Desert Storms
Desert Storms
The rivers of air that flow above us can bring us beauty, danger, and annoyance. We spend a lot of time in the desert country of southern Utah. On a recent trip in October to the town of Green River we found ourselves lashed with rain squalls.
We drove east from the town on old US 6 which is now a disintegrating service road . We parked to see the unfolding weather drama, which was a series of storms sliding from south to north. The clouds were boiling across the flats to the Book Cliffs on the north.
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Clouds drop the la Sal Mountains from view.
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Old highway6 looking east. The Book Cliffs on the left.
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Rabbit Brush
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The late afternoon sun starts illuminated the distant southwest.
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A strip of gold is evidence of lowering sun.
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Looking west toward Green River, which is to the left of the sun rescued mesa.
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Rain in the Book Cliffs from and earlier trip. Near Crescent Junction, 2011.
Wind can be a severe annoyance.
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Sand storm in Monument Valley March 2011. We were on the way home from Death Valley, and we had fought high winds for 500 miles. I shot this picture with a "point and shoot" from the truck window. I did not dare step outside.
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Snow squall in Monument Valley
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Flash Flood in Elephant Canyon. we were on the way to return over Elephant Hill when the was a glistening up the canyon.
there was no rain , but there had been clouds to the south. I thought we better wait.
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Within a very short time the water was raging down. If we had been on the road in the narrow part of the canyon the jeep would have been toast, and us scrambling for high ground.
After Green river area, we were north west of Moab on Hwy 313 and the Mineral point road when showers were moving though.
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From Mineral Point road.
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Looking east from 313 toward Moab and the Monti la Sal mountains.
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Weather can be so stunning, yet so dangerous.
Ron
RE: TR - Fall in the Eastern Sierra
I have not explored that area, and your TR makes me want to go there. My wife is subject to altitude sickness since we have grown ancient. We could take our toad, and I could go high for photos while she stays in a lower camp.
RE: honda 2000
I also have a Honda 2000i and a 9200 Coleman. I have been able to run it at 9000 ft. It is best to take the batteries off line if it won't handle it at altitude.
RE: Newfoundland by TC
We have a trip planned for 13 and have some Qs
Fuel available cost diesel
food every day stuff expensive?
ferry info on that
Reservations etc how far in advance?
how many miles in Newfoundland?
Best weather?
Fishing?
Wow getting ready tommorow
Thanks for the help
Ray
Ray and others interested in Newfoundland,
First, Newfoundland -Labrador is Atlantic Canada and not the Maritimes.
The island is big. We did not see everything, yet we drove 3689 miles. We were there from August 23 to September 20th. After the first of September camp ground start to close. by the last week one has to boondock in some areas.
For more current information go the forum's Canada Alaska section and do a search.
Forum member, Little Kopit, has lots of info because she lived there for 24 years.
Places to look for information:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newfoundland_and_Labrador
http://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/
The tourist site.
For our trip we received a very good map from them
If you are interested in the history I recommend Kevin Major's "As Near To Heaven By Sea".
There are interesting foods: moose pie. seal flipper, Caribou steaks, and cod tongues (which we found delicious).
Ron
RE: Newfoundland by TC
Beautiful expedition!
I was in Newfoundland way back in the mid '80s. I didn't drive nearly the comprehensive route you had!
I'm archiving this one on my laptop for our future planned journey to Newfoundland.
Many thanks for this exceptional trip report!
Cheers,
Silversand-
Fyi we spent over a month and about 3200 miles. My post does not cover everything.
Newfoundland by TC
Newfoundland by TC
Looking back on trips we have made, the outstanding ones are fondled by our memory. It is with sweet nostalgia we remember the poignant times and details.
One of our most memorable destinations was Newfoundland in 2005. From Colorado we left our home and travelled the northern states until we crossed into Ontario Canada at Sault Ste. Marie Michigan. Our rig at that time was a 10 ft. Northstar on a 2002 F350 DRW 7.3 diesel.
We spent a month touring Eastern Canada, which was very rewarding.
We moved on to Nova Scotia on HWY 104 heading for New Glasgow and to North Sidney where the ferry departs for what is known as "The Rock".
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You meet the nicest people while waiting for the ferry. We arrived at the ferry terminal at 5:30 for a 2:30 AM departure (one way $165.00 for truck and 2 seniors).
With a lot of time to kill we chatted with others who were in the same situation. Most of them only have cars to sit in instead of and instant cabin like we had.. http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/Clattertruck/Newfoundland%202005%20redo/0002North-Sidney-wait-for-ferry600.jpg
We set up our lawn chairs and sat drinking wine and beer.
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This trucker had his family with him. they were going to visit friends while he delivered produce. Conflict with nighttime moose is dangerous to truckers.
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The ferry trip was enervating. Semis parked next us were running their reefers all night right next to us. We could not sleep but for an hour or so. Loading started at 1:00 AM for the six hour voyage. After loading we found reclining chairs to sit in. They were not bad but sleeping was difficult.
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The ferry entered Port-Aux-Basques at 8:30 AM through a very narrow opening. No doubt the Captain is always stressed. Immediately one sees that Newfoundland (pronounced New-fun-land) is different. The town of Port-Aux-Basques looks small, simple, and 1950s fishing village. The houses remind us of Wrangle Alaska
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The Atlantic Provinces have a crust of population around the sea coasts, but inland is wild and boggy. The boreal forest keeps civilization at bay. Rarely is there a community out of sight of salt water.
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Sleep deprivation hammered us as we left Port-aux-Basque, but we stopped at Stephenville for shopping. In the store parking lot, two different men walked up to the camper to tell us welcome to Newfoundland. Yes, these are very friendly people. What a nice touch of fleeting kindness.
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We drove on to Corner Brook and into a camp ground. We were in bed by 7: PM.
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The Kinsman Prince Edward CG was being repaired so we had to use the overflow field
Refreshed in the morning, we headed for Gros Morne National Park on HWY 430.
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Winter House Brook
At 431 we turned towards Trout River which is a small fishing village. We did not know what to expect. Our tour of the main street was engrossing.
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Here was a fishing community that has changed little in the last century. The fishing industry is down, but the people tenaciously cling to their way of life.
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Winter is on the way, a man was cutting wood for his winter stock.
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Houses are small so they are easier to heat. Some of the homes have entrances placed high or at the second floor. The snow piles up to 5 feet on the level.
This town has no “pretty people” for the summer, and no cutesy shops tended by wealthy hobbyists. There are simply residents of long maritime traditions.
These are sturdy folks who have leaned into the wind on small boats in a dangerous life for small rewards.
Leaving Trout River we passed through Gros Morne National Park.
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Lobster Cove Lighthouse
The road (430) follows the rocky coast at the edge of the Tablelands, which are a vast bog of stunted trees and peat that lead to the Long Range Mountains. The trees near the shore are sculpted by the wind so they look as if they flow away from it. These balsam fir and spruce trees are called “Tuckamore” by Newfoundlanders.
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Tuckamore leans from the wind, never able to stand against it.
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Our route up the northwest coast along the Gulf of St Lawrence to headlands facing the Atlantic.
North of the Park we camped at Port au Choix (Port of Choice). There is evidence here that four ancient native cultures were here for 5500 years. The campground is managed by the local Lions Club. The elderly man tending the camp was a delight.
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It was only 100 yds from the waters of the bay. Until late evening, we the only people there.
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The busy season was over. The weather was clear and mild.
From Port au Choix on the Northern Peninsula, we traveled to the far tip to
L’Anse aux Meadows (Cove of Meadows).
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The headlands here are arctic; stunted trees, brush, and grasses. The Atlantic brings a Siberian chill to the coast line.
It is the site where the Vikings made the actual first landing in North America. Columbus, of course never came close. He touched the Caribbean Islands and the coast of Venezuela. All controversy about the Vikings being first was settled in 1960 when Norse archeologists with help of a local guide found and excavated the site.
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Artifacts clearly identifiable to be Norse were found. They called it Vinland in their historic sagas. The wild berries the found reminded them of vineyards.
The National Historic Site has reconstructed the type of buildings that were used around 1000AD. They have done a first class job, and the interpreters were excellent.
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The actors.
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Interior construction.
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As one follows the roads here, you see piles of logs on the edge of the road. The piles have tags identifying the owner. This is winter fuel so necessary for survival. Stealing the wood is a very serious matter.
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From the Meadows we went 50Km south to St. Anthony (2700 pop.), which was the setting for the novel and movie Shipping News. We found good light in the morning to photograph the city surrounding the natural harbor.
The history of European settlement of St. Anthony reaches back to the early 16th century, when French and Basque fishermen used the well-sheltered harbour as a seasonal fishing station. By the time explorer Jacques Cartier came across the settlement in 1534, he reported it was named St. Anthony Haven.
After St. Anthony we returned down the West Coast pounding our way through frost heaves. We arrived at Deer Lake on the Trans Continental Highway expecting to find it easy to locate a good camp at this busy intersection. No such luck, there was only the municipal park. The sites were not bad, but they were on a road to where the local youth gather for mating exercises and then race their cars up and down the road. Activity abated about 2 AM.
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We were now in the Central Region of NL. HYW 330 to 331 to 340 took us to the historic town of Twillingate on North Twillingate Island. The headlands face the unpitying Atlantic waters. Settled around 1700, French fishermen named it Toulinguet after a Point near Brest, France. It is a large fishing port of 2600 citizens.
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Twillingate headland.
The earliest known people to inhabit the area were the Maritime Archaic who occupied the area about 3,500 years ago. in 1500 BC. The Maritime Archaic people were later supplanted by the Beothuk.
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The Long Point Lightstation at the end of the island is well preserved and still in operation. Built in 1876, Long Point lightstation is situated atop of a cliff called Devil's Cove Head in Notre Dame Bay (a.k.a. Iceberg Alley).
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We were fortunate to meet the lightstation keeper who was there checking on its operation. He gave us a private tour up to the top on 130 year old stairs showing the original wood burnished by history. He explained that there are no ice bergs that year because the current is farther east than usual.
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Our camper below.
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Long Point
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Looking for whales, and one was spotted.
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Our campground was called Windmill Bight.
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After Twillingate our route went through Boyd’s Cove and Musgrave Harbour on HWY 330. The little loop through Boyd’s Cove proved to be a world class piece of disintegrated pavement. It was 5 to 10 MPH until it turned into gravel which was much better. Returning to the main highway, TCH 1 we went through Tera Nova NP and then proceeded NE up the Bonavista Peninsula to the town of Bonavista and the Lightstation on the cape.
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This is the location where John Cabot probably put his foot ashore in 1497 under commission by the English. His actual name was Caboto and he was Italian. The English thought it better to imply that he was from Britain.
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Cape Bonavista
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We had met our daughter, Sarah in St John's and retraced some of our steps.
We showed Sarah Cape Bonavista and the town. The day was sunny at moments between squalls of sharp rain.
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The wind was trying to take us off the headlands at a steady 30 to 40 knots. While at the Lightstation, we thought of the fishermen who have seen their end on days like this. Little did we know that a fishing boat was capsized with eight hands in grave danger. News reports of the next day said that four were rescued by the Coast Guard and one body recovered. The Captain’s youngest brother was gone with two other men. I was reminded of the book title I had seen, “A sea of Mother’s Tears” referring to the frightful Atlantic.
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Bonavista headlands as a storm comes with angry clouds.
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Southwest from Cape Bonavista is the town of East Trinity. Across the bay is historic town of Trinity.
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East Trinity has a an excellent 5km trial that is easy for young people but a bit difficult for ancient bad-knee folks. Oddly, the next day, the hurting joints of the walk were not even felt. Motrin and beer in large quantities are excellent natural remedies.
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Sarah on helpful steps.
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Looking at Trinity from the Skerwink.
Trinity has an interesting collection of buildings some going back to the 18th century. Most of the structures date from the 19th and early 20th centuries.
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Holy Trinity Catholic Church established in 1833.
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Parish Hall 1898.
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St Paul's Anglican Church. first built 1730, third structure 1892.
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Campbell house 1840.
Englishman Richard Whitbourne fished in Trinity Harbour in 1579. Later in1620 he proclaimed Trinity Harbour “… the best and largest in the land”.
An interesting historical factoid is that in 1800 Dr. John Clinch experimented here smallpox vaccination, a first in medical history.
St John's
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St. John’s metro area is about 200,000 population. Over half the population of Newfoundland lives in the metro area of the Provincial Capital.
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St. John’s has a long history dating back to the sixteenth century. The old central city burned four times, and as a consequence the buildings are mostly late nineteenth century and early twentieth century.
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Sarah shopping.
Both houses and businesses are colorfully painted. There are plentiful places for dining and nightlife. Cruise ships dock there almost daily and flood the streets with potential money spenders.
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Big time shoppers.
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Glitterman. Every famous city has to have this type attention starved oddball.
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We stayed at Pippy Park Camp Ground, which is close to downtown and the Airport. It was quite satisfactory.
Cape Spear is near St. John's.
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Cape Spear Lightstation.
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Cape spear is the farthest east point in North America.
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When at the cape, we were some 4000 miles from Colorado and 2500 miles from Ireland.
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We traveled down the Avalon Peninsula.
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Ferryland is an interesting historic town where excavations were going on to find it's history.. It was founded by Lord Baltimore in the 1620s. His son, the second lord Baltimore founded Baltimore MD where the weather was better. A little to the south is Renews which is so old that the Mayflower made a stop there.
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Fishing boat at Ferryland.
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Newfoundlanders love lawn decorations.
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The country south of Ferryland on HWY 10 changes to a broad flat plane of treeless tundra that is the home of Caribou. Here lives the southern most Caribou herd in North America. Of course, we did not see any. There is some soil in this area that supports hay and livestock. Sheep and cows are seen braving the wind in this arctic landscape.
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Near the south end of the peninsula, we stayed at Chance Cove Provincial Park. Finding it was a bit of a problem . This small sign was the only indication.
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There were no established sites, just find a place that you like.
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This wonderful sign was near our site.
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It was a gloomy afternoon, but there we young men in wet suits offshore looking for a wave to ride.
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We traveled around St. Mary’s bay down to Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Preserve
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The bird Rocks were about a 3km walk where sheep frequented the trail. The exercise was good for legs in paralysis from travel.
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We saw the Northern Gannets by the thousands finishing the raising of their young.
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We camped just outside the Preserve at Gannet’s Nest Camp Ground. The wind blew all night at 30 to 40 knots. We were the only ones in the CG. The season for tourists was over. The owner was a fisherman who has furnished his life savings to the camp and restaurant venture. We wish him well, but the short season seems dream shattering. Even at the peak of the tourist season, I suspect the not many pass the intersection of HWY 100 and the Cape St. Mary’s road.
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After taking Sarah to the airport at St. John's, we crossed "The Rock" to get the ferry at Channel-Port-aux Basques. this was our last night before the ferry.
We stayed at the Grand Codroy RV Park at Doyles, NF, which is 36 Km from the ferry. Our final morning in Newfoundland greeted us with a fine sunrise and mild winds. We headed south to Port aux Basques and soon felt the buffeting of high winds and light rain. As we bid adieu to dear old Newfoundland. We felt very pleased with the venture into this fascinating country.
RE: Legs ripped of TC. Where to fix in South Carolina?
My guess is $15,000 to 25,000 depending on how badly the camper is damaged. A crane with a sling is probably need to get it onto a flatbed (and off). then who knows how far it has to be trucked. The insurance company may just total it. Maybe others in the repair business would have a better estimate.
RE: Magnetek 6300 & my Onan don't play nicely in the sandbox
Years ago I had a camper with a Magnejunk 6300 that decided to charge at 17 volts. I discovered this when the batteries boiled. I called Best Converter and bought a Progressive Dynamics. Problem solved.
Currently I am running a Xantrex converter in my latest camper.
RE: opinnions on changeing from bigfoot?
Having owned several TCs over the years, we would vote for a Snowriver if you can find a clean one. Go with a slide whatever you buy because the few extra sq. ft. makes a huge difference.
RE: generac 2000 invertor style gen
I have used Honda generators commercially and privately since 1986 and have never had a problem.
Genreac is wellknown junk.
RE: The Point of No Return
We face the same thing. The ravages of age are limiting our foreword view. The "golden years" are laced with visits to the hospital and doctor's offices. My wife is 78 and I am 79 and we have to adjust,
I have always been a maintenance guy, but now I find myself letting things slide that I cannot do with my physical limitations.
We have given up month or two long trips. There will be no third trip to Alaska. We will take shorter trips closer to home, four to ten days. We use a SPOT so our family knows where we are. My wife is limited to 7500 ft altitude so we camp low, and I take the toad for high mountain views. We love the Utah desert which avoids the altitude problem.
We have had a spectacular run of travel life, and will not be too disappointed as we ease back on the throttle.
Ron and Margot.
RE: 2013 Ford Explorer battery drain
I use an 8GA charge wire to the toad from the truck.
This requires a separate connector from the tow lights system.
RE: Bear Attack in Denali
The man's family and the bear were innocent victims of deadly arrogance. Mr. White chose to ignore both rules and common sense. He in effect challenged the bear's genetic nature to where the bear reacted with explosive certainty.
RE: Power Sources - Newbie question
I am a big fan of AGM batteries.
AGM batteries have several advantages over both gelled and wet (flooded cell) batteries. Since all the electrolyte (acid) is contained in the glass mats, they cannot spill, even if broken. This also means that since they are non-hazardous, and the shipping costs are lower. In addition, since there is no liquid to freeze and expand, they are practically immune from freezing damage.
AGM batteries are "recombinant" — meaning that the oxygen and hydrogen recombine inside the battery. These use gas phase transfer of oxygen to the negative plates to recombine them back into water while charging and prevent the loss of water through electrolysis.
The charging voltages are the same as for any standard battery — no need for any special adjustments or problems with incompatible chargers or charge controls. And, since the internal resistance is extremely low, there is almost no heating of the battery even under heavy charge and discharge currents. AGM batteries have no charge or discharge current limits. AGM batteries to deliver and absorb higher rates of amperage than other sealed batteries.
AGMs have a very low self-discharge — from 1% to 3% per month is usual. This means that they can sit in storage for much longer periods without charging than lead acid batteries.
The AGM fast recharge means less generator time if you are boondocking.
The plates in AGM’s are tightly packed and rigidly mounted, and will withstand shock and vibration better than any standard battery. Rough roads don’t hurt the batteries.
An additional advantage is that 12v batteries over 6v is that if you need a spare for the truck it is there. If you have two 6v and one fails, the remaining 6v won’t run your system.
AGM’s will cost 2 to 3 times as much as flooded batteries of the same capacity. A 6v “golf cart” deep cycle is a better economic choice if the advantages of AGM are not important.
RE: Small Class C better than a TC?
When the camper and truck are married a divorce is out of the question. If you have a lemon truck it can be changed for a better one. If the camper it a horrible leaker, you get rid of it and keep your good truck.
That's not to say a small class "C" is not a good idea for some folks.
