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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 643 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Electric brake effectiveness

All correct and add that bedding in is the heating of the friction material to 'cure' it... It will out-gas and then condense onto the cast iron Best braking is when friction material is rubbing against friction material condensed on the cast iron surface Un-even coating of out-gas friction material on the cast iron will have high/low spots that will give a pulsation...most think warped cast iron, but not necessarily so
BenK 04/27/16 11:55am Towing
RE: Electric brake effectiveness

Breaking in brakes is called 'bedding in' the friction material to the cast iron
BenK 04/27/16 09:45am Towing
RE: Towing 6355lbs/Yukon designed to pull 7,300 - Need advice

A very good thread and best for the lurkers out there It is NOT that your TV can NOT do it, nor have it's wheels instantly fall off...but...they will sooner than if below the OEM ratings On the good days out there, just about anything 'can' do it How well, how long, how safely, and the biggie for me...at the moment Mr Murphy crosses your path...you either have the proper/right sized/etc sized stuff spot on, or not...there will be no time to go back to the store for proper/right sized/etc...nor time to re-setup Do you really wish to be always worried about the setup because it is just at the ratings? Watch the temp gauges like a hawk. This is supposed to be a camping trip...AKA vacation. Not a worrisome trip. IMHO, why I always purchase the biggest can afford and ride quality is NOT on my 'have to have list' and is towards the bottom of my 'nice to have list' All OEM Ratings use the stripper model (curb for the TV and dry for the TT) and certified to the regulatory agencies to published specifications Those specifications are defined max: incline, altitude, temp, humidity, etc, etc On engine size and gear ratios...another 'can' do scenario. A larger ICE (internal combustion engine) will get it going quicker and higher top speed (faster). Be able to get it moving after stopping on a mountain road fully loaded to GCWR (that is part of the certification testing to regulatory agencies). Not just once, but several times within a specified time, etc, etc
BenK 04/27/16 09:41am Towing
RE: 2013 Ford F350 trailer braking issue

Knew most of that and mainly why I don't like 'Highly Integrated' anything or most anything on my vehicles Akin to the all in one FAX/Printer/Copier/FAX machines. If one goes, the rest of them goes too. After a few, now have individual machines for each function. Yes, know enough about systems and computers to understand all that
BenK 04/25/16 06:49pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tire PSI

It is not just weight carrying that the 'recommended' PSI listing on the tire's sidewall and various documentation from the OEM Weight rating is just one aspect of it and IMHO, it has to do with keeping the tire's shape during all aspects of it's duties Keeping its shape as in not folding or rolling over during a curve at highway speeds Keeping it within the temp range it is designed for. Both at the speed rating and weight rating Keeping the contact patch within spec's for acceleration, cornering and braking Keeping its ability to absorb shocks at max speed is another As are *ALL* of the 'recommendations' for 'that' tire. On that, the vehicle door label is specific only for 'that' tire listed on that label. Those who re-engineer by changing the class and size of the tire needs to know what they are doing. Ditto the rim width vs the tire OEM's 'recommendation' for that tire...etc, etc
BenK 04/25/16 12:08pm Towing
RE: 2013 Ford F350 trailer braking issue

I have the same issue, I blame both my new trailer and I would like more power from the IBC...running on 10 with not enough brakes. I have adjusted my brakes twice now om my trailer with no change. Subscribing. That is the nature of TV MC PSI based trailer brake controllers (also IBC's) and why the preset is so important. Though also important to inertia based trailer brake controllers When the TV brake pedal is pressed...it travels a bit (varies from OEM to OEM) BEFORE it develops any MC PSI...but most do get the brake lights turned on BEFORE the MC develops PSI The preset determines the starting level of voltage sent to the trailer brakes. Or the minimum voltage sent, once told to turn on Below is my opinion from reading up on IBC's when they first came out and do not know if they have changed Then the MC PSI takes over and the hysteresis is preset by the OEM for the IBC's voltage to the trailer brakes The amount of voltage sent is determined by the MC's PSI. Press hardere and the IBC will send more voltage With an inertia based trailer brake controller, once there is *ANY* deceleration, the inertial sensor will take over with the preset as the LOWEST starting point. The MC PSI only manages this via the more you press & brake the TV, the more the inertia sensor will tell the trailer brake controller to brake more (more voltage sent to the trailer)
BenK 04/24/16 11:02am Tow Vehicles
RE: 6.4 2nd UPDATE

Not just Ford, but all of them...including foreign "Highly Integrated" plus the over all complexity of today's vehicles are worrisome to me...technologist all my life, so speak with knowledge on the matter Buddy saved all her life...hubby laughs at this...just bought a C class and he's keeping his Ford Ranger... Scared her so much when she 'tried' to read the manual, about an inch thick. Hubby told her to take the 'free' class...and after her first session, came home to tell hubby that there were over 100 computers in the lowest class MB...he continues to laugh over this. Don't blame the dealers, nor any mechanic too much...today's vehicles require a computer background. Even at that, the 'right' computer background...controls and systems background are my preferred. Process control and real time even better My mechanic is GREAT, but lacks that background, so I've become one of his helpers... :B Mainly discussing to get to a divide and conquer position. He is a Master ASE on engines, trannies, AC/cooling and brakes. He is much more than that, but those are his certificates on the wall Had a few PM discussions over 'Highly Integrated' trailer brake controllers and those two still don't understand how any IBC and Sway Control system can affect ABS on the TV. Even less on how it can affect the engine and tranny What am trying to get across is that when the OEM has control of EVERYTHING on the vehicle...they get creative in pinching the penny Meaning that a P2/P3 will have that design team working only on the trailer brake control and the interface with the TV. They CAN NOT touch the tranny computer, nor the ECU, etc. Maybe the trailer brake controller that plugs into the TV's network port Since there are so many inter-dependencies for the OP's vehicle, it is almost impossible to diag it...add that in going bad...all of these inter-dependencies has the chance (high) of taking other systems/components down...they might still be just barely good for now... Most of my auto electronics is no longer good enough to today's vehicles and turn to my mechanic more and more. My hardware tools are still golden...
BenK 04/20/16 11:20am Tow Vehicles
RE: Best way to tune in trailer brakes

So much depends... One the brake size vs trailer size/weight and the biggie...how you drive and where you drive Friction material is sacrificial to the cast iron, though the cast iron will also wear...albeit at a much lower rate I carry tools and one set is to both re-adjust the trailer brakes during the trip and to replace them during the trip. Also touch the trailer brakes often during the trip. Both to check that they are working and to keep them heated up in their working temp range Don't currently own any trailer, but borrow from church members and/or friends. They now know it is returned in better shape...most times. Some times tell them they need xyz and if their brake shoes are too low, will change them out for new shoes before I'll take it out on the road. Prefer to skid them during the shake out. Around 25mph or lower. Know that when they get up into their op temp range, they will have more braking. Some CAN NOT skid no matter what, but now I know before starting out Another test is to stop the whole setup out there in the parking lot WITHOUT ever getting the TV's brakes to turn on, Just touch the TV's brake pedal enough to tell the P3 to set the trailer brakes and go no farther with the pedal. So the TV's MC never produces PSI for the TV brakes during that 25mph check/test/adjustment
BenK 04/18/16 06:06pm Towing
RE: Do I need a weight distribution hitch?

All things designed/engineered are not for the good days out there when a half ton 'can' tow a 'dry' Space Shuttle... Things are designed for the bad day, or worst day out there when Mr Murphy crosses your path Either you have the right sized and properly setup or not...there will be no time to go back to the store for better/bigger/etc...nor time to re-setup. Either it is there spot on, or not... They why of the last two generations of GM platforms for the Suburban has a limited receiver rating. Both dead weight and WD Because they designed the receiver into the bumper, which has an over arching requirement mandated by the government and insurance institutions...it has to have a crumple zone That crumple zone has stress raisers designed in so that it will bend/break/fold/etc during a crash That stress raiser becomes the limiting factor for towing heavy. Going over any rating will not have the wheels instantly fall of...just sooner than if within the ratings. Performance is also affected negatively. In this case for the receiver...know that the cross tube has both beam loading and torsion loading. In making changes to it's design (AKA Re-Engineering), it is a requirement to know how that affects those functions. The effect might be to introduce one or more stress raisers...to a host of other possibilities Prime potential issue is changing the harmonics and then the stress fractures that might induce. Most folks know that as 'tin canning' Add what always say for anything to do with ratings... Decide whether you believe in the OEM ratings or not. If not, then do whatever, but know you have taken the OEM(s) off the hook for both warranty (if there is any left) and over all liability for injury/crash/etc If yes, then find out what your OEM(s) ratings are and follow them. Learn how that ratings system works
BenK 04/17/16 10:32am Towing
RE: Towing in high gusty winds: filling the tank helped a lot

Similar principle on the TV...heavier does the similar Laws of Physic's apply to everything...
BenK 04/17/16 10:18am Towing
RE: Do I need a weight distribution hitch?

Most who resort to derogatory's just don't like what is said and try to reduce the value of that advice via the derogatory "Weight Police"... Well...there is no policing on these freebie forums...other than policing bad words, disrespect of others, etc... I'll take that moniker, Weight Police, as it make no matter what the advice it, it is up to the OP or lurker to make their own risk management decision (AKA gambling) As all the print outs in the world from advisors saying 'you are good for it', etc will be worth squat...as the only person responsible for the TV/trailer/etc is the driver So, to the OP, decide if you believe in the OEM ratings or not. If not, then do whatever, but know that you have removed the liabilities (warranty if there is any left) and pure liability off the OEM's back and assumed them yourself If yes, then find/learn what those ratings are and follow them PS...Barney is correct. 'Restore' the front axle weight...means WD'ing weight from the rear axle to the front axle...
BenK 04/15/16 06:38pm Towing
RE: Do I need a weight distribution hitch?

This can be answered by the receiver's ratings label on your TV It will list two ratings...one without a WD Hitch system (dead weight) and other with a WD Hitch system But...you will need to know that trailers ACTUAL tongue weight, not the 'dry' tongue weight. The 'dry' tongue weight will be 450 lbs if the tongue is a 10% of the dry weight. If your trailer weighs more than 4,500 lbs, then it will be more using the 10%. Most trailers will be more than 10% (best range is 12%-15%), and even using the 'dry' 4,500 a 12% tongue would be over the normal 500 lb dead weight rating of most receivers. Here is a quote from an old thread that has a picture of that posters receiver rating label Do I Need to use a WDH with an F350 SRW Powerstroke? receiverratinglabel receiverlabel Look on your receiver tag for your maximums when weight carrying and using weight distribution. I know Ford upgraded the receiver since 2005 - Using mine as an example, it was rated for 500 lbs tongue weight and 5000 lbs trailer weight when weight carrying and 1250 lbs tongue weight and 12,500 lbs trailer weight when using weight distribution. http://i.imgur.com/SJTyq4nl.jpg According to the 2015 towing guide, yours is rated 850 lbs tongue with 8500 lbs trailer without WDH and 1400 lbs tongue with 14,000 lbs trailer with WDH. http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/15RV&TT_Ford_SuperDtyPU_r1_Jan12.pdf
BenK 04/15/16 02:51pm Towing
RE: 2500/3500: 2012 CC 4x4 std bed diesel physical differences

The reason I ask is 3500 are hard to find and go for more money used. I think it will also be harder to sell later. Oxymoron...harder to find because they are both rare (most buy half tons...even when they need higher class TV) and sought after by those who either "been there, done that" with lower class or just know the metrics of towing Oxymoron, is that it should be easy to sell it after you are done with it...as long as you took care of it and it is not trashed
BenK 04/11/16 10:09am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ram 2500 vs 2500 Power Wagon

Goes in line with the 'half ton' mentality, but few understand that 'half ton' spans 'currently' from +6K GVWR to +8K GVWR... Still pitch that to avoid this confusion because of using marketing badging...use their GVWR's...that does NOT change from model era to model era and is a constant over time and is definitive
BenK 04/09/16 12:11pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Avalanche 2500 + 31 ft Jayco Eagle Question

You'll be close on your weights, if not a little over on some, but you should probably be OK... unless there's a strong crosswind, or large trucks passing you on the freeway, or heavy rain, or you're going downhill, or uphill, or around a curve, or you have to brake hard and/or unexpectedly, or make a sudden course correction, or some unpleasant combination of the above. Those are the moments when you find out just how good your setup is. I try not to be the weight police, but that is a lot of trailer for that truck. Great comment and directly so... :B All things designed are NOT for the good days out there when a half ton can tow the Space Shuttle (approx 165,000 lbs "dry")...but for that worst day out there when Mr Murphy crosses your path Either you have the right sized everything and setup correctly spot on, or not...no time to go back to the store nor to re-setup Why I don't provide the 'sure you can' type of advice, but metrics on HOW2 figure it out yourself
BenK 04/09/16 12:01pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Replace OEM Ram Brake Controller w/Aftermarket BC??

Nothing wrong with being 100% dependent on others, or the OEM in this case, but I'm not one of them Being a technologist/designer/etc all my life, prefer to take stuff and adjust them to my liking/preferences Then that the braking characteristics of both TV and Trailer (TT or Fiver) are not the same. Too many variables among what comes from the OEM stock to what folks do with aftermarket products Finally...the timing of when the trailer brakes are turned on vs when the TV brakes are turned. I like my trailer to lead my TV in braking by as much timing as I can dial in as my TV has performance level products and my super tune to manage that 'push' from any trailer braking or going down hill, etc Most TV's will out brake most trailers...mine way more...so gotta have the trailer braking upped to keep that balance as close as possible Personally, am amazed and wonder what the heck were their design specifications???? Hope you guys keep reporting back on how this goes...a very interesting topic and thread
BenK 04/07/16 03:41pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Avalanche 2500 + 31 ft Jayco Eagle Question

Thanks everyone! The specs were from the manufacturer. I'll check out the door jam tonight. What I do not understand is that the GCWR is the same for the 2500 with the 4.10 rear - and that towing capacity is 12,000 lbs. Towing 12,000 plus the curb weight of the truck would put it over the GCWR. and Specs are as follows: Avalanche 2500 Wheelbase - 130" GCWR - 17,000 lbs Curb Weight - 6,642 lbs 3:73 Axle (Tow rating 10,100 lbs - with a 4.10 it's 12,000) Payload - 1,958 lbs GVWR - 8,600 8.1 liter (496ci), 340hp, 455 torque Camper Jayco Eagle 314BHDS Dry weight 8,110 GVW 9,975 Tongue 1,065 dry MTWR, that 12,000 lbs, is based on a 'curb' TV, which is also known as the 'stripper' model Just take the GCWR you listed of 17,000 and subtract the MTWR 10,000 and you will have the TV's weight they used to derive all for 'your' TV On that, is the GCWR you listed for the 3.73 or 4.1 diff gears?...that changes just like the MTWR vs gear ratios Another point is that you are using 'dry', so going with that to project (guess without actual weights) is that 8,110 divided by 1,065 = 13.13% tongue weight. Meaning unless you are going to tow a 'dry' trailer, the tongue will be approx 13.13% of whatever its actual weight will be If fully loaded to GVWR of 9,975, it will in the 1,309 lb range Again, consider changing out the OEM receiver, it is hasn't been already
BenK 04/07/16 03:31pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Avalanche 2500 + 31 ft Jayco Eagle Question

8.1L, so GMT800 platform...my suggestion is to change out that POS OEM receiver for a traditional receiver. They are about $200 bucks plus about 1 hours labor to remove old and install the new
BenK 04/07/16 10:22am Tow Vehicles
RE: new truck cost!!

Inflation and the reference for me is that exotic's cost is about what the AVERAGE American home costs... When a kid and mom and dad bought our first house after renting all their lives...it cost what an exotic cost. Ditto my first house...exotic's were in the same price range Ditto today...albeit the pricing is all over the map as the choices are so numerous Just a point of reference...
BenK 04/06/16 09:23am Tow Vehicles
RE: Truck bounce

Suggest you familiarize yourself with the goal of all these dials, knobs and adjustments... The goal is to have the setup as close to correct for 'your' TV & trailer TV manual will tell you how much to WD from the rear axle over to the front axle. The old rule of thumb no longer applies, as the TV OEMs have vary different suspensions these days Some will say return front height to what it was before hooking up. Some will say to get withing 1/2" higher, etc, etc, etc, etc The trailer tongue should be level at it's highest pointing and I prefer pointing slightly down Unless you know the loaded trailer tongue, you will only be guessing So best to go out and weigh the setup axle by axle. WD tensioned and untensioned Then know what each dial/knob/etc adjustment does and what for Have seen newbies and even some old timers go in circles to find that their tongue weight was really much too low/high and/or that their pointing was too high all along Good luck
BenK 04/05/16 09:16am Towing
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