You guys lost me (not hard) on which half ton are
you talking about? On that, which half ton does the OP have?
Basically 3 classes of half tons for the F150 line up (marketing badging)
and the myriad of marketing badges (Max Tow, HD tow package, etc) and has been
report up to a total of 15 different F150 models out there
If the OP has any of the +8K GVWR F150's, it might be okay, but still up against the
If the OP has any of the +6K GVWR or +7K GVWR F150's...going to be over the
So who's on first and what's on second....???
I agree with the above two posts... If I'm towing, it stays on. I don't mean to sound rash, but this isn't rocket science trying to figure out when to use it.
Totally agree and why I'd love to be able to have ordered my Sub with
the 5 speed manual
Made my own...
OK I have been surprised this weekend by a couple discoveries on my F150 5.4 liter.
1) The front wheel bearing is pressed into the brake disk and sealed. I was going to replace them but the bearings seem to be special order unless you buy the disk with bearing installed. Should I replace them in the first place, and can I reset the new bearing with the block of wood and hammer method or do they have to be pressed in?
2) Second there is no radiator cap on this and no drain either. I was going to drain and replace the coolant but there doesn't seem to be a way. It seems to have a double radiator system too with about 4 inches in between.
I got a flush kit but with no cap I'm stumped on using it, can I just remove the overflow bottle cap and let it over flow there? How would you get rid of excess water then?
Thanks for any guidance in these matters.
You have found what I found out back in the 90's with my GMT400 Sub...the OEMs
no longer make much of anything anymore and outsource it.
Timken saw that and worked up these new hub assemblies to address this new direction
from their customers...the automotive OEMs
The hub/bearing/ABS sensor is all one these days on most vehicles and is to be
replaced as an assembly.
Even if you do find the individual part numbers, they can't be ordered as they
are not offered but as an assembly
Here is a clicky to one of my posts on these new hubs:
The no radiator cap is for the OATs and HOATs. Mainly due to O2 (oxygen) getting
in there when you check fluid levels. Mainly due to the 'O' (organic protection
whatever it is) and the 'A' (acid to etch the metal clean for the 'O' to coat
and protect). Since not all the acid is used up in the initial fill, it is still
reactive to any O2 that gets in there. Toss in some dirt and you have another
chemistry process brewing in there.
Yours is HOATs (hybrid organic acid tech) and GM is OATs (organic
acid tech) and is for the 5yr/100K warranty. I don't like these and
went back to American Green on my GMT400 and will do so till American
Green is no longer available or become too expensive vs OATs/HOATs.
The old 'over flow' bottle is no more just an over flow, but is now pressurized
as part of the hot tank side of the radiator.
It is now the 'fill' access or remove the radiator hose and fill via that.
To check fluid level, you just view the fluid level through that bottle's translucent
Here is a clicky to my DIY reverse flush kit that is copied from buddies radiator/AC
shop's EPA mandated system. The only difference is that this DIY does NOT have
a recycling tank. You have to take that bucket to the recycling center
Here is the image on the HOW2
Am not a RAM/Cummins person...just generic OATs and HOATs answers...including
suggesting getting an IR heat gun early on this thread (about 1.5 weeks ago)
Flushing will only get the liquid out...the mineralized stuff is still in there...along
with the acidic globs
Also, it's no longer silica coating (like millions of mini tiles over
laying), but an organic coating. I have no idea how it reacts to H2O
mixed with O2 and over the long haul (days to weeks)
DexCool Flush - Chemicals or no?
Think chemicals can get all this stuff out? passivation or replacement
is the only way
Electricity damage (electrolyte and makes a battery inside your cooling system)
All very old news...just that the OEMs closure of the radiator on 'most' cured
the O2 intrusion for most...I'm not able to NOT check my coolant often...just
the way I am...
Note that OATs and HOATs do NOT do well with some of the 'cleansers' and MUST
be totally flushed out BEFORE putting in the new coolant charge
Very BAD things can happen in there and won't notice it...till too late...other
stuff will be taken out ($$$$)
My advise is to go to a 'good' radiator & AC shop. No amount of cleanser will
get the acidic globules out. Maybe rodding it out, but no chem's will do the
job right...and...they will leave nasty chem's in backwater places if not flushed
Note to the OP...there are radiators and then there are radiators...think just
shopping via 'cost' will getcha an El Cheapo radiator
Things like number of rows, oval vs round vs oblong tubes, numbers of fins per
inch, whether the fins are brazed on or just slide on, the quality of the materials,
and a BIG ETC
Part of that BIG ETC will include the intank coolers for engine oil and ATF.
How many fins do they have? How big are they (length)?
Ditto the other coolers...mainly heater(s) cores.
Finally, if contemplating DIY...gotta get a set of flare nut wrenches for the
ATF lines (some no longer need them and have quick connects...on that make
sure the new radiator has the right hardware and fittings)
(edit)...O2 in with OATs or HOATs only takes days to weeks to do it's
nastiness...how long has the OP been opening his system up to change
out part by part?...
Also, since found in the main radiator...it is also already in the
rest of the cooling system. Engine block, heads, etc...why said almost
lost my big block back in the late 90's...
It's the whole package...not just any one attribute
Length does matter. More sail area as noted and longer lever arms to work AGAINST
Weight does matter. On the higher class TV's, their frames are bigger, their drive
trains are bigger, their brakes are bigger, and a big etc....to manhandle the
trailer. On the trailer side...heavier has more for the TV to manhandle and
the greater weight on longer lever arms will impose more or higher forces on
PS...what the heck!??? with the latest popup on the left side? Not a popup, as
my popup killer doesn't see it as a popup...seems to be party of the page window
itself...the 'x' button works for a few seconds, but it reappears
Plus it shrinks my web page so that the real content has to be scrolled over to
seen the ends of the sentences...a real pain
If I was interested in that stupid blue MH..I'd go and do a search. Ditto
any of the other: "RV's, Camper sites, rentals, used MH's, etc"
Understand the need to make money, but this is onerous. Let me view it once and
then click on the 'x' to kill it for the WHOLE session...
My point is there are many "experts" on this forum that discount pretty well all 1/2 tons for towing anything more than a pop up.
Whether you have a 1/2 ton or larger, and you are towing within the rated capacity of the vehicle, that is all that's important. Who are we to judge.
and my point is that this 'half ton' is best towing a pop up
3.08 diff ratio
Extended cab or crew
Smallest small block
6 or more speed automatic
With a FGAWR of +3 K and RGAWR of +4K, along with that 3.08 for MPG
Toss in their family, dogs, ice chest, fire wood, toolbox, etc and it's going
to be close to their +6K GVWR BEFORE hooking up
This is a very REAL scenario, as it comes up all the time on this and other forums
Then someone will come along with: "sure you can, I have a half ton too and have
been doing that for decades to thousands of miles with no problems", or some
such...and is exactly what that OP is looking for and thinks a done deal...
(edit)...also say: "decide if you believe in the ratings or not...if
not then do whatever...if yes, then read up and learn how the ratings
I wonder how many automotive engineers lurk around these forums with all the forum experts. They must feel pretty inferior.
It's rather odd that the engineers are way off base with the 1/2 ton ratings. But those same engineers that rate the 3/4 & 1 tons, got it right. :S
Because in most instances, out of context, as there are many/many/many
different "half ton's" out there
Which half ton are you talking about?
The +6K GVWR class?
The +7K GVWR class?
The +8K GVWR class?
Then "try" to have a decent discussion on which one, as most think they
are all the same..." it's a half ton"...
Technology folks seem to be out to lunch to the non-techie folks
who are taking about technology...and easy for me to spot...as these
non-techie folks normally only refer to the marketing info, not the
real ID...AKA GVWR/GAWR/etc
Received several PMs asking about that...one guy mad as a wet hen and
going to sue that one adviser who advised: "Sure you can...I have a
'half ton' and have no problems"
First, told that one guy it is worth the price paid on a freebie forum
Second, that advisor does NOT have a regular 'half ton', but the fake
+8K GVWR 'half ton'...providing advice to a lurker who has a +6K GVWR
'half ton'... Key difference in that case is that the +6K GVWR 'half ton'
has a RGAWR of +4K lbs and the +8K GVWR has a RGAWR of +6K lbs...
That lurker burned up his diff following the 'half ton' advice provided
here so often...
(edit)...that advisor now seemingly gets it and has added the marketing
suffix/modifier/ID of "HD" to the 'half ton' badging...also not to be
confused with the other marketing nomenclature: "Max tow" or "HD tow package"...etc
Suggest you also find out what type of driver, what they drive, where they drive, etc
to get context into any recommendations for this type of product
Koni's are my fav, but can't or won't budget that for my SUV/Trucks
GREAT for any of my cars...well maybe not for the Mini Van...it can't
handle like that to 'need' Koni's... It's torsional rigidity isn't
high enough to be able to use such good performance shocks
How long has the engine been under a non OEM tune?
6 years is about right if put in early in it's life...that 'extra' power over and
above OEM comes at a price, IMHO
Consume the OEMs design margins...
Like that guy who posted a thread titled "Arrogant" claiming that OEM ratings
are nothing to pay attention to...to then post a thread about how he was
embarrassed that his diesel was being passed towing uphill by 'half tons'...
Wonder if he understands that he consumed his OEMs design margins by going over the
OBTW, the wheels won't fall of instantly when over the ratings...but they will
PS...one reason why the OEMs no longer have 'erasable' memory...so
they can tell if the OEM program has been changed...
Also why I recommend NOT going a hair past 5 years or 100K, whichever comes first
Actually flush every 2-3 years no matter American Green or OATs/HOATs.
More so if you open the cooling system...OATs and HOATs systems are
NOT meant to be opened but to flush
That $28/gallon price pales compared to an engine rebuild...
$28/gal is only one reason I dislike OATs and HOATs so much....mainly
that it was invented to fight the foreign badges coming out with
5yr/100K warranties. American Green has also crept up in price...maybe
due to reduced volume and/or gouging because the can match
OATs and HOATs pricing
Dealers did NOT want to have to flush coolant during warranty, so toss
out American Green for OATs and HOATs
The organics that coat are not totally consumed during the initial coating
cycle. Nor are the acids totally consumed during that initial cycle
Both react to O2 in the system.
Okay as long as it is held in suspension WITHOUT O2 in there.
Once O2 gets in and reacts with the O & A, it forms acidic globules
during a cooling phase...which is mainly inside the two radiators...the
main engine coolant radiator and heater
If you can see it, it is bad, but worse is when you can NOT see it
Usually in the core not seen via the filler neck (notice that many
radiators no longer have a radiator cap) and will plug the core where
the cooling air is best (not at the perimeter, but centered)
The OP's ability to touch sections of the radiator and feels 'cool'
says to me, that his radiator is plugged.
I almost lost my 7.4L because of that. Kinda sorta good in that I found
that there are several classes of fan clutches. Installed a severe
duty and it helped about a month, then it came back...over heating
Finally read up on OATs and HOATs to learn how it works. Many on this
forum said I was nuts and lacking in understanding of how it works,
but this thread is another potential proof...if it does turn out that
the OP's radiator is plugged. Tough to now find those kinds of articles,
as OATs and HOATs are now the standard.
Either have the radiator rodded out, or a new one installed
A 'good' radiator should have a even temp drop from the hot tank towards
the cold tank.
Not spotty, which says plugged tubes of the core
Why recommended flushing, but that was before the OP said temp gradient
I no longer advise newer vehicles to consider switching to American
Green anymore. The rest of the cooling systems are now so complex,
best to leave them to OEM or better components/materials
Toss in the myriad of sensors for the computer's feedback...too much
that can potentially get screwed up.
Just remember that both the engine and automatic has it's main safeties
tied to temperature. Meaning power mode all the way down to limp mode
are tied to temperature set points
(edit)...air in the engine is indicative of a very poor design...though
there are some out there...
Plus, the flow rates normally flush out the air that does remain
during a fill cycle.
Hope the OP and others wanting to learn what the heck or HOW2 now sees that, that
MTWR is totally out of context without the other metrics or attributes to the
whole towing ratings system
Many of those attributes are not shown, nor understood but for a few
who took the time to find out...or stumbled upon.
Then go back to a forever comment: decide if you believe in the ratings systems or not
If not, then do whatever, but know that you have taken the OEM(s) off the liability hook
If yes, then read up and learn how it works. Plus note that there are many, many
ratings systems. Some by the OEM and others by regulatory agencies
Rick, if the 3% is correct...totally UNACCEPTABLE for this type/class of product
More so when this class/type of product has life and limb on the line. Not just
the drivers/passengers, but others around them
My back ground is 1st career in industrial controls and 4th in computers. All
of my careers involved potential life and limb for their intended applications
All had AQL (acceptable quality level) in the 0.X% or 0.0X% range
A washer/dryer/toaster/etc 'might' have an AQL of 3%, but that is
another class/type of product... Even the power windows in our TVs
would be 'okay' with a 3% AQL...etc other non-life and limb potential
components/systems in our TV's
Personally thank you for your perseverance and willingness to take
the flake from blind loyalists and TOTALLY agree with your comment that
so many think it only happens to the other guy... :S
"....unique piston design...."
MonoMax also has a unique piston design...Edelbrock IAS's ditto and even has to
have the shocks mounted "upside down" from the traditional orientation
Because IAS's employ a 'rate of change' valving and the piston has be the one
moving...not static on a traditional mounting orientation...but they have
a high percentage of leakers...because of the pressurization working on
an 'up side down' orientation...
Then questions on the piston dia, hardened, etc, etc, etc THAT
ARE NOT mentioned on most marketing blurbs
On another thread where shocks were in discussion...went to the Bilstein
Here is their marketing verbiage that really says nothing. I also like
Bilsteins and have nothing against them...just that they too play the
marketing game...as they all have to because it works so well
on the herd
Bilstein B6 shocks
What sets them apart: Bilstein B6 shocks are designed with a mono-tube gas-pressure construction that provides increased traction and improved vehicle stability on the road. These shocks have been tested under extreme road conditions for maximum durability, precise handling, accurate steering, and superior damping capacity. Bilsten B6 shocks are also fine-tuned for enhanced road safety and exceptional ride comfort.
Bilstein 4600 shocks
What sets them apart: Like their brothers B6 and B8, Bilstein 4600 shocks also boast of a mono-tube gas-pressure construction. What makes them a cut above the rest, though, is their unique piston design that provides higher sensitivity while delivering superior handling, optimum performance, and enhanced ride comfort.
Where they fit: These shocks require no modification whatsoever to your vehicle. They are specifically built for daily and off-road use. Great for enhancing the suspension system of stock height trucks, vans, and SUVS.
Ok, they both are gas pressured, Mono Tube, and one is for SUV's, trucks
The rest of the verbiage is out of context without either head to head
comparison and/or a spec sheet that has columns comparing to others
Then the: "blind brand loyalty" thing...
Marketing works very well on the herd...
Anyone ever strip off the marketing verbiage to find that, that ad said nothing?
Makes no difference which badge, which country, what it is...even toaster ovens
I'm a technologist and *LIKE* to read specifications...detailed specifications
and even then...find marketing influences there too
With all the opening of the coolant system...suggest the OP get the litmus paper
kit to test for O2 catalysing the HOATs into acid globules
Or just flush the whole system to start fresh...but if the root cause
hasn't been found...repeat is highly likely...