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 > Your search for posts made by 'Daveinet' found 552 matches.

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RE: Class A Towing capacity

Doesn't a drop hitch derate the capacity? It does point out that most failures are more related to long term wear, as opposed to immediate catastrophic failure as many would have you believe. I inspect my coach as well as the toad base plate regularly. Maybe one of the reason I inspect often is because the welds are my welds.
Daveinet 09/29/14 04:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel Stops

Has anyone had a problem finding a fuel stop that you can pull into with a 33ft class A Gas pulling a dingy four down.Thanks in advance. jpWhat do you consider difficulty? If you consider not being able to get into every gas station you see a difficulty, then yes. Otherwise, no. Gas stations normally come in pairs, which means the odds of finding one that you can get in and out without unhooking is pretty high.
Daveinet 09/27/14 10:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold $33 million class action lawsuit

I'm surprised it took this long. I'm also very surprised the insurance companies didn't go after them along time ago.
Daveinet 09/26/14 07:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ever tow a pop-up behind your class A?

Some camp grounds, especially state campgrounds only allow 1 camping unit per site. Make sure you check ahead of time what the requirements are for every place you stay. If they only allow one unit, you may have difficulty getting side by side sites, unless you book ahead of time.
Daveinet 09/24/14 06:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dinette table coming loose AGAIN

I'm so sorry I didn't make myself clear in my post. It's the pressed board on the bottom of the pressed board Table that's basically destroyed. Last time I drilled two more holes in the brackets screwed to the Table but they have stripped out again. Forgive me guys...Same solution only glue the wood to the bottom of the table. Predrill the holes into the solid wood. They should not strip out.
Daveinet 09/24/14 06:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dinette table coming loose AGAIN

I have the same issue, my current thoughts are a 1x4 long enough to reach the nearest studs, screw it to the studs and reattach the table brackets to the 1x4 Of course I would have to pretty up the 1x4 :)I wood take it one step farther. Glue the board to the wall. That dissipate the load over a large area, so it should hold just fine.
Daveinet 09/23/14 05:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stupid question about filling tires

An answer to your question about CFM CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute. So what that is talking about is air flow (not pressure) The more air it can flow, the faster it will fill the tires. What you will find is that as the pressure gets higher and higher, the air flow rate (CFM) rate goes down. The implication of this is that less CFM means it takes longer to fill your tires. The 2 ratings you gave in your post are impossible to compare, as the ratings are given at 2 different pressures. SO you need to buy a compressor capable of pumping to 110 PSI. That is a minimum requirement. The CFM will tell you how fast it will fill them.
Daveinet 09/21/14 08:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A - How often should it be driven?

I exercise my generator every month and run the engine in the MH every month.Do you drive it down the road, or just run it? IF you do not drive it 15 to 20 miles each time, you are doing more damage than good. The engine and transmission needs to get hot enough to equalize the temp throughout the whole engine and then maintain that temp to burn any condensation out. You also need to do this for your tires. The tires have emulsifiers that are released from flexing the rubber. Again, that stuff needs to get worked around. It would be nice to get caught in a few rain storms while you have it out, so you get the sea salt washed off, especially if you are camped near the coast.
Daveinet 09/16/14 01:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blown Engine, 8.1l

Some that own Class C RV's argue that's previsely why they own a C, anyone who can work on an "E" series van (for Fords) can fix a Class C. I've heard that, too, but I don't understand it. There's nothing mystical about a gas engine installed in a truck chassis versus a van chassis engine- or transmission-wise. Mechanically they're the same. Accessibility to normally hard-to-reach stuff is MUCH better on a Class A gasser versus a van chassis.Depends, While that may be true for some stuff, a van, the engine comes out the front. In a class A, its anyone's guess, and often comes out the bottom. You also have the problem where the house manufacturers move stuff, so what you have is unpredictable. Many class Cs are lighter and not as tall, so you can put them on an automotive lift. A class A needs a much bigger lift.
Daveinet 09/16/14 06:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How much weight do you tow? and with how much motor?

I tow 4600 lbs with a gasser. I get slowed down to about 80 mph up a 6% grade. I'm running somewhere between 420 and 440 HP. In you original post you stated both engines you were looking at were 300 HP. Assuming optimum gearing, both engines are going to pull your 6% grade at the same speed, regardless of their torque rating. HP always tells you how fast you will go up a grade. Torque will tell you how often it will downshift on smaller grades. When comparing your gasser to those DPs, assuming limited altitude, those 300 hp DPs are going to be slower than your gasser on steep grades. The only advantage is the DP does not loose power at higher altitudes. If you want more power, then you have to buy more power. I'm betting 450 hp or more is much more likely to satisfy.
Daveinet 09/13/14 02:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2015 Winnebago Forza 34T, 340 HP enough?

The only improvement you have made is the addition of the turbo which is able to compensate for the high altitude. At high altitudes, your DP will perform like your gasser did at low altitudes. So if you gasser was able to handle the grades in low altitude, then you DP would be able to handle the same % grades at any altitude. If you were unhappy with your gasser at low altitude, then you will be unhappy with your DP at any altitude.
Daveinet 09/13/14 02:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How close is too close

The routing of lines may very or even be modified by the coach manufacturer, so it is impossible to predict what shielding is necessary. Thorley sold me a shield when I put my headers on. BTW: the reason to install headers over "perfectly good" OEM design is because the OEM design runs too hot and puts excessive stress on the engine. A properly designed header and exhaust will allow the engine to run substantially cooler than OEM.
Daveinet 09/12/14 04:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How close is too close

I've always had mixed feelings about the concept of wrapping things to protect from heat, especially in the case where the fluid is not moving. A wrap will only slow the transfer of heat, not dissipate it. OK, so it buys you time on a long grade, but how much time do you need. I would much rather see a heat shield. If the shield is big enough, areas of the shield will be away from the header and be able to dissipate the heat away. I would try to pick up some aluminum sheeting, as it is easy to bend and has good heat transfer characteristics. Its also less likely to rust.
Daveinet 09/12/14 11:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowout, bad and good luck

One comment about old tires. We really don't know why the tire let go, so there are a lot of assumptions made. Steel belted tires normally fail due to tread separation. On the 3 motorhome tires that I have had blow, all of them gave a small warning before they let loose. The tread began to separate, which caused a small amount of vibration first. The vibration went from noticeable to really bad just before the tire let go. It would useful to know if it was tread separation and if there was a warning vibration first.
Daveinet 09/10/14 12:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blowout, bad and good luck

It was also tricky getting the MH straightened out without losing control-------------it would have been very easy to over-correct.There is a natural reaction to react quickly to any change of motion when you are driving. Many years ago, I had a Jeep that would change lanes every time you hit a bump. It tought me to just lock the steering wheel position until the vehicle settled down, which prevented that natural reaction to over correct. Same applies to an RV. Any time something bad happens, one's first reaction should be to freeze your steering wheel position until the rocking motion subsides. Then make a small correction to put the coach where it needs to be. It takes some mental effort to force one's self to think that way, but that is the only way to prevent over correction. Glad it all worked out. You have bragging rights.
Daveinet 09/10/14 06:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: cost of propane

Is there any farm coops?? That is one alternative source I have used. Many of your rental shops sell propane, but they are usually the most expensive. Look up your local distributor that fills home propane tanks, that should be the cheapest. Around here, Menards started selling propane for RVs. That has been the cheapest anywhere. They are trying to build an infrastructure for propane fueled vehicles. They have different prices based on use. The operator just punches into the computer what it is for, and the amount is calculated at the pump.
Daveinet 09/08/14 06:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mercedes Benz RV - Boondocking - I Want One!!!!!

Interesting videos. I didn't realize the Ford was so bad. I always thought their frame was stiffer than GM. When you go off road though, you normally release the torsion bar, that way the axle will articulate and the tires stay in contact with the ground, so they can get traction.
Daveinet 09/07/14 07:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mercedes Benz RV - Boondocking - I Want One!!!!!

Don't know if it is an optical illusion, but the box looks twisted compared to the cab. While there are some places it could go, I would fear it being too top heavy and prone to roll. Ends up being too much ground clearance. No illusion part of the independent off road suspension, the best of the off road RV s have this type of Cab separation......all the weight is LOW, not easy to flip at all... Ok, I'm sorry, I have to correct you on this one. Unimog is a solid portal axle, not independent suspension. The axles are raised up above wheel center line for greater ground clearance. That means the frame height is significantly higher, putting the engine higher, as well as the steel box. A quick search on Youtube shows a an empty bed bouncing around with no frame twist between the bed and the cab. Another video shows with a weighted bed and significant twist of the frame. Normally when you go off road, you want the articulation in the axles, not the frame.
Daveinet 09/06/14 09:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mercedes Benz RV - Boondocking - I Want One!!!!!

Don't know if it is an optical illusion, but the box looks twisted compared to the cab. While there are some places it could go, I would fear it being too top heavy and prone to roll. Ends up being too much ground clearance.
Daveinet 09/05/14 07:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Staying at Walmarts and such

.... and it helps the local economy.Someone thinks RVers do not shop at Wal-Mart. The typical overnighter spends much more money at Wal-mart for a nights stay, than they would ever spend at a campground.
Daveinet 09/05/14 11:24am Class A Motorhomes
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