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HWH level out plastic slide parts replacing
Has anyone replaced the plastic slide "bearings" on their HWH 625 level out slides?
The ones I need to replace are the ones that ride up the slope to store the slide floor above the coach floor. I just can't see how to get the old one out and a new one in.
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Gator48
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06/08/13 04:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Coolant tank for Allegro bus
If you are on a Freightliner chassis. Go ahead and get their replacement tank, It is steel and is well made for the $130.00. I don't think they even stock the old plastic "football" tank anymore.
I did mine and it took the better part of a day, and I ended up extending one hose as it was easier than replacing the whole thing.
I was able to re-use and re-make/configure the existing mounting brackets and hardware.
There is a sight glass on the end of the tank to see the coolant level.
Good luck
Dave
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Gator48
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06/07/13 09:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Slide won't come in-help
You have the HWH system, and there is a manual retract process.
http://www.hwhcorp.com/mp349558.pdf
Here is the complete list
http://www.hwhcorp.com/manretract3.html
Under the second step you will find the pump and solenoids. I think the passenger side front is the one closest to the door. On the end facing the rear there is a 1/4" release valve, open it about 2 and 1/2 turns and the room may start in on it's own. some times you can push it in by hand. If not follow the instructions in the above links.
After it's in be sure to close up the valve.
Good luck and let us know if you get it.
Dave
Go
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Gator48
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06/07/13 08:59pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: FMCA Michelin/local addons
Thanks for the input. I felt the $100 a tire was pretty high. There is another Michelin dealer in Gainesville I will give them a call also.
Dave
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Gator48
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05/29/13 07:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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FMCA Michelin/local addons
We are coming up on new tires in July. We will be using the FMCA Michelin program. I have a question regarding the add on costs and your thoughts.
The Michelin dealer has 2 options
1. "Match Balancing" where the tires are matched to the rims and locations, balanced, and high spots shaved off to achieve the best ride. This is $100.00 per tire.
2. Regular mounting and balancing for $64.00 each including valve stems. At $3566.00 inc taxes for 6 tires I shudder at an additional $600.00 on top of that.
What do you all think? Is the "Match Balancing" hocus pocus?
Dave
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Gator48
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05/29/13 10:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Pulling my hair out talking to India!!!!!!!
Something I didn't see mentioned here is how the TV is set up to select channels. Most TVs have a setup menu where the user can select either normal OTA channels or cable and then do an automatic channel scan.
Look on your remote for the menu button then look for setup or channels or channel setup. You will need to select "cable" in order to get the Comcast channels over the cable connection.
Also, the cable may indeed go through a selector switch box and if this is the case you will need to change the button to the cable the position BEFORE you run the cable setup on the TV.
Let us know if it works
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Gator48
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05/19/13 03:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: A different residential refer question
Good news so far thanks everyone.
On our coach, the Samsung RF197 will practically slide right. Just need to remove the pots and pans drawer below the Norcold.
My plan is to also use the existing inverter and batteries. I was mostly concerned about the long term rocking and rolling on the compressor.
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Gator48
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05/07/13 07:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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A different residential refer question
We are continuing the research towards the eventual Norcold change out.
My questions for those who have made the change, or purchased new with a residential refer are.
How are they holding up? Would you do it again? Is the Samsung 197 about the only choice or are there others. They are obviously not built for the rough service seen on our RVs.
Lets hear what you have to say
Dave
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Gator48
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05/07/13 03:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: See ya Snow Birds-hello Love Bugs
As a Florida resident we have to deal with the buggers twice a year. We just discovered a literal "miracle solution" though.
Hose off what you can of the bodies and then bunch up a couple of regular dryer sheets and get them wet. You can then just rub the bug remains off with the sheets. Use them on the windshield, mirrors and the body panels.
It even works on the dried ones, but it's better to soak them a little first.
Be sure to hose off the bug/dryer sheet residue though because when it dries it looks bad.
I have found a couple of sheets will fit onto a Swifter floor cleaning body, but the handle isn't made for a lot of rough duty. I may try to adapt the head portion to a stronger handle.
Headed to Ft Wilderness next week and the coach will be a mess.
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Gator48
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05/06/13 04:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water pump cycles on
Ok all....lots to look at.
The fridge is off so not the ice maker
I will start checking more around the "water bay" for any leaks.
Several mentioned the water heater....I remembered seeing a dribble from the over pressure valve, but had forgotten it until now. That is first on the list today.
Thanks all,
Dave
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Gator48
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04/17/13 09:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Water pump cycles on
2006 Itasca Horizon.
Recently the water pump has started cycling for about a second and a half every 30 minutes or so. Apparently it is sensing a slight drop in pressure or something. I have looked everywhere for a leak and can't find anything. Anyone else had this issue?
Thanks,
Dave
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Gator48
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04/16/13 07:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Backwards leveling controller
Sorry I omitted this, it's an HWH system.
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Gator48
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03/23/13 03:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Backwards leveling controller
2006 Itasca Horizon
The controller for the levelers is backwards. The up/down buttons on the right side of the display control the left side jacks and the left side buttons control the right side jacks.
The front and rear are good. Needless to say "automatic" function is a trip!
If the right side is low the left side jacks go down first and ....Well it's kind of pucker up time as you feel like you are going to tip over.
I can stop it, and I have labled the buttons so I can level it manually but I really need to fix it.
Any ideas how??
Thanks
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Gator48
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03/22/13 07:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
I don't want to one of those posters who ask a question and never respond back.
So here goes. To all that responded thanks for all the great info. I ordered the new tie rod ends from my local Freightliner dealer at right at $70.00 apiece. At first I felt stumped as I could not remove the first old one. 1 day down. 2nd day I dug out an old pickle fork and ground out the center for the larger diameter tie rods. A half dozen whacks with a 5 pound sledge and it was loose. Only 3 more to go. By the end of the day I had both tie rods out, all 4 ends replaced, and back in. Tomorrow I need to go to the auto parts store to get the correct impact socket to tighten them up.
I was able to measure the exact overall length of the old assemblies and re assembled them to the same measurements. Next week its off to the dealer to have the alignment checked and adjusted if needed. My total cost including the alignment will be a tick over $500.00.
The estimates to have the work done ran from $875.00 to over $1200.00.
I am sore but satisfied.
Dave
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Gator48
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03/21/13 06:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: It is all ours!
We just got our title form the Credit union. Big tax bullet to bite in the form of income taxes on the tax deferred savings we used. It was well worth it to have it paid off.
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Gator48
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02/16/13 05:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Rvibrake system for toads
+ a million on the Ready Brake!!!
Works every time and its a no brainer to install, hitch up and disconnect. The little dash display is the hardest part as it requires a single wire to be run from the hitch to the dashboard.
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Gator48
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02/11/13 11:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
Ivylog
The front end is the ZF independent front suspension so it's only the 4 ends to do and the boots are not replaceable.
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Gator48
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02/11/13 11:10am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
Matt Colie
I am not the original owner. I called Freightliner to get the part numbers and he told me my VIN # did not show up as included in the tie rod end recall. He did say that the original owner had complied with the steering gear recall so that was good to know.
Freightliner said the TRE recall ended in October 2010. After that date it became the owners cost to bear.
I didn't mention this, but the reason I was checking underneath is I am chasing a wandering front end.
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Gator48
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02/11/13 11:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
How hard is it to pop the ends loose from the spindles?
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Gator48
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02/11/13 08:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Freightliner tie rod ends replacement
We own a 2006 Itasca Horizon with 26,000 miles on it. While under it this weekend I noticed all 4 tie rod end boots were gone or ripped open. Some research found there was a recall to replace them, but that ended in 2007.
My question for the amassed wisdom here is, has anyone on here replaced them themselves? Where did you purchase the ends, and how hard was it to replace them? The coach has the IFS not sure if it's the ZF or Neway suspension.
Is it safe to assume that if I measure the tie rods from center to center then take them apart replacing the new ones to the same measurement that the end result will be ok? Or, am I also looking at an alignment job too?
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Gator48
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02/11/13 07:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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