So, came back from a 10-day trip last week, just been busy with work and home stuff to write this up, but thought I would share this.
I usually don't bother taking the TC o the truck on short trips, but on longer trips I do. In this case, 10 days on the Or-E-Gun coast, took it off.
I got these Torklift Wobblestoppers last year, but can't say enough about these things if you take your TC off. Before these things, I would bring short collapsible saw-horses to help stabilize when off-truck camping. These things make the TC rock-solid--even on my big heavy TC.
This is one of those "I wish I could go" type of things, but wow, they're about as far from me as you can get via dry land.
I heard every major TC vendor will be there, I got an email saying Torklift is going all the way from here in PNW to there giving away freebees and coopins (Coopins - A subtle nod to Ron White). Love to get my hands on some of those coopins!
I'd love to see a trip report from someone who's going. It is being touted as the 'The Worlds Largest RV Show"...Sept. 14-18
So... I'm coming back from a 10 day trip to the Oregon coast today, driving along happily...cruise set.. Freebird goin on the ole' Victrola.... And all my indicators go dark. The gauges are all still working, but they're all dark. NAV is black... that center digital display between the tach and speedo is black. Grrr...
So I turn the headlights off... then back on... nothing.
Play with the dimmer, all the way up and the cab light came on, and then I could just barely see some back light. Grrr.... What's going on???
So I continue down the road. Pull into a gas station to fuel up. I grab my trusty Seahawks hat from the dash....BOOM, all the lights come on.
My baseball cap had covered up the day/night sensor.
And when you all quit laughing, you can move onto the next post......
How much fun is involved in replacing the large rubber seal/flap that seals your slide when it's open?
I just noticed today at the top of one of those it's beginning to tear. It has about 2" at the top that have started to come apart.
Would one of you explain to ignorant me the significance of a positive ground?
Glad to know I am not the only one!
Positive ground harkins back to the earliest days of of the telegraph and telephone systems, later adopted by the automobile through the 50's or so depending on the make. Basically, the positive post of the battery is connected to the chassis rather than the negative.
It is still used today in my industry. Every cell phone tower you use to talk through is positive ground, and typically runs off -24 or -48vdc. They do that because...well, 'that's how we've always done it'.
What does this mean for this controller? Can you use that controller? Yes. But... You have to make sure you do not mount it or the panels directly to any metal framing on your TC. the casings would all be 'hot' in respect to the chassis.
Would I do it? Meh... Probably not, simply because if you forget one day, or sell the rig, it could be a problem later.
One thing to note, the controller is positive ground. Although for $153 is a good price for just the panel itself.
I saw that, but I read that as the free upgrade is positive ground. The one included is not ---
"Upgrade PWM 30A Charge Controller to PWM 30A LCD Charge Controller for free. This is a Positive Ground Charge Controller. "
I suppose a call or email to the seller would be in order.
I'm poking around the interweb this evening looking to add more power to my solar, but ended up finding this...
This is factory direct kit from Renogy, a pretty decent name brand in the solar world on Ebay. Although it does come with a PWM controller and not an MPPT, it's still a great buy. the controller can handle up to 30amps, so 3 panels if you needed to upgrade.
100 watt panel, controller, and free shipping, $153.
100w Solar kit on Ebay
**advertising disclaimer, I am not affiliated with Renogy or Ebay.... Just thought it was a good deal worth passing on.
Be sure to get MELLO MIKE's blessings... He runs with lots of Truck Campers with long extensions...
I always thought this one was neat from his blog page showing a long extended hitch with chains to make it stable..
That is a Superhitch. Use you're browser's zoom function and you can clearly see that is a SuperTruss, and the Superhitch name on the right.
Any time this question comes up, I post this. PLEASE read this and understand - if you put an extension on a hitch NOT SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED for one, you run a very high risk of failure.
This is my true story----
I *think* I'm safe to say I haul one of the biggest/heaviest combo's on the TC forum. 2-slide Eagle Cap@~6800lbs, plus a 26' Wells Cargo 10k trailer. In my years, I've spent a lot of time and money to get my rig where it's at.
My white knuckle experience came doing exactly what you're referring to. Years ago, I had an F250, hauling an average TC at the time, and a 20' ski boat ski boat @about 4500lbs. I had a 2 foot extension on a Reese Class V hitch. Didn't think I was doing anything wrong at the time.
Went in to Torklift one day in Kent to buy some rear tie downs. They inspected my truck, said sure, and they'd even install them for free.
20 minutes later, they came and grabbed me and said they refused to work on my truck.
The hitch extension had made the hitch fail. There was a large crack running down the passenger's side mount bolts to the frame.
I turned white... One good hard bump and I could've had the hitch fall right out from under the truck. I immediately had them put on a SuperHitch and haven't looked back since.
The moral of my TRUE story - DO NOT guess, estimate, or figure you can safely run a hitch extension. Only a Superhitch is engineered and DOT approved to run a hitch extension.
....I now step off my soap box.
Have you considered taking the tank out and replacing the factory tank with a Titan tank? I know for my truck they make a 68gallon tank.
Amazon has the one that fits mine for $1200 w/free shpg. Would free up your bed space for more than just a TC too... I know that 68 gallons of fuel will go farther than my bladder or butt will go.
A lot of camera DVR recorders use a 110v to 12v converter, and the cameras are also powered by 12vdc. I've installed several in houses. So...you should be able to connect them directly to the 12v system rather than the 110v just to then have to convert back down to 12v. I had a spare security cam kicking around and used it as a backup camera on my previous truck for several years...worked fine.
On analog systems, you can use pretty much any camera you want, so long as the resolution of the recorder is higher than the camera plugged into it. Digital/IP based systems would be cost prohibitive to use in an RV.
The cameras draw extremely little amperage, 4 cameras can run off of a 2amp wall wart even with infrared LEDs. As I recall, the last recorder I put in had a 3amp 12v converter, so 5 amps total if you wanted the whole works. Normally, that's not much, but if you're boondocking off batteries, 5amps all night long can wear down batteries.
I have a 11.5 foot Bigfoot TC and a 19 foot Alpenlite 5th wheel
A 19' five'r?? My TC is bigger than that! :B (sorry Wayne...)
I had two for quite a while, a 42' Cyclone Toyhauler, and at that time, an AF1140. There were just places I flat out couldn't take a 42'TH, and if I just wanted to go somewhere to camp, having the option to switch to the AF was great.
Now, I have the EC camper in my sig with the big cargo trailer, but I find myself wandering back over to the Toyhauler forums poking around for another one.
I'm convinced the F450 pickup has a neutered suspension to increase ride quality.
Grrr... right again.
For having a 14k rear axle, it has pathetic springs when it comes to being loaded, but it rides pretty decent empty. I didn't want to put super huge heavy spring packs under it and have it ride like a tank empty. So I've done the selectable lower Stableloads, uppers, and finally airbags. This way I can ratchet out the lower stable loads, let the air out of the bags, and I still have a pretty decent ride when empty.
I love the Stableloads, but alone they couldn't make up for the stock spring's inadequacies when I carry everything, so I need those + 80lbs of air to sit level as in the pic in my sig.
Either make will be 4500-5000 lbs dry once optioned. Once you add your gear and fluids expect to be 6000+ lbs. You may want to reconsider going with a Class 3 DRW and look at a Class 4 or 5 DRW truck.
Why is Bedlam always right??
So yes - I have an Eagle Cap 1160. An F350DRW just isn't going to cut it.
I **had** a heavily modified F350 Dually--F550 springs, StableLoads, Roadmaster swaybars, rancho9000 shocks...etc--pretty much everything you could do to an F350DRW to haul a TC. I had to get a newer F450, it just couldn't do it. My TC is over 6,500lbs loaded---then add the tongue weight of any trailer you want to haul and it's just too much for an F350. Rear axle weight was 11,000, and the Dana 80 in it is rated at 10k. Tires were rated at 2,730lbs each, and I was dead-nutz on their absolute max weight capacity.
I had multiple tire failures due to weight, and I just found out from the person who bought my truck(my uncle) it had a cracked rear outer OEM rim.
I LOVE my new (to me) 2015 F450 - Dana110 rear end is rated at 14k Lbs, and 19.5s stock. Much more stable, and tons of power.
Be VERY cautious buying F450's - 2011-2014 use the Dana80 and 17's and therefore have absolutely no TC carrying advantage over an F350DRW. 2008-2010, and 2015-2017 use Dana110 and 19.5's.
Also worth noting - you're buying a TC about as far as you possibly can from the Mfg's. Host in made in Oregon, Eagle Cap in Yakima, WA.
I used to have a Cyclone 4012 42' TH, loved it, but needs changed and I went back to a truck-camper and cargo-trailer combo. My TH was your standard 3-slide, but had an actual separated living room and kitchen. One slide was a sofa sectional, the other was a loveseat. That was what I really liked about it - the "living room feel". Your couch wasn't staring into the kitchen.
Well...needs (ok, wants) now having me looking at TH's again. I recently saw an ad for two slightly different 2017 KZ's, one had a 20 foot 'convertible' garage--the garage could convert the master bedroom to more garage space if needed. The other, a standard 12 garage, but what set these apart for me was the upstairs living room arrangement.
Are there any other TH's with an upstairs living room?
PS--don't tell the truck camper guys I'm over here asking... :)
I think you are likely making this harder than it needs to be
X2... Yer really overthinkin this... Get a long bed truck, put a camper in. Put beer in camper. Tie it down with Torklift Tiedowns. Put dog in truck. Leave.
OP -- I get the impression from your last line you have neither the truck or TC yet. If that's the case, go out and find the TC you love, then get the appropriate truck to haul it. If it sags in the rear, it has little to due with COG, you have to add spring capacity....within reason. Don't under-truck it and get a Host Mammoth and an F150.
If you go the other route... Get a truck first, you may find a bigger camper than the truck can haul.
On my former '01 F350 DRW I had BFG All Terrains. They did great until I got the TC in my sig. That put the weight capacity at almost 100% of the posted weight rating of the tires, then I started having issues. Two rears bubbled, but were replaced for free by Discount Tire. Previous to my Eagle Cap I had an AF 1150, never had a problem. They had a good mix of offroad traction and on-road noise.