Both AAM 14 bolt axles GM uses are the 10.5" ring gear for 6K GAWR and 11.5" ring
gear for 7K GAWR
This Nissan will have a 13" ring gear from AAM, an American firm, with larger
axle tubes but only 6 six lugs from the pic's. What is missing is the lug bolt
size. I've seen 5 lug nuts on large trucks, but those lug nuts are in the 25MM
dia range...plus we don't know if "lug-centric" or "hub-centric", so
if "hub-centric"...the lugs do not carry much of the weight
I don't go by marketing badging, but real metrics....like GVWR, GCWR, GAWR and
will wait till Nissan announces them
Worthless without a data point and that is to the exact same thing to a steel
bed and have it repaired at the exact same body shop
Then compare the finished product and the invoice. Might also include the details
of that invoice
Most common issue for all TV's is the Rear GAWR vs tongue weight
Why the bigger TV's has such a large Rear GAWR
Plus she is looking at a crew cab, which will eat up the ratings without loading
stuff in/on the bed and receiver
At least she is now looking at the bigger half ton's now...but as with
most half tons (except for the fake half ton) their Rear GAWR will
be in the 4K range vs next higher class will have Rear GAWR's in the 6K-7K range
Jeremiah...I won't get into the badging wars, nor diesel or not wars...
I spent a ton to time reading up on diesel when all of my buddies with diesels
said it was the best...better than my 7.4L...even though I could keep up and
toast them when driven as a 'car'
Spent another ton of time on the famous thread here on the Bosch CP4. Learned a
few and contributed a few
Could see how the Bosch engineers added band-aid after band-aid till it is now
just BARELY making the cut...even then at any moment...it can blow up to spew
debris into the fuel system
Common sense and a good free association talent are both missing in a
large measure with both Bosch management and engineering
DCL is a wonderful coating in the RIGHT application...but...using one of the best
known non-stick coatings on a VERY HIGH PSI interface that then has a VERY, VERY
poor lubrication medium (diesel) is just asking for problems. Non-stick as in
asking the VERY POOR lube to have very high film strength to coat that best
non-stick material coating... Betcha the DCL coating is 'dry' most of the time.
Then that they had a 'floating' piston rod NOT connected to either the cam nor
the piston bottom. Think if an ICE's piston floating without a wrist pin and the
rod not connected to the crank shaft. Pure dump engineering. They should have
and still can, employ a 'caged desmodromic' setup on the cam side and capture
the piston to rod (IIRC...the piston might be captured to the rod, but it's been
I did not and still do not like the onerous SMOG measures and can only hope
that they will make a big discovery to bring back the MPG of old, along with
the power of diesel
My issue is the weakest link continues to be the Bosch system no matter which
More so for long term owners and used buyers...ticking time bomb IMHO
I've not read all of the posts...just answering the OP's question
The 'receiver' holds *ALL* of the weight from the hitch to the
trailer tongue. Depending on 'which' hitch...some have most of the hitch
weight on the TV's side of the ball...others on the trailer side
of the ball
If the 'hitch' weight is of concern because it may cross the ratings
line...then your TV is too small for what you want to tow, or your
trailer is too large for the TV you wish to use. Decide which is
more important to you..the TV or the trailer and add safety is in
that mix too
The 'receiver' capacity or rating is listed on the label on the receiver
My Odyssey Mini Van
Just comparing V6 to V6 is out of context
All NA or Forced Fed?
Alway curious on how 'performance' is listed...over at any 'sports car' mag will
have braking distances from various speeds...speed going through
the same slalom...but over at these 'truck' forums...no one thinks
braking & slalom are a 'performance' attribute
Missing on these 'truck' list of performance attributes are their TRUCK RATINGS
that matter, or matters to me. Like GVWR, F/R GAWR, GCWR
All they listed are 'car' metrics...down to weight to power...which is a 'go' metric
Depending on what voltage...that 400HP electric motor might weigh more than your half ton TV
I'd love to convert my Suburban into an all electric with this
traction motor below...found while working with a couple OEMs on next
gen hybrid (now selling). We parted ways when they would NOT consider
a plug-in recharge cord...saying their surveys indicate their buyers
won't if a charge cord option was there.
1,500 HP continuous duty cycle, but 1,200 VDC & liquid cooled for our next gen
tank. Powered by a turbine (jet engine) generator...two...one for each track
Or if they have a baby brother at a more reasonable voltage... :B
rv.net tow vehicle, Hybrid Trucks for Towing
This is the traction motor I'd love to get my hands on...or it's baby
brother, if there is one...
Electrodynamics.net tank traction motor
1,500 HP...CONTINUOUS duty cycle next gen tank motor and it will have TWO of them.
One on each side (treads) and direct drive on the sprocket. Plus these
can be over driven to have over 200% torque at ZERO RPM at a reduced
duty cycle (think somewhere around 40%....also assuming dependent
on the cooling systems capabilities)
On our trucks, NO tranny needed and the diff can be a 1:1
Since no tranny, this motor can be in the tranny tunnel and the ICE bay a pure
generator & battery setup....also tried to get a few of the OEMs
to understand that architecture, but they have no clue in their
marketing and management folks....their engineering folks did and
loved talking shop with them...but the decision makers continued to
give us headaches...
Glad to find you also understand that any 'diesel' locomotive is a hybrid and
has been for decades. I'm working on my city's staff trying to get them to
understand that and that the freight line can be an all electric for HSR (high
speed rail), but that is another topic...
ICE's are in the heat pump family and use heat to generate movement
of the piston that then plays with moments (lever arms)
Of the main two ICE's, they develop their heat from two different fuels
with different BTUs per measure
The lever arm is designed to capture the 'type' or characteristics of
that architecture. There is now a huge middle ground...meaning that
diesel's are now designed to have what used to be gasser characteristics
Gasoline is my fuel of choice and am waiting for GDICI. Was waiting
for DI heads for my 7.4L, but that is another story
These all use heat to create a rapidly expanding gas to push the piston
that then plays with a lever arm...AKA the crank
Electric motors do NOT use heat, but magnetism. The push/pull of it
All of you folks with ICE's have ZERO torque at zero RPM and have to
use an electric to get your ICE's rotating
As John stated...it is a choice which method of rotational power you
wish to own
Lost in the metaphor of which method of rotation power you like over
another is the muddy waters most speak of and in...
I am not a ME, but have been assigned to SunLabs for over 12 years
from my real job as an acquisitions manager of a large corporation
and love anything automotive, mechanical, whizzbang...
PS...there are two kinds of ME's :B
Les...electrics can have +300% torque at zero RPM. ICE's have zero torque at zero RPM
Why current diesel locomotives are and have been hybrids (deisel drives generator to drive electric traction motors directly connected to the steel wheels) for decades
KISS this...you folks are making it way more complex than it needs to be by adding gearing, engines and motors
KISS...torque is the twisting force....allow it to turn...and...now you have HP...period. It is that simple
Gearing multiplies the input shaft force by the ratio to the output shaft...can be more to even less power...period. That is how that works
Now toss in motive architecture if you wish to complicate the discussions
ICE's are ENGINES...electric's are MOTORS
Back in is my preferred and an example is leaving the ballet in San Francisco...the
line of cars is bumper to bumper...if I had to back out...they won't let me into
the lineup...but if backed in...just get my nose inbetween'm and I'm out in a flash
Pivot point...learn to know/see where your rear wheel's contact to pavement is
Then use that point as reference when backing anywhere.
Backing into a parking slot and gotta miss a car...watch where it's corner is
in reference to your rear wheel's pivot point is...once it clears that car's
Ditto moving forward...know where your rear pivot point is and watch
the corner of the other vehicle till it clears the pivot point and then
you can crank your steering wheel
corner...crank steering wheel...knowing you'll miss it and then focus on the
I'm a gasoline person...seriously considered diesel around 99-2K, but after boning up
on it...decided to dodge the SMOG freight train coming down the tracks
Now that GDICI has proven it self beyond just a curiosity, I'm waiting for that
As for the price differential between gasoline and diesel...and folks who might
purchase based on 'that spot in time'...might regret it down the road. As what
that will be is a mystery to everyone...one can go by the general trend over
a looooong period of time and that trend is a raising of prices for both and all
forms of energy...except for renewable/alternate
When I started driving...regular gasoline was IIRC $0.24/gallon. Also remember
when it broke a buck and everyone was screaming the end of the world was at hand...
PS...the HP/Torque 'discussion' will never end...have even had to
tell a couple of my engineers to get back to work because they were
'discussing' HP/Torque (OBTW...silicone, so in the micron world)
HP does NOT exist without the other. The issue or out of context
that I always see is that the engine type, architecture, etc are not
considered...so out of context
An F1 engine doesn't have the torque many of our trucks do and has
similar HP numbers...but out of context as their RPMs are in the
13,000 or more with TINY displacement
Can't wait for this to turn into power at the drive axle and how my
1996 GMT400 7.4L Sub has over ~11,000 of torque on it's drive axles...
Suggestion...instead of using marketing badging (which is dangerous, as you can
be talking about completely different models)...use their GVWR's and F/R GAWR's
Like a F150HD may not be the same as a F150 with the HD option
As there are many different models with the 'half ton' marketing badge
Someone posted that there are over 14 half ton models
".....amazing deal on a Gas F250....."
How much lower in price is that vs whatever else you have been looking at?
Will that price differential pay for a few years of fuel?
Seems to me that your 'have to have' list is satiated by the GVWR/GCWR and
seat belts of that F250...except for MPG
If me, MPG is not on my 'have to have' list
All things wear out...even our bodies...over time. When it will fail
completely is dependent on many factors
It is over stressed for a very short time, it will only shorten it's
life span a 'little'.
If over stressed a LOT for a very short time, it will shorten it's
life span more than a little...and so forth
Our 04 Durango has pulled our 30' TT with no significant issues for the last 8 years and 270,000 km but we are wanting to take a big trip this summer so are starting the search for something newer and more reliable.
Why do you think your setup is not reliable enough after
stating that there were 'no significant issues' ?
I take to mean you have not over loaded it, kept up with the maintenance,
and not abused it...but...it has 270K KM, so it has 270KM's worth
of wear and tear.
So you no longer trust it enough for this big trip
Very reasonable and logical.
In the "near" future we would want a moderate sized 5th wheel so will be looking for a truck. Not brand new but new enough that we hopefully will get lots of use. We want a crew cab and something fairly good on gas as it would be my wife's daily drive with at least the towing power of the Durango. I think we are looking for gas not deisel.
So going down in size fiver right?
So saying want to stay in the half ton class, right?
I'm a gas person too
How big of a truck (1/2, 3/4) would we need?
Depends on what fiver you will end up with, how long you plan to keep
that setup and how do you plan to maintain it? Out on the road full
timing is tough, as a couple I used to help take care of their
F250/Fiver found it hard to time maintenance to miles on the OD
I'd get as a min any +8K GVWR. Dually only if you have a big & heavy
fiver, but if your wife is going use it as her daily...single wheel
Do the shorter boxes work with 5th wheels?
How big of a motor? (Trying to balance pulling with gas mileage)
Personally...it is either one or the other. Close would be higher BTU
content fuel and that is diesel, but I'd not own a diesel at this
point of it's technology...plus am not a diesel person
I like big motors and manage fuel to stops. My Sub has a 42 gallon
main tank and have 5 gallon jerry cans.
IF MPG is that important, then stick to the lower class TV's...half tons
They don't come with 'big motors' because they are targeted for folks
who place MPG higher on their 'have to have' lists.
There are 'fake half tons', but they too have smaller motors for
Careful when looking at pure MPG numbers. ICE's with forced induction
has pretty good non-boosted MPG numbers, but since forced fed air
in the amounts of a 'big motor' when on boost...they have similar
MPG numbers to 'big motors'...plus few understand that when towing
heavy with a forced induction (boosted)...they spray extra fuel into
the ICE...not for added power, but to cool down the turbo & ICE innards
that will then further reduce MPG
I'm not stuck on any brand. Just hoping you could give me some ideas for what to look for and what to stay away from.
Thanks much for the help.
These things do NOT increase the axle nor truck ratings
They are to bring back the rear's orientation, or height
I have 1 ton coil helpers on my Silverado because it was dad's when I installed
them. It was is grocery/butcher shop and the works (brother was the worst) would
load it up at the produce terminal/canned goods terminal/poultry warehouse/etc
till it was on the bump stops
I now own it and every year load it up with firewood/wood pellets/gravel/etc
in the neighborhood of +2K to +3K in the bed
It does NOT drop more than a few inches, but the rest of the truck wallows
and I do not take it out on the freeway loaded like that
My point is that the rear axle bearings go south every few years and almost
every year when dad owned it.
Meaning the axle is NOT rated for that and is over loaded. Sure the truck 'looks'
okay, but the rest of the rear end will fail sooner with this over load
If your truck sags that much...air bags will re-level it, but the rear GAWR
will still be the same no matter what you do
I keep my vehicles a loooong time and don't have any of the newer ones with
'highly integrated' stuff
Do drive sisters 2014 E420, other sisters 2015 Accord Hybrid and buddies brand
new Fake Sub (Yukon XL with every order-able ordered)...but am not in the habit
of pulling radios out of vehicles... :B
Also do NOT like 'highly integrated' anything...except for my Leatherman
and Swiss Army knife. At that, both have very sharp knives, but neither
are as good as a dedicated knife. Ditto anything else on them
Similar to not liking the 'highly integrated trailer brake controller'
Current MagnaFlow dual in/dual out muffler for the Sub's 7.4L is goint
out. LOUD and would have loved it when in my teens, but now it is just
LOUD...going to get a new one soon.
Guess my Sub is worth more if I sell it now...knowing that exhaust
noise is the current LAGS... :R
Agree...and don't know the exact details of his citations....he did weigh them with portable scales
We talked about this stuff after I've read one of his CHP magazines which did NOT leave out gory pictures of accidents and why we talked about how clueless folks are in the possibilities of their actions
Started showing me his mags after my first time being sued...scared the neck out of me...in my early twenties then. Older than me, so was teaching metrics if how lawyers think and use 'evidence'
Let's be clear about this. There is no law that says "you can't tow overweight". If you are involved in an accident you may be charged with negligence. But, if you are involved in an accident and they are so inclined, they "will" find a reason regardless. You could be charged with negligence for: failure to stop in a safe assured distance, failure to realize there might be a patch of ice on the road, failure to use your turn signal, improper lane usage, speeding, improper signal usage, driving to fast for the conditions, or any one of a thousand other possible charges. They key word in all the above responses is "negligence". They will find a reason.
Lacking an accident, you can never be pulled over, weighed and cited "non-commercial" unless you have over 20,000 lbs on an axle or exceed a tire rating.
Thank you....that has been and is the point
But you can be cited...cousin Ca highway patrol sergeant did that while on the force...till he quit due to one too many accidents he had to investigate
I would believe that the vehicles that he did pull over and cite "looked Overloaded, and unsafe".
The sad part is that a TV and trailer, can be within ratings, and still grossly unsafe.
While one grossly over ratings, can be perfectly safe! (Excluding over tire ratings)!
Don...I didn't believe at first and thought a joke, but is now well documented
and more models are getting this 'feature'
It adds value if it makes the sale !!!...right?
Am told that even when the stereo is 'off'...it is on for this 'feature'