While the question appears to be one of the legal or licensing problems with length, the real question here should be of overloading the chassis on the coach. Brakes, radiator and suspension limits need to be addressed.
The three most popular Cummins engines are the ISB, the ISC/ISL, and the ISM. You'll need at least the ISC/ISL and the ISM would be better. Unfortunately, the ISM is available on only a few top end coaches. The ISC or ISL with the side radiator on a chassis with full air suspension and air brakes would be a good choice.
As for using a gas powered coach, I wouldn't recommend it.
As for length limitations, I've never heard of anyone in a motorhome getting stopped or checked. You won't need another license if the license you have in your state is sufficient.
My wife hasn't used the inverter to power up her hair dryer, but we have used the microwave. Both use about the same amount of amps. The microwave is only on for a minute or less, generally 15 seconds or so. The micro was wired that way when the coach was built and I never changed it. But, we use the micro very sparingly on inverter power.
Hair dryers can take up to 1,500 watts, or about 12 amps at 120 volts. That is a lot of power. Now, if you have four (or more) house batteries and an inverter that can provide at least 15 amps at 120 volts, you'll have enough for a few minutes of hair drying time. Your wife is probably wanting to use it for several minutes or more, which could really draw down your batteries. But, then you'll have to recharge the batteries anyway, so why not just run the dryer off of the generator?
Good luck. (And, and you indicated, happy wife equals happy life.)
I also have State Farm and have been with them since 1968. They are the largest causality carrier in the country, with 6& of the business. They normally have the best rates but a local or regional carrier could give you a better rate.
USAA has the best rates, but you have to have a military connection to qualify. Also, they act as a general agent for another company on RVs, and don't write policies themselves.
Ignore the advertisements on TV over the best rates. Look up the ratings in Consumer's Reports. You can find a copy at your local library.
Since you are buying from an owner, I'm assuming he is not going to accept a trade. ASs for a value, the low retail figure is probably closer than anything. NADA estimates the figures based on a formula of so much off of MSRP, and not actual sales.
Typical? No. A rough rule of thumb use to be a percentage off of low retail, but the bottom line is whatever the dealer has set aside for overvaluing your travel trailer. Of course, the added amount is just added to the purchase price of your new RV. It is the easiest and simplest way of moving up, but you're going to pay for the privilege.
You are so much further ahead selling your trailer yourself, such as on Craig's List. Clean it up like it had never been used and price it right. Search the internet to see what others are trying to sell their travel trailers for and price your unit accordingly. You'll sell it, but it has to be priced right.
I have a 1993 coach with the HWH levelers and all have their original springs. I can't help but think a slow retracting leveler is due to something else, such as dirty fluid, closed valve or dirty jack. I spray mine with silicone fluid just before retracting. The fluid seems to keep the seals lubricated, although I would assume MD3 fluid (automatic transmission fluid) would do the same, if not better.
I changed the fluid several years ago as a preventive measure. it takes about a gallon if I remember correctly. I also lubricate the zert fittings and spray the moving/pivoting parts with silicone spray. Remember to check the manual release valves on top of the pump to make sure they are closed.
One advantage this year is the price of gasoline is just under $2.00 and diesel is just over $2.00. At least that's the price in Western Washington. Typically, prices elsewhere are a little lower, but not always.
Good luck with whatever decision you make.
The easiest solution would be to install several of the computer type fans on the inside of the lower vent, using nylon ties. That's what I did. I used five fans and connected all of them to a switch. I had a twelve volt bar to draw power off along with a ground, so for me that was an easy choice. You may have a similar bar on the lower left. It is black with wires connected. Good luck.
Obviously, fans on top are more efficient and would be the first choice, but as you indicated access is the problem with that option. You could always have the frig pulled out later at a RV repair facility back in the states later.
Lacking any information about the tv, dvd, battery or inverter, my educated guess would be "a while".
Probably a few hours, but that would depend on the amperage draw combination of the TV, player and the inverter/converter.
Incidentally, you don't want to draw down the battery to less than 11.5 volts our you'll shorten its life considerably. Actually, two six volt batteries would last a lot longer as they tolerate deep discharge and recharging much better.
As long as the preventive maintenance was done, this sounds like a great buy. Good luck.
The Cummins 8.3 will outlast the coach. The engines can go 300,000 before Cummins recommends dropping the pan and checking the bearings, etc.
We have a 2013 Honda CRV, but haven't had a baseplate installed yet since our 2006 Hummer works so well as a toad. It is heavy at 4,600 lbs, but all I have to do is push one button for 10 seconds and that disconnects the drive train. No key needed in the ignition. The baseplate consists of changing the tow rings in front with brackets. Very easy.
However, if we get tired of the Hummer, we'll install a baseplate on the Honda. It is a very nice, comfortable car.
I replaced the relays in the control box several years ago as a precaution or preventive maintenance issue due to the age of my coach. It uses the same relays as those that are use everywhere else in my coach, but I can't recall the identifying number. I had bought a box of 24 on e-bay a few years earlier, so the cost was minimum to me. The box is black, about 5 inches square, and has Allison written on the cover. Mine was in the ceiling of my electrical bay, and right under the touch pad.
A second potential problem is one of the main relays could be sticking. The relays look just like those used for starters in cars in the 50's and early 60's, and look like a miniature beer can. They have copper posts in each side and two smaller electrical connections in front. They don't last forever but will generally fail intermittently, so there is some warning. If the relay doesn't work, your transmission won't be activated.
I've bought and sold thru Craig's list and haven't had any problems. However, I asked for and received a bunch of extra photos before traveling to another state to look and eventually buy a coach. I knew what to look for and accepted the premise that the seller wasn't going to tell me everything. He didn't, but that wasn't a problem. I fixed the minor problems (that he didn't have the ability or knowledge to do) and we're happy.
The most serious thing to watch for is roof leakage or any water damage. The other potential serious problem can be the drive train; engine and transmission, which can be expensive to replace. Brakes, suspension components, tires, etc. are all reasonably inexpensive to replace. The house components are supplied to the manufacturers by others and are normally reasonably easy to replace.
Two 6 volt batteries are a better choice for "house batteries".
Six volt batteries have three cells, which are larger with thicker plates than a 12 volt battery, which has six cells. So, the 6 volt battery will tolerate discharging and charging much better than the 12 volt.
Starting batteries should be 12 volt, even if you have two as most diesel pusher coaches have. They work better as they provide high amperage for a very short duration and then are recharged.
The sponsors of this forum, Camping World, sells water heaters and also offers installation.
You will need to know the size of the heater, which is expressed in gallons. Sometimes a larger heater will fit, and other times not. So, get the information off of the old heater and aim for an identical brand & model. That makes it easier to install. The make and model of your camper is almost useless since manufactures often change suppliers and offer different options.
No, a tankless model would involve a major remodel and significant expense. You don't want to go down that road. Stick with replacing what is already installed.
Unless the price is just too good to pass up, run away from this unit. There are just too many choices out there to take a chance on a leaking roof. Once the roof leaks, repairing the roof is reasonably easy, but repairing the leak damage is very difficult and expensive. It just isn't worth it. Keep looking.
If you call Monaco and give them your VIN, they may be able to find something. However, for a coach this old, it is unlikely they would have much.
One big advantage may be that your coach wasn't wired with wiring harnesses, but rather by running individual circuits, something like a house is wired. (That's the way my 1993 HR Navigator is wired.) That would apply to the house, not the engine or chassis, but Cummins (or Cat) might have some wiring diagrams. Call the engine maker with the engine serial number.
Spartan has been helpful in the past with specifics on components used on my chassis. I don't recall what identifying information they wanted to identify my chassis.
I have a Norcold portable freezer/refrigerator that was standard with the coach when new. It fits in the basement bay and runs off of either 120 volt (from the inverter/converter) or straight 12 volt from the house batteries. I built a "dog house" from 2 inch thick construction foam to improve the efficiency and I haven't noticed any significant power draw overnight while dry camping. We use it to store frozen food and ice. It uses a standard Freon refrigeration system, not a solid state or propane. It works great.
Aluminum will conduct heat much more efficiently then glass, so that's why the window frames have condensation and not the glass.
A dehumidifier would be the obvious solution. If you lower the amount of moisture in the air inside your RV, you'll have less condensation.
An alternate solution would be to improve ventilation by opening a roof vent, but this would cause some heat loss. Because of the high humidity already, ventilation alone may not be sufficient to solve all of your condensation problems.
Finally, replacing the windows with double pane (insulated) windows would normally not be cost effective due to the age of your rig and the cost of having the windows replaced. However, that would be one potential solution.
Good luck and stay dry.
Yes, you can be on shore power and getting 120v to run things but still be on battery for the 12v things if the converter is not "on"
BTW the fridge will not work on 120v if it does not have 12v to run the controls, so you will lose the fridge too fairly soon at this rate as the battery runs right down.
There are several reasons why that could be. EG, you might have accidentally reversed the battery wires the last time you installed the battery, which blows the two 30a fuses on the converter or its nearby Dc fuse panel.
Or the converter is not getting any 120v input if it has its own breaker and it has popped. Or it is not plugged in to its receptacle if it has a cord and is not hard wired. Or that receptacle is on a GFCI protected circuit and the GFCI has popped. Or...
All of the suggestions above are valid. You'll just have to do some looking and double checking until you find the cause.