After 4 hours this morning at 14.8 battery was taking two amps the whole time. I suspended charging for the day because I had to leave. Is this As Good As It Gets? I will test SG and load test tomorrow.
No, that is not as good as it gets. What you probably need now is a desulphation charge regime. Do a Google search on it to see how to do one manually. It will require some close supervision, you will need to bring the battery up to a 16.0V state of charge to do so.
Better yet, start your own thread on how to do so.
For what it is worth, I have a portable panel where the controller is mounted under the panel, semi-protected from the rain. And then I put a stout small ziploc bag around the controller for extra protection -- it does not appear to retain heat.
So far, so good -- it has made it ok through several thunderstorms.
But a really waterproof unit would be better -- I would not have to worry at all.
Man, do I love that little 120 watt panel. We just spent a month of boondocking and never had to fire up the generator once! What a luxury to be able to turn on as many lights as we want. (All LED, and of course we turn them off when not needed.)
I told ya it would be a perfect fit for your usage!
Mex, what is the lowest voltage a MegaWatt will goto with a 500 OHM potentiometer?
I get that these will mostly be in thee 14.5v range where the losing some bottom end does will not matter, but I'd personally hate to not be able to go as low as the low 13's.
When I replaced the 1K ohm pot( measured at 973 ohms) with a 10 turn pot(1024 ohms) On my Meanwell, my minimum voltage dropped from 13.23 to 13.12v. More resistance = lower voltage, Zero resistance = max voltage.
I think I would lose the lower end of My MeanWell voltage range with a 500 ohm pot, making it useless floating flooded batteries, perhaps even too high for my AGM.
I feel the 10 turns pot 1K ohm is precise enough I can dial in voltage to 0.01v easily enough, and The Meanwell rsp-500-15 has a 6+ volt range of adjustment with a 1K ohm pot.
What is the max voltage of the Megawatt? Trojan now specs 16.2v equalization voltage.
Perhaps those wanting more than 15.5v for flooded battery Equalization, might want a Meanwell rsp-500-15. 40 amps, power factor corrected, and a 13.12 to 19.23 voltage range, but also twice the price of the Megawatt.
1k ohm with turn counter
You guys are almost funny.
I just went in the shop, didn't have any 1/4", but just hack sawed a 3/8 (3.75) rod in 8 seconds. Don't know the type, but zero magnetic. It was a pin out of a Motor Guide (Mercury) trolling motor.
I don't even own a hacksaw any more. I have an angle grinder just for cut off wheels, and another for grinding wheels. I have a sawzall for when the angle grinder won't work. (rare)
Same here. Chop saw, sawzall, or angle grinder.
You should know
Fcc regs are all about commercial communication interference
Not about home remote control low power receivers
Which are intentionally less sensitive and short range (so almost any kind of rf can block them)
Cree certifies it won't internet with your tv or your cellphoneThe claim they are Part.15 compliant. But regardless, they did what they did so I took the analyzer home and ran a bunch of tests from the coffee table, and another group of the same tests siting on the curb out front of the house, and you know how far that is..
I sent these pix to CREE and they ended up calling me with their engineering team as well as some folks in legal. They tried to run the call claiming they are 100% compliant and I must have other issues, until I mentioned sending those pix to my new field enforcement buddy at the FCC just to get his take on it all. The room got very quiet. In the end they sent me twice the number of lamps I originally bought that were just as bad, I sent the pix to the FCC, and took a trip to ALL for a bag of Ferrite coils.
Any of us here messing with LEDS are quite aware of the issues they can cause. I was just shocked that these commercially produced lamps were as sloppy as they were.
BTW- I'll see if I can find those again. You wont like what you see
Dude, you are a major sh*t stirrer. I haven't had problems with my Cree's yet, and they are all over the house, but I haven't installed one yet in my garage door opener. Maybe I should try a Phillips in there instead.
It will be very interesting watching this with FCC and how this plays out. I'm going to make a big batch of popcorn now, and subscribe to this thread. Your curiosity is killing you, Jeff.
Are you running the ferrite beads on the cords of all the appliances that are acting like antenna's of fussy rf devices? If so, are the ferrite beads working, stopping the rf interference? Model or size or specs of the ferrite beads?
What size, wattage and color are your "bad" lamps? You can text me instead, if you like.
Thanks I'll try putting a load on it and running it with seafoam for a few hours
I prefer to put in the right amount of seafoam on a full tank of absolutely fresh gasoline. Then I run it for an hour a day under heavy load. Carb needs the down time to soak and saturate with the seafoam mix in it for a few 23 hour periods, to do the job right. 2-4 days of that should do it.
As a contractor and as a handyman, I've had too many jobs where "the customer supplies all the parts" go bad, all the parts aren't there, the customer doesn't know what is necessary, and starting a job and having to go on a parts hunt or come back at a later date drives my costs and travel time up.
You either know what you are doing, design it yourself, and the laborer, unlicensed provides the grunt work, for cheap, or you don't know what you are doing, hire a licensed professional, pay for their expertise, and do the job right, the first time.
400 watts for a 5th wheel, most of them that I see are 30 feet plus in length, sounds like too little, to me, especially for winter time use.
This is a half baked idea. You're gonna get what you paid for. Not much. No one here has seen your 5th wheel, getting pricing over the internet, as such, is a complete joke.
As an aside, as a general contractor that has built a few custom homes, and done plenty of remodels, my Travel trailer was built by Amish employees in Michigan. Their work is no better than stuff built by Mexicans by Eclipse in Riverside, CA, or Mexicans at Lance in Lancaster CA, none of which speak English as a first language. The quality of construction by them is junk, mass produced cr@p. Built to a price point, and built to fail within a decade or a bit longer.
A few trades they suck at are plumbing, electrical, cabinetry and finish carpentry, IMHO. They have dangerously low standards on electrical in particular. Don't ask me how I know.
Having an AGM that is nothing like what you guys are buying, a surplus Telecom, very thick, very few plates that's about 150ah and weighs a whopping 105 pounds and is designed to last 10 years, the DEKA I run has some different requirements in recharging.
4 or 5 days of 150w 8.5 amps solar panel in a row does not give it what it needs to get things stirred up and fully recharged. On the 5th or 6th day, it sees the Megawatt, set at 14.4V, first thing in the morning, for a couple of hours on the generator. The battery will take a maximum of 20 to 21 amps at 14.4V. It will be slow in dropping the amps down at this voltage, at least an hour. You can't rush recharging it. The battery temp increase is minimal, as in hardly noticeable, when shot with an IR temp gun, maybe 4 or 5 F temp rise.
I absolutely love having that RC battery charger meter in line with my MegaWatt, to tell me exactly what is going on, V wise and Ah wise. It takes all the guess work out of what the state of charge is with the battery.
2 or 3 hours on the MegaWatt at 20-21 amps restores the battery. End of trip, it sits on the MegaWatt at home until I see a .75ah draw at 14.4V, then I shut the MegaWatt off, and let it sit, fully top charged. 72 hours after a full recharge, the battery, at around 80F, will show 12.88V
The battery chemistry will take what ever amps you can give it, and self limit itself. Watch the heat, don't let it get too hot, and then watch the amp take rate as it finishes recharging. If your battery has it's temperature rising, you need to back off on the voltage a bit, so it doesn't make heat.
It's not rocket science here, just take notes on a new battery and what it does, what it's results are, and file them away for reference. I can't and don't run heavy inverter loads on my telecom battery. It wasn't designed for it. It was designed for low and slow amps drawn over long periods of time. It works fine for me, in my 21 ft travel trailer, as a single battery. No toaster or microwave or electric coffee for me, unless it's on the Eu2000i generator.
My rig is small, my needs are small, but everything is scaleable, to a certain extent. 40 or 50 amp hours pulled in 24 hours is a huge power hog day for me, I am usually closer to 25-40. I've had the battery a year now, still doing great. Mex tells me 9+ years to go on it.
Can't speak for RV's, but for my cars, when reshod with shock absorbers and going through all new bushings doing a complete suspension R&R when all the rubber has gone bad, I've been most satisfied with Koni's. Bilsteins gas I had on my Jetta were harsh. The dampening valving on the Koni's was just much better. I did not get Sport models, I bought Koni Reds, oil dampening. Very satisfied with the ride.
https://play.google.com/store/apps?utm_source=na_Med&utm_medium=hasem&utm_content=Nov1215&utm_campaign=Evergreen&pcampaignid=MKT-DR-na-us-all-Med-hasem-ap-Evergreen-May0315-1-SiteLink%7cONSEM_kwid_43700006873862237&gclid=CNDI37O-lM8CFZkdfwodUNgJzA&gclsrc=dsGooIf you are on the road, try "TV Antenna Helper" on your Android, via "Google Play Store"
There are 2 circuits in most newer houses, 15 amp and 20 amp.
15 amps x 120 volts = 1800 watts.
20 amps x 120 volts = 2400 watts.
They produce heaters with a max of 1800 watts which could run on a 15 amp circuit but it would be maxed out and could trip the breaker. It would be better if you could run it on a 20 amp circuit.
How many amps is the wiring/circuit that you plan to run it on? If it's 15 amp I would probably lean more to 1500 watts or less. It's one of those things that you may have to try. If returning the item is a hassle that may matter too.
I always placed mine on the open oven door so it might not catch the rig on fire if it goes into melt down as I have had 2 of them do that over the years. Some consider them a temporary solution for heating until a proper heating system can be sized. Some will only use them while awake!!!!
Any breaker should NEVER run more than 80% of it's rating, if run in continuous mode, which is what an electric heater pulls. So a 15 amp breaker circuit should be limited to 12 amps continuous, and a 20 amp breaker to 16 amps continuous.
1987 Toyota Xtra Cab SR5 4x4 with EFI. 24.2 MPG lifetime average on true gas. 21.8 MPG when E10 arrived everywhere. I know my numbers are correct and fact, as I logged every single fillup, gallons bought, miles traveled, topped off and brimmed to the neck, each and every fillup. E10 sucked... nothing but filler waste, doing nothing but taking away 10% of your MPG's. I hated the stuff, made my fillups more frequent and more expensive.
Ethanol is fluff in your fuel tank, a large percentage of alcohol is, by weight, oxygen. Why would you want to carry around oxygen, when you can get it free for ignition from the air intake? Therein lies the fallacy. Splitting hydrocarbons and taking free oxygen from the air makes energy. Providing oxygen in the fuel is just plain stupid, from a chemical reaction point of view. It adds expense, while not providing energy to propel you forward. Dumb, really, really dumb.
Not everybody runs their generator or PD charge controller at sea level. Or on pure gasoline versus less power producing 10% ethanol with gasoline. Gasoline cut with 10% ethanol definitely cuts back on maximum generator HP and load carrying characteristics.
We started a 6 month work kamper job Mount Pleasant South Carolina.
He is going to be in SC, he doesn't need Winter treatment.
You are correct 'ish...
Winter additives are usually better at dealing with condensation and water in the tank.The "deicing" additives in what could be called "winter formula" are the same additives that keep moisture out of your fuel tank, put it in suspension in the fuel, and allow all of it to go through your fuel system safely and out your tail pipe.
Just because it is labeled winter deicing formula does not mean that it is restricted to winter use only. Anyone in hot humid climates should run the stuff with their fuel from time to time to keep their fuel dry. And consider it preventative maintenance with a full tank of fuel if you put your RV into storage.
I've never heard of winter deicing formula diesel. It really sounds like you are describing winter blend gasoline.
Summer diesel is straight #2. Straight #2 diesel will start to jell when temperatures drop below about 20 degrees. Winter blend diesel is formulated to resist jelling when temps drop below the magic 20 degree mark, which is the point where wax will start to form and clog fuel filters - and stopping you dead in your tracks until your vehicle can be towed into a nice warm garage (ask me how I know).
There are two ways to formulate winter blend diesel - either add chemicals that lower the jell point or add a percentage of #1 diesel (#1 resists jelling to much lower temps). The 'mix' changes as the calendar moves farther into the winter season - less chemicals or #1 in Nov/Dec and more in Jan/Feb. In my experience, cutting #2 diesel with #1 works much better then going the chemicals route.
#1 diesel has far less lubrication qualities then does #2 and also less BTUs (less power and MPG). Keep in mind that your REALLY expensive engine high pressure fuel pump is lubricated only by diesel fuel and you'll understand why it's not a good idea to run #1 diesel in the summer.
** On edit - I've read this about 3 times and I now see that the above post is more about additives then the fuel itself. I think if the tank is full, then there will be no condensation problem. If there is, it will settle to the bottom and you can then drain it from your filters. Pleasure boaters with large diesel tanks in their boats store fuel over the winter and then go merrily on their way in the spring with no problems. Just not a big deal. If we were discussing ethanol based gasoline (ethanol will attract water). I would definitely recommend some type of additive. My comments regarding summer and winter blend diesel are still valid.
Deicing formula does three things... it lowers the gel point and waxing point of D2, which is normally set at around 7F to 10F for waxing. The deicing portion takes any moisture/water in your fuel,that collects on your fuel filter, that below 32f, the water would freeze up and gum up your fuel filter from flowing diesel fuel, with ice particles. It puts the moisture in suspension of the fuel with a much lower freezing point for the water/additive blend held in suspension. This prevents your fuel filter from icing up and clogging with water, below 32F. All diesel fuel holds some water in suspension, it's just that additive allows it to hold more, or a larger %, and allows it to pass through your fuel system in freezing weather without clogging or damaging your fuel system.
There's a reason there a heaters in your fuel filter system. Not all diesel fuel systems have water drains in the bottom of them. Most do, but on sedans and SUV versions, there is no drain. Hence when your fuel filter gets changed out, the canister needs to be drained dry with a turkey baster, to suck all the moisture out of the bottom of the fuel filter canister.