Buy what you can afford, that makes you happy.
I've owned Honda CR250s, XR 350's, CRV EX-L's, 3 different Honda outboards, an 8 HP, a 15 HP and a 40 HP, a Honda Lawnmower, and I currently own 3 different Honda Generators. I've been happy with every single Honda product I've bought, zero regrets.
YMMV, sorry I've been brand loyal, but Honda has given me no reason to change brands. I'm satisfied with their product, and will pay the premium price... to me, I appreciate the value of good quality products.
I bought a used Honda EU2000I Companion for $600, ran it for 4 years, and sold it for $750.
Try that with your Champion. I've no idea what the used market is for them, or resale value.
BTW, at 1200 ft elev, temp 83 F, and fully charged batteries, my Kill-a-Watt meter says that my Dometic pulls 13.1 amps, with the 22" LCD TV going also, the charge controller drawing 1.2 amps with the A/C off. So that is about 11.9 amps by the fan and A/C running. It did not start the A/C the first attempt, overloaded the genny, but it did start it the second attempt. It will run on Eco mode, and the RPMS will drop I am estimating about 15, maybe 20%, once put in Eco mode. Took about an hour to pull the temp down to 70 F inside. Once started the Eu2000i is not working too hard if your batteries are in good shape. A little starting help from an inverter off your battery, say 1000w worth, would make things start a bit easier. So would temporarily pairing another Eu2000i or 1000i, just to get the A/C going.
BTW, I burned about 20% of a single tank of fuel doing this, two Eu2000I's will loaf in Eco mode running the A/C if paired, only revving up to handle A/C start up.
The Gen I ran the gas through today , with Techron and Stabil Red, 1 oz to 2.5 gallons, seems to run a lot stronger now with some serious running time on it. These generators just need to be run under a good strong load from time to time, to flush out the gunk in the jets in the carb, to keep them running healthy. YMMV...
Driving a UK car in the USA, the drivers side with steering wheel will still put you on the wrong side of the vehicle for operating in the USA. There's more considerations that just your voltage when operating a vehicle in the western hemisphere.
You can heat the end of the hose up by dipping it in a cup of boiling water. This makes it more pliable and easier to stuff into the hole.
Or just replace the 1 to 2" section of fuel line with new aquarium vinyl air hosing. Probably can get it at Home Depot.
Yeah, but if you search for solar panels on www.aliexpress.com it looks like every other rice paddy farmer in China is building them. Some still offer free shipping to the US, although most seem to have lowered their costs per panel and now price shipping separately. Looks like good old capitalistic competition and the sheer number of manufacturers will continue to drive prices down.
I just picked up a portable 120W folding panel with controller for $220 with free Fed-Ex shipping that arrived in less than a week.
I picked up a 120w folding panel at Solar BLVD for $190, in person. No worries about it getting broken in shipment. Totally worth the 70 mile drive one way down to Corona, CA.
I bought a new Honda Eu2000i in October of 2013, and according to my Kill-A-Watt meter, it is putting out 127.7V unloaded, and rarely drops below 121V with most anything I run on it, including my 13.5k Dometic AC. It just seems to be a really strong generator that's mounted on this motor. I run Sta-bil, and I do drain the carb bowl when not in use, choke the motor, and pull the starter rope 3 times to suck everything out of the jets, fuel wise. This has worked well forever, over 25 years, on my Honda Outboard motors too.
Every now and then when I fire up my PD, it is not in the 14v bulk stage. Thank God for the pendant override !
This... for when time doing other things is more important than having a charger take it's sweet time topping off batteries when you really need to get them filled back up with a charge. Sometimes at a slight loss of battery life or length of serviceability.
Move your arrow down one of those hoses, that's your float bowl.?? s
Stick your screwdriver in the bottom and turn the screw counter clockwise that will drain the fuel out of your float bowl.
Keep the switch turned to the "off" position, choke the carb, and pull on the starter handle 2 or 3 times to suck all the residual fuel out of the jets on the carb. Now she's ready for not having any fuel go bad in the carb bowl and jets while in short term storage.
I am guessing here, but I think once you hit your bulk voltage peak, this unit probably switches to 13.6 or 13.7 V maintenance charging for perhaps the rest of the day, I don't think it can be good to hit your battery every day with 14.8 to 15 volts, and hold it there. Once a week, sure, but day in, day out? Spike it up there, briefly, and then let it go into maintenance mode. Charge all your other electrical junk once your battery bank is topped off and the sun is still pretty high in the sky, and you have surplus solar capacity.
When I installed the Magnum 2012 in the coach I rewired the entire high current system: Batteries, shunt, central buss posts, solar, etc.
Everything was rewired with Royal Excellene 4/0, and 4ga for the solar. I bought a 12ton Mic-120 off of eBay and it's done an excellent job. Once done, all the crimps are covered with adhesive lined(weatherproof) heat shrink from Harbor Freight. It's a 100% solid seal, and its cheap.
As for the hammer vise, if someone wants to come by and take it, it's free. The two cables I did NOT change were the jumpers between the batteries, and I found one changing by 3/100v on a hard charge simply by wiggling the crimp that otherwise looks fine.
Just be careful that the crimper you choose has the die that can properly collapse a 4/0 lug. You will likely need to do a 2 stage crimp to get where you want to be.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r192/SCVJeff/Crimp-1.jpg height=500 width=500
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r192/SCVJeff/17debf1f.jpg height=500 width=500
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r192/SCVJeff/DSCN8739-1.jpg height=300 width=300
That lousy hammer vise crimp is on the bottom jumper since replaced. The lugs are covered too. This was a dress fitting.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r192/SCVJeff/DSCN8557_zps9e7f5925.jpg height=300 width=300
Free hammer vice? I'm local... 118 and balboa.
Now that's a good looking joint.
We may need to bend China 30's ears about doing newer software, with an update, so as to make the unit programmable for both bulk charging voltage being adjustable, and float voltage also being adjustable, ie v1.2 software. ;-) Don't forget to test this thing and write up some feedback to china 30, before giving them their Ebay review.
What do the instructions say for setting the float voltage? There should be something in there about it after setting the bulk charge voltage. Hold the button for 5 seconds or 10 seconds to get it into the next "mode" of adjusting the settings.
If 14.4 is the bulk voltage default setting, I'd think they would give you + or - .9V as settings?
Just ordered one, so I blew $31 to be a guinea pig for all of us. Plenty of sunshine here in So Cal to figure it out.
Demand less government regulation and you end up with John D Rockefeller and Leland Stanford, ethics. COSTCO and WalMart have no freakin' way in the world to verify origin nor anything else but weight. Railroad train cars of made in Mexico plates and sub assemblies never mind batteries can roll into Johnson Controls or US battery and under NAFTA they do not have to declare it if they glue the lid onto the battery. Get the picture.
Wanna hear silence? Get on the blower and ask these companies: Is any component of your XXXXX batteries not manufactured in the USA? If so what is the percentage of the accumulator made or assembled outside the USA ?
Would they answer the question with silence also, if you called up or emailed Trojan batteries about construction of T105's accumulators?
Propane or Mapp gas with a burner and solder it in. Then heat shrink.
Overcharging and outgassing without good ventilation, or batteries on the verge of going bad do the most damage reacting chemically with copper and corroding it green. All that spare hydrogen and a pinch of CO2 from overcharging forms malachite green all over the exposed copper. Get rid of the hydrogen, the overcharging, or get some proper ventilation, and the problem goes away.
That solar system of yours is doing a bang up job of topping off your batteries. Perhaps too topped off?
Don't AGM batteries vent off a lot less to nothing, therefore preventing the corrosion on the terminals? Just another option, they aren't supposed to out gas?
If you have a hydraulic crimper in the RV down in Quartzsite, with all the rich old RV'ers down there, you could have the equipment pay for itself in one or 2 side jobs for others?
When I measured the A/C power draw it was 12 amps
Your A/C might be different
My Dometic 13.5k BTU draws 12.5 Amps continuous, but pulls 20 amps at start up, with a fully charged battery bank. So you need to get your charger out of bulk charge mode before you attempt to start up the AC if you pair an Eu2000i with an Eu1000i to get the AC started.
I don't think it's a good idea to run an AC off of a single Eu2000i once started, that air cooled motor works too hard to keep the AC and fan going, far too close to it's 1600 watts continuous rating.