RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Fishinghat' found 252 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 13  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: I need a tail light lense for a 1994 HR

Do as donn0128 suggested. Tail lights and running lights are generic. Not exactly true...My tail light lenses are from a Lincoln Navigator. However OEMs will NOT fit. The housings would have to be modified for the OEMs to work. My lenses are for a Navigator but are made by TYC. The back side of the lens housing is just different enough the OEM will not work. If you remove the housing, they have all the info stamped on the back side....Dennis The poster has a 1994 HR, and I have a 1993 HR. When I went to replace my broken running/brake lights, I bought replacements at NAPA. I suspect HR didn't go to specialty suppliers until later, perhaps after they were bought by Monaco.
Fishinghat 11/18/14 04:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: I need a tail light lense for a 1994 HR

Do as donn0128 suggested. Tail lights and running lights are generic.
Fishinghat 11/16/14 11:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Considering this used Class A.......

I have a 1993 HR Navigator, which is almost identical to this Imperial. (Navigator is at the top, Imperial is the next step down.) I previously owned a 1989 Imperial, and have owned our Navigator for over 10 years. If it was taken care of, you may have found a real jewel that could serve you for many, many years. Spend the money with Cummins to check out the engine. The Spartan chassis is strong as is the 3060 Allison transmission. If the afore mentioned roof leak didn't do any damage, you should be good to go. It is a very well built rig.
Fishinghat 11/16/14 11:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 12 V ground connection

I assume you are asking about a 12 Volt, not amp (amperage) ground connection. Electrical problems are frequently caused by a faulty ground which is generally caused by corrosion. Rust is the most obvious, but it can be lead oxide on a battery post, which is "lead rust" instead of iron rust. If your instrument indicates a minimum of resistance at a ground, it is testing the ground at a very low amperage. So, yes, a higher amperage test might indicate a complete failure instead of a limited failure that a low amperage test would show. Bottom line. Just take the connection apart, scrape and clean the surfaces, and reassemble. Ditto with the battery grounds.
Fishinghat 11/07/14 05:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery During Winter

Since you have no access to power at the storage site, you can either use a solar panel to keep the battery charged, or take the battery out and take it home. At home, put it on a trickle charger. A trickle charger is the preferred method.
Fishinghat 11/06/14 07:58pm Travel Trailers
RE: Ne RV, How to keep the Grey/Black Tanks Fresh?

I also vote for just plain water. Your rig will have a vent pipe on the roof that exhausts fumes/odor from the tanks, just like your stick house.
Fishinghat 11/06/14 07:46pm Full-time RVing
RE: Propane vs space heater

While living in Yuma, friends of ours did a comparison between their propane furnace and portable electric space heaters, and found the electric heaters to be more efficient overall, but the cost (to them) was about the same as the cost of the electricity was high due to a sir-charge by the park's management. The propane would have been more expensive if it had been delivered, but instead they had portable tanks refilled and transported the tanks themselves. Eventually they found the frequent chore of refilling the tanks not worth the trouble. (They still used propane to cook and run the refrigerator, but weekly use was significantly less.) Other friends who have their own lots, where they pay the basic electrical charge from the utility, have found electricity to be cheaper than propane for heating. The cost difference was a little more than half the cost of propane. I don't know how diligent they were in record keeping, or if it was for a whole winter season. Further, they had to pay a minimum fee each month, even when they used little or now power.
Fishinghat 11/02/14 10:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: CW Tampa employees used my toilet and didn't flush

RW310, you would have had more credibility if you hadn't mentioned the name of the competitor. Your posting sounds more like an advertisement for the competitor, especially since you are a new member and this was your first post. I don't want to discourage you from making postings and sharing your experiences. That is what this board is for. Just keep in mind some people won't follow the rules about advertising, so the monitors have to act accordingly.
Fishinghat 11/02/14 10:02am Camping World Service and Installation
RE: Belt squeal with A/C off, gone when ON???

I agree with you, and in the same order you gave. Good luck. (The belt is the cheapest and easiest to replace. The tensioner is second in both cost and difficulty. Finally, the clutch is the most expensive and the most difficult.)
Fishinghat 10/30/14 02:59pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best RV Park in Yuma Area

We liked Shangra La RV Resort in the Foothills, east of Yuma. They have a pool, activities, 50 amp power, full hookups, etc. However, there are perhaps 30 or more parks in the Foothills that are similar, plus another 20 or more parks in Yuma itself. Those in Yuma tend to be older and not quite as "nice". However, they are closer to the stores and Alcodonis, Mexico.
Fishinghat 10/28/14 11:03pm Snowbirds
RE: Source for solenoid? '87 Holiday Rambler Class C (E350)

It is a solenoid. There are two kinds, one that is designed to operate intermittently, like for starting the engine, and one that is designed to stay on constantly, like that needed to power things like wipers, heater blower, etc., that you want on when the engine is running, but off when the key is off. The are very, very common. I've bought some replacements at NAPA, but any good auto parts place will have what you need.
Fishinghat 10/22/14 10:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New here...campgrounds that do not allow campfires

Consider Yuma, Arizona. There are many, perhaps 100+ RV parks in the immediate area around Yuma, and very, very few have fire pits. However, it isn't a place you would want to stay during the summer since temperatures can get unbearable. From November to March it is very pleasant.
Fishinghat 10/14/14 04:30pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Gas Tax by state

Washington has one of the higher tax rates, but we don't have an income tax (yet). And, our state sales tax is about 9%, but the actual rate varies with local option taxes. Somehow, somebody has to pay for all these "benefits" our government provides, including the "free" roads.
Fishinghat 10/14/14 04:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Synthetic Oil - Do you use it in Cummins Engine?

Your eng should start easily down to -40 with grid heaters - about -30 without them so syn oil isn't really needed. You also have an eng that will go 700,000 to well over 1 million miles with normal maint. So it isn't really needed for longevity either. I tried in in two Cummins I owned but neither one got any better mileage or showed any kind of change. But if your the type that just likes to use the very best to take care of his toys (and I sure repect that!) then go for it. It sure wont hurt. X2 (Couldn't have said it any better.)
Fishinghat 10/14/14 04:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV Refrigerator

Absorption refrigerators are efficient users of electrical power, which powers the control unit, and propane (for cooling), but are slow to cool down from startup. Adding fans, both inside and outside, will improve efficiency and uniform cooling. Since RVs are frequently used where electricity is limited to batteries, household type (using a compressor and Freon) refrigerators are impractical. If an owner has a large enough coach with a large (six or eight 6 volt batteries), and is willing to recharge this battery bank frequently, then a residential type is preferred.
Fishinghat 09/28/14 10:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: May have to replace my House Batteries, what's good?

Costco and Sam's Club are both good resources for batteries. If you can locate the Interstate Battery Distributor in your area, call them and ask about returned or blemished batteries. You can save up to half the retail price.
Fishinghat 09/23/14 09:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fisher Paykel DW/generator

You'll have to change the setup. For some reason, the difference in voltage requires a different setting. Call Fisher-Paykel. They are very customer friendly. (I installed a FP "dishdrawer" 10 years ago and the wife LOVES it.)
Fishinghat 09/22/14 03:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Favorite Arizona winter RV parks for 55+?

Check out Yuma. Just to the east of town, called the Foothills, are perhaps 50 RV parks. We stayed at Shangri La, but there are many others just as nice with pools and 50 amp service.
Fishinghat 09/22/14 03:17pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Toshiba leaving us in the dust.

Keeping the processor cool is the key. The heat sinks installed by the manufacturers are just enough to make it work briefly. I install after market cooling fans with bigger heat sinks. Also, make sure you vacuum out the case frequently. Dust is a great insulator. Finally, I've had better luck with ASUS computers than HP, and all of my latest purchases have been of ASUS desktops and laptops. (That having been said, I'm using an HP desktop right now but with the cover off and an Enermax cooling system installed. It's my machine of choice.)
Fishinghat 09/22/14 03:10pm Technology Corner
RE: Holley four barrel carb exchanged for same list # NO!

Since you indicated you don't know much about carburetors, something that may interest you is filters will normally take out dirt that gets pumped up from the gas tank, as others have mentioned. However that is not normally the cause of a problem. The normal cause is old gas that has turned to varnish by being allowed to sit for some time. The volatile part of the gas evaporates leaving the varnish behind, and that gums up the little holes, called "jets", that allow gas to flow to the engine. Another cause is water left over from the alcohol that is now added to gasoline to meet emission standards. Stuff grows in the water and that can block the jets. Also, water won't go thru the jets unless it is mixed with alcohol. So, change the filter. It probably looks like a very short cigar and is right at where the fuel line connects to the carburetor. (It may be on the top right on the Holly if I remember correctly.) I don't think your Holly has a drain plug at the bottom unless it is very old, but if it does, you could drain out the debris and water. Taking the top off of the carburetor is a job better left to someone familiar with rebuilding a carburetor, so removing and exchanging it with a rebuilt would be the better choice. Good luck.
Fishinghat 09/22/14 02:48pm Class C Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 13  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS