I filled up yesterday at $2.699 per gal for diesel fuel, regular gas was $2.999
And that here in southern Cali-funny-land
I can get ARCO diesel for 2.69 a gallon on Devonshire and Sepulveda in the SFV, but the lines are long, long, long, and it's a hassle going in and paying cash, then going in and getting change to top off my fuel tank.
My logs indicate the best mpg's being acheived on Unocal and Chevron diesel... sometimes Texaco gives me uber MPG's per fill up also. The diesel fuel sold in UT, ID, MT and WY is the good stuff, really really good stuff, very high MPG's almost every fill up. Conoco, Phillips, and Sinclair, all of them good.
I refuse to buy Shell diesel fuel... 7 to 10% loss in MPG's, it is cut with some sort of crap. It's also the same fuel Kroger, Food King, Ralphs, all the grocery store chains carry for fuel also, despite the grocery discounts offered at 20c a gallon, I don't find any value being gained.
It's Sheeple. More like sheep than people with common sense. They have not found a way yet to tamper with diesel fuel, but the damn soybean Liberal Democrap subsidy farmers in Illinois have been trying. I refuse to buy anything with biodiesel in it, if it can at all be avoided. Not when oil abounds.
Are you saying then, that BP p.l.c. is a good buy now on the stock market? :C
Buy enough vehicle to trailer what you want, or buy a small enough trailer to work with the TV you got, without crowding the margin.
Really, it's that simple, leave a hefty margin of tow capacity, don't get near max, and you won't have problems.
Touareg is rated for 7700 pounds towing and 1300 pounds in the TV. The TT I bought is 3700 dry, with a tongue weight of 320 pounds. That's one of the main reasons that I bought it... well within the tow vehicles limits.
Use a little common sense, and a test drive is not even a consideration. I drove out to Indiana to pick up my TT from Los Angeles, because I can trailer for a heck of a lot less than $ 2.50 a mile, certainly when the Touareg gets 33 -35 mpg empty, for half the trip there. Never even considered a test drive I was well within the numbers. Did install an Equalizer hitch at the shop.
I believe it's called common sense, don't tow near the margins of your capacity limits, and all is well. Trying to make silk purses out of sows ears, or going over the limit, or even near is, is lacking common sense, with little margin for error. That big margin of error, or buffer zone is your friend, not something to be tested.
Do the math ahead of time, a test drive will tell you nothing.
I think DAS knows where some Trojan Group 24's might be coming from pretty new in need of serious recovery, hopefully for free, too.
My previously enjoyed T-1275s only got picked up because someone here was nice enough to let me read their posts on how they recovered theirs. It worked for me too, though I was in disbelief how much time it took, and how funky the SG readings can be on that particular battery.
I knew someone was going to call me out on being cheap. LOL
I do have the extra $60 but don't want to spend it if I can help it.
Does anyone have any input on the controller from SolarBlvd that I linked to?
Hey, it's your money, spend it any way you want. You solicited opinions, I gave one. The one I gave is going to cost a little bit more.
Figure it out, what is more important to you, a few bucks spent on shipping for the close to square Poly panels or the rectangular mono panels.
SolarBlvd will charge me $60 for shipping on the poly panels that Niner suggested and I hate paying for that. :)
So I am torn between their 260Watt Kit and 200W kit from WindyNation.
I like the Solar30 controller better for its features as I dont think the Solar Cynergy controller gives enough voltage. Here is the LINK to the specs.
I am looking on Amazon but cant find anything around 150W for a reasonable price.
Suggest then you take a vacation to California and Solar Blvd, and you can skip the shipping charges.
The $60 over 10 years of use, amortizing the cost over the years used, will pay for itself... Square form factor for portable is a blessing.
Think about what you pay in fuel to go on a trip in your RV, and in relationship to the use you'll get from your RV.
There's just no such thing as a free lunch, or free shipping. So I suggest you keep saving until you have enough saved up to get exactly what you want.
15.5 on solar will not accomplish anything, but you are welcome to keep at it. Batteries have proven to require extremely high voltage to desufate the lead plates, 16.15 V or greater.
Keep plugging that Sears charger in.
I told you this was going to be a very long PIA process.
Well I am screwed... my TT didn't come with a ladder on the back to mount such a device. I can also tell you code would require that your exhaust end 36" above the roof line, minimum. Your exhaust stack is too short.
+1 2 3 4 5 6
1215 1230 1245 1230 1235 1215
1225 1240 1250 1250 1250 1235
1235 1245 1260 1245 1250 1215
1250 1250 1250 1260 1260 1235
1260 1260 1265 1260 1260 1260 13.08Volts
1230 1245 1240 1245 1250 1240
1250 1250 1250 1240 1240 1235
1250 1235 1235 1250 1250 1250
1260 1260 1260 1250 1250 1250
1260 1260 1260 1250 1250 1250 13.08 volts
Looks like we're getting there!
Will give it another good day of charging and closely watch the temperature.
Maybe NinerBikes will get his charger back soon!
The Voltage beatings and Amperage dropping will continue, until either moral or Specific gravity improves around here!
Do NOT unplug The Sears Punisher until you see 1.275, if it is at all still possible.
Yes, an Onan 4000 micro quiet,Thanks, I need a routine to follow each morning. Will look into the charger. Thanks again.
Is this what I want?
30 amps 33 amp peak
Actual voltage adjustment on this unit is 9.5 to 15.5 VDC
Input 120/240 VAC
What voltage do you think you should set it at for bulk charging your current Interstate batteries?
Wrong answer... DAS...
It's been operator error. You are always responsible for the condition of your batteries. Do not depend on devices that are "smart" until you verify their smartness, or dumbness of engineering design.
Just like I was responsible for not being able to program my Kenwood Ham radio, ultimately, I needed an expert to point out my mistakes with an antenna meter.
Do you have a generator on board your RV? Go buy a MegaWatt 30 amp power supply unit online from up in AguaDulce, before you go camping. Set it at 15.0V before you go. Run your generator for 2 hours every morning at 15.0V... your batteries might do a little bit better, but you'll go through the same******again that you are going through now when you get home, from those PIA batteries.
You need real deep cycle batteries, or you need to curtail your electrical consumption daily with your current battery setup.
You have a lot of problems to resolve before you come back from your next camping trip.
You will NEVER equalize charge with a generator... Didn't you learn how much time it takes to do so from this exercise?
You address this by setting your solar panel charge controller at 15.0V and charging as much as you can daily with solar panels, after an hour or two of running your generator and MegaWatt also set at 15.0V, first thing in the morning.
When I camp it is serious off the grid and off battery as much as feasible. The novelty of hauling condominium conveniences to the sticks wore off decades ago. Down here hotel rooms are cheaper than RV spaces. And don't forget my rig is umbilical connected to a small house. When the lights go out I keep right on trucking. I shore fish for large mouth bass and brown trout, and do not even own a television. The refrigerator is actually a refrigerator freezer.
Anyhoo having some spare PSW wattage laying around is always nice.The posting is actually about Meanwell having am inverter.
I can tell you haven't booked a room anywhere near good fishing areas around Yellowstone National Park, Montana, Idaho, or Jackson Hole in the last decade... the rooom rack rates would eat your monthly pension/benefits check up in a matter of days.
I went with a honda generator instead, if I need big power for the microwave or soldering irons or toasters or hair dryers.
What did you and your wife learn from this? And your neighbor, can he learn too, before he destroys his new Trojan batteries?
Charger is probably trying to make 3 amps at 16 to 17V or about 48 watts. 48 watts will never overheat that battery in 60F ambient temps.
1.275, etch that somewhere on each battery, so you don't forget.
T-105 don't fit, too tall. Hits fuse bank.
Checked battery on charger. Volts dropped from 16.0 to 15.92 been running 4.5hrs now.
Get a SG reading, all cells, voltage is not very important at this time, due to the amount of sulfation.
Are these batteries 6 months old or a few months old, and how many camping days do you have on them since acquiring them? How many trips? How many dry camping days?
NinerBikes, Besides size limitation, I have to deal with weight. We are at the GVWR now..
Leaving your charger on one battery today for 8 hours at 16v. No heat yet, use temp gun and it's 68.8 degrees F.
Pianotuna, the AGM is too big $ wise. Haven't checked the LWH yet.
Figure out where you want to lose weight, and what is more important, electricity when camping, or something else. Don't know what to tell, you, compromise somewhere? Leave the wife at home? Somethings got to give.
Don't choose arbitrary hours to leave the charger on, it takes what it takes... but if these are 6 months old and doing this, I've got a bad feeling you abused and killed them to the point of no return. Too little, too late.
Time for a remodel of the battery compartments? You have to get away from Group 24, 27, 29 ,31 and 33 batteries for dry camping, period. End of subject matter, they are far too problematic in design, shape and electrolyte capacity to recharge properly or easily.
Now you know. No more excuses.
You are not done yet. Wait another day, and disregard the voltage reading at the terminals. What is needed now it to equalize the specific gravity readings for cells, your cells are all over the place. They should all be at least at 1.270.
You are not home free yet. Far from it. Leave the Sears charger on for longer periods of time. Much longer... overnight. Your batteries are being stubborn. SG matters now, not the voltage. Get the SGs all equal and higher, around 1.270 or better.
You keep quitting too soon, every day. You need to be more stubborn and determined than your sulfated plates. This isn't play time with batteries any more, this is industrial strength time to get things done, all week long.
You really messed those batteries up camping the last time in Yosemite, did too little, too late, now you are going to pay the price for your mistake. You ran them waaaay too deep a discharge cycle, well past 50% state of charge. Bad Boy! To the doghouse for you!
Leaving the Sears charger on all night will not hurt your batteries, the amperage is too low.