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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 387 matches.

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RE: Gear upgraded, 3.08 to 4.10

Check out the Ford 2017 towing guide. Look up any, but this seems to be focused on F150 Note that these are all close ratio automatics Then check out the exact same truck with different diff ratios and the max trailer weights and GCWR's all increase with a higher numeric diff ratio... 2017 Ford towing guide Older charts did show 4.1's and IMO due to the older non double OD automatics
BenK 08/16/17 03:44pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Friction sway control for 30'er?

But...many here, including lurkers who never post, view: "recommendations", "opinions", "what I do", etc as advice no matter what the qualifier or intent of that comment is Ditto most who think an OEM's manual 'recommendation' does NOT mean you have to...not understanding the context of that 'recommendation'...if you don't follow their recommendation...then they don't have to provide warranty In part why I'll never say 'sure you can' stuff, but provide metrics for folks to make up their own mind on these risk management decisions...AKA gambling....only to find that, that OP is just looking for confirmation of what they want to hear...not from me, they have to make up their own mind and only try to provide data for them to make up their mind Do apologize for using "VERY BAD thing" in regards to lubing the friction contact areas...should have said 'in my opinion, I'd not'...I can live with that kind of noise, as know it is doing it's job... To the PM on what is that 'crook' mentioned on cam'd systems It is the spring bar (either round bar or trunnion bar) end that is bent to create a well or crook for the cam to nestle in. As the trailer moves off center, it will both pull/push itself out of that. In doing so, it increases the spring bar's tension on the WD Hitch Head by lifting the spring bar higher It is a metal on metal contact area. So it will protest rubbing metal on metal doing it's job...AKA resistance or friction. Lubing it will reduce that friction...the vary thing that it provides to control off cent movement...or sway To clarify "my" posts. If I say "I" use a little marine grease on "my" L brackets to keep it smooth and quiet, that's only stating what "I" do. I'm happy with the results. We didn't have a sway problem before with the Reese HP with no sway control. That's not "advising" anyone else to do anything. That's simply stating what works for me. If all it takes to send your trailer out of control is a little grease on your L brackets, you have far bigger problems than reduced friction. That's not advice, that's my opinion based on my own experiences.
BenK 08/16/17 03:35pm Towing
RE: Gear upgraded, 3.08 to 4.10

Gearing is only one component of getting torque to pavement... Another, but NOT limited to, is the ICE and it's architecture Then the two main computers controlling the ICE and automatic...of course their software n any tune(s) that might be there Finally the driver... That has too many components and software now takes much of the decisions away from the driver...but...often, too often, folks come here asking HOW2 override the algorithm (s)... Since most of today's automatics are close ratio with double OD...many say don't need higher numeric diff ratios...ok for most, but those close to...at...or over their OEM spec...a higher numeric diff ratio benefits them...if they understand... Most common ask is TOW/HAUL...should I use it...should I turn it off...and the common advice/recommendation/etc is to turn it off for better MPG... Pretty soon the OEMs will take that option to turn it off away...betcha after one too many warranty claims...which will increase the cost/price cuz they will put in a strain gauge on the receiver...and then highly integrate that into even more computer controls...plus they will now know how much tongue weight vs trail model that will tell...tell lots n lots...
BenK 08/16/17 07:24am Tow Vehicles
RE: The real HP/TQ numbers this is going to hurt!

Agree both of your inline vs V and torque, but comparing a forced fed to a NA is Apple's to oranges... I race to the HP curve and tow to the Torque curve You are the only one ever read here that thinks similar/same...thanks for your comments And even more interesting where my little 3.5 EB V6 makes torque at 1500 RPM where most V8's start making it up around 2500-3000 RPM. I have driven a lot of different Semi's with different engine makes and each one had a different torque range and RPM. When it comes to pulling weight, torque is more important than HP. You can have a high HP engine making little torque, which is great if you are racing, but try pulling a trailer and you will get laughed at when a smaller low HP high torque engine pulls away from you. BUT, no matter which one of the big 3 is purchased, they are all good strong tow rigs. It really comes down then to which truck appeals to that person.
BenK 08/15/17 10:49pm Tow Vehicles
RE: The real HP/TQ numbers this is going to hurt!

Didn't read the content...too many pages...but ask... Who is the new King of the Hill for this month...based on whatever site was linked ???? Marketing...maybe flocks of buyers will now buy'm cuz of this...
BenK 08/15/17 12:27pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Chinese Vehicles

Fought tooth and nail back in the 90's when working for a $17Billion/year revenue corporation At executive staff and reviewed a presentation of outsourcing our manufacturing...okay, but noted that we are paying them to become our competitors in manufacturing...but shot down because we were behind the curve in that regards vs competitors When a few years later, presented outsourcing our engineering...hit the roof, but shot down again... They got tired of my irritating positions and finally after 3 attempts...got laid off from my best job ever... We paid them (China & India) to become our competitors. Paid them to build up their infrastructure (roads, schools, homes/housing, health, disposable income {discretionary}, brand new buildings both for manufacturing...but now offices for designers/engineers and a big ETC) Meanwhile our system in decay. Kids not going into technology, but pure business side...as that is what is needed to 'manage' them over seas...but lost is the knowledge of what they are managing Rant as it is a done deal...The American Middle Class is no longer the wealthiest in the world...Canada is now the #1. #2 is ours, but China is moving up fast as their middle class (we paid them) is growing by leaps and bounds...but their total population mass dilutes this So, agree with Bedlam on the "FACT" that they are now peers with Americans in innovation. Same thing happened between Japan and the USA... As others have posted, you can get quality Chinese products if you are willing to pay for that quality (go with the lowest bidder and you will eventually find out the why and how). You still pay less for a similar Chinese product of equal quality workmanship and material due to weak labor laws and low incomes (even Thailand, India and Pakistan have trouble competing on labor costs). What I do not see out the Chinese lately is innovation - I see them evolving a few products and copying too many. It's sad because they have a rich history of inventions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Chinese_inventions
BenK 08/15/17 10:06am Tow Vehicles
RE: Friction sway control for 30'er?

WD is a SYSTEM and each component of that system has a role to play...that added together makes the whole system in good working order Similar to any vehicle today...TV's are a mini factory/robot these days...and each component is part of that system (not the aux stuff, but the real stuff of which a vehicle system is made up of) On this topic of friction bars as part of the anti-sway system...have a love hate relationship with them... They wear fast and even faster when tight...to the point that they need to be checked at each stop. Sure, if lightly tightened...not so much, but still needs to be checked/tightened The two hates are that when wet...some don't work well, if at all....other is that when tightened for 'that' trailer...some times...most times...they do NOT allow the trailer to track back on the center line of the TV's travel...too many has the trailer dog track the TV...oh...add another...they wear out in the Z area and when tightened for that worn area...too tight off center of that Z area...maybe a good thing for when the trailer does go that far off center... Ditto the newer trunnion bar and the friction material...older versions had no friction material and made more noise. Do not have direct experience with these and wonder if wetness affects them like the friction bars am experienced with. Lube is a VERY BAD thing for these and have read too many threads where advisers say to lube them to reduce the noise...well it also reduces the very thing that makes them work...friction...but oh well, can only comment and folks will do whatever As for the CAM'd system...there is no friction per say (there is a bit, but not the main anti-sway metric). The crook that the cam nestles into is the main metric....but....they too make noise when the cam/crook protest when off center line...likewise...read so many recommending lubing it to reduce noise...which likewise reduces that resistance to move out of the TV center line Andersen uses plastic springs to provide that off center line resistance. Love their nifty architecture...but...lost is their application. Those plastic springs (compression only...they are not used to pull) are undersized and not enough travel...so constantly hear of them cracking/crumbling/etc over time My personal preference is to use a steel spring that is used both in compression (push back towards the TV center line) and extension (pulls back towards the TV center line). The BlueOx SwayPro is my choice and am going to buy one some day (don't have a trailer now and borrow from church members and buddies) Also, if using friction bars...use one on each side of the tongue. As they wear, switch them left to right to even out the wear.
BenK 08/15/17 09:55am Towing
RE: Towing options now?

Agree with Barney (that tongue weight is way over that receivers dead-weight rating...plus it's WD rating and add a correction... intheburbs has a current gen Suburban, albeit the 2500 has been discontinued for a few years. Starting in 2007 (current gen) had a much better receiver than the previous gen's (GMT800 & GMT900)...but it is still integrated into the bumper...more so than GMT800/GMT900 so that it now has crash crumple zone duties...which has GM rate the max WD tongue weight at 1,000 lbs
BenK 08/14/17 04:41pm Towing
RE: Chinese Vehicles

Yup...spec out a cheap product based mainly on 'cheapest at any cost' by any OEM who sells in the USA and you will get "El Cheapo" product... Exact same scenario a few decades ago when "Made in Japan" was considered lesser than anything produced here in America...many laughed at those products from Japan...but today...OEMs importing to the USA are spec'ing higher quality of Japanese goods...to become the defacto quality standard for much of what we 'can'purchase in The USA...even blindly loyal to it...and even on this/these forums... Note that the non-American content of all vehicles sold here in The USA has a high probability of "Made in China" labeling buried in it's food chain...even though it is listed as 'built and assemblied in the USA'... FYI...note that today....the highly touted "Japanese quality" in their products...comes from their trips to our manufacturing plants at Ford and GE quality manual (one is 13 volumes) that the Japanese got their hands on back in the 50's or 60's... Chinese factories build to specification. The reason you find so many poor quality items coming out of China is because consumers want items as inexpensively as possible, and companies are shipping production over there with the minimum specifications they can get away with. Some things made in China are of good quality, but you pay for it, just like you would pay more for an item of similar quality made here in the states. There are a few exceptions, like ball point pens, where Chinese manufacturing wasn't able to reliably produce high quality tips until very recently. With something like an automobile, where production is fairly well defined and streamlined there already, with many imported parts (to China, from Japan, Germany, and others), this goes back to whatever tolerances and specifications are sent over by the companies placing the orders. Don't look at the manufacturing location and turn it away, but look at the company placing the orders from China, and the product itself on the lot. That'll tell you miles more than the origin sticker.
BenK 08/14/17 02:22pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Gear upgraded, 3.08 to 4.10

Agree...kinda sorta gave up trying to help folks understand that there is no difference between a longer lever arm (longer 2x4 on the same fulcrum) on a higher numeric gear set. Add that too many just look at one component of the gear box system between the ICE and pavement. Most just look at the tranny (gearbox) gear ratios, or just the diff ratios (another gear box)... What matters are the final gear ratio from ICE to pavement and the ICE's torque/HP curve (in rev's) in reference to that final gear ratio at pavement...
BenK 08/14/17 12:01pm Tow Vehicles
RE: One ton pickup challenge.. (New Aug 14)

IMHO...enjoy your own choice of whatever...they all have their strengths and weaknesses...am so not into "King of the Hill marketing" stuff...what is underneath the sheet-metal way more important to me... Am not blindly loyal, but admit to liking GM products at this time....teen was a Ford kid, then a Dodge teen/guy (especially a 383 & 426...and today's 'hemi' has little in common..other than the marketing name 'hemi'....PS today's 'hemi' is more pent-roof than hemi), now GM.
BenK 08/14/17 11:04am Tow Vehicles
RE: Back into a truck

So glad to see you enjoying life after that rough period. Hats off to you for not giving up through that period FYI....Below pic's of a GM 2500's 4x4 front suspension bump stops...note that they are touching at an unloaded, static condition...makes WD'ing weird (they become a secondary set of front suspension springs) and best to follow the manual on HOW2 setup a WD Hitch system Awesome country! Hey looking at the axle pic, your spring question in the other thread, those Timbrens look too short. The other pic was loaded down, I can see now with the gap in the pic in this thread. Those are factory bump stops, not Timbrens. Provided from JBarca's post years ago...PS...note the CV boot cracks...must be changed ASAP if yours has cracks like that. I spray 303 on mine just about every time down there. Changing eng oil/ATF/etc...lube everything, spray 303 on ALL rubber/etc stuff and spray all metal areas looking to need (heck, even it doesn't) with primer/finish paint... http://i.imgur.com/MXyjUKZl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/J9qymfwl.jpg
BenK 08/14/17 10:54am Tow Vehicles
RE: Oil changes

Agree with both sides of this one...if in the business using vehicles...yes of course analysis on a regular basis. But for my own personal use, that money better spent on the rest of my engine oil metrics How many of you mix your own Molybdenum Disulfide powder (less than 5 microns) with the last quart of a new fill? Not every change...just about every 3rd or so. Trying Tungsten Disulfide powder...but its inter molecular adhesion isn't as good as moly...just easier for now (buddy sent a couple pounds to try) Or do you folks insist on the best filter? Mine is rated down to 10 microns...there is a discussion all over the Internet on that...as if it is smaller than 20-27 micron...it will not wear metal parts...but polish them...nope, they don't understand that any polishing from an abrasive removes metal. Just not as much I check everything and generally know when something is going south. Even the El Cheapo dash engine oil PSI gauge is good enough for me. Get to know 'your' engine and associated oil PSI's behavior....and consumption of engine oil...my 1996 7.4L with +168K miles does NOT consume engine oil...until the oil's film strength starts to break down. Along with that, the dash gauge will show lower PSI and fluctuates (as much as the hysteresis of the gauge sensor will show) Also, so much on this topic 'depends' on lots of stuff. How do you drive, where do you drive, what do you tow, etc, etc, etc... I guess I don't understand $29 for oil analysis when you can buy 3 gallons of new oil for the same amount. Add $15 for a filter and a half hour of time and don't think about it anymore. It might make sense on a MH if you have a huge sump or use really expensive oil or a bypass filter. Just can't see myself using it for a 5.9 Cummins. You probably would not.. I have hundreds of thousands of dollars in farming equipment. Oil analysis protects my investment and allows me to 'predict' issues before they arise My vehicles just get the same regimen that my farm tractor do. Kind of like checking the air pressure in tires. Low pressure = failure. Takes a minute, thats it.
BenK 08/12/17 10:30am Towing
RE: Oil changes

Those manual schedules are for the MAXIMUM length in miles and/or time...with a bit of +/- range...knowing you just don't stop driving to get the oil changed... I change at around 3,000 mikes or so...mainly when the dash PSI starts to fluctuate and/or PSI lowers and/or it starts to consume oil
BenK 08/11/17 07:18pm Towing
RE: Overweight Again....

Add the sudden deceleration from an accident...that will be greater than anything a vehicles brakes can muster... The chairs were not designed to hold back that amount if weight during an accident and would just bend over I've done similar (+3,000 wood pellets in both my half ton and Sub listed in my signature) and most likely do it again...just saying the risk should be known in order to make those risk decisions...
BenK 08/09/17 05:40am Tow Vehicles
RE: Getting 5er and truck level with each other.

Forgot to mention the most important point on this image https://www.scientificamerican.com/media/inline/the-physics-of-disaster_3.jpg width=640 Notice the pivot point vertical line vs the CG vertical line...vertical in reference to the ground (edit) As the CG is moved up (lift)...it comes closer and closer to the pivot line...when it touches that pivot line or gets too close...it will tip over...or more easily There are more things happening with a tired vehicle and that is tire sidewall roll over, slip angle and more stuff. This all focuses the forces on the outside suspension area. Not going to break stuff instantly, but lessens the longevity and of course the tip over potential a greater potential
BenK 08/08/17 12:12pm Towing
RE: Overweight Again....

My and Don's 3/4 ton Suburban's have the same 6,000 GAWR rear axle as the 1 ton dually of the same year...difference is in the brakes Understand, as mine is a ditto with stuff loaded up to the gills...not bricks though...
BenK 08/08/17 11:51am Tow Vehicles
RE: Getting 5er and truck level with each other.

BenK, I have read your response to my post a couple of times. There is nothing I take exception to. I do not see any photos or sketches. I did not follow the " Reference my broom handle & bar weight example" statement. Used verbiage...no diagrams back then. Trying to say that with a higher CG...the forces are amplified by the increased lever arm of the lift amount....that will then focused at the suspension joints...that then moves that force to pavement via tires Found some images that might help... Locomotive, but CG applies to all things. This one on rails, so no tire slippage or higher slip angles. The higher the CG the greater the forces and high chances of tipping over https://www.scientificamerican.com/media/inline/the-physics-of-disaster_3.jpg width=640 This one is of an off roader (nephew had a 8" lifted Samurai and constantly broke leaf spring eye bolts & mangled their home made shackles...till he asked me for help). The Centrifugal force is the same, but if you lift (increase the lever arm), that same centrifugal force has more effect...my attempt with verbiage with the broom stick and 5 lb weight swung around to show that your wrist will take much more force to hold it vertical with a higher CG http://slideplayer.com/slide/10815655/38/images/16/Centrifugal+Force+A)+Screen-Left+Turn.jpg width=640 Higher CG is a common item taught/discussed in most ME classes and this is just an image from a college class work https://cdn.slidesharecdn.com/ss_thumbnails/rollover7-131003172242-phpapp02-thumbnail-4.jpg?cb=1380821112 width=640 There are too many more and hope this helps I have a Suzuki Samurai I modified for offroad use. It is lifted 6-1/2" and has soft leaf springs. The Panhard Bar was an exceptional improvement to its road manors. Most offroaders will say you do not need a Panhard with leaf springs. Ditto that on my nephews Samurai. His buddy didn't understand and their first attempt had a home made panhard bar too short and not enough tensile strength. Told them to either buy one or go to a junk yard Mustang. They found one old Mustang and it was just right. Back to the why...a lift has the longer lever arm and muscles the lower suspension...that the OEM designed it for less lever arm. By installing that panhard rod, it took most of the lateral forces onto more solid areas of the body/frame and suspension. Showed them HOW2 replace the leaf spring eye bushing with a home made delrin bushing that had a larger hole for a larger grade 8 bolt Where would you locate the Panhard on my 5th wheel? First, longest that will fit. Frame rail on one side and on the axle at the other side. There will need to be a connecting rod at both ends to make the panhard rod level in a static mode. The length of those end connection rods need to be long enough to articulate without allowing the panhard rod to touch/strike anything in both compression and extension of the trailer suspension movement range. But...maybe no panhard rod needed if you don't drive HARD. Maybe just beefing up the shackle and leaf eye areas would be enough, but that is up to you, as I don't know how you drive...where you drive, etc Plus...am NOT a fan of ever increasing CG on anything vehicle related...have done it, but only after noodling it...then re-noodling it a lot...
BenK 08/08/17 11:44am Towing
RE: Getting 5er and truck level with each other.

I have searched for causes of sway and fishtail with 5th wheels. Over and over again I read "... the fifth-wheel hitch pin is centered over the axle, unable to move laterally, which makes the fifth wheel trailer virtually immune to this motion." It beats me how someone could make that statement. Ditto and think lost to them is the fact that the fiver pivot/mounting point is either dead centered on the TV's rear axle center line, or inches either forward or rearward of the TV rear axle center line Meaning, zero lever arm or inches long lever arm vs a tongued trailer ball is tens of inches to several feet away from the TV's rear axle center line...meaning a much longer lever arm for any trailer sway to leverage the TV's rear end Why PullRite was such a GREAT anti-sway WD Hitch system, but it was too heavy, added too much to under-hang (ground clearance), could NOT remove a spare tire underneath there, etc....or the current claimed best/better HA or Pro, as it projects that pivot point closer to the TV's rear axle center line. Thereby reduced lever arm length So all trailers can and do sway...those with longer lever arms affect the TV much more. As long as the TV is pulling and the trailer has drag...the lever arm forces are not able to do much to a TV towing a Fiver...why when a tongued trailer starts to sway...the best thing to do is to touch the trailer brake controllers manual lever...to increase trailer drag while the TV continues to pull I also read tongue/pin weight should be more than 10% of the trailer weight. We are very limited on just how much we can do to change the pin weight on a 19 foot 5th wheel. I can't find my weight notes, but as I recall the pin weight is only 320 lbs. The trailer is 5060 lbs which should have a minimum of 500 lbs (10% percent). I think I did remove about 150 lbs from the box in the rear of the trailer, which should be the same as adding 150 to the pin. If true, I should now have about 650 lbs. I think this is borderline. Agree, but...again that shorter lever arm of a Fiver will have less to little affect on the TV's rear axle Tires can have an impact on sway and fishtail. As I previously stated, the OEM tires were P215/75R15. I installed GOODYEAR MARATHON ST225/75R15D. I really don't think tires are my problem. Agree and add that, that is more important (or of higher impact) on the TV than when on the trailer BenK suggested adding a Panhard Bar. I have experience with Panhard Bars for automotive applications, but not trailers. I have found no information for this application but I am open for discussion. Because trailer OEMs, generally, are into "cheapest" for stuff not visible to the general buyer. How many look down there and if they did...would know what the heck about the stuff down there... But...there is little difference in lateral (side to side loading) on a leaf spring setup between a TV with leaf spring rear suspension and a trailer with leaf spring suspension. Loading and dynamics same/similar and if lifted...exacerbated by longer lever arms and mainly focused at the shackles & leaf eye bolt(s) A panhard rod (AKA bar) locates the axle in reference to the trailer in this case. By doing so, it takes away most of lateral forces that would have gone to the leaf spring suspension components. Mainly the shackle and leaf eye bolt. Reference my broom handle & bar weight example BenK also suggested shocks. For years I have observed trailers of different types, including RVs, may or may not have shocks. I do find them more often on high end trailers. I have read high psi in tires stiffen the sidewalls, but also tend to make the tires bounce. The shocks dampen the bounce. There is very little if any effect on sway of truck Campers in my experience, could be different with 5th wheels, I am open for discussion. Again...IMHO, trailer OEMs go cheap and your comment that the high end trailers do have shocks...almost self explanatory. Or consider removing the shocks on your TV and then see how it handles... Consider this...a tire bouncing means that while it is 'off pavement'...there is no control. No contact means no braking, cornering, etc...it is flying... At this point, I think my 5th wheel was designed for a 1/2 ton truck in 1988, with a minimum amount of pin weight. I see my only option is to do some fabrication work, such as a spare tire mount above the pin, and maybe move the propane bottles to the front. I think that would add about 150 lbs to the pin and remove about 100 lbs from the rear. That would give me about 800 lbs total pin weight plus the removal of about 250 from the rear. I am open for suggestions or comments. Links to shock and/or Panhard install or discussion would be appreciated. Wayne
BenK 08/07/17 09:45pm Towing
RE: Getting 5er and truck level with each other.

First...it is a suspension "system" designed, certified and warranted by the OEM...for as is from the factory. Changing that requires some re-engineering...serious re-engineering. Gotta add at this point that all things engineered/designed are NOT for the good days, but for the worst day out there when Mr Murphy crosses your path...either it right spot on then, or not. Key is to be able to manhandle that situation So in lifting the box/frame higher on the suspension, it will increase the loading during curves/turns/etc on the suspension. Mainly the shackles and bolts to it A pan-hard rod will help reduce the amount of lateral (horizontal, side-to-side) movement and will do little to nothing for the lean that will come with an increased CG For those who might not understand what a higher CG will do...take a broom stick of about 3 feet long. Slide a 5 lb weight on it with the broomstick poking through the middle hole Tape it about 1 foot from your hand and lean it off vertical. Note the amount of wrist/arm strength to manage that Then slide the weight higher to end, about 3 foot from your hand. Tape it on and then lean it off vertical and note the amount of hand/arm strength it will take doing that. Then do that while running around a circle where centrifugal forces will increase the above forces needed to to manage that. Now with a trailer box & frame weighing in the thousands of pounds...that force is going to very high The pan-hard rod will keep the side-to-side movement of the box/frame from moving side-to-side much. How much is dependent on the compliant bushings used and the length of the rod and where it is attached to the axle and frame. But...there will still be added loading on the outside suspension and mainly on the shackle(s). On that, the bolt will be in shear and the amount of loading muted by the leaf eye bushing As a min on that, the shackle should be re-enforced. Best to have one that has a member between the two and the shackle thickness should likewise be re-enforced by either thicker and/or a bend-back The bolts should be increased in size, but the leaf eye most likely will limit that. So a min of a grade 8 (English) or grade 8.2 (metric) with same grade washers on both sides. Ditto the nut, but hardened nuts tough to find (pun intended) Adding a properly designed pan-hard bar can also allow consideration of removing the leaf springs for a coil spring setup...but...will require additional links and is now very complex for a trailer... An anti-lean bar (AKA...anti-sway bar) will help, but note that it will load up the outside tire/suspension even more. Snap transition from chirping tires to full out skid can make for a tough trailer to handle at the limits Shocks will help in all that, but not a total solution. Depends on the shock type and not many will put in high end shocks with smart valving. Finding one that has the proper "Z" length and extension length will be tough
BenK 08/07/17 02:18pm Towing
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