No, I'm not going away. I stand by my statement. I've been using PCs for 27 years, since DOS 3.1. I know a piece of******when I see one and Windows 8.1 is a piece of crap. It was written to try to force people into using tablets. It was written for touchscreen tablets. Tablets DO NOT have mice. This is not "bad gas". It's more like trying to use the engine from a Honda Civic in your TV. It MIGHT work, but you will never be happy with it. It is simply a bad operating system being forced on people who don't realize they have options.
No offense, but I just have to join in here. I've also been using PCs since 3.1, and have used most of the Windows OS since they were introduced, including 8.1. I don't have a touch screen and use a mouse, yet 8.1 works just fine. I have Windows 7 on my laptop, and it works almost the same as 8.1. I will admit 8.1 was designed for touch pads, but our touch pads are all Apple products, and smart phones are Android, so I don't have any experience with the 8.1 and touchpad technology.
So, it is a matter of getting current with the technology. I know it can be frustrating, but be patient.
Going back to the original post, I would suggest cleaning out your Internet History and Cookies. Those are common causes of overloaded RAM.
If that doesn't help, try the Task Manager. (Control, Alternate, Delete.) See what is running and how much of the resources are being used. Check the startup menu for a program that's hogging RAM. Good luck.
Forget the trailer with the SLS. The combination would just be too heavy. Consider a lightweight car that can be towed four down. Even then you'll have to have the frame reinforced. Those Class C coaches on 28' chassis were not designed for heavy duty towing.
Your tanks may have a combination of propane and butane. Propane is fine as it will "boil" at a very low temperature, but butane stops boiling at about 32 degrees F. In warm weather, using either fluid is fine and distributors mix the two. You may have burnt off all of the propane and all you have now in your tank is butane. The only solution now is to heat the tank up to about 40 degrees or better. Or, have a propane distributor drain and refill your tank.
You could have moisture in your tank and that could freeze your regulator. I don't know how to correct that problem except to empty the tank. A propane distributor may be able to do that for you.
Finally, don't insulate your tanks. They need to absorb heat from the air even at below freezing temperatures to boil the propane. If you're going to heat your tanks, then insulation may be needed to keep the heat in.
From your description, it appears your frig's cooler coils are overheating. I'd suggest installing several small computer type fans to the inside of the lower vent cover, using nylon ties. Connect the fans to a switch and to the 12 volt supply. You can turn the fans on during the day and off at night.
You could also install two of the larger fans on top of your cooling coils on the back of the frig and connect them to a thermal couple to automatically turn the fans on and off. This would require removing the frig into the coach to access the coils on the top. However, many newer coaches have these fans installed during assembly, and it probably would be the preferred method for you or others updating their coaches.
I have a 1993 HR Navigator and have had the same problem with limited light. As you mentioned, our headlights are of the type where you can replace the bulb only, so the reflective material can get dirty and/or oxidized, and water can accumulate. Replacement of the whole light assembly is a preferred solution.
I also have fog lights as well as a roof light, that with the high & low beams, will really light up the road ahead.
Remember, warranty companies are in business to make a profit, not save you money. As a rule of thumb, never insure what you can afford to loose. You insure your car since you can't afford to buy another one, but you don't insure your pencil since you can afford to replace it.
On the other hand, if buying a warranty gives you peace of mind you can't get any other way, go for it. Some people need the reassurance they think they are getting, and that makes them happy.
Many things go into rating a policy holder besides citations and chargeable collisions. Your age, credit rating, principal address, and the record(s) of other drives in the household also count.
In Washington State, the state legislators passed a law the insurance companies could only consider the last 36 months history to underwrite your policy. So, being a policy holder in good standing for 20+ years doesn't mean squat anymore.
I previously had a 1989 HR Imperial Class C, but I don't recall any key switch near the driver's seat on the floor. That must have been something the former owner installed.
As for the floor switch, I suspect it is a high beam headlight switch. I can't remember when manufacturers switched to a relay controlled by a switch on the turning signal stalk.
I think you may be confusing the outside tire vs. both dual tires. You put chains on the outside tire of the dual set on each side of the vehicle. The inside tire of a dual tire set is not normally required to have chains.
I installed four computer fans on the inside of the lower vent to force cooling air past the coils and up and out the top vent. It seems to have helped quite a bit. The second thing I did was install a computer fan inside, wired to the light switch (before the switch so it stays on all the time). That has reduced the frost building up in the frig to near "0". Of course, the freezer still needs defrosting.
Some newer coaches have two larger fans at the top of the frig at the back on top of the top cooling coils and connected to thermal switches so they only run when the frig coils are quite warm. They appear to be a common feature as I've noticed these on new frig units for sale at RV stores.
Finally, I'm amazed a 1979 frig is still working. You're lucky.
I've never bought or considered an ex-rental RV, but judging how people use/mistreat rental anything, I'd have some serious reservations. The price would have to be very, very competitive.
A gas rig with over 100K, would be well used. At one time, gas engines wouldn't last more than about 100K, but they are better built now. (The same is not true for diesels as they can go 300K plus before needing an overhaul.) The same holds true for transmissions. On the other hand, if the price is right, the cost of a new (to you) engine/transmission from a salvaged RV might be a logical option.
If the rig has over 100K, the interior furnishings and appliances would also be well used. Keep that in mind.
We took a similar 40 day trip in 1995 with our two children, then 11 & 16, in a 28 ft Class C. It went perfectly. We stayed in campgrounds with pools each night so the kids could get some exercise. They especially enjoyed the theme parks, so don't pass those up.
Since we started from Washington State, we drove across the US to Niagara Falls, then New York, Philadelphia, Gettysburg, Washington, Kentucky (Grand Ole Opry), then back west across the US to Los Vegas, Grand Canyon, and up the coast back to Washington State. We stopped at every tourist trap and scenic outlook we saw, as well as National Monuments, Parks, etc. We didn't see "everything", but we didn't miss a whole lot either.
That is what I've been told as well.
Both of my windshields were replaced before I bought my coach, and they don't quite fit perfectly. They also don't leak. Friends that have had their windshield's replaced have mentioned gaps of 1/4 inch or more at the curves where they could seen thru the gaps between the new glass and the fiberglass front cap. It is just something we have to live with.
The alternator on your engine is designed to bring the battery back up to 80% faster than the generator and converter. That said, the alternator on the engine can overheat if you don't run the engine at 1200 rpm or so. It just wasn't designed to recharge an almost dead battery at low rpm.
The suggestion to use your generator for two hours in the morning and two hours in the evening is a good one. That's what we've done. It won't bring your battery up to a full charge, but good enough. Adding a second battery is also a good suggestion.
Yes, basic physics (impossible to overcome with hope or even good advertising) dictates that the worse the WB/OL (Wheelbase/Overall length) ratio, the more likely that there will be handling issues, particularly under adverse conditions such as cross winds.
BUT, handling, ride, etc are all SUBJECTIVE. So, many with both good WB/OL and those with poor WB/OL can honestly post that their handling is "fine".
So, given that everything else is the same (suspension, weight distribution, etc) WB/OL IS, repeat IS important.
Can a poor WB/OL be overcome with expensive suspensions-- sure. I know Foretravel made a 34' DP that did reasonably well. But 8 outboard air bags, 8 shocks, etc made for a pretty costly upgrade.
Best advice is to drive any on your short list UNDER LESS THAN IDEAL CONDITIONS-- on smooth roads and no cross winds, they all do just fine. Same thing we did in shopping for sailboats-- scheduled sea trials when the weather forecast was poor.
We have a 35 ft that we've owned for 11 years. It's worked out fine for us, but a longer coach (with a longer wheel base) would be better. I've also owned boats, and the advice to do sea trials in foul weather is excellent.
I previously used extenders until one leaked and caused a tire to go flat while parked. It could have caused some major damage, but I caught it before driving off.
The commercial tire place recommended I not use the extenders saying they leak too frequently to be reliable. Apparently, the extenders rub on the outside tire wheel where they go thru the hole in the wheel and that's where they fail.
Instead, get a commercial type pressure gauge that allows you to reach in and check or fill a tire without using an extender. They are very inexpensive.
Do as donn0128 suggested. Tail lights and running lights are generic.
Not exactly true...My tail light lenses are from a Lincoln Navigator. However OEMs will NOT fit. The housings would have to be modified for the OEMs to work. My lenses are for a Navigator but are made by TYC. The back side of the lens housing is just different enough the OEM will not work. If you remove the housing, they have all the info stamped on the back side....Dennis
The poster has a 1994 HR, and I have a 1993 HR. When I went to replace my broken running/brake lights, I bought replacements at NAPA. I suspect HR didn't go to specialty suppliers until later, perhaps after they were bought by Monaco.
I have a 1993 HR Navigator, which is almost identical to this Imperial. (Navigator is at the top, Imperial is the next step down.) I previously owned a 1989 Imperial, and have owned our Navigator for over 10 years.
If it was taken care of, you may have found a real jewel that could serve you for many, many years. Spend the money with Cummins to check out the engine.
The Spartan chassis is strong as is the 3060 Allison transmission. If the afore mentioned roof leak didn't do any damage, you should be good to go. It is a very well built rig.