Normally, electric is more efficient then propane cost wise. However, at some parks we've stayed at, the park doubles the cost per kilowatt that the local utility charges them. That is because the park owns the electrical system in the park, including the posts and the meters.
Still, for convenience, I'd still use the electric option. Otherwise, you'll have to have your propane tank refilled frequently. For us in Yuma, the cost was almost equal in the park. On a private lot, the cost of electric was half. The only exception would be the frig. It is a very efficient user of propane, but uses quite a bit of electric to accomplish heating the coils. So, leave the frig on propane.
Folks, this is why Microsoft is giving away for free, copies of Windows 10 to all owners of 8.1, 7 and, I think, XP. Microsoft knows people aren't going to buy it since all three of those operating systems work quite well, AND WE KNOW HOW TO USE THEM. We've worked thru all the bugs and conflicts. We don't want to do it again, and again, and . . .
Diesel engine in the front - loud. Diesel in the rear - much quieter. I have had a gas motorhome and now a diesel pusher. I could never go back to a gasser.
Drive both to truly understand the difference.
Keeping he cells full of distilled water, keeping the posts clean and storing the batteries charged up. Seems like you've covered everything that's important.
Since all cells produce 2 volts, a 6 volt battery will have three cells and a 12 volt will have 6 cells. Since both are the same size overall, the cells in the 6 volt are bigger and the lead plates are larger, which allows the battery to tolerate deep cycling (down to 11 volts) much better than a typical 12 volt battery.
I have two totally automatic battery minders to keep two sets of batteries charged. (The two engine batteries and my CPAP battery. My coach's house batteries are charged by the inverter/converter.) Both of these work well and I'd recommend using one. They are both totally electronic and automatic. I believe they are rated at 5 amps. That's enough to keep the batteries charged. Since you'll be charging batteries that have been significantly discharged, you may want to consider a high amperage battery tender.
Eventually, you're going to want "more space", and a 45 ft class A is as big as RVs go. It will have a diesel and a diesel generator, and at least a 100 gallon tank. Some coaches have a propane generator which is not anywhere as desirable as a diesel since you can run out of propane very quickly, but not diesel.
Generators are very efficient users of diesel, but they are noisy. You are probably going to want to add solar panels to reduce the running time of the generator.
As others have noted, your holding tanks will be more of a concern than fuel. Class A rigs generally have larger tanks then Class C, and possibly even a Super C.
My 23 yr old rig has a 40 gallon black water tank and 60 gal grey water tank. I believe my fresh water tank is 60 gallons, but my memory is failing me. My fuel tank holds 150 gallons. My wife and I can go two weeks boondocking. It is the black water tank that is our weakest link.
There are only a couple of actual manufacturers, so your real choices are few. If as you say you boondock a lot and have the room, golf cart batteries are your best option.
X2 (While there are only two manufacturers, they make batteries by contract, and make them the way the retailer wants them made.)
I'd also recommend golf cart, also known as 6 volt deep cycle, batteries. The cheapest place I know of is Costco.
You got 8 years out of your old batteries. That's great. I'd also recommend changing the engine batteries as a preventive measure.
Since you've indicated the key is in the ignition and the steering wheel is unlocked, there aren't many other potential causes.
About the only solution I would suggest at this point is to have someone ride in the truck while it is being towed and have that person try and turn the wheel in the correct direction when you make a turn. If the truck's wheels turn in the direction your coach turned, then you'll know it is a "following" problem. That is, the suspension and steering system in the truck won't respond to being pulled around a corner. If that's the case, it is a basic design flaw that probably can't be changed.
On the other hand, the person in the truck may be able to tell right away what the problem is and it could be a simple thing like not leaving the key in the right position.
One point that was touched on here, but not fully explained regards searching of your RV without a warrant. (Of course, the LEO has to have probable cause.)
Our Supreme Court ruled many years ago that a "movable" RV is not protected from search like a residence, even if the owners are living in it. As long as it can be "moved" within a short but reasonable amount of time, it is not protected. Now, an RV that is not movable can't be searched without a warrant.
Now, if this is confusing, don't feel embarrassed. A US Circuit Court got it wrong and Justice Burger had to explain it to the lower court. If the RV is connected to water, power and sewer, it is movable. If the wheels are off of it, and it would take considerable work to make it movable, it is protected. So, if you're on the road and get pulled over, the LEO can inspect your RV, but of course, he has to have probable cause. If he asks for permission, just say you respectfully decline.
Don't take a handgun since possession laws can land you in jail. Instead, take a 12 gauge pump shotgun. You don't need a license. Everyone, especially a potential crook, knows what a pump shotgun sounds like when a round is loaded. So, the sound will scare him away and you won't have to expose yourself or fire a "warning shot". That way, you won't have to explain anything to the police and you'll be safe.
In over 20 years of RVing, we've only been "approached" once and he moved on once we told him we didn't have what he wanted. (I think he wanted a sandwich, or something like that.) I spoke thru the windows, and not at the front door. I kept out of sight. This was in the parking lot of a closed Wal-Mart. We've never had any other incidents. (This may sound cruel, but he didn't appear to be interested in getting a sandwich, but rather in casing our precautions. It was around midnight or a little later.)
As myredracer suggested, it could be a low voltage problem on the park's pedestal. Your coach probably has a voltage transfer box that ignores voltage if it is too low. (My 1993 coach has that feature and I would assume yours would as well.)
There is no cheap, simple solution other than using a portable battery charger. (I've done that to keep my batteries up while I used the house battery bank as in dry camping.)
The "stock" answer is to use the pressure molded into the rubber on the side of the tire. However, as others have posted, if you're empty and ride would be better at a lower pressure. I wouldn't think that would be a problem as long as the pressure drop isn't more than 20% or so.
Holiday Rambler routinely installed the generator fuel line higher on the tank then the engine fuel line, about at the 1/4 level. So, make sure you have at least a half tank of fuel and the coach is level. That should rule out this as being the cause of lack of fuel.
Good luck. Holiday Rambler made some of the best make RVs back in the days when they were an independent company. We've owned two HR's and have loved both.
I'll take a stab at a possible reason. When the generator is running, it could/should/might supply both 120 and 12 volt power. Since the steps work on 12 volt, power is available. When she is connected to shore power, the coach has 120 volt, but 12 volt would be supplied by an inverter/converter that should/could be charging the house batteries. For some reason, the battery power isn't being supplied to the steps. Aside from run down house batteries, a possible cause could be the solenoid that is sticking and needs replacement. They look like little beer cans with copper arms on each side and small connections near the bottom. They are easy to replace and are available from any auto parts store.
Since the steps work on generator power, a blown fuse is unlikely. While ground wires are a typical cause of problems, since it works on generator power, that's also unlikely.
Since you have an HR, I'm going to assume you have the HWH system like I have.
On the pump you'll see four valves, each with a handle Make sure all four are open. This allows the fluid to flow back to the pump just from the pressure of the springs, like Brett said.
I have sprayed my jacks with silicone spray as I suspect the rubber seals are getting old at 23 years. That seemed to help. My springs are all original.
Finally, I changed the fluid in the tank just to make sure no foreign junk was causing a problem. My system uses MD 3, the transmission fluid. I think it was less than a gallon.
I don't use the humidifier, so my experience is probably different. Also, my coach has an inverter that supplies 120 volt power from four house batteries, so that isn't an issue. The battery backup system from the manufacturer was something over $300.
At home I made a battery backup in case the power went out, especially at night when I probably wouldn't be aware of it. I used a tractor battery from Costco, about $65, and an automatic 3 amp battery tender supplying the battery with replacement power. I leave it connected all the time.
I'm on my third CPAP machine and all of them worked on 12 volt power, abet with a transformer in the power line to drop voltage from 120 to 12. So, I just bought a power plug from an electronics store (negative on the outside, positive on the inside) and wired it up.
I'm not sure what the replacement schedule is for CPAP machines as I could never get a straight answer from anybody. But, I found if I complained that my machine wasn't working like I thought it should, it got replaced. All of my machines have had a recording device built in and the results could be downloaded by the provider.
Wow, no pets? You're going to have a difficult time finding a park in Yuma that doesn't allow pets. But, there are a lot, and I mean a LOT, of RV parks in Yuma, so you may get lucky.
The reason for allowing pets is many RV owners have pets.
As for aircraft noise, you realize the Marines have a base there and they fly very noisy jets?
As for trains, the first "transcendental railroad" went right thru town and the trains still use those tracks.
Your best bet might be to the south of Yuma at one of the older parks since they are further from the airport (Marine base) and the railroad. I can't offer any names since I just don't remember them. The parks out in east of town, called Foothills, are closer to both the airport and the railroad tracks, although the tracks at this point are north about 1/4 of a mile or more.
Side radiator are far less troublesome than the rear radiators, possibly because the manufacturers may have used a less expensive radiator core to save money. Several of our friends with rear radiators have had to have them rodded out or repaired, while none of our friends with side radiators have had problems. Our coach is a 1993 with a side radiator and it has never had any problems.
It's good to hear about good service from Camping World, especially since they sponsor this web site without interfering with our posts.
I've also used Camping World in the past for things I couldn't or wouldn't do and have good service every time. It was expensive, but worth it. (They installed an awning on our old coach 15 years ago, fixed a different (newer coach) awning spring 6 years ago, and installed a new frig about four years ago.)