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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chris Bryant' found 733 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Water Pump filter/strainer

It doesn't matter at all.
Chris Bryant 05/23/15 07:49am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: bidirectional isolator relay delay and voltages

I really don't see a problem with these results... i hope there are clues in this morning's troubleshoot results - i think they will tell someone here right off what is up... * i disconnected house batt cables * measure NO voltage between positive and megative cables As it should be. * try to toggle house disconnect to USE, and nothing Again- as it should be- there's nothing to power it. * crank engine and disconnected house batt cables read 14+ volts * house batt is still disconnected * engine still running * toggle house batt disconnect to USE, and red lite comes on --- and house lights work --- genset primer works (audible click) --- house LED battery meter reads 4/4 so in this condition, there is no need for a house battery Now power is coming through the BIRD- the chassis battery is being charged, so the BIRD closes the combiner relay, powering the house side. * turn house disconnect to STORE and red lite goes out " turn off engine * walk dogs 30 min * engine off and house batt still uncabled * toggle house disconnect to USE and red lite comes on * turn 3 hall lights on and they work about 5 sec then go off (along w/ red lite, i think} This is because the BIRD is keeping the combiner relay closed, until the load burns the surface charge off, dropping the voltage on the chassis battery below the set point, opening the combiner relay. I really think your problem is simply a flaky voltage meter on the disconnect panel. Could be as simple as a bad switch. Just for clarification- the BIRD is a circuit board which controls the silver relay in your picture* The disconnect relay is the black one. Follow the small wires from the silver relay to find the BIRD board. * The BIRD can actually use a starter solenoid- a large 200 amp model is popular. It does this by energizing the combiner solenoid with full voltage, then dropping it to a low voltage- enough to keep it closed, but low enough to not overheat the coil.
Chris Bryant 05/22/15 02:39pm Tech Issues
RE: 13.5 Coleman in Bedroom. Not Impressed

A 10.7 EER 5K window unit mounted on the deck consumes SEVENTEEN percent of the energy compared to a 13.5K BTU roof air, I don't buy it, unless you have a 5k btu/hr air conditioner that uses 280 watts (17% of the 1650 watts the most inefficient Coleman uses).
Chris Bryant 05/22/15 12:49pm Tech Issues
RE: How do you Buy your Dicor

Dicor lap seal is not sold by the gallon- only tubes. OEMs can buy it in 5 and 55 gallon drums, however. The Dicor products that are sold by the gallon are coatings, not lap seal.
Chris Bryant 05/22/15 11:35am General RVing Issues
RE: This is bad! Email to webmaster bounces

Every website is *supposed* to maintain and accept mail to webmaster@ and abuse@ addresses- among others. See RFC 2142 for more information.
Chris Bryant 05/22/15 08:54am Forum Technical Support
RE: 13.5 Coleman in Bedroom. Not Impressed

Sorry, not "R" rated, what one wrong letter can do. Simple fix, hence poor design. Took the shroud down inside and noticed Coleman utilizes a flexible shoot or duct to blow the cooled air. If the "boot is not absolutely sealed to the plastic air channel, it will leak/blow the cooled air on the thermostat tube and give the unit a false temp. Again, cheap design. No RV repair is going to take the time to fix/sea; this adequately. Also, no I dont always run it. Just a boost during the hot hot days and while we park and run the gen. Thanks guys, should have taken pictures. David Glad you found the problem. That design is somewhat problematic, but better than the Carrier was, and it just takes a small bit of care when installing to make it right- it should *never* have been released leaking like that. Not sure how portables wormed in to this thread though....
Chris Bryant 05/22/15 07:07am Tech Issues
RE: bidirectional isolator relay delay and voltages

Keep in mind the BIRD and the disconnect are 2 separate systems, not interconnected (other than battery wise) The voltages indicated on the disconnect could be flaky simply due to a dirty switch on the panel. The BIRD simply measures the battery voltage of either battery, and connects them when the voltage indicates charging on either, with a delay built in to let the alternator get a bit ahead of the curve.
Chris Bryant 05/22/15 05:28am Tech Issues
RE: 13.5 Coleman in Bedroom. Not Impressed

Chris where is the thermostat tube and how do I identify. The unit is 35ft and I thought a secong isolated unit in the bedroom would be great to help keep up. The primary is the main ducted unit with a wall thermostat and it freezes the entire living area. I would think one 13.5 would freeze a small bedroom, however, nope it does not. the thermostat and controls are integrated in the 13.5. It should easily keep that area cold. The thermostat tube comes right out of the thermostat, and should be in the return air flow- I have seen them stuck up in the coils, like a freeze sensor. That would certainly cause a problem.
Chris Bryant 05/21/15 06:53pm Tech Issues
RE: 13.5 Coleman in Bedroom. Not Impressed

Is it cycling on and off, or just not keeping up? Cycling- make sure the thermostat capillary tube is in the correct position, mechanical thermostat has a bottom temp of ~65-70. Not keeping up- measure inlet and outlet temps- should be around 17-20 degrees difference. Make sure all of the collars are in place, and air isn't leaking between return and supply air.
Chris Bryant 05/21/15 11:57am Tech Issues
RE: Flat window vs curved wall (pictures)

I would remove the foam gasket- use either a foam gasket or butyl tape (dom dom)- not both. The butyl will make the seal- any silicone is purely cosmetic. You will need to use several layers of butyl, enough that it squeezes out the entire perimeter- be aware that the top and bottom will protrude more than they are in the pictures, because the center will be held out by the butyl. The interior framing you add needs to be contoured to the wall to give a stable base- the contour will be subtle, but otherwise you will be trying to flatten the sidewall to follow the window.
Chris Bryant 05/21/15 10:00am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Smart Light SL-1000 not so smart

Chris Bryant 05/21/15 09:25am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: ZEP with or without decals? Before or After?

I would put the decals on first- otherwise they will be adhered to the layer of Zep acrylic.
Chris Bryant 05/21/15 07:47am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Power Robbing Engine Valve Springs

I would bet that electromagnetic valve actuation will end up being the winner. That's what I would bet- reason being the valve train can be put under direct control of the engine cpu.
Chris Bryant 05/20/15 09:36am Tech Issues
RE: Propane leak test

Thanks. If I understand the manometer will show the drop in pressure but not the volume rate of leakage. In a way it does show the rate- no drop from an 8" water column movement in 3 minutes means the leak is small enough to be inconsequential (some states call for up to 15 minutes- the time I use for testing). The trouble with watching the changeover indicator is that you have a volume of high pressure LP in the pigtails, which can keep the pressure up even with a leak.
Chris Bryant 05/20/15 08:51am Tech Issues
RE: Propane leak test

You are always going to have a small leak- the solenoid valves on appliances do not seal perfectly- ANSI standards call for less than 240 cc/hr leakage as being acceptable. The reason for using a manometer is so you can quantify the leak to make certain is is within allowable limits- something that you cannot do using the changeover indicator.
Chris Bryant 05/20/15 07:56am Tech Issues
RE: Cracked Suburban water tank

That's not the tank- it's the draw pan. Seal it with whatever to keep water out.
Chris Bryant 05/20/15 06:49am Tech Issues
RE: Turn signal indicators

Question for those that added their own, How did you wire them? Do they light up when the brake is pressed or only when the turn signal is on? The ones I have done are hooked to the brake lights- you can use some logic circuits for turn only, but it really isn't worth it. If your rig already has mid mounted clearance lights, you can move the ground for them to the running light circuit, which will let them blink both if the clearance light are on or not (clearance lights on, the ground for the clearance lights is through the turn signals, clearance off, the ground for the turn signals is through the clearance light circuit. This will not work with LED bulbs, without external diodes).
Chris Bryant 05/19/15 12:27pm General RVing Issues
RE: Suburban SW10DE water heater

You should be able to replace the gas valve, manifold, and burner tube w/orifice for a bit over $110- you would need : p/n 161109 gas valve, 3/8" in. 1/4" loxit out $76 p/n 171420 manifold $10 p/n 171463 loxit nut (2 required) @ $3.79 ea p/n 10843 burner tube w/orifice @ $26 These are full flaming retail prices. As long as you don't turn on the LP switch, there should be no problem- you can pull a wire from one of the valve solenoids to make sure no LP flows.
Chris Bryant 05/19/15 12:18pm Tech Issues
RE: 2nd AC does cycle on long enough

Sounds like too much air conditioner for too small an area- it's cooling without dehumidifying. I would try leaving the door open, or running it on low fan (more danger of freeze ups though).
Chris Bryant 05/19/15 10:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Small AC motors and Inverters

Because this thread isn't quite long enough, I'll point out that ampacity also hinges on the temperature rating of the wire- a #12 wire with 90 degree insulation is rated for 30 amps, standard building wire (75 degree) #12 is 20 amps. At the extreme, a nicrome heating element is rated way above these figures.
Chris Bryant 05/19/15 09:50am Tech Issues
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