Th IDI7.3 had 3 power options, assuming that version, 135, 155, 175. The T444E had 4 or 5 versions, that went from 160'sh up to 225/625. The DT466, also had a version or two in the upper 160-200 range, along with some that were close to 300hp with over 1000 ft lbs of torque. These all depending upon the what the truck was originally designed to do. Be a city hauler box/van or flatbed, to an open highway hauler. The city rig had lower HP versions, the hwy rig had taller gears and more HP. GCW was based on the HP, ie less, you had no towing ability, to higher, where you would have towing ability. Even then, it depended upon the hwy vs city driving application of the truck.
Even pickups back in the day had motors for those that just drove the pickup around, ie the 292/300 I6's with 100-125HP in 25 and 35 series trucks. Or one could get BB V8's with maybe 200-225hp for towing or better performance.
I've gone down the road upwards of 40K gcw with my 175 IDI 7.3. It is not too bad up to around 35-40 mph, but above that, it does not have the hp to move the load comfortably. Up to 25K is ok to around 55. 60 needs to be below 20K total.
My 92 IHC 4600 has a whopping 175/335 non turbo 7.3 diesel.....it will climb a steeper grade in its first gear which is 10.08-1, add in the 4.33 gear sets and 32" tires........30K up a 30% grade. My old dmax was only good to 25% with 20k lbs! But on a freeway grade a 25K lbs, the dmax would be twice the speed of the navistar!
With funds you have, you are in tough shape to get a true power hauler. You can get a hauler, but it will not be fast. That 460 you speak of, had maybe 230-250HP with a bit less than 400 lb ft of torque! yeah a barn burner when it was sold. But compared to todays rigs, there are some V6's with more HP and torque than that thing. It does a tleast have a 5 sp manual vs the 3 or 4 sp auto. So that is a plus......
"IF" you go with one of the 7500-8500 gvwr high payload 15's with a reg cab, no issues. If you go with a 25 series, fully loaded leather etc, diesel.....you may not have the payload for a 10K 5w either! A gas CC with a 2500 fully loaded 25 series, no problems. Reg cab or ext cab diesel 25, moderatly to fully loaded for the reg cab, no issues.
As noted, 2000 -2500 lbs of potential hitch wt, a couple of people at 500-700 lbs including hitch etc......Your needing 2500-3500 lbs of payload. Tow capacity be danged. That has NEVER been my issue towing, even if over the gcwr of the truck. As LONG as I am UNDER the gvwr of the truck, I have towed without white nuckles, even if over gcwr assuming the truck with a higher powered motor has the gcwr to tow the trailer. Yes I am slow....but I still get there!
LIke ALL things great and small......where is the dry weight of the trailer from? Brochure? if so, do you have AC, awning, one or two batteries, etc. As that dry weight is probably plus 500-750 lbs with options......NO ONE, travels with Zero gals of water. You will have 10 or so just between the hot water tank, lines, and something in the water tank......MOST of us unless were are not using the black or gray tank for months, will put 1-2 gals of water and the deodorizer in the same stop as we dump at......
500 lbs in trailer of stuff......hmmmmmm.....there is a moderator on here that weighed EVERYTHING going into his new trailer. Figured it would be 600-800 lbs. He was closer to 1300 lbs! That is for two people!
Reality is this. That trailer will probably tow just fine behind that truck. Will not be over the gvwr of the truck, nor axel limits. If you travel to the 10000' range in the rockies, it WILL be slower than at sea level, but with 300+ ponies, if willing to let the motor rev into the mid 4000-5000 rpm range, a 6 sp trans, you will be moving forward. Not at 60 mph mind you on a typical 3-5% freeway grade, but probably in the 40's in the gear below direct ie 3rd.
Unless something else says do not buy it. You will be safe towing that trailer with it!
"SOME" of what is wrong may very well be lack of maintenance. Even a new or used rig will need the same at some point in time. Like tires....some call it a repair, reality, a maintenance item. O2 sensors go out every 5-10 yrs. Have one out on my 2000. On this one, a simple reasonably quick cheep fix. $1k-2k and you may be good for another 75K miles!
I suppose we.could talk about.the.brakes.on my rig......
Bleeding is not getting air out.......grrrrr
We need more information such as the color of the truck , tire size, 2 or 3 speed trannie gas or diesel or propane. Then we can gice you some great ideas.
Basic white CHEBBY reg cab, 3 chargable options.......
I KNOW IKNOW!!!!!! trade in on a frod!
Back to your regularly scheduled lets fix OP's 6.4 deezal!
Ok folks, I posted a lengthy communication between the mechanic and Ford on this problem. Couldn't get it to post here. Too many characters??? It's on the super duty forum. I hope it helps and is informative.
Try.going in to this site thru trailer life, motorboat, good Sam's. As sometime t.v..net goes haywire, those sites will allows a post to.go.thru.
Looks like I.Have some deletions to make when I get to a computer vs phone.....
What is broken ont he truck? or needing repairs?
Reality, a newer CC pickup with the 6.0/6sp auto or if you can get the 6sp in the express, wither of those would pull your trailer where you want to go with family in tow.
One needs to remember, torque is not always what your want. HP is also needed. At the end of the day, even back 20 years ago, one geared a rig so you had the HP needed in high gear to move a rig. That is why in navistar runs at 2500 at 60 mph, as that is where it produces the hp to move 26K lb, around 150hp. Then again, my motor produces a peak 175/335 hp/torque. A 3.73 gear set would be nicer, but i could not run at 55-60 in high gear, which for me is direct.
Gearing in trans can make up a lot for what is in the pumkins.
I'm also not one for running lower rpms in dod, it take hp to turn a OD and DOD trans. Two setups turning 1800 rpm, the one with 4.56 gears running in dod will be potentially using more fuel than a rig in direct with say 3.08 gears. BUT, to get the load going, the 4.56 setup may need a 6-1 first gear, the 3.08 a 10-1 first gear. At the end of the day, it is being in the correct final ratio for how you tow, pull etc, than it is what gear ratio is in the pumkin. You need what is in both the pumkin and trans to know what will be correct for YOU!
i would take the lowest set. Then again, i only drive up to 55-60 mph for the ost part, as it is not legal to drive 70 mph locally, so the lower gears give me a better rpm at 60 than the taller ones in DOD!
If one goes with a reg cab 15 series truck, you may be ok. If you go with a crew cab, you might even have issues with a heavily loaded 25 series truck.
This is not a simple 15 or 25 or 35 series truck truck question. Some families like myself would be into a DW35 crew cab if I were to buy this trailer. 2000 lbs of hw, 1200 lbs of family wt, plus some other asst stuff in truck, and I would need some 4000+ lbs of payload. A 15 will not have it.
You need to not only look at how many leafs, but how thick the leafs are. The 4 pack may be able to handle more weight than a 5 pack, as they are thicker. meanwhile, the 5 pack, if thinner, may carry something similar or less, but have a softer ride.
I'll go with Toyo or Cooper generally speaking. No blow outs with those brands of tires. Now Micheblows on the other hand.......too expensive for what you get! IMHO.
Then again, Tires are like truck brands.....everyone had an opinion.....kinda like rear ends, all stink at some point in time......LOLOL
You are down grading your ride with those TV options. Frankly, there is NOT an equal to your burb on the market at the moment. might be a better option to plunk a couple more $$ into the current ride vs a newer ride.
If you go to a crew cab pickup or van......now you have real options on par with what you have in the 25 series models, be it Dodge, Ford or GM........
That is NOT very detuned. Most rigs in the past of that size started out with 200-225hp motors with torque in the 600-800 range. So from an HP standpoint, as noted, best in class.
That 500K mile range is on par with the T444E, B5.9/6.7, The Navistar V8 motors doing the same work etc. in class 6 and 7 rigs doing local delivery type work, school bus's etc. Reality, not a lot to brag about IMHO.
For those interested, some of the commercial truck rags will show the class 3 thru6 or 7-8 trucks sales by manufacture. I personally have not seen a break out of class 3 dw vs sw. Other than for most years in the past, a sw 25 series being as the gvwr was below 10000 lbs, it was really a DOT hd class 2 truck, or what I call a HD 3/4 ton!
With many of the sw35's being over 10K in gvwr, they do truly fall into the DOT class 3 trucks or 1 tons. Again, not sure you will get or find a break out somewhere.
Is it me or is it getting warm in here? I just took my sweatshirt off.
It has hit 60F here in the puget sound basin a few times this week. Sunny too.....ooops, oh, it rains here all the time.....sorry about confusion! Would not want people to know it only rains 36" a year here in Seattle, when east of mississippi it does that plus 12" from May1 to Oct 1!
Well any way, have some of us disrupted the poor OPs which twuck is the better twuck question yet? I find blue is better, or red. red is fastest, as it is the lightest color, hence why red gets pulled over more for speeding. White is heaviest.......we all know you need that extra 1/4lb of payload........
3, 2, 1,
how quick should I lock this? How long till this goes to heck in a handbasket?
OP has been listed as a member for a year, and wants to know which is bes........
oh me aching head!
The one that fits you rear end best......or better yet, the one you wife will be seen in!