They have a'm line down to 15k or there abouts to compete with.the.450/550's. If I needed to replace my 4600 it would be on the short list. Although I would probably probably still end up.with an equal to what I have a lo-pro class 6.
Word I got on one of the Duramax Forums was that the new trucks would be in the Heavy Duty Class, with nothing in the Medium Duty (4500) class.
Could make me look towards Ford or Ram 450/4500 for my next TV.
Maybe correct as Isuzu is rebadging some of their lighter LCF trucks as Chevrolet MDT's will be a Chevrolet petrol engine as well. I think US GM has signed contracts with Navistar and Isuzu
This rebadging has been going on for a long time before the mdt side was shut down, along with recently in the last couple years with the 6.0 4l80e/6l90e trans option. From DOT class 3 to 4, maybe the 5s. Have not looked real close at specs in awhile. I would suspect the Navistar rigs will be a conventional cab vs the lcf that Isuzu does. I even remember when I could have bought a 350 in an Isuzu!
I can't believe ford has to use their f450 to use as towing comparisons to everyone else's 1 tons.
Are they still doing that for 2017?
I'm one that personally could care less about badgin numbers. BUT, isn't some of the F450 pickup models a lowered GVWR version, more on par with a 350 from a spring pack standpoint? if so, using the actual gvwr, or grawr/gfawr as comparisons would be more correct vs badging on the door frankly......anyboady remember when you could get a 9K gvwr dually? thought so......a LONG time ago! that is DOT class 2 - 3/4 - 25 series category! But labeled a 35!
Truck brakes stop the truck, trailer brakes stop the trailer. If this does not happen, then something in the braking system is amiss! If you get pulled over by and LEO/CVEO and get a brake check, the trailer brakes need to hold and stop both truck and trailer! Yes, been there done that!
This sounds like a sign on the side of the road I see changed out every so often.
If a group of clowns attacks you, Go for the Jugler!
or one today....
A parachute and your brain to work correctly, must be in the open position!
Tow behind's are a bad thing unless you have a lot of TRUCK!!! I know from experience. Been there and done the same exact thing. It's not fun.
This is false! I've pulled an 8K pintle hitch trailer with a 12K empty truck, trailer dang near took out truck. Trailer had ZERO hitch wt. I've seen a unbalanced for and aft trailer try to take out a tandem dually axle flatbed.
Having a balanced trailer no matter the hitch type is the correct way to tow. THEN, having a correct TV for the task at hand, both power, gearing etc.
Is this a 6 lug 2500, or the 8 lug 2500. 2600 lbs of payload seem pretty low. unless it is highly optioned for an 8 lug. I have 3800 with my same body style 8 lug 2500. If a 6 lug, you probably have or had stock a 6 ply LR C 245 tire on it. So going to a 10 ply 225 would not lose too much if any tire load payload. Another route to give you a skinnier tire, same OD is a 215-85-16. I used to run this stock size on the rear of a dually, and 245's on teh front, no issues with the 4wd system. As both were sized at 30.5". Even the psi and weight on a given axel can change the active diam which is more important than the rated diam.
2 Get new tires, then alignment....
3 Shocks? how good are the springs literally? If a lot of miles, loads etc, they may be worn out, a new set of springs could be a good thing.
Which gas truck has the highest ratings? Payload and towing ? GCWR?
I would consider gas if one was available that could handle serious weight.
If talking serious weight from a payload standpoint, assuming the same everything else on the truck but a diesel vs a gas truck. The gas truck almost ALWAYS has the better payload amount assuming equal gvwr vs gvwr.
Towing potential, that ends up being the rig with the better HP to rear wheels etc. That still may not be your end which is better.
Reality is, ANY of the current gas rigs will out tow older D or G versions. One has more gears to work with, better rom splits to keep a given rig in the best HP band. Most of the 25 or 35 series rigs have more payload than past year counterparts.......
Really as most have said, drive them all, choose what seats fit the females assets, hopefully the males too......if Momma aint happy, no one is from a seat comfort standpoint!
I've corrected some of the android phone auto-incorrections on the post above. My Walaby/Mike has better corrected what I was trying to get across re what a WD will do. You DO NOT want to remove ALL of the HW to the front axel or trailer so you have no HW. You can do this. You want to put back to the FA, what was taken off when loading the trailer on the ball mount. If your Jeep has 500 lbs removed from the front, you need to get this amount back to the front via a WD system. If you only remove say 50-60 lbs like 750 lbs might do on a dually, then a WD is probably not needed from a handling issue.
There is not a simple easy answer to this. Generally speaking, you are probably ok, UNLESS, you have a family of 6 as I do, with now 20 somethings, but 4 teens adult size in stature, that between the 6 of you, you are in the 1200-1300 lbs range, then do to the fact you have generally speaking, NO PAYLOAD for hitch weight, you have no trailer tow capacity. It does not sound like you have this issue.
A WD in a nutshell, transfers weight off the rear axle back onto the front axle and trailer axles that came off due to the settling of the rear. IE if you put 750 lbs of hw on rear it might gain say 1000 lbs vs empty. Half of the additional 250 lbs might be off of the fa and ta's. A WD will put this extra 250 lbs back to the fa and ta. Reality is, if you try to put too much of the hw to the front or trailer axles, you may over load one or the other. the how much is removed off the fa will depend on many items, IE wheel base, rear suspension capacity, and even the weight on the fa due to a gas vs diesel setup along with how far behind the RA the hitch ball is, shorter overhang is better. 750 lbs on a dually might remove.all of 60 lbs off the fa. Your jeep on the other hand might be 250-500 lbs.
Personally, I.would not worry to much about a 3500-4000 lb dry trailer coming in at 5000 lbs loaded. Rigs Tuesdays are way better than years ago. You probably have more hp than the first bb v8 I drove, which was just under 200 hp.
Cat scale, DOT scale wts on the side of the.road, are really only.good until you fill up with fuel the next time. Put a.load of groceries in the tree trailer or truck.......Yes CAT will to a degree stand behind the weight you were on that day, but a day later....you're on your own! I personally see no.reason to.pay $20 @ a CAT scale when are least locally, there are DOT scales every 50 or so miles along the interstates, you can weigh for free any way you.want if they are not manned by CVEO's doing a job.
They do not care what the manufacture rating is frankly. All they care about is that you are under 20k per axle, or the lessor of 500lb per inch width of tire. Along with.a.paid for give that is MORE than what you weigh at that moment in time.
Reality is, OP will be legal with ANY trailer from an Leo standpoint. Civil court is another.factor. Along with warranty potential not covering if the over weight facto.comes.into.play.
A vehicles GVWR is not generally limited by any one physical attribute since the individual GAWRs almost always exceed the stated vehicle GVWR to allow for loading variances. A vehicles GVWR is mainly set by the strict FMVSS safety braking performance certification and that's whyt the GVWR is always listed on that sticker on the driver's side door label. Thus according to the Federal government if you exceed the GVWR then you are no longer operating that vehicle in conformance with the federally mandated safety standards. It is extremely expensive to run and document a vehicle thru the federally mandated braking performance protocals and get it thru all the hoops to have it certified for a particular vehicle GVWR. Of course the other major factor that is GVWR is how the vehicle is classified and what other general FMVSS standards it has to meet or what classification that GVWR makes it. One area I'm not sure of is say you test and get for example an F-350 certified for a GVWR of 14,000 can you sticker it at say 9,500 (for state registrations/taxing purposes), w/o tested that same exact vehicle at that second 9,500 GVWR??? ... that I don't know and never asked the brake expert I got most of my other info on this from.
Of course then it really gets complicated when you hook a towed vehicle up since no that combo is surely over the GVWR of just the vehicle alone and while a lot of trailers have brakes what happens when you hook one of say these 2K trailers that don't require brakes up to a vehicle that is say already within 500lbs of it's door sticker GVWR???????. Now you have a vehicle with a certified braking system of say 10,000lbs that weighs 9500 by itself, but is trying to stop a total weight of 11,500 lbs clearly 1,500 lbs over the 10 certified braking performance????
You "MAY" be able to register the F350 at 9500 lbs, depending upon how that state does it licensing laws. BUT, that is the max you can go down the road at weight wise, before being considered overweight if weighed at say 9501+ lbs.
Some states like here in Washington, you take tare times 1.5 then to the next highest ton. OP's rig is will swag 5000 lbs empty. 5000 x 1.5 = 7500, next higher ton is 8000. That is the LEGAL weight he has to pay for, legal weight he would be legal to run down the road at etc etc. Washington state does NOT follow the manufacture warranty/performance ratings on the door tag. My two sons have half ton trucks, both are about 4800-5000 lbs empty, both have 8K registrations. My C2500 is also empty about 4800 lbs. I too have an 8K registration. If I get pulled over at the moor sticker gvwr of 8600, I would be considered 600 lbs overweight, and ticketed accordingly, OR, since I am under the 500 lbs per inch of tire max, I would probably get a 10 day "up the gvw to 10K" notice, then sent on my way.
Safe vs smart vs legal LEO vs legal Civil are five different variations on the same thing.
Safe can be unsafe below ALL the ratings if you are loaded in an unsafe manner. Say too much wt to one side or fore or aft on a trailer, tow rig etc. Or maybe too little HW on the trailer, so it sways.
Smart says, if trailer sways, put more wt or switch wt to front of trailer, so trailer does not sway, along with installing a sway control as an added safety measure.
Legal - leo, is what the LEO that pulls you over has to show is a true black and white in the field legal over weight! This is frankly, for a smaller rig like a 15 series, a max of 500 lbs per inch width of tire. For a typical pickup in todays world that is 5000-5500 lbs per tire on the truck, and around 4000 or so for the trailer tire. Are any of us near these numbers? not likely, so from an LEO standpoint, you are legal from the road bed engineer design max point load limit. OR Federal Bridge Laws! BUT, they can getchya on something else. Like a battery that is too low of voltage to stop you trailer if it runs away and the electric trailer brake is to stop it. Or you can not stop the WHOLE rig in less than 25' from 25mph or some field test they can do. Can the trailer brakes hold or stay locked while you start from a stop? If you fail any of these tests, you are dead in the water. Do you have the correct PAID for license GVW for the truck and trailer. If under, you are good to go, if also under the FBL amount. If OVER any of these two, you are over weight, can get fined, told to move items around so you are under weight, or told to go buy a LARGER paid for gvw for the rig! Been there done ALL the above!
Legal Civil, a lot of gray can occur! You generally speaking, need to stay under any and all manufacture warranty and performance ratings, or you can potentially get sued for negligence. Heck, you can get sued if UNDER these and lose depending upon the how or why or what ever.
Take your pick on what you want to do. I generally speaking follow the axel limits, gvwr for a truck that has axel limits 20-25% above the GVWR......some thing is wrong about this IMHO. BUT, I am NOT the engineer who certifies the rig, per federal standards. These standards are not followed by LEO's that pull you over. ALL they care about is paid for license, are you under from a weight standpoint!
Choose your poison!
A fellow I work with has one of the newer Dodge 1500 diesels. Seems to like it. Have to admit, my 05 dmax was nicer than my 96 GM 6.5, which is nicer than my 92 Navistar with an IDI 7.3........The MB sprinter I drive at work is real smooth and quiet too. Better than the dmax, then again, about 8 years newer too!
Im sure this will be a winner for its intended useage. Then again, I too would like to see something like this as an option in an 8lug 8600-10K SW 25 or 35 series rig. As like many of us, I do not need a 400+/1000 ft lb torque motor. Something with 250-300hp and 500 lbs of torque is ample for those of us for the most part moving just the truck at gvwr, hauling upwards of 2 tons of material in the bed, and trailers into the 10-12K range, be them bed or bumper style mounting systems!
The new tow specs will be a min speed of 40 mph on a 5% grade with IIRC 60 sq ft of frontal area for this sized rig. An additional 20 or so ft will add an additional 20-25HP needed to the flat ground HP to stay going 60mph. This rig will probably surprise on in how fast etc it will do, as the smaller rigs like this have had power figures upped just as those of us with larger twucks have had power figures upped. Any on still remember when 160-200hp was a BIG HP rating in our diesels? now it is 350-400. At the same time, the smaller rigs like a kia had 100-125hp, now many have 200-225HP and torque in the 200-300 ft lb range. Approaching BB power of the late 70s and early 80's. Yes it will slow down with a more typical loaded 4000lb trailer that is around 80-90# of frontal area. You will be down a gear or two due to the motor needed to rev to get is HP. Realistically, you should be better than you think.
Renting a trailer which depending upon where you are for a week, would be a smart move if you can rent one.
I bought a Discount brand tire last time. As they could NOT get me the AT and aHWY Cooper I wanted. Seem to be ok. But the Coopers would have been better for my useage. Lost track of finners and toes as to how many Coopers I haved owned, and miles for that matter. Much better than Michiblows!
OH, your mileage and preference may vary!
I see that the 6.0 hp/tq specs are alot higher for the pickups than they were for our '05 E350 cargo van with 6.0/5spd auto.
i also believe like the t444e, the 6.0 was rev limited, HP etc lower than the Ford version(s). If you look at ALL of the Ford versions of the IHC motor, ALL were reved some 200-400 rpm higher to get a few more HP out of them etc. I personally would not be surprised that this is why the 6.0/6.4 motors were issues in the pickups as much as they were. My opinion of course. With a B50 life on all in the 400K range from a block standpoint, better than the IDI7.3 which was a 100K mile throw away gas motor equal.