I can definitely relate to being put off by the paddle. Young Diva is very sensitive, she is intimidated by even a crook and will wander away from the stock and sniff when it comes out. Pretty much all I can use with her is a little 3-foot sorting stick. Luckily she doesn't generally come in to close or hot, so I don't normally have to put much pressure on her. We have recently started working with call ducks, though, where she really does want to pounce in and make herself some duck soup sometimes :o
Buddy, OTOH, is sometimes completely oblivious to the paddle, flag, crook-with-a-shaker-bottle, thrown crook, etc. He's a very strong-willed little dog. I guess you have to be if you are 26 lbs and you were bred to move 400lb cattle.
Very good! Certainly the makings of a good working dog.
Funny, just as I was starting to wonder why you weren't using a rattle-paddle, you picked one up!
It's nice that you can leave the long-line dragging and the dog can still work. That doesn't work on corgis ;)
Congratulations! Sounds like you dominated the event!
Not much herding going on here...triple digit temps have made it almost impossible to get out and work. I did do an AHBA trial recently, running Buddy on goats, which was great fun. A friend was hosting it at her property and I went to support the event and also to help out. I ended up setting stock. Of course, since Buddy was entered, I couldn't use him, so I had to do it with an un-entered Aussie. It was quite an experience, working with a relatively green dog (whose owner was brand-new to herding - which is why I was acting as handler) for the first time, and needing to keep the stock calm and settled. It was odd that a dog nearly twice Buddy's size didn't have half his power on the stock. It was OK for the sheep, but I really found myself wishing for my corgi back to move the goats!
I don't see anything to indicate cattle dog or auusie. The dog in the photo is overweight, that is contributing the the "square" look of those breeds.
Beagle, possibly. Probably some sort of medium-sized terrier in the mix, too.
We've kept quiet lately, doing a lot of training in our various sports, but Buddy and I ventured up north for an AHBA (American Herding Breed Association) herding trial this weekend.
Buddy ran on goats for the first time, and had quite a good time. We got one nice shot...the "object" was to pass between these little panels, then we had to "hold" the stock calmly in the field for a little bit. Buddy is about to swing out to the side to cover the exit gate, which was where the goats wanted to go, but not where they needed to go. He had a couple of great runs, despite a little goat who didn't think he needed to mind a small red dog. Buddy taught him otherwise. ;)
For most of this trial, I was helping with setting out stock. Since an entered dog cannot be used to set stock at a trial, I had to do it without Buddy, which he didn't particularly care for.
Earlier this month we did a string of AKC agility trials, where Buddy has now moved up to the Master level, and earned his first few points toward his championship. Exciting stuff.
BTW, Buddy will be 9 years old in November!
Scout's House is located in Menlo Park, California, so quite a ways from you, but they have a lot of good resources on their website.
BTW, the corgi featured prominently in their photos is my Diva's Great-Grandpa Jack. Unfortunately DM took him at age 12, but his last years were full of very high quality life thanks to his cart and the great care he received.
Congratulations! Goes to show age is just a number. The working relationship between dog and handler is very complex, and difficult to understand if you haven't walked that path in person...but they do tell you when they have had enough.
The corgi herding community had a sad week....one of the greats of the breed, a DC (dual champion, both conformation and herding) crossed the Bridge at the age of 14 1/2. I count myself lucky to have seen this dog (and her litter brother, also a DC) run many times, including several runs at 11+ years of age.
We have flat nylon collars embroidered with my cell number. Dogs don't wear tags because of danger of snags, etc. I keep them on the key rack by the door. However, we were on the road for some trials over the 4th, so we re-attached everyone's tags...1 for rabies, 1 ID with name, address, and cell phone. Tags are on a spring-loaded clip for easy on-off from the collars.
I've had some success with the Thundershirt. Don't let him out of the crate/up on the bed, etc when he's upset...it's a scam, and he's playing you!
If the Thundershirt doesn't work, the type of drugs BCSnob mentioned would be the next thing I'd try.
Incidentally, if he's already out of the crate when the thunder starts, don't put him in. The key is to remain status quo. If he's loose in the house when the thunder starts up, try to make a game of "hear a boom, get a piece of kibble".
Let's just say; leg, loin, and shoulder were not their preferred cuts.
OK, Mark, that last sentence made me spray my iced tea all over the montitor! :B
I briefly fed BB and wasn't impressed. Our dogs do much better on the Turkey and Sweet Potato formula from Costco, at nearly half the price.
While I agree with Dr. Doug that byproducts in pet food is not necessarily bad and can be good, does anybody else find it slightly ironic that the lawsuit was brought by Purina?
Corgi-traveler, I'm in Sacramento. Maybe we know each other? Will you be at the TRACS agility trial weekend after this? ;)
Small world. I doubt we have met, but my young corgi Diva is from Auburn, you probably know her breeder Christine (she runs Spy, the black Pembroke). I generally only go north of Turlock for special occasions. Sometimes I'll do a herding trial in Vacaville, sometimes I'll enter the all-breed show in Grass Valley, and we usually do obedience in Carmel each July. Other than that I'm all SoCal. This weekend I am doing agility in Camarillo, where it will be 77 degress as compared to the 104 here in the valley.
Dealing with 400 crates does present a challenge, but there are solutions out there. In a Class C toyhauler, you've got plenty of crate room, but your "permanent" bed is the cabover. The loft bed in the back may or may not appeal to you.
A lot of dog people will get a floorplan that has a "barrel chair" right behind the passenger seat, then remove that chair for crate space. Our old Class A actually had a flip-up table between the passenger seat and that chair, and our 200 crate fit perfectly in that space under the table. I have a friend who stacks 4 size 200 crates (2x2) in the barrel chair space, so you could probably stack two 400's one on top of the other. The third one might go on the floor up against the back of the driver's seat, might only block half of the dinette, leaving you one dinette bench to sit on plus your back corner bed.
Good for you for starting your research early!
A lot of your answer depends on how big/how many dogs, and what you are comfortable driving/towing. A class C motorhome has a lot of advantages: you will have a generator, you don't have to hitch/unhitch anything, and it's easy to find spots for the dogs to ride in their crates. The disadvantages are every time you need to move your vehicle, you have to move this big monstrosity, and unless you go to a really big class C you won't have much space. Our first RV experience was a little C like you described. It got really old having no place to sit besides the bed, especially to eat. Then we moved into an older Class A. Plenty of space, crates rode in the dinette while we were in motion, and sat on the floor in the front when we were parked. However, I really hated driving it, and that, coupled with its advanced age and mechanical problems led us to downsize. We are now in a pickup/travel trailer, and are actually in the process of shopping for a somewhat larger trailer. I have corgis, and even with three small dogs it gets very cramped, very quickly. I am currently leaning toward a bunkhouse model with an eye toward converting the bunks to a dog space. A toyhauler also works really well..
The next few trials you attend, look at the grounds from an RV perspective. Where do the RV's park? Ringside? Near rings but on site? Off-site and driving in for the day? How are those RV's hooked up? Do they have water, power, and sewer? Just power? Or are they dry camping (just your generator/batteries/water tanks)
I compete in herding, obedience, and agility, so I see a lot of different venues. Our favorite herding facility does not allow RVs on site, so everyone camps at a rec area less than 5 miles away. Driving to the site is easy for me, unhitch the pickup and go. Less fun for those in the big diesel pushers, they have to either tow a car behind or hitch a ride! Most obedience trials are at either schools or fairgrounds. Schools tend to be a dry-camping experience, but at least you are on site. Fairgrounds usually but not always mean at least electricity and frequently water too, but you might be a ways from your rings. Most of the agility trials I attend are in city parks. Can't camp overnight, so folks use nearby RV campgrounds and park in the day-use parking lots. Knowing where you will be staying most of the time will affect your decision not only for type of RV, but how big your water tanks, generator, etc need to be!
It's finally time to get a new unit. We danced around the issue last fall, decided to wait, but it's time.
Long story short - looked at an 06 Outback 21RS at a local dealer the other day. Really liked the side door with the bottom flip-up bunk. It would suit our particular needs very well. We need a place for dog crates at night. It's complicated. :)
That particular TT was not in the best of shape, though, and even at a pretty good price I'll still pass. Crack in the fiberglass at the bottom corner of the slideout, bubbles in the front cap, peeling wallpaper in the slide, just to name a few.
I'd be open to that model if we found one in better shape, but also wondering what other options are.
I could take or leave the rear slide, but a permanent queen bed is a must, and a bunk that either flips up or could be removed without destroying the trim, etc is a big, big plus.
Due to TV limitations the trailer needs to be under 25ft and weigh less than 5000 dry. Open to suggestions.
The cider vinegar treatment works best when applied to a wet coat, not directly to dry skin.
Every dog bath at our place, except for the very rare appearance in a conformation dog show, ends with a special rinse. 1 part apple cider vinegar, 1 part brewed green tea (cooled), to 4 parts distilled water. It's the final rinse after the shampoo is out but coat and skin are still fully wet. Immediately towel and then blow dry. I've had dogs with sensitive skin before, had lots of allergy sufferers, but never had a problem. It does help with the itchies. So long as you get the dog thoroughly dry, no sweet pickle smell!