RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Temps up, how cool can you get inside?

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers

 > Temps up, how cool can you get inside?

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 8  
Next
Sponsored By:
relliott75

Kansas

Full Member

Joined: 04/12/2012

View Profile



Posted: 06/27/12 10:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've got a 2007 Jayco 29 FBS with the polar package (enclosed underbelly and I guess increased insulation) and on our last trip the coolest I could get it was 14 below ambient outdoor temps which was 113 last night. With two young kids,99 degrees inside doesn't work too well with DW. So, my question is - is this normal? I'm looking at a new 2013 Jayco 31BDS because I can get it with 15k AC unit and dual pane windows....I'm also considering getting a generator to power the TT AC unit but if it only goest 14 below then it won't matter of its on when we roll down the road or not.....


2007 Jayco 29FBS / GVWR 8800
2010 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 CTD MEGACab 4x4 Laramie
Kansas City, Kansas
DW, 2 Kids & 100 pound GSD!

christopherglenn

Near Yosemite

Senior Member

Joined: 02/16/2009

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/27/12 10:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Park under a tree, look into replacing a vent with a second ac. 15k won't be much better (maybe 2 or 3 degrees), you need WAY more.


2007 Chevrolet 3500 CC/LB Duramax/Dually 4X4 Mine r4tech, Reese Signature Series 18k +slider, duratrac, Titan 62 gallon, diamond eye, Cheetah 64
2011 Keystone Fusion 405 TrailAir & Triglide, Centerpoint, gen-turi, 3 PVX-840T, XANTREX FREEDOM SW3012, G614


clearnetedm

Alberta

Senior Member

Joined: 07/06/2010

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 06/27/12 10:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I cant relate to that kind of heat, but perhaps you can get the dealer to stage the RV. Ask them to run the AC for an hour or so during one of those days and see the difference. Not sure if that is an option for you with the new prospect?


2013 F150 XLT 3.5EB Max Tow
2008 Ford Expy EL
2012 Rockwood 2601S

johnrbd

San Joaquin Valley

Senior Member

Joined: 09/12/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 06/27/12 10:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Those "polar packages" are a joke.

If you want it half way comfortable inside on super hot days, park in the shade and turn the a/c on before your start your morning coffee. If traveling, stop early and get the a/c running. Open and close of door should be kept to a minimum.

Priority ONE - On you new trailer, get the 15K unit and the 2nd a/c unit.

Above all else, remember, you are camping and a bad day camping is better than a good day at work!





SooperDaddy

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 08/13/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/27/12 10:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We got some mylar foil bubble insulation...the rolls that you can get at Home Depot.
Cut to a snug fit in all your windows and also the roof vents. It acts as a radiant barrier because it's reflective to the heat, and provides insulation by being both radiant AND non-conductive barriers....right around R-7 which is the same as your Jaycos' walls! Just plain glass only has an insulation R-value of less than 1!

13,500 BTU is never going to cool down your RV to the level you want. We have 2 13,500 BTU roof A/C's on our Jayco 5er..and with the mylar BB wrap it's so-o-o-o-o cool!


* This post was edited 06/27/12 10:58pm by an administrator/moderator *


My posts shouldn't be taken for factual data, and are purely fictional, for entertainment purposes, should not be constituted as related to scientific, technical, engineering, legal, religious, spiritual, or practical advice. After all it's FREE! Amen.


travel-lady

Apple Valley

Senior Member

Joined: 11/10/2011

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/27/12 11:35pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That's odd we live in the high desert and our A/C gets our trailer so darn cold we put on a sweater....I'm talking over the 110 mark.....


08 PassPort 245RB
08 Dodge Mega-cab W/Hemi
03 Jayco 10X Quest Pop up
Years of Tent Camping
Pickles the camping Papillon

Leave nothing behind but your footsteps.


Golden_HVAC

Fulltime, CA, USA

Senior Member

Joined: 08/19/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/27/12 11:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fordsooperdooty wrote:

We got some mylar foil bubble insulation...the rolls that you can get at Home Depot.
Cut to a snug fit in all your windows and also the roof vents. It acts as a radiant barrier because it's reflective to the heat, and provides insulation by being both radiant AND non-conductive barriers....right around R-7 which is the same as your Jaycos' walls! Just plain glass only has an insulation R-value of less than 1!

13,500 BTU is never going to cool down your RV to the level you want. We have 2 13,500 BTU roof A/C's on our Jayco 5er..and with the mylar BB wrap it's so-o-o-o-o cool!


I agree that a little extra insulation will help, and windows typically conduct heat better than prevent it from coming in. Dual pane windows will really help. But if it is 113 outside often, move to a cooler area, or select the dual air conditioner option.

Test your A/C it probably is not working up to par. If the air going in is 99F, then the air coming out should be 79F or less. There should always be a 18 - 22F temperature drop across the cooling unit. Yet if you have not washed the condenser lately, or the air filter and indoor coil are really dirty, this can reduce cooling capacity.

You can wash the outdoor coil with a garden hose, most units you do not even need to remove the cover, just spray it with water just like cleaning your truck's radiator once a year. And do the same to your home A/C unit outside coil. Don't spray in water to quickly, as it might find it's way inside, so have someone inside in case there is a small drip, they can stop the wash process. If you have not tightened your A/C gasket lately, there are 4 bolts that clamp the A/C to the roof, and these bolts should be tightened about 1 turn every couple of years to sort of snug down the gasket.

If you have less than 15F drop from inlet to outlet temperature, then changing the A/C unit is a lot less expensive than replacing the RV.

Most toy haulers come with a 18 - 36 gallon fuel tank for both the generator and refilling your toys and perhaps even the car. Also generator option is more common on a toy hauler. They come with 100 gallon fresh water tanks, and generous grey and black tanks too. Even if you are not into dirt bikes, they have a nice size garage that can be left a living room, and never turned into a garage, I can see putting in a couple of large recliners in that area, and using it like a living room, separate from the rest of the trailer in many cases. Sometimes with it's own A/C unit.

I really like the options I am seeing in RV's now, like the outside kitchen option. They are making as many steps now as when they first introduced slide outs back around 1995.

Another thing that I have on my roof to help shade part of it is solar panels, with a 1" air gap to the roof, so the solar panels take the heat, while the roof is shaded under the 45 or so square feet of solar panels that I have on the roof.

I cut Reflex insulation to cover many of my windows, and have sunscreens on the outside of my windshield, that helps reflect the sunlight, and any sun hitting it is absorbed by the windshield cover, so that heat stays outside.

Fred.

cm

Dillon, CO USA

Senior Member

Joined: 08/01/2002

View Profile



Posted: 06/28/12 01:05am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Go to the web site for Reflectix and look at the FAQ and Installation Instructions.

Unless you use at least a 3/4 inch air space you will not get anything like the claimed R-7 insulation value. Most people do not installl this type of material properly.

Son of Norway

Denver, Colorado

Senior Member

Joined: 10/12/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 06/28/12 01:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Two days ago in 105 deg weather we never got above 84 deg inside with only one air conditioner running. We keep all the blinds closed and the curtains drawn. We start running the air conditioner at 8 am. When running just one air conditioner we "sacrifice" the back bedroom by closing the folding door and only cooling the main part of the coach. We use the awnings to keep the sides of the coach out of the sun. But we didn't have any kids to keep happy, you deserve a prize.

Miles


Miles and Darcey
1989 Holiday Rambler Crown Imperial
Denver, CO


tbrowne

Springfield, OH

Senior Member

Joined: 12/09/2001

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/28/12 05:09am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Go camping in cooler weather! It doesn't make much sense to go camping and be stuck in a camper the whole time. Visits museums and indoor attractions with air conditioning in really hot weather.


Terry Browne


This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 8  
Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers

 > Temps up, how cool can you get inside?
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Travel Trailers


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS