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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 514 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Tow Vehicle Suggestions

Welcome to the forum! as for parking structures...unfortunately...the fashion statem crowd has the OEM marketing folks spec out ever taller pickups and SUVs...they look bigger, but the real metrics are their ratings. I'll get to the ratings in below My 1996 Suburban is the 3/4 ton (8,600 lb GVWR) and can go into any 6'4 parking garage. 'Some' 6'2, but go slow and use the antenna as my guide. If it hits...back outta there. A 'half ton' Suburban is about 2.5" lower and that is because the 3/4 ton has bigger: frame, suspension, drive train, tires, etc, etc...even though they both use the exact same body and is where folks get mixed up The new 3/4 ton (8.6K GVWR) pickups are taller than mine. Even the lower class half ton's are taller by a couple inches. Ask your husband to check the garages he wants to park in and that is your height mark All you need are a few pointers on what the various acronyms stand for and how they play together. Specifications/ratings/limits/etc are all specified by all the OEMs in their contract to you via their brochures, specification sheets, manuals and the various labels on/in the vehiche There is FINE PRINT that modifies those ratings and that is where most folks get oblique in their figuring. Out of context and thinking any one rating is an absolute (they are NOT, as there are interdependencies) Out of context example: say a 'half ton' TV is rated to tow 9,000 lbs (MTWR, Max Tow Weight Rating) and most folks think that any half ton is so rated. Not so. There are three sub classes within the 'half ton' class. A low end 6.x K GVWR. Mid range 7.x K GVWR and a high end 8.x K GVWR Then the fine print stating a 'curb' (AKA stripper), one 150 lb driver and sometimes full fluids, other times partial tank fulls So that 9,000 MTWR is out of context and bogus unless you have the 'stripper' model...weigh in at 150 lbs, no other people/pets/cargo/etc 'Curb' and 'Dry' are bogus weights based on the 'stripper' model that most no one every orders, nor are they offered for sale in some cases Best to use their actual scaled weights. Tough when you don't have any one of or either of them, but there is a way and it provides the most comfortable experience with lots of OEM dialed in safety margin This is the diagram showing how the specifications/ratings/limits/etc system looks like in graphical form. Same for a pickup, SUV, Van, etc http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/howmuchcanItowdiagramB4.jpg width=640howmuchshoulditow howmuchcanitow With that diagram along with the various TV's GVWR/FGAWR/RGAWR/GCWR and the trailers GVWR...you can figure it out on paper with simple math. Since you don't have their actual weights (GVW, gross vehicle weight). Use their GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight R A T I N G S) That is the most they are rated to carry or transfer to the pavement then keep below their GVWR's and you will have OEM dialed in safety margin Post back on how it goes!
BenK 09/17/14 03:08pm Tow Vehicles
RE: I think Mr. Murphy is following me

THANK YOU ! It seems most everyone thinks Mr Murphy only crosses 'the other guys path'... PS...there are more than one Mr Murphy out there...
BenK 09/17/14 10:55am Tow Vehicles
RE: Equalizer L- brackets Bending

How much force did it take to gouge the head? That is the amount of sway force taken away from the sway motion... Agree that 'most' of the sway force is eaten up at the 'L' bracket location Just my thoughts...I don't have on of these...just interested in the forensics of it all
BenK 09/17/14 10:35am Towing
RE: Equalizer L- brackets Bending

I recommend NOT grinding/polishing those mating surfaces....nor greasing them Over at their web site, they say that the friction of metal on metal is one component of their sway control. 'Better than friction material'... This friction is the resistance to the sway.
BenK 09/17/14 09:43am Towing
RE: Trailer Brake Controlers

Most of the problems I've helped out with here and personally hands on...were with the trailer side of the braking system Poor wiring. From 'just' big enough gauge to El Cheapo connectors. And their routing to save a few inches to a few feet has some runs doing double duty (gauge will then be too small for that section/run) The biggest culprit are the drum/shoe magnet wires. Both just barely large enough and many times not in good shape...with short potentials Finally, the shoes need to be adjusted often. The self adjusters don't do the job well enough Over on the TV side...the sense point is often not adjusted to have the trailer lead the TV. GM has a nifty brake pedal switch that snaps over with less than 1/32" movement. Other OEMs has the plunger type (think door bell button) and has to be manually adjusted tighter...but the issue is not too tight, as it will false trip
BenK 09/17/14 09:37am Towing
RE: Another new F-150 adventure

Always, or at least me, look for the root cause...as whatever that is....is most likely still there...to do it again... Might even be a bad production run of coil springs...misalignment of something, etc Didn't you used to have a ram?
BenK 09/16/14 09:44am Tow Vehicles
RE: How to upgrade brakes on 2000 Chevy K3500 DRW.

PPPS...pulling to one side.. Mainly to do with the steering box adjustment or new box required All brakes pull to one side or another, as no two calipers will brake exactly the same With the big block or diesel, the front steering takes a beating in parking lots The gears in the steering box wear and in need of tightening. I have a procedure with pictures here and will likewise find that to post here
BenK 09/15/14 05:24pm Tow Vehicles
RE: How to upgrade brakes on 2000 Chevy K3500 DRW.

PPS...stay away from rear disc conversion kits... I've not seen one I like Have my own design waiting for the right front brake components to appeal to me. Even the OEM 1 ton dually isn't to my liking. Even though the disc is 0.125" thicker than mine. The pads are thicker and the caliper is also designed for a thicker pad. Not enough of 'more' for me to make that conversion...yet If you have the time and $$$.. a guy over at my Suburban forum went out and spent a couple nites with his buddy (GM dealer parts manager) I found that GMT400's had a utility version with FOUR wheel disc's He searched for all of the part numbers and ordered everyone of them to convert his to a GMT400 with four wheels discs
BenK 09/15/14 05:19pm Tow Vehicles
RE: How to upgrade brakes on 2000 Chevy K3500 DRW.

Forgot about the hydroboost bleeding procedure...I'll try to find my old post, as it has pictures that helps lots The after market front caliper kits are stiffer and larger piston (via oval) but they leak. Don't think they are offered anymore, as GMT400's are considered very old by most...I keep'm till the wheels fall off...or I won't/can't fix them anymore I no longer recommend cryo rotors, nor drilled rotors. Cast in holes are okay, but $$$$$$$$$$$$ Do recommend slotted rotors
BenK 09/15/14 05:14pm Tow Vehicles
RE: How to upgrade brakes on 2000 Chevy K3500 DRW.

You and I both have GMT400's, which has very poor brakes, but they can be made very good to great...but...that then requires a constant maintenance level. Mine has out stopped many 'cars' when they are up to snuff. Many argue: "how can a truck out stop a car?"...what the don't get is that when those cars go into ABS buzzzz they have lessened their stopping ability...while I'm still outside of ABS with over sized tires...so more braking than they have For the GMT800's, GM commissioned Bosch Brake division to review and recommend the GMT400's for the up coming GMT800 (GMT900's are now shipping) Bosch found that the front calipers were not 'stiff' enough and were opening up (AKA bending at the caliper bridge). Plus the bridge slide mechanism was not done well either The rear drum/shoe setup is very old and capable...but the issue is with the proportioning valving...which did not allow enough PSI to actuate the self adjusters...unless you nailed it HARD going backwards. If they were too far out of adjustment...no level over backwards braking would self adjust. Only manual adjustment would do. Ask if your rear shoes are original? Many GMT400's rear shoes will last forever if no manually adjusted...they are NOT in the braking game at all... Both 1500's and 2500's. Assume 3500's too, as the rear drum/sboe setup is the same between some 2500's and 3500's (2.5" vs 3.5" wide drum/shoes) The proportioning valve ratio or bias has been changed for the GMT800's, but they have rear disc. GMT900's has some going back to rear drum/shoes. On our GMT400's, the bias is 80F/20R or 70R/30R, IIRC Those who took theirs apart and played with the proportioning valve springs have re-set them to 50/50 This is due to any OEM wanting understeering vs oversteering. More so for a vehicle that will be towing. Gotta have an understeering TV out there for the masses, as that is considered the safest braking handling. Or 50/50, but that changes when a heavy tongue weight is placed on the tail I've not have the time to tear into my proportioning valve yet. Noodling a variable, but that means plumbing the brake line into the cabin to mount the knob Back to what I'd recommend for you the front calipers: #1, consider PERFORMANCE level friction materials#2 super tune the slide assembly, see below#3 Change out the front brake hoses...consider woven stainless covering...teflon tubing, but regular tubing ok inside the SS weaving#4 Check the frame clips. They rust and pinch off the tubing#5 Super tune the rear adjusters Slide mechanism. Clean everything, or new parts (O-Rings must be new). The new slide tubes and bolts should be stainless, but they also come in plated steel (not my fav) Any high temp disc brake grease will be fine. I add moly powder to mine. Find a syringe type of grease gun. I have a hand held, mini grease gun loaded from a 15lb tube of Sta-Lube Disc Brake grease that has Moly additive. They sell a grease gun needle with a zerk on one end The O-Rings must be installed first in the bore's counter bore slot Load a bit of grease on the inside of both O-Rings. Force the slide tube into the bore, past the O-Rings.This is always the hardest part. I've used a hammer/rubber mallet Once the tube is past the FIRST O-Ring, poke in the grease gun needle into the OTHER side to LOAD up the cavity made by the bore to tube outer surface Then slide the tube through the other side. Then reassembly as per the manual and make sure the bolt is NOT greased/oiled because that will attract dirt/grit/etc. ON the rear brake's backing plate, clean well and use a small amount of grease to coat the mating/sliding surfaces with the shoes edge Then disassemble, even a brand new one, the adjuster. Use the same disc brake grease as above. SPARINGLY grease the threads (both male and female) of the adjuster and the end anvil that rotates on the adjuster. Make sure it threads EASILY Reassembly per manual You have the 1 ton dually brakes, so the MC already has larger bores and the wheel cylinder also has larger bores. I've upgraded mine to that level Friction materials. GM has an upgrade for the rear shoes and they are very good. IIRC, they are called DuraStop or some such. Mine are Praise Dyno Brake (Texas, small family op). These should last 100K's of miles Key is to keep them adjusted 'tight'. Mine initiates ABS most times I want them to. Fronts should be HD, or higher...but...know that higher performance will require them be above a min temp before they are 'good' to GREAT So, since mine are performance level, gotta get them hot first thing before I head out. Even grocery shopping. If anyone has a good proportioning valve DIY...please post the link(s) and/or the HOW2
BenK 09/15/14 05:11pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Another can i tow this question...kind of

Let me preface this by saying we are permanent campers, and don't travel other than that. This was our third year and I don't see us doing anything different. We love the place, out neighbors, and its pretty close to home, and with a kid in sports if we weren't permanent I don't think we would camp. But we are upgrading our camper from a 25' to possibly a Keystone Hideout 31RBDS. I know its more than I would tow on a regular basis with a half ton. But I only have to get it 60 miles to my camp site then its staying there. Heres the numbers, I have a 2014 Silverado crew. GVWR is 7200. Of the THREE half ton sub classes...this +7.X K GVWR is the middle or regular half ton Max payload is 1710. This is based or derived from a 'curb' vehicle, which is the stripper version. Generally, the actual payload is less if your TV has options Even less when it is loaded with 'payload' or 'cargo' Rated for trailering 9100. This is based on that 'curb' vehicle, so if your TV weighs more than the 'curb', that 9,100 lb rating is less by each pound over the 'curb' Gross combined 15000. Curb weight of truck 5456. Go out and actually weigh your truck, fully loaded, in order to know where you are in reference to 'your' ratings Most will weigh hundreds more than their listed curb Camper is 7600 dry, 9600 GVWR, tongue weight listed at 865 (im guessing this is based on dry weight?). 'Dry' is the stripper model in most cases. Most will actually weigh hundreds or more pounds when actually weighed fully loaded Yes, most are 'dry' tongue weights, but it does give a hint on the actual weight's percentage tongue weight. A lot depends on that trailers architecture and how you load it up I know its right at the limits, but looks to be within specs. My truck will be empty with just me, camper will not have water but will have 2 batteries and 2 30b LP bottles. I have a weight dist hitch and sway bar. What are your thoughts? Go out and actually weigh the whole setup, axle by axle. Fully loaded That is the only way to know where you are in reference to your ratings
BenK 09/15/14 01:33pm Towing
RE: Question about Silverado 2500HD and Weight Distribution

Assume all true and accurate...then those very things also weigh more...therefore reduce the available weight ratings for towing... Most all GM trucks have the G80 locker option and comes with most option packages Those shocks are better than OEM, but not as good (normally) as good after market shocks. The GM magnetic fluid shocks (yours are NOT them) are pretty good, but once they leak, they are EXPENSIVE to replace. As there are no after market supplier for them When they first came out...they were around $800/each and I'd rather get Koni's at a bit lower price...but way better Most of the stuff you mention has more marketing verbiage than specifications... Frame mounted skid plates are the way to go, as the El Cheapo component mounted skid plates are just that...not as good a d frame mounted on. Component mounted will have the component's frame mounting points crack when hit hard enough Appearance package...AKA 'looks' package Nothing wrong with the stuff you like/love...but to an old time Gearhead/Wrench/Boy Racer... this stuff is pure marketing verbiage...
BenK 09/15/14 01:22pm Towing
RE: Diesel Tuners

Propane injection and H2O/MeOH injection Begets better MPG, more complete combustion of diesel, lowers EGTs... More 'Boy Racer' stuff than tuners...
BenK 09/13/14 10:19am Tow Vehicles
RE: Question about Silverado 2500HD and Weight Distribution

Old school rule of thumb was even drop on the TV when finished dialing it in...no longer As the OEMs now have different suspensions among them and even within their own model lines So, I now say follow your glove box manual on how much to move off the TV's rear and over to the TV's front axle Best to understand the goal for the finished setup. Much of the advice on these freebie forums addresses what worked for the adviser, but out of context for anyone else, as that is all they needed to do to dial it in. Know what your goal is and then do the dials/knobs/etc The TV should have enough weight WD'd from the rear axle to the front axle, as per the manual The trailer tongue should be 12%-15% of the ACTUAL trailer weight The trailer tongue should be level at it's highest pointing, or pointing slightly down (my preference) Of course within your TRUE ratings. Meaning that the OEMs used a 'curb' vehicle to derive their ratings. Unless you have a 'curb' vehicle, then those ratings do NOT apply to your TV. Best to go out and weigh the whole setup, axle by axle, fully loaded. Then you will know where you are in reference to your TRUE ratings.
BenK 09/13/14 09:49am Towing
RE: Think it'll be warranty?

here is how a GM owner fixed a similar failure... The pickup... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/site1076.jpg~original width=640 What he uses it for... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/site1078.jpg~original width=640 The "fix"...guessing he thinks 'good as new'... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/site1077.jpg~original width=640
BenK 09/12/14 01:10pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Think it'll be warranty?

Dangerous With today's hydroformed frames...they are of higher alloy than the old days and the hydroforming work hardens the metal alloy Meaning that 'bending it back' only further fatigues that area...unless they annealed it, then bent it back...then re-hardened it...which I suspect is highly unlikely Busted 'there' because the cab bolted to the frame effectively increases the frame boxed area around the cab. Ditto the bed...that increased the boxed section of the frame back there. So the area where the frame bent/busted is just the frame's boxed area...AKA stress raiser area, or weakest section Dangerous and scary that there are folks with these bandaids out there...
BenK 09/12/14 11:13am Tow Vehicles
RE: Equalizer hitch failure

Metal does NOT heal and only gets worse... It WILL fail sooner than later and when you least expect/want it to Get it replaced NOW
BenK 09/12/14 11:07am Towing
RE: Equalizer hitch failure

I had some cracks in my sockets and exchanged a few emails with Progress mfg. That's how I found out about the case hardening. What did Progress do about the cracks? I noticed a very small one two days ago in the top of one of my tubes. The ball shank is the right one, so no issues there. This has gotten one of my interests...design forensics Initially thought CAST IRON from the pictures...could be steel, but why would they harden it clean through??? The break is indicative of cast iron or hardened steel. There was no indication of ductility in the break Can see why hardening is necessary, as they use the friction between the hitch head to trunnion sockets as one anti-sway component. This is NOT "case hardened", as that meant to only harden it on the surface down to a specified depth....to leave the core material ductile A case hardened would have a different crystalline structure across the break. From hard (case) to ductile (core) Steel tubing makes sense, as to cast that thin section would have been costly. Assume they used cold rolled, as hot rolled requires secondary and tertiary treatments I'd have left it cold rolled and instead of hardening for wear attributes, have sacrificial friction material. Just like friction bars. As for the cracks on a setup with the proper ball shank length...think it's with the clear through hardening and the Rockwell C number they hardened it to. Find that number out and if it is above a certain number, then becomes brittle Sorry, it's been decades since my last usage of this area...but...that number can be looked up. Am guessing it should NOT be above 35...but harder has higher abrasion resistance...an oxymoron...
BenK 09/11/14 02:25pm Towing
RE: 1500 Yukon XL Denali vs 2500 Suburban 8.1

Going from 3.73's to 4.1's will have approx 10% more torque at the drive axles, minus losses. That is how diff gearing works I don't recommend adding a rear anti-lean (sway) bar to a vehicle that did not have one from the OEM. If you do, make sure to increase the front bars rating Otherwise it may create an over steering condition at the limits For towing, that means a higher chance of jack knifing the setup during severe maneuvers We are talking about a 2500 Suburban, right? The suspension & frame are already very stiff from the factory For a 1500, yes will help, but key is to make sure the front bar is also increased in stiffness
BenK 09/10/14 01:05pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Sway Fatigue

The OP is on the hairy edge seems to not understand that, IMHO Whether by sizing and/or setup Comments on going out to actually weigh everything and doing the simple math against their TV's ratings is towards finding out where the OP is in reference to their TV's ratings Orientation stuff is towards their setup (all of the dials, knobs, etc to adjust towards a setup goal) The goal on setup is to restore enough weight back onto the TV's front axle from the TV's rear axle. It used to be 'even drop', but the various OEMs have such different suspensions that the best advice is to follow the glove box manual on how much to restore the TV's front axle to The trailer tongue should be in the 12%-15% range and I prefer heavier. Why folks have asked what the tongue weight is The orientation of the trailers tongue should be level at it's highest pointing I prefer slightly nose down and that has solved many folks problems with just that "Fatigued" to an engineer means it is failing to failed....AKA...busted For the condition the OP describes...says they are the hairy edge of their ratings and/or not setup properly Meaning that they are okay when everything is NOT severe...but...when it does move towards a severe condition...it sways for a 'white knuckle' experience...
BenK 09/10/14 12:52pm Towing
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