Thanks for the replies! I've read of the importance of leveling the fridge for proper operation but not that running it out of level might shorten it's life. Good to know. I always level the trailer anyway when I park it, just for proper appearance.
I looked around the site pretty thoroughly and tried searching but have come up empty on this subject and I ask for your kind help.
I've had two RV fridges die on me, one I'd left running during storage and the other I'd shut down, so I'm a bit leery about which is considered best.
Presently the RV fridge in my converted cargo is a 3 way salvaged from a wrecked truck camper, an older model Dometic with the manual peizo sparked pilot light and 120 AC and 12 volt DC heaters. It works very well and fits the cabinetry and plumbing I made for it so I don't want it to die like the others, if I can help it.
What do the experts think is best for wintering and storage, leave the fridge on active 120 volt service, or shut it down between use?
You can give a quick blast of starting fluid with the air cleaner cover removed and see if it will fire up.
Starting fluid is not a good idea! It will wash all the lube off the cylinder walls faster than any solvent. It's only meant for diesel engines that have so little compression they can't make enough heat to fire on a cold day. Even then it's hard on a big diesel. In a little gas engine...
If a gas engine has all the things a gas engine needs in order to run, it'll start. A little prime with gas, sure. Starting fluid, no. Please don't.
For an experiment take an oily piece of metal and hit it with the starting fluid. It'll be squeaky clean in no time at all, right to the metal pores.
I use a can of the stuff to remove oils from machining processes and even fingerprints. Works better than anything else, even spray brake cleaner is no match for it.
Sorry to be all insistent about this topic but that stuff is nasty on a motor.
I'm afraid I did something bad.
My Champion 2000i has been sitting all winter.
I went to pull it out and start it up this weekend, and can't get it to fire. I didn't drain it, or add stabil last fall, it just got grabbed with the rest of the camping supplies and tossed in the garage.
What do I need to do to get it running? Thanks.
I did that too. Drain the tank, drain the carb via taking the float bowl off, replace, fill with fresh gas, take the plug out and yank it over plenty, replace plug and start, full choke.
Lots on ebay, cheaper than this if you look
There have been a few debates on this remarkable thread, about what a 2000 will run and what it won't run. This is a bit of a parlour trick and not something I expect the generator to tolerate in my normal camping operation but here goes anyway. My Champion 2000 inverter, as it runs both a 5300 BTU air conditioner and a microwave!
You can see that the voltage drops to 100 briefly (neat little outlet powered voltmeter off eBay, $7.00, shipped!) when the A/C cycles on and you hear the generator lean into the load. She takes it in her stride. :)
140 ft. Yes it surprized me but it does it. For minutes on end too, until the single glass of water I'd put in the microwave for a load started to boil over. The microwave spooled up a bit slower than it does on line current but not much slower. Seemed to have full output. I didn't have my standard wall plug-in voltmeter at that time to monitor voltage drop (7$ on eBay!) but it didn't appear strained.
I can run my 5500 BTU air conditioner AND my 1000 watt microwave oven simultaneously, with my Champion 2000 watt inverter! Caveats: The generator must be fully warmed up, the air conditioner must have cycled on first and then power up the microwave, and understand that the generator will be running in its highest RPM step if its in Economy mode, but yes the little thing will handle it.
I'll take a video if necessary for unbelievers, but it will have to be later after it warms up some around these parts, for the A/C compressor to cycle on.