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RE: Microwave wire hit
Thanks frankwp. I will give it a try. I have a similar tool I call a tone tracer that does nearly the same thing.
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mikebusc
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07/14/12 07:46pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Microwave wire hit
Yes I know but like I said I'd have to take apart the whole section that supports the roof, and I really don't want to do that. I do read continuity from all the metal areas all around where they installed, because it's all connected. I just can't get to behind their supports to get to the exact screw. I mean you know and I know whats going on but I was just trying to find a way that I could prove to them more easily what has happened. Not that I'm positive they're going to fight me on it but the more info I have the better.
I guess I'll just play it out and if they do try and fight me then I will have to start taking things apart. Good thing is I'm not paid in full yet.
Thanks to all who tried to help.
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mikebusc
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07/14/12 05:24pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Microwave wire hit
Mile High, read my previous post. I don't want them to come back to me and say "how do we know it wasn't already shorted?". Believe me, me being a contractor and knowing many of them over the years, a lot of them will never admit fault without proof.
Again I'm looking for someone who "may have knowledge" of this "particular rig". So I can show them that "yes, the wires are in this particular area". Then I could repair it by running a new line from underneath. And back charge for my time. I don't ever need to find where they exactly hit it. A very large section of the new stucture would have to be disassembled and I'd rather not go there if I don't have to.
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mikebusc
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07/14/12 03:17pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Microwave wire hit
Actually, what I'm asking, if anyone here is familiar with the construction of this particular model, is if the lines were run up high, sort of right above where the outside awning would be. I know how to ro run a new line if need be but if I had someone with first hand knowledge of where the wiring is run it could back-up my claim of them driving a screw through it, without ripping into the walls and find it. I personally don't want to do anything to repair it. I want them to do it. I've got enough going on.
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mikebusc
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07/14/12 01:50pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Microwave wire hit
I guess I didn't explain myself fully. Yes the microwave is pluged into an outlet. The microwave circuit is a 20 amp home run to the panel (has to be by code). The problem is that the circuit wire going to the outlet has been hit. I've already tested with my equipment. It is a dead short in the line.
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mikebusc
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07/14/12 11:16am |
Fifth-Wheels
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Microwave wire hit
Hi there. My rig is on a permanent spot now and I just had a pre-fab patio room installed. They just finished this week and when I first went in I noticed the microwave was off. Breaker was tripped. Try to re-set it but it's a dead short. I am a licensed electrician and will start some troubleshooting today although this is actually the installers' problem. I just want to know if anyone knows how the RV may be wired. I'm used to houses. The microwave sits up high over the stove. It's along the same wall as the circuit breaker panel. The only place it looks like they could have screwed into it is along the top. My unit is a 2006 KZ Montego Bay Fifth wheel 37RLB4.
If anyone has any info on this particular unit and how it may be wired I'd appreciate the input.
Thanks, Mike
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mikebusc
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07/14/12 06:54am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Anyone ever moved furnace exhaust?
Yes, I'm definetly not going to change how it exhausts either way. It seems like just deciding where to move it to.
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mikebusc
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06/06/12 08:19pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Anyone ever moved furnace exhaust?
Will do. Thanks.
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mikebusc
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06/04/12 03:07pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Anyone ever moved furnace exhaust?
Well, I have no intention of NOT doing it correctly. That's why I posted the question here. I don't think though that too many people here have much experience with this. Alot of what not to do, which I already know much of, and not so much of what to do. I mean I am going to do it the right way as soon as I found out what that is. I did think about movimg the whole system to the opposite end of the RV.
If anyone does have experience with this I'd appreciate the advice. If not maybe I'll talk to an installer who does these for a living. I just hate to go to a pro and ask. As if I'm trying to get free info and cut him out.
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mikebusc
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06/04/12 02:27pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Anyone ever moved furnace exhaust?
Chris, I guess I'm not really following. I don't understand what you mean by move the furnace into the sunroom wall.
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mikebusc
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05/31/12 06:59pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Anyone ever moved furnace exhaust?
Hate to not use the existing A.C.'s. I've got two roof top units and one is only 2 years old. Im going to re duct them to go into the new room.
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mikebusc
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05/30/12 07:29pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Anyone ever moved furnace exhaust?
I will have electric baseboard heat in the sunroom itself. I know it will be a lot of work but maybe I should try moving the furnace to the other side of the rig. I've got plenty of room under there to do it.
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mikebusc
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05/30/12 07:01pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Anyone ever moved furnace exhaust?
How about duct with an inline 12v fan to help it along the way? There has to be some way. There's many of these with sunrooms built on. I appreciate the insight but I'm really looking for someone who's done this. I already know what not to do.
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mikebusc
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05/30/12 06:54pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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Anyone ever moved furnace exhaust?
I know according to the manufacturer you're not supposed to change the exhaust in any way. That being said, I need to move my exhaust. I'm having a sunroom built on to my 5th wheel and the furnace exhaust will be in the addition. Does anyone have any experience with this? The exhaust port will be about 5" above my sub-floor. I was first thinking about going down and under with the diversion but I'm not sure how gravity will affect it. I also thought about ducting straight up and boxing it in the wall. But then I'd have to have the roof cut and I'm not so keen on that either.
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mikebusc
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05/30/12 06:28pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: How much power through 30amp to 15amp connection.
Yes, the space heater will draw more current!
This is really not open to debate at this point. Your error is that you are considering this a situation of constant resistance and trying to apply Ohm's Law: V = I * R. With constant resistance, power and current are directly proportional. Resistance is only constant in purely resistive loads. Nothing about a connection to a motorhome connection is a purely resistive load. When you move past purely resistive loads then POWER is usually constant, not resistance. Therefore, Power = V * I where voltage and current are inversely proportional.
If you don't trust what I and others have shown you then there are multiple sources on the Internet that you should spend some time reading.
Let's start with GE (General Electric) and their motor protection principles educational page: http://www.gedigitalenergy.com/multilin/family/motors/principles4.htm
And I quote "The overall result of an undervoltage condition is an increase in current and motor heating."
Or try this excellent source of motor theory: http://www.motorsanddrives.com/cowern/motorterms12.html
And I quote "to drive a fixed mechanical load connected to the shaft, a motor must draw a fixed amount of power from the power line. The amount of power the motor draws is roughly related to the voltage times current (amps). Thus, when voltage gets low, the current must get higher to provide the same amount of power."
This is wrong on a number of levels. I have a bachelor science degree in electrical engineering. You guys are simply wrong. The master electrician is correct in his statement. Voltage = amperage x resistance. Power = Volts * Amps. Power stays constant. Therefore voltage and current are inversely proportional. When voltage drops, amps go up. Always have, always will. It is simple math once you have V=I*R and Power = V * I.
A space heater will draw more current with lower voltage?
You better check your meter.
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mikebusc
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05/30/12 03:38pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Is battery needed for permanent hook-up?
Thanks for the great info.
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mikebusc
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05/30/12 03:33pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: How much power through 30amp to 15amp connection.
Thanks for the back-up jeffcarp.
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mikebusc
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05/29/12 07:31pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: How much power through 30amp to 15amp connection.
Right, the microwave will take longer beacause of the inverse of the formula. P=IxE. Where P is the watts, I is the amps, and E is the voltage. So lowering either the volts or amps will decrease the watts.
But I think with flexing these college course muscles we've gotten really far away from what the poster wanted to know. Basically, again, if your circuit breaker is working correctly, there should be no potential harm.
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mikebusc
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05/29/12 07:10pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: How much power through 30amp to 15amp connection.
Do you doubt me? Its simple electrical theory. It's called Ohm's law. The wattage divided by the voltage equals amperage (I=P/E). I'm a Master electrician and have been for many years. But don't take my word for it. Go look it up and then get back to us (preferably with your tail between your legs). And by the way, that physics class, done, long ago!
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mikebusc
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05/29/12 06:53pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: How much power through 30amp to 15amp connection.
?
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mikebusc
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05/29/12 06:40pm |
Beginning RVing
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