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 > Your search for posts made by 'Canadian Rainbirds' found 289 matches.

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RE: Doing Solar Again

Its very simple. You want the shortest route to the controller, so you come down thru the roof as near to the controller as possible. Mount the combiner box on top of the hole, and be done w/ it. If you are the type that can't drill a hole thru the roof, then I feel for you,....or do I ?? Tilt bars are made from aluminum flat bar, and mounting brackets are made from aluminum angle,.....at 1/3 the price. I found hat that having the controller close to the batteries is more important than close to the panels unless the controller has remote battery voltage sense. Our fridge is in a slide too. The tech brought the cables down alongside the tank vent. A friend who has an identical rig brought his down under the rear cap.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/21/15 05:33am Tech Issues
RE: DC Electrical Problem. HELP !!

04 Fleetwood Revolution with 4 - 6 volt house batteries. Batteries are Trojans less the a year old. I'm currently plugged into shore power, 50 amp service. Yesterday my lights were dim, so investigated, the positive lead from the battery to a fuse link was so hot you I couldn't touch it. One of the terminal ends was loose. Went into Klamath Falls about 25 miles away and was able to get a new cable with new ends made. Installed the new cable and everything appeared to be ok. Checked the cable again last night and was cool to the touch. When I went to bed last night I noticed the Norcold Frig window going thru various indications, didn't pay much attention to it. Got up this morning and lights were very dim. Looked at Norcold and it's flashing Lo dc. Checked battery cable and it's cool.......batteries are at around 10.5 volts. The cable side from the batteries of the fuse link is 10.5 volts. and the other side is of the fuse is 13.75 volts. All AC in the couch is working fine. My Xantrex indicator shows the following. The 3 little battery indicators shows full AC in light is on DC volts is 13.5 Incoming AC Breaker Amps 30 (I'm hooked up to 50 amps) Should I start the generator and see if the batteries charge up. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Brian The red part of your text above shows the problem. The fuse is OPEN. I would hazard a guess that your batteries aren't charging. Those batteries are seriously discharged. Get it fixed before you need to spring for 4 new Trojans. You might want to see my post Yes It's My Own D**n Fault! As of today they seem to have recovered.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/15/15 11:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone have a wife who overpacks motorhome?

We have been traveling with 2 dogs. For some reason we needed 6 dog beds. And NO they were not minitures. Nor were they allowed on the furniture. Then there was the 5 months worth of dog food for the winters in Mexico for dog who had a grain allergy, and the toys, etc etc. But I would have it no other way. I did once suggest to DW that a small Midi lathe would fit in one of the compartments but didn't get too far with that one. Can't complain though, the Ham Radios and APRS met no resistance. One thing I didn't have and should have had was a spare serpentine belt. :S
Canadian Rainbirds 06/15/15 11:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Yes it's my own D***N fault

Things are looking up. :) All four batteries are now showing an SG of 1.285 across the board. One frustrating puzzle explained: One of my DMMs (the most expensive one) seems to be reading about .2 to .3 volts low as compared to my cheapo DMM from Canadian Tire, which agrees pretty much with the Xantrex voltage reading. The batteries are back in there trays and and the door locked, disconnected from everything as we are leaving Wednesday for month in Europe. :C Baby sitting the batteries would be one thing too many for the house sitter who has to look after water system--softener and distiller, the dog (including meds), water the hanging baskets and the garden--He'll have fresh tomatoes in week or two! Oh, and looking after the hot tub, though he doesn't seem to mind that. :B On my return I'll reconnect the batteries. I noticed when disassembling the cabling that it appeared that the tech had not connected them in a balanced manner: He had the load and solar buss on one set and the Xantrex on the other. :S I noticed when I took them out one pair was slightly lower than the other. It's going to be very tight but I think I can switch the two + leads for a balanced system. Oh. And I need a new Xantrex Echo Charger. It appears that I left the bin door, to which the echo Charger is attached, open when I washed the roof! :E :S
Canadian Rainbirds 06/15/15 05:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Batteries

I have noted that the 6 volt GC2 batteries at Costco here do not list the AH on the label.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/14/15 07:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Yes it's my own D***N fault

If you have solar, why is it disconnected? I'm trying to resurrect these batteries which were inadvertently allowed a reallllly deep discharge. To do this I need to control the charging current and voltage carefully. The solar is problematic with two main concerns: 1) A long run of undersized wire between the controller and batteries. In full sun this can result in a full one volt drop at 20+ Amps. This causes the controller to taper the charge way too early--It thinks the battery is at 14.8 when it is only 13.8. If I increase the output voltage to make up for the drop at a high charging current, then as the battery chargers and current decreases so does the voltage drop until at a very low current the battery voltage would increase to nearly 15.8 Not a good thing. 2) At the moment the rig in parked under very tall trees so they are severely shaded. Best I can get out of them is 4 amps or so a few hours a day. Once I have the batteries back in shape I'll start worrying about the solar. I think the easiest fix will be to change to a controller with remote battery voltage sense. The other option will be to run at least #4 wires. But that is another project. The first is to save these batteries.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/13/15 11:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Yes it's my own D***N fault

Saturday morning all 4 batteries showed 6.3V Saturday after noon, tested SG: a little uneven. Bank B: B1 1.285 1.275 1.275, B2 1,285 1.275 1.275 After charging each of those batteries with 6 volt manual charger: Bank B: B1 1.285 1.2855 1.2855, B2 1,285 1.285 1.285 The charger, supposedly at 15A started reached more than 12A and slowly tapered over about 2-3 hours, highest voltage noted was 7.77V. After that time the current, measured by a clamp on meter was cycling between 10.9 and 7.5 (by a few hundred mA at a time) over maybe 10 or 15 seconds. I think it must be a function of the charger. Supposedly a manual charger--I think I am going to get in there and see if I can remove everything except the transformer and rectifier. I might add a digital ammeter and voltmeter. This won't happen for a month or two. Tomorrow, I'll do the same to the other two batteries.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/13/15 09:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Batteries

TT new to me. Two batteries, dated '08, one is 75 amps, one is 675 amps. Its been awhile to have dealt with this. Should the amps be matched or is it like I have one battery? Both are deep cycle, 24dc-6, 24dp-4. Thanks. Or did I answer my own question? Both are 75 amps.. On one you are reading Amp hours (75) and on the other cranking or cold cranking amps. That is about right for a Group 24 Second: Batteries in parallel need not be the same Batteries in SERIES do need be the same You have about 60-70 usable amp hours there Easist upgrade... IF you wish and have the HEIGHT (They are taller) woudl be a pair of GC-2 (5 volt) :h in series.. These batteries have around 220 amp hours and you can use 110 of them..That's over 50% more capacity with the same footprint. I hope that's a typo! GCs are 6 volts! Poor guy has enough stuff to figure out as it is!
Canadian Rainbirds 06/13/15 08:07am Tech Issues
RE: Even Less Expensive Lifeline Link

My MK's are date-stamped 2007, and are still in great shape. I try to be very, very kind to batteries :). The 2 volt cells running my ham radio stuff were tel co discards years ago. Date stamped October 1984, the SG is still 1.240. Mind you as far as I can tell they had NEVER been deep discharged until a few years ago when after a power failure the "smart" battery charger was not restarted by our house sitter and were left struggling with a 1 Amp power supply.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/13/15 12:37am Tech Issues
RE: Batteries

Yes and no I think most would agree with me: Yes, time for new batteries. BUT 1) What is the converter/charger? (Make, Model, if available) If it's an older unit may be (probably) due for an upgrade. 2) If you do any off grid camping, I highly recommend a pair of Golf Cart batteries. 3) If you do any off grid camping, highly recommend at LEAST 120 watts of solar panels, up to 350 or so watts of panel. (Rule of thumb for solar panel-battery ratio: 50 to 160 watts of solar per 100 Amp hours of battery.) 4) Read any and all posts on this forum about batteries, charging and solar. LOTS of good stuff here. For batteries and charging, pay attention to Mexicowanderer among othres. For solar, read BLF 13, Pianotuna and many others. 5) DON'T be shy about asking for help. We ALL needed advice somewhere along the line.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/13/15 12:28am Tech Issues
RE: Yes it's my own D***N fault

5 hours after charging, B1 and B2 showed 6.3 Volts each. Battery bank A1.-A2 showed "Full". Time for bed, back at the batteries late Saturday morning.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/13/15 12:14am Tech Issues
RE: Batteries

Those above are right. From the numbers you gave I'd suspect they are both group 24s. If they are both still alive after 7 years someone has been lavishing them with TLC. Certainly beyond the end of normal lifespan. Golf Cart Deep cycle batteries have the same footprint as group 24 batteries but are a couple of inches taller and MUCH heavier--about 66 pounds each. GCs are much more robust and will supply about 50% more Amp-hours, 220 to 240 depending on the manufacturer. (Or perhaps depending on their claims) They will also stand up to deep discharging much better.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/12/15 08:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Oh Gee OUTBACK Is A Genius

I ordered two medium rare & one over-charged. :B :B :B 'cause this site doesn't have a ROFL
Canadian Rainbirds 06/12/15 08:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Yes it's my own D***N fault

Thanks for the encouragement but: This was strange: Checked the battery voltage reading on the Xantrex (not in charge mode as this morning, 12.6 V Removed all 4 batteries to the ground--not as easy as it sounds, it's very tight! Also took photos first and during. Once on the ground checked each battery: 6.2V ! :h Reconnected back to series-parallel in the exact same format, reading 12.4V! What happened to the 12.6 of half an hour ago? The DVM has brand new batteries. I'll take up another voltmeter and compare. Here is the SG: (closest to negative post first): A1 1.285 1.275+ 1.275+ A2 1.275+ 1.275+ 1.275 B1 1.275 1.270 1.275 B2 1,275 1.275 1.275 I'm a bit surprised to see only 12.4 volts with those S.G.s In any case, I connected two in series (B1 and B2) and put my good old Canadian Tire charger "Smart" charger on at 40 A I must remember to check the main cables to make sure that the tech hadn't put the Xantrex charge line on one bank and the load buss on the other. That might explain the small difference in SG between set A and B Guess I won't get these all done today! Good thing the weather is good.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/12/15 03:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Odd things connected to the House Batteries

Interesting. Ours had a rocker switch on the dash for the radio/surround sound to switch between chassis and house batteries. The steps use the chassis batteries, the gen start is from the house batteries. All the alarms seem to be from the chassis batteries.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/12/15 12:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: water in batteries boiling

You need a voltmeter. Standard equipment for any electrical issues. Let the battery sit for a half-hour with no loads, then check its voltage. YES! And a hydrometer to check the Specific Gravity in each cell. Fully charged it (S.G.) should be about 1.275. If one is a lot lower is could be the dead cell OR it might recover somewhat from an equalizing charge. First check the voltage after disconnectinG at least the negative lead. Wait AT LEAST half an hour, up to a day or two and check the voltage with a digital multimeter. While you are out buying the multimeter, buy a hydrometer. Neither are expensive and will be paid for by NOT ruining another battery. I suspect that there is a converter that is charging the batteries. One small panel won't do much of anything except allow the salesman the point out that it has solar charging. Please take the time and effort to learn a little about battery care, (Most of us are still learning, even after we thought we knew everything! Se my recent posts. :S ) Please also keep us posted and don't hesitate to ask questions as they come up.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/12/15 12:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: water in batteries boiling

You need a voltmeter. Standard equipment for any electrical issues. Let the battery sit for a half-hour with no loads, then check its voltage. And a hydrometer to check the Specific Gravity in each cell. Fully charged it (S.G.) should be about 1.275. If one is a lot lower is could be the dead cell OR it might recover somewhat from an equalizing charge. First check the voltage after disconnection at least the negative lead. Wait AT LEAST half an hour, up to a day or two and check the voltage with a digital multimeter. While you are out buying the multimeter, buy a hydrometer. Neither are expensive and will be paid for by ruining another battery. I suspect that there is a converter that is charging the batteries. One small panel won't do much of anything except allow the salesman the point out that it has solar charging. Please take the time and effort to learn a little about battery care, (Most of us are still learning, even after we thought we knew everything!) Please also keep us posted and don't hesitate to ask questions as they come up.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/12/15 12:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Yes it's my own D***N fault

Had the rig out for a few days last week, batteries performed well though they were hardly strained on shore power. Wednesday, set the Xantrex to 15.0 volts @ 5% C for bulk and absorption since I couldn't get the Equalise function to work. Currant began to taper hours later. Turned off charger function (Solar had already been disconnected) Yesterday, voltage was at 12.6 Volts. Of the four cells I could reach, SG was Battery 1: 1.285 (or so) 1.275 1.275 Battery 2 1.275 Bought charger with manual and automatic settings. Opening the box I found that it will only do a manual charge on the 6 Volt setting. Good enough for the GCs. Good for 15 Amps so I'll do two in Parallel. Today: Batteries still showing 12.6V On the agenda for later today, remove all the batteries from the rig, test and record SG and voltage for each battery Put the manual charger on a pair at 15A, pull up a deck chair and read while watching the ammeter. I hope this charger will produce the 8 volts I'm looking for. More later.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/12/15 12:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Winnebago Journey

We have it's first cousin, the Itasca Horizon. A 32' 2002 with Cummins 5.9 and have been extremely happy. major repairs: fuel pump, serpentine belt, (CARRY A SPARE!), broken fuel line to the injectors. We've put about 100,000 miles on it since bought used about 7 years ago.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/12/15 12:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Update - generator doesn't continue to run after starting

To clean electrical connections by an electrical contact cleaner at electrical or automotive supply stores. You can also clean corroded contacts with a pencil eraser.
Canadian Rainbirds 06/11/15 11:51pm Class A Motorhomes
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