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RE: Rear Bunk Support/ Reinforcement!
Great ideas guys. I think I'm going to use a combination of all your suggestions. I will attach a 2x2 support across the back wall at the proper height using hollow wall anchors as suggested and frame up under it all the way to floor. I'll also use the hollow wall anchors to re-attach the bed sitting on top of the support. Should be rock solid.
Thanks, Mike
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Dega500
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08/15/12 10:40am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Rear Bunk Support/ Reinforcement!
You could pull a switch/receptical plate on an outside wall to explore your exterior wall options.
Happy Camping!
John.
Great idea. Hmmm, Actaully, i think all my switch/recepticals are attached to cabinets and interior walls.
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Dega500
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08/14/12 02:53pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Rear Bunk Support/ Reinforcement!
Thanks for the reply John,
Just to clarify, my bunks run across the back of the camper and the hinge of the lower bunk attaches the "side" of the bed to the rear exterior wall. This kind of limits what I can do to avoid going through the rear exterior skin.
The hinge side fastens to the rear exterior wall which only appears to be an inch or so thick between inside paneling (hard plastic) and outside shell. I'm not sure if the hinge and boards are fastened to studs or any kind of reinforcement structure for that matter. I can just tell the screws have begun to pull out again.
My compartment is full length of the bed but I could stand it to be only half that. I'm leaning toward framing up a bulkhead of sorts across the compartment midway of the bed.
I thought about toggles but I'm not sure the wall is thick enough to allow them.
Mike
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Dega500
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08/14/12 02:21pm |
Travel Trailers
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Rear Bunk Support/ Reinforcement!
Hi all,
I have a 04 Flagstaff, Forest River LB25 TT. As I was packing up the rear side storage compartment after a stay at the beach a few weeks ago I noticed that the bottom bunk was angled down slightly from front to back. It is the type bunk with a heavy duty hinge against the wall and can be raised up for access to the storage compartment/ area from inside. I finally got around to looking at it this weekend and upon stripping the mattress off I could see that the screws were beginning to pull out of the wall. I removed the bunk assembly and can now see that the screws had pulled out of the wall before we got it and had been just moved over slightly and replaced.
I want to beef up the installation and have a few ideas but I’m a little unsure of exactly how the back wall is constructed. The back wall only appears to be slightly over an inch thick and I can’t feel or find any indication of where and studs or support structure may be.
The front of the bed (at least three feet of it) rests on a short ledge attached to the back wall of the bathroom and appears very sturdy and sufficient to support the bed in this area but there’s not anything in the rear. The rear wall also angles forward which rules out simply putting a couple of vertical 2-by’s here and there for support.
I was thinking of attaching a 2x4 across the rear wall for extra support then simply setting the existing frame on top of it and screwing it back on in new spots or making some 2x??? gussets or bulkheads to support the bed.
Once again the question is “what kind of existing structure do I have to work with here”?
Any suggestions are appreciated!
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Dega500
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08/14/12 09:44am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: New to TT camping, Introducing myself
Welcome to the forum and congrats on the TT. We recently purchased a used 25' Flagstaff and spent our first week at the beach in it last week. There is a lot of knowledge and hospitality to be find on this forum and in the RV community.
Enjoy!
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Dega500
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08/09/12 08:36am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Tanks didn't want to drain quickly
Thanks for all the suggestions!
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Dega500
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08/09/12 08:25am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Tanks didn't want to drain quickly
The tanks actually appear to drain quickly until the hose fills up and cant hold any more or pass it fast enough. So walking the hose is not uncommon?
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Dega500
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08/07/12 09:12pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Tanks didn't want to drain quickly
There should have been little or no solid waste. Just RV TP! Man, those hoses come alive!
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Dega500
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08/07/12 01:30pm |
Travel Trailers
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Tanks didn't want to drain quickly
Hi all,
We just returned from our first extended trip in our TT. We headed to the beach last Sunday and stayed at Gulf State Park near Gulf Shores, AL. Had a nice time despite a couple of monsoons.
The sites had full hookups which I took advantage of. I kept my dump valves closed until the tanks were nearly full. My valves and connections are near the rear of the TT and the sewer was mid-way of the site so with my TT backed to the rear of the pad my connections were a good bit away from the sewer. I had an extra hose (thanks to the previous owner) and using a red twist adapter I successfully connected two lengths together which easily reached.
When I pulled the valves (black first) the flow would begin quickly and as the hose filled it would begin to twist and crawl as it filled up but didn't seem to want to evacuate the hose into the sewer. I had to carefully lift the hose from the TT connection toward the sewer to help force the liquid into the drain until the hose was empty. The gray water did the same way.
Because of the extra long run of sewer hose I bought a Camco Sidewinder™ RV Sewer Hose Support hoping the gradual slope from the TT most of the way to the sewer would aid in evacuation of the hose. It didn't seem to help at all and the hose would actually droop between each section which may have actually added to the problem.
Could this be attributed to the extra length of hose or just a poorly vented sewer system. I'll admit that having to handle that hose at all to get the water to drain were some tense moments.
I saw all manners of contraptions supporting sewer hoses from sections of 4" PVC (some split some not) to 2x6 sections of lumber to some just laying on the ground.
Any thoughts on this matter are appreciated.
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Dega500
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08/07/12 10:20am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 3250Watt Generator wont start AC
I'll be sure to bring lots of extra earplugs and hand them out to my neighbors.
I am used to tent camping year round so no AC late at night wont be too big of a deal for me if it's too loud.
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Dega500
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07/10/12 09:07am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 3250Watt Generator wont start AC
Thanks everyone,
We'll try it again with your suggestions. We have also located a 6000 watt unit another friend has that we can borrow if we can't get this one to work.
Not sure about the HP Gail. I'll check.
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Dega500
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07/10/12 07:12am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 3250Watt Generator wont start AC
Thanks everyone,
I did try turning the fan on first and it still wouldn't start. I'm not sure how to unplug or turn off converter. I'll have to study up on that.
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Dega500
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07/09/12 08:25pm |
Travel Trailers
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3250Watt Generator wont start AC
Hi all,
My friend and I are heading to the races in a month or so and we were wanting to use his 3250 watt generator (bought at Lowes) to run the ac for a few hours a day.
He brought it over yesterday and when we tried it the breaker on the genny kept kicking. We just accepted the fact that we would need to get us a bigger generator.
But I got to thinking that I had everything in the TT turned off except the fridge which was on auto. Could the fridge have been enough of a draw to keep the ac from starting up. I'm thinking of getting him to bringing it over again to try with fridge completely turned off. It seems there are many who run there AC and a few other appliances on 3000watt or less Hondas.
What do you guys think?
Mike
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Dega500
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07/09/12 03:32pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Do you use cell phones while backing into campsite?
Cell phones work great as long as we both have a signal. I just wished she would remember that if she can't see my mirror, I can't see her signals. It's getting better though.
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Dega500
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05/21/12 02:35pm |
Travel Trailers
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