Search Google for Tandem wheelchair. There are a few different ideas out there. That could solve the golfcart issue.
Another creative idea would be to see if someone could convert a conventional wheel chair into a side car for your electric wheel chair. If they did it right, they could maintain the collapsible part of it, so it would go through doorways and be used conventionally indoors.
The other issue would be that if you ever ran into a campground that would not accommodate a golfcart, they may need to be reminded of the ADA. Its not just a convenience. Some golf carts can be licensed as low speed electric cars, which means it would have the same rights as any other car.
I suppose the big plus is you get to ask if this was driven regularly or did it sit unused for extended periods of time. If it sat unused, you can count on tons of little going wrong for about the first year of use. If you are a DIYer, then it may be OK. What kind of climate was it stored in? In the north, there is salt. Even if it sits during the winter, the drastic temperature changes causes condensation, which results in corrosion. This introduces a strong likelihood of electrical issues. Sitting is not good for the motor, and especially bad for the trans. The oil does not get splashed around, and the seals tend to dry out. Oil does evaporate, so if there is contaminants from normal wear in the oil, when the oil evaporates, the residue tends to bond and gunk up the surfaces.
Under these kinds of circumstances, if a vehicle sits for a long period, usually when it first is brought back to life, everything works. Its only a few months later that things begin to show up. I'm not saying this is the wrong thing to do, but just you need to anticipate the potential for what may go wrong.
Just so you know, Dealers and the manufacturer are notoriously wrong. RVs get re-configured so many times, they really don't know what it weighs. Also, who knows what you typically haul in it when you are fully loaded.
Some of the reason you are getting the answers you are getting is because it is so well known that under inflation is such a huge cause of blowouts. It is a big deal, and those who have been around for a lot of years will concur with reports read on here. Personally if I were riding with you and had to choose between slightly under inflated tires, or towing twice your rate limit, I would choose towing twice your weight limit. Under inflation is that serious.
Yes, the F53 is known to ride stiff, although that has improved in more recent years. It would be interesting to know what your GVWR is, compared to your actual weight. As you mention your coach is pretty light, that may be part of the problem. There are better ways to address the problem, although not cheap. MorRyde is one option. Sulastic spring shackles is another option. Some have been able to just change shocks. A little searching here should give you what others have done to the late model F53.
I assume you are thinking of Revcon (which bought out Apollo:
There were 5 built. One was lost to a flood about 5 years ago down in TX. The newer version looked like this:
I think only one was built. Here is another option:
or watch the video of it driving:
Be selective where you park
Chicago police are no longer responding in person to 911 calls reporting vehicle theft, garage burglary or simple assault in a change aimed at freeing up officers to deal with more serious crimes.
Chicago police no longer responding to all 911 calls not a real surprise. The likelihood of it making a difference if they catch the criminal does not change if an officer shows up. The fact is most leads in non-violent crime come from the victim, rather than real detective work. There is no real magic that a detective can really do. About all they hope for is that evidence is stumbled on from some other crime.
If you are victim of a crime, you are the person with the most resources to solve it. Either by surveillance, or research. If you ever have anything stolen and hope to recover it, your best bet is to watch Ebay and Craigslist weekly. Pawn shops are required to report goods valued more than a few hundred bucks, but the pawn shops have ways of reporting that gives the appearance of just being sloppy, which makes it difficult for the police to discover stolen merchandise.
Sounds like it's time for the police to do some finger printing! Finger printing only works in movies. Most of the time real finger prints are so smudged, they are unusable. The reality is, they will fake fingerprints to get a confession, but that is about it.
??? Why would it have to be custom made? There are a few standard sizes that all the manufacturers use. Even in my 30 year old coach, the couch was a standard off the shelf size. I purchased mine surplus. If you can find an excuse to drive through Elkart, there are several surplus houses within a short distance of each other. Those are always hit and miss, but usually have a pretty wide selection.
Is it just slow in shifting? Meaning when you step on it, does TC unlock, engine increase RPM and then downshift?
The 4L85e has a continuously variable lock up TC. The pressure valve is pulse width modulated, so it allows the TC to slip, depending on the need for power. At normal cruise, the clutch pressure varies from about 50% to about 70% depending on the load. As you lean into the gas, it will allow clutch slip to raise the engine RPM, so you gain some power. GM had 2 goals in mind when they designed it. The first was to completely eliminate any feel of the TC locking up. The second was to be able to allow slip instead of downshifting. The TC clutch is patented, as it is porous so allow the fluid to keep it cool so it doesn't burn up, as it slips. (replacement TC must be bought from GM, otherwise they will burn up)
So now you know how it is supposed to work, you will understand it is difficult for us to judge from our armchairs as to what is bad, compared to how it is designed. I don't know the ECM well enough on that year to know at what point does one determine it is broke. I do know the trans control is really sophisticated, in that it monitors engine RPM, input shaft speed, and output shaft speed. Pump pressure is variable throughout the whole trans, as they monitor slip in every gear to determine wear. They then compensate for wear with pump pressure. So when the slip it too great, it increases pump pressure. This info is stored in the ECM, and is continually updated. My thinking is that with the level of monitoring that the ECM is doing, it should throw a code if something is wrong - if there is too much slip anywhere in the trans. Some codes are silent codes, meaning they don't turn on the check engine light, but the dealer would see it, if things are getting out of hand. Were the codes checked by a dealer or were they checked by John Doe's Auto Parts?
If you can get to the wiring check for voltage at the input and, if there is another on/off switch at the heater check to be sure it is working ie. passing on the voltage when `on'.
If the voltage is good you could disconnect the wiring to the element and check the resistance of the element. If there is resistance the element should be good. If the resistance is `infinite' you know it is bad and should be replaced. I don't remember what the resistance reading should be. If you have a spare you could compare the readings.
My biggest problem was just getting to the wiring. I had a burned up wire and had to take the Heater out of the RV to fix it.X2. I have seen the secondary switch on the outside of the couch overheat and fail in my parents coach. Switch had been making poor connection for some time, so the plastic was very brittle.
As I recall, the flame should be about 7 or 8 inches long, by about 3+ inches wide at the widest point. It shoots into a round tube with a baffle, so that the air flows in the bottom and out the top, all inside this tube. It makes me wonder if the electronics have a time limit, so if the thermostat does not turn it off within a certain period, then it shuts off on its own. I use my coach in the dead of winter, and even when its single digits outside, it has not problem heating the water in a reasonable amount of time. Anytime it goes into a protection mode, there should be a warning light that turns on. This would be the same light that first turns on when you hit the switch, but turns off, once the flame lights.
Your original post had a question about overheating. Workhorse ran thousands of miles worth of tests in the desert. The engines from those tests were sold on Ebay a few years later, as good running engines. I did end up talking to them about the engine at the time. There were no problems with overheating.
What seems strange is that the water should be really hot within 45 minutes of running. You can buy a new thermostat, but it seems strange that in 45 minutes, the water is not really hot. I realize an IR gun is about 10 bucks more than the thermostat, but a IR gun is very handy to have anyway. It would be nice to know what the temp is right at the thermostat. You could touch the tank there and see if it is hot, as you said your water is only luke warm at best. If I understand correctly, it did not take much water flow before it turned cold, which doesn't seem right either.
While GMC built the drivetrain and SHELL, Coachmen Industries (Coachmen RV company) actually built and installed all the interiors in the mid 70's in Elkhart, Indiana. I would be more concerned about the Air ride system and cost and availability than any other drivetrain parts. DougAlso some units were upfitted by Avion.
As far as air ride, for one that is handy, there are several options available. There generic parts that will work, or there are some well thought out solutions. That is why if you own one, you belong to an affinity group, with a wide variety of ideas, and the resources to back them up.
To the OP, for the things you mention, you could look at Revcon. There is a version as short as 28ft with a permanent bed in the back. (sometimes called 27 ft Duke) In the 80s the drivetrain is custom, but built mostly from common parts. The interiors were very high end Wilsonart laminate, so they hold up well. All very light weight and super strong. And just think what you could do to the motor...
You might look into the POR-15 Fuel Tank Repair Kit
Don't waste your time and money. I used that product, followed their complete instructions, yet the stuff flaked off the inside of the tank the first time I used it. Went through several fuel filters on one trip, just getting the fuel in the tank used up. So a tank that could have been repaired was ruined.
As a result, I searched a very long time for many different options. I finally found a pair of 40 gallon tanks that I was able to make work. I ended up buying them from:http://greatlakesskipper.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=desc&limit=200&order=relevance&q=fuel+tanks&x=0&y=0. Because they were within driving distance, I drove up to Wisconsin on a Saturday morning and picked them up. Saved a bit on shipping. They ended up waiting for me to get there. Nice people, so if they happen to have a tank that will work, they are good people to buy from.
Since the tanks are plastic, I welded up a frame to carry the weight. No more leaks. The only thing you have to watch for is making sure you choose the correct pickup outlet. The pickup has a check valve, and does not work very well for a return line :).
A few years back there were news reports of government agency night time flyovers with IR cameras. What they were looking for was to create a report that the fire department could use, so when they entered a house during a fire, they would know where the occupied bedrooms were. Did it actually happen, I have no doubt in some areas it did. Is it happening now on a regular basis? With most city governments strapped for cash, this seems very unlikely. Those kinds of things happen sporadically, we know of periodic reports of government flyovers resulting in zoning violations on private property.
While it is not happening currently, I have no doubt it will happen much more often in the near future with drone surveillance. No doubt with local city governments jonesing for power, they will be all over that intel.
Last thing I would do is spray the metal parts with ATF, my way of doing a poor mans rustproofing job. I never felt like the garage would take as much time as I did. I wanted to feel confident when I was outside of my home area that everything was in top shape prior to leaving.I thought that was why you not supposed to repair broken seals. I made the mistake of installing a new trans and now my front end is starting to rust. :(
Take some pictures even if you don't buy it, just for fun.
Take a good look at the door fitment and the wall where it meets the door frame. Make sure it is not spreading. I looked at a GMC to buy many years ago, before I bought the Revcon. The GMC had grown fat in the middle, which meant the door did not fit, and the interior wall had pulled away from the door frame. I have since learned that problem is not completely uncommon. There are ways to deal with it, but something like that should be significant leverage against the price. Inspect the walls around the windows for leaks/rot. Inspect for frame rust. On that age of unit, the potential for large amounts of frame rust is pretty high. All those things differentiate it from a premium restored vehicle.
The problem with pricing a GMC is 2 fold. There are a ton of units out there with very high price tags on them. This has driven the market artificially high, even for ones that are not restored. The second problem which was eluded to earlier is that any motorhome, regardless of the collector factor will never be worth what someone has invested in it. This puts dollar values all over the place and makes it very hard to find a stable consistent why to come up with real numbers. Of course there is also the issue of what something is listed for, compared to what people will actually pay. This range is rather wide, especially for an older unit that has been redone.
As far as the over all big picture, as a general rule, GMCs were much better at traveling than they were at camping. You have a 26 foot unit, that is laid out light on the amenities, and heavy on the number of beds - which was a common philosophy in the 70s. To be able to sleep 6 in a 26 foot coach, you loose space in other areas. One of the biggest is the bathroom. Most GMCs have a wet bath, which means you shower over the top of the toilet. Unless you are looking at a rear bath model, or one that has been modified, you don't have a separate shower. (yes there was the Royal, but they are rare).
As far as the engine and drivetrain, the 455 was a very durable engine as long as you didn't run high RPMs too often. I knew of a Revcon owner (uses the same drivetrain) who had almost 300,000 on the original engine and drivetrain. It would still be running today, except for a propane leak that ended the coach's life. The Revcons are lighter, so they don't put the strain on the drivetrain, but even so, the 455 was very durable, as long as you didn't wind it out. One heavy wear point with a GMC is the front wheel bearings. This is a high maintenance item. Not the end of the world, but something you just build into your maintenance budget and schedule. Other than the front wheel bearings, I do not believe the rest of the drivetrain is prone to wear any faster than any other motorhome, however when it does wear, the cost to repair is about 1.5 X the cost of a rear wheel drive coach. If you paying a premium for the coach, you need to know the condition of the front end, as that should significantly affect the price.
My personal opinion is that you are paying a lot for the wow factor, and not necessarily for the actual value of the coach as a functional camper. Sure wow is cool, or otherwise people would not own or restore antique cars. As a coach, it is a little better built than many of the coaches in that era, but its not some magical super high end unit. Unless a very significant purpose is collector driven, as a camper, it has its limitations.