These extensions all have too much sloop for me and reduces the
leverage of any WD Hitch system
if me...toss the pickup bed for a flatbed with side slats just short
of where it would interfer when turning
John...a well written and documented post...as usual !!
This is too common/often a tell on how trailer OEMs go 'lowest cost' and
'just enough' in axle ratings
Things would last longer and be safer if there was more design margin dialed
into their ratings (GVWR, GAWR)
OP...sorry for those comments. Note that at 69 years old and several careers
dealing with design, manufacturing, construction, etc...many, many 'men' were
complete morons...even some with PhD's...couldn't trust their designs nor
their hands on work
One of my best summer interns was a 17 year old gal. Just finished her freshman
year at Cal Berkeley. All men in that research laboratory world...up till hired
her. She was key to many patents to one of my Skunk Works teams inventing
a solid state (no moving parts) AC compressor...except for a $0.50 automotive
AC one-way valve so it would pump...
Wonder how long it is warranted for ?
Strain Gauges do NOT like being banged...like how that kid kicked the coupler
and then how it fell onto the ball
Ditto if it isn't a strain gauge, but mechanical (spring, lever arm, etc)
Here is a real world example of what I speak of...
Late 90's and the Y2K scare...working in a corporation with $17 Billion per
year income...one of the largest in the world at that time
All during the outsourcing of design to China & India (main ones, there were
others)....One executive GM in the software division decided to take control of this
Y2K mania he read about in the newspaper...even though his staff had been
warning him of his budget cuts to that department
He decided to kill two birds with one stone...outsource the Calendar and
layoff the whole group (aporox 40 people, as he could NOT understand why
there were so many working on 'just the calendar'). Outsourced it to India
A host of problems ensued (source code issues...on the same server as one
of our competitors, etc, etc) and he asked for my IP lawyer to help out. She
hated that guy, but told her it was for the good of the company and gave
her a big bonus carrot if she completed it well
That moron GM only allotted enough budget for a 10 year deal...
Got laid off from that company and consulting back to them making more money
Received a call from that moron's head Program Manager who dictated the terms
and accepted their product (signed off on it) asking for my help...mainly
saying I screwed up as it was my lawyer...
Turns out they did EXACTLY what that contract said...10 years from the date
of signing and it would NOT work on the new OS revision coming down the pipe
Criminal that, but that Program Manager received a large bonus for the initial
work and knew he would take the credit for it if I fixed it...
Passed to then get several calls from their 'newly' hired software engineers
who found that, that old team was once in my program(s)
Point being...is that bean counter (bottom line) management will NOT understand
what they are managing (Dilbert is right on) and some of these underlying and
foundation stuff seemingly not important...that it might to most
likely be tied to EVERYTHING to do with the OS...
Will mention it, but know most won't understand...just gotta mention it..."Real
Time" is not well understood in the controls industry and even less in the
automotive industry...as of the last few years when checked...ditto
drsteve...missed that and if those tappered bearings were NOT tightened till they bind (or as the OEM instructions recommend)...then of course the cage would rub when turning
If the rollers were partially off the race...they most likely will be no good and in need of replacement
Follow the OEM's recommendations (and if not...then the OEM has a position
to deny any warranty coverage), follow the herd, or learn about the
metrics of ICE oil properties vs your application (the OEM manual
has two or more different viscosity recommendations and is by usage
(terrain/ambient, duty cycle, etc)
The OEM employs many lube experts (many are PhD's and PE's), along
with working with lube provider experts/charts/documentation/etc
to derive their recommendations with-in the manual(s)
A constant learning topic for me and if you folks want to discuss
this in more detail...suggest (if not already on these or other tech
pages on the topic) reading up...or not and just follow the herd...
Good starting point and follow the sub-links
viscopedia starting page
What is Viscosity? Learn more about the flow behavior of liquids
Best page showing the relationship(s) affecting and subsequent effects to viscosity
Factors Affecting Viscosity
Several other attributes to ICE oil, but shear strength is the main one...IMHO
Temp & duty cycle are close seconds...as they affect shear strength
The shear rate is an important parameter in defining viscosity (refer to the two-plates model) and also in specifying a substance's flow behavior.
The vital question is whether a change of shear rate does or does not change a fluid's viscosity. This question draws the line between Newtonian and non-Newtonian fluids.
Ideally viscous or Newtonian Liquids
If a fluid's internal flow resistance is independent of the external force – i.e. the shear rate - acting upon the fluid, it is ideally viscous. Such fluids are named Newtonian liquids after Sir Isaac Newton, who discovered the mathematical relation between viscosity and the external force acting upon a fluid. A viscosity function means plotting the viscosity over the shear rate. The viscosity function of a Newtonian liquid is a straight line (curve 1). Typical Newtonian liquids are water or salad oil.
If a substance is not ideally viscous, its viscosity changes with the shear rate. For such substances the apparent viscosity is specified. There are substances that show shear-thinning behavior (curve 2). Their viscosity decreases when the shear rate increases. For other substances the viscosity increases with increasing shear rate – that is called shear-thickening (curve 3).
For example yoghurt and shower gel show shear-thinning behavior, while starch solutions show shear-thickening behavior. These are just two of the most basic examples of potential flow behavior. Learn more about how shear rate can influence a substance’s flow behavior in World of rheology.
You will gain approx 10% more power, as diff ratios have an approx 10% step
between ratios offered (generally)
10% more power will be a hot discussion...leading to arguments...but here is
the laws of physics...
Since lower (higher numeric) change of approx 10% and the tranny/etc are the
same as before (same gear, etc)...the ICE will be spinning approx 10% more
at the same speed.
Since it is spinning 10% more, it will be in a higher portion of it's torque/HP
curve. Therefore more power...as long as the ICE has enough left on it's
torque/HP curve to go higher without hitting rev limits
Not just the additional weight, but the biggie will be the frontal area. Some
times it can become the main factor on performance
Yes, a very good WD Hitch system and does mask many, many, many issues
Note that all things designed/engineered are NOT for the good days out
there when a half ton 'can' tow a curb weight (stripper) Space Shuttle
The design is for the worst day out there when Mr Murphy crosses your path
OF course with-in specifications & ratings, of which is my comment and
reason for commenting (for the lurkers out there who might use this
thread as justification to ignore or be ignorant of their TV's ratings)
All TV ratings is of this and margins designed differ from OEM to OEM
OP...find these ratings for *YOUR* TV: GVWR, F/R GAWR, GCWR and forget
the MTWR...that is derived from a curb vehicle...AKA Stripper...unless
the OP does have a 'curb' weight TV
Then go out and weigh your setup fully loaded ready to go, axle by axle
Just the TV. Just the Trailer. Then both and all axle by axle
Then do the simple math using those actual weights against your
There is no such thing as Weight Police on these freebie forums...anyone
can do whatever they wish and the term 'Weight Police' is generally
used as a derogatory to diminish the validity of that comment....
PS...I do wear that 'weight police' badge with no hesitation...and
speak from experience both having towed a +14,000 lb utility trailer
and designed many things
Common and similar to other OEMs and is a CV joint, not just a U-Joint
Here is a good video on HOW2 find it and grease it...Ditto grinding that sharp
point...ground and polished mine
Pay attention to the lube of this, as it is VERY expensive to replace and
lots of times, tough to balance...
RAM Front drive shaft hard to find lubrication fitting
and this one, which has more details as the shaft is removed from the vehicle
I also have this attachment and like it better than the one above
RAM front drive shaft lube
Suspect #1...right after a brake job...and assume it wasn't there before, right?
Suspect #2...right after a brake job...and assume shoe/drum setup, right?
Don't think a bearing, as they don't typically make that kind of noise described
by the OP. Might be part of the bearing system, if it was taken apart during the
brake job. Bearing system, as in keeper washer, nut, pin, etc
I've mixed up the various springs on a shoe/drum setup and admit more than once
and why take a picture of it BEFORE taking it apart. Can not count the numbers
of times worked on shoe/drum brakes either.
If a wrong spring is in the wrong place...the shoe may NOT pull back
off of the drum properly or is left too close because it does NOT have
enough power to pull it all the way back...turning flexes everything
a tiny bit (harder turn more so, etc) and it touches...
Where the shoe slides (as designed, but it really 'rubs') on the raised boss on
the backing plate. Notice that most will have a mating wear area where the edge
of the shoe touches...why the shoe has a 'zig zag' where the shoe edge touches
the backing plate. An effort to increase the surface contact area, but it wears
a mating low area anyway
That mating, contact area has the shoe both move outwards during brake application
and rotates as the shoe engages the drum. Plus there is vibrations hammering
that area from the friction material sacrificing itself against the drum surface
As for lug nuts, nope...should NOT be and if it is...they are NOT tightened
If steel wheels, there is an stamped in upset coned hole. That is like a lock
washer or spring lock washer. There should be NO movement between the lug stud
and lug nut. Ditto the wheel, but note that all wheel centers flex and the more
loaded they are...the higher amounts of flex
Ball/roller bearings 'roll' and do NOT slide, so they generally fail with a
'grinding' sound as they 'roll' over debris between them and the race
If the cage touches anything, they will squeak, as they do not roll, but slide
if they touch anything
My guess is shoe/drum making this noise
Only use the fasteners provided by the new receiver OEM...if none or lost, replace
with Grade 8
DO NOT drill/hog out/grind/etc any portion of the TV's frame rail to fit the
new receiver. Worst place on any stressed member is the flanges, as they are
the main source of strength...the web to a lesser extent, but they too are in
the game (cross section of the 'C' channel frame rail)
After taking off the old receiver...clean, clean, clean the area down to OEM
Apply a good coating of paint or whatever you choose. On BOTH mating surfaces
between the new receiver and TV frame
Torque the new fasteners to spec and on that...if the new receiver instructions
say to 're-use' the original fasteners...I'd get new Grade 8 fasteners. As
you do NOT know how they have weathered the years. Worst yet if you live in
an area where it snows and they use some sort of salts to de-ice
DO NOT drill/hog out/weld/etc on the new receiver cross tube. It is a torque
tube and any change in cross section will create a stress raiser that the OEM
did NOT design in or knew about
Other than that, not rocket science...just lots of work with a very heavy
hunk of metal...
Talked to a lawyer right after the initial announcement, whose company deals with this type of litigation (defense, they handled many oil spills) and we both agreed to my thought that they would have been better served both financially and PR
Buy back every one and/or offer a new, non-offending version...then either destroy them all....or sell/give them away to a country without smog regulations...bet him it would have cost less back then...he now owes me a Costco Dog lunch...
Win/win...but they fought and continued in their position...until outed...but we have what they have now...
About time corporate CEO's get held accountable for their management decisions and/or mandates !!!!!!
F.B.I. Arrests Volkswagen Executive on Conspiracy Charge in Emissions Scandal
The F.B.I. has arrested a Volkswagen executive in Florida, accusing him of playing a central role in a broad conspiracy to keep United States regulators from discovering that diesel vehicles made by the company were programmed to cheat on emissions tests.
The executive, Oliver Schmidt, a German who is the former top emissions compliance manager for Volkswagen in the United States, was arrested on Saturday by investigators in Florida on a charge of conspiracy to defraud the United States. He is expected to be arraigned on Monday.
The arrest of Mr. Schmidt is an escalation of the criminal investigation into emissions cheating by Volkswagen and comes amid talks between the company and the United States Justice Department about what penalties the carmaker should accept as part of a settlement.
After a study by West Virginia University first raised questions over Volkswagen’s diesel motors in early 2014, Mr. Schmidt played a central role in trying to convince regulators that excess emissions were caused by technical problems rather than by deliberate cheating, Ian Dinsmore, an F.B.I. agent, said in a sworn affidavit used as the basis for Mr. Schmidt’s arrest.
Mr. Schmidt deceived American regulators “by offering reasons for the discrepancy other than the fact that VW was intentionally cheating on U.S. emissions tests, in order to allow VW to continue to sell diesel vehicles in the United States,” the affidavit said.
Mr. Schmidt continued to represent Volkswagen after the company admitted in September that cars were programmed to dupe regulators. He appeared before a committee of the British Parliament in January, telling legislators that Volkswagen’s behavior was not illegal in Europe.
A lot depends on traction, both the pavement/dirt/etc and your tires
Camp grounds that need low range, generally, does not have that great
of traction (pavement/dirt) that I've come across
Yes, a short distance on good traction (pavement/dirt & tires) can
twist your drive shafts, axle shafts and even destroy your transfer
case...of course also dependent on how much throttle you give it
In the old days with front locking hubs...I just didn't lock them and
knew enough to give it too much throttle, but with today's demand for
'convenience'...dash push button 4x4 and no longer has front axle
hubs...so can not easily do that without a kit to disconnect the
Speed, distance, traction and throttle amount are the keys to managing
For those who do NOT believe...take your 4x4 out to a large parking
lot with good pavement. Turn on your 4x4, low range and LOCKED.
Turn your steering wheel all the way to one side and touch the bump
Then drive it in a circle. It will NOT go more than one or two circles
It will bind and is the twisting force trying to twist your drive
shaft and axle shafts...unless yours has a 3rd member (diff)
BE WARNED, YOU WILL BREAK STUFF IF YOU GIVE IT TOO MUCH
THROTTLE AND/OR GO MORE THAN THAT ONE OR TWO CIRCLES
This topic has been discussed and the picture of the different
radius the tires must travel will inform those who don't know what
the OP is talking about
Towing RV with AWD vs 4wheel
My BBQ sauce is becoming poplar at my buddies neighborhood in Houston
Texas...he is now requesting 4 gallons...asked: "Andy, you can NOT
be eating that much...are you selling the sauce?"
Andy admits to giving it away to neighbors... :B and now only send
him a quart at a time...time to visit Houston this summer... :B
Fillet...like the tail just as much as the head (thick end), but it
has to be cut correctly. More tasty, as there is more fat around
the tail...if the butcher does NOT trim it away as they normally do...Also
prefer other cuts...the only way I LOVE fillet is in a Beef
Wellington...but without the fancy seasoning...just plain puff dough
A toss up between a NY and Rib Eye and depends how am going to cook
Gridle inside the kitchen...the NY as not as smoky. Rib Eye smokes
and flames up too much for the 5HP fan...even though the hood has
a fresh air vent jut above the front lip...some smoke always sneaks
out into the house...
Outside, Rib Eye on the grill for sure. It can smoke and flame all
it wants and is what I want...flavorizes the meat...
Slow cooking and/or my "Gut Buster" burgers are yet another matter...but
will leave that for another discussion... :C
Not really. I think the grown ups decided to stop playing the mine is better than yours game. Burgers were a more interesting topic.
Burgers are ok but lets talk about different cuts of steak :B
Never been one for 'just enough' for this kind of thing...more so when life & limb
are on the line...
Just about anything 'can do it'...on the good days...all things designed/engineered
are NOT for those good days out there...but for the worst day when Mr Murphy
crosses your path...
But, that is just me and my opinion on these things...note that there is a
half ton in my stable. IT was the 'HD' version of it's era with a 6.2K GVWR but
did not buy it...dad gave it to me after he retired (owned a small
specificity grocery/butcher shop)
To understand why that burger comment...A good amount of "free associative skill" is required.... :B
And in other news McDonalds sells the most burgers...
:) Hi, this is the most idiotic statement ever made on this forum.
And there will be more and more making the list as their complexity goes up...
more stuff to go wrong...
More so with poor maintenance (timing schedule vs usage, quality of the mechanic,
quality of materials, etc)
Leasing (long term renting) has so many neglect everything...as it is a rental
so why bother...
Why seriously noodling my next TV after the Sub dies...something pre-tech
and pre-smog or lesser smog controls so can do whatever want to do
Keep the body & VIN for smog...then newer junk yard +9K GVWR frame & axles, but
now can stuff in a 'built' carb'd gasser with little to no smog requirements
Maybe a newer port injected big block, but not worry about smog...
Sure, the new vehicles are way more comfortable, but that metric is only on
my "nice to have" list...
Many past careers in design and taught both in college and mentors: KISS your
designs Ben...and live by that most times...and know empirically how stuff
breaks down when overly complex...plus the level of tech to fix'm goes way up...
Personally...only care about this kind of topic for the numbers and long model
run so that parts (dealer, after market, parts houses and junk yards) will be
plentiful and cost reduced via numbers...
Now if traded in every 2-3-5 or so years...then maybe being with the herd might
have a position on my 'have to have' list of stuff...
As for bailout or any kind of assistance...they are mostly all run
by bean counter...(AKA bottom line) folks and too often run them
into the ground
Bottom line is important, but not as important or equally as important
as managing their 'product'...and if their product is good...the
bottom line comes along
Bunkie Knudsen, David Halberstam writes, believed in a simple concept: The people in Detroit had to make good cars, and if they did, the people in New York would take care of the stock. If only it were still true...
DO NOT provide the parts, but have your mechanic/shop buy it to your spec...that
would be like bringing in a raw steak to a restaurant and asking them to
cook it for you...with a warranty that it will be a good steak...
Also, make sure they put in writing their guarantee. Normally a
time and/or miles (the parts supplier should also have a warranty)
DO NOT tow until you have a min of 500 miles on the new gear set and make sure
the shop includes the price to flush it after 500 miles
Use synthetic lube with Moly...only if it is an open diff...if clutches of
any kind...then no super lube...just straight up synthetic