Unlike many here, I (and my wife) do not like the yellow color of "warm white". In an older MH, it just makes everything look old and dingy. Of course, the blue tint of "cool white" is bad as well. "Bright white, or Daylight white" is what we ended up with and like, although everyone has their own preferences.
But I shudder when I read of those who are paying $15-20 each for LED replacements! I replaced every bulb in my MH, over 20 bulbs, for about $100 total, using Amazon & eBay. I've got at least twice the light output, at 1/5 the current.Here's my experience.
Want better mileage? Get out of California. You'll take about a 10% hit in mileage by burning California's special "clean burning" oxygenated crap, not to mention paying 5-10% more for that priviledge!
There's no leakage under the hood, only inside the cab. The brakes work well UNTILL the pedal goes to the floor, then I have very little braking. No doubt that the MC is bad. I guess my concern is that since the fluid is actually getting all the way through the booster to the inside of the cab, then the booster is likely also bad, right?
On my last trip, I started having issues with my brakes. After pressing the brake pedal and initially having brakes, it would then lose pressure and slowly go to the floor. It happened a couple times to start, but by the time I nursed it home, it would slowly go to the floor every time. I've got no fluid leaking under the hood around either the master cylinder or the booster, and the fluid level is still near full, but I do have some fluid leaking down the firewall inside the cab where the brake pedal shaft goes through and into the booster. Obviously, the master cylinder is leaking and needs replacement/rebuild, but how is the fluid getting all the way into the cab, past the booster? Am I looking at a new booster as well?
or just talk into your toilet with flush valve open and you can hear which vent the sound comes out of
Just don't do that while IN a campground...you are likely to get some really strange looks from nearby campers!!
On my tank, the vent line is attached at the top of the tank, near the gravity fill hose, and does not extend into/inside the tank. The other end of that vent line is actually attached next to the cap of the gravity fill port, above the tank level.
I don't understand how this "siphon" is happening. If it is siphoning 1/4 or 1/3 of the tank volume, then that would require the vent line to be down inside the tank 1/4 or 1/3 of the way, and the loose end to be below the tank, regardless of how high the line goes (or loops) between the two. Can someone post a diagram showing how their tank lines are set up, including both the vent line and the fill line(s)?
As others have said, overall condition is probably the best indicator. Yes, RV drivetrains CAN go for many miles. They also CAN fail after low miles. If the rest of the coach has been maintained in good condition, then the engine has likely been done so as well. And even then, it is always a bit of a******shoot buying a 10+ year old motorhome.
Case(s) in point:
Our first coach was a 1979 Roll-a-Long, puchased in 1989 for $12K. It had 96,000 miles on it. We ran it for 10 years and it never missed a beat. Our next (and current) RV was a 1988 Jamboree purchased in 1999 for $15K. It had only 38,000 miles on it, and the trans went out on the second trip!
What you want is perhaps do-able, but make sure you go through it very thoroughly before your long trip, and take a few "shake-down" trips first to identify weaknesses as well. The fact that you are to be traveling alone means that you can look for units that are a bit smaller than many which may mean that they have not been as overloaded as a larger unit may have been. Good luck with your search (and your "de-angering" trip).
Ok I just pulled some grey and I think that was the source of the smell. What can I do to make it smell like kittens and roses again? :)
Put more kittens & roses in the grey tank.
Sorry, couldn't resist! :)
1988 27' Jamboree, 460cid, 4-barrel carb, run between 60-65mph.
During summer, tow 3 watercraft (2-seater, 3-seater, stand-up) along with 8 additional 5-gal cans of fuel; probably close to 3000lbs. 6.5 MPG.
During winter, tow 20' enclosed trailer with 4 ATV's & 1 motorcycle along with 5 additional cans of fuel; around 4000lbs. 6.5 MPG.
It is what it is, I don't do this because it's economical, and the difference between 6.5 MPG and 7.5 MPG? Not worth losing sleep over; I burn more fuel in the toys once I get there than I do in the MH getting there.:W
If the trailer doesn't have a battery, how does anything in it work (lights, water pump, etc.) once you are set up and camped? Hookups to an electrical panel?
For 12V power on the road, you'll need the same 6-conductor plug on your tow vehicle with the additional power conductor wired in to your hot/alternator/battery, or an auxilary battery; a simple 4-6 adapter won't do you any good, as only 4 of those 6 will be operational, although I suppose you could also run a single additional wire from your tow vehicle to the trailer.
Here's a quik pic of one of the fixtures with the lens removed, showing the relative size of the 48-5050 panel.
Trail-explorer: the LEDs you ordered should work well for you, although they may still have just a bit of yellow tint to them (4000K-4500K) Personally, I dislike the yellowish "warm white", but I also dislike the cold bluish tint of the "cool white". I converted my MH to all LEDs, using a middle-of-the road color, sometimes referred to as "pure white". It mimics pure midday daylight and gives the truest color rendering, as well as the brightest light (brighter than warm or cool). The actual color temp is 5000K-6500K. Any lower and it starts to appear yellow (a typical incandescent is about 3000K-3500K), any higher starts appearing blue. Of course, it also depends on just how accurate/honest the distributor is about the color temp that they "list"! I couldn't be happier with my results. Click here and scroll down to see pics of the color/results.
Mine stays in. I use it when I back into parking spaces that have a wall or rail at the back- keeps me from dinging my bumper.
Wow, really? So you intentionally bump into whatever you're backing up to? :S Do you also use other peoples' car sides when you open your door?
I just finished converting my entire RV to LEDs. I purchased a variety of units, from a variety of sellers, both on Amazon & eBay, some from US, most from overseas (Singapore, Hong Kong, Philippines). No problems with any of them, the longest shipping time was 21 calendar days, but most overseas vendors got them to me within 15 calendar days. I did have one of the wedge base 5-5050 units that had a single LED out, but it was from a US distributor, and the cost ($1.75, free shipping) isn't worth losing sleep over, especially since those particular bulbs ended up not working for my intended application anyway.
Interesting thread. It seems that everyone here having problems with their awning mounted LED strips are using the colored ones? I wonder if they are not as robust as the plain white strips? I just installed a white only strip on my awning roller; have two weekend trips under our belt (one to the central coast in cold drizzly weather, the second to Colorada River in 110 degree weather). So far, no issues, gonna keep my fingers crossed.:C
Have you measured the current drain of the 48-5050 panels?
Edit: Sorry, I just re-read your post where you said what the current drain is.
The interesting part is that I have 1 48-5050 panel that was from a different distributor than the other 7 since I was buying 1 or 2 at a time trying them out. That first one was slightly warmer in color (only noticable side by side, so I ended up using it in the closet so the color difference would not be noticeable), and the current draw was actually about 25% lower on that one. It was 0.28A while the others were all 0.37A each. Either way, it's a significant savings over the 1.41A that the incandescent bulbs draw.
While it's safe to say that ANY of the LED replacements will be significantly lower current draw than incandescents, figuring out exactly how much lower prior to actually measuring the drain is a hit or miss guessing game. Current will vary between different manufacturers and distributors, as well as different color temps. As I said, one of my 48-5050 panels draws 0.28A, while the others all draw 0.37A. By the math, the 36-5050 panel "should" draw 25% less than the 48-5050 panels, but instead it draws just more than half as much (0.2A vs 0.37A), although it is closer if you use my "warmer" 48-5050 panel as a starting point (0.2A vs 0.28A). Another example is the bulb style used in the porch light. That unit has only 13-5050 SMDs, so it would be logical to assume that the current draw would be at most 1/3 that of the 48-5050, right (13 SMDs vs 48)? Instead, it draws 0.27A, the same as the one "warmer" 48-5050 and just 25% less than the rest of my 48-5050 panels. Finally, the 5-SMD bulb styles that i used for the step light (in green) and my cab dome light (in white) each draw 0.05A, or 0.01A per SMD. But that current draw "per SMD" does not translate accurately to any of the higher number of SMD panels or bulbs.
So again, you can safely assume that converting to LEDs WILL save you significant current. But exactly how much is hard to tell until you actually buy & install them.
Your fixtures look bigger than mine. Guess Ill have to do some measuring. Mine are the smaller type with rounded corners. I do have one and two bulb fixtures. My main ceiling lights are flourescent so will leave those as is.
Thanks for the write up.
The panels themselves are not very big; 2 1/4" x 1 3/4" (58mm x 43mm). I'll try to get a pic with a lens cover removed so you can see the relative size.
I've been in RV's that switched to LED and really saw no difference in brightening up a MH.
Perhaps that is because they used the "warm white" rather than the 5000K-6000K color temp? Mine is so much brighter than before that it is like a new MH!
Sorry, I don't have "before" pics, but trust me, this is a huge upgrade.
What you see in these pictures is 2 double bulb ceiling fixtures + all 4 under-cabinet strips (each replaced a double-bulb fixture). Total current draw as pictured is just 4.5 Amps. With the old incandescents, there would be 12 (yellowish) bulbs (6 double-bulb fixtures) burning here instead, drawing a full 17 Amps! And trust me, it would not be as bright, even with that many bulbs turned on!
The result is that I can now use fewer lights/fixtures as before, and still have more light, at a fraction of the current.