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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 545 matches.

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RE: Only 2 of the 9 SUV's passed the safety crash tests

Boils down to personal choice...some more informed than others... ;) As long as they allow EVERY one out on the same playing field...there will always be or potentially large deferentials... Think of any NFL game that allows anyone...everyone in the stands to mozy out on the field among the +300 lb players who are wearing armor. That *IS* about what we have been talking about...maybe having some skin in the game vs in-animate objects might help some to see what we have been talking about. Sure the 150 lb guy will be able to out run and out maneuver a +300 lb tackle...but all it takes is to not be able to *ONE* time... I'll not ride in the Fiat 500, but do occasionally ride with buddy who drives a Mini. Maybe the 500 in pure city traffic with no more than 35MPH, but surly not out on the freeway Know am at a disadvantage in my 2 seater (when I've found time and $$$ to restore it). As it is about 2,400 lbs with me in it. It has an about <7:1 weight to power ratio, racing brakes, etc...so can and does get out of the way of many potential accidents...by definition...an accident is an accident and hope I'll survive Why my two kids first ride was the Silverado listed in my sig. Eldest was rear ended while at a stop light. Destroyed the full sized sedan which rear ended her and also destroyed the full sized sedan in front of her Our Silverado did need a new rear, passenger box side and frame straightened She got a bump on the back side of her head and luck she had her hair in a pony tail There is not one body panel that hasn't been dinged/dented/hit/etc and proof of my decision for a full sized pickup as their first ride Helps that it has 33/12.5R15LT load range C tires, which are about 6 inches taller than the OEM's 27" dia 'P' class tires. So all of the accidents has had our Silverado ride up on them. For those who less informed...then the Consumer Reports/R&T/Car-n-Driver/etc the best source for their decisions PS...Turtle has way more patience than I do...cuz am bald from both the green/red/purple/blue hair teen years of my girls...and pulling them out on these forums... :C
BenK 04/19/14 03:27pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Re-Wiring the brakes.

It's only going to be as good as the weakest link in this food-chain and that will be the connector between the TV & trailer I'd get a NEMA 4 junction box with a 30amp minimum terminal block mounted on the inside. That TB needs to have 'U' jumpers to tie several terminals to become the hot and ground...plus the control lines for the rest of the trailer Then from that point you can decide spider (wagon wheel with it the hub and the points the spokes) or one big lead 'back' there Make sure to use ring lugs and NOT spade lugs. If you don't have lots of experience crimping lugs...practice, practice... Suggest buying your connectors in large, contractor quantities. Especially if you are going to be working on your own stuff. I also buy'm on sale so the per connector cost many times is less than half of list. Here is one of my electrical setups when doing the harness for my Suburban http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/CIMG0029Ringlug.jpg I no longer own a trailer, but borrow often. Some allow me to update their's when I've decided going to borrow often. I use a #10 AWG with a ring lug to their trailer end of the connector Then run one #10 AWG wire 'back' there and then split it to both sides. Since not mine and they won't pay for the install...just a 'thank you' I don't put a NEMA 4 box back there. Just water proof the splice
BenK 04/19/14 03:04pm Towing
RE: Only 2 of the 9 SUV's passed the safety crash tests

just buzzed in for lunch and checking this thread and noticed that my analogy might be lost on many...so this video to show what meant... Notice that when he lifts and drops one ball...only one ball is moved on the other end. Then when he drops two balls, only two balls are moved, etc The kinetic energy is transferred to the mass of balls and only enough to move whatever is transmitted from the same number of balls will be moved Of course there is no crumple zone stuff, but direct and is the basics of this thread...crash transfer of kinetic energy and how that is mitigated via crash crumple zones Newton's Cradle with bowling balls This one guy talks a bit deeper into the laws of physics of this topic Newton's Cradle explained
BenK 04/18/14 02:44pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Shifting into neutral

Illegal in Calif V C Section 21710 Coasting Prohibited Coasting Prohibited 21710. The driver of a motor vehicle when traveling on down grade upon any highway shall not coast with the gears of such vehicle in neutral. Also, in automatics that do NOT have a rear pump...coasting in neutral will have little to no lube pumped to the bearings inside the automatic and will ruin them in a hurry
BenK 04/18/14 02:30pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Only 2 of the 9 SUV's passed the safety crash tests

Forgot to touch on race cars and how they manage deceleration of the body without crumple zones GMCSMOKE is smack on...their crumple zones are with the collapse of parts and the tearing off of parts. Plastic parts (carbon fiber) explode after they consume enough energy Also designed sequencing of failure Meaning that the inner parts might have grade 8 fasteners and as you move farther away, grade 5's and/or smaller margins to have them fail 'first'
BenK 04/18/14 10:47am Tow Vehicles
RE: Only 2 of the 9 SUV's passed the safety crash tests

Legendary Dale Earnhardt's death caused NASCAR to make changes to rules that dictate how to decelerate the body and in his case...the head His impact was NOT very hard, nor going very fast... It can be built like a tank and the vehicle survive, but occupants might not Again, key is the rate of deceleration, or rate of change, for the person (all parts) Just noodle any of the Sci-Fi movies where they jump to light speed in a flash... Unless they have some mechanism to keep everyone inside the vessel from flying to the back of the vessel to become ink spots 'back there'...won't work. No difference between that analogy and a crash...just different directions of 'the rate of change' in speed The rate of change for the body and most importantly the head...the brain from smacking the inside of the skull, is the key to managing a crash Suspend a bowling ball and soccer ball on a length of rope anchored on the same eye bolt in the ceiling The length of rope is sized to have both balls meet in their equator Lift both up the same angle away from vertical to be horizontal Let go of both at the same time When they meet/crash into each other at the bottom of their swing arc...which on will bounce farther away from the impact at vertical? The one with less mass, therefore less kinetic energy will bounce farther away from the contact point.
BenK 04/18/14 10:41am Tow Vehicles
RE: Only 2 of the 9 SUV's passed the safety crash tests

The whole point of crash crumple zones is to decelerate the body(s) inside the passenger compartment to the point that they will survive. Above a certain point in speed/energy...they will die or maimed severely no matter Seat belts hold the body but there is a sudden impact when the slack is taken up. The Air bags then decelerate the head further All the while the sheetmetal is folding up like an accordion. Anyone ever see the crumpled sheetmetal ? Here is what a typical frame rail folded up along the designed in stress raisers http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachments/3rd-gen-t4rs/80730-bumper-talk-arb-crumple-zone.jpg width=600 Similar for a monocoque/unibody, but no frame per say...just the front engine stub rails and body sheetmetal will fold up like this (inside the outer sheetmetal...fender/etc) Notice that if the other vehicle's bumper is either above or beneath this ones bumper...that it will potentially slide over/under this area Here is a monocoque/unibody and it's crumple zone http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6c/Lotus_Evora_front_crash_test.jpg width=600 Ratsf..link doesn't work, so here is the direct address: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6c/Lotus_Evora_front_crash_test.jpg Again, notice that the bumper height important for the stress raisers to do their job On that, notice in this picture of how they test...that they do NOT have a bumper to bumper impact, but to a wall. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4a/FAE_visualization.jpg width=600 another rats...here is the link: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4a/FAE_visualization.jpg That is how the article's rating is based on...hitting corner of a wall NOT bumper to bumper. Their side impact is more real world, as they do have a sled smack (T-Bone) it from the side...but the sled's bumper height also very important As for which is better...smaller or bigger...depends on lots of factors First that the kinetic energy is dependent on both the mass and speed of each vehicle As they both crumple...they are consuming kinetic energy. The rates of consumption dependent on how they are crumpling...or not Once their crumple distance is consumed to now have the solid portion of their passenger compartment become involved...the one with more kinetic energy will impart that onto the event. That will have the one with less kinetic energy lose ground and move backwards...meaning the people in the one moving backwards will then have that kinetic energy imparted on their bodies via: seat belt, air bag and anything else that strikes them Much more going on, but that is the basics of it all...
BenK 04/17/14 07:30pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Towing 7300 pounds with a 1/2 ton Hemi....a-ok??

Break in your new TV according to the glove box manual BEFORE towing anything
BenK 04/17/14 03:48pm Tow Vehicles
RE: New to us TV, Tahoe vs. Expedition vs. Durango?

You are looking at +7K GVWR vehicles...recommend you look at +8K GVWR vehicles
BenK 04/16/14 11:14pm Tow Vehicles
RE: GM suspends two engineers in disciplinary action

You folks need to understand how corporate America works Engineers do NOT have that level of authority Not even middle managers Only high level exec's have that kind of signature authority. They may assign their signature authority to middle mangers, but then they are also accountable for those assigned signatures Signature authority is based on bottom line dollars affected/effected This decision was worth hundreds of millions of bucks...so no middle level manager has that kind of signature authority Agree...these engineers are their goats...
BenK 04/16/14 11:11pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Only 2 of the 9 SUV's passed the safety crash tests

Turtle...common sense isn't as common as most think...soooo...your common sense isn't sinking in... I remember when the first 'econo' cars came out and folks were being killed or maimed from side crashes with full sized sedans... Then came mandated side door rails on all cars...but they were height mandated for the 'average' *CAR* bumper height...that is still the standard and a higher bumper will intrude into the passenger compartment if the bumper is higher Get it context folks...
BenK 04/16/14 11:04pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Michelin LTX M/S

Michelin will void their warranty if ArmorAll is used...they used to recommend 303 but don't know if they still do Think about this: sidewalls flex...a lot and dependent on the load vs PSI ratting factored by MPH...of course on recommended rim width for that tire size Any crack is a stress raiser on the sidewall... My Michelin LTX-MS LT265/75R16E's cracked through to leak down totally from 80 PSI in less than 10 minutes
BenK 04/15/14 10:40am Tow Vehicles
RE: Michelin LTX M/S

Looks just like my last set of Michelin LTX-MS LT265/75R16E's that were just a few years old. Ditto many other sets of LTX-MS and LTX-AT LT class on both the Suburban and Silverado listed in my sig Currently have Bridgestone Dueler Revo LT265/75R16E's on the same Sub and ZERO cracks. Same house, same outside conditions, etc, etc on the same rims, etc, etc. They are about 2-3 years old to boot. The Silverado has Yokahama Geolander AT 33/12.5R15LT load range C and ditto same house, outside conditions, same rims, etc, etc Here is a clicky to the thread the below quote is from: Craised side walls quote from thread: Tire age This topic comes up often and enough from varying folks that to me confirmation that I'm not the only one out there that went through about a dozen sets of LTX's (MS & AT) that initially were fine but around the late 90's Michelin changed their formulation to have them crack... below quote from: Unsafe at any speed.... Thought to post the Timberline crack http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Canon12jan08007SilveradoTireWheel.jpg michelin Tire splitting Posted: 03/03/13 11:04pm Used to be a fan of Michelin's, but no more...here is a link to why below Currently have Bridgestone Dueler Revo LT265/75R16E's on Alcoa alloy 16x10's and are about 5 years old and don't drive my Sub but on weekends to keep things lubed and tires worked. About 12K miles on them and they look very close to new. Best tires and the below quote from that thread Nit, but bought a new bike work stand ($350) and it has a digital scale...my old alu frame bike is NOT as light as thought...it is 17.3 lbs...even with that $350 seat and carbon fiber fork...that old 'precision' fish scale was a bit off... :E Moved that seat to the new Madone 6.5 and IT IS 15.7 lbs, based on that nifty new scale... :B Used to tell everyone who asked to consider Michelin LTX series...fine till Michelin changed their rubber formulation. Quote below shows pics of many sets of Michelin LTX (MS & AT) and my bicycle tires...they all cracked whereas they did not before that reformulation Currently have a set of Bridgestone Dueler Revo's that are about 5 years old. Same Suburban. Same house, same driveway (not garaged), same city, same ambient, etc and they are 'fine' with no signs of cracking whatsoever Coopers are on the mini van and looking good. The Michelin's started to crack and do not know how long they were on there, as bought the Odyssey used http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/post/forum/41/thread/26414210/quote/26420168.cfm Also depends on how long you plan to keep your TV I plan to keep mine till the wheels fall off, then fix it or decide not to I rotate tires on all 4 of my vehicles and even dismount to remount the tires on my single speed bicycles to even out the wear If you change vehicles every 2-3-4-5 years, then moot point. Do whatever If you do keep them longer to need a new set of tires, then decide on what you wish to do with the spare. Dad didn't believe in rotating the spare and when he gave me the Silverado listed in my sig, it had a spare tire that was over 12 years old. It looked 'fine', but it had indications of rot all over it. The on the road tires had been replaced a few times to boot. Here is a thread and pictures of my experience on tires. From spares to on the road sets. Also why I no longer recommend my old favorite...Michelin. Since I no longer own the boat, I do not tow as much these days. Both my trucks had tire rot and the thread linked below shows what happens to tires that do NOT get enough usage. This image is of a Michelin LTX-MS LT265/75R16E's which list $250/each http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0080ltrcrack.jpg The clicky to that old thread which might help folks decide on their usage of their spare tires 1/3 of tire strength gone after 3 years All things age and part of that is degradation of it's strength Like all metal will degrade over time. Steel will actually increase in hardness and become brittle. Organic based materials will degrade faster than coated metal, unless it has been some how altered or enhanced. There are reasons for paint, plating, coatings, waxing, etc, etc... Do not delude thinking that seat belts last forever. There is a lot more safety margin dialed in that it may seem to last forever...but how do you truly know unless you either crash test it or have it tested in a lab...OBTW... a childs seat belts are how wide/thick compared to the OEM seat belts that hold it to the vehicle seat? Anyone ever look closely at any child seat to see if there are juice spills, milk/poo-pee/spit/etc that has an acidic component to it? Yes poo n pee, as diapers do leak, or at least my kids did... My bicycle helmet is only good for a few years. My car and bicycle tires are also only good for so long. The tire on my wheel barrows and hand carts are way old, has cracks on them and know they need replacement...but their service is at how many MPH ? Life and death duty placed on them? Nope, so they are okay for my usage, but have purchased several new ones recently as I'm tired of having to pump them up each time I use them...they lose PSI quickly Okay, can see some self serving opportunistic marketing, but why test it with a potential condition that might/will harm your child or yourself? How much would be saved by not updating it vs the potential of harm to your child? Of the three classes of tires in this discussion, which is the cheapest? Which costs more? Why do you think they have such a cost difference? Check out this thread on tires... http://forums.woodalls.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25105483/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1 And a quote on my opinions and experience on that topic... Update on another set that replaced the Silverado's Michelin shown below...Think ALL of the tire OEM's have changed their formulation on 'P' and 'LT' tires Timberline 33/12.5R15LT load range C on the same alloy wheels as the Michelin's. They have now cracked on the tread area. Here are some pic's. Only drive the Silverado weekends and errands. Don't tow anything other than an occasional utility trailer. Haul tons of stuff...gravel, dirt, fertilizer, wood pellets, wood, etc They are aired up to 30 PSI. Max sidewall PSI is 35 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Canon12jan08012Silveradotirewheel.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Canon12jan08012Michelin.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Canon12jan08011Mich33-125R15C.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Canon12jan08007SilveradoTireWheel.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Canon12jan08005SilveradoTireWheel.jpg Ancillary...my road bicycle tires...Michelin 700C/23 $79/ea. Less than a year old and about 500 miles (have 4.5 bicycles, so the mileage is spread out over them all). Air them up to 110 PSI. Sidewall says 119PSI max. Do run up to 50MPH-60MPH going downhill, but after checking and finding this...am going to check the more often Got doored last week and after the EMT's, Ambulance, and cops were through with me (not hurt bad, just a bruise about 8" dia on the chest)...destroyed the road bike (got it down to just a hair above 15lbs)....min $700 estimate from the bike shop...going to fix as my daily and buy a new road bike...jinxed it...last month finished some mod's, weighed it in at 15.7lbs and said out loud...this is almost perfect http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Canon12jan08016MichelinRoadBikeTire.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Canon12jan08022Michelincloseup.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/Canon12jan08017Michelincloseup.jpg I'm very loyal to what I've checked out, tested (empirical) and low on my list...what buddies/friends/etc recommend (really factored by how much they know, or what I think they know) Was a huge Michelin fan, till about 6-10 years ago when my sets started to crack on the sidewalls Took them in and the Michelin rep accused me of using ArmorAll. Told him no way as the previous rep told me not to and would void the warranty. Named him and described the discussion at Costco. He retracted and said they were out of warranty (time) Used to recommend Michelin truck tires to anyone asking. NO more. This is "MY" experience and know some who still have no problems, but again this is MY experience and recommendation on Michelin 'TRUCK' tires. I still recommend their 'car' tires for 'cars'...not trucks. Here are some pictures of several sets of LTX-AT (LT265R16C) and LTX-MS (LT265R16E...$250 ea list) 4 sets of 5 tires for my 1980 Silverado and 1996 Suburban http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0029LTX-ATcracks.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0033LTX-ATcracks.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0037LTX-ATcracks.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0039LTX-ATcracks.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0040LTX-ATcracks.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0042LTX-ATcracks.jpg Woke up one morning to find this on my Suburban http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0054Flat.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0057Flatcls-up.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0065Flatoffgrndclsup.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0080ltrcrack.jpg Aired them back up several times and they leaked down in less than 10 minutes from the sidewall cracks. Here are some more of different sets...yes, "WAS" very loyal on Michelin till this experience http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0866rdcdAT.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0863rdcdAT.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0856rdcd.jpg And this LT265/75R16E's (first set, second set above pics). Too many sipes for my type of driving...HARD braking testing buddies proto brake pads on one +80 mile session. The tread blocks folded over to feather the sipe edges. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/07220008SubTreMSfeatheredrdcd.jpg
BenK 04/13/14 08:39pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Only 2 of the 9 SUV's passed the safety crash tests

There is a difference and this accident locally telling. As this head on (license plate to license plate) shows the Camry based CUV doing better than the Saturn Vue based CUV Wonder if the one with a higher front bumper is the reason it did better... A single accident is hardly conclusive. Did any of the passengers fail to wear seatbelts? Was the boy properly secured or bouncing around the back of the vehicle like I see so many kids doing? Was the mother hanging over the seat tending to the boy, or just turned away from facing front and in a bad position to not get the protection from the air bags? Seat belts are made to protect you if only you are facing forward and not twisted in the seat. We just don't know enough about this to draw the right conclusion. Agree that the driver of the Chevy must have been distracted in some way to cross over the line and smack the Lexus license plate to license plate Maybe her kid unbuckled, or some such...and why the kid died Crash crumple zones are designed for bumper to bumper impact or into a wall, or some such....and....is what I was talking about...how well the vehicle did via how it looks in those pictures When the bumper heights are NOT even...the one higher will ride up and move FARTHER into the lower bumper vehicle...as indicated by the pictures posted (re-posted below) By riding higher and above the stress raiser-ed 'crumple' sheetmetal...it may and think did on this one...hit something that does NOT have stress raiser-ed sheetmetal...or ride deeper into the lower vehicle to make contact with the passenger compartment Boy killed, restaurateur Cindy Pawlcyn hurt in Carneros crash Napa boy killed in Carneros crash identified http://bloximages.chicago2.vip.townnews.com/napavalleyregister.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/4/60/4609bcc8-bdf6-11e3-8b21-0019bb2963f4/5342032fdc239.preview-620.jpg http://bloximages.chicago2.vip.townnews.com/napavalleyregister.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/9/e6/9e6d684c-be4b-11e3-90ad-0019bb2963f4/53429260a5c3c.preview-620.jpg
BenK 04/13/14 04:19pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Are there no experts that sell trucks?

Why my Suburban is a GMC...all of the Chevy dealerships didn't know squat about trucks Had several deposits with conditional terms canceling if another dealership beat them with a vehicle & get my deposits back. Several came in as half tons...green, red and loaded with stuff NOT on the contract. Sales folks all said what is the diff...it's a Suburban while I tried to explain the contract said 8.6K GVWR Went to a semi truck broker who also sold cars and light duty trucks. That salesman knew more than I did by a bit...but...when my Sub came in....that dealers son took over the deal and had it loaded with a front end bumper guard, extended to cover the headlamps. Wouldn't sign for it till the original salesman came over and had all of that chrome stuff taken off (they had drilled holes in the bumper, so got a new one there too) Most don't know anything spec's...even for cars...other than what sells...HP numbers and maybe zero to 60 number Really in part blame the average buyer...they do not educate themselves well Even here...some senior members still advise that the MTWR is absolute...or that all variations/optioned/etc weigh in at 'curb'... :S
BenK 04/13/14 04:07pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Only 2 of the 9 SUV's passed the safety crash tests

snip.... as far as a roll over, If I had a preference... it would be a Cross Over type vehicle with unibody construction. thanks! Jeremiah Jeremiah, you do know that my 3/4 ton Suburban on a 8.6K GVWR ladder frame has a monocoque/uni-body as the passenger compartment? Most ladder frame pickups has a monocoque/uni-body for a cab/passenger compartment SUV's do roll over easier, as they are higher for both off roading and the 4x4 'stuff'...therefore higher CG Us old timer off roaders know this and understand HOW2 drive them NOT like cars... Some increase the track to help a bit. I've increased my track +10.5" over stock for pavement and my serious off road setup are OEM steel wheels, so OEM track Both ladder frame and pure monocoque/uni-body today has crash crumple zones front and rear. The GMT900 Suburban is a prime example with the stress raiser notches in receiver to frame rail brackets Bigger also means more distance to crumple...therefore more energy is consumed before it gets to the passenger...
BenK 04/08/14 10:05pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Only 2 of the 9 SUV's passed the safety crash tests

Continual confusion on what they are derived from SUV, Sport Utility Vehicle (loved it when coined, now dislike it much now that the fashion statement crowd has over run its sales) and derived from a ladder framed pickup truck (generally) CUV, Crossover Utility Vehicle and derived from a 'car' or monocoque/unibody Both SUV and CUV comes in varying sizes. Full sized pickup, mid sized pickup, full sized car, mid sized car, compact sized car, etc... There is a difference and this accident locally telling. As this head on (license plate to license plate) shows the Camry based CUV doing better than the Saturn Vue based CUV Wonder if the one with a higher front bumper is the reason it did better... Boy killed, restaurateur Cindy Pawlcyn hurt in Carneros crash Napa boy killed in Carneros crash identified http://bloximages.chicago2.vip.townnews.com/napavalleyregister.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/4/60/4609bcc8-bdf6-11e3-8b21-0019bb2963f4/5342032fdc239.preview-620.jpg http://bloximages.chicago2.vip.townnews.com/napavalleyregister.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/9/e6/9e6d684c-be4b-11e3-90ad-0019bb2963f4/53429260a5c3c.preview-620.jpg
BenK 04/08/14 05:58pm Tow Vehicles
RE: what does this mean...truck weights...

Welcome to the forum! Re: gvrw , GVWR Gross Vehicle Weight Rating 3900lbs front axle front GAWR Gross Axle Weight Rating 3900lbs rear axle rear GAWR Gross Axle Weight Rating 6700lbs total assume this is your GVWR and says a half ton There are several more acronyms GCWR, Gross Combined Weight Rating (everything, including the trailer) MTWR, Max Tow Weight Rating of the trailer, but note that it is based on a 'curb' TV, or the stripper model There will be many differing opinions and advice. The only one responsible for the setup is the driver. Us advisors have no skin in the game, nor responsibility for what you do Yes, if your GAWR is 3,900 lbs, then your truck axle is rated to carry 3,900 lbs, and the whole TV is rated for 6,700 lbs This is how the whole ratings system works visually Welcome to the forum ! First decide if you believe in the OEM ratings or not If not, then do whatever and note that you have taken the liability and the OEM's are off the hook If yes, then read up and this quote/diagram should help you 'see' the whole picture of the ratings system(s). Really easy and simple math once you understand both how the system works and some of the terms which are to be followed or are meaningless Then figure out which advisor believes in the ratings or not to base your decision using their advice http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/howmuchcanItowdiagramB4.jpg width=640 howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow That your wheels won't instantly fall off if over loaded...just sooner and that your PERFORMANCE will be reduced Above quote from this thread: Trailer Weight Calculations & Load Estimator Utility...five pages of discussion The OEMs use 'stripper' models (curb or dry) to derive the ratings The only way to know for sure where you are in reference to those ratings is to actually go out and weigh the whole setup axle by axle So many folks have a hard time understanding and/or accepting that the OEMs do this and in reality the OEMs have no choice because of the buyers who only look at the brochure numbers/ratings. To decide their purchase based on the 'King of the Hill' comparison numbers No one knows you and how you pack. From nothing to taking the kitchen sink plus the dog... :B So you can do the simple math using the GVWR's (the rated maximum of both the TV and the trailer). Some will argue never will reach GVWR to some who will advise it's okay to exceed because they designed in 'safety factor'....which is true...but how much and will you reach that? Good luck! Above quote from this thread: Lots to Learn
BenK 04/08/14 11:34am Towing
RE: Drilling Chrome Bumper

WHOA WHOA WHOA Ben!!!!! didn`t you read the sticker on the hitch? "do not cut, drill, weld or modify"! ;) Kevin, you are absolutely right !!! Let me explain and apologize to every one Yes, there is a label on most all stating exactly that and it is mainly for the torque tube (cross member connecting the two end brackets that then transfer the torque to the frame rails) Drilling, cutting, grinding, etc will create a stress raiser on the torque tube. Think nicking your fiber glass fishing rod...it will break sooner than later on that stress raiser Also, but to a much lesser degree on the end bracket where I drilled I noodled it and the stress raiser on the end where I drilled is not high and that the torque tube was welded 360* to the bracket. The type of forces on the bracket are distributed over the square hole they punched and then welded 360* I decided it was okay, but forgot to noodle advising someone else who is asking this type of question. As indicative that they do not have metal working background/training/etc for this type of work My apologies for not addressing the potential misunderstanding and potential failure that could lead to
BenK 04/07/14 11:55am Tow Vehicles
RE: Drilling Chrome Bumper

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/CIMG0034Finished.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/CIMG0033Finished.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/CIMG0032Drillbrktmtgholes.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/CIMG0031Snakdthroughgardenhoseinsul.jpg
BenK 04/06/14 10:43am Tow Vehicles
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