That last poster was probably trying to make a funny, in the wrong thread at the wrong time.....reality is, this funky has to be a 25/35 series, diesel etc etc God be to restrictive and would never pass federal or state legislatures. As it would also rule out class 8's that move one deck of a lot of stuff to an from places. His statement would never fly!
think I read somewhere that in 2017 1/2 ton trucks would have no towing capacity, so if You would like to tow You must buy a 2500-3500 and it must be a diesel. also new federal regulations removing tow hitches from any 1/2 ton less that 2 years old.
what do You think ?
You are a big early, or is that late for April Fools Day are you not?!?!???
My fist new truck had a 292 I6 with whopping 105 hp. A bb v8 at the time did not even have but 200 hp. A v6 pushing out 300 hp should be able to move MANY trailers that some say they could not. I move 5k trailers with the 292. Not fast, but fast enough. Folks today do not see motto wantthe motors to rev so they make the rrated hp. I have no issues having my vortec350 into the 4-5 k range so it can make the 200-255 hp it is rated at. Pulled a 12k trailer from a stop up a 2-3% grade to 45 mph @ 45 mph on 2nd gear. A people geared v6 with equality hp should be able t do the same.
Oh, that 292 was in an 8600 gvw2500 GMC. I can hear the howling on a barely 100 hp motor in a typical 3/4 to. Truck. Much less getting the same motor in 20k v60 series truck.
I did weigh it. It is an extended cab,short box 4x4 with 6.0 liter gas engine and it was just under 5,800 without me in it. Of course the truck was empty. The diesel trucks of that year were around 7,000.
My 2003 silverado 2500HD, LS trim with gas engine has 2,732 lbs of payload and 9,200 GVWR. That includes a 150 lb person in each seat and full tank of fuel.My truck weighs 5,800 and I weigh 220 so technically I have 3,330 lbs of payload. I have had over 3,000 pounds in it and I assure you I wouldn't be comfortable with that weight on a regular basis. 2,000- 2,500 lbs would be more realistic.
Go out and actually weigh it...guessing you'll be surprised that it
will weigh closer to +7K lbs than 5,800. Betcha a Costo Dog Lunch... :B
Then everything else that is based on that 'curb' weight will be reduced...
My 88 ext cab with a BB and std 8' bed was a shade under 6000 lbs. The 96 CC diesel was 6600 or there abouts.......some rigs weigh more, some a bit less, depends upon options.....then again, My 2000 reg cab C2500 with TWO chargable options, ie auto trans, factory hitch, or and trim rings, is 4800 lbs!
Then there is folks like me, that have employees driving said trucks, daily with 6x12 trailer, full of mowers etc, then the bed gets loaded daily with other junk, like grass clipping, prunings etc. Even then, a pickup bed is too small, a 1 ton or class 4 is many times the better option with a 12' dump bed on it.
As I noted recently, worst than a number of years ago, that trucks are harder to find for contractor style rigs. MOST seem to be car equals, even the 8 lug 25/35 series are carpeted, leather, power this that and the other thing.......I found a few basic 1500's, they wanted as much or more than paid for my 05 LS CC dually dmax I bought in 05! Amazing, $30K for a base 1500 with a V6! One does not find these types of rigs used in any kind of decent shape either......or if you do, they are very few and far between.
"ANY" place that has a scale will weigh you. Sometimes free, other times they will charge you. When I bought my 05 dually, now sold, I hit a local rock/gravel/cement plant quarry that I buy material from regularly. Went across the scale to see what it weighed with out all the goodies I know would be on it, like the ladder/wood/pipe rack, cross bed tool box, line-x, I needed to add a 15K reciver hitch.........My base wt was right in there with GM's base wt per all the door and glove box camper load stickers. I'm not going to say exact, as the scale goes in 20 lb increments, and the stickers were to the lb!I was with in a 20 or 40 lbs difference. I've been this way with 5 different trucks, so the door stickers are what I would call close enough with out a scale one can use it IMHO and not be off enough to really make a difference.
If you look in the Yellow pages, or some other online type phone list/book, you can many times find places listed under scales/weights or equal for vehicles.
A family of 5 that weighs maybe 400 lbs. Heck, my ex and I weigh that much. Much less when my boys were 9, daughters were 7 and 4! Probably another 150-200 between them.
I was off by 20lbs, right now we weigh 420 minus car seat. All 3 kids weighed in at the Drs office yesterday at 125lbs. I weigh 115 and my husband weighs about 180. We are not big people. LOL My 2 boys are both in the 25th percentile for weight. They are tall/lean kids. My daughter is tiny like me too.
Sounds a little like mine, 25% for wt, but 125% for ht for twins and child 4. #3 was in the 80th for ht, and 50th for wt. So we are a bit larger on both ends of the scale. Because of this, I have a tendency to use heavier wts than most. We also packed about 2000 lbs into the trailer for gear, food etc. 6 sets of clothes, sleeping gear, cook and eating utensils will add up about the same, no matter the size of the people. Plus because we usually went where there was not hookups, i left with a full tank of water. At the end of the day, better to be guessing a bit on the heavy side vs light!
Have fun with the new rig etc.
Not sure how folks deal with them beds shorter than 8'!
We use a utility trailer for the rare occasion we need to haul something longer than 6 ft. Only happens maybe once or twice a year for some of us!
That would get really expensive for me. A couple of trips on a ferry a week....lets see, first 22' is $18, next 8' to 30 is $36, 31-40 is about $54.......19' of truck, plus 12' of trailer, $54 on way, $108 round trip......OUCH! maybe even DOUBLE OUCH! then add in that I am over 7'6", another 16 or so for over height! Expensive trip! I'll take the std 8' bed over a 6' short bed thank you very much.......
Them short beds must be for non contractor types...........
What is so special about the half ton with a std bed in the pic?!?!?! so one can get a 10" bed or there abouts. How kewl would that be!!!!!!!! maaaaaavalous! it would be to get a 10' pickup bed. Not sure how folks deal with them beds shorter than 8'!
I did overall pretty good with a 185/385 6.5td yanking a total of 15K around in my TT, upwards of 20K with my equipment trailer. Then I got a 310 or so with 620 lbs of torque in the dually. Actually, more than ample power doing freeway work. Down low on steeper grades when having to go slow. A 6sp ally with 4.10 ro 4.33's, or even the 6l90 trans with 3.73s would be better.
In the end, what and how do you use the rig. I do more towing local on local streets at speeds to 45-50, with intermediate interstate hops now. So a LOT of power is not needed as much as if one is doing 60-65 with a LOT of frontal area as many RV trailers have. An RV trailer at 60 mph is another upwards of 30-40HP needed at 60 mph vs my equipment trailer with a bobcat or mini trackhoe on it.
Get me the right gears in the trans, ample power to work with overall, I'm happy. Heck, I move ok, not as good as I would like upwards of 15K with my Navistar, it has a whopping 175hp and 335 lb ft of torque. Oh, and NO STEENKIN TURBO! It will pull 30K up a 30% grade, Better than that dangmax I had, 20K up a 24% grade. My lowly 6.5 would do 20K up a 30% grade! Power is not the end all be all of how well a rig will tow, again, depending upon the where you need to get to and back!
Reality, if talking diesels, it would be nice if there was a derated motor per say, for those like myself, do not need the performance of a higher HP rig for doing city work per say. BIG twucks get this option! So shouldn't wittle twucks get this option?!?!?!
I'd be just as happy with a 250-300 hp 550-600 lb ft torque diesel that nets me over 20 mph or right about there for a typical 8600-9900 gvwr twuck! Not sure it is going to happen with a 500/1000 motor. THat is in the range of some class 8 tractors hauling 80-100K lbs around at one time. Probably a min power out put today....but still...........
Considering I have had a 12k MDT truck vet tossed around by an improperly balanced 8k trailer, not sure a fuLly 1 ton is better than a class 6 MDT with a longer an no less!
There is NO such thing as too my,h dog if the trailer starts to go around.
Not sue where the issue you have with my post. I said, being over gvwr is not an issue. While not direct about being over the RA, it is the weak link, being over it will be an issue. There is nothing illegal about changing out the weak RA for a stronger one.
If I were to take a guess, I would say something failed on the Hensley. when something brakes (strut rod for example) the HA will allow the trailer to go all over the place!
This might be the best swag so far. Also shows why many of us like to have a safe and sane towing set up BEFORE we had the sway bars etc. Not a swaying trailer, adding bars to fix the fishtail sway. When the bandaid breaks, the trailer will fishtail, and you have a setup in the ditch. I drove 150 miles one time with a literally "lost" bar that had fallen off, the other was still there but disconnected. Trailer pulled straight the whole time. Finished the trip with 20-30 mph side to side gusts going the Columbia River Valley. Trailer was rock solid behind me.
I doubt more truck would have helped. I have been dang near swung around once with my 12K dump truck pulling a bobcat on my ET with the trailer being around 8K lbs. Too little hitch wt! A singel axel trailer with a pallet of sod on the rear, dang near took out a 1 ton dually pulling it, again, due to too little HW!! BIG twucks do not stop issues like this. THey can get swung, moved by the trailer too!
My pic is not working, as the photo hosting company has gone ALL pay for to show pic like this etc. what a pita!
Maybe I am using the improper term per say, ie trailer brakes need to stop both truck and trailer. As noted, if field tested, the brakes had better hold or stay locked up. A single axle trailer say rated at 3500 as I had, may not hold a Class 8 tractor, but the brakes had better stay locked up in the field test as I described, or the trailer will be illegal on the hwy due to a fail braking system.
Tell that to the SP that pulls you over and has you disconnect the trailer brake lanyard, take off in first gear, and HAVE the trailer hold you in place! That is the test the LEO will do to you to verify your brakes are working. OR< they could have you go to say 5 mph, hit the brake lever in the cab, and the trailer had better stop both of you!
That is how I have been checked a few times with my equipment trailer.
MY EXAMPLE< IS HOW the SP will check your blinken brakes IF you are pulled over and stopped! At least here in Wa st that is among three or 4 items you will have to show are up to par if they go after your electric braking system.
As I said, the trailer brakes had better stop, hold or otherwise, the gvwr of BOTH the truck and trailer!
Another test you will be put to, go to 20 mph, BOTH truck and trailer brakes had better stop the rig with in x feet! OR again, you have a failed brake system, tickets, and a tow bill to the repair shop. You must also have at least 11.4V in the battery that stops the trailer. IF you have drained house batteries, they are your braking batteries, and are below the 11.4V, you will not be allowed to go forward until you get new batteries, or you idle until the batteries are up to snuff!
MANY ways for the SP to get you off the road brake wise.
Man you guys are extreme! If I read his post correctly he is 100lbs over his GVWR and 50lbs over his Rear GAWR. I don't think distributing 100lbs from the front of the trailer is going to cause a sway problem.
I personally do not see the issue with the gvwr. BUT, being as his RA is known for being the weak link, being 50 over is an issue, or will be a break down issue. As noted, a RA swap to a larger capacity diff would be a smart move, along with a heavier spring pack. Not sure I agree with the trans swap, as a 4l60 if that is what he has, is actually a better geared trans for towing than the 4l80e! Altho a slight build up of internals might be a good move.
Then going to a different tire, or one that is rated for more payload would also be a smart move.
Ive towed many many miles over the gvwr, but under axel wts with no issues to some, depending upon the rig, weak link etc. Usually a break down is the issue. Not handling or some other issue.