He also mentioned, as an idea to anyone "in a bind", that there are alternatives if the alternator stops working and need to get from point A to point B. Can run the generator with jumper cables from the house batteries to the engine batteries. The generator would keep the house batteries charged, while the jumper cables would keep the engine batteries charged from the house batteries. Might work also if use solar panels.I've done that on a 500 mile trip. It was working great till the generator cut out because I was low on fuel. Oops. Panic trying to find a fuel station. Easiest way to test the alternator is turn the headlights on and confirm it maintains voltage. I fired up the RV to get ready for Easter. In the context of this thread, I hit my headlights and anything else I could turn on. The voltage blipped 1/10th of a volt and came back up to 14.2 volts. The battery was a little low from sitting for 3.5 months, as it normally sits at 14.3 volts.
If these calculations are correct, he should be able to smell that much loss by walking around his rig.
I wonder if by topping off the tank at home using his portable gas can, he may be covering the internal vent line in the tank with liquid gasoline. As the temperature changes, this raw gas escapes out the vent/charcoal canister. Unless we live next door to a gas station, most of us probably burn a gallon or two just getting back home after a fillup and therefore have a little air space in the tank.
In other words, it might not be possible to keep a gas tank completely full in an unstable environment without somehow sealing the vent lines.
That was my thought, they had a add on TV here in Vegas for a few years about not topping off your tank at the pump, when the pump clicks off that's all the fuel you need, the rest evaporates off and causes our air quality to go down during the summer, maybe his fuel lost is from filling over full with a portable gas tank every 2 weeks..That assume that you don't burn off the excess driving home from the gas station. It could be that he burns a 1/2 gallon round trip, and the other 1/4 goes into the canister. The canister is purged when you drive it, so it does not build up stink, when working properly.
I would also suggest another possibility. He could have a stuck injector. The expansion of fuel in the tank will push through a leaky injector and drip into the intake. Since it is burnt off, it goes unnoticed. I would look down the intake. Turn the key, which will turn the fuel pump on to build pressure. It also pulses the injectors. Once the pulse is done, look and see if either injector drips afterword. If it does, the injector is sticking partially open.
Why don't you come up with a better mouse trap and put the 'man' down, dude?There is. You can purchase a much heavier duty aftermarket cooling unit that takes much longer to rust out and burst. It costs more money, so most people won't bother to buy it.
The problem occurs when you end up with a pulsed DC output. The regulator has a relatively slow response time ie high frequency noise filtering. This means that it will react to an average voltage of the pulsed DC, rather than the peak voltage. The average voltage is going to be .707 of the peak, which means the peak voltage will be 1.4 X higher than 14.3 volts. That is around 20 volts peak comming out of the alternator. Depending on the output diode ratings, the output diodes may be OK with that, or that might make them a little unhappy.
When rectifying AC to DC, one uses some sort of storage device (capacitor) to store the voltage and supply current inbetween the pulsed output. That capacitor will charge up to the peak voltage, and assuming it is large enough to handle the load, will only discharge slightly. In the case of an alternator, the battery is the storage device and charges to the peak voltage. This means that the regulator is seeing the full peak voltage out of the alternator, so it regulates to 14.3 volts.
With so many fires, and product failures, how can Norcold continue to do business? Also, have you ever called their service center for assistance, talk about rude.You can say the same thing about our government. Ironically the answer is the same for both - no competition, its too hard for newcomers to break into the market. You are stuck with with what the system will provide. At least with your fridge, you have the option to replace it with a completely different type.
Not trying to start a political rant, just an observation of the limitations of the way the not so free market works.
With a meter connected to the alternator, turn the headlights on. You should see a dip in the voltage, and then see it recover for the most part. It may go down a couple of 10nths, but not much more. If it does not recover, then suspect the alternator. If you want a comparison, do the same test with the engine off. that will verify if the alternator is charging, or if it finally died. (You may have killed it from the earlier bad sense wire connection)
A Motorhome is built on a truck frame, it is a truck. How silly is your argument that you can't turn right from the left lane. Make your lane change and turn right. The traffic direction say drive in this or that lane not turn across traffic.
In my precinct your life and driving if it is a indicated would have put you and your MH in jail. I had zero tolerance for those thinking laws were for the other fellow. Drive in wrong lane, get a citation, mouth off, go to jail and have MH impounded.Wow, I have great concern for a cop that would have that kind of attitude. You have been made aware of a Supreme Court ruling, yet you have stated that your would ignore that Supreme Court ruling and choose to interpret the law in the way that you see fit. I guess I would have hoped that our law enforcement officers had better integrity than that.
If you get as far north as Grand Rapids and would enjoy horseback riding, Rainbow Ranch is a great place to go.
Very pleasant place. Lots of woods, small ravines and lots of deer, especially if you go on a morning ride. Its always a highlight of our trip when you go to Silver Lake.
BTW: Silver Lake is a 400 acre sand dunes off road park. You can drive your own vehicle or rent Jeeps for a guided tour. Its pretty tame during the weekdays, but on weekends, it gets pretty wild. We've only gone during the week, so I only have that perspective. There is also a light house that you can go up inside.
One problem you do run into is that as the ramps get higher, you start to run into clearance problems under the coach. TO get 14 inches, your ramp will have to be extremely long, especially if your motorhome has much overhang in front of the front axle. It also means you must only drive forward onto the ramps. You can't put the ramps behind the front wheels and back onto them. At 8 inches, that is about the maximum height I can put under my parents Allegro W22 and still back onto the ramps.
Try telling the Californian court that.
You might get harassed, or an uneducated cop might even ticket you, but you would get off on a technicality. There was a federal supreme court decision back in the 70s that determined that an RV is in its own class and is not classified as a truck. This means that any regulation must specifically call out a motorhome somewhere in the law. (often times the definitions of terms are given as a preface for the law) Most likely it would be stated in the preface in the regulation designating the definition of a truck. If the law does not specifically outline the definition to include a motorhome, then you did not have a good lawyer to argue the case. Particularly when many signs on the same route refer specifically to trucks that are not motorhomes, such as weight stations. You can't have the definition of a truck randomly change along the same highway. Any lawyer worth his salt should know how to present the case, especially when its a Supreme Court decision.
Depends if you are talking the front end, or the rear end. I have stack of five 2X12s bolted together. Each board is slightly longer and the ends are cut as a diagonal, so it works like a ramp. This gets me about 8 inches. I have driven the front of my Dad's W22 onto these ramps and it works just fine. One could probably get away with maybe one board higher, but I don't think I would go higher than that without a wider more stable base. I think you could build ramps about 10 inches high, and then put blocks under the hydraulic jacks to lift it the rest of the way. Just make sure the jacks do not take too much weight off the front wheels, as it would be very unstable.
You might get harassed, or an uneducated cop might even ticket you, but you would get off on a technicality. There was a federal supreme court decision back in the 70s that determined that an RV is in its own class and is not classified as a truck. This means that any regulation must specifically call out a motorhome somewhere in the law. (often times the definitions of terms are given as a preface for the law)
My advice would be to use common sense. Generally speaking, use the truck lane. Now of course if you want to pass a truck on the right, you have the legal right to do so, but it may not be the wisest choice, especially if you are about to go under an overpass, you don't want to be next to a semi when the lane goes narrow.
Water is one of the byproducts of your cat. I'm not sure why some systems produce more water than others, but all of them do produce a small amount of water. I had a Jeep that produced massive amounts of water. With the old Jeep, there was a return tube on the cat that fed back into the intake. There was so much water dumping back into the intake, it actually would ice up the carb. I finally disconnected the tube, and ran it that way in the winter. Usually every fall, I would forget and get pulled over to the side of the road when it quite running. Just a matter of pulling the tube, and then knocking the ice down into the engine where it would melt, so I could start it up and drive it. Strangest thing. I never did figure out why it did that, but just dealt with it. I don't think it was a head gasket, as it never used water.
Depends on the type of sputter. First thing I would do is make sure all the spark plug wires are pushed on all the way. The 8.1 was notorious for spark plug wires coming off. The problem was that because of the short length of wire, it was very easy to not install the wire all the way. As a result, they would come unplugged. Its not a persistent problem, once they are plugged in correctly, they do not fall off. Its just a matter of difficulty getting them plugged in all the way. If someone is just the least bit lazy, they will miss one or two. You need to make sure you feel the snap down into place, rather than just pushed on.
Don't think of the Tow/Haul switch as an automatic must turn on anytime you are towing. Use it as an "on Demand" feature based on need. If you notice the coach is shifting often, or you are in a hilly area, then use it based on need. It is unlikely you would desire it when you are on flat freeway, unless you encounter a really strong headwind. This feature changes the shift points, so it will affect your mileage.
IF you look at a class C, the first thing you want to do is to try backing up into a confined area. You will soon realize you can't stick your head out the window and see what is next to you. Sometimes it is hard to judge distance, only with your mirrors.
Actual ride quality may vary, depending on what class A you are looking at, but generally speaking, the wider track in the front is going to give you a little more stability. A class A is much heavier over all. This means a much more rigid frame, which forces the suspension to handle bumps, rather than the frame flexing. OK yes it still flexes, but not as much.
I will also qualify my comments that they are assuming a class C means a van front end. A Super C (such as a Renegade) is a whole nuther ball game, and will quite often out handle and offer better ride quality than a class A.
So, no question you have a sense wire. From the photos, it looks like there is a ground wire, but it looks like the bolt is loose. Please tell me that is just the way the photo looks and the ground lug is tight. Make sure the crimp is tight. WD40 may not be the best. While it displaces water, it does not enhance the electrical connection. A quick and dirty solution just for testing would be to jumper the sense wire to the power lug. This would prevent over voltage condition and it would probably charge OK. The charging may be a little weak, but it would work properly for a temporary test. If jumpering the sense wire brings the voltage back to normal, Do NOT replace your alternator, as it is not the source of the problem. While less costly repair, it may take some time to figure out where the bad connection is.