Easiest explanation is absorbsion is the ceiling voltage after which the battery will see Float maintenance voltage.
Pianotuna most reputable AGM OEMs specifically recommend a high bulk charge rate. 14.4 - 14.6 or the positive plate active surface will become compromised.
Bulk charge rate in amps, voltage, or both, on an AGM that is acid rich, not acid starved?
Good for you OP!!! I'm so happy that I don't have to deal with nonsense like this. I research what I want to buy and know what price I am willing to pay. I contact the internet sales departments (car dealership and RV dealership) and get a price via email. No hardball negotiating, no going back and forth, no wasted hours in a dealership, no sudden surprises.
When I bought my Jayco, we had the price hammered out before I came in to give a deposit (they factory ordered for me). While we were making our deposit, my wife casually mentioned that we were paying a couple hundred dollars more than our best quote from RVDirect.com. We had already agreed upon a price that we were perfectly fine with... well the salesman agreed to knock another couple hundred off the price (still a little higher than RVDirect... but not much!). We were super happy with that. Gave our deposit, made sure that the order sheet was correct and left.
They called us 7 weeks later, the trailer was in. We walked in the door, did PDI and looked over everything. We handed our truck keys to them so they could set up the hitch for us. Walked over to the sales office and spent about 10 minutes getting our paperwork and handing over a check. The transaction was short and too the point... we actually still had to wait about 45 minutes for them to set up the hitch.
I couldn't deal with the long and drawn out "sales process". I would lose my mind.
This is how I bought my Palomino Gazelle. No haggle, no regrets, over the internet, offer and acceptance. Bank made a cashiers check, and I drove Friday afternoon to Monday afternoon to practically Chicago, to do the deal. Got to camp in the TT all the way home, well worth it.
Mr.Wizard, I think I will do likewise with my Deka Penn, hit it with 14.2 to 14.4V. Mine too, are flooded acid configuration, not starved acid configuration. And I will float with 13.5V, and absorb charge with 14.0V.
Will also hit it after return from trips with 14.8V and 1x per month.
I've determined that 12.86-12.87V in August heat in my shop seems to be the voltage it holds at, once surface charge dissipates.
I'm not scoping it, nor is Jeff. If he says it's a non issue, I have complete trust in his word, no one else here is in much of a position to dispute what he claims, or has the measuring devices to confirm or deny it.
Time to go camping and test out the new Telecom AGM battery and the Rogue MegaWatt. Until I get back, please play nice in the sandbox together, y'all. You're turning a generous favor into a d*ck dragging contest that's getting ugly about what the majority here consider a non issue with induction or feedback issues.
If I need to view or worry about oscillations, I'll watch DAX do jumping jacks in a fishnet stocking outfit in the street. Yes, images do exist... scope it out yourself, if you must.
Good lord, we are going to bury this gal in stuff that seems simple to us hairy men, that burdens the fairer sex.
a pair of GC-2 batteries has a very small foot print. If your tongue weight is too heavy, store some heavy junk somewhere beyond the axles, to the rear of your trailer, to get things balanced weight wise, properly.
You don't have to be a load master, but you do have to follow instructions with your trailer, the axle manufacturers suggestions, etc. You can't just store stuff whereever it's convenient on a Travel Trailer, it does take some discipline to stay within limits.
mitch I think has a single battery.It's surprising to me nobody has suggested getting another battery.
I guess I'm that nobody... page 1. GC-2's.
OP needs to understand before spending more money, that batteries, solar panels, charge controllers, generators, etc, all need to be balanced and integrated into a complete set of compatible systems, to all work their best together.
She bought the Eu1000i, there's a limit right there, it won't even run her microwave oven.
BTW, you can always hook up your generator and plug in to it to move your slide in and out, instead of running a big wasteful V6 gas motor on your Nissan 4x4.
I have to ask (except for the lack of a face plate mounting)
How is this any different than a work bench power supply, with vernier knobs for voltage control, mounted in the face plate and "cabled" to the circuit board
Do you mean like a Variac? I don't know, I'll let Salvo explain with a professional opinion.
LOL, I don't give sh*t what happens to you're PS.
It appears to me you two think this is a pissing match. However, I just gave my professional opinion. Do with it what you want. Not going to waist my time with non appreciative, cocky people.
...if you are really curious and can't wait, get a MegaWatt, mod it yourself and find out for us.... otherwise some patience is in order, and that's if SCVjeff doesn't have a lot of better things to do with what limited spare time he has. He did this for me as a big favor, I don't want my posting up of the favor he gave me becoming a pizzing contest between a couple of EE guys, so if you have questions, PM each other, or not, if out of respect for each other.
Thank you for your professional opinion. I guess modifying these power supplies is to be frowned upon, then, until more is known.
if I roast a $50 power supply that I modified, I'll post up and just buy another stock one, and leave it stock. It will have been a cheap lesson, in the grand scheme of things, in my lifetime.
Using the OE pot at max 1K as a pull down resistor, this means LEAVING the oe pot in place, an open circuit to the remote pot becomes a moot point. The control circuit will default to the original pot setting. I am more concerned with inductance than I am with ESD which should NOT be a concern if the circuit is fully shielded, grounded and sealed.
Don't know how much experience you have with lightning but I have seen s frightening amount of voltage induced into isolated circuits. Long lengths of wire, coils, transformers, you name it. The E level is not harmful to humans indeed I doubt whether it could be felt at all, but to an ultra-sensitive circuit the risk isn't worth ignoring.
UN-flat on a 20mv scale is rather loose terminology. However now I am musing the validity of screening the two Megas using a basic Faraday shield. Nicaragua is a hell of a bad place to discover circuit design weaknesses or vulnerabilities.
Sorry Niner, I was using euphemisms to describe tolerating or weighing an unknown risk versus an unknown hazard. For a general idea of one electronic phenomenon, Google ELECTRONIC TANK CIRCUIT, read and understand what it means.
One little, two little, three little millivolts. Four little, five little, six little millivolts...
There's not a lot of lightning storms in Los Angeles, proper. In the desert, further east, during monsoon season, yes. My experience with lightning is that once, while fly fishing with a 9 foot graphite fly rod while on Hot Creek near Mammoth Lakes, as a warm moist gulf of Mexico front pushed in from Nevada to the east, into a cold front coming out of Alaska, I saw it start pouring rain, the baetis emerger hatch went wild and the bite went wide open sub surface. Withing about 6 or 7 minutes, in the rain, with soaked pull over in the summer, I felt the hair on my hands, arms, back of my neck, everywhere, start standing up, while casting.
I immediately set my fly rod down, and crawled under some rocks in the Gorge there, a distance away. I did not want to be the tallest object with the least amount of resistance to complete the circuit.
Here I though I was done with this topic.
The worst case scenario for any PS is turning it into an oscillator. I'm not saying that's the case there, but after the mod, the PS should be tested for oscillator tendencies. After all, the cable is connected to the most sensitive area within the PS.
You can minimize noise injection by limiting the cable length to <1.5" and using a bracket to mount the pot. Now there's no human body contact with the cable.
If there is oscillation, it's most likely not going to affect the battery as it is a huge capacitor. Perhaps you now have a "pulse charger". The oscillations may however exceed the limits of some of the components within the PS. That would be the primary concern.
Before doing anything further, I would test the output (unloaded) with a scope (ac setting, 200 mV/div). If the trace is flat, even when grabbing the cable or pot, then no further work in required.
Another potential problem is if one of the pot cables breaks off. What happens to the output voltage? Does it go to zero volts or does it go sky high? Or is it limited to a safe value? If it goes high you'll hear the output caps go pop. The PS reliability definitely decreased with the added pot. Mounting the pot to a bracket will help a lot.
The pot, in this case is most likely set it and forget it. The pot will be mounted to the case with a roughed up surface on the case and on the bottom of the pot, with some Shoe Goo. It will be permanently attached.
I baby my equipment, the possibility of failure at a solder joint is none to none. If you disconnect the continuity of this circuit due to a broken circuit, the voltage drops, if you complete the circuit with no resistance, the voltage goes to 15.66V or thereabouts. With the circuit broken, what do you think is going to happen to DC input? It goes to nothing, or not?
I am about to head out on a 2 week trip, and SCV has bigger fish to fry right now with the wife's AC in her car being down, it being the weekend, and the temps being triple digits down here, so, if you are really curious and can't wait, get a MegaWatt, mod it yourself and find out for us.... otherwise some patience is in order, and that's if SCVjeff doesn't have a lot of better things to do with what limited spare time he has. He did this for me as a big favor, I don't want my posting up of the favor he gave me becoming a pizzing contest between a couple of EE guys, so if you have questions, PM each other, or not, if out of respect for each other.
Breaking News, WFCO insists their 3 stage only uses 2 stages and actually only 1 to charger, bulk is rare!!!
I read the press release.
Is this good, bad, or a lie?
It's good if you park at a pedestal at a paid RV park. It's bad if you dry camp alot and charge your battery off of a Generator. Travel trailer companies seem to think us folks in small travel trailers seem to be willing to pay 35-$75 a night for one person to stay overnight in an RV park, which I find rather retardead, myself. I bought the TT to save some money, keeping me out of expensive overnight lodging. The RV parks are for the motor home and 5th wheel crowd hauling the wife or the whole family, where value is added for being less expensive than a suite or two rooms.
Hence the Travel Trailer crowd, as well as the boondockers and dry campers, have completely different battery needs and charging requirements and set ups from the RV park and pedestal crowd, which is who the TT builders build for.
The rare times I pay to go to the RV park, I feel an inferiority complex with my little 21 ft travel trailer compared to all the behemoths sucking off the 50 amp outlets with all their multiple push outs, like I don't belong there, I'm dragging down the property value or something.
...For dry camping, despite being labeled only 30 amps, the Iota DML 30 with the 14.7V cable installed is a better unit for quickly getting your batteries charged up, without overloading your Eu1000i..
I searched for DML30, but could only find Iota DLS30. Is there a difference, or is the DLS a newer version?
Which of these would better suit my needs?
Here's the link to the web page:
MY mistake, DLS 30 it is. You would prefer the IQ4 version. When you plug it in, you want the light blinking rapidly, urgently, to indicate it is charging in bulk mode, 2.466V per cell rate. This is when it's on your Honda Eu1000i.
Another side note, start your generator up and let it warm up a bit for a couple of minutes before you plug in that Iota or PD 9245... gotta let things warm up a bit and get lubricant up to operating temperature before that little Iota starts sucking a possible 7.4 amps out of the Honda's 7.7 amp capabilities at startup. Pretty normal for the generator to get a much louder exhaust note and labor under the load initially.
Keep your motor oil clean and change it regularly also, that charge controller is going to run it pretty hard while charging your battery.
I wouldn't call it a non-issue until you've verified the output has no excessive ripple. You can't see that with a dc meter. You need a scope set to ac and 200 mV/div. If that's flat, THEN there's no problem.
I am going to assume max ripple at max watts. Some data was provided except for your thoughts regarding max permissible ripple in relationship to near perfect <2.0 MV. You wrote you specialize in power supply design. So surely there must be a worry-point with regard to ripple on this section of the circuit.
Yeah I have to play 'Fraidy Cat because of where I live. In theory a strong bolt of nearby lightning can influence a hypersensitive circuit. So call me chicken. It depends on Salvo's answer. Max mv ripple permitted.
Might as well buy a couple of meters of shielded pair wire. Don't forget Niner your plastic rheostat itself is a coil subject to inductance. I have seen bad juju results of circuit resonance ringing and I ain't too keen on shortcutting and getting whacked by an inside straight.
I've no idea what you're saying about shortcuts , getting whacked by an inside straight. Have to put it in laymen's terms for me Mex, not type in hyperbole.
I don't camp and run the generator outside when it's raining and I hear thunder in the distance. It gets shut off and pulled inside, out of the rain. Very basic rule of thumb for me. Portable Honda means it's under constant supervision by me when charging, lest it grow legs and walk off. So I tie flys or what ever for an hour or so if necessary, while the megawatt does it's thing.
mitch I think has a single battery. If she is willing to start the generator for any heavy loads--such as a coffee pot, then solar can pretty much provide the RV with all the energy she needs during the day.
I think I read somewhere before that she was camping in heavy forest in Oregon or Washington in the evergreens and shade.