Many RVs have different size tires front and rear, so one would be restricted from rotating.
On the other had, I rotate my tires because I have front wheel drive. My fronts wear much faster than the rears, so when they are about half worn, they get moved to the rear and a new set gets put on the front. The rears on mine take for ever to wear, so they get cycled through. I end up buy two tires every third year. This way I can get reasonable traction in the snow.
To the OP, I would suggest doing a benchmark zero to 60mph test before you install the new muffler. Gas mileage can do funny things, based on weather, driving conditions and even the fuel you are using. Doing a benchmark test on the same fuel tank and hopefully the same day, with the same weather should give you a more direct comparison.
Or you can just drop one of these bad boys in there fro a lot less money.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/izl-dp10002g/overview/. It is a kit with its own sensors, so it will work with anything. I recently installed this unit in my coach. I've not gotten it formally mounted, but it works pretty well. My only complaint is the bright light indicator is too bright. You can put a piece of paper under the glass to make it dimmer.
RE: BTW:The older V10 is well known to have breathing issues. One indicator is if you look on the Banks website, you can see their test results, which are substantial for the older V10. In contrast, the newer V10 does not gain much.
What is considered older? The OP has a 2004 I believe and mine is a 2008.2 valve vs 3 valve. The transition happened happened at the end of 2005. Once you hit the 3 valve engine, they fixed the worst of the breathing problems.
Yes, Magnaflow. straight through perforated pipe is going to be the most like any open pipe as you can get. There are all kinds of tricks manufacturers have tried to pull, with some working to various degrees, but nothing will compare to a straight through muffler. I tried a coupe of different Flowmasters, which had measured performance loss - the 70 series killed my fuel mileage and were still noisy. Lost 10% on my zero to sixty times. My experiments were with no other changes other than mufflers. (although I did some tuning attempts to try to "fix" the Flowmasters based on their ignorant customer assistance recommendations)
BTW:The older V10 is well known to have breathing issues. One indicator is if you look on the Banks website, you can see their test results, which are substantial for the older V10. In contrast, the newer V10 does not gain much.
I drive the motorhome in the snow every year and have been doing so for the last 12 years. The BIG advantage a motorhome has over any other vehicle is the long wheelbase. If the rear of the motorhome slides sideways 1 foot, the change in direction is very small. Back in the 80s, we took my parents motorhome out to test it in the snow. We had a very lightly traveled freeway behind our house. So got up to about 40 mph, and spun the rear wheels and then turned the front wheels. As the vehicle began to slide, we found it was extremely easy to correct. The long wheelbase meant that you had all day to turn the wheel and follow it in the slide. The other thing we found is that the side of the coach makes for a huge sail. As you start to get sideways, the air catches the rear of the coach and restricts how far it will go sideways. Kind of like a parachute on the back of a drag car.
Of course, you do have to realize that you can't stop and that if you need to change direction quickly, it will not happen. Take the corners slow, give yourself lots of space. But when you are traveling straight down the freeway with no other cars, you are very stable. Here we are, traveling at about 60+ though Indiana.
I would suggest wiring up a way to hotwire the fuel pump, and splice in a bypass on the fuel line. Not only is it safer, but much more convenient to use. Install a valve and let the fuel pump pump the fuel out of the tank into your car or lawnmower. No thief is going to be smart enough to figure out you have an extra hose connected to the fuel line. Most auto parts stores sell a dual tank valve. This way, when you turn on the pump, it closes the fuel off to the engine and switches to your extra hose. Simple and easy to use.
Make sure you show up at the court date, assuming the other driver recieved a ticket. I know when I have been at court, listening to other cases, when an accident is involved, the court will normally inquire if the damages have been paid. Most of the time, the people who were the victims never show up in court, so the defendant usually just claims it has been settled. Ultimately, the other driver is responsible for the damages, regardless of what the insurance company does. If it is not paid in a timely fashion, the other driver will loose their license. I would be harassing the other driver. He is the one who owes you the money.
Doesn't a drop hitch derate the capacity?
It does point out that most failures are more related to long term wear, as opposed to immediate catastrophic failure as many would have you believe. I inspect my coach as well as the toad base plate regularly. Maybe one of the reason I inspect often is because the welds are my welds.
Has anyone had a problem finding a fuel stop that you can pull into with a 33ft class A Gas pulling a dingy four down.Thanks in advance. jpWhat do you consider difficulty? If you consider not being able to get into every gas station you see a difficulty, then yes. Otherwise, no. Gas stations normally come in pairs, which means the odds of finding one that you can get in and out without unhooking is pretty high.
Some camp grounds, especially state campgrounds only allow 1 camping unit per site. Make sure you check ahead of time what the requirements are for every place you stay. If they only allow one unit, you may have difficulty getting side by side sites, unless you book ahead of time.
I'm so sorry I didn't make myself clear in my post. It's the pressed board on the bottom of the pressed board Table that's basically destroyed. Last time I drilled two more holes in the brackets screwed to the Table but they have stripped out again. Forgive me guys...Same solution only glue the wood to the bottom of the table. Predrill the holes into the solid wood. They should not strip out.
I have the same issue, my current thoughts are a 1x4 long enough to reach the nearest studs, screw it to the studs and reattach the table brackets to the 1x4 Of course I would have to pretty up the 1x4 :)I wood take it one step farther. Glue the board to the wall. That dissipate the load over a large area, so it should hold just fine.
An answer to your question about CFM
CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute. So what that is talking about is air flow (not pressure) The more air it can flow, the faster it will fill the tires. What you will find is that as the pressure gets higher and higher, the air flow rate (CFM) rate goes down. The implication of this is that less CFM means it takes longer to fill your tires. The 2 ratings you gave in your post are impossible to compare, as the ratings are given at 2 different pressures.
SO you need to buy a compressor capable of pumping to 110 PSI. That is a minimum requirement. The CFM will tell you how fast it will fill them.
I exercise my generator every month and run the engine in the MH every month.Do you drive it down the road, or just run it? IF you do not drive it 15 to 20 miles each time, you are doing more damage than good. The engine and transmission needs to get hot enough to equalize the temp throughout the whole engine and then maintain that temp to burn any condensation out. You also need to do this for your tires. The tires have emulsifiers that are released from flexing the rubber. Again, that stuff needs to get worked around. It would be nice to get caught in a few rain storms while you have it out, so you get the sea salt washed off, especially if you are camped near the coast.
Some that own Class C RV's argue that's previsely why they own a C, anyone who can work on an "E" series van (for Fords) can fix a Class C.
I've heard that, too, but I don't understand it. There's nothing mystical about a gas engine installed in a truck chassis versus a van chassis engine- or transmission-wise. Mechanically they're the same. Accessibility to normally hard-to-reach stuff is MUCH better on a Class A gasser versus a van chassis.Depends, While that may be true for some stuff, a van, the engine comes out the front. In a class A, its anyone's guess, and often comes out the bottom. You also have the problem where the house manufacturers move stuff, so what you have is unpredictable. Many class Cs are lighter and not as tall, so you can put them on an automotive lift. A class A needs a much bigger lift.
I tow 4600 lbs with a gasser. I get slowed down to about 80 mph up a 6% grade. I'm running somewhere between 420 and 440 HP.
In you original post you stated both engines you were looking at were 300 HP. Assuming optimum gearing, both engines are going to pull your 6% grade at the same speed, regardless of their torque rating. HP always tells you how fast you will go up a grade. Torque will tell you how often it will downshift on smaller grades. When comparing your gasser to those DPs, assuming limited altitude, those 300 hp DPs are going to be slower than your gasser on steep grades. The only advantage is the DP does not loose power at higher altitudes. If you want more power, then you have to buy more power. I'm betting 450 hp or more is much more likely to satisfy.