Yep....after a year of owning the 6.7 turbocharged Cummins, it screams up and down the ALTITUDE induced mountains up here compaired to my 8.1 big block with headers, ECM tune, CAI, Dual exhaust with dual Magnaflows.
And to the guy above that said....you want to drag? Yeah....bring it on up here in the mountains. I will even give your v-8 gas unit a head start. :B I think Dave has moved on, haven't seen any of his posts lately but he put a 502 CI Chevy which had over 500 HP in his 13,000 lb Revcon, I don't think a 6.7 L with 340 hp and weights 30,000 lbs can get high enough to win that drag race.
at Altitude? A naturally gas engine is a dog up here compared to ANY turbo charged diesel......especially with the torque advantage. HP doesn't do it up here.Well, since you woke up an old thread, I suppose I'll respond.
I've been at 8000+ ft before - traveling up S St Vrain HWY to AllensPark. DW was following in the Grand Cherokee and complained she had trouble keeping up. Power to weight ratio, and a well designed intake still flows pretty reasonable, even at high altitude. Only thing that slowed me was the corners, and those not much.
If you want to do the math, I loose about 100 hp at 8000 feet. That still leaves me at 320-340 HP pulling 13K lbs. So yah, bring it on.
Diesels need jake brakes or similar as there is no throttle plate, and thus no vacuum braking. We have pulled our 5000 lb over and down some 10,000 ft passes without problems. Just start down slowly and use the gear you climbed the hill in.Bingo, was just wondering if someone would point this out. Yep, when you close the throttle, there is a lot of resistance to the engine turning over.
GFI is not going to do anything for an overload.
We only plug ours into GFI receptacles with the assumption the GFI will trip if anything happens and before a fire starts.Typically the fire is not going to start from an overload or an electrical short. Most of the time, a fire is going to start from a poor internal connection. Heat causes poor connections, so the simple fact that the internal connections are in close proximity to heat, means they are much more susceptible to failure. That fact coupled with the fact that they operate at a high current means the are very prone to failure as they age.
The safer aspect of the big oil heaters is that the heat is dispersed over a large area, so the heat is less intense where the electrical connections are. That type of design is going to be less prone to fail.
Do you think the FT should be in the running?
Think I should include that 97 Newmar? It has 67000miles.
Thanks for the help!
StephenUltimately you are the only one that can answer that question, however the mileage on the FT is very low, so it is unlikely you will see any signs of wear. Take a good look at the photos of each coach with the slides out. Notice how the FT is different than the other 2. The other units use the same sealing method used in nearly every other coach out there, including your $20K trailers. Notice the FT is different. I'm pretty sure it uses an air lock to seal around the slide. (someone who has first hand knowledge please confirm) That is just one example of why one looks at an FT. I have no doubt if you saw each coach first hand, you would find many other little details that would help to clarify what you are getting when you are looking at an FT.
Unless they build that thing with a slide out, their idea of entering the US market is a joke. Yes, I know there are some who have no desire for a slide out, but both of you is not considered a market.
2008 Monaco Signature
Can I please have some unadultered feedback on this unit.
StephenI've been to the Monaco factory a few years back. I was not particularly impressed. In looking at the wall structure, the framing material is rather thin, about 1/3rd of the thickness of what is in my coach, and my coach is aircraft aluminum semi-monocoque construction, which is a stronger construction method. I don't know that the walls have any particular failure, but just structurally not as strong. The internal window framing did not go all the way up the window opening. It was about 2 inches away. The window clamping is on the skin and foam. Will they leak after 15 years, I don't know, but I was surprised to see that.
My experience with Foretravel is primarily with the brand overall, not as much with the latest units. Once they hit the 1990s, the build quality is substantial. Just they way things are done are a significant step above what I would call "production" coaches. You are just jumping to a different category.
As far as renting, I look to these guys for a quality rental unit. While the format may not be a pusher, they still are well built units that should give you a sense of the whole concept of RVing. Who knows, maybe you might just end up with one, although they won't be quite as nice as the FT, they still are pretty good. It will also tell you if you can tolerate the length.
I've been to the RV shows every years for the last 12 years. I will tell you that a Renagade is the only thing I would consider other than an FT, if I were in the market to spend big bucks.
That is a very very nice coach. I would be and am very tempted. Do you think they would be wildly negotiable? I am really trying to stay in my budget parameters. I think it would be easier if I weren't paying in CDN and in cash. I mean hey if someone is paying 3k per month what's another 500 a month.All you can do is ask. When you look at the ones they have sold and how much they have discounted them, it might be a possibility, which is why I posted.
I've not ever seen a ceramic heater go up in smoke, but I have seen several coil heaters smoke. What type was the one you had? Sometimes I have run 2 ceramic heaters on low heat, just to take the chill out of the air between furnace cycles.
Prefer 2012-14 but if recommended a better make that was 2009-10 will consider.
So I guess makes that fit in these loose criterion. Am I being unrealistic?
Thanks again!Would 500 ponies tempt you on a 2008 Foretravel?
The Foretravel is well above your other considerations.
I'm really not sure what this survey accomplishes. For a survey to any remote scientifically valid conclusion, one must survey total miles driven on every brand of tire being considered. In other words, the only valid statistic would be a failure per mile for X brand of tire. ANY OTHER CONCLUSION IS COMPLETELY INVALID. If 80% of OEM tires are of one particular brand, the reported failures will be disproportional for that brand. You need to have a separate survey for everyone who has not had a blowout to report the particular brand and how many blowout free miles they have driven.
Keep in mind, For Revcon, the actual weight is going to be considerably less than the weight rating. For instance, my coach fully loaded with clothes, tools and tanks full still has another 1500# of CCC left. I've never weighed it empty. I would suspect GMC probably doesn't have that much extra CCC.
As "Davinet" commented on this topic. To get back, put the MH in N and start the toad and PULL the MH back as far as needed. Your bride can be in the MH or toad whichever way works best for your family. Communication can be by phone or walkie talkie. We always use this method when we need to 'get back' more than a few feet.
This is a little risky. Most tow bars are rated for around 5000#. If you are pulling something at 4-5 times that weight, be aware of the damage it can cause to your bar.I could push my or your motorhome on flat level ground with my hands. Last time I checked, I could not push 5K lbs. The force to move a motorhome at 2 mph is much less than towing a 5K lbs car at 70 mph up an 6% grade.
There is a simple solution. IF you are backing straight up, lock the steering wheel. That will keep the wheel straight and prevent it from slamming one way or the other. The other solution is to put the motorhome in neutral, start the car and pull the motorhome back with the car. Second method is only advised if you are on flat hard ground. Don't try to pull the motorhome on soft dirt or up a hill. You should be able to roll the motorhome without stepping on the gas, but just idling backwards.
Don't know how you guys have such good luck with JB weld. While it is not a bad product, I had tried several times to repair my fuel tank with it. It would hold for a month or two, but eventually the alcohol in the fuel would break down the JB weld, and it would begin to leak again. JB Weld does not like Ethanol. It used to work with pure gasoline.
I should mention Seal All was the only thing that gave some resemblance of working. It too would eventually leak. After fighting it for about 7 years, I gave up and replaced the tank with plastic.
Revcon vs FMC...Basically the build quality of each unit is in the same class, but slightly different philosophy. Revcon had a strategic goal of building light weight. This meant some rather exotic construction material and methods to achieve that. The shell, frame, and interior is aircraft aluminum. The interior cabinets are hollow core. This means the center of gravity is at 29 inches. Total weight on the police scales for a 33 footer is just over 12K lbs. Handling is well balanced. At 70 mph, I did a quick turn left and swerved back so hard, I pulled a muscle in my back. The front end slid as it tried to swerve back into my lane. Even though the front slid, the vehicle gave no sign of loss of control. Absolutely no sway. When I straightened the wheel, I was driving along as if nothing happened. I've been caught by a microburst with recorded winds of 90 mph. No problem driving in it, other than the wind was opening the window awnings and slamming them against the side of the coach. Eventually I hit an exist and secured the awnings. On a 2 lane road, 60 mph, I have met a semi oncoming. Let go of the steering until he passed. The coach stayed straight. I tow a 4600 lbs Grand Cherokee. I've seen 98 mph on the GPS twice, and could easily be driven with 1 finger on the wheel.
The FMC did not have the specific design goal of being light. The bottom half is aluminum, while the top half is fiberglass. The cabinets are Formica laminate, but solid core. So just as durable, but not as light. So to handle the weight, you have heavier truck components. Not bad, but just different design goals. As far as handling, I've not driven one, but have read many different commentaries. Some will state the low profile means it handle high winds OK, while others comment on the weight of the engine in the rear. There are a few who have added weight to the front end to compensate for the weight of the engine in the rear. I get the impression that under some conditions, its fine, but under other conditions, its not the best. I assume its very similar to when I get my PC800 loaded on the rear bumper of my coach. If I just hold the wheel straight, its fine, but if I let go, it tends to wander. (Without the PC, it goes dead straight)
Something else not mentioned. Whatever you do as a temporary fix, run your heater the whole time you are driving. The reason is that the way the circulation works, you loose the water in your heater core long before your temperature gauge will ever show you are getting hot. This first sign is at idle, the heater will go cold. If this happens, you have not damaged anything, but you are beginning to run low. Eventually you will loose the heater at speed. At that point, you need to find a safe place to pull over and refill. This will give you plenty of warning long before any damage is done.
I should also mention, make sure you have hose fittings, so you can hook up a hose directly to one of your faucets and make sure the hose will reach your radiator. You don't want to be fumbling around with filling pots and pans and pouring it into the radiator. In other words, make sure your fill method from your fresh water tank is quick and easy. You don't want to be sitting on the side of the road messing around with it.
Without being there, I just have a hard time concluding contempt for the law. I have a ton of hours video recording from my helmet cam on my motorcycle. One of the things I have learned is how difficult it is to get any kind of accurate perception of speed or distance based on the video, especially on the freeway. Put this together with a way overly sensationalized media reporting, and I don't believe you get an accurate perception of what really happened.
There have been a lot of tests that show how certain suggestions will cause a normal mind to see things that are not there. For whatever made him think that the lane he was in was clear, (he commented on misreading the warning sign) at what point did he realize the lane he was in was not clear. From that moment, what options were available to him? Assuming he would need to be traveling at the same speed as the rest of the traffic to enter into the traffic lane, slowing down was not the best option. Once one looks for a spot, and realizes that option does not exist, you brake. If there is not enough distance to get stopped, he is only left with 3 options. Merge into traffic and wipe out several cars, run into the back of the cop car, or swerve into a lane which at least has the possibility of not hitting anything.
Again I would contend that the perception of speed and distance from the video is not accurate, based on my experience. I do remember the photo of the accident scene which showed the motorhome still between the 2 vehicles. If he was able to stop while he was still between the 2 vehicles, there is no way possible that the guy could have been going very fast, or he would not have been stopped till long after he had passed between the 2 vehicles. It is also obvious that he would have to have been braking the whole time. Choosing to go between the 2 vehicles was probably the best solution compared to rear-ending the cop car, or wiping out several cars in the lanes of traffic. The other 2 options would have guaranteed an accident and most likely injury. At that point, he picked the lessor or 3 evils.
The only real question is was he doing anything out of the ordinary. If he was traveling the same speed as the rest of the traffic, then the rest of the traffic is just as guilty as he is.
I would suggest the next time you are driving on a multi-lane road in an RV, see how many miles it takes you to do a simple lane change. Now factor in that everyone is slowing down, so if you are trying match the speed of the changing traffic, you are chasing a moving target. You can eat up a lot of road really quick.
There could be one other possibility. It is possible that there was a dispute between the owner and the tire manufacturer. It can take a long time to settle that kind of stuff. It could very well be that the tire manufacturer wore the guy down, which can really take the wind out of anyone's sails. Sure it financially unwise, but the stress of life can get the better of anyone. Sometimes dealing with an issue is more stressful than ignoring it. I will admit to having a few cobwebs of my own - like a Goldwing that has been sitting apart in my garage for a number of years. Life goes on.