I have to agree with CapnDan and others who advise to build bigger. I originally was going to build a smaller building, but I wanted room to grow, and to stora a boat as well as the RV. I talked with several builders, and found the perfect match for us. He did an outstanding job, and now, 3 years later, I could not be more pleased. We ended up with 36x48, with 16' ceiling; 16x14 pull-thru doors, and 6" reinforced concrete pad.
I took out a permit myself and did the electrical, and subbed out insulation and sheetrock (5/8"), and paving. I really like it, and recommend you consider building larger than you think you need now.
Bought a fancy White detector about 10 years ago. Only used a couple of times. Some of those fancy programable units really burn up batteries. If I purchased another detector I would be looking for longer battery life over the super duper features. Mine used either 4 or 6 D batteries. Been so long ago. Burned up 2 sets on one day use.
I agree' some brands burn through batteries like******though a goose! I found the Fisher F2 lasts somewhere between 30 and 35 hours (it takes 2 9v batteries), and I have got as much as 40 hrs.
My Garrett Ace-250 uses 4 AA's, and they seem to last 25+ hours. Expect shorter battery life when you detect using the built-in speaker. That's another reason I like to use detector headphones.
My wife uses a Tesoro Cutlass II, which she has had for 10 years. There is no meter or digital display, and it is only a single tone machine. The Ace and F2 are multi-tone machines, so the tone (hi tone, medium or low) indicate the type of metal it is detecting. But the advantage of the Tesoro machines is they are lighter (about 2.2 lbs compared to almost 3 lbs), andbattery life is even greater. Tesoro's also have a lifetime warranty.
We've been detecting for many years, and have used a variety of machines. Fisher has been in the business the longest, and they make excellent detectors, with 5 year warranty. At $200, the Fisher F2 is an outstanding machine, for land-based and beach detecting. The next one up in the F-series lineep is the F4. Same electronics, but comes with a double-D coil instead of a concentric coil. A little better able to discriminate in trashy areas, would be the main difference.
Garrett Ace 250 is an excellent and popular detector, and is the direct competitor to the F2. About $215. Same turn-on-and-go presets as Fisher, and also user can tweak settings to suit the conditions. 2 year warranty, but excellent reliability and customer service. You'll see Garretts being used on that popular metal detecting TV program.
Garrett and Fisher have built in speakers, and 1/4" headphone jacks. ALways best to use the headphones, to hear the faint (deeper) targets, and not annoy others around you. Garrett's Ace-350 is their next model up, and like the F4, comes with a double-D coil.
These are the detectors I would suggest to look at, as you will find them easy to use, capable and reliable. Other brands have similar products at somewhat higher prices. Let me know if you have any other questions, and happy hunting.
This is the one I have. The only problem with it is that it makes the GPS lad when finding satellites. Instead of a second or two, it takes upwards of 20 seconds to find satellite with the cam on. Video is perfect. Don't need a big $ item.
How long have you been using it? BTW, that same unit seems to be Here for a few dollars less, and with a 60 return policy as opposed to 14 days
I never understood why some manufacturers have you put slides out before leveling. If the coach has a high or low corner, the body xould twist enough to cause the slide to bind, when extended. I have always leveled first, and then extend slides. My leveling system uses 4 hydraulic jacks. Maybe those with only 3, are different?
This product has a planned launch date of not quite 4 years from now. Why would they even put that out there?
There is, however, something I am really looking forward to, that's not quite 4 years from now, but it's not this. :)
Can't help you with the LLC or Calif sales tax questions; left Calif many years ago, and Delaware doesn't have a sales tax. Well technically we don't, but we do have to pay a 3.25% "vehicle transfer fee". But welcome to the forum, and welcome to a wonderful lifestyle in family RV'ing. Memories your family will have for a lifetime.
Two years ago I answered a call just as I was about to have dinner. I know that was a mistake, but I was expecting a call from a family member in Norway. It was a telemarketer, selling mortgage re-fi's. I politely asked to be removed from the list, as I was not interested, and was on the NDNC Register. He laughed, and said "do you know how many times a day I hear that?". I asked to speak to a supervisor. Another voice gets on the line, and says "Yea?". I repeated my request to be removed. He said, "ain't gonna happen, DUDE".
His arrogance about ruined my appetite. Since I have been installing small business phone systems for many years, and have such a system at home, I began to think of a way to solve the robo-dialer. I programmed the system to require caller to enter a code number to be connected. Calls are answered automatically on the first ring, (phones do not ring), and caller is prompted to enter the code number. I can set any code from 1 to 6 digits as a connect code. If he does not enter the code, the call is disconnected. This solved the problem
I see there are small, similar devices that you can buy onlne, for your home phone. This may be a good solution to weed out those sequential dialer calls, as they cannot listen to and carry out the connect instructions.
Well the OP has already stated in a previous post, that the electrical contractor company is paying for all damage, and there is no question that it is their's to pay, so my comments will speak to that.
The damagaged is very likely to go beyond what was described. When the 120v shorepower plug was connected to 240VAC, the transfer switch controller was probably burned out, any TV, VCR, DVD, battery charger, inverter, HVAC sysem (if the T-Stat was not OFF). microwave, on-board WIFI electronics like Cradlepoint or WiFi Ranger, etc. I would make sure that every electronic and electrical system is inspected and functionally tested, before signing off on the damage. If you miss something, you may not be able to go back when it is discovered, and file an additional claim. So check everything.
Bill, the router was working as a WAP the way I had it set up, but I did notice that the Verizon wireless router was using the same DHCP addresses, so I went into the DLink and changed it as you suggested, and it is working fine. It is located probably 25' from the Verizon router, and they are now on different channels. Login is quick; speed is fast, so I like this arrangement well enough to keep it for future guest use.
Thanks for your help, and thanks to others for their suggestions as well.
if you just want to use a different wifi password, the easiest is to change the password
short of that, simply plug 1 of the new routers into a switch port on the existing router, and plug that into the internet port on the temp wap, then simply setup the router like normal, pick a new ssid and password and should work finethen simply setup the router like normal, pick a new ssid and password and should work fine
try to pick a different channel then the one you currently use
Bill, I am not clear on the second part of your suggestion. Are you saying that there should be 2 cables connecting the main (Verizon) wireless router/modem and the (D-Link or Netgear) spare wireless router that I would use as a WAP?
I was under the impression that I could take a D-Link 614+ for example, and set it up as a WAP, then plug it into a port on the Verizon modem/router. No?
I did that, and it works, but I think there could be some sort of conflict. I took a D-link614+, and plugged it's WAN in, to a LAN jackon the Verizon. I can log in to the D-Link, and have internet access, but when it refreshes, or whatever routes do, I'm thinking that it may issue an IP address that is also being issued by the Verizon router.
If you don't care about providing full access to everything on your network you can just bring your WiFi Ranger in and setup the Guest pass code.
You can also buy a second router (or use the Ranger) and connect the WAN port of the Ranger to the LAN port on your router setting up a separate IP address in that unit. The users connected to that router would have full use of the internet but no access to your in-house network.
Techo geeks may need to jump in here for some details, but I think I have that right!
This is what I want to do. I did the other suggestions in the past, but it was a PITA to get the wireless network printers set up, and I really don't want to go back to a network key that was used before.
I can bring in the Ranger and try to set that up, but I have a few wireless routers here that are notbeing used. Would like to put one of them in service as a WAP, and no problem placing it in the garage, between the existing router and the house.
I think I vaguely remember that a router like a Netgear or Linksys, can be set up as WAP somehow in a setup menu. I'll check into it.
We have some guests that will be visiting for a week or so (at our house). I have a Verizon wireless router here for WIFI, but I want to add something more to provide our guests with WIFI, using a different WEP or WPA key from the one we use.
I have a couple wireless routers (Linksys, etc) lying around not being used. I also have a WiFi Ranger in the motorhome, out in the barn out back, but I think it is too far from the house to use as a WIFI repeater, unless I bring it in my garage (where the Verizon router is located).
Anyone have any suggestions? (I am not a wizzard at this stuff, but think I can it done with some guidance).
People are not going to stop, disconnect, then re-connect for the difference, and they know that. Maryland does the same thing, as does Florida. I questioned Florida Turnpike authorities about that, probably 10 years ago. "That's the way it is". Why? Because they can.
Again, thanks for the ideas. Busskipper, to answer some of your questions, we are not on the road yet. This will be a June trip, so this is the planning stage. It would be just the DW and me. Reservations already at Grand Canyon RV Park, and Co Springs (Freightliner Rally). Other than that, we're open to suggestions. Sent you a pm with more details, so this doesn't get too wordy.
If we had time to take the 4WD Jeep off the main roads to visit out of the way places, I am all about doing that; especially in Colorado, but really anywhere. I lived in Colorado for a year (Denver/Colorado Springs) a looong time ago, when I was in the Air Force. Beautiful country.
Just bought a Dell Inspiron 15 with Win7 and no bloatware. Don't remember the exact price but it was under 500 bux
Wife needs one for the same reasons as original post. I just ordered a Dell, Win7 Pro, built in camera & mike, card reader, 4 gb memory with room for 4 more, and a 6-cell battery. Costco sale; $299 + shipping. They also include a full Kaspersky anti-virus with 1 year updates at no add'l charge.
Thanks for replies. Just for clarification, the cities mentioned in my opening post were just to outline the route. We have no reason to stop in any of them, unless there is something we should really stop to see. Our first destination is the Grand Canyon; checking in to the campground on the 6th. Only other planned stop is Co. Springs on the 11th. After that, ???
2gypsies, that's a great itenerary, and with your closing comment in the above post, I tried sending you a message re our upcoming trip, but your pm feature has not been activated. Would like your input if you care to comment. I started a thread on Roads & Routes.
First trip ever, to G.C. and Colorado Springs. S&T mapped out a route along I-70 I-40; Columbus - St Louis - Springfield - Oklahoma City - Amarillo - Albequerque - Williams - GC.
Is this the best route, and are there any concerns I should be aware of? Once we leave GC, we will be going to Colorado Springs.
We'd like to see more of the natural beauty of the area, but won't have time to go further west of the GC and still make C.S. by the date we need to, so any suggestions of where to go after leaving Colorado would be great.
Oh, we will be driving the 36' diesel with a Jeep Cherokee in tow.