The Flowmaster muffler is complete garbage! You will not see much if any improvement installing a Chokemaster muffler. Beyond that, their tech support are complete idiots and do not have any remote clue of anything about engines.
When I first bought my motorhome, it had Flowmaster 50 series. I installed Thorley headers and saw very little performance gain. I then had the exhaust completely redone with Flowmaster 40 series installed. There was a significant improvement in performance, however the noise level was unbearable. I saw parents hiding their kids, when I pulled into the campgrounds. I had the 40 series pulled, and had 70 series installed. The noise level was much more tolerable, but I lost over 2 mpg and 2.6 seconds off my zero to sixty times ~10%) After much wasted experimentation based on Flowmaster's tech support, I gave up and installed Magnaflows. My power came back, and my mileage returned. Not only that, but the noise level inside the coach was quieter than with the 70 series Flowmasters. If you are going to install an exhaust system, you need to have straight through muffler, such Magnaflow or Dynomax. I would also suggest installing a H pipe or X pipe, which can be purchased from Summit Racing. X-pipe is better if you have the space, but it need to be within about 2 feet of the collector.
While Gibson will give you a decent improvement, I personally am partial to Tri-Y design, as it will have a much broader power band.
BTW: Since I was kicking those 70 series Chokemasters around my garage for so many years, I installed on on my 6 cylinder Jeep because it needed a new muffler. I assumed such an over sized muffler wouldn't do much damage, but as a matter of fact, there still felt some power loss in the top end. It was an old Jeep that didn't matter, but I was surprised that it had a negative impact on such a small motor.
There is NOTHING wrong with a carbureted engine. From 1991 to 1995 GM was throttle body. While this helped cold starts and altitude, it does NOTHING for performance and is less efficient than a carburetor, because it does not atomize the fuel as well. Intake manifold designs were still limited by the wet intake, so no advantage there. Ford fuel injection of the same time period was absolute junk. It was not even a closed loop system. Back when my engine had a carb, in cold weather my motorhome got better mileage than my brother's 1995 TBI pickup truck. There is no real advantage to fuel injection until they went to the high pressure port injection.
It was also in the 1996/97 years that GM came out with the fast burn heads. The combination of better head design, and port injection brought about significant improvements in HP and mileage.
As far as the trans is concerned, the 4L85e is one very tough trans. It is the same design as the old TH400 and shares many internal parts. The only limitation is that it uses a variable slip torque converter. Great design, but requires changing the fluid more often. 15K miles, max. I had a dealer worn me about that with a car I had of the same design. While there were many out there replacing transmissions in the low 100k mile range, I had 180K on mine when I sold it and never had a problem. I drive my vehicles hard, and even towed with it. You just have to change the fluid more often.
Personally, the 2 biggest issues you face with age are rust and long term stress to the shell which potentially causes leaks. Everything else can be fixed. Personally, if I were looking at the 90s coaches, I would be looking for a DP and specifically a Foretravel. Very well built from that time period. You will also find the DPs of that era got better fuel mileage than the modern diesels, due to smog requirements.
The pump is most likely the rubber bellows type. Since it is just rubber flexing, it does not hurt it to run dry. OK, maybe you consumed some of its life just because of the hours put on it, but no specific damage for it running continuously.
Oh, if only you had been on RVnet back in ~2000. While historically there had been a lot of issues, Fleetwood bashing was pretty common back then. Fleetwood got much better over the years as all manufacturers did. But Fleetwood did not have a good reputation back then.
I use a hitch haul from Walmart. They sell an adapter for putting bikes on it. The nice thing about the hitch haul is it can be used for other stuff. I've tied stuff under the bikes that I did not want inside the coach.
One other advantage of using a hitch haul is that there is solid metal to mount lighting. Since the Hitch haul is mounted on the toad, the lights on the hitch haul are my toad lights, they are isolated from the toad.
if the RV will not slow down when brakes are applied, I agree. but anytime the RV is braked, depending on how sensitive my Brake Buddy is set, it will also apply the brakes unless somehow inertia is negated.
the degree to which the toad brakes are applied is proportional to how severe the RV braking is. looks like a pig, smells like a pig, oinks like a pig, etc.
bumpyThere are 2 different models of Brake Buddies. The old type is either on or off, basically a braking assist, which I have good reason to believe is what the OP has. The Vantage is proportional based on inertia.
Truth is, by the true definition of 'proportional', almost NONE of the toad braking systems out there truly are proportional. ...
Anyway, getting back to what what Daveinet originally said about Readybrake: Minus the 'proportional' word, I agree 110% with him. Readybrake IMO is sooo much better a solution than any of the 'brake in a box' systems.Ready Brake is proportional and is the only closed loop system. The rate of braking is proportional to the stopping rate of the motorhome. Meaning they are matched. I can fully attest to this, as when I originally set up the counter spring, I towed my 4600 LBS Grand Cherokee with my 3100 LBS older Cherokee. I set the counter spring for a completely neutral impact under any and all braking conditions. Regardless of if I braked hard or soft, the toad braking rate was completely proportional to the braking rate of my light weight Jeep. If a 3100 lbs vehicle can stop a 4600 LBS vehicle with no difference in peddle effort at any braking rate, one can confidently conclude that the toad braking rate is directly proportional to the braking rate of the tow vehicle. The method for achieving proportionality may be different, but it is absolutely proportional.
Or you can just throw the thing away and get a proportional system that is going to work much better for about 450 bucks. That is the cost of the basic Ready Brake.
back to the proportional Kool Aid.
Many RVs have different size tires front and rear, so one would be restricted from rotating.
On the other had, I rotate my tires because I have front wheel drive. My fronts wear much faster than the rears, so when they are about half worn, they get moved to the rear and a new set gets put on the front. The rears on mine take for ever to wear, so they get cycled through. I end up buy two tires every third year. This way I can get reasonable traction in the snow.
To the OP, I would suggest doing a benchmark zero to 60mph test before you install the new muffler. Gas mileage can do funny things, based on weather, driving conditions and even the fuel you are using. Doing a benchmark test on the same fuel tank and hopefully the same day, with the same weather should give you a more direct comparison.
Or you can just drop one of these bad boys in there fro a lot less money.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/izl-dp10002g/overview/. It is a kit with its own sensors, so it will work with anything. I recently installed this unit in my coach. I've not gotten it formally mounted, but it works pretty well. My only complaint is the bright light indicator is too bright. You can put a piece of paper under the glass to make it dimmer.
RE: BTW:The older V10 is well known to have breathing issues. One indicator is if you look on the Banks website, you can see their test results, which are substantial for the older V10. In contrast, the newer V10 does not gain much.
What is considered older? The OP has a 2004 I believe and mine is a 2008.2 valve vs 3 valve. The transition happened happened at the end of 2005. Once you hit the 3 valve engine, they fixed the worst of the breathing problems.
Yes, Magnaflow. straight through perforated pipe is going to be the most like any open pipe as you can get. There are all kinds of tricks manufacturers have tried to pull, with some working to various degrees, but nothing will compare to a straight through muffler. I tried a coupe of different Flowmasters, which had measured performance loss - the 70 series killed my fuel mileage and were still noisy. Lost 10% on my zero to sixty times. My experiments were with no other changes other than mufflers. (although I did some tuning attempts to try to "fix" the Flowmasters based on their ignorant customer assistance recommendations)
BTW:The older V10 is well known to have breathing issues. One indicator is if you look on the Banks website, you can see their test results, which are substantial for the older V10. In contrast, the newer V10 does not gain much.
I drive the motorhome in the snow every year and have been doing so for the last 12 years. The BIG advantage a motorhome has over any other vehicle is the long wheelbase. If the rear of the motorhome slides sideways 1 foot, the change in direction is very small. Back in the 80s, we took my parents motorhome out to test it in the snow. We had a very lightly traveled freeway behind our house. So got up to about 40 mph, and spun the rear wheels and then turned the front wheels. As the vehicle began to slide, we found it was extremely easy to correct. The long wheelbase meant that you had all day to turn the wheel and follow it in the slide. The other thing we found is that the side of the coach makes for a huge sail. As you start to get sideways, the air catches the rear of the coach and restricts how far it will go sideways. Kind of like a parachute on the back of a drag car.
Of course, you do have to realize that you can't stop and that if you need to change direction quickly, it will not happen. Take the corners slow, give yourself lots of space. But when you are traveling straight down the freeway with no other cars, you are very stable. Here we are, traveling at about 60+ though Indiana.
I would suggest wiring up a way to hotwire the fuel pump, and splice in a bypass on the fuel line. Not only is it safer, but much more convenient to use. Install a valve and let the fuel pump pump the fuel out of the tank into your car or lawnmower. No thief is going to be smart enough to figure out you have an extra hose connected to the fuel line. Most auto parts stores sell a dual tank valve. This way, when you turn on the pump, it closes the fuel off to the engine and switches to your extra hose. Simple and easy to use.
Make sure you show up at the court date, assuming the other driver recieved a ticket. I know when I have been at court, listening to other cases, when an accident is involved, the court will normally inquire if the damages have been paid. Most of the time, the people who were the victims never show up in court, so the defendant usually just claims it has been settled. Ultimately, the other driver is responsible for the damages, regardless of what the insurance company does. If it is not paid in a timely fashion, the other driver will loose their license. I would be harassing the other driver. He is the one who owes you the money.
Doesn't a drop hitch derate the capacity?
It does point out that most failures are more related to long term wear, as opposed to immediate catastrophic failure as many would have you believe. I inspect my coach as well as the toad base plate regularly. Maybe one of the reason I inspect often is because the welds are my welds.
Has anyone had a problem finding a fuel stop that you can pull into with a 33ft class A Gas pulling a dingy four down.Thanks in advance. jpWhat do you consider difficulty? If you consider not being able to get into every gas station you see a difficulty, then yes. Otherwise, no. Gas stations normally come in pairs, which means the odds of finding one that you can get in and out without unhooking is pretty high.