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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 422 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: The never ending debate..SRW vs DRW

There are two more aspects separating a single vs dual rear setup Track and number of 10 ply rated (or more) sidewalls Take yourself and let someone push you sideways HARD Once with your feet planted about 6 inches apart Second time with your feet planted shoulder width or more Which one would resist and control that sideways push better and easier... That is 'track' or the distance between the left to right tires on pavement Single will have FOUR 10 ply (or more) rated sidewalls Dually will have EIGHT 10 ply (or more) rated sidewalls Even though they each may total to the same weight carry...one with more sidewalls will have less sidewall movement (roll over, squirm, etc) than the other This is for towing/hauling heavy....car attributes forces compromises and is very subjective to each individual. Like 'ride quality' is not on my 'have to have list' and towards the bottom of my 'nice to have list'... Ditto lack of maneuverability when used as a car. Decide which is more important and is subjective to the individual There is no one size fits all and campaigning for/against is trying to convince someone otherwise to their own needs/wants/etc...
BenK 03/26/17 11:23am Towing
RE: Brake question on a homemade trailer

Just note that surge brakes only work moving forward They will engage going backwards, but in all conditions going backwards. Why they or most have a lockout so that you can move it going backwards
BenK 03/25/17 10:19am Towing
RE: Tekonsha P3

Unplug my P3, stuff it into the carry case and put it into the toolbox or store it in the garage electronics/testers/etc toolbox ETrailer Q/A, How To Turn Off The Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Brake Controller # 90195 Question: I have the P3 brake unit. I dont pull very often, how do I turn it off other then unplugging. asked by: Brian Expert Reply: The Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Brake Controller, # 90195, does not have an on and off switch. It will go into sleep mode after several minutes of no activity. The power draw when it is in the sleep mode is so negligible that it will not discharge the battery. If you want the brake controller totally off, then you would have to unplug the connector from the back of the controller. expert reply by: Jeff D
BenK 03/25/17 10:13am Towing
RE: Improving suspension on 2010 Expedition

Finally some miles underneath the IRS system and have been watching/waiting for this type of topic/response The OP has a 3rd gen Expedition. FYI, 1st gen had a live axle with multi control links...2nd gen had IRS with control links...3rd gen has IRS and a 5th control link added Always wonder hos the precision bushings would last and if the Ford Engineers sized them for towing heavy, or just for 'car' like usage. Time would tell... Also knew the Ford Engineers addressed the towing heavy forces on the main control arm by angling that main control arm. Not the typical square to the direction of travel like cars do for their IRS Again, that still has heavy towing forces on those precision bushings...even with that angled main control arm...time will tell how they last towing heavy (add hauling heavy too) The need for precision bushings vs 1st gen live axle is because on all IRS vs live axle...has the tires ability to in different directions (even small angles) on a worn bushing IRS vs rigid live axle that CAN NOT go in different directions (angle is set by welded metal) So is the looseness the OP mentions from worn bushings? ON the rear Anti-Lean bar (better name than anti-sway on a towing form where it gets mixed up with the WD Hitch system anti-sway bar)...hope you folks understand how they work and how torsional rigidity of the platform in reference to handling at the extreme behaves Hope you folks understood to change out the front anti-lean bar to match the OEM engineers who dialed in under-steer. If didn't change out the front anti-lean bar to match...you might created a higher rigidity on the rear axle...whereby it will load up the outside radius tire more than before That then creates a snap transition to over-steering and with a trailer in tow...a higher jack knife potential
BenK 03/23/17 12:20pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tahoe, Yukon, Expedition, or Armada to pull 32' TT

That 9,000 lb tow rating is based on the curb, 5,732 lb... Unless you have and are going to tow with a "curb" weight Armada...Your true max tow weight rating will be less...By the weight amount over the listed curb....
BenK 03/22/17 03:42pm Tow Vehicles
RE: The never ending debate..SRW vs DRW

Many times...A narrow vision response begets a response that may create an unexpectEd component Yes, dedicated vehicle will do better and if not dedicated...Will have compromises.... Traction on pavement vs slippery conditions has a flotation vs penatration aspect to it...That has speed, edges, etc factors So if an all round vehicle, decide which compromises you wish to live with...And..Manage them while driving
BenK 03/22/17 03:16pm Towing
RE: SUV tow vehicle

Wait a bit longer and this OP will get the answers (opinions) looking for: "sure you can", "been doing that for years with no problems"...etc My opinion comments embedded below in bold red I am thinking about a 2017 GMC Yukon XL Denali it has a 6.2l V-8 with a tow capacity of 8,200lbs. That tow capacity (MTWR, max tow weight rating) is based/derived from a curb (stripper model) vehicle with one 150lb driver, tow option, and WD Hitch system weight My travel trailer is just under 10,000lbs. Even if your TV has no options (curb, or stripper model), it is NOT rated by your OEM to tow that It 'can' tow it, but not for long and the OEM listed performance metrics will be degraded/lessened. Plus, if still under warranty, dont expect the OEM to provide warranty...and...liability lasts FOREVER to the OEM...unless the owner does not follow recommendations/ratings/limits/etc... What is the general consensus of the SUV pulling my camper? as stated...you will be getting the 'sure you can', 'been doing that for years with no problems' comments soon from that portion of the herd But know that they will NOT stand behind you if something goes south...they won't pay for any damage/accident/etc, nor will they support you in anyway...only the driver is responsible for it This is a freebie forum/site, so no one has any skin in the game...me too, but gotta sleep at nite based on information/advice/etc *I* provide, so I say follow your OEM's ratings/specifications/limits/recommendations/etc... What happens if I was to do this combo? Depends if and/or when Mr Murphy crosses your path...either you have the proper setup in reference to your TV's specifications/ratings/limits/recommendations/etc or not...spot on...no time to go back to the store for bigger/better/etc Will I have a real issue? Again, depends on if/when Mr Murphy crosses your path...anything 'can' tow most anything...it is the ability to manhandle the situation when Mr Murphy crosses your path
BenK 03/20/17 01:57pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Hitch Issues

Brand new, so not wear n tear, nor gunked up with solidified grease/grim/dirt/etc... Think, or check out that the latch is adjusted properly and/or that it moves out of the way when un-latched The coupler dome for the ball has the front (towards the TV) 'capture' the ball below the equator. Meaning that the opening is smaller than the ball The rear of the coupler dome does NOT and is for the ball to move backwards towards the trailer and drop out of the coupler dome. The latch provides the interference below the equator of the ball The ball also has a flat spot on the top and is to allow the ball to move backwards, away from the front of the coupler dome. Some coupler & latch setups just barely allow enough room for that flat spot to move backwards Just some thoughts on what could be happening...first check to see if the latch gets out of the way completely and adjust if needed...but still allow it to capture the ball confidently...
BenK 03/20/17 11:16am Towing
RE: What has 3 rows and can pull 9K?

It is all in the specifications and here is the link to your TV: Ford 2013 F150 First, decide if you believe in the OEM's ratings/specifications/limits/etc or not If not, then academic this If yes, then read up and learn how all OEM ratings/limits/specifications/etc work. It is a system and note that most only take one spec to then think it applies to all conditions and models....it does NOT The GCWR is listed in that Ford.com site above Find it for 'your' TV Then take the MTWR (max tow weight rating) for 'your' TV and subtract it from the GCWR. The will/should be close to the Curb for your TV, plus the tow option, WD Hitch system and one 150 lb driver. Fluids can range from 1/4 to 1/2 to full The actuary tables list the 'average' American at 150 lbs and is based on old, old tables. Coast Guard has increased theirs to 180 lbs for their rating of the number of passengers that vessel is rated to carry...updated because if that vessel rating is exceeded...folks drown and die...while a TV will just break down and coast to the side of the road in most situations... Then load up your TV as if ready to tow and weigh it, axle by axle That total TV weight subtracted from the GCWR will NOT be the curb weight of your TV... Since most TV's have options, driver more than 150 Lbs, has passengers, cargo, pets, etc...they typically weigh more than their listed curb...meaning the for ever pound more than the listed curb...it takes pound for pound away from the listed MTWR That is covered with these weasel words in fine print at the bottom of all the ratings/limits/etc charts: "Maximum capability when properly equipped"....meaning a curb (stripper model), one 150 lb driver, tow option, WD hitch system... Don't forget as well that tow ratings reduce pound for pound with weight added to the vehicle. New ratings include 150lbs each for driver and 1 front passenger. Anything else added reduces the tow rating. Wait. What??? Someone please explain or fact-check this statement. So you're saying that a vehicle that has a 1700 lb payload capacity and 7000 lb towing capacity ACTUALLY has only a 5300 lb towing capacity if payload is maxed out (7000 minus 1700 = 5300)? That's how I am interpreting what you're saying, but it seems odd at best. Please clarify your meaning. -Speak
BenK 03/19/17 02:31pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Can't get unhitched!

If you still haven't gotten it un-coupled...ask if the ball has a flat spot on top? If no flat spot on top, it will either be tough to un-couple or unable to release the ball from the dome of the coupler As stated in my last post here, that dome's front (towards the TV) goes BELOW the equator to capture the ball and the rear portion of the dome does NOT, but has the latch form the rest of the dome below the equator Here is a typical tow ball with a flat spot on it's top...that is to allow the ball to move backwards after the latch is released http://www.erde.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/50mm-us-style-towball-530-p.jpg width=640 and here are three different types of latches and their cross section. Note the rear portion of the dome is about where that flat spot will slide past to release from the front of the dome These do NOT show the ball's flat spot http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/couplercrosssectionwildaknet.gif width=640 This one does show the flat spot on top of the ball http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Couplerpawlnitroowners.gif width=640
BenK 03/18/17 12:28pm Towing
RE: Can't get unhitched!

Check out this thread: Receiver hitch won't latch. Help! And as noted by Old-Biscuit in that thread...disassembly the latch assembly as a last resort... :B Curious...what WD Hitch system are you using? One places a ton of force on the latch assembly and if you have that one...could be a worn/busted latch assembly Here is a link to a thread on another latch issue and pictures of the most common latches to maybe help you solve your issue Hitch binding up trouble Maybe a visual of how a coupler and latch works... Here is an old thread with diagrams showing how a coupler works... Boiled down...a coupler has a dome with a 'return' on the leading edge's bottom edge That leading lower edge 'holds' the ball inside the coupler and the latch holds the ball forward...in side of the dome with the lower edge (below the equator of the hemisphere) so the opening at that point is SMALLER than the diameter of the ball... To have the ball come out...the latch must be loosened to allow the ball to move backwards If it does not come out, it is either still stuck via suction and/or it is still in the front of the dome...that the latch is not moving backwards far enough (worn or improperly adjusted latch assembly) To allow the ball to move back out of that captive dome section, the ball has a flat spot milled on top. So it will clear the top portion of the dome that comes 'down' to help capture the ball Why backing up does the trick on most situations...it moves the ball out from the front of the coupler dome... rv.net/forum WDH Hitch Ball Angle Issue Most common coupler latches http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/couplercrosssectionwildaknet.gif width=640 Another type of coupler latch http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Couplerpawlnitroowners.gif width=640 {edit}...Note that if you have an Anderson WD Hitch system...it wears out the coupler latch assembly. That Anderson warns a certain type of latch assembly for use with their WD Hitch system https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/q/u/qu37021_800.jpg height=400 width=300 http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/howtos/1064a.jpg height=300 width=300
BenK 03/17/17 11:22am Towing
RE: Towing a Coleman Popup with 2013 Grand Caravan

Good input and add to make sure those 13" dia tires are in good order and AIRED up to the max listed sidewall spec Plus PUP's, IMHO, are more sensitive to nose high sway and must be kept nose level or down slightly...after fully loaded and dialed in
BenK 03/17/17 11:19am Towing
RE: Trailer Brake / Brake Controller Question

Barney, that is the best you can do given the circumstances of trailers today... From just barely large enough axle ratings to the just barely good enough wiring system (from gauge, to connector, to routing, etc) and the trailer brakes themselves Am known to re-adjust my trailer brakes several times during the trip, as they wear down past my liking. Since borrow trailers, those who loan theirs to me have been taught to have brand new rebuild kits in the trailer and/or I'll do a brake job before taking their trailer out Miss the loss of local brake/clutch rebuilders. Now gotta accept whatever the parts counter has behind the counter...
BenK 03/14/17 11:20am Towing
RE: brake controllers

News flash...your cell phone employs a modern accelerometer...ditto personal pedometers, etc use solid state accelerometer chips Old, old, old pendulum types were the best of it's time, but that time has come and gone... On my windgenerator (am good up to 350KW) brake design (48" dia cast iron disc brake), found that hydraulic pressure sensors leaked too often, but that was the required spec Moved to our industrial hydraulic sensors used in our steel rolling mill controls and found that they also leaked over time
BenK 03/14/17 11:13am Towing
RE: Tekonsha P3 and Electric over Hydraulic brakes

Is the factory trailer brake control disconnected when you installed the P3? If not, then maybe both are trying and confusing each other
BenK 03/14/17 10:55am Towing
RE: Trailer Brake / Brake Controller Question

I expect my vehicle brakes to go to 100% whenever I press the brake pedal all the way down to max braking...and...expect my trailer to do so too If I can NOT get 100% braking from my vehicle, then there is something wrong...and...ditto for the trailer But...rarely do I press my vehicle brakes to 100%, except for an emergency situation...and...ditto for my trailer The majority of the time, brake in the 10%-40% range and do go higher when driving aggressively and/or boy racer moments...but withOUT the trailer Controller levers has a range from ZERO all the way to maximum, with a long range in-between Setting up will go to 100% of the levers range to test and setup, which do each time getting ready to tow a trailer that has brakes Again...ask: "do you folks go to 100% braking each time you press your brake pedal?"...and assume just academic, as most do NOT...right? So, why does these questions always point to going to 100% for each trailer braking session? PS...I do test my vehicles braking all the time and mostly get ABS to initiate, but am guessing most folks NEVER do so and expect their vehicle's brakes to be capable to go to 100% when needed
BenK 03/13/17 11:01pm Towing
RE: What lock not to use

There is a reason 1/4, 3/8,1/2, 3/4 etc socket sets are NOT made of aluminum...even hardened military grade aluminum...nor are grade 3-5-8 fasteners... Lower tensile strength metals are EASIER and CHEAPER to machine/forge/cast/etc...and are NOT as tough as hardened high alloy steel Again...locks, etc just keep honest folks out and just slows the baddies down... Telling the many, many types of locks out there...telling that there are folks out there stealing trailers...do they keep them, or do they sell them?
BenK 03/13/17 08:38pm Towing
RE: What lock not to use

X2 Old-Biscuit is smack on target. Add that many of these types of security things only provide the mental security lots of folks are looking for
BenK 03/13/17 11:59am Towing
RE: Can you overload a dually?

Below additional images taken off the net that has also been posted many times before...telling just about where the frame will break when overloaded This guy uses his pickup as a tow truck and of course overloaded often Most always at the stress raiser... Obviously you can!! Sheared the frame at the front leaf spring mounts!! The tongue extension on the trailer just made things worse!! Markhttp://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo199/MDarrough/15226318145_6a7dae65eb_z_zps4imhd9i1.jpg~original height=480 width=640 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/site1078.jpg width=640 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/site1076.jpg width=640 This band aide works for a while, but the root cause is still there...often usage overloads this pickup http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/site1077.jpg width=640
BenK 03/13/17 11:39am Tow Vehicles
RE: Trailer Brake / Brake Controller Question

I'm on the side of MUST be able to skid the trailer brakes Many say don't worry about the TV's braking ability for the WHOLE setup, as the trailer brakes take care of the trailer... Well...only if it can skid the tires for an emergency braking moment...and/or the controller is capable to do that Since most trailers weigh more than the TV, its brakes MUST be able to do so...or else they will push the TV during a hard or emergency braking moment So ask if anyone would accept that their TV won't/can't skid the TV's tires ? Sure today most all have ABS, but that is the point of braking isn't it?...to be able to maximize the braking for that emergency moment when Mr Murphy crosses your path Yes, I don't own a trailer and most likely won't...as many church members offer theirs to me...knowing I'll tune it/fix/etc for them too...but because of that metric...I've touched many and improved most...there are a few will never touch again, as they could NOT be improved without major work Mainly the condition of their wiring harnesses & brakes
BenK 03/13/17 11:27am Towing
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