First off, whatbyoubwant to do is VERY possible. Issue I see is potential lack of payload or power in 15 series truck. Even a 25 might have issues.........but, I personally see how this can be done.
As noted, a toy hauler with.enough garage space. A pickup with a rack correctly located. Or a boat trailer behind a 5w will also work depending upon the jurisdictions you travel thru.
All numbers need to be wieghed along with the power requires to do the task you need to do.
As I noted, very poster to do frankly. Not sure a 15 will do it depending upon model etc.
ALL four of those rigs have the same transmission, a 4l80E or maybe the 4l85e. That is not the issue. It is the power and gears per say. BUT, doing as you were thinking, any 2500 series truck with a 6K axel, back in the really old days would be rated to about 2x the grawr which would be 12K, before going over where the trailer wags the truck per say. Back then, you would then choose the power train per the performance you want doing what you want to do. Hence why the 4 burbs have different ratings. The 8.1/4.10 setup should tow about the same as the 6.0/3.73 setup with the rated trailers.
This is not to say that the 6.0/3.73 could not safely tow an 11K trailer across the US. It could! then again too, the 8.1 setup could very well be unsafe towing a 5K trailer across the US too. There is more to towing than "JUST" a drive train tow rating.
I'm 13 yrs younger, had diesels twice minimum as long. First was 89 or there abouts..........I'm sure a few ran them before this on here. That time and before was a whole different arnimal when it came to deezals.......1/3 to 1/4 the HP and half the torque at best for equal sized motors. Black smoke, no turbo sometimes...... IHC used to use new V8 designs as gas rigs before turning them into diesel designs......oh the differences in motors back then......
Was you first diesel a 2007,5? If so, your a young punk when it comes to diesel....... you don't know what it was like with them no steenkin turbo 8l motors putting out a whopping.g 120 mouse power! You needed additives in them days or the.vs had issues.
I personally would want a one or the other. I have extended chains with chains before. but it was not always my first choice. I can see a cable being a bit nicer at times. Then again, if you have multiple rigs as I do/did pulling the same trailer(s), chains can be better as you make them as long as you need for the rig with longest safety harness needs. then twist the chain to make it shorter for the rig with a smaller/shorter need.
I see locally dump trucks with pup trailers, they ALL use cables for the safety device. I would bet most states allow one to choose, based on what is best for the application. You would need a deck of a large diameter and heavy chain vs a cable for said pup dump.trailer. hence why cables are used.
Being as the GVWR/GAWR are heavier/ larger than before, which is what and how the brake capacity is taken from. I think one can assume the brakes should be better per say.
Reality is, to know if they are really better IMHO, you need to compare rigs with like capacities in the gawr/gvwr to know if braking is better. No use comparing 35 series trucks, if you are comparing a 10k, vs a later 11.4k vs some of the current 13k gvwr model. As yes, the newer ones will be better. Lets compare a 99 35 series 10k to a current 25 series 10k model......those might be the same, hopefully better.
I've seen Barney the towing mod with a BIG gooseneck trailer hooked to his Harley! That truck looks more than ample to me........oh wait, its not a tandem axel class8, so it cant pull a thing.......somebody had to say it!
GM uses the Eaton, the strongest of the bunch. IIRC Ford uses a mid range strength style limites slip, Dodge the weakest.....Might be the other way around too.......
Randys R&P is in Everett, so pretty close to you depending upon where you are in Wa st.
I got quoted 1200 or so to put an eaton in my GM pickup that is open. IIRC I have a 9.5" RA. Might be the AAM10.5 or GM C14....it is not the biggest RA that goes in to GM 2500's of the 2000 year. I've had 3 other rigs with Eatons, they work very well. Last two pickups, I went places in rwd where I needed 4wd with the pickup before that did not have a limited slip. Ex wifes Astro did better with the Eaton than the 88 pickup I had did in snow/ice etc.
The eaton is probably the best limited slip out there, or the least effective locker per say vs a Detroit. THose are fun at times. The eaton is a good mix of locker vs limited slip, with good overall road manners no matter the conditions.
I would swag the van I use at work could do 8000 lbs. As it would weigh (just) under 6000 lbs with 2 people on board, with a 15K gvwr, that leaves 9000 lbs before hitting the gvwr. BUT, if you put the rig at gvwr, ie 8500 or say 8000, now you are left with 7000 max. It would probably do as my 96 GM 6.5 did with similar specs as far as speeds etc. 40's on 4-5% freeway grades.
Larger than this, I would not recommended it per say.
A 6% grade, assuming 15000 how, with 90 sq ft of frontal area will require about 135hp on a level. Then additional 40 hp per 1% grade. So 6x40= 240 +135= 375hp to go 60 mph. Now add in 7000 feet of election , you need another 15-20% of sea level hp, so over 400 hp to go 60mph at elevation at that weight and frontal area. Does the op have 400+hp to go 60 mph. Probably not. Not sure an 8 lug right with a diesel has the 375 hp for the most part......
As someone said, plan on going30-40 mph, in the right lane, in 2 nd gear, or what ever gear is below direct. Enjoy the climb.
Oh 7% grades are steep for an Ioverstate, but here in the greater Seattle area. I've gone up local roads that are in the low to mid20% range. Those are fun no matter the hp, unless you have the proper LOW gears between Axel and mostly tranny 1st gear is important.
UTV in the bed while towing a trailer?
Truck camper in the bed while towing toys?
What's the weight of a midsized truck camper? 1,500lbs? Tongue weight of a trailer with a couple of ATV's? 150-200lb's at most.
UTV has to fit with the tail gate closed if you're going to tow a TT. Will that even fit? And if it does, that's still only ~1,000lbs plus a max of say 6,000lb TT would total 1,600lb's payload.
Not seeing the need for 3,000lb payload unless you're hauling for work, as Marty said.
Typical truck campers may come in 1500 lbs with no options and nothing loaded, but once you get into the better quality ones, add some options and load your gear, your easily over 2000 lbs before you add people and the tongue weight of toys or boat you have in tow. With a travel trailer, let's start with 500 lb family in the cab, 1000 lbs of toys or junk in the bed and then add 1000 lbs of hitch weight.
Lets not forget, one will add at least 300 lbs into ANY rv for a single person, potentially upwards of 500 lbs for clothes, food, and other assorted stuff. So a 1500 base wt truck camper is upwards of 3000 lbs loaded! My TT we added some 2000-2500 lbs for my family of 6, 3000 during ski season when the ski's etc were added to the mess. Along with full water, lp tanks. Many times 1/4- 1/2 of the waste tank was still full from the weekend before.....
1500 lbs of payload was taken up by 1200 with my family of 6 on board when 4 kids were adult sized teens. I needed 2500-3000 lbs of payload for the truck with my family, hitch wt, canoe, 2 - 150 lb malmutes etc.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but what's the point of a midsized truck with a 3,000lb payload in the context of RVing?
You're certainly not going to be pulling a large 5th wheel with a 2,500lb pin weight. You're certainly not going to be loading it up with quads or snowmobiles.
Might be great for a work truck, but doesn't really mean squat in the RV world.
red letters, not everyone uses there trucks as an RV use only. Probably 30-50% or more of trucks are used in construction industries where payload is more of an issue than if it can pull a trailer. I never truly needed a 1 ton to tow my rv trailer. But the equipment trailer I had a 7000 lbs bobcat and 3000 lb excavator DID need a 1 ton to haul and tow it! I could easily some days use an older 150-200hp V6 in a 1 ton dually for what I do with these trucks a lot. I do not need a lot of HP to move 15-20K lbs upwards of 45-50 mph on 2-4 lane city, county and state roads. Interstates 60 mph needs a bit more, but the amount I am on them is less than 5% of the time.
While granted this forum is an RV based forum, many like myself use there truck in more than one relm of a pickups usage. I choose the harder use for what I will buy, how I use it etc. RV'ing is light duty vs construction use. Ever see a 3/4 ton pickup with 6 600-800 lbs rocks in the bed?!?!?!??? been there done that! Or 2 3000 lbs pallets of concrete pavers or wall blocks? yep, been there done that! a 6500lb axel and 750 lbs hitch wt TT in the RV relm is pretty easy. The equipment trailer with 1500-1600 lbs of dead wt pintle hitch and 11K-12K on the axels, along with a ton or two in the bed......that gets a bit more fun mind you!
Man are some of you being whiny snivelly snots!
Who cares where the rig is from. If it works for someone, then it is a good rig. If not for you, oh well, find the one that works for you! I'd personally love a ranger sized or mid sized rig with 3000 lbs of payload! I remember my 76 toyota could out haul most of the 15 series GM, fords and dodge full size trucks by 500 lbs or so! Speed wise not, but hauling wise, no problemo!
The US is but 1/10 or 20th of the overall world market! Hence why some rigs are for here and here only!
I'll take the long 10' bed if they are making them now. Otherwise std 8' bed. Nothing less than 8' for me! This is no matter the body style. I also did not know trucks had to fit in a garage! mine have been too tall with ladder/pipe/lumber racks in most cases.
Coopers should be available local to you. Discount tire and a lot of independents carry them. I've sworn by them for 20+ years. Only tire I have not had a blow up or otherwise with. My son has some on his pickup, 20-30K miles with a 60K mileage warranty, you can hardly tell they are worn.
On the other hand, a van I drive for work has the Firestone HT on it. I have 20+K miles and they also look hardly worn. Maybe the OEM version is not as hard, or long lasting rubber as the in store version.
I would pull it as is. I personally have found it better with single axel trailers to be in the 15-18% HW range. 12-15 is fine for dual axel setups. This is MY experience towing multiple trailer for personal, and business use in my landscape biz. Not that you have paid a lot for this personal opinion......:B
Finally looked this product up on a real computer vs smart phone.....
Looks like a good product. Not sure it will wear any better for use in a construction industry biz where one is loading and unloaded a truck 3-5 times a day etc. It may wear worst with constant shoveling of material out of it. BUT, for those that have caps, etc, looks like a better product than the line-x, rhino liner, inserted bed liners that are out there. Or like my sons that are in hoe construction, have a cap, crawl into the bed to get tools out etc upon occasion, probably better etc than the spray in.
All these products have a place, just which will be better for the end user. some day the bed rug will be the better option for me......
There is the chebby for the chubby folks,
Frods for those that say the wrong things,
Dogdes, oops rams for Engines Gone Dead On Drivers.....
Toy tonka twucks,,,,, that DO have 1 tons and larger DOT classification trucks....ie "HINO" branded trucks......some people do not know there brands.....
I also like the red color is fastest, white lightest etc......
Twuck buying is a game, get the one YOU like. After that, who cares........other than those that like to troll for fish...........