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Topic: Power Gear Jack Repair

Posted By: franknsandy on 12/23/07 07:57am

I have a Power Gear Leveling Jack that is leaking fluid (still usable for now). I have found that I can order a replacment seal kit and I have the instructions, however I am not where I can do this repair, nor do I have the big tools to do it, and the local Camping World will not touch "Power Gear"
We are in Jacksonville FL area and in the spring we plan on being in Las Vegas for a while.
Does anyone know where to get the jack repaired, and maybe some idea of the cost.
Our rig is 96 Dolphin DP, jack is right, rear.

Frank n Sandy
96 Dolphin Diesel / 2002 Saturn
Fulltiming since 2004

Posted By: jsr21 on 12/23/07 08:54am

Look in the local phone book/yellow pages for hydraulic repair...or try using google also.
I had one done on a 2000 Dolphin. I took it off myself and took it to a Hydraulic shop. They said..oh no problem, we can fix that.
I believe it cost me under $100.
If you could remove it yourself (not too hard to do) you could take it to a hydraulic shop. If not..maybe they would make a house call for you.
You don't need to contact a RV Dealer to get it fixed.
Good luck..John

Posted By: gordonls on 12/23/07 09:27am

Rebuild both rear jacks. The rebuild kit from Power Gear has an upgraded seal. The old seal is an "O" Ring, the replacement is a chevron shaped seal. Does a lot better seal.

2015 Thor Fourwinds 31W
2012 Buick Enclave Toad
FMCA F376075

Posted By: wa8yxm on 12/23/07 01:52pm

Wheeler's RV, on Las Vegas Bvld south of the road to Pahrump (Blue Diamond expressway, I think it's exit 27 or therabouts off the I-15) should be able to do it, Give them a call. They are the authorized DAMON dealer, they are also Camping World, Las Vegas

Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377

Posted By: Jerry B on 12/23/07 02:30pm

gordonls wrote:

Rebuild both rear jacks. The rebuild kit from Power Gear has an upgraded seal. The old seal is an "O" Ring, the replacement is a chevron shaped seal. Does a lot better seal.

I need to rebuild two jacks also. Could you provide some detail/degree of difficulty on how to do the job? Thanks.

Jerry B
Mobile Suites 36TK3

Posted By: Troubleshooter on 12/23/07 02:55pm

Take a look here for instructions on replacing the seals in a Power Gear jack.
Jack Seal Replacement
I have read where some RVers have replaced the seals without removing the jack housing from the RV. Never tried it myself, so have no firsthand experience.

Only One Old Fellow's Opinion

2002 Discovery 3126E CAT
2004 Saturn VUE
Mountain Master Tow Brake

Posted By: JerryofWV on 12/23/07 04:23pm

I just replaced the seals on my right front jack. I bought the kit from Power Gear, about $112 with shipping.

The hardest part was getting the jack off and back on the mh. I used a 3/4 inch socket and box end wrench. There are six bolts that hold the jack. The top two on each side are a little hard to get to.

It was easy putting in the new seals.

Jerry & Dee Dee Pauley

2005 Monaco Monarch SE, Workhorse, Falcon II tow bar, ReadyBrake, 2012 Jeep Liberty Toad

The happiest people don't necessarily have the best of everything. They just make the best of everything they have.

Posted By: dixietrain on 12/23/07 05:04pm

Try Dick Gore's RV World. It's near the Jacksonville airport (14590 Duval Place West, Jax, 32218). I plan on taking my Tradewinds there to have the motor on my power gear levelers replaced. I had a large amount of work done there last year, expensive, but well done. Call Jose Melendez, 904-741-5100.


Summer and George Williams
1999 Tradewinds
Towing 2001 Turbo Beetle 5sp

Posted By: 2manytoyz on 12/23/07 09:11pm

I was lucky, only had to replace the spring on mine. The instructions called for the removal of the jack, but I found that wasn't necessary in my case. For seal removal, the entire thing must be pulled.

I posted some pictures of the spring replacement, which shows the bolts on the ram assembly. Might find it helpful if you haven't climbed underneath the MH yet to assess the job. Details on the repair I did is at this link.

I was also going to recommend going to a local hydraulic shop. This is normal work for them. But I would order the seal kit ahead of time, so just have them do the work.

Don't know why Camping World would thumb their nose at this job. Power Gear includes very good instructions, and they make nice hardware. I would easily tackle such a job myself. Picnic table, pipe wrench, clamp... [emoticon]

Good luck

Merritt Island, FL
2007 Rockwood TT 2502
Equalizer Hitch
2010 Ford F-150 FX4 -w- Max Tow Package
Yamaha EF2400iS

Posted By: franknsandy on 12/24/07 06:38am

Thanks for the feedback,
I will check out the local hydraulic repair shops, didn't think of that. I will order the seal kit first though.
I have been underneath, and it appears to be an easy enough removal and re-install.
I have read the instructions and they appear to be pretty straight forward, but away from our home and shop, it does not look like a picnic table repair.
Camping World in St. Augustine said they only work on HTH (or something like that). I asked them why not power gear and they said they didn't have a tech for them. Sounds like a bull%&(%^ answere to me.
I had not thougt of doing them both, good idea. Maybe I will do them one at a time, see how the 1st one works out.
Again, Thanks Guy's

* This post was edited 12/24/07 06:46am by franknsandy *

Posted By: wa8yxm on 12/24/07 10:38am

Re; Picnic table.... Depends on if you have a clamp on vice.

Here is a suggestion... Get a spare hitch adapter for the receiver on your MH (As it happens I have a few) This should be a 'Drop' type adapter for a hitch ball by the way, The kind where the ball can be below or above the receiver level.

Now, Have a body shop or weld shop weld a 4: or larger vice onto the "Tong" of the adapter in the "UP" position (Vice higher than receiver) you now have a bench vice that is well anchored, NOTE: a long adapter or an extension gets it farther from your rig.. If you have a 5'th wheel this goes on the tow truck's 2" receiver In my case it goes on the towed's 1 1/4 inch adapter

Posted By: gordonls on 12/24/07 10:57am

Jerry B wrote:

gordonls wrote:

Rebuild both rear jacks. The rebuild kit from Power Gear has an upgraded seal. The old seal is an "O" Ring, the replacement is a chevron shaped seal. Does a lot better seal.

I need to rebuild two jacks also. Could you provide some detail/degree of difficulty on how to do the job? Thanks.

Jerry B,
The job isn't too bad if you follow the directions that come with the rebuild kit. My jacks have the internal springs. I wouldn't even attempt to do the job without removing the jacks. I used a floor jack to support the jack while I disconnected the hydraulic lines (I put a plastic bag over the hose end to keep the fluid from leaking out)and removed the 6 mounting bolts. You need to make sure all of the fluid is drained out of the jack. I turned mine upside down in a bucket and also removed the plug opposite the hose connection to help drain the oil. If you don't get all the oil out you have a near impossible chance at getting the bolt threads hot enough to melt the "LockTite" thread lock. Just follow the directions. Good Luck.

Posted By: Jerry B on 12/24/07 01:52pm

Thanks Gordonis. I'll be away from home base until March. Better wait on this job until I get home. Thanks

Posted By: franknsandy on 12/24/07 04:23pm

Thanks for the vice info. GREAT IDEA. Will put one together in the near future.

Posted By: franknsandy on 03/19/08 09:11pm

I found a hydrolic repair company here in Las Vegas that repairs them for most of the RV dealers, cost of repair (re-seal) if I bring it in is $125 to $150. Says he has been repairing them for over 7 years and no call backs. The Jack Shop.

Posted By: Gas Man on 03/20/08 09:37am

Since the jack is still usable, inspect the extended shaft for pitting before ordering parts. Putting a new seal kit in won't be of much help if the first time you cycle the jack the pitted areas destroy the new seal. Shafts are available too if needed. Helps to do preventative maintenance on all jacks on a regular basis. If you camp and have a major rainfall wipe the shafts down before you retract them, keeps the grit splashed by rain from being wiped off at the seals. Also wipe and spray the extended shafts down with pure silicone spray at least monthly, just cycle up and down several times. Don't use petroleum based lubricants as they will hasten the deterioration of wipers and seals.

D. Brown
Winston-Salem, NC.
2004 Damon Daybreak 3270F

Remembering my best friend Max, gone to the Rainbow Bridge 1-13-10

Posted By: arlinv on 03/20/08 10:03am

I've had two repaired in the last 3 1/2 years. One was a 16,000# which required the more expensive kit, and the most recent (a couple of months ago) was for a 24,000# on my current coach. The first cost $30 at a local hydraulic repair shop, and the second $60 at the same shop. They did the last one in about 45 minutes while I waited for it. I just removed/replaced them.

'03 American Eagle 42E

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