I also have a 1993 coach, and replaced my Midland dryer with a new Bendix just for preventive reasons some 8 or 9 years ago. The old dryer was clean.
Loosing five pounds over 30 minutes isn't that bad. The purging is something I haven't noticed, although I assume it functions on a regular basis. Rather than repair your old dryer, I'd suggest just replacing it like I did.
This has been discussed here on the forum many times and the most common and accepted answer for a shotgun in the RV seems to be that; it can't be within reach of the driver, it can't be "sawed off" (or have a barrel of less than "x" inches), and it can't be loaded with a round in the chamber.
As for your RV being your "home" and exempt from illegal search and seizure, the courts have ruled that an RV on the road (or movable) is not protected and can be searched without a warrant by a LEO if he/she has probable cause. If the RV is on blocks and can't be moved, then the LEO has to get a warrant.
The GFI (ground fault interrupter) outlet in your RV is not dependent on the 120 volt power plug adapter's, unless you have disconnected the ground or crossed the wires somehow.
The adapter should allow 1/2 of your RV to be powered by the 15 amp source and the other half by the 30 amp source. Fifty amp power means the RV has two circuits that can draw 50 amps each, but they are not "combined" since that would give you 240 volts, and that would destroy your RV's electrical system. (That is, unless you have a VERY high end coach with a 240 volt system.)
As DSDP Don suggested, it may not have the Cummins but a Navistar. Navistar is owned by International Harvester, but the engines were of a new design and reliability could be an issue.
As for price, look it up on the NADA web site for some basic info. You could check PPL's web site for sold units to see what similar coaches have sold for recently.
This time of the year, you'll have problems finding a campground with an open site. I'd suggest calling the KOA in Kent to see if they have an opening (although I doubt it). Otherwise, I'd suggest staying at one of the campgrounds near Easton, east of North Bend on I-90, and about an hour from Seattle.
Welcome to Synthetic-Oil-Technology.info! This site is dedicated to giving you some basic facts about synthetic motor oils and other lubricants commonly used in today's cars and trucks.
What is synthetic oil?
The easiest way to define what synthetic oil is, is to define what it is NOT. Conventional motor oil as we have known it for the last 100 years or so is derived from crude oil that is taken from the earth with oil wells. Through a complex distillation process the crude oil is refined into many different liquids, or fractions, each having distinct characteristics. Some are very light and are used as fuel (gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel), and some are heavier and are used as lubricants (motor oil, gear lube, grease). There are many molecular compounds present in crude oil and many of those compounds are still present in the refined product, detracting from the physical properties of that product. For instance, paraffinnic waxes are present in crude-based oil, but contribute nothing to the lubricative properties of the oil. Also, the size of the hydrocarbon molecules themselves are non-uniform in crude-based oils. Synthetic oil contains none of these contaminants and the hydrocarbon molecules are very uniform, giving the synthetic oil base better mechanical properties at extreme high and low temperature (see the sections below on physical properties). By contrast, synthetic oil is not distilled from crude oil. It is made through a chemical process known as the Fischer-Tropsch process, starting with raw materials like methane, carbon monoxide, and carbon dioxide. This process was developed by Germany in WWII, when that country's access to crude oil was very limited.
Grades of oil.
Motor oils are derived from base stocks. That is, a generic oil base is modified with additives to produce a lubricant with the desired properties. A base stock oil with no additives would not perform very well at all. Base stocks are classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API) and fall into one of five categories.
Group I and II - these are mineral oils derived from crude oil
Group III - this is a highly refined mineral oil made through a process called hydrocracking. In North America this group is considered a synthetic oil, for marketing purposes.
Group IV - these are true synthetic oils, known as Polyalphaolefin (PAO).
Group V - these are synthetic stocks other than PAO's and include esters and other compounds.
All oils behave differently at different temperatures. As temperatures drop, the hydrocarbon molecules in mineral oils start to line up and stick together. This causes the viscosity of the oil to increase, which makes it harder for it to lubricate an engine. At high temperatures, the opposite happens and the oil's viscosity decreases, making it less effective at protecting moving parts. Additives knows as Viscosity Improvers are added to combat this. Basically viscosity improvers are coiled molecules that shorten when cold, and lenthen when hot. The short, cold molecules interfere with the hydrocarbons lining themselves up, and the longer hot molecules help things stick together better (at the molecular level) and keep things from getting too 'loose'. Unfortunately, viscosity improvers break down when exposed to heat and mechanical shearing, so oils that use a lot of viscosity improvers don't last very long. This is where synthetics have an advantage. The branched-chain structure of synthetic oils naturally resist changes in viscosity with temperature. It's just the way they're made. Therefore, true synthetic oils often don't need any viscosity improvers at all! This is one reason synthetic oils last so much longer than non-synthetics. The physical property used to quantify an oil's resistance to viscosity change with temperature is known as the Viscosity Index (VI). The higher the VI, the more resistant to viscosity change the oil is.
TBN stands for Total Base Number. TBN is a measure of the oil's alkalinity. Alkalinity in an oil is important because the combustion process produces acids which can attack metals and other materials in an engine, increasing wear. When oil is new the TBN is highest. Over time, TBN decreases until finally the oil reaches a point where it can not absorb any more acids and the acidity of the oil in the engine will start to rise. Most often, it is this depletion of TBN which signals that an oil is 'worn out' and due to be changed. TBN is measured in milligrams of Potassium Hydroxide per gram (mg KOH/g). For automotive applications, TBN is around 7-10, while for diesels it is between 10 and 15 because diesels produce more acids and often go longer between oil changes. A synthetic oil that is formulated for long change intervals must have a high TBN.
The Pour Point is the lowest temperature at which the oil can still be poured out of a container. Non-synthetic oils can be so thick at low temperatures that they will not even pour out of the bottle! Synthetics generally retain pourability at any temperature you are likely to encounter in the physical world.
Flash point is the temperature at which the vapor of the oil will start to combust, but not continue to burn when mixed with air. Synthetics have much higher flash points than non-synthetics.
This is a test in which the oil is heated to a temperature of 250 degrees C for one hour, after which the percentage of weight lost by the oil is measured. This indicates the extent to which the lighter-weight fractions of the oil are volatilized and lost to the atmosphere. An oil that volatilizes easily performs poorly because it quickly becomes thick and doesn't reach the far reaches of the engine we well. In extreme cases the oil turns into a sludge and catastrophic engine damage occurs. Noack Volatility is expressed as a percentage, so lower numbers are better. A good synthetic oil has volatility numbers under 10 percent or so. Conventional oils have Noack volatility numbers as high as 25 percent.
Shear stability is an expression of how well the oil stands up to mechanical shear loads. In an internal combustion engine, oil is subjected to extreme shear loads as parts slide past each other. Oils with poor shear stability will 'shear out' and lose viscosity. Synthetic oils have far superior shear stability compared to conventional oils.
Most oils contain detergent and dispersant additives to combat deposits and sludge build-up inside the engine. Diesel oils tend to have higher levels of detergents.
Most oils used in automotive and truck applications are Multi-grade oils. This is indicated by the familiar nomenclature like 10W-30 or 10W-40. The second number (30, 40, etc) is the nominal viscosity of the oil at 100 degrees C. Thus, a 10W-30 behaves the same as a straight 30 weight oil when it is hot. The first number is the Winter weight of the oil. It indicates how the oil behaves when cold. '10W' indicates than the oil behaves as a straight SAE 10 weight oil when cold. As previously noted, non-synthetic oils achieve this behavior with VI additives. Synthetics can easily achieve 5W or even 0W ratings with no viscosity improvers added. The bottom line is that synthetic oils pump better then non-synthetics when cold. In extremely cold climates a 0W-30 synthetic oil can be very beneficial.
More and more new engines use lighter oils, like 5W-20, to achieve higher fuel efficiency. Ford, Honda, and Toyota are using these oil weights in all their newer cars, and more will follow suit as fuel efficiency standards continue to be tightened. 0W-20 oils are also starting to hit the market. Most cars on the road, though, use something in the 5W-30 to 10W-40 range.
Is it safe to switch to synthetic oil?
Yes, you can switch your car to synthetic oil at any time. Synthetic oil and conventional oil will mix without issues, so you don't have to worry about a little bit of old oil in the engine mixing with the synthetic and causing problems. Conventional oils can leave a lot of deposits and sometimes even sludge inside an engine. Synthetic oil will gradually dissolve most of these deposits. An engine with severe sludge problems may need more specialized attention, such as engine flush treatments or even a rebuild. Normal cars that have had regular maintenance will have no issues, though.
Video: Synthetic Oil Basics
Wow, thanks for the info. This is going to take a while to digest, but is worth every minute spent.
I only know of two modifications that seem to work for most people. One is to pull the fuse that powers the accessories. The other is to run a charging line from your coach to the toad's battery to keep it charged up. If you use a braking system that uses the toad's battery, this would be the preferred method of keeping the battery charged up. If you pull the fuse, the electrical plug may not be powered, so the charging line may be your only good solution.
Finally, you could stop every few hours and run the toad's engine to recharge the battery.
Since you want an automatic with no modifications, I'd suggest a used Honda CRV or Saturn. Both are good models and you should be able to find one in your price range.
We tow a Hummer H3, which doesn't require any modifications but they can be a bit pricey and they are heavy at 4,600 lbs.
I would seriously consider a used diesel pusher to get the towing capacity you are looking for. You are probably also going to want to haul your merchandise in the Avalanche to allow more room in the coach, so a 10,000 lb capacity might be closer to your needs.
As for a diesel, I'd look for a Cummins ISC or ISL, as the ISB may be taxed pulling a heavy load along with the weight of the coach. Otherwise, the ISB would be just fine if you tow a light load or don't overload the coach.
Some friends of ours tow a Odyssey and the only problem they've had is with the battery running down on a long (1,500 mile) trip, possibly due to the draw from their BrakeBuddy. I believe their Honda is about a 2006 or 2008.
As you may have already discovered, RV parks in the Seattle area are almost non-existent. The KOA in Kent is almost always full.
I'd try one of the campgrounds in Easton, east of North Bend, on I-90, near the pass. The area is cool at night and you're about an hour and a half from downtown Seattle, or Tacoma via Hwy 18.
The answers on the Essex Credit web site were excellent.
Since you have an excellent credit score, you may have a significant equity in your home and you can use that as collateral for a loan. Using your home allows you to consider a older (over 10 years old) diesel motorhome that those with poorer credit could not qualify to buy, thus reducing the potential market and the price.
Also, since you can qualify for your own financing, you can consider buying from a private party. Buying an older high quality diesel pusher from a private party is what we did (although it was 10 years ago) and we couldn't be happier.
We tow a '06 Hummer H3. It didn't need a baseplate, only tow bar connectors that replaced the two tow rings on the front bumper. Braking is by a Roadmaster 9000 connected to the air system in the coach. Wiring for the lights was installed by Tork Welding. The transfer case is put in neutral and no other changes are needed.
The Hummer replaced a Mustang convertible with a manual transmission. Baseplate was installed by Tork Welding along with wiring for the lights, and we didn't use a braking system.
Both cars have towed well without any problems.
Since you won't (or can't) run your generator at night, and you want your furnace to run all night, I'd suggest installing a second battery. Two 6 volt batteries should give you sufficient amperage to run all night.
The portable generator of choice is Honda due to reliability and quietness. I'm sure there are other manufacturers who offer competitive generators.
I live about 15 minutes from the Kent KOA and notice that it is full most of the time. However, it is very convenient to the freeway and both Tacoma and Seattle.
There are much nicer campgrounds on I-90 east of North Bend in the mountains, where it is cooler at night. They are about an hour from Seattle and just over an hour to Tacoma via Hwy 18.
It primarily depends on humidity. Air conditioners have two functions, remove moisture from the air and cool the air. If the unit won't cycle because it is too hot or too much moisture is in the air, then the accumulated moisture freezes on the cools reducing the amount of air that can pass thru. The unit normally turns itself off to defrost the coils, called cycling.
So, leave the fan on high until the rig is cooled down and much of the moisture has been removed. You may have to leave the temperature turned up (warmer) to allow the unit to cycle. Then you could turn the fan down to low. Listen for the unit to cycle. If it doesn't cycle, then turn the temperature up until it cycles on a regular basis and/or leave the fan on high.
Probably a dumb question, but do those types of scales work like the CAT scales where you can get individual axle weights including the axles on the trailer?
every one I have used is Yes. most are a platform, so you can usually get two axles on at a time or individual axles. or by moving far enough right/left get individual tire loads.
I usually drive front axle on, write down weight, drive forward with both TV axles on write down weight, drive forward for just trailer axle/axles and repeat. that gives all the info needed to calculate each axle weight.
This is what I've done at closed weight stations. The scale is left "on" or operating, and I just drove on. I had to stay to the left to weight just one side of the axle.
The MSRP was the product of a law passed after WWII when dealers were posting different prices on cars, but it covers only cars and possibly light duty trucks (pickups and SUVs). The MSRP was standard from the manufacturer and had to be posted in the window of every new car.
There is no such law regarding RVs or used vehicles. That MSRP posting can be anything the dealer or manufacturer wants to publish. As for the actual wholesale price to the dealer, that is subject to adjustments, such as rebates on advertising, flooring (finance) discounts, sales objective rebates, etc.
We've discussed discounts from MSRP here on the forum many times and the most common remark is a 25 to 30% discount. However, there is no hard and fast rule due to the previously mentioned reasons.
Your best solution is to shop and compare. Good luck.