I got a cryptic text message from mexicowander at 4:17 AM.
Awoke at 0400 Pulse 29 apparently I have bradychardia due to 3rd bundle branch (total heart) failure.
His health is not good, possibly failing, 3rd bundle branch (total heart failure)... probability of venticular fibrillation (infarction) very high ie, heart attack. Answer is to get north for pacemaker. Not possible until May 3rd, So it's maybe adios amigo.
If any of his posts have helped you, say a prayer on his behalf.
You can lead a horse to water.... but the battery will drink it instead.
Batteries are like your big johnson. If you leave them hooked up, they get drained.
Don't hook up, and they won't get drained empty with no charge left.
+1 Why is this even being discussed?
Because it is possible to wire controller in such a way that it won't control anything :)Why would someone do that?Perhaps to do an equalization recharge on their batteries.
the ease of just pressing a button to start when needed sounds real nice , not to mention running booth AC's...
Not many ( if all ) real world answers here yet...
On edit... Actually , no real word answers7 hours out of a 20# tank. My RV came standard with 4-20# tanks. For 80# total
Efficiency is not the strong point of the LP genset.
However it is great for occasional use.
The trade off in efficiency is there are no gas cans and no stale gas carb. issues to deal with. Genset is very reliable.
I am happy with mt lp Onan.
Keep in mind I am a convenience user. Lunch breaks, Wal mart overnights,
Marina Boon-docking, I do not go off the grid for long stretches. Seldom off the grids for more than 2-3 days.
If you are a heavy user to the point efficiency matters gas or diesel maybe better. But as an occasional user.
The reliability and convenience can't be beat.
Thanks , this is the type of answer I was looking for... I am on shore power 90% of the time... It's for the 2-3 times a year we go boondocking...and for the short stops during travel with the dogs...We can cool down the RV and they can stay there...so basically, we would be the same type of user...so it sounds like 28 hrs at full use out of 2 40# tanks is not out of the question...
Correct 28 hours is a reasonable expectation.
You can leave dogs in RV and go into a restaurant. Or stop for lunch and use A/C and microwave. You can do an overnight at Wal Mart or go off grid for a couple of days without issue.
You can do all of these things without making any special plans or loading up anything. Just be sure your onboard lp tanks are full and your good to go.
So 28 hours out of 4 20# tanks of propane, at 4.6 gallons per tank is 28 hours on 18.4 gallons of propane, or thereabouts.
I agree with Niner, a GC-15 is a six volt battery
NOTE: Thanks to the Golf Car industry 12 volt DEEP cycles are getting easier to find, Check out battery size GC-12 If the size and weight are the same, that's what you have.. Alas, that's all I can tell you.
It's G-15, not GC15, a date code. I've no idea the voltage of the battery.
If Naio has the ability to inspect and work on some of the stuff themselves, I'd say go for it. If anything during inspection before buying it sounds or checks out as being fishy, I would walk, no, run away from it.
Probably need battery, and new tires, for starters. Then an oil and filter change, just to be sure. From there, I'd do the coolant, and then drive it back home and when got home, drain and change the filter on the transmission and the ATF fluid.
That's not gold, it's copper over steel. The better stuff is solid copper, but there is not and never has been gold in any RG/6 coax.
For the antenna; as mentioned, the winning antenna by far is a Batwing/ Wingman, or the new combo. The Razar or Jack simply do not perform as well.
One thing I'm also trying to point out in these antenna threads is the FCC is about to "repack" the entire television spectrum with the intent of retiring off the air, as many stations as possible, and/ or moving them BACK to VHF. Haven't looked at the Razor, but the Jack is a particularly poor performing antenna on VHF. The Batwing is BY FAR a better antenna on VHF
I will second SCVJeff. He builds OTA HDTV systems that broadcast OTA TV signals in major markets here in the Western USA. He has actually measured S/N ratios on most of the brands of TV antenna's out there, because he was curious, and had the tools to measure signal strength also, a rarity these days.
As for the Batwing, I had disbelievers come in to my TT parked up on Plomosa Road in Quartzsite, AZ, the middle of nowhere, with the batwing pointed 54 miles away to a mountain that serves Yuma, AZ TV market. I was pulling in 5 stations while everyone else struggled pointing north to Lake Havasu to get signal. 4 different couples were just dumbfounded why my antenna was pointed in the direction it was, everyone else had theirs pointing north.
Jeff recommended the "TV Antenna Helper" app for my smart phone.
All I can say is that in my travels all over the western USA, UT, ID, MT, WA, OR, CA, NV and AZ, it's a godsend for finding signals and giving you guidance in which way to point your batwing before scanning for TV channels.
FWIW, my TV is a little 24" Samsung 1080p unit that runs on a 14.4V brick that I picked up a couple of years ago at Costco for $165. Very, very happy with the quality of the picture and quality of the tuner in this TV.
Another note...if your signal is not the strongest... cloud cover between you and the antenna can really wipe out a good signal, as can heavy rain between you and the broadcasting antenna. Tune your antenna direction on a clear day if at all possible.
NONE of the posts answer the OP
the question IS who wrote that statement
NOT a debate about gas/compressor or 12v operation
The search function around here is seriously broken for any post much older than a year or a year an a half. A lot of "fix it" and battery maintenance posts have gone "MIA" since the last purge, or whatever it is that happens to data bases when they get corrupted or cleaned up, or servers get changed... of which I don't know enough about. What I do know is that a lot of valuable data posts are gone, unobtanium, deleted. So, there will probably never be an answer to mexicowanderer's question.
Gjac: it's so random it's hard to know what really fixes it. I can but my finger over the home and adjust the flame but obviously not for long. I'll look at the pressure this weekend hopefully and see where it sits.
Randy: the burner chamber is press-fitted into the jet so I can't get anything in there. About all you can do with these is turn them upside down and blow them out. One thing I haven't done is pay attention to when it happens: right at power on when everything is cold, or after it warms up ?
Any way to look inside, or check for burrs, or chads?
RV absorbsion refers do NOT run on 12 volts. They only require milliamps 12 volt to run the controls. 3 way RV refers are NOT designed to be run camping on 12 volt. You MUST have a Truck or hi output charging system to run a 3 way on the 12 volt Heat Element. The 3 way 12 volt heat element is designed to only KEEP the existing temp in the refer and not to cool it down to temp. Doug
/\ That is a goldmine nugget that confirmed what I always thought.
If it's backfiring, you are not getting clean laminar flow and mixing of the air and propane from the orfice, the air bleed mixing ports and then flowing out the openings where it is supposed to burn. Something is causing raw propane to flow backwards to the point of ignition near the igniter, creating the popping sounds when it all burns off, inside the tube.
I wonder if you got a bum part for the new one? Or an alignment issue?
Maybe a burr on the inside, can you run a flex ball hone inside to knock off any burrs near the gas vents where the gas starts burning? Poor or worn press dies not cleanly cutting the vents and leaving burrs?