1650 torkees is all I need ,sound system - pshaw - 60 years old, 30+ working in noisy environments destroyed hearing enough so I don't need no 'sound system'.
EH, WHAT YOU SAY AGEN?!?!?!?!?!?
oh yeah, need to turn them hearin aids down again!!!!
I know the working in a noisy environment. Only took me 20 or so years. Could not hear my 7 yr old daughter! would go from my office to the living room, tell mom that daddy is not talking or listening to her! one quick way to make a daddy cry! 5 more years, one divorce, and I got the hearing aids at age 40!
Must be why I went from driving a dually CC dmax to a 3 total option rec cab 2500! Both have 3800 lbs of payload, both will pull my 12K equipment trailer.......
Ok, so one has 255 hp vs 320......4 forward vs 5, the posi is nice.......4wd, nice, but not NEEDED!......roll up windows vs power.....oh the 2500 sits some 8" lower than the 3500! A lot easier on the back lifting thing into the bed!
With this in mind, what is right for me, is different than the rest of you and vice versa. As long as it is the right tool for the moment, who cares what options etc it has.
We do plan to weigh the trailer on the truck as soon as the weather clears. By locally I mean 200 to 300 miles and we do make 1 long trip (1000 plus miles) to a different National Park every year. If we were to go the 1 Ton rout we would certainly go with a DRW as the SRW would offer little practical advantage our current truck. I really have no Idea how much weight we take along, a weeks worth of clothes for the four of us and we generally buy all our groceries before we leave. It will be interesting to see how much we do haul with us.
Not saying it's right or wrong but we see much larger units on 250/2500 series trucks all the time.
My 3500 srw has 2,100# more GVWR than your 2500. I have just under 3,700# payload.;)Sorry I do not believe your 3500srw has a 11,700# gvw rating.
I looked at a door sticker to a sw 3500 GM a few months back. And to my surprise, it had an 11700 gvwr on the door sticker, 300 lbs more than my 05 GM dually! BUT< I still somehow had more payload by 300 lbs or so.
Your wrong on at least one front. The upper photo, I pull that combo with both my old blue truck, and the white one pictured. I have over 1600 lbs of dead wt ability with the hitch, the hw is usually 1400-1500 lbs, with 10500-11K on the axels. On the other hand, the blue trucks gcwr is all of 12500, and that combo is over 20K, with the trailer being about 11500 of it.
THe bottom pic, the truck has probably over 3000 lbs of concrete in the bed, along with three pallets of blockwall product at 3600 ea. The only real issue is the wt on the RA of the truck from a rv/net wt police prospective. The legal police would get me for dragging the chains. Otherwise, legal in both pics. If I had had the front pallet loaded a bit farther back, the hw would have been less, with less rear drag, same with the stuff in the bed, if it would have been pushed closer tot he cab vs all in the back 3/4 of the bed......But I only had to go 2 miles on 25 and 35 mph roads. The upper pic is at the top of I90 snoqualmie pass, had to drag that combo up and back some 70 miles ea way. No issues, no white knuckles........
ps barney, not sure both the tv and towing area could handle my lack of sensitivity to the rvnet wt police! LOLOLOL I only worry about the legal wt police!
You mean something like this combo!?!?!?!?!?
Or this combo?!?!?!
It comes down to payload as mentioned, which will come down to body style and options. A 2500 crew cab, std 8'box, leather etc, will probably have as noted, low to mid 2000 lbs of payload. If you have a reg cab, few options etc.....You have as I do with my 2000 2500, 3800 lbs of payload. So with two people, hitch, and pin wt for a 17K trailer at 20%, I might pull it off. If I did not follow the gvwr on the door sticker, I know I would pull it off, as I have over 4500 lbs of payload using the axel capacities. Most of that is on the Rear axel.
Trailer tow capacity is not a legal term, nor is gcwr for that matter, but axel capacities WILL get you in trouble with the real wt police in weigh scales, IF you should find your self pulled over. 99.9% of us will not be pulled over, if not 99.9999999999999999999% or higher.
are we talking about a 6.5' bed vs 8' bed? or a 5.8' bed vs 8' bed?
Anything less than 8' = Girl Truck! :)
My eldest daughter would not agree to this. Any truck with a 35 or smaller is a sissy twuck, larger ones are better! Then again, both daughters learned to drive in my old dually LB CC twuck! Neither has driven the dump truck as of yet...........oh lordy, please help ALL people on the road that day!.........
A short bed crew cab is about the same length as a long bed ext cab. If you do not really need the bigger seats in the rear, an LB excab may be the better option for some of the reasons said above.
THen one needs to look at how the steering is on the truck you will buy. At one time, Fords LB CC could out turn a GM IFS ext cab with a LB on it, due to it having a better bigger angle the tires turn away from center. My Navistar with a 188" wb has a tighter turning radius than a typical 150" WB pickup, including the Ford, as it has a 54* turning of the wheels, vs 45-50 for pickups.
Choose the one that fits your butt the best. After that, minor differences, as many will say, ALL have the power, braking and engine to pull what ever you want. Some like Barney are still happy with motors that are half the hp/torque of todays motors. My 175/330 non turbo in my navistar dump truck does what I need it to do......If you like the look, buy it!
Most of that models trucks from about 89 on, have teh wires as std to the rear of the truck. YOu just have to put an actual harness on the rear to suit your needs.
Then an appropriate hitch etc. In 88 when that model truck came out, the trailer pkg included a hd radiator, and tranny oil cooler. after about 89 or 90, this too became a std item. So after this time, reality is, the ONLY part of the trailer two pkg you got when ordered, was the factory hitch! You should not have an issue overall getting yourself hooked up ready to go with a trailer in tow.
My Michigan license plates have been expiring on my birthday for quite a few years, not "as of this year". The only one that doesn't expire is the trailer plate.
Hmmmmmm.......... so this is why barney is still around, he has one of the non expiring plates on his trailer. If'n he had to use his truck plates......oh boy, he could be a goner eh! hmmmmmmmmm.........
Personally the rules of thumb about a bumper pull COULD be modified to 5w trailers also. But add in another about 4-6' for being farther forward over the axel vs behind x amount of inches. Or as I also mentioned, heavier chassis rigs can handle longer trailers vs lighter ones.
BUT, we are now into how big/small one can go, going by chassis strength if one will call it that. Then one needs to power it according to how and where you will drive the rig too. Reality is, choosing a given tow rig for a given trailer needs to have MANY factors/rules of thumb to come up with a proper tow rig for any of us. What works for me, may not work the person reading. When I had kids. many would say a 6500 lb trailer could be towed by a half ton. Well, by the time I put 4 adult sized teenaged kids, spouse nd myself in a typical half ton crew cab, I was at gvwr with 1200-1300 lbs of family wt, add in the dog, 150 lbs including crate, hw, rack, canoe, a bike or two or 6.....I needed some 3000 lbs of payload in the TV. That my friends is NOT a half ton twuck! A SW 350 or 25 series truck yes, but not a typical 15 series truck ability.
MIN WB for ANY trailer is 110" ie up to 20'
Then you need 3" of WB per 1 additional foot of trailer length
First -- the "rule of thumb" does not say a TV with WB less than 110" cannot tow any trailer. It just uses 110" as an arbitrary starting number for the "relationship".
Second -- the "rule of thumb", which frequently is attributed to the RV Consumer Group, says 20' TT for 110" WB, and then add 1' of TT length for each additional 4" of WD -- not 1' for each 3".
IOW, all those people with 130" WB Suburbans should not be towing trailers longer than 25' and a 157" WB pickup should not be towing more than 29' (if you want to believe the "rule").
Third -- AFAIK, nobody has ever produced any data or analysis to substantiate the "rule".
Oh so I am off an inch, not that it matters, I knew it was something like that. As as noted by the fellow with the smallish jeep.....not sure I would use this rule as a hard and fast rule either. If 110" equal 20', to me one would subtract the same WB length ratio going down. So if one has a 102" WB rig, you would limit yourself to 18' or there abouts. RV consumer group was the one to bring this rule out a number of years back.
I also believe if one is going to follow this rule per say. then one needs to figure out the how far behind the RA one is to start with, lengthen as it gets closer to the RA centerline, subtract as it gets farther away. If you have a typical car or half ton truck chassis, this works, if you have a typical 8000-10K 8 lug rig, you can lengthen it some, a dot class 3 some more, on up to a class8.
I am also not sure anyone HAS tested this rule of thumb, or the 2x grawr that I mentioned either, other than someone in the past has noted that these ratios seem to work in some shape or form.
I'm certainly NOT one to follow these at all times.
Do you have clearance on the trailer to add tires say 1-2" larger in diam? or the ability to do a spring over axle lift on the trailer, this adds about 5" to the trailer height.....altho a lot of 5w's show up from the factory with the springs over the axel to begin with, especially slide rigs.....
Another option, is new springs on the trailer with a 1-2" built in taller arch, or heavier springs. I went from 3500 to 4000 lbs springs on my old TT, and gained about an inch more clearance over stock, 2" over the original ones that were spent and ready to break......
Did the same on an equipment trailer going from 5200 lb springs to 6K springs.
altho there is a little rule of thumb some folks follow, goes something to the tune of.....
MIN WB for ANY trailer is 110" ie up to 20'
Then you need 3" of WB per 1 additional foot of trailer length
BUT, I believe this rule of thumb came about back in the days of staion wagons, sedans and the rare half ton truck pulling trailers..... with the more prevalent addition of heavier suspension trucks, longer body styles etc.... I personally am not sure this works completely, but it is a rule of thumb one can follow.......
THen again, the rule of thumb I was told to follow way back when I personally learned to tow in the late 70's, before GCWR ratings existed, max trailer wt was two times the rear axel rating of the tow rig......works well for me. As I find when I start hitting the 2.25-2.5 range, the tail wags the dog more than the dog wagging the tail!
Follow above rules as you see fit!