The top of my TV's receiver is 17 3/4 inches above the ground. I'm buying a Jayco 26BHS which I'm told has a coupler height of 24". This is a 6 1/4" difference. I've read that the truck may settle up to 2" once the tongue weight is applied. If so, I'd need a hitch with a shank that will adjust 8 1/4 inches. I'm considering an Andersen hitch with a shank that only adjusts 8". Do you think I'll be close enough? My TV is a 2013, 2 wheel drive Sierra with 20" wheels. Thanks!
Welcome to the portal !
Do some home work before going much farther and note that the advice
here is free and advisers have no liability to you
Meaning there are dials/knobs/etc adjustments and that not knowing the
goal can cost you down the learning curve. Both in $$$ for parts to
even changing TV or TT to accomodate
Your " My TV is a 2013, 2 wheel drive Sierra with 20" wheels " has no
Sierra's come in +6K GVWR, +7K GVWR, +8K GVWR, +9K GVWR and even
higher. They *ALL* come in 2 wheel drive. They *ALL* come with 20"
wheels, both standard for whatever package or optional.
A 1,000 lb trailer tongue might have the +6K GVWR Sierra squat so
much to have the front tires lift off the pavement...while the same
1,000 lb tongue on the 1 ton Dually not squat more than an inch...
Provide more specifics and not the 'dry' trailer weight, the 'dry'
tongue weight and the GVWR/RGAWR/FGAWR/GCWR of your Sierra.
There are a min of three different sub-classes in the half ton class
Most 'half ton' comes with 'P' class tires. The +6K GVWR and +7K GVWR
The fake half ton comes with 'LT' class tires. The +8K GVWR and some 'off road'
packages. 'P' class tires normally do NOT last long in serious off roading
Just had to find these images of my mountain bike's bottom bracket axle I busted
Notice how the 'crack' from a long time before the final event is rusted or shows
The final event that broke it (jumped off small cliff showing off to the teen
I mentor...showing hime HOW2). Weird to find the bike stop going down...while
I continued...and still clipped in...the rest of that event is a blur
and don't remember what the heck till found myself on the ground with
one crank arm still toe clipped in and me here with the bike over 'there'...
So, this WD bar holder, if cracked long ago to rust...would have rusted
the whole crack...not just a couple of spots 'inside'...
It's a hard tail 1996 Trek 8000 and we walked for miles till we found a shop
which had the parts to fix it. Otherwise would have done it myself if close
enough to home
Jeremiah...kinda sorta agree... :B
If cracked and rusted, then the whole 'crack' would have been rusted.
Not just 'inside' like these pictures indicate
More likely poor production casting to have that void or inclusion
Anyone know what kind of cast metal?
If my design for this use...cast 'STEEL', not any of the other cast
Cast iron does NOT do well with shock loads. Just dropping it will
have 'good' production facility QC dictate it be red tagged
In pic one there appears to be two small rust spots. This indicates the cracks were pre existing long enough to start rusting.
IMHO...this was broke long before it was taken out of the box. The manufacturer should have detected this, so should the techs at CW given that the cracks were open enough to start rusting.
Glad they are making it right and this didn't cause any accident.
X1000 percent...illegal and a danger to you and everyone around you
In Europe/Japan/etc...if they caught you with those on that TV...they'd
ticket and boot you spot on
Then find the dealer who installed them and fine them. To even revoke
their business license. If injury from that vehicle (even if not 'cuz
of the tires)....jail time for the owner of that shop which installed'm
The door label from the OEM for that vehicle has the M I N I M U M
tire class and size
Since it says 70PSI, it must be in the 'LT' class tire. With the tires
sidewall listing of 44PSI...it is a lower class tire...AKA 'P' class
Which needs to be DE-RATED a min of 9% of it's sidewall ratings
when used on a pickup
Forget about freebie advice on these types of forums. Go by the facts
and that is your vehicle's door label. That tires class and size is
the MINIMUM tire
Plus...all things designed/engineered are NOT for the good days out
there when a riding lawn mower 'can do it', but for the worst day
out there when Mr Murphy crosses your path.
Either you have the proper sized everything, or not. No time to go back
to the store for bigger/better...nor re-setup/adjust
(edit)...PS...the PO might have also changed out the wheels and to
be safe, check their ratings. There are like ratings for wheels and
the kind of person who did that...might have gone to 'P' class wheels too
I was wondering if anyone can help me with a tire pressure question. I have a 2006 dodge mega cab 1500, 5.9 hemi. I have a 26 foot starcraft ar-one wide body weighing about 5000 lbs. My tires say max tire pressure is 44 psi. My door panel says max load pressure is 70 psi. Normally I know to never exceed max tire pressure on a tire. Is there something different about towing that allows you to go above a tires max psi? When I put 44psi in all my tires they still look a little low. And when I put the trailer on the hitch it looks really low. Is it bad to put over the max tires psi when towing? Any anwers are appreciated. Thanks.
You need to replace those tires IMMEDIATELY. You've got the wrong kind of tires and they are going to fail due to overloading.
DON"T WAIT!! DO IT NOW!!
Go to a tire dealer and have them look at the situation.
Obviously jack knifed...the dent on the trailer from the TV's rear says that
More than in a panic stop, which is just one of the 'ability to manhandle'
the setup during an emergency situation
"Control" is synonym for 'manhandle' in towing
Too many think it's all about getup&go (AKA HP or weight to power
ratio). That is just one aspect of 'performance'...as is braking that
so many say is NOT part of performance...
Yes...to those who thin having a HA/Pro is the end all...just one
of the better WD systems, but still a band-aid for a bad setup
Not enough truck to control the trailer when the trailer brakes fail. Towing is not about how much you can pull or carry. It is all about how much you can stop in a panic.
Just my humble opinion after nearly 50 years of towing.
I didn't see the article. Where did you read that?
Agee with Ron and wonder if this is a troll...Almost made up config
with mention of a half ton, but with Load Range C...so must be after
market tires. As the two lower class half tons come with 'P' and the
fake half ton comes with 'LT' load range 'E' (in most cases, but 'LT' class)
He is a pilot, so should know about CG and weight management vs RATINGs, etc.
As airplanes fall out of the sky if over loaded...if they can even
get airborne. Assume licensed by the FAA, so testing on these issues
and must pass those written tests
Even had his F150's OEM anti-sway system kicking to initiate ABS
to manage sway. On top of having a WD hitch system (right ?) and
Spent lots of money on this F150 and wonder why not just get the
right class TV...like a +9K GVWR or +10K GVWR dually
Regardless, a good exercise for those who might come across this thread
who might think it's is okay or try to learn something from it
If not a troll, but someone really experiencing these and not had
an accident yet...well...buy a Lotto ticket before your luck runs out... :B
Towing setup is a whole system with many, many, many adjustment points
or things you can/should do (dials & knobs)....but....without understanding
what the final setup should be...just touching and adjusting the dials
and knobs...or...tossing in different types of WD systems with no
vision on what that adjustment is doing...nor what the goal of those
adjustments are for
Hope this OP does come back with some actual weights, as Ron says
we are just "speculating" and blindly without those actual weights
Also just "speculating" with those actual weights, but not as blindly...
IMHO...many of the, then newbie SUV owners were more into fashion statement
than anything else
So with the higher power to weight ratio, married with the higher eyeball to
see over the vehicles in front...they "could" tailgate more effectively. Or
dive into a spot because of the higher eyeball's ability to see a spot up ahead
that then took advantage of the power to goose it there
Folks blame the in-animate object because they are too PC to blame the person.
Much like folks blaming the gun and not as much the person who made the gun do it...
If I was the marketing ID person making +$500K/year...I'd have the design team
re-introduce the +8K GVWR Sub and even the fake Sub...AKA Yukon XL.
Sales pitch against the other badges:
This is the biggest XYA (GVWR, MTWR, GCWR, etc) on the market and is the "King
of the Hill" as far as SUV towing & seat belts goes.
But, since you only want to tow a 10,000 pound trailer...the little brother 1500
is a better choice for you. Know that it is the exact same body as the 2500 and
that the legendary +75 year history (the longest uninterrupted model line up
in automotive history) provides the confidence of the legend and stoutness of
this family line
There is no other in comparison. This is the top of the mountain of all SUV's
and I will assure you that the 1500 will serve you well and provide that smile
on your face for miles and miles
Or a foreign badge:
This the natural progression of our full sized SUV line up and is now
the "king of the Hill" of all SUV towing and number of seat belts
Our legendary XYZ half ton will continue to top seller, but for those
who demand the best both in towing capacity and above all safety towing
etc, etc, etc
Since GM and Ford left the +8K GVWR market...it is WIDE open for the
first one to take the 'King of the Hill' crown away from them both
Me thinks their Marketing ID person(s) are clueless on RV'ing heavy
and only focusing on the vast majority sales...but...they forget the
age old 'King of the Hill' bragging rights that then pull in buyers
for all of their line up
How many threads of late that has folks talking about looking for
a +8 GVWR full sized SUV these days...their only choice is to buy used
or full sized vans
Detroit lost me to foreign badged 'cars' back in the late 60's.
Tried HARD a few times since then, but each time re-affirmation of my
decision to leave'm
Have owned several foreign badged trucks and always came back to Detroit
full sized trucks and SUVs
I'd seriously consider jumping when my Sub dies or can't/won't fix
it anymore...if...there was a decent +8K GVWR gasser. Big Block would
have me seriously consider jumping before my Sub dies... For sure
if a +8K GVWR with a large V8 with GDICI (Gasoline, Direct Injection,
Who do you think will come out with a +8K GVWR full sized SUV ?
If MPG is that high on your list of have to have's...stick with the lower
class TV. Mainly better MPG when used as a car, but when towing...about
the same, as to move the same trailer the laws of physics will take over
The bodies on a half ton Sub and 3/4 ton Sub are exactly the same...even your
The world of difference is beneath the body...everything is bigger/better.
The frame is bigger, drive train is bigger, etc
You are figuring too light of a tongue weight. If it truly 10% then a higher
potential of sway issues
Have you figures how big your kids will be? Marty, our mod, has kids on the
extreme end of the size bell curve. SUVs get into GVWR trouble way fast, as
they can carry so much.
The rear GAWR should be okay, as it is a couple thousand pounds more rating
than the half ton
The 3/4 ton Sub comes stock with E rated tires.
As a min, change out the OEM receiver for a traditional design. About $200 bucks
and 1 hour labor
Most all pickups and full sized SUVs (derived from pickups) all have the EXACT
same body...with badging differences
Gotta look at the badges or number of wheel lug nuts if you have a
Jack Knifed and wonder how much that backhoe weighs...plus the trailer
His frame is also bent...
Wonder which way he was orginally going...
2004, so a GMT800, which means the factory receiver is a POS...as a min, if the
previous owner hasn't, change it out for a tradition design after market receiver
About $200 bucks and about 1 hours labor.
You'll notice the difference when you lay them side by side
As others say, depends on a few things on the truck and what you load
Some have MPG diff ratios and is NOT good for towing. Especially on a half ton
A dry 4,690 trailer will normally end up hundreds to over a thousand lbs more
Key will be the tongue weight and orientation. Meaning the tongue weight should
be +12% of the actual weight. Meaning the orientation, or levelness of the tongue
on level ground, should be pointing level at it's highest pointing...to slightly
down (my preference and solves many folks sway problems)
If your automatic has the Tow/Haul button, use it whenever anything is hooked up
I like the P2/P3 brake controller and when setup right, will lead the trailer
brakes to stop/slow it down as 'one'
Hope it is not lifted, nor over sized tires. Both works against towing heavy
Make sure the tires are aire up to the max sidewall PSI. Assuming OEM sized
Love my Bridgestone Dueler Revo AT's (LT265/75R16E's on 16x10 alloys) on my 18 year
These are the sixth set. #1 were Firestone OEMs, which went 40K and blew two. Thought
nail or some such, but they didn't find anything in the tread. #2 were Michelin
LTX-AT's (two sets). #3 were Michelin LTX-MS's (1.5 sets) and current Bridgestones
The Michelin's cracked and would not hold PSI
Sub is at +162K miles
I do not represent the normal driver out there...
The Michelin's were great until they changed the rubber formulation to then
start to crack.
The last 10 years or so, my Sub sits and just rec vehicle and weekend vehicle
to keep the fluids moving. Used to be my daily with a 70-80 mile round trip
Two buddies are in the braking business and test their proto's all the time.
So just have to push it... ;)
The LTX-AT's rubber philosophy is harder compound. LTX-MS's is softer and hated
how the extra sipe's allowed the tread blocks to bend over.
The Revo's is also a softer, but seemingly tougher and does NOT roll over the
tread blocks. Know their patented tread block tapper helps....the Yokohama
Geolander AT's on the Silverado a ditto, but their patented tread block is not
tappered, but stepped
Anyway, I highly recommend the Revo's
That's where this whole conversation is leading. What's legal vs not.
Agree and that day when they can prove it is coming much faster than
The OEM's now have non-volatile memory for the computers...so the tuners
no longer can erase...so the OEM's can not tell if it has been tampered
For now, they can't 'prove' over loading...but most of the sensors are
there NOW. Originally thought they would need strain gauges, but not
really with today's level of sensors and software already there
Missing must be a sensor for 'incline' and 'altitude'.
Once they can sense that and when they 'want to', they just marry
those sensors to 'torque management' to either be able to tell and/or
won't allow you to in power mode...just allow limp mode over a certain
level of torque vs ambient conditions
Then it will simulate a flesh and blood draft animal that won't go
if the load is too much...vs...the in-animate TV we have today. Truly
think that folks who drive draft animals understood loading much
better than folks today driving in-animate vehicles
On well...off the soap box...just noodling this stuff based on all
of the confusion on the HOW2's of ratings management...and the constant
din of folks saying sure you can...just remove the stuff if you go in
to claim warranty...or that it's not illegal as they don't check, etc
Key word for me is your 'if it is safe'...so the conservative way if you do NOT
have actual weights is to use the max ratings on this formula:
GCWR (greater than or equal to) TV GVWR + trailer GVWR + misc
Or use it this way to figure the true MTWR:
Trailer (less than or equal to) GCWR + TV GVWR + misc
Add: to consider whether that they 'can' or 'will' enforce those ratings
As I ststed DOT and the highway authority define payload from axle ratings and tire capacity...
Do you have a source for that definition? Is that applicable for both personal & commercial?
Not trying to be a smarta$$, just up here there is different rules for both, depending upon which province you are in.