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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 338 matches.

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RE: Correct Coolant for 2012 Ford 6.7L Diesel

Science is what makes this a tough nut GM's coolant is an OAT's formulation, Ford coolant is a HOAT's formulation and didn't look up what RAM's were during the switch from good old American Green. Almost lost my 7.4L during that educational discovery period. While flushing with DexCool and still couldn't stop from over heating. Did discover that fan clutches comes in three levels of performance and will only use Severe Duty for my trucks O = Organic A = Acid T = Technology H = Hybrid These 'new', compared to American Green, has a different process on how it works in any ICE. Final result (as planned) has a protective coating over surfaces. Difference is some sort of organic material vs American Green's silicates (think of microscopic roofing tiles laid down over the surface) Flush.American Green has no acid in it's formulation and required a separate or addition of an acid to etch the surface clean. Regular flush has a mild acid added during that flush. Harsh and very strong acid kits were for severe corrosion removal Rinse the acid out and refill with American Green. Complete protective coating (assuming the acid etch cleaned off the corrosion) took about 200 miles to complete that cycle OATs and HOATs has that acid built into it's formulation and is part of the way it works OATs and HOATs takes several thousand miles to complete the protective coating cycle There is are several 'buts' to OATs and HOATs... That acid etches the surfaces and the organic then lays down a protective coating...but...there is no rinse cycle to remove that etched off corrosion. So there is metal oxide floating in there for 5 years. The assumption is that the remaining acid and organic floating around will re-etch and re-coat any spot that loses the original organic coating... But...that now has a chemical brew floating around in all of the coolant. Okay if the closed system is kept closed (they why new systems no longer...not all, but most...no longer have a 'radiator cap'...to check either look through the over flow (it is NOT an over flow anymore, but pressurized holding tank) bottle material, or risk opening that bottle/radiator cap to check) and explanation below Acid, organic and now etched off metal oxide floating in the coolant will have it heated to be more reactive to whatever comes along. If kept closed...not much going to happen as spec'd out...but...if O2 gets in there...like when you open it up to check or the biggie...a system containment break (AKA leak) develops...O2 will get into this highly reactive brew... That will have the O2 react with the metal oxide and the organic. That then turns into a highly acidic & STICKY glob during a cooling down phase...like when the radiator does its job But...that is in the radiator tubes, which is considerable smaller in cross sectional area. So these acidic and sticky globs form...they stick to whatever. Mostly in the radiator tubes, but not just there. Some make it out of the radiator and into the rest of the cooling system. Like the heater core and backwater areas in the ICE, etc... This happens over time and will work (eat) its corrosive magic on whatever it is sticking to. If rubber...it will take much longer than if it stuck to metal... That is why OATs and HOATs systems will warn to NOT mix them...especially with American Green. But to then flush every 2 years instead of the 5 years... I've switched my 1996 Suburban's 7.4L to American Green after figuring that out. Someone posted a link to my radiator shop's web site. DeathCool is what we all DexCool... Previous radiator shop guy went to high school with retired after about 6 years of DeathCool appearance. He had about 6 times uptick in business from the day his father gave him that business...mainly from local dealers... Is this just a Ford thing or other diesels as picky?
BenK 04/26/18 11:18am Tow Vehicles
RE: 1500 vs 2500

snip... Define "wallowing" and "fully loaded". My half ton admittedly came with a very forgiving suspension. It's soft. Rides great empty. REALLY great empty. It does squat under load. But there is NO WALLOWING. It remains right where it's supposed to with no wagging or other squirming. It's simply squatting. snip.... Will try to explain...but...it is like trying to explain sex to a virgin... 'P' class tires the OEM's outfit all of their 'half ton' (except for the fake half ton, which has higher class tires) with 'P' class tires. Higher class TV's has 'LT' class tires and many recommend going that way for half tons...noodle the why of that after reading the below... Passenger tires and RMA recommends (really a mandate) that whenever 'P' class tires are mounted on full sized pickup trucks (SUV's derived from pickups too)...they must be de-rated a mine of 9% in their weight carry rating. That has 'ride quality' high on the 'have to have' list for most half ton owners. With that 'ride quality' those 'P' class tires will 'roll over' during hard cornering/maneuvering....or when loaded close to, at or over their weight rating...That is the main cause of that 'wallowing' am referring to Other issue (there are more, but will keep it simple here) is that the slip angle is typically higher on a narrow rim width. Of which most OEMs choose to do...except for their 'performance' optioned Pickup/SUV. This part of that 'wallowing' thing. A fast left/right/left/right type of maneuver will have those 'P' class tires not keep up...PLUS rolling over the sidewalls...but mushy response (wallowing) The lower rated springs (mainly rear axle) will be "soft" and allow the vehicle to move around (another wallowing thing). Part of the half ton'er complaint of harsh ride quality on higher class TVs My 1980 half ton Silverado wallows a bit with 33/12.5R15LT load range C tires. KYB MonoMax shocks. 1 ton coil helper springs. It wallows when loaded up with firewood, woodpellets, dirt, gravel, sod, etc...but not as much before all of those 'upgrades' were made. Dad's very small grocery/butcher shop truck and he didn't want anything to do with reducing the ride quality...but...allowed those 1 ton coil helpers...as the guys (brother & stock clerks) working there always loaded it up (down to the bump stops) when going to the produce market, slaughter house, etc
BenK 04/24/18 12:23pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Back in a Ram soon

Good to hear and congrat's on that find ! Looking forward to your commentary on how it goes getting the new TV up to snuff
BenK 04/23/18 03:00pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 1500 vs 2500

Plus...the OP's trailer in consideration is a less than 10% dry tongue weight, which IMHO, will NOT tow well when fully loaded (both TV & trailer). Worse yet in a Mr Murphy situation
BenK 04/23/18 02:54pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 1500 vs 2500

snip... And for the uninformed there is a WORLD OF DIFFERENCE in the ride between a new 1500 and 2500. But...that wallowing and uncontrolled feeling when fully loaded is nothing I like...my personal preference... Yes, have driven all three 2018 half tons. Both empty and fully loaded while helping folks dial in their setups
BenK 04/23/18 02:51pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Sweet spot for 4.10 gears

I've got the bullet proof vest on, shields up and ready. If this has been asked countless times before, I apologize in advance. What is the sweet spot for towing if truck has 4.10 gears and diesel? Test drove a '17 F350 that had 'em and at 60 mph, rom's were around 1850+/-. 70 mph = around 2150 +/-. Obviously compared to 3.55 gears about 300 rpm's more on both accounts. Depends on the rest of the system... Mainly what the ICE's torque/HP curve looks like and what you plan to do...from cruise empty with just you, the driver...or towing heavy up the steeps...finally at what speed you wish to travel in the above conditions Here is a Ford 6.0L torque/HP curve as an example...If me, I'd run between 1,500 RPMs and 2,500 RPMs...but this engine (in good condition) can go higher...or lower https://i.imgur.com/Ew1v2Qfl.jpg Personal preferences Here is one for a GM 8.1L gasser and I'd tow at between 1,500 RPMs and 2,500 RPMs https://i.imgur.com/6eps3uGl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image.
BenK 04/20/18 05:52pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Ford F150 is going Powerstroke Diesel

Not apples to apples when comparing gasoline vs diesel 'normally' gasoline has around 114,000 BTU's per US gallon. Diesel has around 129,000 BTU's per US gallon So about a 1.13 factor. Meaning take the diesel MPG and divide it by 1.13 to get the equivalent or normalized MPG...AKA apples compared to apples Never the less, diesel has more energy per unit measure over gasoline, so it should have higher MPG's per US Gallon The other factor is that diesel ICE's have a much higher compression ratio. That factors large...as the bottom line is PSI on the piston top that produces torque...therefore HP ON that, gasoline will detonate at those higher compression ratios. Just the laws of physics....unless you can get a gasoline ICE to employ diesel levels of compression ratio without detonation... Too bad work on GDCI development has slowed...though there are still some corporations still working on it. First, gotta say am not a diesel person. Never have been...except for a serious period looking into diesel during the late 90's and into the early 2000's. One buddy smoked us all with his 7.3L Ford Excursion...to find he had a tune and propane injection... Saw the SMOG freight train coming and decided to stick to gasoline, my favorite, but started gathering info on diesel Saw the patents being filed and how onerous the testing/certification must be...because of all of that stuff being patented. Mainly the +20,000 PSI injection systems and that electronic chips were stacked in series, INSIDE THE INJECTOR, to be able to pulse/spray fast enough during ONE combustion cycle. Knew those injectors were not going to last very long...though they do last longer than thought...and the why they cost so much. Silicone Chips inside a tube pushing AGAINST +20,000 PSI fluid to open the valve to inject into the combustion chamber *AND* slammed shut by that 20,000 PSI flow when they are turned off to close that flow...holy cow !!! GDCI (Gasoline DirectInjection Compression Ignition...no spark plug...ignition just like diesel), but with more gasoline attributes Delphi paper on GDCI Biggie for me...there is a potential to bring back big blocks using GDCI !!!!
BenK 04/20/18 10:42am Tow Vehicles
RE: 5th wheel for Tundra

Hey Mathew...wondering how many go out and swallow swords down to the hilt...after...seeing someone do that... :B :E :S
BenK 04/18/18 01:28pm Towing
RE: gear ratios

Oh forgot...my 7.4L's 410 ft/lbs starts at about 1,400 RPMs and flat till about 3,800 RPN's. So it should be able to hold 65MPH in double OD when used as a car. I seldom tow in OD in the hills. Sometimes on the flats, at sea level, but not often. MPG is NOT on my have to have list...just nice to have Shooting for +500 Ft/Lbs on the rebuild and still pass SMOG. More HP if can find the valve train that will allow higher RPMs
BenK 04/18/18 01:22pm Tow Vehicles
RE: gear ratios

Similar to my nooddling plans for my 1996 7.4L K3500 Suburban. Stock is 4.1's and noodling going to something north of 4.56's. Currently think 4.88's will be it, but can't find enough info on that config's strength. IIRC, the pinion might be too small (both face sq/in and tooth root section...cantilever strength) First, gear boxes are for a change in direction and/or torque multiplication (some times just a change in RPMs) Here are the listed ratios for my 4L80E: Gear Ratio First 2.48 Second 1.48 Third 1.00 Fourth 0.75 Here is just one link to a +1,000 HP 4L80E and cost is similar to a plain Jane rebuild locally vs the 750HP version. The +1,500HP version just a couple thousand more...all warranted Stage 2 – Warranted 750 HP...Stage 5 - Warranted +1,500HP The Gear Venders OD noodling and is whether an 0.7 or 0.5 ratio that will split (insert itself) between each 4L80E gear. That would turn my 4L80E into an EIGHT forward gearbox and if you count the XfrCase...16 forward gear ratios...and...a lower 1st gear ratio than the 4L60E...AND...a similar to potentially higher OD final... Here are the resultant gear ratios https://i.imgur.com/gV8FsJgl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. Then switch from LT265/75R16E's to LT255/85R16E's for a LOWER rev's per mile and still not lose much in width...just 10mm, or 5mm each side of rim center. Toughest part is finding a HO crate 7.4L that will pass SMOG. Most found to date are offroad and/or carberator. No Vortec to be found. The guy who built the L88 for my Vette has passed on and no one even understands what an L88 was/is... Sure an L88 was a hot rod engine, but most of it can be for a TV...all in the cam... https://i.imgur.com/KMcSLe9l.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image.
BenK 04/18/18 01:00pm Tow Vehicles
RE: The confounding 3/4 ton truck...

I don't need the 2014 Ford Fleet Specs, I have the more up to date 2017 and 2018 specs. But the whole point (which apparently needs repeating), all of the payload doesn't go on the rear axle. Correct...not *ALL*...but...*MOST* of it does go on most all TV's rear axle. This is one thread on that topic...take side view of any TV...mid point between the wheel base is the generally the rear edge of the drivers door... Another can my truck pull this thread... Agree with Jimnlin...most all TV's loading on the vehicle is behind the mid point of the wheel base. Normally behind the driver door's rear edge, but the OP has a crew, so an extra row of seats...here is an Internet pic just found of a 2018 F150 Crew 4x4 https://photos7.motorcar.com/new-2018-ford-f~150-xlt4wdsupercrew55box-6035-16750712-4-1024.jpg width=640 Notice that the second row is BEHIND the mid point of this teeter-totter weighting of 'this' TV...most of the added, onboard weight will be on the rear axle side of that teeter-totter mid point Yes, the WD Hitch system does WD some of the weight back onto the trailer tongue and to the TV's front axle, but the majority of that weight remains on the TV's rear axle Why higher class TV's all have +6K RGVWR...it for that reason...most of the weight on most any TV is carried on the rear axle assembly Congratulate this OP, as *ALL* of the folks have come across who lease their TV's DO NOT take care to check out the weights...they just load up and drive it...as they know they will NOT suffer the longevity issues with overloading...knowing only the next owner(s) will or might suffer their consumption of the design margins...
BenK 04/18/18 12:35pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Overwhelmed and worried about safety

Many things contribute to the actual tongue weight Highest contributor is the architecture of the trailer. Toyhaulers have huge tongue weights when empty or their 'dry' weight. Because they are designed to carry very heavy stuff in the garage in back. Many times ATVs, golf carts, motor cycles, etc that counter that teeter-tooter weight. Pivot point is normally around the center of the axle(s) Then some are designed for the highest possible 'towable' weight for marketing to newbies...heck even old folks who just believe blindly on the brochure number. These are usually listed with 10% tongue of the dry weight On that, their 'dry' weight tongue weight is a way to tell what their loaded tongue weight will/might be. Few will advertise a tongue weight higher than about 12%, as they want the half ton folks to bite Then the way it is loaded. Even how much water, as some have the water tanks forward of the axle center line(s). Plus the optional, bolted on stuff. Like Propane tanks...some upgrade to very large tanks. My preference and recommendation is to keep it over 12%, but this OP has a very small TV and assume a very small rear GAWR, to tongue weight will become an issue. To help understand that...look at the higher class TV's above half tons and note that they most all have +6,000 RGAWR's for this very reason This for hard sided trailers and why many advisors say hybrid or large PUPs. And repeat...get actual weights of every thing and if don't have the trailer...use it's GVWR info (use the dry tongue weight and do the math to project that percentage using the GVWR)
BenK 04/16/18 10:20am Towing
RE: Overwhelmed and worried about safety

Forgot to touch on the tongue weight questions It should be in the 12% to 15% of the trailers actual weight. Orientation should be level at it's highest pointing. Preference it to point slightly down below level The trailer will follow best with the above conditions.
BenK 04/15/18 10:55am Towing
RE: Bouncing on Concrete Roads

Add that trailers follow a smaller radius than the TV, so they often strike stuff the TV missed... Those strikes can setup weakened innards to fail later when they contribute to heating and/or finally break a cord...
BenK 04/15/18 10:41am Towing
RE: Overwhelmed and worried about safety

Welcome and hope you find the answers to your questions Here are some metrics & advice. Also suggest you read the previous posts from any advisor to get a sense of their stuff and if that stuff matches your values First, decide if you believe in the manufacturers (OEM) ratings...and...the ratings systems that all OEMs must provide. Which is their contract to the owner....meaning that the performance is based on the maximum they list on their ratings info...plus modifiers listed in fine print. If not, then do whatever or take the advice that best suits your values or what you want to hear...but, not to worry, as if you do believe in the ratings systems...gather these bits of information and learn how that system works. Boils down to doing a few things that seemingly the majority does not do... Load up your planned TV as if ready to go RV'ing and weigh it axle by axle. That will provide a baseline basis for the simple math that this generic formula will show were you would be GCWR >= TV + Trailer + WD Hitch + stuff loaded on/in both TV & trailer All actual weights. If you do not have the trailer, use it's GVWR as the basis for this. There will/are many who boohoo using the trailer GVWR, but that is the maximum the trailer is rated for that you would use to do the simple math. If under, then more safety margin All things designed/engineered is NOT for the good days out there when a riding lawn mower 'can' tow it...but for the bad day out there when Mr Murphy crosses your path. Either you have the proper sized everything...set it up properly...spot on...or not. If not, there will be no time to go back to the store for proper sized whatever...or re-setup This is performance is to the ratings maximum limit and is to manhandle the situation. Braking, accelerating, maneuvering, etc Here are the acronyms and what they mean. You should search them yourself to check the validity GVWR...Gross Vehicle Weight Rating...what the OEM rates as it's maximum weight down to the pavement. Goes for both the TV and TrailerGCWR...Gross Combined Weight Rating. Is what both the TV, Trailer and everything loaded in and on them. Weight down to the pavementFGAWR...Front Gross Axle Weight Rating...what the front axle of your TV is rated to carry down to the pavement...sizing of the suspension, brakes, etc are based on this number by the engineers...plus some corporate allowed safety marginRGAWR...Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating...same as the FGAWR, just for the rear axle. This is the biggie, as most of the weight carried by the TV while towing is on this axle. As the drivers rear door edge is normally in the middle of the TV's wheelbase (distance between front and rear axles)MTWR...Maximum Tow Weight Rating. Not a good one to use, but most all OEMs advertise this number...which is derived form a stripper model, that many times is NOT sold. Understand that is the only way of it, the OEMs can only guess what their customers will have as options, aftermarket stuff, and the big one...what they will load up in/on their TV Once you have weighed your TV fully loaded ready to go RV'ing plug that into the generic formula and go shopping. Look at the trailer's GVWR and plug that into the generic formula. Most are surprised at the result because they wanted to tow larger The frontal area of the trailer a huge component on top of the weight info above. Think of flying a kit...say a 4'x8' sheet of plywood with a rope tied to the tail of the TV. It would lift a normal weight person into the air. Or if you have ever held a full sheet of plywood on a windy day...it will/can knock a person down A TV must pull that in dead air and if a head wind...many times more effort (HP) will be required. Good luck and ask lots of questions
BenK 04/15/18 10:29am Towing
RE: FCA(Marchionne) says diesel is dead

All electric still does NOT have the duty cycle for towing...hybrid yes, but not all electric Battery size and cooling of both electric motor/batteries are the current issues
BenK 04/14/18 05:07pm Tow Vehicles
RE: What can I tow with my Suburban

Your half ton Suburban “can” tow any of those trailers...but...not rated for, nor safely (all things designed are not for the good days...but for the bad days...where you will need every ounce to manhandle the situation), nor as safely as the next higher class Suburban Minimum for your half ton...make sure it has the tow option (if not, then install the components that make up that tow option), upgrade to the next higher class tire...”LT” class (stock are “P” class...passenger class...vs “llight truck” class and change out the two diff gear sets (your 75% hills comment) Can forgo the diff ratios with a few trips with those 3.08s and know you will realize the why of lower diff ratio (higher numeric)folks have been r3commended. Plus a lower diff ratio will have greater grade ******. Suggest a min of a 3.73. There is no difference in cost between 3.73 vs 4.11
BenK 04/13/18 09:18pm Towing
RE: 2010 Yukon XL 3/4 ton vs 2007+ Tundra

8,600 lb GVWR (3/4 ton) vs a half ton’s ~7,xxx GVWR...they are NOT in the same weight class The biggie is the RGAWR...where a 3/4 ton will be in the 6,000 lb range vs than average half ton range of ~4,xxx lb range
BenK 04/12/18 08:34pm Tow Vehicles
RE: What can I tow with my Suburban

Forgot to touch on this... In my locality, the price for a new diff gear set (parts and labor) is around $1K per diff. Most important is the quality of both the parts and mechanic. I like to go to places that specialize in diff's This way, you can tailor the torque multiplication to suit what you wish to tow according to the charts posted above Of course, assume your Sub has the tow package. Not at home right now, so can't look up the RPO codes for you to check against glove box label. That label has all the components it left the factory with
BenK 04/11/18 01:40pm Towing
RE: 3:31 Gearing

OP...your perfect TV might have the 'wrong' diff ratio...but...they can be changed by a good diff specialist In my locality, a new gear set (parts and labor) run around $1K per diff That in mind, you can look for that perfect one and change the diff(s) out to your liking Less time and maybe even less money
BenK 04/11/18 01:34pm Tow Vehicles
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