Next time you go down the highway, notice that 90% of contractors towing trailers loaded with HEAVY loads are not using WD. They do it 5 days a week for years with no significant problems.
Of course, you pays your money and takes your chance.
Along with a very high % of trucks that tow RV trailers to dealers do not use a WD/AS bars of any sort either.
I go on the, if I can not tow the trailer in a straight line with out sway etc with out the bars, I will not put the bars on to fix the issue. I figure out the issue(s) for the sway, fix them, THEN install the WD/AS bars! I've had bars fall off once, never knew they were off until I stopped some 100 miles later, including driving over Stevens Pass in the snow!
Do not quote me, but if one can find 285-75-16, you are in the 3800-3900 range vs 3750 for the 17" 70 series version.
Then again, a 285 may take a wider rim than a 265 width tire. so make sure you have the width. A local tire deal last wednesday when I got new tires for my C2500, tried to sell me 265-75-16's instead of the stock 245's....on 6.5" rims. WHile I know many of you have done this, my experience has been horrible vs 7.5" rims. So no, he was not putting 265's on my truck!
Oh, the lowest capacity LR E tire "I" know of, is a 215-75-16 at around 2500lbs.....a bit lower than the highest in the 3800 lbs range!
"IF" one really needs more tire load capacity, I would look at 225-70-19.5, also 31.5" in diam as is the stock 265-70-17 rubber, if you go to an LR H ie 16ply tire, you get iirc close to 4500 or so lbs per tire from the label on the rear of my mdt with 4 of these. I have 16-17K or so label capacity with the 4! This would be MY first choice.
In 35 yrs of daily towing, I have NEVER had a DOT inspection. I have been thru the scales, NEVER been over weight, even when at 150% of the gvwr/gcwr of a given rig. I have always been under the road bed limit of 500 lbs in inch of tire width, and the 20K per axel, unless limited by tire width. Only issue I had was a emergency brake wire was not hooked up one time correctly per an leo, fixed it, went on my way.
I have not had any issues that folks talk about on here. Including pulling trailers at the time upwards of 8-9K with a hitch rated to DW 5000/10K with WD back in late 80's to early 90s when it was rare to find hitches rated over 10K.
Then again, the first new truck I bought, did not have a gcwr per say, when I found one for later year trucks, the gcwr was 100 lbs LESS than its gvwr, unless you looked in the fine print!
Generally speaking, if things are with in reasonable limits, the truck should do it. BUT as noted, one needs to know how much weight is of the FA, as that has been my biggest issue with heavier trailer and pickup truck handling. MY MDT has never had this issue. As very little weight is taken off the FA with this trailer attached.
Used to do this daily with an equipment trailer, 1200 lbs of HW, and 10500 on the axels. Granted not an RV trailer, but wieghts are similar. I used to tow my TT which was in the 6-7000 lb total range, with 650-750 depending upon how loaded on the hitch with out bars too. I do admit, the rv trailer towed better with WD bars, better yet with a dual cam. BUT< the HW etc did not do too much to the 6400 lb RA on the two trucks I towed it with.
The ET on the other hand, does take more wt off the front, depending upon the WB, how much the front end weighs, overhang etc. So life can get interesting in some lower friction types of driving, like rain wetted roads, ice, the BIG slick WHITE cross walk painted area's etc. It is easier to slide with a lighter front end.
I am not accusing any of you my comment was aimed at. ONLY that the thread drift had/has gone a bit off topic. Yeah you are the Op.....but.....lets keep this on topic of the VW issue......which at the end of the day, could hurt them a lot! Not really what anyone needs IMHO. Much less to see them go out of business after this many years and decades.
Even if you puked ALL the coolant at 70 on the freeway, you will have time to get to the side of the road or a semi safe place on the side to park to wait for a tow with out burning up the engine.
My first thought was water from the AC condenser, but if this is on the firewall like my GM's and wifes MB, the puddle is in the wrong spot.
"Well, according to Ford, you can tow a fifth wheel to 16,300 pounds with a SRW. According to Redwood, their rigs are GVWR of 16,500"
Sure it can "TOW" that weight but can it "CARRY" 4,075# pin weight plus any other weight like hitch, cargo, humans???????
Open your eyes folks, the real question can it safely "CARRY" the load?????????
The TRUE answer. Towing/moving the load is one thing. Can it carry the load is the other. As noted, the axel is rated to close to 10K, But would swag you will see ratings as low as 6100 to as high as 8K lbs, depending upon the "tire sidewall capacity" which is usually the lowest spec, then rims, then springs, highest is the axel. So in a sense, the person was correct in that the axels have been derated 20% by lower rated tires, rims and springs.
Article in one of the email news groups I got this morning. For those of us on the deaf side, video's do not work to well. But an over 8500 gvwr rig, with a SB Diesel motor vs the bigger HP/Torque motors......good option for many of us either commuting long miles, towing smaller trailers etc. Then if they develop a higher hp motor to compete with the domestic brands......
You guys stayed on topic nicely........lol
I think the new Chevys are a great idea for a home owner - a small pickup makes much more sense than a mini van or station wagon - depending on the family size. The diesel option is great, more torque
and great mileage - what's not to like?
But for pulling an RV I would not give up my full size.
Depends upon the RV size, shape etc too. This new rig may do fine with some of the smaller ones, that are more aerodynamic. ALong with, not too long ago, the HP/Torque specs of this little motor were on par with some of the first diesels in 25/35 series trucks. Or in the case of the GM6.2, more power! Probably the same with the IDI6.9........More HP than the first B5.9, granted not quite as much torque......
I can see this being a good rig for a lot of us frankly, depending upon how it is used etc.......
You have a 7500 lb grawr for the rear.
About 4200-4500 for the front.
Total gvwr per GM 10,000 or 10,500 if it has a C7 HD payload pkg.
GCWR for a 454 rig and 4.10's is 16000 lbs. Frankly, from having an 89.....could not go up ANY hill over about 15% in grade fully loaded. TH400 tranny is a tall first gear trans, same as the later 4L80E, at 2.49-1, with TC around 4-1 overall low. Pretty tall 1st gear for a truck. I went thru the trannies every 30K like clockwork!
If you can find a muncie 4spe with 3.42 gears, you would be WAY better off frankly. That is equal low and tall gearing to a later model with an NV4500 and 4.10 gears. 3.73's would be ok too. Really do not need or want 4.10's with a direct drive tranny.
I have a truck with a gvwr of 10k, I want something with at least 11500 to cover what I am towing just in case the laws change and they do start pulling rv's over.
You need to REALLY look at your laws. Here in Wa St as I mentioned earlier, I buy tags in 2K increments, I get to run down the road at the PAID for GVWR. So if you buy a doortag 11500 truck, you buy a 12K plate, you are legal to 12K. Or do as many I know not posting here, plus at least two that ARE posting here, buy a 14K plate, legal to 14K! One other including myself, had SW rigs with door stickers in the 9,xxx range, had 12K plates, again, legal to 12K.
Look at laws carefully!
My 05 "DUALLY 3500 GM truck" did not come with a hitch from the factory. Not every one needs a receiver hitch. IE some of you that ONLY tow 5w's, A contractor that is only hauling 2-3 tons of material around. Or maybe someone with bed camper not towing a boat behind. The latter is hard to believe, as most will go this route and tow a boat, snow mobiles, horses etc, hence a bed camper.....
Depending upon the trailer you want etc. I would still try to find the highest rated dead weight and WD hitch ratings. Someone had a "Tow Max" or some such thing that went on my truck. I was good to around 14K/1500 dead weight, and about 2000/500 more lbs for a WD system. It was a 2.5" setup. I believe there is a Curt hitch that is rated about this amount but is a 2". The 2.5 is the better option for trailers over 10-12K IMHO! Also get the one with the biggest pin you can too!
Manufacturs GCWR have NO basis in what you can tow etc. You are legal to the axel wt limits. Generally speaking, assuming you have a paid for plate that includes a max tare amount, you will get to 20K per axel, 34K per tandem, and no less than 500 lbs per inch width of tire. THat is how states are supposed to max weight vehicles per the engineer road bed limit of roads, bridges etc.
As noted, if you go over engineers limits, you will have lower handling, performance etc.
BUT, pulling a trailer OVER manufactures limits is legal. Happens all the time, with very few issues. BUT, you warranty from the manufacture may be null and void if you are really over the limits and it can be shown that this caused the part to break. You are not on the hook to pay for repairs.
Simple answer, reasonably simple answer, but not.
The eaton locker is generally speaking, the most positive rated Locker/LS style in the off road rags. Detroit, while almost always locked, does have issues in slippery conditions. LS's sometimes due to clutches will not always lock as well as one would like. The Eaton seems to be the BEST general road mannered, and positive locking per say.
BUT, with this in mind, I try to buy ALL my rigs with some kind of LS/Locker from the factory. It is better than none at all. If you buy a GM, it has an Eaton locker in the 8 lug models.
I've towed in ALL conditions with an Eaton and 4wd. Works very well. Even one day I want up a local mtn pass in rwd when Chains were required with out any slippage. Did not do 4wd until the parking lot. This rig in rwd did about as well most places as previous truck with an open rear in 4wd. In 4wd with the locker, even better yet.
I am really pleased with both my F350s. I have no vested interest in any of the big three automakers.
Therefore, I couldn't care less about those numbers.
I'm with you - I find automotive brand loyalty baffling. No one brand is ever going to have the best model on the market in a particular class on an ongoing basis. Depending on model cycles brands are going to pull ahead and fall behind as advancements are made. Why anybody would buy one brand for loyalty reasons and snub a better vehicle is beyond me.
The term "better vehicle" is subjective, especially with the current pickup offerings. I run GM trucks, always have. My business identity is a part of that along with the type of heavy equipment I tend to buy. I don't bounce around from OEM to OEM. I establish a relationship with the dealer or dealers and stay there unless I have a compelling reason to change (poor performance or service from the OEM or dealer). I appreciate loyalty from my customers and I return the favor when I am in the customer role.
I have to agree with ksss, I always bought Chevy's, as the dealer was fair to me. The other dealers were a pita! Be them other chev, or ford or equal. Hence why I stuck with Chev's from one dealer. Probably why I bought my IHC from the dealer I did too.
Yeah, some were down maybe 10-20hp vs the newest motor from the other brand, I still got to where I needed to go. The dealer fixed QUICKLY when it broke be it warranty or just use, or abuse from an employee. When one runs a business, this is frankly more important than WHO is best on the day you buy the vehicle.
For ALL of us in general, better to be looking at the general increase in sales numbers for ALL the brands. Why Honda is still on the list is beyond me, as noted, that model is not even sold, or it is OLD stock finally getting sold off. This is the same as, Are you a D or R politically, I prefer neither, American frankly! If all manufactures BUILDING product in NA are improving in total sale numbers, things are good!
On a positive note, although I downgraded vehicles, I upgraded companions. My new gal is beautiful, kind and makes me happier than any vehicle could. So - no stress! :)
My first thought was: "He got a golden retriever!"
Good luck! and keep camping.
I was thinking the same thing...though I was thinking lab over retriever!
Add King Charles Cavalier to the mess!
I prefer to look at numbers this way, IS the TOTAL vehicle sold more than last year? if so great! If not, then we are in another potential depression/recession. The total sold between brands is ALWAYS moving about, depending upon who has what discounts, wants to get rid of inventory, who's is newest design, motor out etc.
Yeah I have been driving GM's for 35+ years, no frods or dogdes, If ALL three manufactures are down in sales, that has been a bad sign! one or the other up or down some, overall total is up, that is a GOOD sign!
Being as the OP is in Ca, I believe his chain up requirements are a lot like here in Wa, OR and ID as to three states I have looked up the requirements on. If he or anyone gets caught in a mtn/snow area with out chains, be prepared to lighted your wallet with a ticket.
I like chains on both front wheels of a dual axel trailer personally. That is me.
I also prefer the CHAIN chains vs cables when towing too. UNLESS I need chains on the FA and RA, the cables go on the front tires. Having them along also gives me the extra chain(s) that are required by law too.
I personally did not change setting on brake controller(s) used over 15 yrs towing a trailer in the snow to ski resorts, nor did I change the bar links etc.