As soon as you disconnect the negative from the battery (1), all is dead....
Correct. Disconnect the negative wire to ground (vehicle chassis) first and that way if you should inadvertently touch a positive wire to the chassis, nothing will happen. So, negative wire off the post first.
You can call Fisher Paykel. I've called them in the past (well, several years ago) and they were most helpful. My dishdrawer also acts up occasionally, but I've found it is sometimes due to the water pressure setting (my pump has a lower pressure than city water) can cause it to quit after a few seconds. I have to set it for low pressure if the water is provided by the pump.
My coach is 22 years old (1993) and has an HWH system. It is all original, with the original cylinders and springs. But, I have maintained it properly. I've changed the fluid (it only takes a gallon of HD3) and lubricated all the pivot points. I've also sprayed the exposed shafts of the cylinders with silicone every time I've extended them. That keeps the seals lubricated.
I had to replace one of the relays (and have many, many relays -all the same) but I considered that to be just a minor maintenance item due to age. I bought a box of 24 relays on the internet and I must have used half of them by now.
No, not to my knowledge. The air dryer has a filter that normally would be replaced every "x" number of miles on a commercial truck, but the amount of use your coach gets, the filter will last a life time. The coach chassis has to be lubricated, including the braking components, but that is something the technician will do as part of your routine preventive maintenance.
(My coach is a 1993 and I replaced my MIdland air drier some 10 years ago just a preventive measure. When I took it apart, it was clean and didn't need to be replaced. I installed a new Bendix dryer. Since these dryers are used by garbage trucks that stop every 50 feet, they get a LOT of use. Even those trucks only replace the filter once a year.)
I must have 10 or so of these free Harbor Freight meters, with most still in their display packaging. (They were free without having to buy anything up until late last year.) I use them frequently. I don't depend on the meter to give me an exact readout, and most of the time an accurate reading isn't that important anyway. They come in handy to determine if a circuit is hot, or ground is functioning.
Besides, you can't beat the price. (Even if you have to buy something else now, it is still a good deal.)
We stayed at Shangrila in the past for several years and would recommend the park. The spaces are not that tight, or not as tight as I've seen in other parks. The spaces provide enough space to park your car next to your coach, even if you have the awning out.
Shangraila is out in the Foothills, about 15 minutes from downtown Yuma. Most of the newer parks are out in the Foothills.
No, I don't know of any A/C that turns the fan off.
When your A/C is running, the compressor causes the coils to get cold on one side, possibly causing a build up of frost, and heat on the other side. The fan not only circulates the air but defrosts the cold coils and cools the hot side. The fan needs to run all the time to avoid problems.
You could try turning the fan speed down, but keep in mind that you may then have problems with the coils freezing up, especially in humid weather.
First off, almost all solar panels will only produce enough electricity to keep a charged battery charged up, but not to re-charge a run down battery.
Second thing, solar panels are big and expensive. Unless you are willing to spend some serious money on panels that will set out on stands pointing at the sun and storing them when you are not there, forget that option.
Third. I'd suggest what most people who dry camp a lot do. Buy a Honda or Yamaha "quiet" generator and charge your battery(s) for an hour or so in the morning and evening.
Go9ing off topic here, but if you plan to do a lot of dry camping, consider switching to two 6 volt deep cycle batteries if your rig doesn't already have them. They work much better than 12 volt batteries, even if they are marked "deep cycle".
I would suggest looking for a tow bar that stays on the coach instead of the front of your CRV when not in use. Almost all of the newer, more expensive tow bars are the type that stay on the coach.
As others have posted, stick with the two well known brands (Roadmaster or Blue OX) and make it sure it is in good condition.
Without reservations, your best bet might be to drive along and check the private campgrounds along the coast. The state parks might be a better/cheaper choice, but most will be full from those who made reservations.
The national forests offer camping without a reservation system, using a "first come - first served" policy. Most of the sites are very primitive. I would assume you'd want something to keep your kids involved, such as a river or the ocean beaches.
Thanks tcooper and Brett. At this point I think I'll just let the local Freightliner dealer take a look at it and see what they think. I'll suggest adjusting the steering box, but I'll let them do any adjusting.
I originally thought all I had to do was loosen the lock net, turn the set screw down to the end of travel and then back off 1/2 turn or so. But, apparently, that is not a good option since, as randallb pointed out, that screw is for the setup of the box.
YC 1, that video from TRW was very helpful. Thanks. However, I don't think I have a TRW, although the adjustment screw looks identical.
However, like randallb suggested, adjusting the adjustment screw may not be a good idea. So, I think I'll error on the side of safety and avoid changing the settings.
Dakdave, thanks for the tip. I think I'll take my coach down to the local Freightliner dealer and have them check the bellcrank, as well as the rest of the steering components. I'm getting too old and tired to muscle parts off and on under the coach, so I'll let some young buck do the dirty work.
Prior to this last year or two, the Honda CRV was towable. It seems to be a very popular choice. We have a 2012 CRV, and although it is towable, our Hummer serves that need and we haven't had any reason to set the Honda up.
I have a 1993 HR Navigator on a Spartan Mountain Master chassis. My steering gear has an adjusting screw on the side, which I assume is to take out any looseness or slack in the steering. Does anyone know what the settings are? That is, how far do I back off the center screw after it makes contact? I'm assuming something like 1/2 turn would be enough, but I don't want to experiment only to have the steering lock up on me at a very inappropriate time.
I've had a frame shop check the front end and the alignment, and all is within specifications. I've even raised the front end up and checked for any worn or loose parts and everything seems tight and in good shape. (I do the lubrication myself, so I know all the zert fittings have been serviced.)
Before calling tech support, I'd suggest deleting your cookies. To do that, go to your internet browser, tools, Internet Options, browsing history.
If that didn't help much, use Task Manager to find out what is slowing things down. To do that, hold down Ctrl, Alt, and Delete. Click on Task Manager. You should look at Processes and see how much memory is being used. If you have a memory hog that you aren't using, you can temporarily turn it off by clicking on Startup and taking if off the menu. It will still be in your computer and usable, just not running all the time.
Finally, I'd update your 8.0. It's free. Just go to Microsoft's update site. You don't need to upgrade, just update.
I've bought replacements at NAPA. They were the two wire kind that didn't depend on the chassis for a ground. It has been a number of years, but I remember the cost was very modest and nothing to loose sleep over. The LED's are a little more expensive.
If you have a shop vacuum, try blowing air down the vent. The pressure shouldn't hurt anything and if the problem is in the vent to the roof, it might clear it out. (You have a vent to allow air to escape from the tank so water/waste will flow in.) A blocked vent from a bird's nest can cause your shower and kitchen sinks to drain very slow. Ditto with the toilet drain.
We tow a Hummer H3 since it has a strong frame, plenty of ground clearance, and easy to put into towing mode. (Just push a button to disconnect the drive train.) Further, it is a nice daily driver since it is comfortable and rides well. I would assume the Jeep would be similar.
Another choice would be the Honda CRV. You'll see a lot of those being towed. The CRV makes for a nice primary car. The Saturns use to be towable, but not all.