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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 1033 matches.

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RE: I'm confused - Suburban 1500 tow up to 7,500 lbs?

Here is how the ratings system works and looks like in graphical form Find the TV & TT ratings...then plug them into the simple math formula...tough part is gathering the info... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/HowmuchshouldItow.jpg~original width=640howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow
BenK 05/05/15 11:20pm Tow Vehicles
RE: I'm confused - Suburban 1500 tow up to 7,500 lbs?

Answer to the PM for everyone else here too Say that the OP is looking at at Half Ton SUV with a 12,500 GCWR It is a 7,100 lb GVWR SUV with a 4,250 RGAWR. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating and Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating It has a 7,500 lb MTWR, Max Tow Weight Rating But, that fine print on the brochure says 'curb', or 'base' or some such TV. One 150lb driver and 'necessary' option (tow option) & WD hitch Take the 12,500 GCWR minus the 7,500 MTWR = 5,000 and that is the vehicle/driver/option/WD Hitch/etc they used to derive that 7.5K MTWR Now take someone planning to full time for half a year or more They will need everything they need/want loaded into/onto both the TV and TT That 7,100 GVWR TV might then weigh in at close to 7,000 lbs...but that means the MTWR is bogus, as the MTWR is based on the 'curb', or 'base', or 'stripper' that weighs in around 5,000 lbs and the TV actually weighs in at 7,100 lbs So there is a 2,100 lb difference and that difference needs to be subtracted from the 7,500 MTWR = 5,400 lb as it's 'true' MTWR What I mean when say the MTWR is taken out of context. Or that folks take it as an absolute (meaning in all cases no matter what the TV actually weighs) In the example above...if the TV actually weighs in at 7,000 lbs BEFORE Hooking up, then it says that TV only has 100 lbs left for the tongue & WD Hitch system Of course this assumes believing in the ratings system. Also, this thread is for used trucks. The ratings numbers are for new or those still in the warranty period Depending on how the previous owner(s) treated the vehicle, it might still be good for it, or not...
BenK 05/05/15 03:33pm Tow Vehicles
RE: I'm confused - Suburban 1500 tow up to 7,500 lbs?

Does me saying we are leaning towards the Clipper sized trailers (GVWR 3,500 lbs) change the conversation at all? That is half the tow capacity of the 1500 Burb. I understand there is more than just factors than just "will it pull". So with using half capacity, is that manageable for all aspects of the tow (engine, brakes, frame, etc.)? I have nothing against 2500s, just not as many. They are either beat up trucks or high mileage in my price range. One more bit of clarification on the MTWR that is referenced on this thread and on most all other threads... The published MTWR is derived from a 'base', or 'curb', or 'stripper' model that most times is NOT offered for sale. Closest would be the utility, tradesman, etc for construction or commercial use Meaning no options, but the tow option, one 150lb driver, tow hitch and a mixture of full fluids to half to whatever Meaning that unless you have the 'stripper'...that published MTWR is bogus for your vehicle. There is fine print in all of the publications that tells of this...but with tough to understand verbiage Also, there are half tons and then there are half tons...they range from +6K GVWR up to +7K GVWR to even the fake half ton's +8K GVWR They all will have a +4K RGAWR and the fake half ton will have a 5-6K RGAWR Even though just two for now, but full timing for months...means that you might have both the TV & TT loaded. Loaded TV many times will NOT have any rating left for the trailer, or it's tongue weight
BenK 05/05/15 12:04pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Is a reflash of the ECM necessary

Now that all new or late model vehicles (cars to trucks) are more akin to our computers/laptops/etc...they should provide updates and fixes for free...just like any good OS provider I've had updates from MicroSoft show up a few times in ONE day during some nasty whatevers are floating out there On that...wonder when the first virus/worm/trojan/etc will show up on our vehicles... Especially those that connect to the Internet themselves. Even the ones which we manually connect to the Internet will soon, if not already be exposed... Now wonder when the anti-virus firms will start providing software for vehicles... {edit}...just thought of the issues that came up and continue to come up for after market...none OEM products. From hardware to software...how will they behave with the OEM software... 'Blue screen of Death' is NOT acceptable for any vehicle...
BenK 05/05/15 09:09am Tow Vehicles
RE: I'm confused - Suburban 1500 tow up to 7,500 lbs?

GM's family of full sized SUV's are based on platforms Mine is a GMT 400, next is GMT 800 (2000-2006), GMT 900 (2007-2014, I think) and current is GMT K2xx (xx for each different end product...pickup/SUV) link to Wikipedia, GM GMT platforms A Tahoe is a Yukon. A Suburban is a Yukon XL. Half ton SUVs are Tahoe, Yukon and Yukon XL. 3/4 ton SUVs are Suburban and the new Yukon XL, based on the Chevy Suburban. Starting with the GMT 900, they dropped the 3/4 ton altogether Best to avoid market badging confusing...best to use their true ratings: GVWR, GCWR, FGAWR, RGAWR Forget about MTWR, as that is based or derived from the curb or stripper model After gathering their true ratings, then the comparison is on an even playing field without confusion Add rear diff ratio, as that affects the *TRUE* MTWR Here are my 1996 GMC Suburban's : GVWR....8,600 lbs GCWR...10,000 lbs with a 4.1 diff ratio FGAWR...4,250 lbs RGAWR...6,000 lbs....this is where the biggest difference is. 1/2 tons are in the 4,000 range Engine size and type is a personal choice. As they all 'can' do it. Some easier than the other and why I ordered the big block. If MPG is at the top of your have to have list, then it will work harder towing heavy/inclines/altitude/etc. If performance and ability to manhandle the setup, then the lower MPG will manhandle the setup much easier towing that same heavy trailer Most of that info is on the drivers door label...except for the GCWR. That is the tough one to find. Generally, it is in the neighborhood of "curb" + "MTWR" + misc My Sub's curb is listed as 5,400 up to 6,000. MTWR is 10,000 with the 4.1 diff The generic formula to figure which to get is: GCWR => TV + TT + Misc You will find mostly half tons, as most order them as 'cars' (the new station wagon, mini van) and MPG is high on their have to have list. Rare will be the 8,600 GVWR, but they are out there. Think you would be best served by a GMT800 8.1L Sub or even the Yukon XL (same platform). There is an Avalanche that is based on a Sub and a few 8.6K GVWR's out there 19 years old and still looks pretty much the same...the main difference is that the fender flares need repainting http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Bens1-1.jpg~original width=640mysub mysuburban
BenK 05/04/15 08:06am Tow Vehicles
RE: Maxxis tire failure

Think of any vehicles FRONT tires on pavement being 'twisted' by the steering wheel...all the while not rolling (moving) PLUS pushing that tire sideways with very large forces The tread will try to stick to the pavement and the wheel will twist the tire sidewall It is no wonder tire tread plies separate more often Think low PSI exacerbates this... Doesn't happen instantly, but over time and depends on how often the driver does this...on good pavement...toss in after running for hours on HOT pavement...then at the site...maneuvering in... "The only thing that would stop this "twisting" action would be a differential on your trailer axles and they dont need that" Maybe there is something I don't understand but how would a differential stop the "TWISTING" ? Well actually you are right. Since the wheels turn independently a differential will not help the tires rotate at different speeds from one side to the other. By twisting I meant the wheel variation in turning and flexing. I was using it more like the aircraft wing analogy just to illustrate something... I admit it was not well written or explained. But the rest is valid. It's common and nothing to worry about.
BenK 05/03/15 11:01am Towing
RE: Maxxis tire failure

Am NOT a tire engineer...just my opinion on this one I change out all ST class tires on my trailers over to LT class. Expensive, as the wheels also need to be changed (in most cases) Am not of the philosophy that the sidewalls MUST be stiff to resist this force and why I like LT radials of HIGH aspect ratio as I can find Down side is that the trailer will have a higher tendency to wiggle the side walls and I've managed that with the highest ply rating and keep them aired up to max PSI Bottom line is that all the trailer suspensions I've ever looked at are El Cheapo NONE had shocks
BenK 05/03/15 10:40am Towing
RE: 3/4 Ton Trucks Will Flip

Ever more important with todays highly integrated computing system...it needs to know what tire is there Don't know if they need dia and/or revs per mile to calculate whatever decision it needs to make Traction control, sway control, trailer control, steering control, tranny gear selection, AND control who knows what else... Even 4x4 control...if you have it... Ben Via smartphone phone...excuse my fat finger typos
BenK 05/02/15 03:39pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 3/4 Ton Trucks Will Flip

Darwinism doesn't work well enough...nor often enough...
BenK 05/02/15 12:03pm Tow Vehicles
RE: A Rig from Can-Am RV crashed

Why is it when I click on the link, all I get is a blank page? Either your have Adobe Flash blocked in your settings, or Flash is out of date and your browser has it blocked. Or, if you have a Flash blocker installed as a plug-in, simply Right-click and play or start Flash. X2 !!! All of the browsers on my work station, laptop, iPad Air, and smart phone are setup to 'ask' for permission to run these things Assume as did Bryan that your browser isn't accepting those flash cookies (durable, persistent, super cookies). Allow them at your own risk each time you allow them... I did allow for this one, but too many PDF's to weed through, so didn't read any of them
BenK 05/02/15 12:01pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Maxxis tire failure

Toss in questionable manufacturing (not that China can't, just that the purchasing contract too often spec's out 'cheapest...at any cost') and the usage ST class are fairly low cost too For trailers, especially heavy trailers with multi axles...will have them see a very different stress than on a TV or any vehicle with steerable axles In tight turns or maneuvering...the trailer tires will be forced to scrub or turn without rolling much...if at all in some instances. Anyone ever notice the sidewalls being forced to twist while the tread tries to resist? I have while helping guide folks into tight camp grounds, or at the parking lots we meet up to form a convey. The sidewalls are twisted like crazy on some I think all of the above contributes to the so common tread separations we hear about and I've eyeballed Add poor suspension (most with no dampeners) and that they are bounced into all kinds of stuff that the TV most likely will miss Am not a fan of the mandated TPS systems, but for a trailer...that is where I'd install a set
BenK 05/02/15 11:54am Towing
RE: RF Shield Pouch for key fob

Anyone know how they get into one who has lost a key ? Can tow truck guys or lock Smith's make a new one ? Then how much ? Do they them have to make two...because the mate to the list one now is programmed out by the new fob ? My auto club allows a Coyle if free keys...per some period...Think per year...Will my auto club pay for a replacement fob ?
BenK 05/01/15 08:55pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 3/4 Ton Trucks Will Flip

Wonder if way taller late models from all OEM's to appease the fashion statement crowd contributed to this? Much higher...therefore higher CG...so tip over easier
BenK 05/01/15 08:48pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Un-Hitching

Some couplers have a deeper cup portion of its dome...see picture That designed in to hold the ball captive in the done during all maneuvers. The latch holds the ball up in that cup portion of the dome. Note that that portion of the dome (cup) has a lower hemisphere....meaning it has a smaller 'hole' than the balls dia Think your ball us still in that front portion, or cup and will NOT allow the ball to drop out Why I always block the trailer tires...unlatch...THEN BACK UP to move the ball out of the coupler dome cup... As mentioned...maybe your latch is NOT getting out of the way...adjustment might or should get the latch out of the way These pictures might help you see that 'cup' and how the latch Pawlenty has to get out of the way excuse my fat finger typing n spelling...auto spell/fill on my smart phone begets wacky spelling http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/couplercrosssectionwildaknet.gifcouplerlatch latch couplerpawl pawl dome http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Couplerpawlnitroowners.gif
BenK 05/01/15 08:36pm Towing
RE: RF Shield Pouch for key fob

Why my wallet has an RF shield No different from the likes of anti-virus/Trojan/worm/etc utilities on your computer...anyone have anti-virus on their smart phones? Oh yeah...many think that kind of stuff only happens to the 'other guy'... :S :R
BenK 05/01/15 02:28pm Tow Vehicles
RE: New Ram owners; you may want to know this:

1996 GMC Suburban SLT (highest option package)...19 years ago... OEM key fob could wirelessly open just the drivers door lock or all four door locks, or just the rear tailgate hatch. After market alarm fob had, IIRC, sockets for six relays. $60 bucks for each relay...plus labor Options were to open each door individually, rear hatch, open each door window individually, start it remotely...or one button to open all four door locks, or one button to power all windows (either up or down) or open/close each window independently At $60 x six = $360 bucks just for those relays and the $$$$$$ labor to wire them in (more, as I spec'd ring lugs...so they had to remove each terminal screw and replace each) Just told the installer to unlock all four door locks and paid for one relay There was another optional module to have a proximity sensor to set off the first level alarm, up to full alarm...with another optional module for the 'voice' warning to "stay back"... Remember, this was over 18 years ago and the most "Whizzy Bang" stuff available at that time...that is now OEM stuff My point is lost...as most here do NOT keep their vehicles long enough to wear out with this type of usage.
BenK 05/01/15 02:19pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Understanding the Anderson "No-Sway"WD hitch

"Tinker"...AKA "common sense" is extremely rare... :B
BenK 05/01/15 01:51pm Towing
RE: Maxxis tire failure

In a way...but as in a card game...knowing the odds helps make that decision... If only one deck...heck many decks...if I see lots and lots of low numbered cards come into play...what are the odds that higher numbers or face cards are going to show up soon... Everyone for themselves and manage your decision on this with whatever metrics... I've personally had too many ST class tires go bad...whether on my stuff or others in my group go south...
BenK 05/01/15 01:46pm Towing
RE: Excursion wheel advice

Personal opinion...use anti-sieze on my lug stud/nuts *AND* on the hub centric surfaces that touch I don't live in areas like so many here that has salts used during the winters, but have serviced too many that came from those areas...plus some locally who skied often up at Lake Tahoe Rusted on that needed to be torched to loosen and a few which needed torched *OFF* That alone is reason enough for me Here is the engineering of it...been decades since I actually had to calculate the clamping force...so had to refresh myself. Fastening is not just shear but the biggies is clamping force holding stuff together. The formula to figure clamping for to hold things together...like the wheel to hub via lug stud and nut has a 'co-efficient of friction' as a component and is a constant that represents the mating surface conditions. Rough, smoother, smoother yet to greased...which is ZERO So the smoother the mating surfaces...the greater the clamping force using the same dia and torque...rougher the mating surfaces...has less clamping force using the same dia & torque Vibration is another factor. The steel wheels have a coined (at least the good ones do) hole and think of a Belleville washer providing higher/constant tension to hold against vibrating loose Alloy wheels will have the lug nuts either 'V' tapered or shouldered with either a washer or nut flange. These shouldered should have a barrel that carries the weight against the alloy wheel hub hole. Less expensive alloy wheels will or might have a counter sunk for the washer to 'shoulder' against Here is a link to one site that educates HOW2 figure the clamping force: Estimated Fastener Bolt Clamp Force Torque Calculator This is referenced in the above link Fastener and Screw Torque Design and Equation and Calculator These are simplistic, as they do NOT factor in the bolt grade (AKA Tensile Strength), but close enough for this kind of discussion...with my assumption that all available studs and nuts are of proper grade... Here is my example if using anti-seize on my stuff and note the hub centric ring that wore off the anti-sieze (brake drum, not my alloys) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Brake/09200017rdcd.jpg~original width=640SubHub Stud Anti-sieze http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Brake/09200009rdcd.jpg~original width=640hubcentric http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Brake/09200008.jpg~original width=640hubcentric http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Brake/09200007.jpg~original width=640hubcentric http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Brake/09200006_rdcd.jpg~original width=640hubcentric Also note the hub centric ring on the front axle hub...that both the lugs & hub centric ring carries weight...if non hub centric wheel, then the lugs carry *ALL* of the weight http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Brake/018_15A.jpg~original width=640hubcentric anti-sieze
BenK 04/29/15 11:38am Tow Vehicles
RE: Understanding the Anderson "No-Sway"WD hitch

Here is a copy of my first impressions & diagram made up back in 2012 I still believe that it is NOT a good idea to place all of the towing forces on the coupler latch, but know am in the vast minority... Time will tell and mainly for the higher weights. A PUP should not have as big an issue...unless the latch is then down sized for the lighter PUP... I've been towing and around towing for decades and have seen coupler latches that were not trust worthy...again for me...in traditional usage. Based on that and my design background, I'm not going that route...again for *ME* New Andersen WD hitch, 51 pages This is a quick and dirty vector diagram of how I see it working http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/AndersonWDhitchvectordiag1.jpgandersenforcediag Even if there is NOT slop (tolerance) in the coupler to ball...there will be over time. Then the wear of the friction material will allow the tapered shank to tilt back and forth over time. So in pulling the chain, it pushes the tongue against the ball via where I say the pawl is. That then creates the same lever arm most all other WD systems look like. Then the TV pulls and the ball wants to go towards the coupler front (away from the pawl). Then does the ball bang back and forth inside the coupler? {edit}...ops...put the bushing on the wrong side of the tongue bracket, but think you guys know what I meant. It is really difficult to see how it truly works without detailed cross section diagrams or exploded assembly diagram Go Brady !!!...home town kid just up the street from me This is the report back from one of the first users on this forum First tow with Andersen hitch & 9,000+ lbs TT
BenK 04/29/15 11:14am Towing
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