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 > Your search for posts made by 'NinerBikes' found 1433 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Do you compensate for slides-outs when leveling first?

I usually read the Owners Manual first, before operating, or posting questions on Woodall's. There are some engineers here, but few of them design slideouts for RV's, or warranty them. I can tell you when building a house, a level foundation is very important. Some people in Italy that build leaning towers don't think the same as me. http://boredbug.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/pisatower12.jpg
NinerBikes 07/04/15 10:00am Tech Issues
LED bulbs

Who makes a good brand of LED lights in the A19 120V configuration? I'm looking for a good price on 5000k temp bulbs, that I usually mix 1:1 with something in the old school 3300K temp incandescent lighting color. Does anyone know what that sticky junk is on the glass portion that dust sticks to on a Cree LED light bulb? I find it a PIA to dust off / clean, being sticky. Cree? Phillips? Luxeon? Maybe if I get my watt usage down for emergency lighting, a Honda EU250i will save me a fortune in gas.
NinerBikes 07/04/15 09:50am Tech Issues
RE: CFL bulbs

SO..... If I buy one from the guy out in Quartzsite and stick it in my pocket, other than erasing my entire wallet, will it ..?..?..?..?..?..?......... Also? It won't work on the wife's titanium hip or knee, but I'd for sure remove it out of my waders before going steelhead fishing. Can you wave your hand back and forth at 60 Hz holding that magnet? CFL's might get excited at that rate, perhaps?
NinerBikes 07/04/15 12:32am Tech Issues
RE: CFL bulbs

ELECTROMAGNETIC S IS A VERY ATTRACTIVE FIELD hahajajajijihoho But I did about 95% of the work needed for my doctorate. Dissertation half done. Holographic projection of an electromagnetic field. I handed all my work over to Lawrence Livermore.Gran Mal temper tantrum... Oh, I see the pun there... Electromagnetic... attractive... if women were steel, would you be sporting neodymium in your shorts?
NinerBikes 07/03/15 07:26pm Tech Issues
RE: A different flashlight question

Mexicowanderer reread my post, double check all the links, for color of light beam.
NinerBikes 07/03/15 11:19am Tech Issues
RE: A different flashlight question

It looked great Niner, until i got to the part LUZ AMARILLO Mode de estacionamiento de Wal-Mart Walmart parking lot high pressure sodium orange. My eyes do not do well in "warm" white lighting never mind the lighting quality on the San Francisco Bay Bridge. ¡Pero Mil Gracias Para Su Cuido! That is the color of the outside housing, a light yellow, or gold color, not the LED's, which are cool white in emitter color. The trim is silver color, not the body. I bought one of these a while back, complete kit, and I can assure you, the lighting color is cool white, probably 5000 to 5400K temperature. Same light in kit form
NinerBikes 07/02/15 11:27am Tech Issues
RE: A different flashlight question

Being an oldfart I need a flood light at night so I don't trip and break my other arm. But I've not yet found a powerful C or D cell cylindrical hand flood lamp. I do have Tenergy rechargable cells. Big Azz Flood LED that runs on your 18650 batteries out of your laptop... or buy 4 new ones and a charger seperately Another seller, another description 18650 charger Or get a combo kit. 4 batteries and charger.
NinerBikes 07/02/15 10:57am Tech Issues
RE: CFL bulbs

A CFL has an anode, and a cathode and usually a starter choke ballast. How they work Porcelain lamp fixture for a lightbulb, be it CFL or argon gas and tungsten white hot heated element. There is no green wire "ground" for the fixture, hence no ground for the light bulb. http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m-nIZNqpQQXklqJ9rlj6ecg.jpg End of debate. Also agreed, a Honda generator, or any other generator has no "Ground" or "earth" Connection, unless you want to pound a Ufer ground rod into the ground and tie it in to the ground wire, although it is perfectly unnecessary. It is necessary when you are tied into the electrical grid, as the source of electricity, usually a huge generator, is then tied into ground also to provide a short circuit path. That link has very outdated information concerning not only CFLs but most all MODERN DAY fluorescents. Early CFLs did indeed use a iron core "ballast", I had a few of those.. Modern day CFLs actually use an ELECTRONIC "Ballast" which is a fancy term for switching power supply! Simply put, modern day CFLS have a built in switching powersupply which is very simular to say your PC power supply but instead of 3, 5, 12V DC they have several HUNDRED VOLTS.. Modern day CFLs actually can be run on DC provided you have 50-70V DC! Modern day fluorescent fixtures no longer use the old iron ballasts either, instead once again they now use switching power power supplies which deliver several hundred volts.. If you don't believe me, go to home depot and take a good look at replacement ballasts.. You will find only electronic versions due to efficiency regulations.. No need to believe or disbelieve, I'm a general contractor, you are correct, almost all ballasts now are electronic, the electrical code for energy efficiency is a royal PIA for me and clients nowadays, staying current and up with it. I may be one of the few that have met SCVJeff in person and seen his rig and his work. One word... respect, with anything he does that involves electromagnetic energy, in all it's forms. There's a fair amount of highly technical guys around here, read enough and you'll know who's EE rated and who still needs to be qualified. I don't have my EE, so I shut up if it's over my head.
NinerBikes 07/02/15 08:20am Tech Issues
RE: CFL bulbs

A CFL has an anode, and a cathode and usually a starter choke ballast. How they work Porcelain lamp fixture for a lightbulb, be it CFL or argon gas and tungsten white hot heated element. There is no green wire "ground" for the fixture, hence no ground for the light bulb. http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m-nIZNqpQQXklqJ9rlj6ecg.jpg End of debate. Also agreed, a Honda generator, or any other generator has no "Ground" or "earth" Connection, unless you want to pound a Ufer ground rod into the ground and tie it in to the ground wire, although it is perfectly unnecessary. It is necessary when you are tied into the electrical grid, as the source of electricity, usually a huge generator, is then tied into ground also to provide a short circuit path.
NinerBikes 07/01/15 02:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Leaking Duracells

Or get eneloops or Tenergy rechargables and put battery problems on the list right on the last page. I have some 6 year old AA Eneloops, and they still function flawlessly, although I've no idea if they've lost some capacity over the years. zero leaks, so far, in expensive GPS units, but voltage at 1.2V each cell, is a little low for some LED flashlights.
NinerBikes 07/01/15 11:20am Tech Issues
RE: Progressive Dynamics (PD9260CV) Question.

Two honda EU2000i generators paired when necessary would solve the problem also. One honda 2000 running an AC is running that generator near maximum at all times, not good for the generator. Get a second one and make a pairing cable.
NinerBikes 06/29/15 06:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging Battery More Efficiently

Your EX650 does not have an inverter. It has to maintain 3600 rpms to provide 60 cycles per second input. So what you are proposing is a bad idea with the generator you own. You can not drop the rpm's on it, under load. Note that I said "burdened" ... not "slower". The EX650 gets louder under load, not slower. I would listen for a slightly louder sound from the little genny while turning the knob. The EX650 will not slow up - it's circuit breaker will open when current load becomes too high. I guess instead of listening, I could use an AC watt-meter and stop the power supplly knob turning when the input to the power supply reached around 500 or so watts from the Honda .... or turn the knob until the circuit breaker opened ... several times to get an average. I'd then use a power supply output voltage knob setting a little less than the generator's "circuit breaker open" point. well then, give it a try, and get back to us with a report with something new to add to the knowledge base.
NinerBikes 06/29/15 08:29am Tech Issues
RE: Charging Battery More Efficiently

considering their "intended" use.. most likley was too be set once, and left alone Not tinkered with and adjusted all the time If I had one, I'd adjust it only once - but want to do it using a big ol' knob with graduations on it. I'd adjust it with my coach battery bank reading around 12.0 volts at rest. Then I'd fire up the 650 watt Honda, plug the power supply into the Honda, then attach the power supply with big ol' wire to the battery bank with the voltage knob set to about 1/4 of maximum. Then I'd begin turning the knob in the higher voltage direction until the Honda just sounded burdened. I'd leave the knob permanently at that setting for those particular batteries and that particular generator. You can use that kind of burden technique on a motor that has an inverter and will give a full 60 cycles per second, regardless of engine rpm. Your EX650 does not have an inverter. It has to maintain 3600 rpms to provide 60 cycles per second input. So what you are proposing is a bad idea with the generator you own. You can not drop the rpm's on it, under load.
NinerBikes 06/28/15 09:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging Battery More Efficiently

The meanwell/megawatts have very small voltage adjustment dials requiring insertion of a jewelers screwdriver and a fine touch, That's an inexcusable design flub right there. A 10-turn pot is not necessary ... a 3/4-turn one is OK ... with a large knob and a scale around the perimeter. No, it's an inexcusable operator flub, when the person fiddles with the setting constantly, knowing it is originally designed as a power supply unit, but is being employed outside it's original design scope when being used as a charge controller instead, and as a bulk charging single stage charger, at that, strictly for bulk charging while dry camping, to get your flooded lead acid batteries to a 90% SOC, as quickly and as efficiently as a hard working generator burning expensive gasoline will allow. It's an operating parameter limitation, by design. I would suggest in your case sticking with your free Honda EX650 and a 3 stage charger, if you are worried about the pot on a meanwell or a Mega Watt being inadequate, especially if after all these years, you don't comprehend what Mexicowanderer has been posting for over a year now about using PSU's as a dry camping single stage, bulk charging device only. Modify at your own peril, as landyacht has done, but he knows exactly what he is doing in these areas in attempting to recharge batteries.
NinerBikes 06/28/15 05:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging Battery More Efficiently

I have a single Group 27 battery. I love to dry camp. I have a Honda eu1000i generator and a wfco (?) 55 power center. which is the most efficient way to charge the battery - connect the battery directly to the battery or plug the trailer into the generator, or neither is better - they would both charge at the same rate? Thanks. You have a single group 27 Deep cycle rated at what 85 to 90 Amp hours. Half of that is 45 amps, that is useable. You'd be better off with a group 27 not getting it discharged much below 60% SOC. .4 x 90 amps would be 36 amps used. You'll get to 90% SOC with some efficiency with your Eu1000i, so replacing .3 x 90 should be your goal if weekending it, with a full top off recharge to 15V or more when you get back from camping. So you are looking at replacing 27 amps, maybe 36 if you did a 50% SOC discharge cycle. What I would do is buy the MegaWatt 30 amp model, it already comes with a cord and an on off switch, set the voltage on it at 14.8 or just a hair above that, 14.9V, with it fully disconnected from the battery, make a set of charging cables, and install an inline RC watt meter to the charging cables. Run the Honda until you are at a 7 or 8 amp rate of charge take rate to the battery, and then shut the generator off. Do this while camping. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v374/grand_toots/2012%20Palomino%20Gazelle%20G210/20140502_124537_zpsqzorr6rl.jpg Plug in your WFCO when you get home to the trailer, and let that run for 3 days at 13.8V to top charge the battery, then disconnect the battery for full time storage, and also disconnect the trailer and it's electrical to the WFCO. You should be fine. Every camper should own a digital multi meter and a hand held amp meter, as well as a good high industrial grade hydrometer for battery maintenance purposes. When your group 27 dies,strongly consider replacing it with a pair of GC-2 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in series, if you do much dry camping off the grid, which it sounds like you do, if you already have the Honda EU1000i.
NinerBikes 06/28/15 05:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging Battery More Efficiently

If the 30 amp supply actually does 40 amps.... yes the Honda 1000 will struggle and possibly overload in certain conditions. True 30 amp limited such as IOTA should be good in all conditions. mexicowanderer thinks it was the capacitors that needed charging up to capacity before hooking to the battery terminals, that caused the high reading. So maybe it's not as hard on the Eu1000i as I observed, if you change your procedure. I don't leave my MegaWatt attached to the battery when not in use.
NinerBikes 06/28/15 09:25am Tech Issues
RE: Solar panel to 2 batteries...

Connect in parallel as show. Top battery is "lead" http://i.imgur.com/S4Rp2R1l.jpgMaybe I don't have my batteries hooked up correctly... I have the negative from the trailer going to one battery, and the positive from the trailer going to the second battery... of course neg to neg and pos to pos from one battery to the other. Your batteries are hooked up correctly, and you should hook up the clamps from your solar panels at the exact same locations as the trailer terminals are hooked up on the batteries. Duplicate it and you will be fine. Positive red goes on one battery terminal of the first battery, and the negative black goes to the second battery and it's negative terminal.
NinerBikes 06/27/15 09:06am Tech Issues
RE: Charging Battery More Efficiently

I doubt even 16 volts from any 30 amp supply will overload the Honda 1000. I can tell you that 10% ethanol at 7500 feet and 14.8V with that MegaWatt 30 amp alongside the Madison River in Montana on a 17F morning on 9-11-14 had the meanwell at first on a warm motor sucking 40 amps and in 15 seconds, it was down to 33 and in another 15 seconds it was down to 29 amps, and there was one heavily taxed and loud barking EU1000i pumping all the beans in the tank for 30 seconds before the throttle on Eco mode just barely subsided. I do not know the PFC correction for the Power supply unit, but that generator is rated 1000 watts at sea level. 7 x .036 = 25%, that's 25% loss due to elevation, if you corrected the jets for elevation. You can throw away another 5% easily with cr@ppy 10% methanol in your gas too. So now you are talking maybe 700 to 750 watts, peak, from losses camping high up and with cut fuel. At start up, on a 60% SOC battery, it will pull 40 amps, probably at 13.1V at the battery, it will be 14.8 at the PSU. That's 600 watts. That's very close to the limit, where I was. I saw the red light flickering as the amps maxed, and dissappeared in about 7 or 8 seconds as the intial amps surge dropped off. It's pretty close, a lot like a Iota 30 amp at 14.8V being hard on an Eu1000i under less than perfect conditions.
NinerBikes 06/26/15 11:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging Battery More Efficiently

Buy a Megawatt 36'amp power supply for 65 dollars search eBay. Set it for 14.8 volts. Far and away faster than any other way. Or buy it straight from John Marle by doing a search for "megawatt" on Google. He also makes a 30 amp version for a few bucks less, probably a better fit with that Honda EU1000i if you are charging at over 4 or 5000 feet in elevation. I have the 30 amp version and it runs the Eu1000i really hard when the motor is making less HP at higher elevations and with ethanol being 10% in your gasoline these days. That's a double whammy on power output from the generator. Megawatt for sale, direct 30 and 36 amp models at bottom of page I was one of the first to buy one of the 30 amp models here on RVnet/woodall's to run on an Eu1000i. Mexicowanderer is correct, nothing I've seen works faster. When it drops to a 10 to 12 amp rate of charge with this, it's gas saving, off with the generator time and let the solar panel top charge the slow part, the rest, again at 14.8V then floatV charge at 13.8V
NinerBikes 06/26/15 10:34am Tech Issues
RE: why don't Solar controller mfg/sellers use honest ratings

you guys think its a safety "derating" tell the consumer to use 3xx max panels and he can't possibly hit the controller limit Okay could be .. BUT ?? other controllers some costing more some about the same are built with heat sinks and current limiting, and simply clip any over current and pass thru the rated limit..these controllers are truely what they say they are i dont think a user should have to buy a 45amp controller to control 30amps worth of panels or a 30amp controller to control 22amps worth of panels just build it for what it is supposed to do and price it accordingly I have a 150W solar panel 12v kind. It is rated lsc of 8.8 amps. My RC charge meter has recorded a peak amperage out of that panel of 9.3 amps, on a 65% SOC battery. I'd have no problem putting 2 panels together, but there is no way I'd run the two through my 20 Amp Charge controller that I also use, too close for comfort. I probably would run a pair of 140W panels through the same 20 amp charge controller and not worry of the blue smoke syndrome. For $33 for a 30 amp charge controller, even if it's 24 amps, derated, go try and build and sell what you want... I am sure there are some high roller RV'ers that will buy bling to show off to their RV buddies. There will also be the low budget travel trailer and camper folks looking to charge cheaply with a value priced charge controller. Pick your price point, and market accordingly. My thought process it that by the time the sun is at it's 10 AM position, where the panel can make max amps, your batteries are probably at the point where the amp charge rate is dropping off as the voltage increases, if you designed a balanced proper battery pack, solar panel and charge controller system that is properly designed and integrated. That, in essence, lets the marketing people able to cheat a bit on the ratings, most of the recharging is done when the panels aren't aimed directly at the sun, so the panels aren't maxing out until later in the day... at that point the charging rate of the batteries is lower, they are chemically reducing the amount of amps accepted at that point and state of charge.
NinerBikes 06/25/15 10:56pm Tech Issues
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