Some folks here should start a Go Fund Me for Mex so he can get through this month on something more healthy than rice and beans. I'm not that smart, but someone else here probably is. The knowledge he provides here should not be free.
A couple of folks here have some parts, probably LED's, battery chargers or some such coming from Mexico, via San Diego. If you are one of those folks, send Mex an email for more details. It seems there was some kind of accident down in San Diego with a red light being run and Mex being the recipient of the impact.
He is OK, a bit banged up, concussion, lacerations and a dislocated shoulder. Your parts will be arriving late piano and track.
I fill my black water with 5 gallons of water in a 30 gallon black water tank, every time, before I start camping. I add another 5 gallons before I pull the plunger to dump my black water tank. Wait for everything to come out. Fill up with another 5 gallons of water in it, and drive home happily, with no use of the potty on the drive home, letting it slosh around the whole tank. Dump again when I get to my storage yard. No problems.
While I ignore my % full screen and use the AH from full instead, I really do not trust that figure to any high degree, unless I see when it starts counting backwards. appears I can discharge several AH before it starts counting.
Right now it is saying 100% and 0Ah from dull, but is accepting 1.6 amps at 14.7v.
So it is not full by any means, and I will reset it tonight and lower the 'charge efficiency' and hope it is closer tomorrow.
Ok second day at recharging my two AGMs and after leaving them on the adjusted Float over night, they are now accepting 0.1 amp (0.05 each) at 14.3v (about 13.7 at 77F) Tri says AH restored is now 78.3 so getting closer to the 80AH removed.
Watching paint dry! :(
I see LY jacked his voltage back up in this situation to see if they accepted more amps, and if not any more than at his Float, he declared "Full." Maybe I should try that later if amps don't fall to zero like Phil's do.
Reason I care is they will go on a Float after this for a long time and it says somewhere to get them truly full before putting them on a float. Problem is knowing when they are truly full enough to do that.
When they are 0.5% amperage of Ah ratings on the battery, at 14.4v on a surplus acid AGM battery, they are fully charged and ready for float charging, per DEKA.
Here is a link to an older (less capable) GL towing a 30' Airstream.
Notice in the comments people using it to also tow in the mountains, and the one guy saying how it tows better than his 6.2L 2500 .....
Here is his video with high cross winds. Love is comment about the guy with a fiver tell him how bad it must be because his fiver is getting blown all over! LMAO got to love that fiver mentality :R
same GL in the wind enjoy all you naysayers!
That's all you need to know, told in that video, a quartering tail wind is not problematic. You don't know if the other driver in the 5th wheel was driving into a quartering HEADWIND, going the other direction, when he pulled in to fuel up also. Stupid video, without all the facts.
All the diesel SUVs are pretty similar in performance. They offer a 3.0 somewhere in the 240 HP range. Doesn't matter if you choose the Benz, BMW, Audi, or Grand Cherokee. All pretty much the same capability. And I agree, that all of those will be pushed to their limits to do what you are hoping to accomplish.
Or a Volkswagen Touareg. But don't plan on towing fast or over 60 with a TT behind you, unless you want to tear up and destroy the drivetrain and motor. Keep your tow weight to within 50 to 60% of the tow capacity on the german SUV's, because the TUV in Germany rates the CHASSIS capacity tow limits, not the motor or drive train tow limits, and in Germany, all these SUV's you can get a Turbo Diesel V8 package not available here in the states. So the CHASSIS is designed for the bigger motor and tranny package, but the 3.0L ENGINE and DRIVETRAIN packages in North America aren't designed for those towing weights, speeds, or levels of performance. So keep your speed, and weight and wind resistance values down with the 3.0L drive trains, they were NOT designed for hauling the mail. One look at the motor oil specs on any of these European small displacement V6 or inline 4 engines will tell you all you need to know, DPF filters with no clean outs, and LIGHT DUTY diesel engine oils... All C3 specifications.
Don't send a boy out to do a man's job. Get a smaller trailer, or a bigger cubic inch engine block. There is no replacement for engine displacement, when you need to get work done, and towing a trailer is a lot of work.
Hmmmm, SCVJeff... "my friend"... subtle.... very subtle.... ;-) You got a lot more bites than I did. Haha! Must be that gray day weather down there in Q, and winter doldrums starting to set in? :B
If you want to know about a WFCO, fire the Honda up, plug in, read the voltage at the WFCO and at the battery terminals. Log for 4 hours, every 15 minutes, voltage at the battery terminals, and you'll have your answer... I KNOW you know how to do this, I pulled all your Trojans out for you the last time due to your health conditions, so you could do so on the Meridian.
What a sneaky fisherman. :W LMAO, nice one!
Are they boondockers recharging off of a generator or pedestal campers? If it were me, and they are boondockers, I'd look for the Progressive Dynamics model that puts out 14.8V in bulk charge mode, not the 14.4V model, assumming they are using regular vented lead acid batteries.
If they have AGM batteries in their future, that don't corrode all your battery wiring and terminals, then I would go ahead with the regular 14.4V Progressive Dynamics model.
The exact chemistry of the batteries they run should determine the bulk charging voltage of the charger. Flooded lead acid batteries, 14.8V in bulk mode, AGM batteries, 14.4V in bulk mode, so they don't gas off.
Any of these will run off the Honda Eu2000i. The 60 amp units are most commom, easiest to find, and won't bog down the Honda and run fine in Eco mode on that generator. Make certain your friend warms up the Honda in Eco mode for 2 minutes before subjecting the motor to the charging load, then plug it in.
In either version, the 60 amp model will be fine, I think. These are boondocking dry camping suggestions. I haven't a clue for pedestal campers, I think it's far less critical for them, just float at 13.5 to 13.8V so you don't boil off the electrolyte.
If your friend is cheap, set him up with a pair of those Megawatt power supply units, dial in the voltage on that tiny set screw, and leave it alone, just watch the voltage come up and the amps come down, then shut the generator off. Set one of them up for 14.8V for bulk charging, and the second one up for 13.8V for float charging, if they are on the pedestal.
Mexico wanderer could provide all your answers, if your friend really wants to do it right, but someone here p*ssed him off royally, so he's gone buh bye... maybe you can email him for a better response, I am sure he'd help your friend out, if your friend wants to pay attention and listen. What you will get from him is a very specific answer, but there are many,many variables to consider what is most important to your friend. Battery life, gasoline and generator expenses, and life, and on and on and on. It really depends on how an*l or lazy your friend is on conserving or wasting money, vs convenience.
If your buddy is a boondocker... Get a Megawatt S15-40 from the guy up the road from you, set it up for 14.8v for him for bulk charging mode, first thing in the morning. Run that first on the generator, then let his WTF CO do the absorption charging on the generator at 13.8v (huge waste of gas) or get enough solar panels later to absorption/float charge the rest of the day, once the generator and megawatt have done the heavy lifting.
Ok, I guess it's a really bad idea to mix battery chemistry's. Even AGM and flooded Lead Acid batteries. Mix and match is bad Juju.
This is the battery I bought for the QRP ham radio for power. LiPO
And today, I just flat out ordered this charger, which equalize charges each cell individually, every time,
Already have a 120V inverter that can handle the charger plug in. Was hoping there was another way, but I guess this is the best way for what I have.
Got a pair of Hondas that are over 10 years old. I do what he said. And yes, they start up on the 2nd or 3rd pull each spring!Mine start on the 12th pull.
After I drain the carb, mine is a 12 or 13 pull job too, then next time I need to fill the bowl and get it to run. Gotta let the fuel pump do it's job.
BTW, when I drain the carb, once drained, I leave the motor switch in the "off" position, flip the choke to cold start position, and pull the starter handle another 3 or 4 times, to suck all the gas out of all the jets in the carb also. Anyone with a small outboard knows this is standard operating procedure, suck the jets dry of fuel also.
Niner says, "Mix and match is just plain stupid engineering design."
So I suspect this thread is not serious
That was on solar panels.... this is chemistry.
Why don't you think it's serious? I want power for my ham radio. I need at least 13.1V input at my Elecraft KX3 to get 12.8V under load after the safety diode, to get a full 15w output on Tx. And the "swear word edited" PWM charge controller bleeds RFI like crazy, so I have to shut the solar panel down while doing radio work.
Why won't it work?
I'd get all the same size and brand panels, wire them parallel, and one big controller, and be done with it. Mix and match is just plain stupid engineering design. Do it right, or don't do it at all with a mismatch. I don't know, it just seems like common sense to me to do it that way.
Would you build a multi cylinder engine with different sized bores in the engine block to make power, when they are all connected and bolted on to the same crank? Thought so.