop painted next week.
I have a longer camper than you, but my 2 peso's worth would be to get a longer one than you need. If you think you need 24, go 36.
The reason - Longer extension will move the trailer farther back from the TC. It will help tremendously when it comes to turning radius, backing up, jack-knifing, and just over all pucker-factor.
Was thinking of the rancho"s 9000 xl
I have those on my dually, I love 'em. I don't really touch the fronts, but the rears make a huge difference empty vs. loaded. I turn them all the way up to 10 loaded, and down to 1 empty.
I can sure tell when I've pulled out and forgot to adjust them -- loaded set @1 it floats like a tuna troller, and empty set to 10 then hitting a speed bump requires a chiropractic adjustment.
I'm a huge fan of the Torklift Stableloads. No airbags to mess with, easy to install, and won't affect your empty ride.
They simply engage your existing overload springs sooner, making them do a little more of the work. Air bags can leak or pop.
I have an EXTREMELY heavy camper and trailer, I'm running these instead of bags. Never had a problem.
Xantrex Prosine2K invertor I went with had a much better charger built into it.
I had that same one, great inverter/converter/charger.
Question for the OP--
Not having seen your TC, is relocating the converter to some storage cabinet where you would hear it less be an option?
What about replacing it with a combination inverter/converter/charger like the Prosine 2.0 or the one I have, the Magnum 3kw.
Magnum 3kw inverter-charger