There are a number of ways to skin a cat. I don't have a driver's door, so it came back through the living area and out the side door. I took all the furniture out of the living area. Laid down tarps, and then on top of the tarps I laid down plywood to support the engine hoist rollers. When I brought it through the side door, I put plywood on either side of the door jams, so I a swung the engine around trying to get it out, it could bang against the plywood and not damage anything. Picture series is here, if anyone wants to see it.
While some have pulled the heads off to get the engine out, I was able to remove it complete.
Having seen my dad's W22, I think I'd be inclined to drop it out the bottom. As I recall, there is a lot of space between the frame rails. I think that would be the least labor intensive.
My thoughts are that a person/family should take care of their financial security/retirement first. If there are any extra funds they can consider 'toys'. The level of the toy will depend on your extra funds.
If you don't have $20,000 set aside for emergency repairs for the RV then I wouldn't buy another coach. Nothing is more frustrating than living beyond your means and that could be many different levels.
MM.Except that toys are disposable. Since it is not something one depends on for survival, one can afford to loose it as long as you are not over extended to buy it in the first place. When I first got my coach, I could not have afforded a new engine, had it blown. The out was that I would just be out the initial investment and know it was fun while it lasted. but that is because it was an extra. Once can afford to loose an extra. Now since then, finances improved, and I did do a new engine.
I've used Rid-X RV, but what I found is that it works best to pour it in after emptying the tank and then let the tank sit for a month. Then the next time you go camping, it will be just fine and probably last 2 or 3 dumps, usually enough to get through the vacation. Then treat it again, just before parking it.
Were you by chance in the east Monday around Hagerstown MD on I-81. Reason I ask, was a RV like yours going north with the same paint job & colors, nice looking rig all shined up & I thought it might have been you.
NeilSad to say that would not look like my rig, as mine is an embarrassing mess. It has sat under an Oak tree that has graced it with excessive crud. I'm hoping I can give it a quick bath before I get on the road.
... I had an 8.1 just over 4 years ago, I got rid of a 2004 Tiffin 37DB with less than 25k on it because there was just something about the sound of that 8.1 and it's chronic tappet rattle I just did not like...
Since the 8.1L GM engine has hydraulic ROLLER lifters I doubt if you heard any tappet noise at all. What you MAY have had was a more common exhaust manifold gasket leak.
I know several 8.1L engines that are well over 100K miles, mine included in my coach.I would bet you heard the fuel injectors. They are very noisy. I had to listen to my dad's for some time to determine the noise was the injectors. Yes it sounds a lot like lifters, but its the injectors. The way to verify is to listen when you first hit the key, before you crank the engine. You will hear the same noise.
....I have seen Gas Cars (Not as many gears means higher RPMs and more engine wear) hit 200 to 300 thousand miles and more. With proper care.
A lot has to do with HOW you drive.. Light turns green, you mash the pedal to the metal, Jet out of there, come up to the next light and stand on the brake,,, Shortens everything life....Sorry couldn't resist this posting from the other thread. Ya, it can happen to anyone and we don't believe it was your fault. Most likely some component was not made right and let go. Just bum luck from the imperfect world we live in.
I would concur with others who have suggested a crate motor. If for no other reason, for piece of mind. The whole reason for traveling is for piece of mind. Having any left over potential of failure always nagging in the back of your mind will just gnaw at you. Spend the money now, for piece of mind the rest of the miles you drive.
I will tell you one more thing. If you are worried about break downs in your coach, you are not driving it often enough. It is a fear of the unknown. If you drove your coach once a week, you would have no fear.
I say this because I'm about to embark on a vacation and my coach has sat idle for longer than it has ever sat in the 12 years of ownership - 4 months. I'm more paranoid as a result, because of the unknown. I took it out last night, drove it to get fuel and shake it out a bit. Everything was good, although my rear axles seemed to be warm. I'm a little less paranoid after driving it. I still have to check out the rear axles, it may be just rust on the rear brake rotors. I'll jack them up and make sure everything turns free before we go. Other than give it a serious bath, I'm good to go.
How about painting it with Plastic-Dip. Then if you don't like it, you can peel it off and go with something else. Its about the latest fad. Pick a color that is a darker shade of the darkest color in the swoops on the side of the coach. That way it matches and ties in with what you have. Solid black will be too much black in one area. You want it to resemble OEM, but yet a little more modern.
BTY: If you could post a larger picture, that may help with ideas. Your sig pic is too small to tell what the existing colors are.
I have a suggestion. Do not buy a toad right now. Rent a car for the rest of your vacation and then tow your toad home. Do not put yourself in a situation where you are forced to make a decision on the road with little time to shop. You can probably find better deals in your home town, rather than being forced into something that may not be the best choice. Rent a car and enjoy the rest of your vacation.
I would contend that the longevity of a gas engine mostly has to do with if you run it regularly and maintain it. Biggest problem RV engines have is that they sit for several months in the off season, which allows moister to accumulate, which introduces rust.
A comment a few posts above speaks of mileage comparison. It may have been hyperbole, but there is not that much difference in BTU content between gas and diesel. Its only around 13%. Detonation is a little more efficient, but not enough to double the mileage. I'm pretty sure my engine would do just fine in the place where most diesels are used. Gear ratio would need to be changed to match red line, but it would do the job just fine.
Of course in terms of a MH climbing a mountain, if you run out of traction, you have other issues to worry about other than can you maintain 60mph.That's a problem I have in the rain. I can't floor it at freeway speeds without spinning the tires in the wet.
How fast you accelerate to that max velocity up hill is a function of torque and weight.I'm not sure I agree with this statement, because it makes an assumption about RPM. All the torque in a world is nothing without RPM. Back in the day, I could leg press over 1000 lbs, but give me a bicycle pedals and hook me up to your drive shaft, and I'm not going to accelerate your 30K lbs motorhome. Leg pressing 1000 lbs was very slow, so I would be limited by RPM. Since the RPM is limited, there would be no RPM room for torque multiplication to increase the torque to the drive wheels.
Basically it comes down to the fact that one can not quantify any performance without both torque and RPM. Torque alone does not quantify the actual output. That is why the quantification of HP exists as it quantifies total output.
Mr. Mark, I am surprised you have not seen anyone talk about torque vs HP. We talk about it all the time. The problem with a torque spec is that it is incomplete, as it does not account for the torque multiplication of the drivetrain. If the engine is limited to low RPM, the drivetrain can not multiply the torque to the wheels because the gear ratio is too low. Basically, the diesel has little headroom to downshift. At freeway speeds, you can probably only go down one gear and gain a small amount of pull. I can drop 2 gears and smoke by most anything, including a lot of cars.
Torque gives the perception of power because all of the power the engine has is available without downshifting. When you do downshift, you don't gain much. For a high HP/lower torque gas engine, all of its available power is achieved by RPM, so when the engine spins faster, the gearing multiplies the torque to the drive wheels. Its simple math, but to prove it out, one needs to go through all the gear ratios and calculate wheel torque.
In the practical sense, very simply, the HP spec tells you how hard it will pull when the throttle is wide open. The torque spec gives you some indication as to how often you will downshift. People generally like a lot of torque, because they don't like the idea of downshifting. Ultimately while that is important, it doesn't tell you anything about how much it can pull up a hill.
BTY:There was an earlier comparison of a Duramax 300 hp/600ft-lbs torque. It was compared to a 454, which had 230 HP and 390ft-lbs of torque. 300HP vs 230HP which one is faster? well dah. Compare that to an 8.1 and the 8.1 will slowly pull away. (340HP /450ft-lbs torque) Still lower torque, but more powerful.
Umm, Hopefully you understand that these are questions you need to ask yourself. Don't bother asking the person selling the unit as you will not likely get an unbiased opinion. Not that all sellers are particularly dishonest, but their opinions may not tell you what you really need to know.
I own a GL1800 and a DP. I guess you could say that. :)
and I own a BMW K1200LT (aka flying couch) along with a few sport bikes....so i guess thats why i don't get the analogy.
I was thinking maybe the comment was made based on truckers & harley riders affinity toward chrome...but obviously i was off base there too....and as we know wing riders can go crazy w/ the chrome too ;)I'm going to assume the analogy did not make sense because you and I were talking about 2 very different front engine diesels. Maybe you have not seen a FRED or looked one over very close. The one I saw was an Allegro. It was really a very low end class A coach. But no matter who puts a shell on it, it is still a lighter weight, leaf spring chassis with a small diesel engine. The only people who bought it were those that somehow thought that because it burnt diesel fuel, that it was somehow magically better than a gas coach. You can read the test reports and read opinions of those who test drove them. No one was particularly impressed. It was not some terrible piece of junk or anything, but it was nothing special. You paid a little extra just to say you owned a diesel, even though there was no particular advantage.
So in this person's opinion, while the Harley is not some terrible bike, I do know that if I was trying to earn my Iron Butt, which bike I would choose.
Maybe I should be a little more clear in the first part of my post. There was a specific class A chassis called a FRED. That was the glorified gas chassis with a diesel engine. Unfortunately the term FRED has become generic to mean anything with a diesel mounted in the front. I believe FRED was actually trade marked, so when using the term FRED, it should only refer to the glorified gas chassis with a diesel engine. The term should not be used for anything else, such as the Kodiak class or the semi-truck conversions. Those are a whole different ball game.
What is the largest bag or highest lift bag out there. All I see is bags that lift 5000 lbs. Is that the max lift?
BusterFor add on after market bags, yes. However that does not mean you are limited to those bags. You can buy virtually anything.
You can start here:
Air bags are probably not stock. They may have been added because the previous owner felt the rear was sagging. The air bags will probably not lift the weight of the coach. Measure the diameter and then calculate the surface area. Multiply the surface area X the air pressure. That will tell you how much lift they will provide. Typical air bags capable of handling the whole weight of the coach would be 10 to 12 inches in diameter.
If you are talking about a FRED class chassis, it is basically a glorified gas chassis, with a diesel stuck in it. Not much of an advantage. Typically will not have air ride, and the engine is up where you have to listen to it. You take a hit on power and less torque at the drive wheels. Its not an idea that makes a lot of sense, unless you plan to put a million miles on it and can't afford a good sized pusher.
Dare I say its a lot like comparing a Harley to a Goldwing.
It may very well be just a vent line. Stupid alcohol in the fuel eats fuel lines. My parents 2004 Allegro (W22) also developed a leak which turned out to be a deteriorated vent line.
BTY: JB Weld is good for a lot of things, but fuel tanks are not one of them. I've tried more than once on a pin hole leak on a weld on my aluminum tank. Even the JB Weld fuel repair kit with the fiberglass reinforcement does not work. The alcohol in the fuel is just too strong of a solvent. Of all the things I tried, Seal All was about the best. It lasted for several months before it began to leak again. After that, I used Seal All again, but then covered it with Great Stuff. That actually lasted a whole year.