You plan on ambushing your new battery with a Megawatt Gang? Ganged Megawatts?
Not sure quite yet what I may modify. Seems certain though, that AGM needs to be topped off fully, as near 100% as possible, daily, and needs some serious heavy duty amperage every now and then to fill the charge banks up fully.
If I am using 40 AH out of 175AH at 20 hr rating, then thats 75 to 80 SOC when in use. Shop claims these have never been deeply discharged, and manuals claim a couple of deep discharges when new are in order to develop full capacity. Makes me think I need to do a trip pronto and do at least a couple of 50% SOC cycles. Problem is I don't know what kind of voltage under no load a 50% SOC is. I would need to replace 80 to 90 amps, that's probably 1.5 hours on the generator first thing in the morning at 45 amps back in, and the solar panel at 14.4V the rest of the day, at 8.5 Amps.
Also need to see how the Touareg does recharging this battery while driving in route.
Connect that mutha to the veedub and that car is going to go..
How are the reproductive organs of your generator? I've seen fourteen amps inrush and and that's AC. ****ney wise "O's ah gee emahs ah bloody soddy leeches they ah". They'll suck the snot out of your generator so fast you'll end up dizzy. Marles is sending me another Mega manana. But I have to stage step the units or the hotel I stay at will resemble the final scene of Poltergeist. ****ed batteries are a black hole sucking energy.
And yeah me too going to "The Box" El Cajon for me group 31 basketball player edition 165 amp hours Lifeline. Whatzuh basketball player edition? 10-3/4" Tall. Jesus told me the tree he cut back nine feet has re-grown the last 11-months. So solar is out of the question down in Tarzan Country. Going to have to rely on CFE and the Kubota. It's costing me eleven dollars a month just to float the R&S 2-volt cells with public power. Need to join a cartel make money sending nuveau brain food north to the hard working youth of the USA.You know the ones. They cinch their pants belt tight around their knees and protect the back of their neck against sunburn.
The TDI is diesel, V6 3.0 liter turbodiesel. It makes stupid horsepower even at idle running the 175Amp alternator.
2 Honda Eu2000i's, and a Honda Eu1000i. The 2000's are near new.
You need new cell phone, I need new FrankenZapper... PM me or email me and lets do a swap.
So I've no idea how long this beast was sitting on the pallet out in the beating sun, but this is what the voltage was sitting at before hooking it up, with me not using it for anything or any treatment before.
Set the 30 Amp MegaWatt for 14.43 volts, vs 14.37 volts and noted right from the get go, this battery was taking 21 amps, nooo problem. About 7 minutes of generator time had the amps now being taken at 1.75 Amps, the 1% of Amp hours suggested by Mexico Wanderer. My question was wondering if the battery is rated at 145 amp at 8 hours, should I really keep on chargin it until it's at 1.45 amps/hr?
What is most fascinating to me is how many amps it will take at the get go, no internal resistance, and how fast the amps fall off when you get close to topped off fully. This one might require some baby sitting to not overcharge it, it's not forgiving like the T-1275 where you can add a bit of water. Once the water vents out, it's gone forever, so don't overcharge it.
Has the torsional twist-energy via straight socket extension dilemma been resolved?
Wasn't discussed, but the area within the force vs. displacement curve of a spring (the spring hysteresis) should be proportional to the energy lost within the spring.
So you are saying energy is being lost withing a spring, and that energy lost is being subtracted from the ftlbs of torque being applied by the torque wrench setting? And those subracted ft lb's come back when the full pressure of the torque wrench is released, but never get applied to the nut or bolt head?
The spring takes the torque, it is lost, and it releases it, it is gained back, when the tension on the spring is removed?
We should ask rjfishing for his professional opinion, eh?
Well since my name is spelled and mispronounced at least 90% of the time I don't really see your point. Funny thing even though I did misspell the awning name, ( I actually thought it was Domestic not Dometic) most still knew what I was asking.
Oh and thanks so much for offering information on how FIX my problem. Oh wait.you though a spelling lesson was more important. :)
Changed title to Dometic so Ed Gee will not get his panties in a wad! :-)
Unless you enjoy appearing retarded and having low standards in mentioning brand names... your choice, may as well learn how to spell it right from the beginning.
Hard to take someone serious when they won't even take the time to spell the name correctly, kind of like how you'd feel if everyone pronounced and spelled you name wrong, you'd wonder why they don't care enough to get it right.
Take it in to an RV center and pay a professional to resolve your problem. All the information you need, right there.
All those amps, in an AGM battery, supposedly July 2014 build, for $125 out the door. Perhaps it was a deal that was too good to be true?
That was a pretty good AGM deal if it isn't worn out a bit, but I don't see how it could be after only one year. Without revealing your source .... I'm curious as to how it became available to you that new and at that price?
FWIW, I paid about $47 each for my first set of two new 100 amp-hour wheelchair AGM batteries around 9 years ago on a warranty swap arrangement with the dealer where I bought our motorhome. I got around 8 1/2 years use out of them before replacement.
Some guy that posts a lot about solar charging and recharging batteries from the Left Coast of Canuckistan that discovered how to employ and properly charge wasted Trojn T-1275's, I think, came across a deal in the Great White North on one of these batteries. Another post by some sorcerer wizard type of guy lead to a discrete PM being sent by me to them requesting more information, which yielded a link to a battery shop 125 miles away from me with a smoking deal. The only way to make this economically feasible is to drive an uber efficient 55mpg capable VW TDI diesel sedan at sedate 65mph speeds on I-5 on my way to Mexico at free flowing Midnight Interstate 5 traffic conditions, if they aren't tearing it up and doing road construction improvements on it. It would never be cost efficient in a Road Hog gas sucking RV with gasoline at $4 a gallon. I know this because my friends I met down there kept on looking at me weird, like how did you save any money driving the RV down here to get a new battery, like I was some sort of nut job? It was when I walked out to my car and they saw me get into it, that it was determined I didn't suck all my savings and blow it out the tail pipe of a 10mpg if you're lucky RV.
That's the Reader's Digest Condensed version. I can add the minute important details after I extract that Honda EX650 as a gift from you to me when you "pay it forward" to me in a quid pro quid deal. Sound fair?
This is an unlikely but not absurd "just in case" question, Niner.
You DID rock the battery back and forth and heard no liquid sloshing sound? In Fred Flintstone' s day telecom used to use sealed, valve regulated calcium/ calcium flooded batteries. I know how unlikely this may be but the battery is newly purchased and returable.
Go back a page Mexicowanderer, I added some pictures to one of my posts on page 1... take a look at them. This battery can be mounted in all positions except upside down for the venting if you overcharged it. No sloshing. BTW rocking 105 pounds is not easy feat. Pure lead and tin plates, I think is what the brochure says? Maybe crack it open, and cast bullets out of the lead when I am done with it? Is $30 fair market core trade in value for a sc r a pped T1275 at 87 pounds worth?
You always told me to weigh batteries, well, the mass of this one doesn't lie, it's the Full Monty in that department. 105 lbs, for the hashtag impaired. That is, and will always be a pounds sign to me, just like a mouse will always be a member of the rodent family.
Edit: really mods "sc r ap" is a bad word? WTF? Well p*o*o*p!!!
What was the OCV when you got the battery?
I think an AGM battery that size for that price, is a steal.
You will certainly notice different numbers on you Megawatt's ammeter.
My Northstar AGM is an AMP whore, it just gobbles up everything my charging sources can muster until the mid to upper 80% state of charge range. That Lifeline GPL-31Xt battery I had for a project was even more impressive in terms of voltage held under load and its ability to accept HUGE recharging currents.
My Northstar is both my Engine starting battery and house battery at the moment, and it seems to be Okay with that. I can plug in and not cycle it overnight, but, well lately, I am anyway. The voltages it holds for the AH removed, still impresses me at 20 months of age and ~ 120 deep cycles, and even with 55AH removed from a 91AH battery, it easily cranks my v8 engine.
I am debating the necessity of a house battery, at least in summertime.
Obsessive Compulsive Voltage? I need to get the DCM out of the TT to measure it. I have not done much with it yet, still sitting in the trunk of the sedan.
I need to use the old battery first to tune down from 14.8V charging to 14.4V both on the MegaWatt 30 and the charge controller for the solar panel. I do understand how power hungry AGM's are at sucking huge amps when first recharging. Which means that AGM battery in the Touareg and it's alternator voltage already at 14.3 with 175 amp hour capacity, with some jumper cables would give this battery a nice blast of amps, at the proper voltage 14.3V, if need be.
I might need to work a deal with mexicowanderer to build me a Frankenzapper 10 spin pot whizzbanger charger for this out of a 36 amp Megawhat, with gauges on it for Volts and watts, when he needs a newer cell phone.
I'm curious .... why didn't you search for a couple of 105 to125 amp hour 12V Group 31 AGM batteries instead?
I just installed a couple of these for a total of 230 amp hours and it only required two 72 lb. lifts instead of one 105 lb. lift. (I don't know if the doc would say which approach winds up being worse on the back, though. :) )
All those amps, in an AGM battery, supposedly July 2014 build, for $125 out the door. Perhaps it was a deal that was too good to be true?
Yep Fridays and I-5 north are a nightmare out of Sandyeggo.
YOu got that 8d Deka Intimidator AGM battery eh?
I wonder how old it is too.
I've got a lot of shirts with holes in them recently from moving the Screwy31, which is still performing an occasional cycle.
My guess is it's a TelCo backup battery, or UPS battery. Maybe send Wizard a PM to confirm. This appears to be the model...
And I just want to say thanks again, to anyone and everyone that has ever posted up here and helped this lay person out with anything and everything RV related, especially if it involves the motion of electrons, photons, or electromagnetic radiation in some way, shape or form. I think last night, I may have converted some friends to get the 5th wheel instead for Baja instead of a 2nd home down there. A few pictures "glamping" in beautiful, rugged places, may have gotten the wife's approval.
I took a trip yesterday down near San Diego, it was twofold. One was to replace my free Trojan T-1275 that was a golf cart reject already when I got it with a pig of a 105# UPS 145ah AGM battery from Deka. I have already nicknamed that battery "The Herniator".
The other was to meet up with some old friends, which turned into happy hour, which turned into... getting on the road sober at 11:30 pm to miss all the BS traffic on Interstate 5 to north los angeles.
This DEKA battery looks brand spanking new. I will need to check the date of mfg, but I wanted to shout out thanks to You Know Who, for the lead. I believe at a 20hr rate, it claims 175 AH. 8 hour rate, 145AH.
The T-1275 served me well, I think the heat of this May, June and July camping in the Owens Valley and desert surround is what really did one cell in, the cell closest to the negative battery post. SG just kept on falling, falling, falling. I knew she was done when the last morning of camping, with a good charge the day before, plenty of sun, lead to a shower to use up the last of my fresh water tank in the morning, and the shower head flow got lower and lower, to near a trickle. Shut it down, fired up the honda generator, and the flow level came right back up. Can not complain, the T-1275 was free, I got about 2 years of camping use out of it, so it was a win, win.
The good thing about the AGM is I will no longer be dipping and burning holes in good shirts and pants, so it has already paid for itself, Levi 505's aint cheap anymore these days, I've wrecked 2 pair dipping battery acid, don't know how, but I do know what battery acid holes look like in cotton denim.
Edit: just found this. 14.4V and should I ever do an equalize charge, 14.58V is Max, max, max.
DEKA PDF charge regime
Maybe post it up under tow vehicles? You have any Russian friends?, They can advise you what works and what doesn't if they've been to the Old Country recently, everyone there has one running, for liability purposes.... seems stupid pedestrians there like to run into cars and collect from insurance companies with fraud, instead of work for their rubles. Fraud, I tell ya.
My 10-watt heatsinks are 90 mm in diameter with 25 fins. Driving the 10-watt chip -exactly- at 10-watts (9.88 vdc) with convection alone I am getting a Delta T temp of 34 degrees F using pure convection cooling. One such of my devices has been 24/7/365 since June 2013 so in reality the device cannot be being overdriven.
Those plates in that image have perhaps 10% of the thermal radiation area of my original equipment grade heatsinks that cost $22.00 in China. They are correct because they are drilled and threaded for the 10-watt commercial chip.
No question in my mind that aluminum plate would help IF IF IF IF sufficient area were allowed ABOVE the plate to permit convection. If that plate was mounted flat against an insulation it would prove to be pathetically ineffective.
Wonder what chip they are using i.e. total wattage rendered? Most flat plates afford 2.5 watts consumed, and my plate was measured last night at 3.1 watts which is really pushing thermal limits.
Bonding directly to aluminum is not going to make this device inexpensive.
Gotta watch for honorable slight-of-hand. A "new" 12-volt "50 watt" floodlight on eBay consists of (5) severely-under-driven 10-watt chips. Zank yu very much but I'll stick with a single chip, properly driven attached to a proper heat sink.
I tabbed a site that sells quarter-inch LEXAN polycarbonate which can be fashioned and cemented into an effective lens. Using a black anodized heat sink and sealing-in the chip results in bullet-proof durability. The wire pass through hole in the finned heat sink will be sealed with JB Weld.
You are repeating what the flashlight and nighttime headlamp wearing mountain biking crowd discovered 5-6 years ago. Under drive it and save heat, or drive it properly, 1000mah, and heat sink it properly. Most of the EE's I knew that tinkered with these LEDs, came to the conclusion that 700 to 1000 Milliamphours was the sweet spot for driving a 220 to 375 lumen out put single 3.7V LED chip.
Impact gun, yes
Hand held torque wrench, no
/\ This. An impact gun will wind up and unwind an extention, giving a false,lower torque value.
A hand held torque wrench loads up the flex and twist in the extension, and holds it there as a constant, before the torque wrench "breaks" at the torque value it is set for.
I checked and ye gods the lumens now read 240 on their website. Was 270.
Unless there is a substantial difference in watts/lumen between the 3528 and 5630 making the 5630 operate cooler I would hate to see any plate run warmer than what this one does. It gets ****ed warm, and it's a good size plate. Operating voltage test was 12.23
Regardless. I let my eyes and small font print tell me how much light there is. Chinese lumen measurements must not be an exact science and after spending a FORTUNE on hyper overpriced origin-USA CREE and Bridgelux lamps that were a joke for brightness, I think I'm going to stick with this one from BuyInCoins.
The heat is -the- issue and the -hype- is the trap. Only so many watts of chips can be mounted on a given area of substrate and after the limit is exceeded a pretty little mushroom cloud forms. And I am not going to pay a vendor ten dollars a chip premium because he distributes made in China LED plates from a USA post office box.
You'll make less heat with a bigger LED chip and underdriving it /dimming it by using some sort of PWM dimmer feeding it less milliamps. I don't think you'll find problems with the 5630's that are being used in boxlights and signs having cooling problems, usually they are pre built on a good aluminum heat sink that the substrate is mounted on.
Ya gots to read what LED is on them. Odds are that it's a 3528. You can get more light, from less LEDs on a panel, for example if you pick a 5630 LED.
I just ordered some 9 LED 5630 panels. I'll compare them with my 36 3528 panels.
A search on Alibaba.com for 5630 LED indicates all kinds of possibilities for light boxes and sign making industry.
About 4.5x as bright as a 1210 or 3528 LED
5630 LEDs for sign applications and backlighting.
4 hours or thereabouts at 14.4V to 14.8V bulk charging rate.
Really interested in seeing how many amps it makes when you first turn it on in 14.3V, how close to 55 Amps, or how much lower or less it is.