I have a suggestion. Do not buy a toad right now. Rent a car for the rest of your vacation and then tow your toad home. Do not put yourself in a situation where you are forced to make a decision on the road with little time to shop. You can probably find better deals in your home town, rather than being forced into something that may not be the best choice. Rent a car and enjoy the rest of your vacation.
I would contend that the longevity of a gas engine mostly has to do with if you run it regularly and maintain it. Biggest problem RV engines have is that they sit for several months in the off season, which allows moister to accumulate, which introduces rust.
A comment a few posts above speaks of mileage comparison. It may have been hyperbole, but there is not that much difference in BTU content between gas and diesel. Its only around 13%. Detonation is a little more efficient, but not enough to double the mileage. I'm pretty sure my engine would do just fine in the place where most diesels are used. Gear ratio would need to be changed to match red line, but it would do the job just fine.
Of course in terms of a MH climbing a mountain, if you run out of traction, you have other issues to worry about other than can you maintain 60mph.That's a problem I have in the rain. I can't floor it at freeway speeds without spinning the tires in the wet.
How fast you accelerate to that max velocity up hill is a function of torque and weight.I'm not sure I agree with this statement, because it makes an assumption about RPM. All the torque in a world is nothing without RPM. Back in the day, I could leg press over 1000 lbs, but give me a bicycle pedals and hook me up to your drive shaft, and I'm not going to accelerate your 30K lbs motorhome. Leg pressing 1000 lbs was very slow, so I would be limited by RPM. Since the RPM is limited, there would be no RPM room for torque multiplication to increase the torque to the drive wheels.
Basically it comes down to the fact that one can not quantify any performance without both torque and RPM. Torque alone does not quantify the actual output. That is why the quantification of HP exists as it quantifies total output.
Mr. Mark, I am surprised you have not seen anyone talk about torque vs HP. We talk about it all the time. The problem with a torque spec is that it is incomplete, as it does not account for the torque multiplication of the drivetrain. If the engine is limited to low RPM, the drivetrain can not multiply the torque to the wheels because the gear ratio is too low. Basically, the diesel has little headroom to downshift. At freeway speeds, you can probably only go down one gear and gain a small amount of pull. I can drop 2 gears and smoke by most anything, including a lot of cars.
Torque gives the perception of power because all of the power the engine has is available without downshifting. When you do downshift, you don't gain much. For a high HP/lower torque gas engine, all of its available power is achieved by RPM, so when the engine spins faster, the gearing multiplies the torque to the drive wheels. Its simple math, but to prove it out, one needs to go through all the gear ratios and calculate wheel torque.
In the practical sense, very simply, the HP spec tells you how hard it will pull when the throttle is wide open. The torque spec gives you some indication as to how often you will downshift. People generally like a lot of torque, because they don't like the idea of downshifting. Ultimately while that is important, it doesn't tell you anything about how much it can pull up a hill.
BTY:There was an earlier comparison of a Duramax 300 hp/600ft-lbs torque. It was compared to a 454, which had 230 HP and 390ft-lbs of torque. 300HP vs 230HP which one is faster? well dah. Compare that to an 8.1 and the 8.1 will slowly pull away. (340HP /450ft-lbs torque) Still lower torque, but more powerful.
Umm, Hopefully you understand that these are questions you need to ask yourself. Don't bother asking the person selling the unit as you will not likely get an unbiased opinion. Not that all sellers are particularly dishonest, but their opinions may not tell you what you really need to know.
I own a GL1800 and a DP. I guess you could say that. :)
and I own a BMW K1200LT (aka flying couch) along with a few sport bikes....so i guess thats why i don't get the analogy.
I was thinking maybe the comment was made based on truckers & harley riders affinity toward chrome...but obviously i was off base there too....and as we know wing riders can go crazy w/ the chrome too ;)I'm going to assume the analogy did not make sense because you and I were talking about 2 very different front engine diesels. Maybe you have not seen a FRED or looked one over very close. The one I saw was an Allegro. It was really a very low end class A coach. But no matter who puts a shell on it, it is still a lighter weight, leaf spring chassis with a small diesel engine. The only people who bought it were those that somehow thought that because it burnt diesel fuel, that it was somehow magically better than a gas coach. You can read the test reports and read opinions of those who test drove them. No one was particularly impressed. It was not some terrible piece of junk or anything, but it was nothing special. You paid a little extra just to say you owned a diesel, even though there was no particular advantage.
So in this person's opinion, while the Harley is not some terrible bike, I do know that if I was trying to earn my Iron Butt, which bike I would choose.
Maybe I should be a little more clear in the first part of my post. There was a specific class A chassis called a FRED. That was the glorified gas chassis with a diesel engine. Unfortunately the term FRED has become generic to mean anything with a diesel mounted in the front. I believe FRED was actually trade marked, so when using the term FRED, it should only refer to the glorified gas chassis with a diesel engine. The term should not be used for anything else, such as the Kodiak class or the semi-truck conversions. Those are a whole different ball game.
What is the largest bag or highest lift bag out there. All I see is bags that lift 5000 lbs. Is that the max lift?
BusterFor add on after market bags, yes. However that does not mean you are limited to those bags. You can buy virtually anything.
You can start here:
Air bags are probably not stock. They may have been added because the previous owner felt the rear was sagging. The air bags will probably not lift the weight of the coach. Measure the diameter and then calculate the surface area. Multiply the surface area X the air pressure. That will tell you how much lift they will provide. Typical air bags capable of handling the whole weight of the coach would be 10 to 12 inches in diameter.
If you are talking about a FRED class chassis, it is basically a glorified gas chassis, with a diesel stuck in it. Not much of an advantage. Typically will not have air ride, and the engine is up where you have to listen to it. You take a hit on power and less torque at the drive wheels. Its not an idea that makes a lot of sense, unless you plan to put a million miles on it and can't afford a good sized pusher.
Dare I say its a lot like comparing a Harley to a Goldwing.
It may very well be just a vent line. Stupid alcohol in the fuel eats fuel lines. My parents 2004 Allegro (W22) also developed a leak which turned out to be a deteriorated vent line.
BTY: JB Weld is good for a lot of things, but fuel tanks are not one of them. I've tried more than once on a pin hole leak on a weld on my aluminum tank. Even the JB Weld fuel repair kit with the fiberglass reinforcement does not work. The alcohol in the fuel is just too strong of a solvent. Of all the things I tried, Seal All was about the best. It lasted for several months before it began to leak again. After that, I used Seal All again, but then covered it with Great Stuff. That actually lasted a whole year.
i'd recommend the Paul Wolff campground in the Burnidge Forest Preserve in Elgin, IL. electric hookups with fresh water fill and two dump stations. the suburban Metra commuter railroad has a nearby station that will get you downtown.X2 Paul Wolf camp ground is really pretty nice, especially for large rigs. You are a ways out, but you are in a vary large forest preserve that is not congested like everywhere else in Chicago area.
Some of the older switching type power supplies used to not like modified sign wave inverters, however most modern switching supplies don't care. They used to be confused by the noise generated by the abrupt switching. Modern designs are more stable and not screwed up by the noise.
The only weird thing that may or may not bother you is the cabinetry is a different color wood that the cabinet doors. The reason is the cabinet frames are covered in cheap paper, but the doors are real Oak. Full solid wood cabinets were an option, but many went with cheap. Can't figure out why they couldn't get the color to match.
The EPA had nothing to do with the failure of the UFO. Poor sales caused the demise of the UFO chassis. A gas engine in the rear of a motorhome will not sell because of additional chassis features available on a diesel chassis. Such as, air brakes and air suspension. Plus the fact that even a low end diesel engine has twice the torque of the 8.1.
-TomActually it was only misleading information like this that hurt the sales. If you talk to anyone who has one, they love them. They use coil springs, so the ride is as good as many cars. Power wise, the 8.1 will stomp on half the diesels out there. Again talk to the people that own them.
Reality check: Torque is about wheel torque in what ever gear you are running in. Fact, at the rpm gas engines are running at, the wheel torque exceeds most of the smaller diesel wheel torque ratings. Anyone who actually takes the time to read the posts of those who own the coaches, you will find that even pulling mountains, the smaller DPs are going slower up the passes than the gassers.
Doing this is not for beginners, I suggest that you take it to a reliable RV dealer and pay them to install it, that way if something goes wrong they are liable.:h Um this does not take a rocket scientist. Most likely the OP is smarter than the typical RV mechanic/hack. Those guys are not the highest paid on the food chain.
A couple of things. First for starters, We are going to assume that you really mean an inverter - a device that converts 12 volts to 110 volts. If that is correct, then continue reading.
Generally speaking when you are talking about voltage, you either have low voltage/high current, or high voltage/lower current. High current means heavy wire to handle it. So the best advice is to install the inverter right next to the batteries, that way you have short runs and low losses. Use battery cable to connect the batteries directly to the inverter.
Now what I did on the AC 110 volt side was to run a 30 amp cord from the inverter to my shore power. This way when the inverter is on, all my outlets are hot. The only down side to this is that you will need to remember to turn your converter (12 charger) off, otherwise it is trying to charge its self, which just wastes a bunch juice and will run the batteries dead pretty quick. You probably also want to force you fridge to run on gas rather than auto, as the 110 volt heater heater pulls some juice as well. Other than that, that is really about all you need to worry about.
You have done a lot of maintenance so I would look for something that could have loosened a plug, or frayed a wire, that shuts off power to the ignition. You don't say if the dash goes blank which would indicate a loss of power to the main control panel or if just the engine quits which could be a loss of power to just the ignition/ECM circuits.
Go back over any work that was done around the engine compartment and 12 volt circuits that keep the engine running.This would be my first bet as well. Yes, you can look at the OBD1 port, but most likely you are loosing power somewhere.
If you really want an OBD1 cable, you can build a circuit for about 15 bucks in parts, however finding a laptop that still has a serial port is rare. Find a USB to serial adaptor that is tolerant of the odd baud rate is hit or miss. At this point in the game, you are probably just best off to buy one here:
Once you have the cable, the best program for reading the data is:
This program is just a generic skeleton that requires a plug in that will interpret the data, which you can download here:
Download the datastream definition for $OE. The program is mainly designed for tuners so it has a bunch of features for burning chips, and other things you are not likely to use. However it is the most comprehensive software out there. The learning curve is pretty steep at the beginning, but once you understand the concept, it all makes sense. Eventually you can create your own dashboard layout, so parameters are easy to see. This is what I run and have burnt several chips for my ECM.
One other possibility is a bad ignition coil, especially if heat aggravates the problem. Bad coils will usually start right back up again, but die quickly. Once the engine cools, then they recover and work fine till things heat up again. They do not give any warning, and normally do not throw a code. If you suspect the coil, when it dies, you can unbolt the coil from the engine and isolate it from ground. If the engine runs, but then dies as soon as you touch ground, then you know the coil is shorted.
I should also add that it is highly unlikely the ECM is bad. By 1993, the ECMs were pretty stable in GM vehicles.
You do not have a crank position sensor in that vehicle. That is only used for sequential FI. Since you have a TBI, the ECM does not care what position the crank is in. It just monitors the Dizzy to know when to fire.