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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Tire size different for frontt and rear axel
I agree with fcooper about getting the coach weighed. May help you spot a problem. Remember that the wheel and tire are both rated for how much weight it can carry. The axle is also rated. So you should be aware of all of these factors. You shouldn't overload the wheel with a huge tire.
Some coaches owners will put larger tires on the front for both weight and stability.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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01/20/13 08:11pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cummins 350 with 100k miles purchase?
Golden,
There is a buyers check list somewhere on this site. Did you read the article by JohnnyT on buying a coach? It is the 1st or 2nd message on this list.
If you get the oil tested, that tells you what metal is in the oil and can relieve some of the worry about the engine being abused. It also tells you if there is any other material like Antifreeze which would also be a show stopper.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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01/20/13 08:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cummins 350 with 100k miles purchase?
There is a Monacoers group on Yahoo and the most informative members around. If you have any questions they will answer. They are very specific so make sure to post which model you have.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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01/20/13 09:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Cummins 350 with 100k miles purchase?
Hi,
I think you should have the oil tested. You can google and find a kit they will send you. There has to be a few miles on the oil, can't be freshly changed.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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01/18/13 08:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel pump 96 F-53 chassis (Ford)
If the engine starts with the either, it is a gas issue not electical. The main solution of the motor running is to get the fuel pump primed. Remember it is a long way back to the tank and severl restarts may be necessary. Can you hear the FP clicking and then stop? That means it should be primed and fire on its own.
There is a fuel sock/strainer on the pump in the tank. This could be dirty and causing a problem. Mine was clogged once but the engine would run, just acted like a bad FP.
The problem with both the Generator and Engine not running would seem to indicate bad gas. 4 years is a lot of time on gas. And you right, it is what it is now.
If you think it may be bad gas, can you get enough out to add some new gas to the tank? You can disconnect the gas line at the fuel filter on the driverside rail and pump some gas into cans to empty the tank a bit. The fuel pump will with the key on should pump the gas out for you.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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11/30/12 07:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel pump 96 F-53 chassis (Ford)
Keith,
Use some starting fluid in the air intake. 1 squirt then crank, if it doesn't start then another squirt and crank
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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11/30/12 10:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel pump 96 F-53 chassis (Ford)
Hi Eric,
The fuel you pump in is cold sitting in the ground. You may have gotten the same result pumping in 20 gallons.
How are the Thorley headers working out? Why add the Banks equipment?
Thanks,
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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10/22/12 05:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel pump 96 F-53 chassis (Ford)
I agree that it is the temp of the gas. When I was having issues, I could put 10 or 20 gallons in and the problem would be solved for an hour or so.
Another time, we pulled into a CG and in the morning every thing was ok for a while.
I just had the 3rd pump installed since 2000. The 2nd was under warrantee 1 week after the first pump. I also had the fuel sack cleaned once.
If I took the towed off, I could do maybe 45-50mph, otherwise it was 30mph. When we diagnosed the 1st pump with a Ford Tech it took about 30min out on the road before the pump pressure would start dropping. They had to see that pressure drop before they okayed the warrantee.
If I have another problem, I'm going to the external pump.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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10/22/12 04:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel pump 96 F-53 chassis (Ford)
The problem sometimes is the fuel sack attached to the bottom of the pump. I had a mechanic drop the tank enough to remove the pump. The sack was plugged with some type of soot. I had him clean the sack and all fixed.
I would imagine this problem could raise issues with the new outboard pump.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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10/21/12 08:13pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Norcold Fridge wont start up
Hi Big,
The Power Supply board is about 80 bucks at Dinasaur if you think that is the culprit.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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10/19/12 11:21am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold Fridge wont start up
Hi,
Thought I would give you an update on the fridge.
I bought a Dinasaur power supply board, installed it and now my fridge works. Yehaw.
I really could not have done this without help from Chris Bryant. Thank you very much. Your RV repair shop is now listed with an excellent rating over at http://rvservicereviews.com
Thanks a bunch.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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10/09/12 08:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold Fridge wont start up
I called Chris at Bryant RV in DeLand FL.
Since I'm not sure about anything with this new to me fridge, I hated to throw a board at it and then find out the fridge is no good. I called Chris this morning and he told me how to bypass all of the boards. I hot wired the 120v heater leads(not for the faint of heart) to get the fridge going.
After an hour or so, I could feel the back side fridge heater area getting warm. Inside both the freezer and cooling fins in the fridge were getting cold. So I'm now comfortable with ordering a replacement Power Supply board for $78 + shipping.
Chris also explained some finicky issues with the EyeBrow board on the front of the fridge. I thought it was really nice of him to share all this info. I will be sure to stop in DeLand if I'm in the area
Thank you Chris for all the help.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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10/02/12 02:19pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold Fridge wont start up
Hi Chris,
It is a 662 Norcold.
During the specific testing you mention, I have 0v at the (B)base of the transistor Q2. This would indicate the Power Supply board is bad.
Since I know nothing about this fridge, is there a way to jump the board to get it going to see if the fridge gets cold? Hate to throw a board at it and then something else fails.
Thanks,
Mike
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ConnieAndMike
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10/01/12 01:10pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold Fridge wont start up
Mexbungalos,
No it was a health issue which sidelined the coach. But I think it didn't help in trying to make the sale. I meant the fridge didn't run for several years, not the coach. But it does only have 37k miles.
I used the grounding wire.
Chris,
After reading more about this Humidy switch I did try it in all the positions. No luck. Tomorrow I will jump it and see what happens.
I am getting the interior fridge light lit with the door open.
Allen,
I took the cover off and checked the 5amp and had 12+v on both sides of the fuse. There is another 3amp fuse that is dead altogether. I have to trace what that goes to.
I disconnected the 8lead harness that goes from the power board to the eyebrow panel. Tried to see if I had any juice comming out of the Power Board. I could not get any good readings there but I was just poking. Very difficult so I have to come up with a better way.
It has a newer Dinosaur ignighter board, so someone has been in here.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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09/30/12 09:34pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold Fridge wont start up
Hi Rich,
I did check for 12v at the back of the fridge. Can't be a fuse if I have 12v at the fridge, right.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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09/29/12 01:33pm |
Tech Issues
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Norcold Fridge wont start up
Hi,
I have a new to me 89 Ultrastar MH, after downsizing from our HR 37'.
The Norcold fridge will not come on, I get no illumination on the panel either in AC or Propane modes. I tested for 12v to the brain box in the back of fridge and cleaned the connectors Also blew out the flue and pilot area for cobwebs.
It has not be run for several years.
Any help on futher diagnostics would be really appreciated. It bothers me that the inside panel does not come on at all. Seems like a fuse.
Thanks,
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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09/29/12 12:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 1998 Bounder 36S Front Suspension Problem
Did you have this problem before you changed to the air spring?
This could be a tire balance issue. It can set up a vibration that can cause a shimmy. Since your feeling something at higher speeds, possibly you can rotate the 2 fronts to the rear and test it.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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08/03/12 11:18pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Generator Clacking
Get a gas can and use that for a temp tank. Buy some rubber tubing at the parts store. Remove the fuel pickup side of the Fuel Pump and replace it with a tube that goes to the gas can.
This is just temporary so any rubber tubing will be ok for this.
Once you prove/isolate then rehook up the original gas lines.
A clacking noise is usually internal engine issues which could get worse when hot and cause the enging to quit.
You need to get written estimates on the clacking noise and what ever else it is doing. If the estimate say fuel pump, then you have recourse. I would not have paid the bill for the FP until the clacking noise was repaired.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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08/03/12 08:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fuel pump 96 F-53 chassis (Ford)
Geeze WildOne, they are even more expensive than I thought. Make sure you have a warantee on it.
MikeD
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ConnieAndMike
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06/27/12 07:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trading up to a Class A Need some direction
OP- Bsiemons.
I posted you a private message with a MH I found that is quite a deal on a top end coach.
Mike
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ConnieAndMike
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06/18/12 08:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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