You don't have the authority to change the GVWR or GAWR.
That's great! Ihad no idea it would be so easy. Can you print me a new sticker for my truck?:R
This internet stuff just keeps getting better. More things that were previously hard or impossible to get are becoming easy every day.:B
Depending upon the state you live in, they may not recognize the door sticker as being the law per say. Only what you pay in fees to drive down the road. So in a sense, yes it is easy to change out the gvwr of a given rig by paying money to your local licensing agent. I've had 8600 gvwr rigs licensed to 12K, an 18200 licensed at 26K, been pulled over at 27k, no overweight ticket mind you. Just told to up license to 28K with in 10 days. As I was under the road bed design limit. Ie 20K per axel, or 500 lbs per inch width of tire, which ever is less. Also assuming your axel are spread apart enough to "BRIDGE" the load over the road bed enough. Hence "Federal Bridge Laws" from a weigh load issue.
With this in mind.....AN LEO CAN and WILL get you off the road if you have an unsafe rig. For the OP, this will not be enough to worry about.
Taller tires as noted WILL lower you initial take off ability. Going from a 31" diam tire and say 4.10's to a 32" diam tire, will now net you an approx 3.95 axel ratio. Go up 2" you are now a 3.73 effictive ratio.
GCWR is a performance standard, look at the new SAE ratings, it is not a law that you can not go over this ratings. Nor is the gvwr that the manufacture lists a law. I have yet to see this stated in ANY states I have looked up. Including here in Washington state where I am. All that matters is the paid for slip of paper in my truck. If I am over this amount....techniquely I am over weight. Even if at say 8200 lbs on my 2000 C2500 which has a door sticker of 8600 lbs, but over my paid for license of 8000 lbs. Or it can go the other way as noted above re in my dumptruck one day.
Assuming you do not need a traction tire of too much sort, the Toyo and firestone ht models have done me well. No neither has the same traction of an at, but still overall dang good if on dry to rain wetted roads. If you get into slimy dirt, snow etc, yes, all bets are off on going forward or not. You did mention you have a second set of winter tires, so these may work.
I'm also running a discount tire at right now. To me, more of an aggressive why tire. Not bad in snow last winter. Have had better snow traction ok n tires, but worked. 60k mileage warranty, with 8000 miles, show little wear. Not bad for.one of the cheapest tires I found in a 245-75-16 at $125 per, vs most in the 150-200 range.
I concur with some, michiblows are last on my list of brands to buy. Cooper and toyo are usual first choices.
Now that I.think about it, the 88R/V chassis also had tho except for the.C7P 10500 giver C7P chassis set up like my 89. While.the.same hp torque specs, the.power.curve was.enough.different that the 88 K3500 felt more.powerfully than the 89 R3500.
I also do not remember that axle.differences enough on smaller rigs. Other than what I recall from earlier postings. I could not get a locker with a BB in my 88 due.to using a dana70 vs the ff c14 in later models like my 96 k3500.
The tbi and carb versions of.the.4.3, 350 and 454 were way.under powered vs the.vortex.models. Had a 2000 4.3 safari van that felt every.bit as.strong as pre vortec 350s. My.vortex 350 is stronger than 454s mentioned.
88 c3500 big block powered dually owner chiming in, you know the condition of the truck and how it has towed other stuff. Yhe bottom line is it comfortable for you, I know these older trucks sure slow down uphill compared to new diesel-powered rigs, I travel and enjoy my old truck and no big payment.
"IF" your 88 is a dually, and 2wd, you have an "R3500" IIRC, A V3500 is the 4wd version. Altho it might be the other way around. Been a long time since 1988. I would also swag you have a 4bbl 454.....altho a bell is ringing it may be a tbi. Which my 88 round body would go thru tbi spacer gaskets every 40-50K or so. Made it from almost gutless, to gutless! My 2000 vortec 350 has more umph than the 88 tbi or 4bbl 454 in an 89 square body flatbed.
The only dually in 88-92 or so, was the 80's square body, not the 88 intro of the 90's more rounded body style GM. Which in "MY" eye, the best looking GM since I started buying them in 81. I am positive some like current body styles.....to each his own.
For those that do not remember. In 88 this was the first year for that body style. ALL 3500's were 8600 gvwr setups, ALL 2500's were a 7200 gvwr, and 1500's a 6600 gvwr. THERE WAS NOT a dually in this body style until 90 or 91. The 2500HD came out in 89 or 90 which only had a tbi 350, along with the 8 lug 8600 gvwr. The SW 3500 now had a 9200 gvwr. Then the dually came out it had a typical 10K gvwr with a 7500 grawr.
Then if the OP is correct with WB, a 141 is a 6' bed, if he had an 8' bed as my 88 had, it would be a 155" WB. A BB in 88 had a dana 70, the 350 the Corp 14 bolt rear axel.
Anyway, max gcwr with this rig is 13500, unless he has 4.56 gears, which would put him at 15K. 3.73's would be 12500, and 3.42s 11500. Heaven for bid he has 3.08's, that would be 10500! The chassis will handle a larger trailer, but as noted, with a whopping 185hp, and not even 300 lbs ft of torque, he will be hurting in the power category from a speed standpoint. My 96 Crew cab with a 185/385 6.5 TD and a NV4500 did pretty good with a 6500 lb trailer, total gcw around 15K. but I was down to 35-40 on 3-5% grades in 3rd, ie gear below direct. That was a better towing tranny than the th400 or 4l80E auto setups, no matter the RA in it. 4.10s like I had were the cats meow from a gearing split stand point. If you had the munci 4sp, and 3.42's, your overall low, and high gear ratio were on par with the 4.10 nv4500. Pretty much from a performance stand point, equal.
With that particular 350, keep yourself under 6000 lbs loaded. Not sure of Adel ratio, more than likely a 4.10. Granny should be a th400 auto. Or if you have a manual, srm465 Muncie. Better of two granny options.
I had a long box ext cab and a 454 auto 410s, 2nd worst GM I've ever owned. Worst was a 89 R3500 flatbed.
Marty a 6L90 would be nice for sure, but I don't think the electronics are compatible...I'm sure it could be done with a custom tune tho....hmmmmmmmm:h:h:h
There fixed it for you! might be worth asking about if you have to come up with any money.
I was about to put a BUILT 700R4 behind some of my th400's in the past, but got rid of both. That trans of all things is the ONLY auto I have had go over 150K miles! That was in an Astro van. It has better/lower first gear ratio vs the th400/4L80 that you have. This is why you could be killing the trans as it did me. Not low enough of a ratio. I have heard of putting the 1st and 2nd gear from a 4l60/700r4 into the th400/4L80 body also with good results. This is an off roaders trick to getting better low speed control.
DO NOT USE gcwr less vehicle wt to get max tow rating! If you are at gvwr before loading a trailer, you have NO ability to safely tow a trailer! unless you can do this with no hitch wt in a safe and sane manner.
Take loaded truck with family on board, from gvwr, then take this number divide by HW % you need, you have max trailer you can tow. If you have 1000 lbs left over, 10% gives you a 10K trailer. If you need 20% for a 5w, you have all of 5000 total lbs of trailer capacity. This is the absolute best way to figure out how heavy of a trailer your rig can handle.
If the setup is balanced correctly etc, you have not taken as noted, too much weight off the FA, you should NOT NEED a WD or sway control. If you do not.....as noted, all bets are off. I've had an unbalanced equipment trailer that weighed 8500 lbs, with ALL of the wt on the axels, no hitch wt, dang near take a 12K empty dumptruck off the road with a 26K gvwr and 35K gcwr. I've seen a tandem dually Kenworth, with a swaying flatbed incorrectly loaded fore and aft wise. I've seen a 5W behind one of the supposedly can do no wrong Dogde fummins things swaying away!
BUT, as noted by many, you SHOULD be able with a ball or pintle mounted trailer pull upwards of 60-65 in any condition with out sway etc IF it is setup correctly. I have gone thru 50 mph side winds with my old TT in the Columbia river gorge without issues. Yeah the whole rig went sideways, rocked side to side with the higher gusts, But even with a dual cam in similar situations, I felt the wind. Altho a WD only, feels the wind less than nothing, and a dual cam is better than a WD only.
Wonder if you can stuff a 6l90E in your rig. Better gearing, better miles out of the trans overall.......Sorry to say I am not surprised. ALL of the TH400/4l80E transmissions I have had behind BB V8's doing heavy duty towing and hauling have averaged 30-35K between rebuilds! That too is with 5K flushes and filter changes. First gear is way the hecko to tall for getting loads moving. hence it will heat up with out trying. I have a 95K on y 2000 C2500 with a 350. But it has not had near as hard a life as the BB setups did. This is mostly a grocery getter, smaller 3500 lb single axel mower trailer puller. BUT, it still has to go up some steeper 15-20% grades to get to job sites.
I have over 60K on a set of HTs on a work sprinter van. Have found them to work fairly well on wet roads. Then again, I am only moving a van. I would have a hard time with the they will not work towing on dry or wet roads either. Anyway, should get 70 maybe 80K out of the tires. Also as I have noted many times, some rigs types of driving gets good tire useage, others horrible. My pickups and landscape trucks have typically gotten 20-30% less than ave. BUT, overloaded a lot, Doing local roads turning a LOT, stop and go a LOT. These factors net you less miles than all freeway miles, no matter the rig, tire type etc.
I too would save the $200 and go with the HT's. If they do not work, you will figure it out real soon, as such, could probably get a reasonable trade in on something that works better for your application.
Who wants to shovel a yard of gravel out of any truck anyway :H
I gave that idea up years ago, but maybe the younger guys still do it.
I hand off loaded 5400 lbs of one man rock out of 2500 one day, went back the next and got 3900! then wheel barrowed it to the back yard. Did the same with 11 yds of topsoil......a few dozen plants......
Then got paid to do so! Can not always get a bobcat or equal into a yard! or space. So 1-3 yd loads in a pickumup is the only way to do things.
30 sacks time 60 or 80 lbs sacks is 1800-2400 lbs. Probably on the very high end of what that ridgeline could do, but doable for short jaunts. No different than the 5400 lbs I put in the back of my 2500! It should be noted, my 2500 is a reg cab, with a whopping three options on it. Weighs under 5000 lbs out of the factory! 5400 with me in it, and a pipe/lumber rack etc Door sticker on this truck is 300 lbs shy of my old crew cab dually dmax! 3800 vs 4100!
I actually DROVE thru Tacoma today on way to gig harbor, Bremerton, port Townsend, Poulsbo back to Seattle via a ferry boat.
I was in a freightliner sprinter van. Have driven thru in a Toyota, a number of gm s, even a frod, no dodges yet......guess I've dodged that bullet.....
Oh, it.does not smell.as.bad as it used too. Not as many smelters in town....
You will probably find no bars has a bit more side to side rocking in cross winds than a basic WD system. A dual cam or equal will have a bit less. As far as towing straight, you should be able to do this with out bars, then add bars for more protection if you will. I've towed loads to 13K ball/pintle mounted and NO bars just fine, Along with oh SHEET!. Trailer was loaded incorrectly, and my equipment trailer loaded to 8500 lbs, with ALL of that on the axels was all over the road, despite the dumptruck that weighs in a 12K lbs in the front. A bigger dually style truck is not always the answer. But moved bobcat forward, corrected the HW to axel wt ratio. towed like a dream. Whether behind my reg cab pickup with an 8K rating, my dually dmax or sw CC 3500. If the trailer is incorrectly loaded etc, you WILL have issues, unless you have a hensley. Even then, yes it stops sway, but if the system brakes, you now have an uncontrollable trailer behind you.
I find generally speaking, if I lose on a typical 8600-10K SW 25 or 35 series truck, somewhere between 300-400 lbs off the FA, then handling goes south per say. Be this with a load in the very back of the bed, or a hitch! Under this, not so may problems. I also find, the amount off the front is not linear. Ie always say 20 lbs per 100 lbs of HW. It is more like 5-10 lbs the first 100, 10-20 for the next, 20-30 for the next etc etc. At 1000 lbs of HW, you will literally take 100 off the front for that 100 you had in HW, so a total of 200 lbs to the axel. maybe a total of 50% as one persons math says, but less than this amount, you will be less, and over way more than the ratio suggests. This will vary based on WB, size engine in the front, rear axel spring rating, be it a stiff or soft suspension also can vary the amount off the front vs the amount added to the rear.
At the end of the day, if properly setup, yes you will be safe. Probably safer per say with a dual cam or equal. BUT, i have had bars fall off, so best as mentioned earlier, make it so you can safely tow the trailer with no sway and no bars, then add the bars for extra measure.
Just my own findings after 35-40 years of towing various and sundry trailers.
Sounds like an issue for a person when I first started posting on here 10 something years ago. The main posters said add a sway bar. I said to add hitch wt. I got chewed out for not recommending a sway bar, only doing the hitch wt. Person added hitch wt, and could go to 70 mph with NO issues. He then added a smaller sway bar kit for added measure.
I've found with the single axel trailers I used for my landscape biz with mowers etc, that getting into the 15-18% range vs 11-14 or so for a dual axel, that it helped keep the sway at bay.
Some other issues NOT mentioned. How is the side to side load? if one side is heavier by say 400-500 lbs, then that could contribute to sway also. Also possible. the tire portion of the axel is not in alignment. rare but possible. Along with one tire being having the tread shifted, other is running smooth, one is lumpy, very slight, but still able to move a trailer sideways.
There is NO reason to go to a LR E 10ply rated tire on your truck. If the P rated tires are doing fine, then stick with them. Just choose a tread pattern that fits your driving habit.
My sons put LR E tires on a GM 1500, and a Tacoma Tacoma, neither puts more than 40-45 lbs in the tires. So a P metric at 51 would be fine for them too!
Some of you need to get off of the j2087 specsas being the end all be all of ratings.
Max initial start grade is all off 12%. I had to pull my track hoe up a 20% earlier today to get to a job site. A 20 to better yet, 30% grade for min starting in first and reverse would make me smile. Current spec is useless for many of us in how we use trucks.
Min speed on a 5% grade is 35/40 mph depending on gvwr/gcwr of truck. DOT class 3 and smaller is 40mph. Class 4 and heavier 35mph. Min speed in Washington state where I am on a freeway grade is 40mph. 45 minimum would open my eyes. Current spec s again useless, as I could get a moving too slow, impeding traffic ticket with SAE specs.
I do not see ANYTHING reason to hold this spec higher than previous not performance spec what does it rate.
I have to pull over in a commercial rig here in Wa st, from 16K total on up. be it an S-10 pickup pulling a commercial style trailer, or a class 8 semi into the WSP/DOT scales for weighing etc! If I am pulling over a 10K trailer yet under the 26K limit, IIRC I still need a class A license. If over 26K, I most certainly do, as do ALL of the hotshotters one sees. They have to follow ALL of the laws that Class 8 OTR rigs need to follow, max hours of driving, no more than X lbs per axel etc.
One can generally speaking IMHO go over the gcwr of a given rig, tow safely UP TO the highest rated drivetrain of a given chassis. IE, if you have a V6 vs a mid 5L with twice the tow rating. You can more than likely tow at the double the rating and be fine. Yes, been there done that. Only it was an I6 vs a BBv8. The I6 generally did better at slower speeds up steeper grades. The BB V8 with an auto would stall out on 20+% grades at 12K lbs, The I6 would go up the hill at 12K lbs, yet had a gcwr equal to the gvwr of the truck, 8600 lbs vs the BB with a 16K gcwr.
You can be unsafe UNDER tow rating too. Towed an 8K trailer with my MDT dumptruck, loaded the bobcat wrong, ie no hitch wt, dang near took me off the road. Put the bobcat correctly on the trailer, no issues! Yes I am WAY under the max for that truck at 8K lbs of trailer.
I generally will not tow over 2x the grawr of the rig. A 15 series with a 3K-4K RA, max would be 6-8K lbs of trailer, as long as I am under axel limits. Same with 25 series rigs with 6-7K axels, max 12-14K trailer.
I've towed many miles with my 96 K3500 with a 12500 gcwr ALL because it had the NV4500 in it, vs the TH400/4L80E auto. It towed faster, did not overheat as much, could pull a steeper grade without stalling out etc. Not sure why it was rated less....I towed upwards of 12K worth of equipment trailer with a bobcat and mini trackhoe on it, no issues.
Properly setup, one can pull more than one thinks. Problem is, will it meet your performance specs vs the engineers that say what it can tow!