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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 644 matches.

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RE: attn: Weight Police

Gotta touch on this...that busted pickup...if they were withing the 'actual' weight RATINGs...the OEM would be on the liability and warranty hook...that is how the RATINGs system works 'Actual' as within the specification ratings *AND* the fine print modifiers...
BenK 11/27/14 10:30am Tow Vehicles
RE: attn: Weight Police

I'm not arguing and re-admit to never hearing of the ability to register above the OEM's GVWR. I accept that Here is where it is almost semantics...what the LEO's enforce vs whatever the definition of RATING is Family member and buddies are/were LEO's. From state highway patrol to local police. We talk about this stuff often. They 'can' enforce the OEM RATINGs, but their management has higher order business for them to enforce. One did and is cousin Sargent in Highway patrol. He did carry portables and also called in the 'truck' with bigger portables....but...only what he considered outrageous setups. He quite because of these things and those two accidents (one to his officer, other baby body he found underneath the dashboard) that messed him up for a while On RATING...unless folks have been on product design teams, or associated with their process...have no clue on what an OEM goes through before being *ALLOWED* to publish their specifications and in there are their RATINGs. That regulatory agencies are involved. Both in requirement of MINIMUM specification and CERTIFICATION that the product does meet those MINIMUM SPECIFICATIONs. There is a 'contract' between the buyer/owner and the OEM in reference to the specifications/RATINGs. Warranty is one aspect. Liability is the other and is the biggie Below thread by BigToe is all about the potential liability of a product. Lucky no accident came of this overload situation, but if there was and injury/death...who would be at fault? The OEM of the pickup? Nope, betcha their spec/RATING was exceeded. They are off the liability hook..even warranty hook. If injury/death...who would the DA charge?...not the OEM... Also, the LEO's wouldn't have pulled this fella over, as betcha their PSI on pavement was within whatever they are enforcing... This is what RATINGs are about. Warranty and liability offered by the OEM of the product. This is a legal position...I've been hauled through that system too many times...hard knock schooling that continues... Story behind F450 pickup frame failure? (photo) http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o53/ib516/Foldedford.jpg width=640
BenK 11/27/14 10:21am Tow Vehicles
RE: Synthetic oil

Started using synthetic years ago. I was running a lot of engines on the farm. It was easier to to run synthetic as it saved labor having less changes. I did not take a chance and used oil sampling. The end result though was a lot more miles our hours on the engines. I do recommend using oil samples if you are "....trying to push it...." Kenneth, Isn't that the truth of these threads :S Trying to push it, but then use lower spec components... :R but again, the gap between dino and synthetic has gotten smaller, but there is still a gap. Guess have to say 'which' synthetic vs 'which' dino Lost on many is that some high end spec synthetic...Exotics, Vette, etc...anyone wonder why? Been using synthetic since was in college and one quart cost more that my part time job's hourly. $3.50/hour and one quart was $5.00 bucks I even use synthetic in my lawn mower, tiller, etc...with MolyB additive. Have on all of mine and it's not the ICE that wears out on them first... Ditto when still owned (partnered) on the boat and it's outboards. I'd use synthetic on my 2 cycle, but a waste as it's just in there a very short while to then be ignited Ditto on my guns...with MolyB additives :B Dino diesel's in my adult air guns...synthetic doesn't...any guess as to why on the same gun? FYI, dieseling in an air gun destroys the piston/seals/etc in a hurry Synthetic lasts longer on my fire arms when in storage, why? Know because if I forget to for a while, the next cleaning/maintenance has little to NO coloration left on the cloth...dino did when I used to use dino Bottom line: I'll continue to use it. You folks use whatever you wish {edit}Got a couple of PMs asking why I don't use testing...I keep my vehicles for decades. Love not having monthly payments and dislike greatly the price of new. For the $28 bucks, it'll pay for oil/filters. I KNOW when it's time to rebuild and many times it is a "gosh darn" gotta rebuild...where is that catalog...
BenK 11/27/14 09:41am Tow Vehicles
RE: Synthetic oil

Jeremiah, It's not about blowing up an engine, but 'wearing it out' and that is subjective Take a compression test to tell if the rings are worn, but won't tell if the valve train is or not. Performance is what is reduced and some can't tell the diff, while others can You can blow up an engine if the lube hasn't been in good order (both schedule and materials), but some don't blow and just make more noise to then blow up sooner than later Can tell when the engine oil needs changing on my Sub's 7.4L. It starts to consume (doesn't consume a bit between regular changes) and the dash oil PSI gauge is low and fluctuates. Still doesn't consume at +163K very HARD miles Every wonder why most folks take care when buying used? Part of that has to do with the previous owner(s) maintenance (intervals, materials, etc) and how they drive. Why some have their mechanic check it out and one of the things most mechanics do is a compression test. Boils down to personal preferences...I'm on the synthetic side and change sooner than later. I keep my vehicles for decades and decades Folks who trade every few years really don't need to worry about this Even towing heavy. Their downstream owner should worry...
BenK 11/26/14 09:50pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Synthetic oil

Dino is getting better, as are synthetics since I started driving in the 60's. Synthetics has higher temp ranges, but dino has closed the gap...still a gap though So are the vehicles, plus they demand better oils today because of the higher stress levels they attain All of the OEM recommendations are for the MAXIMUM length between oil/filter changes. Now noodle this: why are there two or more maintenance schedules from all OEMs I've ever read manuals on? Normal duty cycle and severe duty cycle. Some call it heavy duty That the severe duty has shorter change intervals...why? Now noodle who are on these forums...like Tow Vehicles Are these folks 'normal duty cycle' folks or better stated users of their vehicles? How about the various engine oil analysis firms? They test for metals, coolant, H2O, acids, etc Do you know which metal they look for and want more of? Zinc (ZDDP and the variations) is the main component that helps increase lubricity. Changes under heat and pressure to become a phosphate glass film on both mating surfaces to NOT allow it to go metal on metal'. This is the main ingredient that is consumed by tough duty and is the main ingredient whether dino or synthetic A delicate balance, as the lower the activation temperature, the faster the “Zinc” reacts to form this film...but it poisons CATs. So, for 'street' oil reduced Phosphorus content and volatility to protect the SMOG components/system. This has lead to higher change intervals and longer SMOG comonent/system life span and is for 'regular duty' cycles Engines pushed HARD needs to have the 'Fast Burn Zinc' to protect and has a shorter change interval. This is what the Boy Racers use. Racing oils also has little to no detergent's, dispersant's, etc. Because they are NOT meant to be left in there long. NOT a good thing for street use When to change, and what kind of oil is subjective to the usage, engine architecture and the biggie...driving style. Why I add powdered Molybdenum Sulfide (<2 microns) and now Tungsten Disulfide. Tungsten is even better than Molyb. Plates both surfaces for when it does go metal to metal. <2 microns because I use filters that are good down to 5 microns, so it's not filtered out. Another why PTFE isn't a good thing in ICE's On that, metal to metal...designed to NOT when in specifications of the engine/tranny/diff, but in the real world...it does go metal to metal often enough to actually wear. For if it NEVER went metal to metal, there would NEVER be any wear As usual...there is no one size fits all. Folks take this kind of stuff as out of context absolutes. Decide where you are in reference to the OEMs specifications and whether to use the 'regular duty cycle', or 'severe duty cycle' or whatever Synthetics do have a higher spec, but dino has been closing the gap for years...there is still that gap between'm... Maybe someone will discuss 'dry starts'...so many don't believe that over 40% of ICE's wear is from dry starts...
BenK 11/26/14 09:00pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Ok - this decision has changed to 3/4 ton or 1 ton?

Even a higher class pickup can be over loaded...so pay attention to the OEM's ratings... Story behind F450 pickup frame failure? (photo) http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o53/ib516/Foldedford.jpg width=640
BenK 11/26/14 12:51pm Tow Vehicles
RE: attn: Weight Police

To the OP...'R' in the various acronyms refers to 'RATING' and hope you understand what that means Also, 'recommended' or 'recommendation' on the various OEM's manuals has more meaning to it than most asking your type of question understands Say, take engine oil change intervals. Either specified mileage/time or by the on-board computer. Go past them on a regular basis and have an engine failure...."TRY" to get warranty on that blown engine You are 'free' to do whatever you want...until you do something to take something away from another. In the blown engine vs oil change interval...you would be taking money away from the OEM and the OEM will NOT part with their money in that case All of these 'decisions' are just risk management decisions...AKA Gambling... That is your choice and 'right'...but if you should ever cause damage/harm to someone else because of your decision...then there is a price to pay. Both to society and that owner/person I'm not policing...there is no metrics to do so on these freebie forums. Just advice and many who don't like some of the advice...dismiss and/or reduce the value of those advisors with a derogatory moniker
BenK 11/26/14 10:22am Tow Vehicles
RE: attn: Weight Police

The ability to register any vehicle at whatever weight you are willing to pay is fairly new to me Please confirm that when you've registered your vehicle above the GVWR specified by the OEM...that the DMV's registration number has a "R", not just GVW. That 'R' is 'RATING'. Was told on another thread on this portal, that there is NO 'R' in DMV registration weight...other than the OEM's various 'R' ratings snip... It is mainly for licence purpose. Plus in the commercial world there are big rule differences between a 10,000# GVWR and a 10,001# GVWR. In a Fleet vehicle you can have a 10,000# GVWR and under and you don't need a DOT# on the truck and anyone can drive it. If you exceed that number then you need a DOT# on the truck and the operator has to carry a medical card. There are other rules and regs but you get the picture. If I'm not mistaken, at on time (and it still may be true IDK) but you could order a SRW F350 with a 10,000# GVWR.
BenK 11/26/14 09:48am Tow Vehicles
RE: charles_1947, did you....

So far, he's batting .666 and wonder how many Marty and Barney has closed of mine???
BenK 11/25/14 09:48am Tow Vehicles
RE: 4 wd vs 2 wd

There are several 2WD or 4x4 threads running now...check them out AWD is all wheel drive and typically only one speed transfer case 4WD can be AWD or 4x4 4x4 typically has a 2 speed transfer case. Some full time, others part time FWD is FRONT wheel drive, not necessarily 4x4 If you have to ask...don't get it...you'll know when you want/need it
BenK 11/24/14 02:12pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Ok - this decision has changed to 3/4 ton or 1 ton?

PS...have driven two neighbor's pickups. Both have the same model Lance slide in The RAM is a 2500 CTD 4x4 with stock 16 wheels The Ford is a F350 V10 Super Duty 4x4 with after market 19.5's Both feel about the same, but the F350 also tows a utility trailer (alu V nose), which I've not towed But...their Lance slide in's are HUGE...the OP should be looking at much smaller slide in's
BenK 11/24/14 02:09pm Tow Vehicles
RE: SUPER Dodge Truck!

My guess is that spacer between the bed and cab is to allow using the 'standard' bed without having to design and build a longer than standard bed length
BenK 11/24/14 02:03pm Towing
RE: Ok - this decision has changed to 3/4 ton or 1 ton?

Most of these things and ratings are taken out of context Like the MTWR (Max Tow Weight Rating) from most any OEM will have the test using a stripper model TV (no options, except for the tow option), one driver weighing in at 150 lbs (I was 150 only in my freshman year in HS). The 'trailer' is a flat bed with NO frontal area (it is lower than the TV...there is a picture and I'll dig it up later and repost here) That 'stripper' model is the 'curb' weight model. No 4x4. No AC. No power windows, nor power locks, nor power seats. No 2nd and 3rd row seats. No extended cab, nor crew cab, etc. No optional sound system. No upgraded interior. Etc, etc, etc Only two that I know of own strippers. Our Admin, Marty, and my dear uncle Bill who taught most of this stuff to me. He used to laugh about the ratings using that one driver at 150 lbs. Uncle Bill was a huge Dutchman with flaming red hair and at 5'8 weighed over 250 lbs of pure muscle (no fat on his body) Here is a diagram showing how the WHOLE system looks like. The interactions of each component/sub-system. How taking any ONE rating without factoring in the others is to take that out of context http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/howmuchcanItowdiagramB4.jpg width=640 howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow My Suburban weighs in at around 7,200 lbs with me in it (180), toolbox (+200) and misc stuff My MTWR is 10,000 lbs, but that is with a 6,000 lb curb Suburban and one 150lb driver. I'd have to loose 30 lbs and unbolt over 1,200 lbs of 'stuff' (options) in order to really or actually be 'RATED' MTWR...and maybe 40 lbs after the holidays... :B My Calif SMOG certificate says my Sub weighs in at around 5,200 lbs...so another 800 lbs to unbolt...
BenK 11/24/14 01:35pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tow Mirrors for 2004 3/4 ton Suburban

Curious why...anyone know? On GMT400's, there is no difference between body parts. The difference is below the body in the frame/drive train/suspension/etc What changed on the GMT800's and GMT900's ? Don't they still used the same bodies between'm ?
BenK 11/24/14 10:17am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ford announces 2015 F150 Harley Davidson edition

Jerry...no different from the vehicles available to anyone today Take my 2000 Odyssey Mini Van. Soccer mom vehicle bought used It runs up to 100MPH easily and is where the speed limiter cuts off It also accelerates better than anything or most anything available in my teen years (60's). The ones that could back then...made a a fuss in doing so. My Odyssey just runs up to the limiter and floats along Ditto today's TV's. My 1980 Silverado, in stock form, had a tough time getting up to 100MPH. IT boils down to the drivers risk management decisions (gambling). If it can, they will...
BenK 11/24/14 10:12am Tow Vehicles
RE: Trailer Plug Won't Stay In

Ditto...fix it or replace Connectors of this type are designed to mate repeatedly First check out if there is something 'in' there, or worn bit of plastic If me, I'd replace as DE and others recommends. If you are not handy in this area, then any trailer/UHaul/etc can also do the replacement On this type of thing, I'd not spare pennies and get the better one. They all have have the same form factor, as that is an industry standard
BenK 11/24/14 09:28am Towing
RE: Ok - this decision has changed to 3/4 ton or 1 ton?

What are the cons of a larger pickup? Gas mileage? First, understand that most pickups within an OEM family all use basically the body that has some trim differences What is larger/bigger is what is underneath that body and that is the frame, drive train, suspension, etc Think of the body as an egg with holes cut out for the windows and doors. Unibody or monocoque is what that is and is carried on top of a step ladder (why truck frames are referred to as 'ladder frame') with rubber cushions (dough-nuts or bushings) to soften the jarring Now 'larger' is in the ratings because of the 'bigger' frame, suspension, tires, drive train (engine, transmission, drive shaft, differential, etc) So it is 'taller' with the same body as the half ton pickups Take my Suburban, a 3/4 ton. The 1/2 ton has the exact same body, but mine sits +2 inches taller because of the beefier ladder frame, drive train, suspension. Mainly the thicker ladder frame rails. Since things are beefier, they weigh more and therefore takes more energy to move and stop. So MPG is less If MPG is on top of your have to have list, then get a smaller truck and camper This is why everyone has said to get the higher rated TV or get a smaller slide in camper Also, with a slide in camper, they are tippy in adverse conditions vs towing a trailer. Why some have advised getting a dually (four rear tires and much wider)
BenK 11/23/14 02:21pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tow Mirrors for 2004 3/4 ton Suburban

Thanks and wonder if that 1999 fitment also work on my 1996? Both are GMT400's Some day...knock on wood...I'll need replacements and these look like the ticket $155 Ebay
BenK 11/22/14 04:37pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Ford announces 2015 F150 Harley Davidson edition

Does it have the leather saddle bags option ? :) and does this cost more than the Mike Rowe Edition?
BenK 11/22/14 04:34pm Tow Vehicles
RE: attn: Weight Police

First...there is no policing on any of these freebie forums, other than for rudeness/foul language/etc "Weight Police" is used by those who didn't like the advice they got and is a derogatory employed to toss that advice away until they hear what they want to hear Your ratings are set by your TV's OEM. The only way to change them is to have 'your' vehicle re-certified by some company/person/etc who has license to do so. Then have it registered that way both with DMV and your insurance You can do whatever you wish. This is a free country...until you take away some else's freedom. Then our system takes away 'your' freedom in some fashion Folks outside of the engineering design team will never know what the difference is. Nor will the OEM ever tell. Just guessing otherwise by outsiders Those ratings and specifications on labels, manuals, brochures, etc are the basis for the 'contract' from the OEM to the buyer/owner/driver of 'that' vehicle Best way to know where you are in reference to 'your' ratings is to go out and actually weigh your TV axle by axle. Then do the simple math vs the ratings for your vehicle I've go over sized tires, on over sized rims and some tweaks of my own, but my GVWR/GAWR/GCWR/etc are the same as when I took delivery of it brand new My front axle GAWR is 4,250. Rear GAWR is 6,000. AAM who supplied my axle to GM rates it at 10,000 and have seen 11,000 GAWR. Ordered the snow plow prep, which got me the 1 ton front torsion bars (springs) So, I should be 'good for' a 5,250 FGAWR as the 1 ton dually which has the exact same front torsion bars, right? Nope, my ratings did not change...unless I also had my TV re-certified and registered I'd love to instantly have my Sub rated for 15,000 GVWR because of the axle ratings 'can be', but nope it is not rated for that Recommend living within the OEM ratings and if you want more ratings, then get a bigger truck that has the OEM ratings you wish
BenK 11/22/14 04:31pm Tow Vehicles
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