It may not be running long enough to even set a code. May be safe to assume, as the OP has not commented on seeing a check engine light. The early ECMs were not all that smart in concluding what is wrong. They were barely fast enough to make the engine run. The next generation was tons better.
Hooking up a laptop can be done by purchasing an adapter cable and some try-before-you-buy software. You can verify sensors and commands. It would at least tell you what it is not, but you will still have to figure out what is broken. I would still use the techniques already given, as a stuck injector or a bad coil will not show up on the ECM. The ECMs are not that smart. You may see the injector pulsewidth slam wide open, but that could happen anyway as the ECM is just trying its best to keep the engine running. Don't let the ECM add confusion. Its still an engine with all the same mechanical parts of the old days. If it's not the fuel, its the spark, if it's not the spark, its the fuel.
There is another question you need to ask and that is if you require new or not. Most folk think that want new, but don't realize how little there is to gain by purchasing new. Assuming a price of 130,000 give or take 20, try comparing a brand new gas Fleetwood product with a early 2000s Foretravel. Both would be similar priced, but the FT will have it all over the new Fleetwood. Lower quality is with you forever. You also can factor in, that a high end coach has probably been fairly well cared for.
As far as brand quality, your Chevys and Fords of the industry are Newmar, Allegro, Holiday Rambler, and basically in that order, all though the differences between the quality of each runs more with the line within the brand, rather than the brand its self. Below that, you are talking about Fleetwood and Thor products. Within those brands there is overlap in quality depending on the individual product line.
HOWEVER, the lender is not interested in covenants. They are only interested in title chain and claims to the title.I would disagree on this. My lender was very interested - interested in knowing I was aware of them. Since the lender retains the title, the lender is ultimately responsible for what happens on the property. They are 100% liable for any fines levied. The only reason you end up being liable is because the lender pays the fine and then goes after you. They do not want any hassle related to the property, as ultimately it costs them money and time going after you.
I would not purchase property if it came with a mandatory HOA.But there is the precise crux of the problem. In the area where I live, you can not purchase a home without an HOA within 50 miles in any direction. It does not exist. To live outside of that area puts an unreasonable burden on the family, its where there is employment. For us, it was very difficult to find affordable housing that was not a major project house. In my case, I am very fortunate to have stumbled on a neighborhood of like minded individuals. Its probably the only one in the county. Our HOA only exists for community sake and has no desire to put restrictive covenants in place. The only legal action it has done was to protect us from zoning laws. There are several RV owners, motorcycle owners, and on any given Saturday, it is not uncommon to hear the whine of a blower over the rumble of a 60s muscle car slowly making its way down the road. (Yes there are several of those) But back to my point, and that is ones right to home ownership within the limitations of their income becomes trampled on by extreme HOA restrictions. My neighborhood is the only one for miles.
The whole motivation for HOAs and covenants seems to be for property values. I kind of have to chuckle at those so worried about property values. Frankly, I would love to see my property value nose dive. I'm not trying to sell my house, I just want to live there. Lower value means less taxes. All good in my book.
OK, wait one huge second. I think we have a different problem. If there is fuel on the butterflies, and some smoke, I would bet one or both of the injectors is sticking partially open. This is even more likely with the fact that this is an RV in that RVs often sit unused for extended periods of time. When you first turn the ignition on, the injectors pulse a little gas into the throttle body. There should be a mist that stops soon after turning on the key. If the injector drips after that, it is stuck. Try whacking the injector with the handle of your screw driver. You may even need to whack it, when the key is first turned on, to break it loose under power.
If you do not see a drip, and the fuel does mist when the key is first turned on, then I would go for electrical. Ignition coils can short out at the most opportune time. If the coil is partially shorted, you can probably get it to run temporarily by unbolting the coil from the engine and laying it on a piece of cardboard so it is electrically insulated from ground. I had this sort of thing bite me after an engine change in one of my Jeeps. I was sure I had not wired something correctly, but it turned out to be a partially shorted ignition coil. It would run for a short period and then die. I didn't find it, until I put an oscilloscope on the input of the coil. When coils short out, the normally short to the core, which is bolted to the engine. By unbolting it, you insulate the core, and it sort of works, or at least works well enough to conclude what is wrong.
Many people use a lawyer to purchase a house as well as sell a house. The realtor is just a sales person and has little interest in protecting you. They are there to make the sale. When you signed all those papers, the lawyer should have been explaining to you what each paper was and what was contained in each document. If no one was doing that, then you should not have been signing them. When I purchased my first home, the seller's lawyer freaked out, because I did not have a lawyer. Since the realtor was a personal friend, one of the pieces of advice he gave was to contact the loan officer and get a copy of the title ahead of time. This meant I saw a copy of every paper that I was going to sign before the closing and had time to review each piece at my own pace.
If there was any covenant that you needed to abide by, your bank would have had you sign an agreement to abide by that covenant. The bank is the most interested party at a closing, so in many ways, they are your most trusted party. Ultimately, if there is any enforcement, that enforcement goes through the bank, as their name is on the title.
I recently found a facebook page of our neighborhood where i read a lot of nasty comments from about 4 select neighbors of which I've never met, calling us trailer trash and scum, putting their childrens safety at risk ect.
I was shocked to say the least, not One of these folks actually spoke to us about their concerns, just blasted my character over the internet.Hmm, with the threat of lawsuit defamation of character, you may get them to back off completely. Without an HOA, they may not have any legal standing anyway. But since they have publicly made statements about your character, this would be very easy to file a suit. It is pretty easy to identify who posted. Beat them to the punch and they may back off completely, especially when they find out their covenants may not be worth the paper they are written on.
Biggest question when choosing to to invest money into the rig is if you have any delamination, which Fleetwood was notorious for back in the 80s. If there are any places where the wall is sagging away from flat, the don't spend a dime more. Run it into the ground till it quits.
As far as heat, with a proper muffler - meaning straight through, you should have considerably less heat than with manifolds. The engine does not work as hard to pump all that air out the exhaust, which translates into considerably less heat.
While I understand the motivation for cheap, the one issue that will be hurt with cheap headers is noise. Cheap means thin wall pipe, which then radiates more noise than manifolds or thicker headers. Even Banks are which are thicker than cheapo, but still thin, radiate more noise than manifolds. Thorleys are thicker pipe, so they have less noise, and by experience, make less noise than standard manifolds at cruise. H or X pipe will also reduce noise and of course help low end performance). Generally speaking, a Tri-Y has a broader power band, so it is more suitable for RV use than 4 into 1.
I can't remember which one I copied for building a base plate for my WJ, but I did put a cross brace on. Including building the base plate (welding) and installing, was about 3.5 hours. The front bumper cover does come off. It is not difficult to do.
Ran into a new one today. Went to fill with propane at Flying J and the guy asked me when the last time my tank was inspected. He stated unless it was recently inspected, that I would not be able to get it filled. He stated it was a new thing for IL. While I was aware of this requirement for portable tanks, I have never heard of this for permanently attached tanks. Has anyone else heard of this? The guy was stating that about 6 months ago, Flying J was cracking down on LP regulations. My instincts think the guy was confused, especially stating it was unique to IL.
What can happen is over time carbon deposits build up in the combustion chambers and you may start to hear a bit of "rattle" (Pre-ignition knock) which goes away if you upgrade the fuel to mid or premimum.
HOWEVER, this means you need service, MAJOR service.Nah, just get the engine good a hot and mist water down the intake. When the water hits the cylinder head, it will boil the carbon off. Worked great on my first Goldwing.
One of the problems we have is the labeling of premuim vs regular. We associate the word "premium" with higher or more pure. In fact the opposite tends to be true. The octane rating is exclusively a measure of the ignition temperature. The lower octane means that it ignites easier. That is why an engine that is designed to run on regular will get worse mileage running on premium. Now it is true that from a design standpoint, raising the compression will squeak out more power, but when the compression is raised, the fuel may self ignite. High compression really is a trade off, but a good one, as the gains of the higher compression do outweigh the losses from being required to run gas that is harder to burn. The trick with more recent designs is fats burn heads, which compacts the fuel in one small area, as opposed to being spread out over the whole piston. This helps prevent self ignition and allows higher compression. For instance, the 8.1 liter BBC has higher compression than the old 454 could get away with, because of the head design.
First off, the most important statement that has yet to be made is that not all diesels are created equal. While a DP usually means higher end, that is not a universal statement, and there is some overlap where a higher end gas motorhome may be built considerably better than a low end diesel.
Generally speaking, I would lean strongly toward going older and higher quality, regardless of the fuel type. What ever your choice in quality is, you are married to it, with divorce being very expensive. 10 year old quality is still quality. Brand new junk is always junk, even when its new and looks fancy.
Generally speaking, engine surge at idle usually means it is running lean. Quick way to confirm it is running out of fuel would be to keep a can of starting fluid handy (or WD40, which works just as well). When it starts to die, squirt some down the carb. If it keeps running on starting fluid, then you are running out of fuel - for whatever reason. Your fuel pump may be dieing. If it is, I would scrap the mechanical pump and install an electric pump. The reason is that since most RVs sit for extended lengths of time, its nice to be able to kick the pump on and let it prime, when it has been sitting for a few months. Also, depending on where you mount the pump, it will prevent vapor lock. One other thing, since the mechanical pump has a return line, replace the mechanical pump with an inline fuel filter that has a return line as part of the filter. This will help regulate the fuel pressure, as those electric pumps tend to run a tiny bit high.
It helped that there was a CHP weaving back and forth across the lanes to slow down the traffic.Yikes, that sounds safe...
To the OP, is this a complaint when you are under breaking, or are you seeing heat all the time?
Since you will also need to purchase a breaking system, get ReadyBrute integrated towbar and braking system. Lots of satisfied user on RVnet. ReadyBrake is a very simple design that just works. It is fully proportional and is the only system that operates "closed loop", meaning the braking is always based on need, rather than being preset.
Refrigerators are only a few hundred bucks, since he is a DIYer. Just replace cooling unit. During the first 7 years of owning this Revcon, I spent well under the average for upkeep and repairs, compared to much newer coaches. The reality is, that the rate at which stuff breaks starts to fade in between the 5th years and 10 years in age. It then continues at that rate for the rest of its life. The failures are not as catastrophic, but still seem to cost just as much to repair. Unless you have a major drive train component failure, all other repairs are about equal in expense. In a gas coach it is not uncommon to start replacing suspension components at the 10 year mark. A newer coach will have 22.5 tires, which is great for the load carrying, but super expensive on the pocket book. A lighter coach will not require the larger tires, which saves several thousand dollars.
As long as the engine compartment has reasonable ventilation, I do not believe that headers will result in any heat problems. The OEM manifolds are known to crack and leak, but normally headers is the solution, not the problem. Headers will run tons cooler than manifolds ever did, as long as you have free flowing exhaust to let the heat out. My old 454 ran so much cooler once headers were installed, and the Magnaflows.
The biggest problem with the P30 chassis is that they are often overloaded, the length is stretched. If the coach is 30 feet or less, you would not have any inherent handling issues. Longer lengths can be improved, but have their limitations. HMC is typically a big tall coach. You will be limited in what you can do to improve it.
If you've not made the purchase, and like the idea of a front wheel drive coach, you could look for a late 80s Revcon. I have no doubt DW would like the interior, and if as long as the suspension is in properly maintained condition, you can't beat the handling. When I drive out west, it is not uncommon to set the cruise at 80 and just roll.