IMHO, you did quite well overall. Slowing to 50 mph on the steeper interstate grade with a motor of you specs is frankly, probably pretty normal. Even if you would have had something.g more aerodynamic, like an Airstream, you probably would not have been going that much faster. If at all, as you probably did what a lot of us do, when we realize we can not hold 60, 50 or what ever speed on a grade except by being something close to realize, we slow down to an rpm that is high enough to keep our speed up, yet have some cushion if we need to accelerate some. I'm going to swag your motor is simaler to the diesel in the sprinter I drive. Upper 2000 to low 3000 pulling a steeper hill, no issues if I can not he the gear above it.
BUT, as you say, a lower trailer, more aerodynamic etc would probably been more fun per say, I feel you could continue renting this trailer for a trip like this for years to come and not hurt your rig.
"A jack knife across other lanes" could have occured with a rig UNDER ALL of its ratings. So this example is on the bogus end of things! At the end of the day, ANY trailer can jack knife! The person with the jack knifed trailer was not charged with a weight issue!
With this in mind....I used to pull a 12K equipment trailer, granted a pintle hitch with my 96 SW K3500 CC. While it did ok, one could tell the tail was somewhat in charge. Hence why I also recommend no trailer larger than 2x the GRAWR. As mine was 6080 due to tires, 6400 lb spring pack IIRC. I changed out to 8500 lbs springs, it handled way better. Later I realized about the same as my 05 dually with 8500 lb rear suspension. Dually part made no difference.
My experience with be to say, do not do this! with out some mods to the rear suspension!
If you have to guess or do a best swag. You could use 15% of everything loaded goes to be, since you have a ball mount. But reality is that will not work depending upon the model of trailer you have. An front kitchen trailer may be a bit higher vs a rear kitchen vs a toy hauler may add very little hitch at, as the garage is over to behind the axles.
Reality is, best to weigh it and play from there.
Tow ratings are not safety ratings per say. ONLY performance stds. IE what Larry is mentioning. I've towed 150-200% of a rigs tow rating with no issues from a safety standpoint. Meanwhile, a trailer that was 1/3 the max rating was loaded incorrectly, started to fishtail sway, and dang near took me off the road! This latter incident is what I would call a safety issue. This is solved with proper loading etc.
But as noted by Larry, Frontal area is NOT a forced factor in ratings much. Meanwhile weight is. BUT, a rig at 15K lbs with 70sqft of frontal area, needs about 105hp to go 60 mph. Meanwhile, same rig with 90sqft needs 135hp. Same hp as a 25K rig with 70sqft! These numbers can also vary by plus/minus 30% depending upon the total aerodynamics of the rig too.
I've had a rig rated to 16K gcwr, but it could not go up a 20% grade at 12K. Meanwhile, the rig with a gcwr literally 100 lbs LESS than its 8600 gvwr, went up the hill with at 12K. The latter had better low end grunt gears vs the one with over double the HP and 1/3 more torque!
In 30 yrs of towing, I have found safety is the human factor, along with tow ratings, but one better know what the spec is the engineer that specs the tow rating is using vs my needs! That engineer usually has a lower expectation on some things than I do.
Put brakes on the trailer. I used to go thru brakes every 15K with an 89 1 ton before putting brakes on the 3500 SA trailer I had. I then went to over 30K on the front brakes!
Otherwise, yeah, go to a different brake setup int he front. Or do something to the rear drums to make them more aggressive. I would get 15-25K out of the fronts, 125K out of the drums with 8 lug rigs from 81-96 I have had doing what you are doing with an auto. 50K out of the fronts with a manual.
If you happen to go in to a gvmnt scale, ALL they care about is that you are under the road bed limit, which is 20K per axel, with a min wt per inch width of tire of 500 lbs. So a typical private pickup has 10" wide tires, at 500 lbs, is 5000 per tire, or 10K per axel or 20K total for the truck GVW. Ask yourself this, are you ANYWHERE near this limit? thought so!
Reality is, from an LEO standpoint, they do not care what the warranty limit on your rig is. Because it is way under the road bed limit, they will not worry about you, even if over by 150-200%! I've been weighed at 150% of manufacture gvwr, I've yet to get an overweight ticket.
I go off and help a breast cancer fund raiser sailboat race yesterday, all he!! breaks lose!
Get over the bail outs folks! Those people are still at work, paying IT to the USA, building vehicles in the USA.......Does not matter the brand in the end. Even the banks that were too BIG to fail received bail out $$$ per say. How many of you are banking at those 50-70+% of banks that received money etc.?
How do you know the new truck is a 1 ton? does it have a gvwr over 10001 lbs to 14K lbs? if so, yes it is a DOT class 3/1 ton truck. If it is int he 6001-10000 lbs range, it is a dot class 2, or 3/4 ton truck. Pretty simple.
On the other hand, if one wants to use the sum of the axel components vs the manufacture derated number, the OP's new truck is a dot class3, his old truck a LD DOT class 2 in the 6001-8400lb gvw range.
There is two answers.
Ben mentioned first one. If the 1800 is brochure wt, then the 3rd seat will probably take away from the 1800 lbs of payload.
If the 1800 is door sticker payload, then as noted by APT, the 3rd seat is included in the tare wt. As such, if you remove the seat, you gain "100 lbs" for the seat, so a total of 1900 lbs of payload.
As some like to say, "there is no two ways about it", in this case, there is two ways to look at the op's question. ie it depends upon where the 1800 lbs of payload is from!
Safe is a matter of opinion. I could be unsafe with a single axle trailer at 2500 lbs with ALL the payload in the back of the trailer, with it fish tail swaying back and forth. This little trailer COULD put you in the ditch!
Meanwhile, the person that has thing balanced out, at 5times that weight is doing just fine! Weight IMHO is not all the end all be all of towing.
Some will say unsafe is going up a hill at 50 mph. Others are happy on a freeway grade of 30-40 mph. 30-40 would be unsafe to the person wanting to go at least 50 all the time!
With this in mind. The trailer gvwr you saw is the total of the axels gvwr. You then have your hitch wt % above this for a max you can load the trailer.
Most trailers if you look in a kitchen cabinet, have a as weighed at the factory with those options, LP, water full etc, then a remaining payload after this.
If you are full timing, a trailer with more payload will be a plus over one with less, and higher axel ratings.
Legal you get 500 lbs per inch width of tire to 20K lbs per axel, ASSUMING, you have enough paid for license registration.....so a 265 width tire is about 10.5" or 5250 per tire, for a total of 10,500 per axel......
Warranty and performance factors, ie engineers ratings or what ever is a whole nuther ball of wax.
The end is what the spec needs to be, how long something is to last etc. The tire OP has, is good to 3700 lbs at speeds up to around 70 mph. If he is to stay below 25mph, you would find the tire manufacture would rate the tire at about 4500-5000 lbs. Doing nothing else to the tire.
Reality is, in this case as noted, the engineer difference is the spring pack!
That last poster was probably trying to make a funny, in the wrong thread at the wrong time.....reality is, this funky has to be a 25/35 series, diesel etc etc God be to restrictive and would never pass federal or state legislatures. As it would also rule out class 8's that move one deck of a lot of stuff to an from places. His statement would never fly!
think I read somewhere that in 2017 1/2 ton trucks would have no towing capacity, so if You would like to tow You must buy a 2500-3500 and it must be a diesel. also new federal regulations removing tow hitches from any 1/2 ton less that 2 years old.
what do You think ?
You are a big early, or is that late for April Fools Day are you not?!?!???
My fist new truck had a 292 I6 with whopping 105 hp. A bb v8 at the time did not even have but 200 hp. A v6 pushing out 300 hp should be able to move MANY trailers that some say they could not. I move 5k trailers with the 292. Not fast, but fast enough. Folks today do not see motto wantthe motors to rev so they make the rrated hp. I have no issues having my vortec350 into the 4-5 k range so it can make the 200-255 hp it is rated at. Pulled a 12k trailer from a stop up a 2-3% grade to 45 mph @ 45 mph on 2nd gear. A people geared v6 with equality hp should be able t do the same.
Oh, that 292 was in an 8600 gvw2500 GMC. I can hear the howling on a barely 100 hp motor in a typical 3/4 to. Truck. Much less getting the same motor in 20k v60 series truck.
I did weigh it. It is an extended cab,short box 4x4 with 6.0 liter gas engine and it was just under 5,800 without me in it. Of course the truck was empty. The diesel trucks of that year were around 7,000.
My 2003 silverado 2500HD, LS trim with gas engine has 2,732 lbs of payload and 9,200 GVWR. That includes a 150 lb person in each seat and full tank of fuel.My truck weighs 5,800 and I weigh 220 so technically I have 3,330 lbs of payload. I have had over 3,000 pounds in it and I assure you I wouldn't be comfortable with that weight on a regular basis. 2,000- 2,500 lbs would be more realistic.
Go out and actually weigh it...guessing you'll be surprised that it
will weigh closer to +7K lbs than 5,800. Betcha a Costo Dog Lunch... :B
Then everything else that is based on that 'curb' weight will be reduced...
My 88 ext cab with a BB and std 8' bed was a shade under 6000 lbs. The 96 CC diesel was 6600 or there abouts.......some rigs weigh more, some a bit less, depends upon options.....then again, My 2000 reg cab C2500 with TWO chargable options, ie auto trans, factory hitch, or and trim rings, is 4800 lbs!