As for the paylaod comments, Ram will be playing the "HD half ton" game coming 2018. Never understood why anyone would buy a want-to-be 2500 for more or the same money? But the manufactures love selling sub par trucks to people that have too much money.
There is probably a number of us wanting a heavier half, or lighter 3/4ton or 15/25 series truck. I've noticed an equal to my 2000, 90's body style GM, that an equal 2500 has gone from my base weight of 4800 lbs empty, to close to 6000 lbs for a base reg cab rwd truck. Yeah the gvwr is up from 8600 to 9900 lbs.....so I gain all of 100 lbs net of the 1300 gvwr lbs I gained too! I can see where a 4500-5000 lbs tare truck, be it badged a 15 or 25, a rated gvwr in the 7700-8400 range, carry upwards of 4000 lbs, have the ability to order some of the 3.x-4L V6 forced induction motors producing 250-300 hp, torque in the 300-400 lb ft relm, with the current 6, 8, 10 sp auto transmissions, correct gearing, you would have a truck capable of mid 20 mpg empty, due to the epa mandates, smaller powerful motors that could move a truck that weighs 8000lbs well, along with tote an 8-10K trailer with relative ease. No it will not keep up the the 6.x L TD motors....but the owner does not expect it too either. I would consider trading my current truck on something like this frankly. This is a market that has been left alone. Its the, not all hammers fit the same hand, nail job etc.....One does not use a 6lb sledge to drive brads and tacks into things! Like wise, using a 4oz tack hammer to drive a 12" spike into something is rather useless too.
OK, So i am a year later and off........The mcehanical was a better version to hop up! to a degree.....
I still wish I had the 96! Altho it would probably have 400-500K miles on it....that part might not be too much fun!
i must be the luckiest guy in the world.bought a new 1993 6.5. sold it at 155000 never in the shop except for oil changes.now drive a 2003 6.0 ford.270000 only regular maintenance. knock on wood.
Mechanical injection. Better setup than the '94 and up models imo.
93/94 had the mechanical injection. IIRC it was 95 for the first electronic. I know 96 had it with the OBDII computer, 95 had the OBDI version......
Well, I NEEDED a sw 3500 with spouse 4 kids 2 150 lb Alaska malamutes, rack, canoe etc to tow a 6500-7000 lb loaded 24' trailer! Loaded 3000 lb onto empty truck weight! OP probably does not need a 35 series truck. BUT if he loads up a canopy, canoe, or other topper style boat, generator etc into bed, along with 700-800 potential lbs of hitch weight, he may very.well have 2000 lbs added to base weight of truck, as I would. A base gvwr 15 series will have pulling power, not so sure about payload capacity.....so a 25 be it an LD or typical HD 25 series might be better option. Also depends on cab style too.
So for most of us, we need to look at payload requirements, NOT series of truck. My regular cab 2500 has 300 lbs less payload per door sticker than my dually crew cab, along with 1200 MORE lbs of payload than the sw cc truck before that. There are some of the 7700 gvwr reg cab f150s with more payload than a diesel cc f250!
OP needs to think about payload needs along with HP gearing needs. Something many forget including myself once or twice.
Skip the 1500 150 option and go with a 25 series if you will be towing over 6-7K lbs or anykind of 5w. You will not have the payload. Power yes, payload NO! Get heaviest gvwr option you can, ie 7200-8400 in a 15 series.
LS yes, air no.
These were GM trucks, which has the best LS/Locking rear end of the big three. My 88 K3500 with an open diff was useless in rwd, did better in 4wd. My 96 sw 3500 crew cab and the 05 dually had the G80 locker. I went places in rwd the 88 needed 4wd. Including pulling local passes in rwd when chains or 4wd were required! Got thru mud and wet grass in rwd.....rarely needed 4wd in a generally speaking term. Had the g80 in an 89 Astro van too, compared to the 2000 awd no g80. Both did fine in snow etc. But the 89 did well with correct tires. worst case, throw chains on it, it was keeping up with the 88, 96 left it behind for the most part.
I personally for most of how I drive, would take a locked rwd over an oven 4wd. There are times a locked rwd will out do an open rear 4wd, and vice versa. A locked 4wd is best.
As far as axel ratios go.....I'll take the lowest I can ALL the time. Lower gears get you up steeper grade before stalling out! Even with the newer transmissions with lower gears vs older one, better to have the too low option vs too tall for towing, but better mpg empty. Then again, I'vebeen stalled out on 15-20+ percent grades locally enough that I go full tilt toward torque multiplication to tow up steeper grade.
Thats not as bad a truck as some think for an LD2500. The trans is or should be a 4l80E, not the normal 4l60 put in 6 lug trucks. Rear is was supposed to be a full floater, do not remember if it is the typical 9.5" or a 10.5" rear. power wise, being a 6 lugger, it is short of the 8 luggers, at 175 vs 185. Torque is around 330-350 vs 385. Being a 95, it is the first year of the electronic injection pump.
If it has some overheating issues, put the post 97 fan, dual t-state setup and that helps tremendously this issue. Also remember to use a robert shaw or std GM t-stat, not a stant or equal. As those do not flow as much water, and will cause some overheating too! You can also put a later model turbo on it, ie bigger capacity, that also help cool it better. If you have access to being able to time the motor, try to get it to -1.94. That seems to be the best place for that motor. The manual NV4500 5 sp option kept the engine cooler, and had better performance than the auto version.
At one time, TheDieselpage.com had some of the best info for how to take care, use, tune better etc the 6.5 motor. Not sure if that info is still on the site, hopefully it is. It helped a lot to keep my 96 6.5 moving. It was not the worst engine I had, not the best either. It worked well for what it was. With 175 hp it will not be a barn burner of a motor, but it will get the job done.
Hopefully your friend enjoys the truck.
Pull with the rig before you decide to put a tuner in. you may find with the gearing, you already have plenty of power to do what you want. Then again, some can never have enough HP. Just depends upon where the HP is put out. If like my Vortec 350, if it all comes at higher revs, ie above 4-5000, I'm rarely in the 4000+ relm, so what good does a tuner giving me a max say300hp vs the 200-255 i use? Just something to kick around.
Remember, HP keeps you moving. Torque gets you going! Been stuck on the bottom of a grade with a higher HP motor but badly geared for torque multiplication. Meanwhile the rig with a lower tow rating, even under rated for the task, but correctly geared, goes up the grade heavier than the higher rated rig! With 3.23 gear sets, you are geared really tall! Even with a trans with a decent 1st gear ratio from a towing standpoint. Hence why many including myself are suggesting gears first. THEN, if you need more HP for the freeway useage, go with a tuner etc. As this HP/power will be increased in the higher rpm range, along with as noted a different shift points.
My son has a friend that took out the 3.42 gears, put in 4.10's, major improvment in mpg, towing ability etc. He has thought about the same for his 4.8L V8 1500. 2500-3000 for the two pumkins can be a hit......
While you and others do say can not have too much HP! reality is, if it is not properly setup, HP can be useless if you can not get the correct power to the ground at take off, such that you do not take off.....says the person with a few blown trannies from lack of gearing, torque etc......
By the way, my 92 IHC with a non turbo 175/330 7.3 diesel will pull 30K lbs up a 30 percent grade, my 05 dmax would only do 20K up a 26 percent grade before the tall gears would not let it go up the grade. Speed on a 4 percent freeway grade was better with the 300+ hp dmax.......freeway grades are not the only place I tow.
You want the proper combo of HP and torque multiplication.....you are lacking the torque multiplication currently! Fix that part first!
@ng2951, speaking of misinformation, to my knowledge there wasn't a Dmax built 25 or 3500 with an OE lift pump. Not sure that has changed with the LML and new LP5 even.
I know neither model had a LP back in the day.
Maybe his brain is thinking the 6.5TD? They had a lift pump as I recall.
That brings up the question of......When am I not towing and or hauling, so why bother having a normal shift pattern, why not just program the trans to ALWAYS be in tow haul mode! Works for me!
Reality is, when I had my 05 dmax with a TH mode, did not seem to matter other than downhill grade braking, if I had a load, foot was to the metal per say, it shifted later on its own......
My son has that motor in his 1500 reg cab. He's pulled trailers upwards of 7K lbs with his. Yes a dmax pulls things faster per say, but as long as he lets it rev, he gets the ponies he needs, along with speed!
He has 3.42 gears, and the 4l60E 4 sp auto....
The tow pkg, is nothing more than a hitch.and wiring. Those were not supplied way.back in the day.I started buying trucks. The limit is based on the bumper, literally!
Put a.hitch, brake controller and go. This is assuming you have something more than the 4.3 v6. Even that little motor will get you to many places.
I'd do it with what you have. You will not be loaded to max trailer weight. You may be more at 4500-5000 loads.
BIG issue frankly is not the weight, but how much frontal area and wind drag causes from a power perspective.
As I understand laws......yes I would be.
Likewise, as my 2000 c2500 has a paid for plate of 8000 lbs, if I were to go to my door sticker, great pulled over and weighed, I would technically speaking, 600 lbs over weight.
Federal bridge laws, also state, if a states enforces a lower max rating, federal road funds can and will be with held from that state. Just because you meet the max load of 20k or 34k lbs per axle or tandem, does net mean if your rig is unsafe, etc that an Leo.can not get you.off the road due to another statute, law, rule etc depending upon what that state calls them. You can also be limited per axle to 500 lbs per inch.minimum. to carry the full 20k, you will need 20" of tire per side of an axle. You may be able to go higher per axle or tire width. I know of a few exceptions....
IF you lived in Wa st, you paid for tab as far as weight, is 150 percent of tare to next higher ton. So if you weigh 7500 lbs, times 1.5 equals 11250, to 12K gvw. You would be legal to that weight, assuming you have paid for that tonnage. Does not matter if the door sticker says 8600 to 11400, 25 or 35 series on the door......
Been pulled over at 150 percent of door sticker, weighed, never gotten an over weight ticket, as I was under the bridge load law! RCW45.xxx will get you Washingtons laws on weights and how they are enforced. I've even had LEO's from this state pipe up that the door sticker is meaningless here. Would guess this is true elsewhere also!
NOW, not recommending going over the door sticker is fine, but to say it is illegal is incorrect.
Unless you need warranty work, and dealer will not send a mobile person, that would be ONLY reason to tow trailer somewhere. OR YOU pay for mobile service, they pay for time at jobsite. If it is not warranty work, you can usually find a mobile person to go work on trailers like this. You could be driving a prius for that matter.
BUT, as noted, depending upon the legality in your area, you should be fine towing that trailer to and from a shop, or for that matter, down to FL if you want to snowbird.