RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 346 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 18  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: plastic radiator crack, Burb

One part of why my Sub has 180*F thermostat, Severe duty fan clutch, synthetics in everything and flush American Green Coolant on a two year cycle Keeps it cooler than stock, but high enough to pass SMOG and get power mode most of the time Careful on replacements. Make sure it is the same or better level. 'El Cheapo' has some with less rows, less numbers of tubes per row, less fins per tube, etc. Not as critical for a 5.7L small block vs the big block, which needs all the help in cooling it can get Another careful is to blow out the engine oil and ATF coolers inside the radiator. Engine oil cooler is in the hot tank of the main radiator. ATF oil cooler is in the cold tank of the main radiator
BenK 02/20/18 01:56pm Tow Vehicles
RE: FYI: what all those letters mean

Those dots have been around since college days when working to pay for that schooling...Tire Monkey, Mechanic, Welder, part time designer/draftsman, etc, etc No American tire OEM...just Eropean OEMs had them because American OEMs didn't have metric, nor VR rated, IIRC There are several colors these days....back then...just yellow
BenK 02/20/18 01:50pm Tow Vehicles
RE: I'm having trouble unhitching receiver from ball

Also....gotta get the flat spot on top of the ball to align with the dome top portion that allows the ball to back out of the dome capture area. This includes making sure the setup is level so that the ball’s flat spot top will be allowed to move backwards. If the ball/coupler is at the ‘high’ spot of the ‘v’, then no amount of force can move the ball backwards...as the coupler dome won’t allow it The latch assembly is an area checked, lubed at the beginning of EACH trip. And grease the ball lightly with regular greases gun grease. HITCH WON'T RELEASE. Good to hear the OP has solved this and add for others and future reference Below quote from an old comment and add... Backing up moves the ball out of the front coupler hemisphere ...where it goes below the ball equator to keep the ball from moving down and out The rear portion of the coupler dome has nothing to hole the ball except for the latch pawl. Undoing the latch removes that interference to allow the ball to move backwards. Again, why backing up with the trailer tires blocked and unlatched allows the ball to come out of the front couple dome This image shows one type of latch, but they all (most) look like this https://i.imgur.com/VHjCK5nl.gif width=640 This image is of the flat stop on top of most balls and is to allow the ball to move rear wards, out of the coupler dome capture area https://i.imgur.com/FqNDPRFl.jpg width=640 HITCH BALL STUCK IN TRAILER TOUNGE Posted: 12/09/10 07:27pm I've had a few experiences with this on various trailers. First, you know how 'most' couplers work? That might help understand how/why it is stuck The forward portion of the coupler (towards the TV) is 'cupped' with the bottom end of the 'round' complete enough to go 'underneath' the ball's lower hemisphere Meaning it won't allow the coupler to move up and off of the ball. The latch has a 'tang' or 'pawl' that goes underneath the rear of the ball. This 'tang' or 'pawl' is most likely stuck and/or the ball is still 'up' against the couple's 'cup' The latch should have an adjustment to tighten or loosen that 'tang'/'pawl'. If you haven't, try squirting some sort of frozen bolt whatever into that. Finally, I'd just take the balls nut off and then work on it
BenK 02/19/18 06:09pm Towing
RE: Towing with a 99 GMC Suburban 7.4L

OP...hope you don't mind this kind of stuff...research for my rebuild and of great enjoyment... A 1,000 HP 4L80E with a 3 year warranty is around $3K-$4K and in the same ball park as a standard 4L80E rebuild Gear Vendors is around $3K plus install. Begets an 8 speed 4L80E Currently have 4.1's (10.17 first and 3.08 OD 4th) and noodling 4.88's to have a 12.1 first gear and a 2.85 double OD 8th gear.Compare that to the 4L60E that everyone says has a better first gear over a 4L80E... A for sure thing on my have to have list for the rebuild https://i.imgur.com/deMUrhpl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image.
BenK 02/16/18 02:25pm Tow Vehicles
RE: dino oil vs synthetic mpg

First quart of synthetic back in the 70's cost more than my hourly rate...ever since have only used synthetic. Careful on racing synthetic, as they do NOT have the additive package as street synthetic. As racing has them changing it way sooner that a street setup is expected to change oil MPG only makes a difference on small displacement ICEs...larger has any gain lost in pumping losses Personal preference is mainly in higher specifications. Higher film strength, higher temp range, higher shear strength (similar to film strength). Also not into longer change intervals. Cheap vs a mechanical issue/failure due to engine oil based whatever Go with the best engine oil filters too
BenK 02/16/18 09:51am Tow Vehicles
RE: Towing with a 99 GMC Suburban 7.4L

IIRC these numbers, but should be close enough for discussion... Our Vette with a L88 (big block 427) we ran on track days back in the late 60's had (great discussion and disagreements) 550 Ft/Lbs and 530 HP at around 5K RPMs. To run at that level required 103 Octane. Sold out of that partnership, as knew I'd kill myself in it. Bought into that partnership when it had a small block 327 (such a sweet setup and one of my best engine builds) and they talked me into funding the L88...but...that body was NOT built for that kind of engine...first time nailed it wanting "to go this'a way" and "it went that'a way"...said it was going to kill me one day if did't get out of that partnership... My L21 (big block 7.4L) is around 410 Ft/Lbs (1,800 RPMs and up) and 290 HP. Red line is dashed from around 4,300 RPM and solid at 4,800 RPM. Power drops off at around 3,800 RPMs so not much to gain above that except for HP The L18 (8.1 big block) is around 450 Ft/Lbs and 330 HP. Now with +168K miles of extreme usage (worst was towing a 8.5K + trailer from sea level up to Lake Tahoe..often and WOT keeping up with the others with newer TVs) and just plain fun boy racer used as a car...could smoke the rear's anytime AFTER figuring out that the computer denied power mode when it got over 200*F. Today, it no longer has the juice to smoke'm, but does run strong in reference to just car boy racer stuff. Towing (sold the boat and just borrow trailers from church members) really shows that it has lost a few pony's...and the why noodling a crate (dropping that, but will continue to search as a just in case) or rebuilding. Target is L88 levels or more on 87 to 9X Octane (cam, valve train, tune, etc) and still pass Calif SMOG...maybe a turbo installed in back for altitude towing...throttle lag isn't a problem there...and a maybe brake launch when testosterone kicks in... To the OP, there are lots of other stuff forgotten and will noodle to post. Fun stuff for me... On my second steering box. First had to be tightened often till it started to leak. Since you say 'farm' am noting this...as used to off road much more and used the front tires to move stones out'a the way... There is an adjusting set screw on top of the steering box and locked in with a jam nut. Careful, as you can ruin the box by over tightening. I'll dig up the old thread posted on HOW2, but it has Photobucket pics...which won't work and have to find original pic's to post
BenK 02/16/18 09:23am Tow Vehicles
RE: Towing with a 99 GMC Suburban 7.4L

It will do it, albeit since older, a bit slower up the steeps Waiting for mine to die or wear to the point just have to rebuild... :B Will keep mine for a long while. Hate payments, can afford to buy one out right, but their prices are insane to me. It is a truck to me, not a car. Know that trucks are designed with margins for work, not like cars... I have 4.1's and suggest you consider it if it doesn't have it now Flush EVERYTHING with synthetic. Mine has been on synthetic's since new and MolyB (2 micron) additive in everything except except for the 4L80E and Diff (anything with clutches will be ruined with such a low co-efficient friction modifier). Make sure power steering (also is the power brake source) and MC (DOT4, non-silicone) Change out the engine thermostat to a 180* and I've drilled a 3/32" dia hole in the flange...as the tiny <1/64" dia OEM hole is too small and temp over shots when really, really hot) Change out the fan clutch to a 'SEVERE' duty. OEM is 'standard' and some have found to have a 'HD'. HD and severe duty fan clutch of that era couples up to 90% of shaft RPMs. Standard best is around 50%-60% shaft RPMs are coupled. Also, since so much is coupled...the bearings are beefier and SEVERE duty has the biggest bearings. It will ROAR when it kicks in and surprised me the first time. Can see the dash temp gauge needle drop like a rock when it kicks in Know other TV's computers have backed off via their torque management and mine still provides 'Power Mode' when they start to slow...of course naturally aspired...forced fed has that advantage and if they have a good cooling system with lots of margin... Also, mine handles...more so compared to newer which are so tall because the fashion statement crowd thinks taller is more capable...my track is +10.5" wider than stock to boot, so cornering is something different... Make sure the radiator has the 'short' neck and is in good order. The 'short' neck has the 7 fin ATF, in tank, radiator (liquid to liquid). Depending where it has been parked/kept/etc...leaf & debris build up between the AC and radiator partially blocks air flow. Creates mystery heating/cooling issues. I blow mine out with 100 PSI air every so often Duct tape the intake holes on the engine bay side of the air ducting to the filter box. I've made my own ram, cold air intake that is in parallel to the OEM intake routing. Keeping the intake charge important to always have power mode available. Change out the air filter with the OEM optional "HD" and just drops into the OEM filter box. It is about 2" larger in dia. Read diff is the EXACT same as the 1 ton dually of that year...except for the cylinder and MC (dia's are larger and DO NOT lose the short rod between the MC and booster...almost impossible to replace and is a junk yard thing) and change them to that 1 ton dually Check if you have the 3.5" wide rear shoes...those are the same as the 1 ton dually...mine came that way and why parts folks always ask how wide your rear shoes are....no matter what Manually adjust the rear shoes often, as the proportioning valve is off....not sending enough to the rears. Decided to NOT touch that and just manually adjust them Pulling is common and is due to the rears not in the braking game...in a pinch...apply the E-Brake pedal a bit to move the shoes into the game I like Praise Dyno, but the GM Parts "Dura Stop" rear shoes almost as good to provide "Nose Bleed Braking" Super Tune the fronts...as the slides stick...I've made a special grease gun with a hypo needle to poke in high temp brake grease (filled with MOLYB)...and make sure to change out the slide O-Rings Spark Plugs...have modified with by 'cutting back' the ground electrode SS WIRE ignition RF suppressed wires...I like copper over Platinum plugs and change them around 50K miles or so Copper inserts on the dist cap::Gater Back serpentine belt Change the Serpentine tensioner...they typically last in the 60K miles or so for me NOTE that the newer TVs, not just GM but most all, has "Torque Management" and this era Suburban does NOT, so it runs with that pack well, or at least mine does...to even taking them when "The Boy Racer" kicks in when challenged by another Boy Racer... Know that there are most things forgotten and will noodle that for a while... Plans for the day that, gosh darn, just have to rebuild... A 'built' engine that will pass 1996 SMOG, I live in SF Bayarea1,000 HP 4L80E, but only going to use less than half depending on what the engine builder can do and still pass SMOG...so it will last a looooong time...these 1K HP unites are warrantied for 3 years, so going to lastA gear spliter OD with a 0.75 OD ratio...gear spliter, so it will insert itself in-between each gear to make 8 gears...times 2 in LOWNew diff ratio in the 4.8 or maybe 5.x for a final double OD to the axles in the 2.x range All of the Internet searches finds +500 HP 454's, but are for carberators...no good ones found to date for a Vortec...yet...or will bite the bullet and have one built. Engine builder passed on and am looking right now Also, if it has the F60 option (check the glove box label listing all options it left the factory with) and you will have a 'Snow Plow' prep package that begets 1 ton front torsion springs. Since it comes with the 6,000 RGAWR as the 1 ton dually of the same year...tongue'n cheek refer mine as a K3500 Suburban... If me...I'd buy it and have two Sub's and make the choice of which one to be the parts one... https://i.imgur.com/gv4Y1wF.jpg mysub mysuburban
BenK 02/13/18 10:15pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Newbie: Towing TT w/ 2008 Toyota Sequoia

Kinda sorta agree...only on OEM level friction materials and OEM tune of the brakes... Also lost is that the larger dia wheels weigh more than smaller dia wheels. Ditto tires. Therefore centrifugal (fly wheel) loading hits smaller dia brakes Yes, larger dia brake disc has potentially higher braking power Key is both ability to skid the brakes...or with ABS...initiate ABS during the braking session...*and*...the ability to modulate the brakes within the ABS limits (not to allow the ABS to kick in) NONE of my vehicles have OEM level friction material. Nor do they have OEM tune. They are all performance level and my super tune. Plus other modifications that increases both braking power and ability to modulate the braking sesion Other components are: the tires, wheels, shocks, and suspension that all play together during any braking session Mine begets ABS almost any time and also allows modulation to NOT get into an ABS session. To that point...out braked a 5 series BMW and he rear ended my Suburban Below is an image found years ago and is of what am talking about. First FMVSS has MAXIMUM stopping distances for cars, buses, semi's, etc Bendix marketing showing how just changing friction material can reduce stopping distance and is of what am talking about https://i.imgur.com/NZsYHWUl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image.
BenK 02/04/18 03:14pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tesla Semi truck unveil & test ride set for Oct 26th !

Mercedes revealed plans to conquer electric cars — Tesla should be nervous https://i.imgur.com/BM3rSGsl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image The looming rivalry between Tesla and Mercedes-Benz took a giant step forward. On Monday, Mercedes outlined how it plans to challenge Tesla as the premier luxury electric car brand. In a press release posted to the website of its parent company, Daimler, Mercedes said it will produce electric vehicles in six plants across three continents. The brand also said it will create a "global battery network" to produce batteries for its vehicles. It currently has five battery factories and plans to complete a sixth in 2018. Daimler had previously announced that it would invest $11 billion to make sure each Mercedes-Benz vehicle would have a fully-electric or hybrid version by 2022, which signaled that the brand would take a more aggressive approach to producing electric cars than many of its competitors. The brand plans to launch its electric EQ brand with the fully-electric EQC SUV, which is set for production in 2019. Mercedes is serious about electric cars While other brands have announced ambitious plans related to electric vehicles, Mercedes' intention to build its own batteries signals the brand's seriousness in becoming a major player in the electric market. Tesla's battery business is one of the company's greatest strengths. Since 2013, the company has been building out its giant battery factory in Nevada, known as the Gigafactory 1, where it makes the batteries for its vehicles and the batteries for its Powerwall and Powerpack. Tesla's early investment in battery production has long been called one of its greatest advantages because it put the company ahead of competitors also pursuing electric cars. The fact that Mercedes is doubling down on battery factories shows that the company is going after the heart of Tesla's business. What's more, Mercedes has almost 100 years of experience making cars, while Tesla has less than 20. So it's possible the German automaker will simply outproduce Tesla in EVs. Afterall, Mercedes delivered 2.3 million cars in 2017, while Tesla delivered just 101,000.
BenK 02/03/18 10:52am Tow Vehicles
RE: Expectations for Towing with Toyota Highlander XLE AWD

The Highlander is a CUV First gen was based on the Camery Second and later gen is based on the Sienna Mini Van Just think of towing with a Camery if 1st Gen, and towing with a Sienna Mini Van if newer Both monocoque/unibody, so WD Hitch system is normally no recommended (understand any OEM's 'recommendation' means no warranty if you do NOT follow their 'recommendation') As Barney said, check your configuration and note that the MTWR is *NOT* an absolute. Meaning it depends on the configuration and loading of the TV. Again, check your glove box manual...as their should be an info page on towing listing the REDUCTION in MTWR with each passenger loaded into the TV
BenK 02/03/18 10:45am Towing
RE: GM 6.2L Gas Engine for pulling?

Toni...have you measured a Sub vs your Sierra's length? Looks like you have the short bed and that is about the same as a Sub of that year. Look at where the rear passenger door edge is to the bumper vs my Sub pictured below...about the same Remember, a half ton and 3/4 ton Sub are the exact same length. Just taller for the 3/4 ton because of the higher rated stuff below the body sheetmetal... Fleet service has a 3500 Suburban and they are hitting the used market now My K3500 Suburban (tongue n cheek...cuz the 6K RGAWR is the exact same axle as the dually of that year {upgraded the MC & cylinders to the 1 ton dually}...and AAM rates it at 10,000 GAWR...ordered the F60 option, which begets the snow plow prep and 1 ton front springs) https://i.imgur.com/gv4Y1wFl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image mysub mysuburban
BenK 02/02/18 02:45pm Tow Vehicles
RE: GM 6.2L Gas Engine for pulling?

X3... Most all full sized pickups and SUV's ranging from half ton to higher class most all use the exact same body basis with a few add on accent stuff to make it look bigger Therefore the general confusion on that. Plus half ton's these days are more fake 3/4 ton than the older 6K GVWR half tons Taller, yes and a few local kids & one guy that must be in his 50's (still 20 years younger...as am going to be 70 this year) think and always tell me that their 'half ton' cars (not trucks...as they really are) are more capable than my lower 8.6K GVWR & 6K RGAWR Suburban... They can't go into the local parking structures, where as I can...they can't keep up on long, sweeping highway overhead curves either. Because their CG is way higher & my track is +10.5 inches wider than stock. But...this is the fat part of the bell curve that OEMs base their sales on...the fashion statement crowd...and rightly so, as it is a business to make money And the creature comforts without the big size that comes with 3/4 and 1 ton. I always scratch my head at the above? Big size where. 1500 or 2500 or 3500 in the same cab/bed, is the exact same wheelbase, width, and overall length. The 2500/3500 usually has a slightly larger turning radius due to the suspension. Overall height is a few inches higher as is ground clearance, but it's basically the same size as the body panels are exactly the same....at least with GM. Bigger springs, brakes, axles, driveshafts, u joints, and a whole host of other things too, but thats not exactly a bad thing? I have never been able to grasp the bigger thing on boards. Hell I've seldom been able to digest a truck thread lol. Ditto. My Ram actually turns quite a bit tighter than a same year/configuration F150. Taller is the only dimension that could come into play in a low parking garage situation. Beyond that HD trucks are heavier but they aren't any "bigger" in dimensions. I personally think HD trucks are a better value proposition than half tons because they don't cost materially more so the additional capability is basically free. But they also don't incur the downsides of living with a dually, so to me they're the sweet spot. YMMV.
BenK 02/02/18 08:51am Tow Vehicles
RE: Wire Size

Wire current rating is NOT absolute...like the max tow weight rating of a TV There are several conditions: free air (there are specs as to what “free air” temp is at...not what is in an engine bay), or three conductors in a cable tray, Etc... Then the insulation ratin, both in amperes and at some temp. Like load rating of a tire This has to do with the wires ability to reject heat. Suggest going with a min of 12 gauge, multi stranded, MTW. THNN would be better. Connections also play and recommend ring lugs, torqued to spec.
BenK 02/01/18 08:55pm Tow Vehicles
RE: GM 6.2L Gas Engine for pulling?

The 6.2L is a GREAT hot rod ‘car’ engine...but it is currently NOT offered by GM in any +8k GVWR Class TV. Am referring to the aluminum block...or is there an iron block coming ? You are about to drop down in TV class...GVWR by about 1,xxx.... 2,000 lbs...or more Check out the RGAWR between what you have now vs any of the GM full sized half ton TV’s. With a PIN of 1,410 lbs...most half ton’s will run out of RGAWR....especially if you will be loading close to the payload rating Nothing wrong with either the Aluminum 6.2L or half ton’s...just know that you are down sizing TV...and hope your trailer is within that new TV’s ratings
BenK 01/30/18 01:24pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Trailer Tires: High Quality 16's vs. Swapping to 17.5's

As you go up in tire class, just like TV classes, the tires of the same OEM/model/size will weigh more. Because they are made differently and are rated to carry more weight If anyone has ever cut apart tires like I did while working through college (part time tire monkey, welder, mechanic, designer, etc). You'd have found that ST, Passenger & LT class tires has a safety bead on both the tire and wheel. Commercial class tires do NOT have a safety bead. Commercial class tire side walls are thicker than the lower class. ST, P, and LT class sidewalls are in fractions of an inch thick. Commercial class sidewalls are normally over an inch thick. Why said do NOT air down commercial class. Been there, done that...even after working in a high end tire shop for years...lost the seal on all four while aired down crossing a river bed up in the Idaho Panhandle...took me almost two days to hike out and another day finding someone who would drive me back up with the stuff to re-seat & air up Suggest reading up and this is a good starting point: RMA, Replacement Guidelines for Passenger and Light Truck Tires
BenK 01/27/18 12:59pm Towing
RE: Tesla Semi truck unveil & test ride set for Oct 26th !

Battery Technology is still not ready for a semi level...nor TV level...at this time It is just barely ready for passenger level...just look at the yearly changes (significant changes)....and the previous post on the many different charge plugs. IMHO, the batteries for. Semi level truck would require several times larger battery assemblies than those passenger cars currently use. Then ask what form factor they are going to use...vs the AA batteries currently employed (am told that is the current form factor) Reminds of the form factor used by Zero Motorcycle. Liked theirs, but it was too small in volumes to make a difference in the market. Local company and knew their CEO and reviewed many of their technologies a few years ago Tesla’s GigaFactory continues to be a throttle for Model 3 shipments....they were still hand assembling them and only recently moved into full robotic assembly according to this artical: MotorTrend article...Bottlenecks" may be more significant than previously thought Long before the new Tesla Model 3 began rolling off the assembly line, CEO Elon Musk made it clear that producing its first mass-market vehicle would be a challenge. He even went so far as to say that the first stage would be “production hell.” But while Musk also claimed production would ramp up rapidly, by the end of 2017, Model 3s were still being built at a much lower rate than previously promised. If the latest report is accurate, that’s at least partly because the Gigafactory that we previously toured is having problems meeting battery demand. However, Tesla firmly refutes many of the claims made in the story. CNBC reports that according to several current and former Tesla employees, battery production issues were significantly worse than had been previously reported. Those problems allegedly included both building some of the batteries by hand and borrowing workers from Panasonic to help out. At the end of Q3, Tesla put some of the blame for lower-than-expected Model 3 production on the Gigafactory but didn’t elaborate on what was specifically causing the delays. If CNBC‘s sources are correct, while the Model 3 factory continues to ramp up production, it will be a while before Tesla can build batteries quickly enough to meet demand. ...snip...click on link to see the whole article Confirms to me...that their whole production processes (in all of their biz groups...cars, battery, space, HSR, etc) are NOT mature enough for these volumes. Hope their bank account has enough to buy enough time for them to mature there businesses before they are forced to scale back many of these stuck in R&D levels of production. Talking to folks working in Fremont...informs of poor training and worst yet...they have to use their personal tools on the line....
BenK 01/26/18 06:18pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Trailer Tires: High Quality 16's vs. Swapping to 17.5's

Going from class ST to commercial class tires is moving up about 2-3 rungs in tire class Know that most all commercial class tires (0.5" dia's) do NOT have a safety bead like the lower class tires. Meaning that you must keep them aired up, as the tapered bead will come off the rim if too low in PSI during side loadings Personally, do NOT like ST class tires and my trailers all had them replaced with LT class tires Plus, ST class tires are mostly rated for a max of 65 MPH. There are some special ST's that are rated a bit higher in speed, but not many
BenK 01/26/18 03:53pm Towing
RE: New Equal-I-Zer Hitch Issue

Buddy GMW...no problem...because know you well enough to trust that you are okay and know of what you are doing But, those who I don't know well enough...I'll stay conservative and advise to stick to the OEM's specifications...especially newbies... Even at full OEM spec...they sometimes do work loose, so this is not a tighten it and forget it type of thing Even the horse trailer shop (they both make them and service them) in my area where I bought a 10,000 lb rated ball/shank didn't have a torque wrench that was rated for 450 ft/lbs...after they searched the whole shop and everyone's tool box...finally said how about this 3/4" impact air gun... Their sales guy said okay when made it a requirement to mount the ball on that shank & torqued to the label's 500 ft/lbs as part of the deal Looked at the guns label and it said 500 ft/lbs at 120 PSI...so okay'd them to use that.
BenK 01/26/18 03:44pm Towing
RE: New Equal-I-Zer Hitch Issue

Most auto supply and/or rental shops has both the socket set and torque wrench that is rented by the hour or day My ball tag said 450 ft/lbs. it has a nut and split lock washer. Please have it torqued properly, as this is a safety thing....IMHO
BenK 01/25/18 06:13pm Towing
RE: Newbie: Towing TT w/ 2008 Toyota Sequoia

IMHO, best to use the OEM’s info...instead of a non-OEM source...which has a copy/data-entry mistake potential. I’ve found too many issues from 2nd/3rd party sources Toyota 2008 Sequia brochure Only missing info seems to be GAWR’s As most have advised...load up ready to go RV’ing and weigh it axle by axle Then do the simple math....generic formula to figure : GCWR >= TV + Trailer+ stuff (actual weights) RGAWR is needed to check if enough “R” vs what it will be asked to handle Most half ton’s RGAWR are in the +4K range. Higher class TV’s are in the +6K range. Most weight goes on the rear axle...just take a side view most TV’’’s.....mid point between front axles is at the read edge of the drivers door Decide if you, the OP, believes in the ratings system or not If yes, gather the specifications and follow them If not, then academic this thread... If just looking for the “sure you can”....then you the OP have it, but know only one person is responsible for the setup and that is the driver....none of us advisers have any skin in your game
BenK 01/17/18 10:21am Tow Vehicles
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 18  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2018 CWI, Inc. © 2018 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS