Rome wasn't built in a day, either. But as an early adopter of the Megawatt PSU in 30 amp configuration, I am super glad that as a boondocker, I went this route for my battery. This is one of those things that is worth doing right, and worrying less about the condition of your RV batteries.
It's a non UL approved Electric Vehicle Station "controller" that runs on 120 - 240V. It requires a dedicated 50 amp 240v circuit and breaker, since it runs continuous load at 80% of the circuit breaker rating. That means either your electric car is plugged in, or your RV, off of a pedestal, not both.
It is made and sold by e-motorwerks. Clipper Creek is another quite popular brand of EVSE. Clipper Creek is UL rated and tested. Just in case you burn something down with it and claim it on insurance.
Most current electric vehicle cars in production now are capable of pulling 30 amps at 240V, a few, all Tesla battery and motor based (Older toyota RAV and MB B250) are built with 40 amp capable chargers on board.
This is an engineered system for cutting back amperage with a pilot signal making it safe to plug in and unplug your electric car with out sparking and frying the electric contacts. The pilot signal sends the charger on board a measurement that cuts back the amperage to something very very low on non existent, before the contacts at the plug disconnect.
I see no reason to even install this unit on your motor home... Get the portable model from Tesla with the J-1772 handle already installed , for all other electric vehicles.
mobile connector bundle
I saw at one point in time that Tesla was selling a J-1772 handled version of this at one time on their website, but I can't seem to find it today.
A 2015 e-Golf SEL owner that's been down this road.
Niner, thanks for that tip on using the panel to equalize -- I will give it a try after we get home from our next trip (which is coming up next week, depending on the weather).
If you have a philips screwdriver on you, you can do it on your camping trip, for a day, last day of the trip, no need to wait.
Profdant139... try this instead.... Wire your battery clamps to the input side of the charge controller from the solar panel, on the back of that portable solar panel. That should give you 17v with sunshine.... but you won't see that at the battery. Monitor the single battery until you see 16.0V at the terminal, on the fully disconnected battery. That should equalize one of the batteries. Swap in and perform the same procedure on the second battery. a 6 amp panel for one day in the sun won't boil off your electrolyte, not this time of year.
Scared the OP off. Profdant... go out and do equalize charges on your batteries, both of them, one at a time. About 5 amp hours constant until the voltage comes up fully to 16.00V, and then unplug. Old style manual battery chargers are capable of doing this. You do need to monitor the voltage at the terminals. Sometimes continuous recharge cycles only to 14.4V require you to pull the batteries, take them home in the garage and massage them with the full 16.0V equalize charge regime, to desulphate them. Group 31 batteries, due to their compromised car shape and size, are notorious for requiring this to be done frequently.
After 4 hours this morning at 14.8 battery was taking two amps the whole time. I suspended charging for the day because I had to leave. Is this As Good As It Gets? I will test SG and load test tomorrow.
No, that is not as good as it gets. What you probably need now is a desulphation charge regime. Do a Google search on it to see how to do one manually. It will require some close supervision, you will need to bring the battery up to a 16.0V state of charge to do so.
Better yet, start your own thread on how to do so.
For what it is worth, I have a portable panel where the controller is mounted under the panel, semi-protected from the rain. And then I put a stout small ziploc bag around the controller for extra protection -- it does not appear to retain heat.
So far, so good -- it has made it ok through several thunderstorms.
But a really waterproof unit would be better -- I would not have to worry at all.
Man, do I love that little 120 watt panel. We just spent a month of boondocking and never had to fire up the generator once! What a luxury to be able to turn on as many lights as we want. (All LED, and of course we turn them off when not needed.)
I told ya it would be a perfect fit for your usage!
Mex, what is the lowest voltage a MegaWatt will goto with a 500 OHM potentiometer?
I get that these will mostly be in thee 14.5v range where the losing some bottom end does will not matter, but I'd personally hate to not be able to go as low as the low 13's.
When I replaced the 1K ohm pot( measured at 973 ohms) with a 10 turn pot(1024 ohms) On my Meanwell, my minimum voltage dropped from 13.23 to 13.12v. More resistance = lower voltage, Zero resistance = max voltage.
I think I would lose the lower end of My MeanWell voltage range with a 500 ohm pot, making it useless floating flooded batteries, perhaps even too high for my AGM.
I feel the 10 turns pot 1K ohm is precise enough I can dial in voltage to 0.01v easily enough, and The Meanwell rsp-500-15 has a 6+ volt range of adjustment with a 1K ohm pot.
What is the max voltage of the Megawatt? Trojan now specs 16.2v equalization voltage.
Perhaps those wanting more than 15.5v for flooded battery Equalization, might want a Meanwell rsp-500-15. 40 amps, power factor corrected, and a 13.12 to 19.23 voltage range, but also twice the price of the Megawatt.
1k ohm with turn counter
You guys are almost funny.
I just went in the shop, didn't have any 1/4", but just hack sawed a 3/8 (3.75) rod in 8 seconds. Don't know the type, but zero magnetic. It was a pin out of a Motor Guide (Mercury) trolling motor.
I don't even own a hacksaw any more. I have an angle grinder just for cut off wheels, and another for grinding wheels. I have a sawzall for when the angle grinder won't work. (rare)
Same here. Chop saw, sawzall, or angle grinder.
You should know
Fcc regs are all about commercial communication interference
Not about home remote control low power receivers
Which are intentionally less sensitive and short range (so almost any kind of rf can block them)
Cree certifies it won't internet with your tv or your cellphoneThe claim they are Part.15 compliant. But regardless, they did what they did so I took the analyzer home and ran a bunch of tests from the coffee table, and another group of the same tests siting on the curb out front of the house, and you know how far that is..
I sent these pix to CREE and they ended up calling me with their engineering team as well as some folks in legal. They tried to run the call claiming they are 100% compliant and I must have other issues, until I mentioned sending those pix to my new field enforcement buddy at the FCC just to get his take on it all. The room got very quiet. In the end they sent me twice the number of lamps I originally bought that were just as bad, I sent the pix to the FCC, and took a trip to ALL for a bag of Ferrite coils.
Any of us here messing with LEDS are quite aware of the issues they can cause. I was just shocked that these commercially produced lamps were as sloppy as they were.
BTW- I'll see if I can find those again. You wont like what you see
Dude, you are a major sh*t stirrer. I haven't had problems with my Cree's yet, and they are all over the house, but I haven't installed one yet in my garage door opener. Maybe I should try a Phillips in there instead.
It will be very interesting watching this with FCC and how this plays out. I'm going to make a big batch of popcorn now, and subscribe to this thread. Your curiosity is killing you, Jeff.
Are you running the ferrite beads on the cords of all the appliances that are acting like antenna's of fussy rf devices? If so, are the ferrite beads working, stopping the rf interference? Model or size or specs of the ferrite beads?
What size, wattage and color are your "bad" lamps? You can text me instead, if you like.
Thanks I'll try putting a load on it and running it with seafoam for a few hours
I prefer to put in the right amount of seafoam on a full tank of absolutely fresh gasoline. Then I run it for an hour a day under heavy load. Carb needs the down time to soak and saturate with the seafoam mix in it for a few 23 hour periods, to do the job right. 2-4 days of that should do it.
As a contractor and as a handyman, I've had too many jobs where "the customer supplies all the parts" go bad, all the parts aren't there, the customer doesn't know what is necessary, and starting a job and having to go on a parts hunt or come back at a later date drives my costs and travel time up.
You either know what you are doing, design it yourself, and the laborer, unlicensed provides the grunt work, for cheap, or you don't know what you are doing, hire a licensed professional, pay for their expertise, and do the job right, the first time.
400 watts for a 5th wheel, most of them that I see are 30 feet plus in length, sounds like too little, to me, especially for winter time use.
This is a half baked idea. You're gonna get what you paid for. Not much. No one here has seen your 5th wheel, getting pricing over the internet, as such, is a complete joke.
As an aside, as a general contractor that has built a few custom homes, and done plenty of remodels, my Travel trailer was built by Amish employees in Michigan. Their work is no better than stuff built by Mexicans by Eclipse in Riverside, CA, or Mexicans at Lance in Lancaster CA, none of which speak English as a first language. The quality of construction by them is junk, mass produced cr@p. Built to a price point, and built to fail within a decade or a bit longer.
A few trades they suck at are plumbing, electrical, cabinetry and finish carpentry, IMHO. They have dangerously low standards on electrical in particular. Don't ask me how I know.
Having an AGM that is nothing like what you guys are buying, a surplus Telecom, very thick, very few plates that's about 150ah and weighs a whopping 105 pounds and is designed to last 10 years, the DEKA I run has some different requirements in recharging.
4 or 5 days of 150w 8.5 amps solar panel in a row does not give it what it needs to get things stirred up and fully recharged. On the 5th or 6th day, it sees the Megawatt, set at 14.4V, first thing in the morning, for a couple of hours on the generator. The battery will take a maximum of 20 to 21 amps at 14.4V. It will be slow in dropping the amps down at this voltage, at least an hour. You can't rush recharging it. The battery temp increase is minimal, as in hardly noticeable, when shot with an IR temp gun, maybe 4 or 5 F temp rise.
I absolutely love having that RC battery charger meter in line with my MegaWatt, to tell me exactly what is going on, V wise and Ah wise. It takes all the guess work out of what the state of charge is with the battery.
2 or 3 hours on the MegaWatt at 20-21 amps restores the battery. End of trip, it sits on the MegaWatt at home until I see a .75ah draw at 14.4V, then I shut the MegaWatt off, and let it sit, fully top charged. 72 hours after a full recharge, the battery, at around 80F, will show 12.88V
The battery chemistry will take what ever amps you can give it, and self limit itself. Watch the heat, don't let it get too hot, and then watch the amp take rate as it finishes recharging. If your battery has it's temperature rising, you need to back off on the voltage a bit, so it doesn't make heat.
It's not rocket science here, just take notes on a new battery and what it does, what it's results are, and file them away for reference. I can't and don't run heavy inverter loads on my telecom battery. It wasn't designed for it. It was designed for low and slow amps drawn over long periods of time. It works fine for me, in my 21 ft travel trailer, as a single battery. No toaster or microwave or electric coffee for me, unless it's on the Eu2000i generator.
My rig is small, my needs are small, but everything is scaleable, to a certain extent. 40 or 50 amp hours pulled in 24 hours is a huge power hog day for me, I am usually closer to 25-40. I've had the battery a year now, still doing great. Mex tells me 9+ years to go on it.
Can't speak for RV's, but for my cars, when reshod with shock absorbers and going through all new bushings doing a complete suspension R&R when all the rubber has gone bad, I've been most satisfied with Koni's. Bilsteins gas I had on my Jetta were harsh. The dampening valving on the Koni's was just much better. I did not get Sport models, I bought Koni Reds, oil dampening. Very satisfied with the ride.
https://play.google.com/store/apps?utm_source=na_Med&utm_medium=hasem&utm_content=Nov1215&utm_campaign=Evergreen&pcampaignid=MKT-DR-na-us-all-Med-hasem-ap-Evergreen-May0315-1-SiteLink%7cONSEM_kwid_43700006873862237&gclid=CNDI37O-lM8CFZkdfwodUNgJzA&gclsrc=dsGooIf you are on the road, try "TV Antenna Helper" on your Android, via "Google Play Store"