I was thinking this one has possibilities. Sell the bucket part and redo the interior, could be cool.
Along with it is the IDI7.3, not the t444e 7.3. IE no stock factory turbo!
Original truck linked is an auto, not a manual as stated by one person.
At the end of the day tho, someone can take ALL of these and tweak the motors so they have the power to work.
My 92 ihc with a 188'wb, can out turn a typical ext cab pickup with a 3' smaller WB! Maneuverability is not an issue!
IMHO, not to say this is a right or wrong setup.....but,,,,,
Not being able to see out the back....well, that is not an issue where I am, as long as noted, he has mirrors to see down the sides. And in some cases, a mirror or back up camera to see about 5-6' behind the rear bumper, if a van body that is less than 18' or there abouts.
He is not over 500 lbs per inch width of tires.....so legal from that perspective ie road bed design limit! THAT is the legal limit that LEO's enforce, NOT the manufacture warranty limits as Ben is referring to. Question would be, has said person PAID the taxman! for the load he has on the road! If not, he is screwed......no jail time tho! as some of you would like to see.
As long as lights are visable per legal limits, he is fine.....
So much for my 02, Not to say this is a smart setup to drive down the road......but as noted, probably legal!
The 6 miles up to Timberline from Government camp, is 10% or there abouts. I could do that in the 35-40 range with a 5 sp manual and a bone stock 96 6.5GM in 3rd gear, ie gear below direct. No complaining from me. I could do all the 6-10% grades in Yellowstone, 3000' higher, also in the 35-40 range. Issue I had with the truck, as Turtle points out, is the wide spread gears. If I had had 3.73 gears, or the NV5600, I probably would have been split between the max low speed of 48-50 in direct, and an easy cruise up the hill at 2600 or so rpm which was around 35-40 for me. I could go faster, but why redline it when I did not need or have to! My total was usually in the 14-25K range. My emanual rating was 12500. I pulled every bit as fast or faster at times as the auto version at the real gcwr of 14500.
Reality is, I would not be surprised if this combo in the 12-14K range total gcw is able to meet the 40-45 mi mph on a 5% grade!
Not sure what would fit my needs. But something like this....
trailer gvw max is 20K lbs / 2 = 10K minimum RA size. Not sure if any true 35 series rigs have a 10K grawr. Puts me in a class 4 rig.
Enough HP to moter up a 5-6% freeway grade in the 40 mph range minimum
Enough torque, gearing in trans, axels with a tire diam factor to go up a min 30% grade in RWD, and prefer up to 40%! 60-70% in 4wd if I went that route.
Payload for the hw, passengers, other asstd goodies. Probably around 6K minimum.....again, not sure a 35 has this unless it is a reg cab dually.....
Tow ratings?!?!?! what the heck are those......the SAE specs only have a minimum 12% grade, barely enough payload for a driver and max HW one might use in the truck.....so will NOT follow those goofball POJS recommendations......
Just my 02, not that they are worth anything more than maybe a half of a penny candy!
"Only place the 68RFE is better is in reverse" That I did not know. The SAE tests require backing load up a steep grade. They must figure the Aisin is stronger and can handle the stress.
All it has to do is go up the 12% minimum grade. Does not say how fast, easy etc. Just has to go up. 12% is a pretty minimum grade when I've seen roads in downtown seattle into the low 20% range. Short hops on forest service campgrounds into this range. Job/construction sites into the 30's......one stalls out on these, will not matter what major brand whatamacallit you have. if it is not setup to do this work, but only the J2087 specs, you're stalled out, screwed, buying a new tranny!
Beautiful truck once again. And nice pic of you and your daughter beside it! :B
Dear wife says thanks, she in a 1941 model and I am a 1944 model. Chris
so she is a "cougar" arn't them a Dorf models?!?!?!?
Sway should not be an issue going 10 to 25 mph with chains on.
The question is not sway but what effect a brake at the swivel point would have on handling. With it tight it seems like the trailer would be considerably less responsive to steering adjustments, especially on a slick surface.
Do you have issues on a rain slicked surface? probably not. If not, you will not have issues on snow or ice generally speaking. A friend used to lighten up the friction sway control on his 32' trailer behind an F250 Crew cab towing to the mtns. Somewhere he tried it without relasing/loosening up.....Keeps the same now year around. I used to use just a WD, no issues, lost a bar on the way to E Washington to ski in Wenatchee, went to a dual cam. No real issues with either fully locked up.
now where I have had issues on slick surfaces, is when with my GM 8 lug trucks, is when the FA loses or has more than around 250-300 lbs off the fa from empty wt. IE if empty there is 4500 lbs, if I get down to 4200 with that on the RA along with a load, then I lose steering control until I use a WD on a trailer, or shift a load forward in the bed such that more wt is on the FA.
The worst slick surface is a heavy white painted stripe from a crosswalk, or equal. These when wet one can slip the front wheels on really easy, lose control, slide when you do not want to forward.....Ice and snow are not always the worst situation from a slickness standpoint. Even metal grating on a bridge can be bad or worst than snow and ice in the winter.
I've pulled trailers upwards of 12K with ball and pintle hitches in snow, rain, dry etc. for over 30 yrs. TT and equipment trailers with bobcats, mowers etc in and on the trailers.
Go slow, take your time, think ahead of time what to do if something goes haywire.....then do the best you can.
Reminds me of first rig I drove.....sorta......
62 IHC travel all, 3 in tree emanual tranny, manual steering, brakes......am radio, 125hp 240 I6.....I rebuilt the motor in HS. That is parents rig.
I bought a 66 travel all, some POS 3 sp auto, I think same as this one has. Needed rebuilding at 100K miles.....
Then went to a toyota 4 bange, 5 sp manual.....
Wonder what that 62 is up to. It was sold, still on road at one time.....
do I delete 15 posts, or close the whole shabang? or delete the whole shebang.........
Some of you must not have jobs......or anything better to do than bash ea other...........say this twuck is better or worst......argue over some minor detail that in reality means squat!
You will have to readjust the settings on the dual cam you have to work with the E350. I had to redo my system when I went from an 88K3500 ext cab, to the 96 K3500 crew cab due to the 96 sitting a bit taller, and slightly stiffer springs and WB as to how it effected the FA etc.
A tire dealer may have chains available depending upon where you are. You may literally have to drive someplace where chains are legal. IIRC Wisconsin and a few other midwest states metal traction devices, be them chains or studs are illegal. You may not be able to buy them any where! If in the NW and some other western states Les Schwab is probably one of the best or better places to go to. They will setup, show you how to install etc.
I'm not going to say towing in snow is fun, horrible etc. I used to use my TT as a ski hut. THere were many times over 100 rvs of ALL types, sizes and shapes at the local ski area's I went to. We all arrived and left in good shape, got home, and came back the following week from December to early April. Traction tires for the rear of the truck are good. as are AT or equal on the front of the truck, and something somewhat aggressive for the trailer are good too. A 5 rib hwy tire is not as good as something with major grooves on the side. This lets slush etc get squished out as you drive.
There are some vent covers, forget the name. Invest in these for the vents. You can keep the vents open when it is raining and snowing.
keep your water tank full, hopefully it is heated or somewhere with in the heated part of the trailer as mine was. You may get froze out of some area's if you have manual drains. The water will freeze upwards, stopping water from flowing to parts of the unit. Find and remove this drains, then water will flow throw out. If the black tank is fluid, somewhat full, and you have a chance to drain it, do so! 48 hrs of sub freezing temps will net you a chocolate fudgecicle in that tank. possibly to never drain until you have 48-72 hrs of above freezing temps. Unless you have a heated tank.....
As noted, many have said chain up rules. Look up the states that you will travel thru to figure out snow/winter weather rules. In Washington, if you are towing or over 10K lbs total gvw, you need chains for truck and trailer if applicable from Nov1 to April 1. Sometimes the later date will get extended depending upon the weather in early april in mtn passes.
As noted, go per weather forecasts etc. Winter has a different look and feel than summer sunny weather no matter where you are. Hence different beauty to the region(s) you will travel in. You may not also get to places in winter, that you can not in the winter. many parts of Yellowstone, North cascade hwy 20 in northern washington state......
As much as I generally speaking like diesels, I would get the V10. 13-15 empty is not uncommon. I have a friend with a 4 sp auto, and he gets 13-15 with it, loaded to 10K with construction tools etc.
The V10 is a bullet proof motor. The 6.0 main block is a good motor. but Ford did some other external stuff that really screwed the pooch with that motor. If you get a good one, you're lucky. Otherwise, it is like the old GM 350 diesel, or 6.5td, where they can be pricey to fix when things happen. At least with the GM models, fixing is cheap vs the 6.0!
State the rig is licensed in.
Some states like Washington where I am. IF you pay the tax in SC, then when you register here, if the tax is lower there than here, in this case, more than likely, as it is 9.x% here......you pay the difference from that state to here. OR if by some chance the tax is higher, you get a refund.
Will not say how it will work in your case. but that is how it works here any how!
A super charger would be best option imho!
But with this in mind. probably something in the 4/33 or 4/56 range. And even then, what you have will work. You will be in a lower gear than the ratio's mentioned. You will get the job done. Most of us that have pulled at 8k+ feet with gas rigs, have had to rev the motors more than we do in my case, sea level to get the power to do what needs doing. As you lose 2-3% of HP per 1000' above sea level that you are. So at 8k', you are down some 16-24%! Hence why a super charger might also be the what you want. It compensates for the most part for the lower air density.
For a single trip.....reality, just go with what you have! Save the money spent on these items you in reality will probably not need.
At least once or twice a year, I see articles about a vehicle being stolen some 30-40 years ago, being bought by someone, go to get a title in different state, find out said vehicle is stolen. Vehicle gets returned to original owner! Even if across the continent!
Not surrogate a lawyer can help frankly.
Good luck to op none the less.
No where does the article state that the Ranger will be built in Michigan, nor does it state it will be the 2018 model year............
Murderator is smelling a troll thank you very much!
I think it was on the news some time ago as to the location, that being in wayne Michigan at the old ford truck plant.
A link was given to the quote part in a later post. BUT, as I noted, the quote part was a different article! Not in the original link! And given later when OP was called out......
If one is going to put a quote into a post, at least make it such that we can find the quote if also linking an article! Pretty simple no matter the subject matter IMHO!
Even still, there are probably a lot of us that would like to see an older sized Ranger be back in the market.....Especially one that gets upper 20 to low 30 mpg that a 76 toyota and 86 S-10 that I had got. Yeah they did not tow much more than 2000 lbs......Not sure I bought or had either of them to tow in reality. More a can I carry 1000 lbs of stuff in the bed, move two people with the toyota. The S-10 was could I get my twin sons car seats in the cab, myself and still shift the floor mounted gear shift......Reverse seated no less when less than 24 months old!
I would like one today frankly! 22-24mpg in a toyota tacoma with a 4 banger is imho horrible for a truck of that size. Should be at least 25hwy 30 freeway. They also weigh a heck of a lot more than my old rigs wiegh. Both were less than 3000 lbs, reality closer to 2500 lbs!
JMHO not that it counts for anything in the scheme of things.....
I should believe American press because why?!?!?!
Not sure any of the stations have told the real truth in a couple of decades or more.
Then there was the, GM was going to have a V8 cat motor in 2001+ model year pickups....we all know what motor is in GM pickups do we not?
I'll see it when I believe it!
Your BEST mpgs per a fellow that pulls RV trailers for a living. Will be the airstream and mid sized 5w withOUT a front bedroom slide. The Glendale Titanium 5W is another that gets better than ave mpgs. Travel trailers with aluminum sides are generally speaking the worst. He always gets better mpgs with the 200-500 lb heavier same models with the smooth fiberglass sidewall vs an aluminum sided one.
Issue some of us have like myself with 5W's, I use my truck as a contractor, pulling multiple trailers that are bumper pulls if you will. I have to also take off a lumber/ladder/pipe rack off the truck to install a 5W hitch, ea time I want to pull a 5W trailer. Not happening!
I also get way more use of the bed, along with I can haul easier a canoe, kayaks, small topable boat if need be too. Or some haul golf carts, off road bikes/quads etc in the bed with out having to go to a rear garage style trailer...
At the end, there is in reality, no true right or wrong RV trailer. Only the one that YOU, most important, SPOUSE likes, if spouse does not like it, your screwed no matter all the other positives.......
Get the one that works for you! I was very happy pulling my TT with souse and 4 kids in a mid 20' TT thru snow and ice, sleet, sun etc over 12 years and 120K miles, not to mention most useage was December to April as a ski hut. Yep, hauled to local area dang near EVERY weekend! Don't let a bit of that winter white stuff scare ye too much either!
Where is BertP when we need him on this! So why is the US Army using 2000HP 200 torque rated motors instead of the 2000 hp 4000 torque rated motors in tanks?
While torque is important, having a mean of which to multiply the torque in a manner that gets the most torque to the ground is best. Along with which system gets the most HP to the ground is faster.
In the tanks case, going from a typical tranny gears etc system, to a fully hydraulic powered system, got more hp/torque etc to the ground, so the units ran better, faster, fewer break downs etc. And it was a turbine motor going 20K rpm vs max 2000 for the 2000/4000 diesel motor.
To say which motor with a given rating is better, best bestest! is correct, but can also be incorrect!