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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 532 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Worth the switch to 4.30s?

Just did a quick search and found this one, but don't know if it applies to the OP's V10 If me, I'd try to keep it in the 2,500-3,500 RPM range...as for my TV's...drive to torque and for my cars...drive to HP...while most here drive to HP...which applies to my Suburban...when towing drive to torque and while using it solo or just folks...as a car...drive to HP... http://www.gearvendors.com/images/f68.gif width=640
BenK 07/23/16 01:13pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Worth the switch to 4.30s?

If it is an automatic transmission...then leave it to the tranny computer to do the shifting and follow the manual on OD or not (recommendation is really a way to say if you don't follow their recommendation...then warranty will/might be denied...yes, know out of warranty, but the comment still applies...as the owner will be paying instead of the OEM) If it is a manual, then the discussion on which gear to use is in context and learn what your ICE's torque/HP curve looks like and chose the range on that curve to be in while towing/cruising/climbing/etc Anyone have the torque/HP curve for the OP's ICE?
BenK 07/23/16 01:07pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 3 hour tow with new '16 F150 and new Blue Ox Sway Pro

Just referencing PSI is out of context...there are other factors involved One set of Load Range C LT's on my Silverado has a sidewall listed max of 35PSI Tire type/class, size, rim bead to bead, weight on that corner, etc all play Think of a tire as a air spring holding up weight, of which is only one of a tires responsibilities. My road bicycle tires have a sidewall listed max 120 PSI and is 700mm x 20mm (29 inches dia and less than 1 inch wide). My new MTB has tire sidewall listed Max 35 PSI. Again, just talking about PSI is out of context.
BenK 07/23/16 12:55pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Worth the switch to 4.30s?

To answer why diff ratio and MTWR are inter-related...here is an old thread on that subject that has a chart showing the differences A chart for GM TV's, but all OEMs have similar for their TV's... changing gear ratio? myth? quote from above link Posted: 01/25/13 11:22am Yes, changing your diff ratio will change the MTWR and GCWR, but missing is the context of the whole system, which is everything from the diff ratio, to the frame sizing, to the spring sizing (not just eyeball, but thickness, arch, alloy, width, length, etc), or the drive train (that includes the engine), etc, etc, etc Too many take these ratings as an absolute. Meaning that since my GMT400 1996 Suburban has a MTWR of 10,000...it applies to all conditions for my Suburban No, it does not and depends on the other factors involved. If I load up my Sub to it's 8.6K GVWR before hooking up. There is no rating left for the trailer tongue/hitch weight. That is if I believe in the ratings system, which I do. If not, then I'll do whatever and ignore that 10,000 MTWR for an empty, no optioned Suburban. I'm close enough (180lbs) to the 150lb driver they used to derive their ratings This is a good thread concerning weights vs ratings and how they work. Too many think just changing the diff ratio is all there is, but do not understand that in that chart has baked into it sizing that is transparent. Say for a 2500 means the everything is bigger than for the 1500 (frame, drive train, suspension, etc) Or that the Suburban vs Express Van, both with the 8.1L big block has different 4.1 GCWR/MTWR's. What is the difference based on? We on the outside will never know and just guessing GCWR...where, oh where This is the GCWR for GM vehicles, year 2001. NOTE that there is fine print that modifies all of those columns and rows http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/GCWR_2001_GM_TowingGuide.gif width=680 howmuchcanitow GCWRchart
BenK 07/23/16 12:46pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Worth the switch to 4.30s?

Gear box ratios are torque multipliers and generally are about 10% difference between ratios offered Your 3.73's multiply the drive shaft torque by 3.73...4.3's will multiply and provide about 15% more torque So if the drive shaft has 100 ft/lbs of torque, the 3.73's will send approx (there will be losses) 373 ft/lbs to the axles. 4.3's will send approx 430 ft/lbs to the axles MTWR's is very dependent on axle ratios...just check any brochure or specification sheet from any OEM Absolutism this is NOT, as the axle ratio is just one of the components of this...meaning to just talk about a 3.73 vs 4.3 is out of context of the whole system. There are many other factors. Diesel, big block, small block, forced fed, cam profile, etc, etc The tranny gear ratio(s) and the ICE's torque curve must also be factored in...as would the tire OD...best to use their rev's per mile...that is more accurate "Torque band" is the HP/Torque curve and choosing the tranny gear ratio and axle ratio vs whatever you wish as your priority If MPG is high on the 'have to have' list, then the lower numeric diff ratio. If towing is high on the 'have to have' list, then the higher numeric diff ratio. BUT...you can't have the best of both worlds...there will be compromises...
BenK 07/23/16 11:30am Tow Vehicles
RE: Truck tow setting

Cast holes, drilled holes, slots, dimples...etc are mainly for aggressive braking where the friction material gets hot enough to out-gas All friction material out-gas at their upper temp range The out-gas pressure is high enough to lift the friction material off the cast iron rotor/drum surface and is part of 'fade' Holes...cast and drilled removes a lot of material both the heat sink (absorption and thermal path) and drilled holes has a high chance of cracking from the stress raisers created during the drilling process. Whatever 'cooling' their marketing brochures says is kinds-sorta true, but they have to be spinning much faster than our truck's spin at. Typical 2 seater tires are in the 21" to 24" dia range... I've gone back to plain HD rotors after having expensive slotted cryo rotors that were supposed to alleviate the heat stress cracks found on my Suburban OEM rotors. Since the slotted cryo rotors also heat stress cracked...not worth the money for no gain Best to look for a gas slot on the friction material. Used to be only on performance level pads, but am now seeing them on standard/OEM pads The better braking is most likely from the higher level performance pads than anything else IMHO, trailer brakes should be able to skid the tires at any speed and note that trailer OEMs are notorious for El Cheapo axles/brakes/etc I have an 04 F350 and I also feel the brakes were weak at best. I just changed the fronts to dimpled and slotted rotors with semi metalic pads. I havent towed with them yet but they did make a significant change to braking action. There is someone around one of these sites that says the dimples and slots are not needed, I dont know for sure but I do say the braking action is better. My son put them his F150 at all 4 corners and really likes them much better and he no longer has the nasty brake dust on his wheels or scored rotors to look at. The set for the fronts was about $275 or so form one of the online business.
BenK 07/22/16 01:22pm Towing
RE: Tow/haul and transmission issue

With your comment: "Like I said I know nothing about transmissions," Best to leave the 'automatic transmission' to do what it was designed to do...take away the manual shifting decisions from the human and have it's computer decide...the Tow/Haul was added to further protect the 'automatic tranny' as computers, for now, do NOT know if you are hauling and/or towing... Saving a few pennies via MPG vs thousands of bucks to repair isn't worth it...or at least not to me... I've done a few long trips in my 07 ram 1500 and have always just put tow/haul on and left it on the entire time. After reading some different views here I figured I would shut it off because I was on a flat road and maybe get a little better mileage. After a while I notice I'm running at 3,000 rpm at about 70mph. I usually run 70 mph at 2,000 rpms in tow/haul mode. So I take my foot off the gas and slow down to about 65 but I'm still at 3000 rpms, the transmission is not "kicking" down. Go down to about 50 mph I'm running just under 3000 now. I tried accelerating and decelerating again to get the transmission to shift and it won't. I tried putting in and out of tow/haul several times and nothing changes. I got off at the next exit, fueled up checked the fluid and it was good. As I'm getting back on I-95 I try to merge and the truck will barely move, I got my foot on the floor and the truck is barely moving. Now I know absolutely nothing about transmissions, nothing at all, but it was like it was stuck in 3rd gear or something, wouldn't down shift engine wouldn't rev out nothing. Then I got that sinking feeling in my stomach, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. I'm about 400 miles into my 1200 mile trip home somewhere down at the bottom of North Carolina in the middle of no where! I picture Chevy Chase in my head where the mechanic is also the sheriff when he asks how much the bill is and the guy says how much you got? Lol. Slowly I got back up to about 60mph and got off at the next exit. I let it sit while I was trying to figure out what to do for about 15 minutes, I shut the engine also. I figured there was nothing I could do at this point so I was just going to get back on the road and drive as far as I could. I started it back up put tow/haul on and started out. As I'm merging I hit the gas and everything works normal, the engine revs up the tranny shifts right and I get right up to speed. I get up to about 70 mph and it settles into the right gear and I'm at 2000 rpm. I slow down and speed up a few times and everything is working normal, I had no issues for the remainder of the trip. Like I said I know nothing about transmissions, but maybe it was heating up because I wasn't using T/H mode and the computer put it in a "safe mode"? Restarting the engine reset it maybe? I've learned a lot on this forum and wanted to share my experience, I don't know what happened, if it was luck or what? Maybe someone with more knowledge will know. By the way, this transmission was completely rebuilt 27,000 miles ago. I would love to read your post, BUT, with everything together, no paragraphs, I gave up. Jim
BenK 07/21/16 10:06am Towing
RE: Trailer Brake Question

This thread by Jbarca is one of the best...within that thread is a link to LAdams thread, which ia also a good reference thread for trailer brake wiring upgrade http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23470880/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1
BenK 07/18/16 07:26pm Towing
RE: Trailer Brake Question

Personally want as much OVER the mandated minimum required by the regulatory agencies for GVWR Even in stock form...each should have enough brakes to stop its GVWR in the listed max specification Anything less...have the dealer fix it
BenK 07/16/16 08:55pm Towing
RE: Tow/haul and transmission issue

Ops...responded on the wrong thread and copied it and pasting it to this one...which is where wanted to post in the first place... http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28949712/page/4.cfm Agree...Am always amazed on these discussions of HOW2 manage an "automatic transmission" and then wonder why you folks didn't get a manual tranny... The Tow/Haul is an enhancement that tells the 'automatic transmission' that there is a load on it, or it is towing something...so it will make different decisions on HOW2 shift and protect itself The engine computer and the tranny computer can both set off anyone of several levels of 'Limp Mode'...which is to protect itself from the driver and/or conditions "Limp Modes" as in plural...so ask if it seemingly lost power in stages from the first level down to the point where it killed the engine... Cooling down will get it going again and depending on which level of Limp Mode it went into...it may NOT allow full 'Power Mode' again till the computer(s) are reset Heavy trucks and their drivers have been going up and down steep grades for many decades, before 'tow/haul' was ever invented, or cruise control too. Use your brains folks, the computer can't do everything and it can't foresee that sharp turn coming up, that stranded vehicle barely on the shoulder, that fast motorcyclist zipping towards you carving up the turns, that wet or icy spot in the lane, that sudden gust of side wind, that slower moving truck you're approaching fast from behind, etc, etc, etc. Use your gears and brakes, and most of all, your eyes and brain.
BenK 07/12/16 03:10pm Towing
RE: Anyone have this problem with their Powerstroke?

Agree...Am always amazed on these discussions of HOW2 manage an "automatic transmission" and then wonder why you folks didn't get a manual tranny... The Tow/Haul is an enhancement that tells the 'automatic transmission' that there is a load on it, or it is towing something...so it will make different decisions on HOW2 shift and protect itself The engine computer and the tranny computer can both set off anyone of several levels of 'Limp Mode'...which is to protect itself from the driver and/or conditions "Limp Modes" as in plural...so ask if it seemingly lost power in stages from the first level down to the point where it killed the engine... Cooling down will get it going again and depending on which level of Limp Mode it went into...it may NOT allow full 'Power Mode' again till the computer(s) are reset Heavy trucks and their drivers have been going up and down steep grades for many decades, before 'tow/haul' was ever invented, or cruise control too. Use your brains folks, the computer can't do everything and it can't foresee that sharp turn coming up, that stranded vehicle barely on the shoulder, that fast motorcyclist zipping towards you carving up the turns, that wet or icy spot in the lane, that sudden gust of side wind, that slower moving truck you're approaching fast from behind, etc, etc, etc. Use your gears and brakes, and most of all, your eyes and brain.
BenK 07/12/16 02:50pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Receiver limits

Weight distribution needed? Help interpret CAT scale numbers receiverlabel Not all receivers are rated the same... Here is Curt's PDF on their towing info. Names of the various parts, HOW2's, and ratings/class of receiver (this topic) Curt: Understanding Towing ReceiverRatings Check out page 7...their offerings ranges from 200lb to over 1,800 lb tongue weight ratings. So be careful of folks pointing out what theirs is rated for...as it only applies to theirs...or yours if yours is the exact same model Here are some receiver labels, both posted here on rv.net and found on the internet. Note that there are two weight ratings. Load carry or dead weight and WD. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/Hitch%20Setup/2007rearhitch.jpg width=640JBarca 2007 Sub receiver label http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/CIMG00062500HDrcvrlbl.jpg width=640buddy Marco's Duramax http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/CIMG1270crprdcdlabel.jpg width=640MyReceiverLabel https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS6LLmI0kK3kGaUrPB3D7oINF_U2ZPBneZhQdnx7q_SVo4_pX8F width=640 https://rvingwithmarkpolk.files.wordpress.com/2015/08/hitch-receiver-label-curesized.jpg?w=300&h=169 width=640 http://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/945x412/80-f250_hitch_ratings_label_2afd15ec3c5a6bc7ea633440af1a9e740a6bf669.jpg width=640 http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/13000086/images/65-1015-westin-receiver-hitch-c3-dodge-ram-trailer-hitch.jpg width=640
BenK 07/11/16 10:21am Tow Vehicles
RE: 2015 Ford Expedition - Largest TT I can pull SAFELY?

Hi Everyone, I am brand new to this forum and TT's. I've been doing some reading here and its all be very helpful. I'm not sure there is a topic specifically on the newer Expedition so wanted to post here. I am trading in for a 2015 Ford Expedition (not EL) w/ HD towing package. Specs: 4x4 3.5L V6 EcoBoost GCWR: 15,200 lbs Maximum Loaded Trailer Weight: 9,200 lbs Load up the TV with everything as if going to tow. Everything as in people, pets, luggage, toolbox, etc and weigh it Then take that actual weight, add WD Hitch weight and the trailer tongue weight. Then subtract it from your GCWR. That will then provide the actual MTWR (max tow weight rating) of the actual weight for the trailer NOT the 'dry' weight of any trailer, but the ACTUAL weight of the trailer...if you do not have the trailer, then use the trailer's GVWR that you are looking at. That is the maximum weight that the trailer OEM says it can hold I do NOT want to push the limits of the Expedition. I have a family of 4 and want to get the largest that I can safely tow (both in weight and length. Could I get your recommendations please? Matthew But...that will NOT have the tongue weight in your calculations above. Again, you need the actual weight of that tongue to figure and again if you do not have the trailer yet...use the brochure tongue weight of that 'dry' weight trailer That will provide the percentage range the tongue weight vs the dry weight of the trailer...then using the trailer GVWR...use the same percentage to give you the number needed to figure the above In the end...there is only one person responsible for the setup and that is the driver...none of the advisors here has any skin in that game...
BenK 07/10/16 02:22pm Towing
RE: slow down, or speed up

With my GM TV brake pedal switch and P3 (P2 too)...no need to touch the brake controller Just touch the TV brake pedal to initiate the switch and NOT get any TV MC PSI...will have the trailer brake controller tell the trailer brakes to turn on All the while give it a touch of throttle The TV pulls and the trailer tries to drag it...which will straighten out the whole setup
BenK 07/10/16 02:17pm Towing
RE: Towing an Unlevel Trailer

All things are designed. For. That worst day Mr Murphy crosses your path....either you have the proper sized and/or setup correctly....or not No time to go back to the store for right sized or re--setup...
BenK 07/10/16 09:31am Towing
RE: slow down, or speed up

A good idea to make this a reflex and not have to think about it, as there are only a few seconds that this will work A bit more throttle and a bit trailer braking to straighten the setup and remove the sway....then slow down Either going too fast or something isn't setup right...
BenK 07/10/16 09:29am Towing
RE: Tow/haul and transmission issue

Just like someone posting with all caps... Plus...on a tiny smart phone screen...it is tough on these old eyeballs trying to decipher when/where the tread changes... Ditto on my IPad...a bit better sized, but... All personal preferences..
BenK 07/10/16 09:21am Towing
RE: Receiver limits

A very good example...of course...now the weak link would be that Miatia... That receiver is still rated for what it's label says... Been saying for years and years here...the ratings system...is....a SYSTEM....and Only as strong as it's weakest link... All receivers have their ratings listed on the label on the receiver it self Both WD and dead weight are listed The rating does NOT apply to another vehicle...just "that" one it is stuck on Change receiver and the rating is whatever the new label says No different from the GVWR label on the TV drivers door...it only applies to that vehicle...not any other vehicle... While possible on the HDs, I wouldn't say that's generally correct. Adding a class V to a Miata doesn't necessarily mean it can all of a sudden handle 2000 lbs TW just because the sticker says so (Granted that's a bit extreme). I also know that some truck frames are designed to fail a certain way when over-stressed to prevent a more catastrophic situation. I imagine that's probably limited to the half tons, but don't really know. In any case, the 2016 HD Silverados I have seen do not appear to have a sticker on their receivers. Haven't had a chance to look at the others yet.
BenK 07/10/16 08:55am Tow Vehicles
RE: Receiver limits

All receivers have their ratings listed on the label on the receiver it self Both WD and dead weight are listed The rating does NOT apply to another vehicle...just "that" one it is stuck on Change receiver and the rating is whatever the new label says No different from the GVWR label on the TV drivers door...it only applies to that vehicle...not any other vehicle...
BenK 07/09/16 03:57pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Towing an Unlevel Trailer

When a trailer axle is flipped...it to raise the height of the trailer. That has been the general advice on this thread. In raising the height of any trailer...the upper most 'stuff' is/are normally things like the AC compressor, etc...or something like a dish for TV/Internet/etc If the OEM of that trailer already had it close to or at the max DOT spec height...then flipping the axle most likely will raise it's height above DOT spec'd max height of IIRC, 14' 4" or so Most underpasses are at 15 feet, but the DOT spec is around 14' 5" or so and warning signage of 'low' underpass is dictated in 'most' jurisdictions for anything less than 15'... Also...IIRC...there are TWO height specifications/ratings from DOT...one for urban and other is for rural areas...IIRC...urban is less (lower underpass height) than rural... Not trying to scare...just point something in the ratings/specifications out to someone headed down that path...and for lurkers who might think this is a fix all with no need to check things out Just be mindful after the axle flip...there are highway/roads/etc codes by the government spelling out 'vertical clearance' for both the roadways and vehicles Two main categories...urban and rural...one is higher and other is lower There are GPS programs you can load your max height and they will warn you during your drive...but that is only for what their DB has on file... Good luck ! What will make that any higher then the pin box... Stop scaring the guy... Shhheeeesssshhhh,
BenK 07/08/16 06:41pm Towing
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