I think the explanation by LandYacht abut every 5 days is very close to my observations. For what ever reason every 5 to 7 days of consecutive 95 to 98% state of charge is not enough on an AGM. I say this because being on a 2 week trip, and doing only one as close to 100% full recharge after 7 days ( I was a little lazy on this) then another 7 days of camping caused me to pull the battery when I got home (like I always do) and recharge in the man cave with the MegaWatt with 14.4v and watch the RC charge indicator for voltage and take rate. What I thought would be done and down to 0.75 amp hours by just before lunch time was closer to being finished by the end of a football game at 4pm.
I can only speculate, but from my limited backround, lack of full 100% SOC recharges perhaps somehow increases the internal resistance inside the battery to get to full charge. It's like the sulfur grows adhesive powers if left on the plates too long, and gets more and more hardened and stubborn to remove and get back in to ionic liquid state. Or maybe it's a battery acid circulation problem inside the plates and the solution in the mats surrounding the plates that prevents anything but time to force the sulfur back into solution.
I don't know the why, I just know what I observe. It's no big deal to me at home if it takes 3 hours or 8 hours to get that .75 amp recharge rate. It is a big deal to me when boondocking.
I think you all also forget that internal construction of the battery and plate thickness will affect the "take" rate of amps at 14.4v for surplus telecom AGM or 14.8V for vented golf cart type batteries.
No matter what I do, with my 150 amp 12v Deka surplus telecom AGM battery that is acid rich and designed for a 10 year telecom cell site lifetime in emergency use, it does not seem to be able to take more that 20 amps at 14.4v setting from my MegaWatt 30 amp model, complete with amp hour readings and total amp hours taken on board. It's a far cry slower that my Trojan T-1275 that was also 150 amp hours. But it's plates are much, much thicker, and it delivers much less amperage surge than my T-1275 ever did. It just doesn't, by design, generate a lot of surge dishcharge capacity. And it doesn't have a lot of surge charge capacity either. Now lots of thinner plates in AGM will recharge much faster, more square inches of lead plate inside for chemistry to allow for quicker discharge and recharge rates. Know what you are buying before you plunk down for a surplus AGM, they all are not created equally. I bought a 10 year life surplus AGM battery with plates thick as the dickens, that doesn't put out a tremendous amount of surge amps. But it will last a long, long time, and it will last a lot of cycles, with those big, thick heavy lead plates in it. I zap charge it with a generator and a full 20 amps every 5 days, and solar panel does the rest at 8 to 9 amps /hour daily, when boondocking. It always goes home with me at the end of the trip and gets charged up fully, until it, being a 150amp hr battery, will take .75 amp hour charge rate at 14.4v. It does just fine in storage, very, very little loss of charge from month to month. Also of note, it does not active my magnetic brakes on the trailer very well, so I run another battery out back while driving, a flooded lead acid group 24, that will work my electric brakes.
Rome wasn't built in a day, either. But as an early adopter of the Megawatt PSU in 30 amp configuration, I am super glad that as a boondocker, I went this route for my battery. This is one of those things that is worth doing right, and worrying less about the condition of your RV batteries.
It's a non UL approved Electric Vehicle Station "controller" that runs on 120 - 240V. It requires a dedicated 50 amp 240v circuit and breaker, since it runs continuous load at 80% of the circuit breaker rating. That means either your electric car is plugged in, or your RV, off of a pedestal, not both.
It is made and sold by e-motorwerks. Clipper Creek is another quite popular brand of EVSE. Clipper Creek is UL rated and tested. Just in case you burn something down with it and claim it on insurance.
Most current electric vehicle cars in production now are capable of pulling 30 amps at 240V, a few, all Tesla battery and motor based (Older toyota RAV and MB B250) are built with 40 amp capable chargers on board.
This is an engineered system for cutting back amperage with a pilot signal making it safe to plug in and unplug your electric car with out sparking and frying the electric contacts. The pilot signal sends the charger on board a measurement that cuts back the amperage to something very very low on non existent, before the contacts at the plug disconnect.
I see no reason to even install this unit on your motor home... Get the portable model from Tesla with the J-1772 handle already installed , for all other electric vehicles.
mobile connector bundle
I saw at one point in time that Tesla was selling a J-1772 handled version of this at one time on their website, but I can't seem to find it today.
A 2015 e-Golf SEL owner that's been down this road.
Niner, thanks for that tip on using the panel to equalize -- I will give it a try after we get home from our next trip (which is coming up next week, depending on the weather).
If you have a philips screwdriver on you, you can do it on your camping trip, for a day, last day of the trip, no need to wait.
Profdant139... try this instead.... Wire your battery clamps to the input side of the charge controller from the solar panel, on the back of that portable solar panel. That should give you 17v with sunshine.... but you won't see that at the battery. Monitor the single battery until you see 16.0V at the terminal, on the fully disconnected battery. That should equalize one of the batteries. Swap in and perform the same procedure on the second battery. a 6 amp panel for one day in the sun won't boil off your electrolyte, not this time of year.
Scared the OP off. Profdant... go out and do equalize charges on your batteries, both of them, one at a time. About 5 amp hours constant until the voltage comes up fully to 16.00V, and then unplug. Old style manual battery chargers are capable of doing this. You do need to monitor the voltage at the terminals. Sometimes continuous recharge cycles only to 14.4V require you to pull the batteries, take them home in the garage and massage them with the full 16.0V equalize charge regime, to desulphate them. Group 31 batteries, due to their compromised car shape and size, are notorious for requiring this to be done frequently.
After 4 hours this morning at 14.8 battery was taking two amps the whole time. I suspended charging for the day because I had to leave. Is this As Good As It Gets? I will test SG and load test tomorrow.
No, that is not as good as it gets. What you probably need now is a desulphation charge regime. Do a Google search on it to see how to do one manually. It will require some close supervision, you will need to bring the battery up to a 16.0V state of charge to do so.
Better yet, start your own thread on how to do so.
For what it is worth, I have a portable panel where the controller is mounted under the panel, semi-protected from the rain. And then I put a stout small ziploc bag around the controller for extra protection -- it does not appear to retain heat.
So far, so good -- it has made it ok through several thunderstorms.
But a really waterproof unit would be better -- I would not have to worry at all.
Man, do I love that little 120 watt panel. We just spent a month of boondocking and never had to fire up the generator once! What a luxury to be able to turn on as many lights as we want. (All LED, and of course we turn them off when not needed.)
I told ya it would be a perfect fit for your usage!
Mex, what is the lowest voltage a MegaWatt will goto with a 500 OHM potentiometer?
I get that these will mostly be in thee 14.5v range where the losing some bottom end does will not matter, but I'd personally hate to not be able to go as low as the low 13's.
When I replaced the 1K ohm pot( measured at 973 ohms) with a 10 turn pot(1024 ohms) On my Meanwell, my minimum voltage dropped from 13.23 to 13.12v. More resistance = lower voltage, Zero resistance = max voltage.
I think I would lose the lower end of My MeanWell voltage range with a 500 ohm pot, making it useless floating flooded batteries, perhaps even too high for my AGM.
I feel the 10 turns pot 1K ohm is precise enough I can dial in voltage to 0.01v easily enough, and The Meanwell rsp-500-15 has a 6+ volt range of adjustment with a 1K ohm pot.
What is the max voltage of the Megawatt? Trojan now specs 16.2v equalization voltage.
Perhaps those wanting more than 15.5v for flooded battery Equalization, might want a Meanwell rsp-500-15. 40 amps, power factor corrected, and a 13.12 to 19.23 voltage range, but also twice the price of the Megawatt.
1k ohm with turn counter
You guys are almost funny.
I just went in the shop, didn't have any 1/4", but just hack sawed a 3/8 (3.75) rod in 8 seconds. Don't know the type, but zero magnetic. It was a pin out of a Motor Guide (Mercury) trolling motor.
I don't even own a hacksaw any more. I have an angle grinder just for cut off wheels, and another for grinding wheels. I have a sawzall for when the angle grinder won't work. (rare)
Same here. Chop saw, sawzall, or angle grinder.
You should know
Fcc regs are all about commercial communication interference
Not about home remote control low power receivers
Which are intentionally less sensitive and short range (so almost any kind of rf can block them)
Cree certifies it won't internet with your tv or your cellphoneThe claim they are Part.15 compliant. But regardless, they did what they did so I took the analyzer home and ran a bunch of tests from the coffee table, and another group of the same tests siting on the curb out front of the house, and you know how far that is..
I sent these pix to CREE and they ended up calling me with their engineering team as well as some folks in legal. They tried to run the call claiming they are 100% compliant and I must have other issues, until I mentioned sending those pix to my new field enforcement buddy at the FCC just to get his take on it all. The room got very quiet. In the end they sent me twice the number of lamps I originally bought that were just as bad, I sent the pix to the FCC, and took a trip to ALL for a bag of Ferrite coils.
Any of us here messing with LEDS are quite aware of the issues they can cause. I was just shocked that these commercially produced lamps were as sloppy as they were.
BTW- I'll see if I can find those again. You wont like what you see
Dude, you are a major sh*t stirrer. I haven't had problems with my Cree's yet, and they are all over the house, but I haven't installed one yet in my garage door opener. Maybe I should try a Phillips in there instead.
It will be very interesting watching this with FCC and how this plays out. I'm going to make a big batch of popcorn now, and subscribe to this thread. Your curiosity is killing you, Jeff.
Are you running the ferrite beads on the cords of all the appliances that are acting like antenna's of fussy rf devices? If so, are the ferrite beads working, stopping the rf interference? Model or size or specs of the ferrite beads?
What size, wattage and color are your "bad" lamps? You can text me instead, if you like.
Thanks I'll try putting a load on it and running it with seafoam for a few hours
I prefer to put in the right amount of seafoam on a full tank of absolutely fresh gasoline. Then I run it for an hour a day under heavy load. Carb needs the down time to soak and saturate with the seafoam mix in it for a few 23 hour periods, to do the job right. 2-4 days of that should do it.