Perhaps your charging loses were greater than 4% to recharge? Your charging losses will be greater as you approach a 100% SOC. Takes a lot of losses to get that last 3,4 or 5% back into the battery, just due to battery chemistry, and not a lot of sulfur sitting on the plates to put back into solution.
It's good to let your solar panels take the hit late in the afternoon for those charge losses to top the batteries off, instead of your generator burning a bunch of gasoline for a whole lot of nothing being added.
I thought the key in this type of test was to read the voltage while the load was on. That way you don't have to worry about whether your surface charge has really dissipated (I know mine can take hours). Is that wrong?
I have killed an AGM battery or two by taking them down to 10.5 with a 20 amp load. Whether they were already on their way out, I do not know. Do you guys routinely go that low, for testing or cycling?
You take it to 10.5, you wrecked it, if left in that state of charge (none) for very long. Permanent damage past about 11.5V. Best to at all times keep it at 12.1V or above, at all times, and get it charged back up as soon as possible if it does get down to 12.1V.
I love it...
Walk into a tire store and they sock a customer fifteen dollars a tire California tire disposal fee, even though I intend to take the tires out of the country to be mounted. Fifteen dollars a tire? Not one freakin' cent of that fee is used to dispose of tires. It all goes into the general fund. They should grind the tires up into powder and use it as an additive to roadway slurry coatings. Give it away as the fifteen dollars would certainly pay for the process and transport.
Oh wait. Can't do that! That would make "sense", and "sense" is toxic to government.
Buy in AZ instead, and have shipped to San Diego. Then have them installed at a Walmart in SD.
For best results, start and run the motor with the choke on. Do it for 1 or 2 minutes, every hour, for a few days. The choke being on will suck more fuel through the jet, creating a better flushing effect to get all the jets cleaned and devarnished.
If that doesn't work, time to tear down the carb and clean the whole thing up properly, with carb cleaner and a pressurized air hose in the jets.
I'm interested in that Scan Gauge technology but I'm wondering if there is any decent data coming off my 03 Cummins that can be read?
In 2003 the OBD technology was just starting.
Anyone have a 2003 Dodge Cummins usingnthe Scan Gauge or other reader?
OBD II technology started in 1996, not 2003.
History of On Board Diagnostics, credit to VW for inventing it.
The Nomadic life style sounds appealing. Touareg pretty much means Nomadic Wanderer, so perhaps I really did buy the right tow vehicle for my 21 ft TT, but alas, 21 ft of TT would be a bit light for living in and full timing out of.
Solar, to me, is a blessing. I keep my portable, a watt of solar panel per amp hour of true deep cycle battery. But being a Boy Scout by nature, and believing in "Be Prepared", the Honda generator is there, too, for those non sun shiny days, and also so I can run the microwave if need be.
Solar is great, non smelly, non noisy and unobstrusive, but it's but one item in your bag of tricks to make electricity. The generator is back up, better to have it and not need it, than need it, and not have it.
You know a gravity fill is topped off when it overflows and backfills onto your shoes. Most of them have an overflow vent that starts spitting a bit of water back at you when you get close to topped off, your sign to slow down the rate of feed of water to fill the tank up.
I was one of those that was "against" DEF on a diesel. While I still don't like the complexity it adds, I do agree is does add mpg via fewer regens.
DEF allows far more efficient engine tunes, allowing more MPG's, it's just a different method of treating the NOX that doesn't require additional consumption of fuel, instead using a SCR treatment method for NOX.
The more efficient a diesel engine tune is, the more heat it generates. NOX is a by product of those higher heat levels, and a SCR NOC treatment system is just another way to skin the cat, and keep our air that we all breathe cleaner.
I like keeping the air I breathe clean in the clean air places I go RV'ing.
I think alot of you get this confused but DEF has nothing to do with the DPF. The DPF is a soot filter/trap and DEF is injected in exhaust to lower emmissions.
Diesel Exhaust Fluid is used to lower Nitrous Oxide emissions. There is no change in fuel consumption when it is in use.
Diesel Particulate Filter is located right where it is hot, right after the Turbocharger outlet. Diesel fuel is injected into it on the exhaust stroke, or on a separate injector, and is used to ignite the collected carbon soot. It is a lot like lighting charcoal briquettes, it takes a bit of heat to start the ignition, then once the ignition is started, the flames are fanned by additional air flow created by additional turbo boost being fed through the motor and out the exhaust.
Golf car batteries get blast charged 2 to 3x a day, go back on the charger as soon as the golf cart acts sluggish, and then someone drives it back and grabs a fresher charged cart. Then end of the day, into the shed for a full overnight charge session.
Sweeper battery aka the T-1275, runs all night, sweeping floors at stores while everyone else sleeps, until run down. Then back to the shop for a full 14-16 hour recharge session to be ready again for the next nights work. Some golf carts run on T-1275's but in my opinion, it's not in the same league speed charging wise, as a T-105. A T-105's design screams "abuse me" on the charging cycle, it has a lot of battery acid in it, it's not confined to dimensions of height, as it sits easily with plenty of space under the seat, so the height dimension of the design is not a recharging constraint. Not so with the T-1275... it's stuffed into a compact tiny floor sweeper, it's dimensions are a design constraint, so I assume you need to recharge it accordingly, slowly. Good candidate for solar recharging all day on sunny days, to get it fully top charged, but in my observation, it takes it's sweet mary anne time to get those last few percentage points to truly get it top charged. Not getting it top charged daily is where the cumulative damage starts on a T-1275. It gets stubborn fast if it doesn't get those last few points daily. IMHO.... of course. But I'll defer to mexicowanderers input... my battery had been pretty worked before I received it.
My take is that the T-1275 is perhaps a little bit acid starved. It prefers low and slow near the top charge portion. It takes a day for the Specific gravity to pop up after an EQ session if you can get it to 16V.
I had to do 3 or 4 equalize sessions over maybe 10 days to finally get my abused battery to pop the SG up on the weak cell and get it in spec, and I seem to recall it finally happened on a hot summer day, like 95F + that day to get all the sulfur off. So, in a sense, it was stubborn.
My observation is not to abuse it, don't get the battery below 60% SOC, and it's a professional grade battery that requires professional recharging care daily to get it topped off, not 90%, nor 95%, or 98. I find an hour late in the day to 15.0V if on a small solar panel gets it down to about 4 ah from 9.5 to 9 when it will take all my 150W panel will put out. If I do this daily on a 14 day trip, it will not take much of an EQ charge, time wise, to have it desulfated and ready for storage. Mine are rather gassy, but I don't seem to be losing water much at all... champagne bubbles on 14.8V, a bit faster, about same size at 15.0V. Stirred, and that's what it takes to get fresh electrolyte near the plates that can take the sulfur off of them. It is a slow process, for the last few percentage points of fully charged on these.
YMMV, find out what works for you. Stay on top of that weak sister cell. I may give up a little life pushing mine to 15.0V for 30 minutes to an hour daily, or maybe not... I don'f full time, I want my battery in tip top shape before going into storage fully disconnected.
Is it a good battery for me? You bet. Is it a little fussy? You bet. Will it last? Mine has an H1 build date, and was worked hard on a golf course for at least 1.5 years here in So Cal, where they golf year round, weather wise.
Probably a good fit for you, if as Mex says, you figure it out quickly, what makes it tick, and what keeps it happy, baby sitting wise. It will need a bit of baby sitting, IMHO... not for everyone, like a T-105. The T-105 charges easily, efficiently, and needs not much care for long life. I think a T-1275 is a different animal. A little more quirky, and a little more stubborn to get the last few points of top charge into it.
Put a nice heavy load on the battery bank when the panels are in the sun.
What did you choose for voltage set points?
I left the "ceases charging" parameter at 13.8 for now. I see where a couple of folks change theirs depending on circumstances which sounds like a little of a pain to remember. My panels are always there whether I am on shore power or not so I am open to suggestions.
Try 14.5V camping, 13.2V storage.
Write it down on paper, a small piece, then put some clear packing tape over the paper, on the solar charge controller, to seal it in place. Couldn't be easier to remember.
You don't get all the luxuries of home in an RV without a little bit of daily maintenance and routine. This is not plug and play, so get used to it, now.
If you can get a T-1275 to fit, should do a little bit better. Just stay away from sucking a full 75 amps off of it between recharge cycles, and the life should increase measurably in days. I'd try to keep max draw no more than 60 amps out of it.
I'd also figure out right quick what it takes to get it near top charge darn near daily, Voltage wise. The T-1275 will take low amps and time to get that top charge back into it.
Hope it fits in your RV.
The 150W poly solar panel makes about 8.5 to 9 amps, and appears to be a perfect match for my T-1275 when aimed several times a day, portable style.
Water cool a Honda Generator and put a common rail HPFP and injection system on it, and you can add a lot more efficiency to that motor, perhaps another 40 or 50%. I am lucky to squeeze 25 or 26MPG's out of a 3.6L gas Touareg, 33-35 is the norm for the 3.0L TDI diesel, once properly warmed up, which usually takes a 12 to 15 mile freeway drive for all the systems to get close to proper operating temperatures. Once all systems are up to operating temp, there is no comparison. Diesel, all the way. No soot, no stinky odor, nothing. Then we can talk about torque under load, also. Hard to beat a stroker motor that is under bore long stroke from square bore /stroke.
I want just a 12v charger if it comes to a new model. Size weight and sound of a Honda 1000 with 50 amp 14.5 volt output. Maybe even a timer to shut down as desired.
I'd just like an inexpensive 30 amp power factor corrected stand-alone 12 volt charger to power via my Honda EX650. Right now I use the little Honda to simultaneously power the stock converter in parallel with a cheap and old Sears 2-10-50 charger set on it's 50 amp setting.
This combination will only pump around 12-15 amps into our coach batteries due to the terminal voltage on the batteries not winding up high enough. Even on it's 50 amp setting, the old Sears charger just cannot raise the batteries' terminal voltage high enough above the output voltage of the converter so that the batteries will draw more. Of course that is also a good thing ... because if the batteries tried to draw more amps from the two charging sources ... the Sears charger might run too hot and go into thermal shutdown or burn itself up.
P.S. I'm curious: What sound from a Honda 1000 would you like while it's putting out it's maximum power? I'd prefer it's 53 dB sound level at it's maximum power - not it's current 59dB sound level at maximum power.
What the EU1000i makes for power at full load, and noise, the EU2000i will do quite easily in Eco mode and loafing along. My MegaWatt 30 Amp PSU will put the grunt on the Eu1000i, when I first charge for 10 to 20 minutes. Run on the Eu2000i, it's bigger brother is not even phased noise wise with the same MegaWatt 30Amp PSU. 48#'s for the Eu2000i. Might be a little more fuel consumption with the bigger motor. But it's quiet where the Eu1000i is making grunting loaded sounds.
They are topped off. SG 1.275-1.280 on all cells. Resting Voltage coming down now, last checked was 13.9v. Equalized for 2 hours twice, 16.0 volts and amps started at 1.2 and dropped to .1 amp.
Something tells me you are screwing up the batteries on purpose to get out of the house and away from the wife so you can monkey with batteries instead.... ;) Especially on Mother's Day. :S
Maybe it's a plan to get a bigger motorhome. Devious!
Set at 14.5V for starters, and see if you get to 15.0V at the battery terminals when close to fully charged, you might only get 14.8V. Depends on length of run from charge controller to battery terminals, gauge of wires, connectors if any, etc. Some setups create voltage loss, others are so good that you see .3 to .5V gain from that showed. Use a good Digital Multi Meter on the battery terminals to confirm. Amperage charging rate will tell you bit also, with practice.
If you are leaving this attached to the batteries to float charge daily, drop your V down to 13.2 to 13.5 indicated or so. Set the V higher when you are out camping daily, 14.2 to 14.5V for daily recharging.
You could probably "tune" the voltage loss to that actually displayed by running something like 14 gauge or 16 gauge wire, to induce a little more loss from the controller to the battery bank. In doing so, however, you'll lose the ability to almost equalize charge the battery.