Heater should be run in "Auto" position only. AC should be run in High fan or Low fan position.
Or read your Dometic owners manual that came with your 5th wheel. Read all the owners manuals that came with it.
The new table/workbench sounded like a good excuse to get you cracking on finishing up the Borg, while sampling your new workbench. Sounds like a win /win to me.
Idle hands are the devil's workshop. Don't go flirting with him.
X2. A little trick I learned about tightening the spindle nut was to try moving the washer behind the nut with a screwdriver, gently of course. If it won't move - too tight. If it moves too easy - too loose. Be sure to rotate the wheel as you tighten it up to make sure everything is seated correctly. Then back off as necessary to find a hole for the cotter pin.
This/\ Tension is correct if you can move the washer with a little bit of resistance under the set nut, with a screwdriver pushing the washer side to side.
Well, if you buy from, I believe, Discount Tire, online, and have them ship from AZ to your place in Dago, you'll avoid a 9 1/4% sales tax. Then run them over to Walmart for installation and balancing. However, no 90k mile warranty, that way. Otherwise, Costco has Michelin on sale right now, with some sort of rebate going on also. Do not know if it ends in Sept or October.
Discount tire, another option
Oh sure, now I have girly batteries........LOL.
They work, they liked to be sucked off daily by your phone, and it's not insulting to you, the user of whatever brand of smart phone is in your pocket, or pocket protector, for the nerds among us.
What's not to like, everyone gets a happy ending?
My Alco axles had black grease in the bearings from the factory. They too, were under filled. My guess is that the shop refilled the bearing through the zerk fittings with the yellow grease.
These are items, I guess, you need to perform yourself, if you want it done right, or at least provide the material and supervise the work actually being done.
""Worst case scenario, extrapolate the missing data, if you must, using trend analysis".
WAIT! YOU CAN'T DO THAT!
That's copyrighted. How my first X used to balance her checkbook!
Oh well... sorry to disappoint... Tri Tip got priority that night. I wouldn't change my choice, or priorities, either.
My battery continues to sit in hot storage of the garage, a weeks worth of temps around 100F, no way to get the battery out of it, and it sits at 12.93V, probably 10 days since last recharged. I will give it an overnight float at 13.5V tonight, perhaps.
Thank you smkettner, for that link... noted.
When I got in a pinch, up in Boise, ID, I went to a Napa and bought a grease gun for the TT, and this to fill it with.
Al-co axles on the TT. 4800# version, I believe.
Napa Auto parts, and Sta Lube.
Navigation is not nice to battery life, on either my Galaxy S4 Verizon, or my S5. It sucks the charge out of them fast, in addition to eating data like no other.
You just need a better phone. My Galaxy S5 would suck the juice and battery like a drunken sailor. My iPhone 6+ not so much. Data use is minimal and so is power. So much so that I went from a dedicated "Hi Power 2A" charger for the GS5 to the regular Ford Sync plug for my 6+. Best upgrade I did going from the junk Android to the iPhone.
Gee, thanks for calling my, and a bunch of other peoples "phones" junk.
Your phones sucked juice like a drunken sailor because you didn't update your apps within a week or two, after every time you got an OTA update of your operating system... which is the phone companies way of making a clueless individuals phone perform poorly, right before a new model phone comes out, to get you to update and be a new adopter.
Which is why I wait 3 weeks to a month before accepting an OTA update.
BTW... I run 3 to 4 days between recharges with an extended battery on either the S4 or the S5. Usually 7 to $8 on ebay, from China. I like to run manly batteries in my smart phones, not girly ones.
You're now on ignore. A new first.
The best wheel bearing and chassis grease is a hassle to get
Lubrication Engineers Almagard 3752
But CHEVRON copied this grease seemingly right down to the molecular level. Their grease is also a deep red color. It lasts forever. Amazing stuff. It is so far better than anything else it makes competition a cruel joke.
Deleted Chevron link, not suitable for use in trailer bearings, dropping point of lube is not 413F, it's 374F, not high enough, like when the brakes are on, with extended down hill drives.
IERC used to be located in Burbank, CA, when I worked for them, until Dynamics Corp of America was acquired by CTS in 1997.
Heat sink catalogue
Of interest, perhaps, fansinks, heatsinks built into fans.
What was the power source for the meter
The megawatt or an independent source
Maybe 0.06 is the power needs of the rc watt meter
It has to use something
I have never checked mine in a no load situation
Power source for the RV Watt Meter is the MegaWatt.
With what I know, now, I am satisfied with .06Amp error in the charging rate. I know the RCWattmeter, for whatever reason, reads an honest 0.10V low, compared to the DMM, at the load side of the RC WattMeter, in the voltage ranges that I charge at, I tested it at various settings under regulation from the MegaWatt.
I have taken readings of both the RC watt meter, and with the Amp clamp, at the same time charging, they are always withing 0.2 Amp of each other at 15, 20, 30, even 38 Amps, when I first fired up the Mega Watt on a 17F Montana Morning T-1275 last year.
Clamp meter is a Uni_T 203 clamp amp meter. I don't meter enough electrical to warrant the BIGNUM$ price tag of a Fluke Meter yet.
Well, the Amp clamp of mine confirmed that the RC Watt / Amp meter is accurate enough down to lower milliamps. Clamp meter shows. .07Amp flowing to the battery during 13.5V maintenance charge voltage, and the RC Amp /watt meter shows .13 Amp flowing to the battery, both metering at the same time.
With nothing hooked up to the RC watt meter, and the Mega watt turned on, the RC meter shows .06 amps, with no load at all... I don't know what or why this is showing such flow, with nothing there, but it is what it is.it may also be a phantom. Do you have a Zero button on the Amp Clamp ? With currents that low I think I would opt for looping through the DVM
Yes, amp clamp does have a zero out feature, I have verified this reading 5 or 6 times now... I always zero out, and get wire as very close to center in the clamp opening as possible, to minimize variance.
No, the Minder doesn't have any settings. However the next thing I'm going to get is a Megawatt so I can set the charge voltage. I am more of a "hands on" kind of guy, so I think the MW will be perfect for me. I realize the Interstate is not going to be a great battery, especially since it is a marine battery. For dry camping I'll be using a pair of Trojan T105s, but since I have the Interstate, I want to keep it in good shape and I'll bring it with me as a backup.
My observation, purely... the Trojans don't need a back up, the Interstate does.