I have a broken exhaust bolt on a 94 e350 I made a bracket that I bolted on the block, it holds another bolt that provides pressure on the portion of the manifold over the broken bolt.
That was about eight years ago and so far no leaks that I am aware of.
Can you post any pics? I have a '88 (actually '87 chassis) Jamboree, 460cid with about 50K (perhaps 150K?) with a broken exhaust stud. Unlike most, mine is the driver side rear rather than passenger side. It ticks sometimes, quiets down when warmed up. I really don't want to dig into removing the manifold and/or head, and your idea intrigues me.
Wow, brings back some memories. Our first MH was a '78 23' Roll-a-Long. They were a very well made, solidly built coach for their time. Even had an automatic transfer switch for the generator/shore power, something that was typically only found on high end class As at the time.
I also remember those lenses; the flourescent lighting (not incandescent) was recessed into the bottom of the cabinets, rather than surface mounted fixtures. Again, somewhat high-end compared to most other MHs of the era (and even today).
Our coach was purchased used in '89, and those interior lenses were yellowed, reducing the light output. I purchased a 2'x3' piece of acrylic lens (from Home Depot, for indoor flourescents) and cut my own replacements, as I couldn't find any actual Roll-a-Long parts.
In 1989, we bought our first MH. It was a 1978 Roll-a-long, 23', Ford 460. It had 96,000 miles, but was equipped with everything we wanted, had the layout we wanted, and ran like a champ. Paid $12K. 11 years old, drove it for another 10 years & 35K miles, and it never missed a beat!
In 1999, bought a 1988 Jamboree, 27', Ford 460. It had 38,000 miles. Paid $15K. In the first year, tranny went and needed a $1500 rebuild. But it's been nearly bulletproof since (still driving it).
Yes, they are out there. Check them out carefully, and take a chance. No real need to spend $75K+ on a MH for what you want to do with it.
I'm considering a SS over a Macerator (although I admit I haven't used either). At full hook-up sites, I prefer to use the 3" slinky for the "whoosh" referred to earlier, but after boondocking, I typically go to a local campground to dump for $10 when I return. At home however, I have access to a sewer cleanout (4") about 30' from my MH pad, and it is about 6-12" higher than my pad.
Why the SS instead of the Macerator? A couple of reasons:
First, price (I like to think I'm frugal, DW & kids would likely argue "cheap").
Second, Not a whole lot to go wrong or break down with the SS. I have read reports of macerator pumps failing from hair or other debris wrapped around the impellor, and just the fact that it uses an electric motor and blades to chop & pump increases the chances of failure.
So for those that have used them (either); I ask: Would you buy it again (SS or Macerator)? Any downsides? "Whoo-yeah's" or "ah-****s"?
Class C, class A, TT, 5er...there are just way too many complex "systems" on board that twist, shake, rattle, and roll down the highway for hours on end. If you get a single trip without ANYTHING going wrong, you're probably either lucky, or you just haven't actually noticed what broke yet!
I have some oxidized painted areas on my mh, and buffing does not bring the shine to them. I was hoping one of these miricle products would have a glaze coat that would cover and seal while bringing some shine to the table.
The gel coat surface I have cleaned up nicely with Totally Awesome from the dollar store and with minimum effort.
My stripes are toast and have to come off.
Do these sealers have a topical shine to them like spraying on a clear coat?
Yes, it also works on painted surfaces. Go here and scroll down to the pics of my (painted) class C cab.
4x4van thanks so much for the info...I am how ever very hesitant to use bar keepers friend on my MH..It is very abrasive and I do believe it will remove what pait I have left...There are fine hair lines on the sides...What does any one suggest with that a ned paint job????
Don't panic. BarKeepersFriend is a scouring powder, but it is VERY mild. In fact, is says right on the can that it is a cleanser & POLISH, for FIBERGLASS. The white 3M scrubbie that I refer to is also very fine/mild. If you have oxidation, then it is the best combo that I have found to remove it. It works well, fairly quick & easy, and doesn't scratch.
Ultimately, it's up to you, as stated in my tutorial, what products you use to clean the surface. Just remember, whatever you decide to use as the final product (wax, Red Max, etc.), you need to get all of the oxidation and stains off first.
BTW, the fine "hair lines" and fibers that you see on the sides; the Red Max Pro will seal them up quite well. It is an acrylic coating that seals everything in.
I just looked at the Yankee Springs campground map on the DNR website. It seems the "campground" map don't show an 8-foot buffer strip on it. Looks to me like the all the sites back right up to the sites behind them. I've camped in Michigan for many years and have never run across any state campgrounds that had a so called "Unwritten Rule" and a buffer zone.
That map also doesnt show power poles does it. The site I was on is 198. Its the biggest one in the campground. But according to that map it isn't.
The power poles are located at the back of all sites with an 8-10 foot area inbetween. There are no full hook ups, just electric. So in your opinion, where does one site end and the other begin?
IMO, the sites begin/end 4-5' behind the power pedestal.
The power poles don't have to be shown on the map in order to determine that they are NOT at the back of the sites. Since the "official" map shows no buffer, and instead shows that the sites back up against each other, that proves to me that the pedestals are NOT at the back, and that there is no buffer zone (unwritten rules and hand drawn sketches don't hold up against the actual campground map). Is the campground map to scale? No, but neither is your sketch (according to you) so that's irrelevant. Scale or not, if there was an actual buffer zone, it would likely be reflected on the DNR campground map.
And according to your sketch, you also "intruded" into that (non-existent) buffer zone with your power cord. But based on the pictures, as well as the campground map, neither of you intruded into anything and were well within your own spaces, IMO. If you had complained to me about parking as that person did, I would have politely told you to go pound sand.
Which is exactly what nearly everyone in the "Red Max Pro crowd" has always stated. No one here suggested RMP to the OP, so I'm not sure why you even brought that into the conversation.
The 4th response on the first page was about using RMP. Apparently you haven't been folllowing along.:@
Ooops, you are correct. I apologize. (Yes, I did read the entire thread, justhappened to "miss" that. Getting old sucks!!
To the Red-Max Pro crowd..... If a rig is clearly in need of rejuvenation, I'd agree that RMP is the way to go. HOWEVER, if a rig already looks great and periodic maintenance is all that's required, a quick wax application is my preference.
Which is exactly what nearly everyone in the "Red Max Pro crowd" has always stated. No one here suggested RMP to the OP, so I'm not sure why you even brought that into the conversation.
And now my fridge seems to be working. I
Still having trust issues with it and have a backup running. The fridge took 3 days to get cold, with us not using it, well see...
An older fridge can typically take 2-3 days to get down to temp, if empty, especially this time of year. It will also cool down faster if on electric (110VAC) than on LPG or 12VDC. I plug mine in to 110VAC at least 2 days prior to heading out. Also, make sure that all the food you load into it is pre-chilled as well.
And while camping, DON"T WINDOW SHOP! Open the fridge, get what you need quickly, and close the fridge. They are small, and opening the door any longer than absolutely necessary will release most of the cold air. Then it needs to start all over again, and these units just do not operate as well as home units.
As some have suggested, you may also have a water filter somewhere. My RV has a small drinking water spigot on the sink next to the main faucet. That line goes through a filter that is located under the counter behind the drawers. The top 2 drawers must be removed to access/see it.
I did the Red Max treatment nearly 1 1/2 years ago, on a class C that was beyond help using any other method. The results were nothing short of fantastic, and after this long, it still looks like new, with just a single touch-up coat after 1 year.
Go here and scroll down to see the before/after pics of my older class C.
I've posted this before, but it gets buried after awhile, so here it is again:
Restoring the finish of an older RV using Red Max Pro:
-Red Max Pro (Step 3) Low Maintenance Floor Finish* (available only at Lowes, about $16)
-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white, fine)
- Microfiber rags (white or laundered)
* If you can’t find Red Max Pro #3 at Lowe’s, Home Depot sells the same product under a different name for slightly more money. It is Zep Wet Look Floor Finish, $25. (Both are made by ZEP.)
Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the Red Max Pro acrylic coating, and improper prep can also result in peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part! Do not try to cut corners here, or you will be sorry later. The cleaner your RV is, the better your final results will be.
Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the top down.
Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go (rinsing well is extremely important to remove all BKF residue. I used a "flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).
Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the Red Max to peel and flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well as you go, then rinse again using a sponge or brush with running water and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part is done!
Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the Red Max Pro (RMP) well, and pour some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip it into the RMP (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet microfiber rag. Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; RMP is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. The thin coat of RMP will dry very quickly; long before you’ve gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.
That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease on life! All for less than $30 total!
*Note: This procedure may slightly change/darken the color/shade of your RV.
Things (I learned) to keep in mind:
-I can’t stress the importance of the prep-work enough. Do not cut corners here. No wax, no soap, no residue of any kind can be left on the surface prior to the application of the RMP.
-Steps 2 & 3 can be reversed, if you'd prefer. Just make sure your final rinse is thorough and there is no residue (BKF or TSP) left behind.
-Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.
-Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re just trying to “moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If you are getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily.
-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the RMP is very watery and will have a tendency to gather at obstructions and cause runs. RMP dries fast, so keep an eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set up”.
-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage (steps 2 and 3), then begin step 4 with a quick wipe of RMP across the graphics first, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the RMP to the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the tutorial.
-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The RMP acrylic coating can sort of “glue” them closed.
-You can also do the window frames (avoid the glass) and other painted metal areas; in fact, I did my entire Class C cab since, like the rest of my RV, it was also very weathered and dull. Came out great!
A few final notes:
Some people have voiced concerns about the chemicals used in the prep stages. Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) is similar to scouring powder, but much less abrasive. In fact, it is made for cleaning and polishing fiberglass. Used with the fine white 3M scouring pads, it is excellent for removing stains, oxidation, and chalkiness from fiberglass gelcoat without scratching.
Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) is indeed a very strong cleaner. While it works very well to remove wax from the RV, it can burn if mixed too strong or left on your skin too long. If you are not comfortable with the TSP, some have reported good luck using Dawn dish soap to remove the wax.
Ultimately, neither of these products (BKF, TSP) are required. What is required is to remove all stains, soiling, oxidation, chalkiness, and wax from the surface of your RV prior to applying Red Max Pro, and to make sure that it is rinsed well to remove any residue of whatever you do use. Whatever methods you are comfortable with are fine, as long as they accomplish that.
Finally, Maintaining the Red Max Pro finish:
Now that your RV looks like it has a new, clear coated paint job, you’ll want to maintain that new finish as long as possible, right? Well, good news. With Red Max Pro, that’s easy to do as well.
Most commonly used car wash soaps and mild detergents will not harm the Red Max Pro finish, so you can wash your RV as you always have. In fact, you’ll probably find that it comes clean much easier than before, as dirt, bugs, and debris seems to “float” right off quite easily. You do want to avoid anything with Ammonia in it, such as some window cleaners, since ammonia will remove the Red Max Pro (think “floor stripper”). The tire cleaner spray at coin-op carwashes has also been shown to remove RMP. Minor scratches or blemishes in the RMP finish can be touched up easily with a quick coat or two of RMP. Do not apply wax, as wax will interfere with any “touch-up” coats of Red Max Pro later on down the road, causing them to peel or flake.
And after 6 months to a year, if the finish starts to lose it’s shine, just give the RV a good wash job, let dry completely, and then give the RV a quick touch-up coat or two of RMP, wiping it on just as you did originally.
I do not recommend this for a newer MH with a good finish, or with full body paint and/or clear coat that still shines and still responds well to waxes. This process is for older RVs that have lost their shine and no longer respond to conventional waxes and polishes. This procedure worked wonders on my weathered, oxidized RV, including the painted cab, and I have no regrets. However, these products are not designed or marketed for use on the exterior of RVs, and I make no warranty regarding their use or the long-term effects on your RV. Use at your own risk.
Why is everybody afraid to use their fridge on propane? That's what it is made for. The amount of propane that it uses is miniscule (it's nothing more than a large pilot light). While we camp with hookups during the summer and use electric for the fridge, in the winter we boondock and use the fridge on propane the entire 3-4 day weekends.
We also use propane while traveling (older unit, does not run on 12VDC at all). 6-8 trips per year, half with hookups, half without, use propane for cooking, water heater, and of course the furnace during winter, along with the fridge when traveling & boondocking. I have to fill my propane just once a year, twice at most.
Quite a few years ago, a good friend and his wife were on their way to the river, driving a truck/camper and pulling a ski boat. They stopped in Desert Center to gas up, and while they were gassing, let their dog "Babe" out of the camper to talk a quick walk around and do his business. Wife goes into the store for a few things, hubby finishes gassing and gets into truck. Wife exits store and also gets in truck. Each thought the other had put Babe back into the camper.
80 miles later, they arrive in Blythe, and pull into the campground. As they start setting up, their "mistake" becomes known, so hubby hops back into truck and speeds 80 miles back across the desert...to find Babe, patiently waiting on the curb at the gas station!
If you back your TT in so far that the power post for the space behind you is inside your setup space
you have to realize that something is Not correct
and thats what the offender did
the OP stated you can not see his post in the picture
it is obscured by the TT that is backed in to far
that is how the OP's shore cord passed thru the offenders site
If the OP did not use his own power pole, he would have had to connect to an adjacent site
because of what the offender did, he forced the OP into a decision
be rude to someone else or connect to his correct power pole
I would have ask them to pull forward , explaining they are blocking my path to my power pole and someone from their site might trip over my cord
You're wrong. The OP's power ped is not inside the "offender's" set-up space, it is not obscured by the trailer; it is obscured by the tree. The OP did use his own power pole. The "offender" forced nothing, and did not use the OP's ped, nor block the OP's path to his ped.
I've never been to a park where the pedestal was the marker for the space's rear boundary. Side boundary, yes, but never the rear. I'm also seeing much more than 8-10' between his pedestal and yours (where you claim yours is, anyway), so even if there is an 8-10" buffer zone, that would also suggest that the pedestal is not the "rear" boundary of the site, right? Finally, it appears that his trailer's hookups are located towards the front of his trailer, and since there is no "specified" site boundary, he likely backed in so that hooking up would be easy, rather than running his cord 20+ feet.
Since the sites are not marked with boundaries, who says there is an 8-10 foot "buffer" zone (if it's "unwritten", then it really isn't a "rule", is it?)? So let's look at this for a sec...It appears that the back of his trailer is closer to your pedestal than his (assuming your description of your pedestal's location is correct; conveniently left out of the pic). So if the pedestal is the space boundary as you claim, and if there is a buffer zone between them as you claim, then he is taking up most of the buffer, but is not in "your" space", is he? If there is no buffer zone, then he is indeed a few feet into your space (but that throws your "unwritten buffer zone rule" out the window, does it not?).
And like Ozlander said; how could you run your cord "through the middle of his site" if he is only using what you yourself called the "buffer zone"? So you ran your cord 10-15' behind your trailer, past the buffer zone into his site, and then all the way back to your pedestal to intentionally encroach into his site? Really? Yeah, that was certainly the "adult" thing to do. :R
The ZEP/Red Maxx will seal it up, and it will be a shiny ugly goo! I recommend removing it.
I cleaned all mine off first. Gently removed the bulk with a putty knife, followed with a rag and De-Solv-It (a citrus based cleaner, like goo-gone). Then went with the cleaning process (BKF & TSP/Dawn).