Finally looked this product up on a real computer vs smart phone.....
Looks like a good product. Not sure it will wear any better for use in a construction industry biz where one is loading and unloaded a truck 3-5 times a day etc. It may wear worst with constant shoveling of material out of it. BUT, for those that have caps, etc, looks like a better product than the line-x, rhino liner, inserted bed liners that are out there. Or like my sons that are in hoe construction, have a cap, crawl into the bed to get tools out etc upon occasion, probably better etc than the spray in.
All these products have a place, just which will be better for the end user. some day the bed rug will be the better option for me......
There is the chebby for the chubby folks,
Frods for those that say the wrong things,
Dogdes, oops rams for Engines Gone Dead On Drivers.....
Toy tonka twucks,,,,, that DO have 1 tons and larger DOT classification trucks....ie "HINO" branded trucks......some people do not know there brands.....
I also like the red color is fastest, white lightest etc......
Twuck buying is a game, get the one YOU like. After that, who cares........other than those that like to troll for fish...........
I had initially LR D 256-75-16 tires on a sw rig back in the early 90's when E rated ones were not out. They towed every bit as well or better than the stock 245-75-16 LR E rated tires. Both at 3000lbs of total rating. In my case, later went to E rated tires. Frankly, I was just as well off with the D rated tires, less money, took wife out to dinner......
I've seen issues as you describe more in larger MDT/HDT tire sizes. There seem to be no longevity issues etc with them. If LARGE trucks have this issue. I am sure small trucks will have the same very few issues.
I've personally found the squishy tire side wall is more from the actual tire brand and type than the psi in the tire. A steel sidewall tire is always loaded lbs on it straighter up and down than a polyester only sidewall tire of the same size and load rating.
The worst squishy tire I have had, was a set of Michelin XRV tires, ones for motor homes in an 8r19.5. Some got put on my mdt one time, they did not last but 48 hrs on it. Even with the truck empty at 12K lbs, the tires full loaded psi at 18K lbs, were non driveable with an empty truck vs other brands and even other michelin tires of the same size etc. They were made a bit soft for a softer ride for those with lighter chassis gvw mdt based MH's. not good for one using the same chassis as a dump truck. if we want to talk the XDE M+S on the rear of my truck.....great tires! XRV suck!
I have ocean-front property in Yankton, South Dakota.
I suppose asking for proof of that would be as off limits as test reports about Eco-diesels? Looks like it's almost time to lock this thread so the test video drops out of site sic.
One needs to remember something re trucks. They are nothing more than tools to get a given job done. If it meets ones specs, then it is the correct tool. If not it is the incorrect tool. No different than one former local hardware store before being bought out by Lowes, had over 300 hammers on the shelf for one to buy. Hammers like trucks, come in multiple sizes shapes and forms, depending upon the item one needs to hammer/hit etc. To take a 4oz tack hammer and compare to a 5 lbs sledge, or a 32oz framing hatchet much less against a 32oz framing hammer is ridiculous. All have a purpose in life.
So far in over a dozen trucks, I have to say my 89 1 ton flatbed has been the worst of the bunch. Meanwhile I had an 86 S10, not a bad rig for its purpose......Does this mean the S10 is a better truck than the R3500. Depens upon use.
So a non turbo/supercharged rig out pulls per say speed wise a supercharged one......DOes than mean it is better. Only on that test! performance spec. The other at the end of the day, may still be the better overall truck for ones purpose.
Hence my opinion on this. And no, I do not own, nor at this time, do I plan to own a ram or equal. Prefer Chebby's me self! that was not tested in this video.
Is there sound haha in the utube? Like most, I probably will not hear it. So you e vids are useless unless I can clearly see what is being shown. Just a bit on deaf side of things.
My guess would be that shoveling multiple loads of soil per day with a flat shovel would not be good. But could be wrong. Which is why I.am asking.
How well do bed rugs stand up to topsoil, bark, and other loads of this nature daily? Would assume a line-x or equal is a better option for a person who "uses" the bed per say as I do. Sou de like a better option if you have a canopy or equal top on the bed tho.
SHould have taken pics of my C2500 earlier today with 80lbs of pressure going into a topsoil yard. One could see the dust on the tire where it was hitting pavement. IE middle 8 of 9" of tread. Once I had the 4 yds of compost in the truck, you could see the dust from the yard on the WHOLE width of the tire.
I normally in this rig run the rears at around 50, 55 on the front when doing smaller loads and generally running around. Truck is around 5300-5500 empty with just me in it. My 3500 dually I sold 18 months ago, I ran that at 70 on the front, and 45-50 on the rears, unless putting a load of gravel etc for a length of time, then I ran them at 80. I had 90K on the Toyo M55's on the rear of that truck doing this. 80-90% of the time I ran at the 45-50 lbs.
While my way is not the chalk or tape method, still in the same vane, look at the tread after going thru a puddle onto dry road, the water wears off where contact is made, outside where not hitting will still be wet. Or dust as I saw. Or lack of dust.......
Granted not all at once, but had 3 tons of crushed rock put into the bed of my C2500 last weekend! Had 4-5K lbs of mulch put in the bed twice today!.....
It is possible to do and not kill the truck!
As far as adds go....take them for what they are worth. Remember, on a level, it only takes around 10HP to move 100K lbs at 1mph or there abouts with correct gearing. So a rig with 150-200hp should be able to move a space shuttle, or the log trailer setup etc.
$2.22 for diesel, I wish, saw 3.49 today in North Seattle. 2.69 in the indian reservation on the Olympic peninsula near Port Angelas! Reg gas is 2.69 to around 2.99. Not sure the last time I saw fuel of any sort in the lower than 2.50 range.........
Gas vs diesel, more than one way to look at this answer depending upon the driving style, what how etc! like all things great and small, more than one way to skin a cat per say!
I'll take a D rated 255 over an E rated 235 in tire sizes mentioned. At least from my experience with my two previous sw 3500 GM's. The D rated 265's Cary the same wt as the 235's. Same diameter, bit skinnier, so handling as not always as good. If you have RIM width, go to the wider tire!
As others have stated, only the manufacturer knows where gvwr number comes from. Feel free to change any component you want. I hope that it is the weak link that the builder is aware of. Simply changing brakes or frame thickness may be all it takes. Good luck with your experimenting.
MDT/HDT this happens ALL the time. One could also do this very easy with a chassis cab light duty truck too. As typically the door tag is put on by the after market bed manufacture. So THEY can legally put on things like tag, drop axels and other ways and means of carrying more than the chassis came out of the factory rated too.
Light duty there is a one size fits all category mentality. When the reality is, it is way more varied than that. Along with warranty issues which I do not recall being mentioned. That is really all the manufactures door sticker gvwr is for, along with meeting certain government specs as built and finished. After that, anything goes as far as what and how you use the rig.
I've been pulled over upwards of 150% of my manufacture gvwr in rigs, so far, no overweight tickets! As I have been under my paid for license tag, along with the engineer specs of how much the road bed can handle. THIS is what the weight cops are enforcing. THere is NO enforcing of the manufactures ratings per say. If a state does less than the federal bridge law amount, that state can lose federal highway funding.
As has been noted before in these discussions. you can have an axel rated to say 30K lbs including tires springs brakes etc. ALL you will get to carry on that axel is 20K lbs, or 17500 if part of a tandem setup. It does not due one any good to have an axel rated to much more than 21K lbs in reality.
I can legally run down the road at around 20K lbs with a single wheel pickup. Not saying it is smart, safe etc. BUT if I had the correct license, I would be legal. On the other hand, I would probably still get a ticket for not meeting my states braking requrements which is for me to stop with in 25' from 20mph on a level surface. I would get red tagged, told not to drive the rig until the brakes meet spec, or off load weight so I meet spec. THIS ticket is a moving violation, it will follow me! An overweight ticket has no bearing on my insurance, driving record etc! it is a non moving violation!
My swag on the light duty trucks having axel ratings more than the gvwr is to meet certain DOT ratings specs as mentioned. Most of us in reality, can not legally per our HOA rules assuming you live in one, park your dually or single wheel rig with a manufacture gvwr of 10K or more! Which in reality, makes it a DOT class 2 or 3/4 ton truck, not a 1 ton/DOT class 3 truck. Many 35's are in reality, class 4 trucks these days too!
Enjoy the thoughts, there is no right or wrong on this, other than making sure you are under a legal wt amount, and an amount you feel safe from getting sued in a court. Then getting sued this way, the guilty line is much lower than from a legal standpoint!
Licensing requirements (taxes) are the reason for the dual GVWR ratings. Has nothing to do with GVWR or RAWR. Completely irrelevant to the discussion.
You're probably more correct in some ways than others. Others are more correct.
Yes, you could put a 8K rated dual tired axel under an S-10, Ranger or equal, Toyota used to put a dual axel under there 4banger rigs. You could maybe get the s10 recertified to show it could handle the weight. Reality is, the scale guys probably would not care, as long as your PAID for gvw was greater than the actual gvw. Along with you are under the road bed max weight limits.
As I said earlier, there is more than one way to look at this, one has to know ALL of the legal and non legal ways of looking at this issue. For me, as I stated earlier, as long as I am under the road bed limits, have a paid for license that is over what I am going down the road at. I am legal. Not necessarily "safe", but I am legal!
"Safe" certainly has many connotations too. I've driven over gvwr, gcwr with my family of 6 in a given truck or two or three. The only white knuckle issues have had to do with other issues, not weight related. Like the 35 15-20 passenger vans coming the opposite direction I was going on a 1.5 lane width mountain road. I was on the cliff side! I really do not see how gvwr/gcwr has to do with these kind of situations.
There is not right or wrong, other than to a degree, the person in the scale shack, and maybe the person doing an accident report after the fact.
Then one has to deal with the at cops in th shacks. Which many times depending upon the states, do not care about the tire, spring or Adel ratings. Only that you are below the 20k lbs per Adel, with no less than 20" of tire width per side to support the load, so you do not harm the roadbed ssurface, sub grade etc. You can have an Adel rated to 25 k per the specs shown earlier, but be over weight as you can only load the Axelrod and its components to 20k lbs.
Ive been pulled over here in wa st many times over my manufacture rated Adel capacity, I have yet to get an over weight ticket, as I am under my paid for license, and the max load per axel with out harm's mg the road bed itself.
Choose your poison in how and what to follow, too many rights and wrongs frankly.
Drive two vehicles... buying a rig for a 1x trip with special requirements is crazy.
Where did the OP say he was doing a one time trip? If like me, I made probably over 100 trips with my family of 6 in my trucks towing out trailer. A trip here and there were done with two rigs, but one can not always do a 2-3K mile trip around the western states in my case with two rigs. So finding a rig that will haul the family and the trailer is a must.
While it was not a really, my 96as crew cab has been my personal favorite truck of the dozen or so I have owned.
The other thing for some, the 35 called of today are not what I would call a 1 ton, they are more in the class 4 well, and the se 25/35 trucks are more inline with a dot class 3 1 ton truck.
I just read a 1/2ton comparison test in Car & Driver.. The aluminum Ford was only 80#s off of the GMs weight.. I can't recall whether it was less or more though. The gist of it was that the Aluminum body didn't save much weight.
Why would you compare GM to Ford to determine how much the aluminum reduced the Ford platform?
Because generally speaking, thru the last 30 or so years I have looked at trucks, GM has been the lightest, then dodge about 100-200 lbs heavier, Ford another 100-200 lbs heavier. So Ford being within 80 lbs of a GM, assuming equally equipped vs 300-400 heavier, is a good thing I suppose! or it shows that they have lightened up the trucks too.
Not sure about the airbag part of the equation, but I have over 50-100K miles towing a trailer with my family of 6 in a crew cab pickup. Altho I have to admit, my 96 CC did not have airbag one! My 05 only had a passenger front and drivers side. Middle I believe was not covered.
I started with an 88 ext cab when my now 23 yr old on the 4-22 was all of 6 months old. Twin sons are 28. That was back in 92. then went to the 96 crew cab.
I personally would not try to shy away from a pickup IF it can work for your needs. Otherwise, I would not personally have an issue with a GM 6.0 4.10 or 4.33 if available toting my family of 6 along with a 10K trailer. The 6.0 has more HP and torque than my 88 ext cab with a 454, or the 96 with a 6.5td. I ran upwards of 15-18K total gcwr with both with out issues. Yeah a bit on the slower side at times. But handling and other issues were not there.
The MB sprinter, has about the same HP/torque as my 96 6.5td. But with half the cubes. Not sure I would want to move upwards of 17-18K with this setup. I have been down the road at 10-12K with the one I drive at work, including towing some boats upwards of 4000 lbs....no issues. plenty of power etc...Not sure this will do as well as the 6.5 that was 185/385 with a nv4500 vs the 180/330 IIRC specs for the sprinter motor, and a 5 sp auto. GCWR is listed as 15K, same as my 96 was.