I don't worry about it, other than running it dead every few months to let it calibrate the battery health. Other than that, I recharge when I think about it. This on a 1st gen iPad, which is still going strong.
You don't really need that catch-with the rafter properly extended, it isn't going anywhere, but any hardware store will have a spring.
For me, the only time that catch actually keeps the rafter up is when I'm trying to stow it, adding a step.
Unless you have disconnected the original wiring, you should be able to simply bolt the hots together and grounds together ( hot to hot and ground to ground, obviously) power will feed from the load center through the original lines to the slide wires. Both should already be protected by fuses or circuit breakers.
Otherwise , follow the wires and find where to tap in,.
Look at the wiring diagram on the back- it will show it. There was a thread about that a while ago- some models you can disconnect it at the back, some you have to go to the interior light switch (IIRC).
On Dometic refrigerators, the product number is the most important- it will show every variation.
Find a single ISP using a sat link for a bunch of users- you will not, because it does not exist.
So you have surveyed EVERY little podunk ISP in the whole country and none of them find that connecting their few customers to somebody else's backbone by sat or a long radio haul is the best solution for them ?? Somehow I don't think you really posses that knowledge.
Boy, you just keep digging it deeper, don't you. Just in case you have forgotten:
ALL electronic communication is likely to use a satellite somewhere in it's transmission path; even some fairly short trips that you would never believe.
That is simply, 100% wrong. Unless you are an end user with a sat uplink, it simply is not done, for all of the reasons I, and other have patiently pointed out. Now, if you want to change your story to include terrestrial radio- I said nothing about that.
FWIW, while I'm not an expert, I have been online since well before the Internet, on the Internet before it was publicly accessible (via a University shell account, back when a lot was gopher:// ), had my website (hand coded) since 1999, have a good friend who had a T1 line and 150 phone lines in to his garage. I also am subscribed to, and sometimes even read, a number of IT professional magazines. So I am not totally without a clue- the clue train stops at my door every day (in deference to another early adopter).
You're not serious are you?
I am absolutely serious.
When the symptoms are:
A little rain has no effect, not matter how long it goes on but when the clouds get real tall and dense or the rain falls REAL heavily, then there is an outage.....that magically starts working again when the clouds or rain thins out and NOT when the rain actually stops......indicates a loss of radio signal and NOT a signal degradation because the receiving equipment is a little damp.
Well, that is exactly what happened to me, and after much work, it wound up being bad hardware at my closest dslam, where the coax goes to fiber, and is about 3 miles from me. I assure you there are no satellite links in that circuit.
Now it *may* be that some ISPs use a microwave link, but that is usually the "last mile" to the end user, and not a main line.
Then.....the end links are not multi-routed. There is only one path from me to my ISP. When you set up a particular system, you get to define how far that end link goes and at what point it joins the big network.
And none of them are via satellite. Bottom line is it is simply too expensive, and will never be anything more than a link for an end user- not at all part of the Internet. Find a single ISP using a sat link for a bunch of users- you will not, because it does not exist.
Easy- bad terrestrial equipment. A bit of moisture in a connection is all it takes.
there are still miles of "dark" fiber optic cable wating to be used,
And what kind of bad equipment is that which dries out immediately when the rain stops ??
You're not serious are you? Do you understand QAM modulation? Do you have a clue as to capacitance, reactance, the effect of moisture on those properties, and how they affect data transmission?
Then are you saying that every little town in West Texas, just for instance, has a boat load of "dark fiber" upon which they can draw ??
Sorry, but you obviously both have no clue as to what you are talking about, and simply want to argue (spell checker just gave me choice of obviously and obliviously- smart spell checker).
Satellites simply are not part of the Internet, period. You have to understand how the Internet works- I type this, hit send, these bytes are broken in to packets, each packet has an address, and each packet makes its way to the address- but not all together, and not via the same route. This is *not* like phone service, where you are physically connected via copper to the person you are speaking to (though that's not so much, these days). You send a few packets via satellite, and they are late enough they are sent again. Latency is a real issue, and will nearly always be routed around. IOW, a satellite connection would never be used, with the exception of the end user.
Here's a link to a pdf on my Google drive- https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2Rqi0WcAwQUOWxSWnZlR2htSDg/view?usp=sharing (It's the Accuslide slideout repair manual)- I left the link visible so you could see one.
I highly recommend buying and using the slick stick from Flight Systems to clean the slip rings if you have not- this is a common issue on these gensets. The resistance between the brushes and slip rings gets high, reducing the voltage fed to the rotor, reducing the output voltage. This makes the voltage regulator boost the voltage to the rotor. Normal voltage to the rotor should be around 18 volts. With tarnished slip rings, that voltage can get up to ~80 volts, whch the VR doesn't like to supply, and at which point the output voltage drops. Once it drops below ~90 volts, the genset will not run.
The slick stick is the easiest way to clean them.
FWIW, if you do wind up replacing, I very highly recommend connectors from Progressive Industries- they have by far the best and easiest connections for the wire- actual captive lugs, rather than the simple screws others use. It's a pain to get a #6 or #10 stranded wire under a screw.
So, let's get back to the original quesion:
IF, as some of you claim, Internet service NEVER routes via satellite, how do you explain it going out of service every time there is a heavy rain ?? Some of that might be explained by a crappy provider who doesn't have battery backup during power failures but not all.
Easy- bad terrestrial equipment. A bit of moisture in a connection is all it takes.
And secondly, how many ISPs are there who give a latency guarantee ?? I suspect none.
AFAIK, online gaming is the only thing that really cares about that and I'd bet that users who still do that in real time are a TINY number......if any at all.
You would be wrong about that- there are huge real time online games.
However- the main reason traffic does not travel via satellite is cost- there are still miles of "dark" fiber optic cable wating to be used, it makes zero sense to pay for the bandwidth via satllite.
Now- there are some LEO (Low Earth Orbit) satellite schemes that do phone and data, and have acceptable latency, but they are a different matter entirely.
I had problems, finally found out about the forums at http://www.dslreports.com/- they have specific forums for ISPs. Got on, talked to the Brighthouse guy. and they sent the lead tech out, changed everything at our place, finally found the bad hardware a few miles away.
Now I get rock solid 100Mbps down, 10 up (and there are 2 tiers faster, if I want).
And- no part of the Internet is via satellite, unless you have a sat internet provider. It's all fiber optics- satellites have far too much latency.
You can stretch the sheathing- lay it out in the sun, start at the coach end, secure it and "massage" the sheathing (basically pulling it- use gloves). Then seal with Goop.
It's easier to do than describe.
It's not really for rain as such- it's for the water running down the side of the rig. I would go ahead and install the lip even on the old one- it was pretty common- particularly on Airstream and round bodied coaches.
They sometimes put that lip on the older style as well- I would probably use the new one. To me it looks better- plus less wind resistance while driving :D
Good point about making sure the overlap is enough on the exhaust tube.