If a dually is barely enough truck, maybe you should look t a tandem rear truck.....if one can not have too much truck any how!
Ryder and Penske have MDT's. BUT, issue with many of these, they are speced HP wise from a enough power to move the truck at gvw only. Rarely do they have powerplants for true towing power. Chassis wise they are fine. But usually with a 250-300 hp motor, possibly in the 200-225 relm too vs wanting a 350-400hp motor for true towing at the gcw that the chassis is capable of running at.
An interesting test to me would be which one of the big 3 could do it repeatedly before a mechanical problem of some sort. Time doesn't mean shoot to me! Notice the tractor trailers they pass on every test video just chugging along doing their thing day in and day out. Not a single one of em has a Powerstroke or Duramax under the hood either I'll bet. Wonder what kind of engine most of em do have doing all that work every day logging millions of miles??? Hmmm???
Id also be willing to bet a lot of those OTR trucks do not have a Cummins in them either! Especially the 6.7 that is in a pickup!
The 6.7 has last I looked some 15 different HP/Torque versions, depending upon the application. Not saying it is a bad motor mind you. It does have more varied uses. Pretty sure it lowest HP setup around 160-180 hp would not be the fastest up the hill!
Yes, it would be interesting to see the other trucks times etc. As not only will HP make up a difference, but axel and trans ratio gearing as to which is able to ultimately put the MOST HP to the rear wheels.
At the end of the day, a 4.8L super/turbo charged motor would probably work for a lot of us in a HD DOT Class 2 rig, ie 8401-10,000 lbs gvwr. This would pull upwards of 10K at speeds many of us would be happy with. There is always those that if you can not go 80 mph on a 5% grade you do not have enough hp....but if one is going 45-50-55 in a 60 mph mtn pass region, we are happy!
Fit this with a 6-8 sp tranny, you have more than enough gearing to keep the motor in a decent rpm range. Decent fuel mileage when empty. For those in construction "JUST" moving the truck around with 1.5-2 tons of tools or equal in the bed. PLENTY of power. In fact many of the non inducted larger V6 motors have plenty of power with 250-275 hp and 300-350 lb ft of torque if geared properly between the trans and rear axel.
For those of you pulling 15-20K lbs. Engine will be too small, low in power. I'm quite happy with my vortec 350 that is 255/330 in hp torque specs. In fact, the 81 GMC I had with a 105HP 292 I6 for the most part, was ample for what that trucks purpose was.
Lets get off the high horse of one needs 350-400+ hp in a >8600 gvwr rig. Who cares of forced inducted vs non. BOTH styles of motors have a place in peoples lives that used this style truck.
I average about 40,000 miles on my tires. The set I have on now, Firestone Transforce HT, need to be replaced in the spring - almost exactly 40,000 miles old.
The Firestones have been fine. I kinda wish they'd last longer, but they've been good, and they are the least expensive name brand tire around me.
Oh, the HT are really a highway / road tire as opposed to all season, but they've been fine in the winter.
I had a set of HT's on a sprinter van at work, got close to 70K out of them. I would agree on the weather ability. NOT a great snow tire, but work depending upon the snow type you have. Slushy wet snow useless. Dry compacted they would be ok.
Longest tires on an 8 lug truck, were Toyo M55's. Got 80+K miles. If I got 50K I was doing good otherwise.
Micheblows were the worst, usually less than 30-40K before they literally threw a cord etc. This is using commercial use etc.
I personally find round tires are best.......Square ones doe not roll as good.
WIth that, I've found Cooper or Toyo are the best from an all around standpoint. Michiblows are one of the worst!
Your personal mileage may vary on brands, tread type etc.
IE, there is NO BEST tire! only wannabe's!
BUYER BEWARE ! Regular SNOW TIRES are NOT the best solution ! You want WINTER TIRES !!
While most of the brand recommendations in this thread are for winter tires, there are stores that will sell you snow tires. Winter tires use softer rubber so they stop and handle better on hard packed snow and ice. Winter tires will have this symbol on the side wall
This can be a good thing, or a bad thing. re the soft rubber. IF a person wants a traction tire year around. the soft rubber snowflake tire is not the best. As the soft rubber wears really fast in the hotter months.
IF one wants a winter ONLY tire. IE will put on in December, remove around March....then these types of specialty tires are very good to excellent options! depending upon the area you are in. I've seen some brands with two tread types. One that is better for midwest dry hard compact snow. Others for here in the west coast mountains, where wet slushy to compact is a better tread option. In Bridgestones case, I'll take a winter dueller over a blizzack due to the more open tread, but same rubber content. Much better option for the wet snow we have here in the western part of Washington into the cascade range.
At the end of the day, choose the poison that will work best for your type of useage.
I run traction or an aggressive AT tire on the rear, hwys on the fronts of ALL my RWD trucks year around. Ready for snow, slush, much, dirt etc at all times. If I still do not get out at least locally in Wa St and it is snowing, usually be then, chains are required on vehicles. Be it low lands or the mtn passes. Throw on the tire chains, no issues.
I've even done the traction on the rear of my dually 4x4, hwy on the front. not to mention tow different sized tires per say too. Same diam, 75 series on front, 85;s on rear!
It would be no different than when the dmax came out. They pulled supposidly a 16K trailer with props to fairs etc around the US. Turns out, the trailer alone was the gcw at the time, add in a 6500 lb reg cab dually, and it was close to 27-28K lbs total! That was in 01!
I know a heavy equipment operator that ran down the road at 40K gcw with a mid 00 4500! those were only rated to 26K gcwr. Going over manufactures gcwr is not uncommmon. ALong with being legal mind you!
In late 70's when I first started towing. max trailer was usually recomended as being no more than 2x GRAWR.
With OP's truck if it is a 3900 rating. 8Klbs of max trailer, or the tail wags the dog.
For some of todays 35 series trucks, with 8500-9000 lb rear axels, upwards of 18K lbs of trailer.
In ALL cases, one needs to keep the RA with in spec. BUT, if at the max. this happened with a lot of folks back when the dmax came out, they bought 2500's with 15K tow ratings, loaded up the 5W, and found themselves with PLENTY of power, but were bottoming out the truck, due to too much wt on the RA.
No matter the gvwr of the truck, look at payload first, then tow rating.
Some of you guys complaining about towing speeds on here must not tow much out west. There are lots of stretches of highway out here where it's wide open with big sight lines and you might pass another car going the other direction every 10 minutes if that. Whole difference scenario than going 70 mph on a busy freeway with traffic.
As far as I'm concerned 75 on an empty highway out west is a whole lot safer than 65 on a busy interstate with traffic back east.
Bingo! 65 out west would take you half a week to get to the next town.
Support big oil! Drop the hammer rubber ducky!
I'm farther west than both of you. Some places on I5 if you are going 25-30 mph! trying to go 65 would kill a lot of folks, cause a mega wreck etc. In fact, I can not legally go more than 60 mph 50-60 miles north and south of me in I5. or 18 miles or so east on I90 from the middle of seattle!
I'll stick to no more than 60 wherever I drive with a trailer....maybe 65 if open as in eastern washington.....legally I can only go 60 if towing a trailer or over 10K gvwr/gcwr!
Local pass report with chain requirements added to conditions. Not that one needs chains today.......
51ºF / 10ºC
3022 ft / 921 m
The roadway is bare and wet. Vehicles over 10,000 lbs. G.V.W. must carry chains over the mountain passes Nov. 1 to April 1.
I will also point out, the 10K gvw is total weight potential of vehicle, be it a single or multiple unit, ie a MH and towed car, truck and trailer are examples of a multiple unit. single rig like a MH.
I'll vote with the seat part of equation. THAT is the key to having back issues. Or not shall we say.
I've driven my navistar for 8+ hours with no issues. Drive my base level reg cab pickup with less gvwr than GFAWR of navistar, I need 6 tablets of ibuprofen at the end of the day, and a trip to chiropractor! Even my spouses ML320 is worst than Navistar. Altho the MB Sprinter at work, not sure how positive to say it is from a seat comfort level. Been in it 12 hours and 450 miles in a day, still feeling good at the end!
ALtho I do admit, some rigs suspension is worst than others from a bounce standpoint. BUT, seats are the key. They fit, or they do not fit ones butt!
Washington states laws use 10k lbs, be it gvw or gcw, greater than this, when traction.devices required, means you chain up as noted.
I used to chain up at least 1-3 times on ave per winter taking my tt to the local ski.area 12-16 weekends per winter. When I was chained, glad I.was. even with.a 4x and traction tires.
I don't know who the Washington Huskies are playing this week, but I feel sorry for them. Undefeated and ranked fifth in the College Football Playoff rankings???
Sorry Texas A&M, but undefeated is better than one loss and that was to....wait for it....Alabama. Pac 12 is a major conference, been around awhile, what give football 'gods'????????
Playing California (4-4) 10:30pm eastern on ESPN
Which is why many west coast teams do not get ranked, or so the rumour is. Most of the east coast voters are in bed by the time some west coast teams play, they've voted for east coast teams, go to bed. I personally would like to think it is not true.
The reason I've heard why UW is not ranked 4th or higher, is lower ranked played other teams vs the current top 4.
I'm sure both reasons have something to do with the #5 ranking.
In reality, preseason and during, do not mean anything, it is the one at the end of the season that is most important. Locally, not issues with rankings, attitude is, keep playing hard, winning, then if at the end of the year, say UW is only unbeaten team, not ranked #1.....then throw a stink.
Are we done with the boyz will be boyz comments!
Why can't some of you just admit, ALL brands of trucks, cars etc that we drive on the road are better than when some of us were teens in the 50's, 60's and 70's! Even 10 years ago models were lower in all things comparable to todays models!
MartyOf course all trucks are more powerful than those of yesteryear.... but even in the old days, some were faster than others.:B
Just because they are faster, does not make them the best! had a truck that was faster doing a 12K load up a freeway grade then another! But put said faster truck on a 15+% grade, it stalled out and would not go forward, Meanwhile the slower truck on a freeway grade, Went up the hill! Got to a job site, campground etc. The other blew up a transmission, spent 2 weeks in shop, cost $3000 to repair transmission that had all of 30K miles on it!
Fastest is not always best. BUT< the one that gets the job done with out stalling out before getting to where it needs to go under any and all conditions, is the BEST truck! Yeah, even if it is a bit slower in some parts of the course!
I'll take my Navistar with a 175/330 non turbo 7.3 diesel over my dmax when I'm above 20K lbs. The dmax will only go up a 24% grade at 20K. The navistar will do over 30% at 30K lbs. Yes a freeway grade the navistar is doing 35-40 mph, the dmax 55+. BUT, I can go up steeper grades which occur here in the NW.
At the end of the day, I want a truck, hammer, what ever the tool is, that gets the that job done, as I need it to do, even if slower at times. If the one that is faster, overheats, stalls out, needs fixing every 4 hrs vs lasting 6 hrs that the job will take. the slower one is better.