Go big with wire gauge from panels to controller, run as short a fat set of wires to batteries as possible, and let the EE's worry about it when it comes to huge solar panel systems, as for most of us RV'ers, it amounts to mouse nuts of gains in amps or voltage, over time.
Good theoretical exercise, not so good in real world applications. Scaling up or down changes everything.
14.8V at 25C or 75F. See a battery manufacturers recommendations for temperature corrected charge voltages, if you want the absolute correct answer. I camp in temperate regions, not too hot, or not too cold, in my 3 season travel trailer. 14.8V is near enough for me in most all situations. Might be light on a cold morning, but that's the whole idea, charge first thing in the morning, and temperature is less likely to be an issue on that 14.8V recommendation.
They must make them in a few different configurations: T-1275
Another option, perhaps without the modifications, if the terminal positions for + and - are in the correct locations.
Trojan 30 model 130AH
Do you stay out of Home Depot, Lowes, Target, K-Mart, Meijer's in Michigan, etc.?
HD not so much. Lowes is owned by WM, target no, k-mart stores are gone. Meijers was the last store to have mostly USA products but do not go there often.
WM has the largest impact, there are many others on my list but then that is my list of business' that are not employee friendly or just horrible with constant threats to their employees.
Lowes owned by WMT, you're nuts. Lowes is owned by Lowes.
Get your facts right WM owns the most shares in Lowes and the tother way lowes own most shares in WM. FACT!Just because you say it is a fact, doesn't make it so. There are no individuals who own a large percentage of both Walmart and Lowes stock. As a matter of fact (from Morningstar) the only individuals who own 5% or more of Walmart are members of the Walton Family and no individual owns 5% or more of Lowes stock. The largest non-individual holders of both companies are Mutual funds like Vanguard, Blackrock and T Rowe Price, meaning there are millions of individual owners of those blocks of stock and only Vanguard has a 5% or greater share of stock in either of those companies. Lowes and Walmart are about as separate as entities can be.
Okay, please take note, the way corporations operate, and how the legal definition of subsideries come into play.
First of all, Lowes is not owned by Walmart Assocaites INC.
However Lowes is owned by the Walton Family.
The daughter is the primary operator of the Lowes stores.
Although they keep the Lowes assets seperate, it is indeed owned by the same family.
Not only can this be seen by building designs, and architecture, but whenever Walmart paints their stores, or changes it's colors, Lowes follow suit.
So for those that think they know that Lowes isn't owned by Walmart, has an enlightenment to be learned.
They have no interest in letting their employees know what they own, no matter how long you have worked for their company.
If anyone knows, how, and has followed the Walmart history of expansion, you will notice how they acquire assets via acquisitions.
It usually starts with Walmart purchasing a minority stake, usually around 42-47% of ownership,(just enough to be able to be a major share holder, and thus have a board position), they then in a few years will increase their holdings of that company, and in the majority of instances, they become whole ownership.
You are welcome to start and own your own business and hire and fire whoever you want, and pay the wages you want. But until you own a business, you are out of line. If you don't wish to shop at WalMart or Lowes, so be it. If you don't want to overnight there, so be it. But you are so faaaaar out there in left field, it's not funny. It's my belief the majority of folks here want you to go away, for infringing on their beliefs to park at these stores overnight and give them their business. It's not for you to say where any of us should or should not park overnight in our RV's, or that all WalMarts should be banned. Perhaps you should be banned instead.
I own WalMart stock and I own Vanguard mutual funds. If people don't like the wages paid by WalMart, they are welcome to seek employment elsewhere, no one is holding a gun to their head to stay there, or not search for other opportunities of employment, or to start their own business. No one owes you, or anyone a job. That's the liberal fallacy. Go start and run your own business if you don't like working for someone else.
"Touch my stuff...and I'll kill 'ya"-lol
If you had access problems, maybe now is the time to get that all straightened out. I see that the Trojan 1275 has the caps to the cells in a "V". Maybe that would help. If not, maybe there is a better place to park the battery. Sorry, don't mean to reinvent the wheel here, but I've actually had a positive battery terminal come in contact with the hood of a car. Blew the whole top off like a giant took an axe to it. The battery still functioned but acid dripping was an issue.
The T-1275 Plus has individual flip up caps, one at a time.
BCI group L16. So it's 15.73" sue me.
"EXPECTED LIFE VS. TEMPERATURE - Chemical reactions internal to the battery are driven by voltage and temperature. The higher the battery temperature, the faster chemical reactions will occur. While higher temperatures can provide improved discharge performance the increased rate of chemical reactions will result in a corresponding loss of battery life. As a rule of thumb, for every 10°C increase in temperature the reaction rate doubles. Thus, a month of operation at 35°C is equivalent in battery life to two months at 25°C. Heat is an enemy of all lead acid batteries, FLA, AGM and gel alike and even small increases in temperature will have a major influence on battery life."
-Have issues with the above paragraph?
Trojan Battery will be happy to discuss them with you. The quote marks were inserted for a reason.
Lighten up, Frances. I've no experience with 15" or 15.75" batteries, just trying to learn. Never measured my T-1275's, just know they feel pretty damn close in weight to a 90 or 100# sack of cement.
The goal is to minimize activity while maintaining fully charged state. Not 99% nor 101%.
Then to mix electrolyte. But mixing electrolyte correctly requires an adjustable time mechanism. Car jar batteries will mix electrolyte faster than GC batteries, and much faster than 15" jar batteries.
When a temperature corrected ACCURATE hydrometer reading indicates all cells have reverted 100% the maintenance amperage will be a mere few milliamps, of course this is a range. At -40C float maintenance can be as much as an ampere per 100 amp hour capacity depending on battery chemistry.
Calcium/calcium microwave tower battery banks have such sophisticated battery chargers. A multi-thousand amp hour battery bank justifies the cost of a sophisticated charger. A tower can sit for years without the batteries being called upon to do their duty. As I understand it the newer technology allows the tower to communicate the status (VA) of it's battery bank charger.
But common sense has to dictate to the user whether or not a sophisticated maintenance float charger is warranted. Batteries that sit six-months untended definitely qualify. But a rig that sees perhaps 15-20 days a month use would be challenging to qualify. The ratio of valid electro-chemical activity to invalid electro-chemical activity (kWh) would be absurdly unequal.
What is your 15" jar battery in reference to?
The best of fortune in your endevours. The 31 gave it's all. I'd like to read your perception of the characteristics between both batteries. See if your battery's stars and planets align themself with Niner's stories about his 1275. Trends & Tendencies. TT is a remarkable tool.
That's not a fair comparison. My T-1275s were beat up badly upon receiving them. Probably over 500 recharge cycles on them at a Golf Course, then sat dishcharged with a SG of 1.200 to 1.230 for 2 or 3 months before being gifted to me, and I gave them some tough love.
Landy's will be brand new, I suspect. I know I have not been kind to mine trying to give them 15.0V off the solar panel, versus 14.8V, but I like getting those last few percentage points close to 100% SOC daily. I suspect I may shorten their lives a few days or a few weeks or a few months doing so, but I don't use mine day in and day out.
It just makes me feel better knowing the battery bank tank is full before the sun stops giving me free juice and the electrical consumption gets high after dark, when out boondocking. I'm not losing water yet on a regular basis charging this way, so I take that as a good sign. Drawing 35 to 50 amps each night with 75 amps available isn't drawing the T-1275 down that far each charge cycle, so that's helping me a lot too.
The EZ lubes on my 21 ft TT tandem axle are spring loaded cups that basically are a grease reservoir under pressure, pushing grease at all times towards the back side of the axles, and the seals there. You can watch the cup move outwards radially towards the grease gun as you pump them up, taking up the spare spring space. I fill mine with the grease gun every couple of years. I managed about 20,000 miles from when bought new to just this last April when I hit them for the first time with the grease gun.
How far do you drive on your car bearings without repacking them with grease? Same principle.
That Video has a serious April feeling to it Specifically the 1st of April.
I have seen many claims in the past where it only takes an associates in applied science to see through the fakery.. And as it happens.. I have one of those.
The inside race is constant diameter so the ball rolls on it at a constant speed.
The grooves in the outside race vary the effective diameter acting on the balls which produces the speed differential between the balls.
I have an associates in hype and terminology (AssHat).
Glad I read that tonight, that would have been coffee blown on the keyboard first thing in the morning.
With that Interstate battery, eventually, you might want to upgrade to a charge controller that puts out more than 14.4V to your Interstate group 24 battery. Something along the lines of 14.8-15.0v at the battery terminals.
I may not have been detailed or clear enough in my orginal post. I did not turn off the inverter and I have no idea if my AC has a hard start capacitor.
Converter, not inverter.
To see if your A/C is equipped with a hard start cap just remove the top shroud and look. ;)
Here are 4 pics of a Supco SPP6 I just added to my own Dometic Brisk II.
Ambient temp was approx 73 degrees. Once the AC was on and I had the lights on, fridges on,etc. I left the AC fan running but turned off the compressor. I then turned it back on. The generator stumbled for a brief moment but smoothed right out. I did it 2-3 more times with the same result. Quite frankly, I never expect to put that kind of load on it.
Wait 'til ambient temp is in the 90s, throw in some elevation, then you'll know what a heavy load really is. :E
Ordered one Suppco SPP6 today for my Dometic, hope it helps save the windings.
No idea what start capacitor is in my 13.5K Dometic. I pair a couple of Honda Eu2000i's which are manageable in weight, plug in, and don't worry about it too much, they do fine just loafing in eco mode.
More likely, I set up at a camp in elevation such that that AC is not necessary. Actually, with all the wind, I'd be happy without the awning and the AC unit on my travel trailer.
We use our motohome an average of a hundred days each year.
Boondock or hook-ups? There is a distinct difference in terms of battery life.... and other things that don't pertain to this thread.
The post was about WFCO. While I never heard about it before getting my motor -home. It has worked fine since 2003. No reason to knock it.
Since my MH is rarely on shorepower I check batteries for voltage and clamp -on meter for AMPS. Specific gravity checks if needed. I know my systems are working because I check each trip.
I speak only for myself, or maybe for a few others around here, but after boondocking on first 2 separate one week trips, in my mind, I renamed the WFCO company that makes those to WTF Co.
As in WTF were they thinking bulk charge mode is on a charge controller, when industry standard is 14.4 to 14.8V in a bulk mode that actually works.
I've never seen mine charge in bulk mode, 14.8V or charge at above 13.6-13.8V. All I've seen it do is sit in lame mode, sucking all my gas down through my Honda Generator, instead of actually quickly recharging my batteries. But hey, they are cheap, you get what you paid for.
Turn all those other devices on first, then try to start your 15,000 BTU unit AC. Because AC units and their compressor, which is the big start up draw, cycle on and off, and that's when you need the power, not turning the AC unit on first, and then adding in the rest of the stuff.