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Forum
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RE: rv cover
Here is a recent posting on a similar question - Super C RV Covers.
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Gene in NE
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05/13/13 08:32pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Inspection Recommendations when picking up a new motorhome
Looking for your advise as were new to the RV world and have purchased a new Greyhawk Motorhome. Any recommendations if you were us on items we should ask or have them go over with us at the time we pick up the MH.....Congratulations! Here is a fairly easy to follow PDI even though it is for a trailer. Checklist/DPI_V113.2 PDF. Just so you know, very few new owners do all of this even though they should.
As "NoRoomService" suggests, do try to find a campground very close to your pickup point. Spend the night getting to know your unit and if something does not work right or you were not instructed adequately, the drive to the dealership is right next door. ;)
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Gene in NE
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05/13/13 08:21pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Can I Pick Your Brains About Smaller Class C's?
ol' yeller - Keep looking and hope that one of the readers come up with one you like. Here is one that comes very close to your desires except possibly price. Fairly new unit and not too many used ones out there. Leisure Travel Van (LTV) Unity.
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Gene in NE
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05/12/13 10:08pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: tow dolly troubles?
Badlybent - Would it be possible to take off the fenders of the tow dolly? Or....maybe make some selective cutting of the tow dolly fenders to no longer be a problem.
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Gene in NE
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05/02/13 09:53pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Thinking
64thunderbolt -
Larger Class C': Fresh/gray/black
Gulfstream Endura 36' 60/52/52 with 80 gallon fuel tank
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Gene in NE
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05/01/13 07:46pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: noisy water pump
I was going to put in an accumulator tank, but could not figure out an easy way to keep from filling the tank with RV antifreeze when winterizing.When there is no water pressure, the tank is empty, regardless if orientation because it has a rubber bladder (like an inner tube) that remains pressurized....Good answer Ron. Never gave it that much thought. I was associating the accumulator tank as being the same as the water heater. I forgot that after you pump the pink stuff in the pipes, if you open any one of the faucets the bladder will empty the tank for you.
zac451 - I had thought about a shut-off valve on the inlet of the tank, but space would start being a problem. Ron's answer enlightened me that the tank will not take on the pink stuff unless I run the pump for an extended time with all the faucets closed. I get by with about 1 gallon of pink stuff the way I have been doing it - would have to remember when the last faucet is running pink, shut off the pump. :B
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Gene in NE
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04/28/13 08:44pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: noisy water pump
zac451 - I can get to my pump fairly easily. It is under the dinette seat. I turned on the pump and opened one of the faucets to a fast drip. Then got close to the pump to see where the noise was coming from. Most of it was from the flexible "pex" tubing vibrating against the wall of the RV. Some small bubble blister packing wrapped in the correct place made it reasonably quiet.
I was going to put in an accumulator tank, but could not figure out an easy way to keep from filling the tank with RV antifreeze when winterizing.
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Gene in NE
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04/27/13 09:20pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: furnace help?
A little more information would be helpful. Not everyone knows the type of furnace that the '99 Xplorer uses.
If you have recently done a fill of the propane tank, the attendant would have shut off the propane to the RV. They do that to ensure all pilot lights are out. Did you turn on the propane valve? Have you tried lighting the stove? Some thermostats have an Air-Off-Furnace switch, is it to furnace? Does the furnace fan start up?
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Gene in NE
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04/27/13 07:51pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: B+ motorhomes
2wheelluge - Have you considered pulling a very lightweight trailer like this Sports Rig. Here is a picture of one -
http://www.sportsrig.com/images/micro-trailer.jpg width=500
They are a little pricey, but you get most of your money back if you decide to sell a used one. ;)
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Gene in NE
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04/22/13 09:34pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 1996 Winnebago Rialta
Neverhappy - Is that the only thing you found undesirable is the power? Cause my wife and I both test drove a Rialta before we bought our current unit. We loved the driving. Drove about like a minivan. It may have had the V6. We decided on buying our new RV versus the 2 year old Rialta for the same money.
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Gene in NE
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04/20/13 05:52pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: B+ motorhomes
2wheelluge - Sounds to me like "Orion_42" answered your question. Your model will be different than mine, but my model also has one of the cables go to the external co-ax connection for a possible campground signal and the other goes to the roof antennae. Both are connected at a "Y" connector (probably called a splitter) that then goes to the signal booster. From the signal booster there is a co-ax feed to the TV. If I connect to a campground signal, I have to shut off the sigmal booster.
My unit came from the factory with a 19" analog TV and I was able to remove the retaining wood block and roll-up door to remove the TV. I then inserted a false floor (1/2" plywood) including a mounted swivel. Then used the wood block to hold the false floor in place. I then fit a 19" flat panel digital television to the swivel mount.
Swivel mount is something like this, but it is mounted on my false floor and not to the wall -
http://i.walmartimages.com/i/mp/MP/10/00/51/85/MP10005185907_P255045_180X180.jpg width=350
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Gene in NE
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04/19/13 03:11pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Window AC for B Van
Clicky Thingy
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Gene in NE
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04/18/13 02:07pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Super C RV Covers
T3FITZ - Before you spend that kind of money, I would like to share my experience.
I owned a Class A and had nowhere to store it for the first winter. I bought a Tyvek cover that cost around $400. I wrestled the cover the first year and in the spring, when I took it off, I never used it again. Found indoor storage about 60 miles away.
The cover was heavy to lug up the rear ladder one handed. Even tried climbing the rear ladder with a rope and then drag the cover up from the ground by pulling it onto the roof. Then you gingerly carry this rather heavy cover around the vents, the A/C, the antennae, and the fantastic fan vent cover. Then when you are on the front edge of the RV, try to spread the correct end of the cover and lower it down the front. Now slowly spread the cover and work your way to the rear. Then you see that it needs a little re-arranging and try walking on the topside of the cover and not step on some of the items sticking up.
Finally, now at the edge of the rear, slowly climb down the ladder and spread the cover down over the rear all the way to the ground. The whole time climbing down the ladder you are under the cover and can see nothing.
During the winter, the wind, the rain, the snow wanted to get under the cover and lift it off like a hot air balloon. I used heavy stretchy rubber cords to hold it from flying off. It wore the paint off the RV in a couple places.
Next spring, I had to climb up the rear ladder while under the canvas and at the same time trying to pull the cover up to the roof. Now slowly rolling and tumbling the cover forward avoiding all the roof protrusions until you are at the front. Breathing a sigh of relief as you toss it to the ground.
A cover for a Class A might work for your Chevy Kodiak Class C. Having a couple other helper people might have made it a fair fight.
When I sold the RV, the cover went with it free. ;)
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Gene in NE
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04/18/13 12:40pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Levelers? Will You Share Your Pictures of Your Set-Up
Camco tri-leveler blocks Clicky to Cabela's great idea PhilR..... I have never seen those before... HmmmmmmAdded Clicky.
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Gene in NE
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04/16/13 08:01pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: FEMALE Solo Musician - ??? on Class B Van for FULL TIME?
If I DONT use the water systems in cold weather while touring (use showers at gigs and eat/restrooms out) is it then ok in the winter?As "NMace" states if you winterize properly, it should not be a problem. However, should you be traveling from freezing to moderate temperature locations and back again, the winterize/dewinterize could turn into quite a hassle.
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Gene in NE
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04/16/13 06:38pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Generator use question.
I'm not sure what the debate is about. We agree transfer switches can fail.
There is never a need to be plugged into the pedestal and run the generator at the same time. Why take a chance? Unplugging from the pedestal is a foolproof solution.Some leave their motorhome plugged in 24-7 to keep the coach batteries charged. They do need to exercise the generator - recommended 1-2 hours per month. That could be the reason for the question. :)
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Gene in NE
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04/14/13 08:50pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Motorcycle receiver hitch rack
I am anxious to get a m/c carrier for our C, but too cheap to spend the money. I've been browsing Craigslist for a used one and will find the right deal soon! I would even consider one of the two-bike carriers. On a trip into town I met a 3/4-ton pickup with a rear mounted rack and another on a front-mount receiver.Suggest you read and understand the see-saw effect of adding weight on the back of a vehicle. The 3/4 ton pickup does not have much distance between that rear carrier and the rear axle. Some motorhomes have a much longer distance. The only reason I mentioned this again is because you were considering a "two-bike" carrier. That puts the load even further behind the rear axle. :W
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Gene in NE
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04/14/13 08:07pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Motorcycle receiver hitch rack
truepath - The calculations are theoretical and meant to provide you with an approximation of what adding extra weight in a carrier can do. Since you have vehicle weights and have been hauling the Yamaha, the calculations are mute - you can get the actual before and after loading the Yamaha. The Class B vans do not normally have as large a rear overhang so you may not get as much of a see-saw effect.
cbigham - You are very correct that the dynamic weight will change as you travel, as you pointed out, depending on the size of the bump. The calculation is for static weight. I don't know this for a fact, but suspect that when the receiver manufacturer determined you could carry a hitch weight of 500 lbs; they allowed for the increase in dynamics with their design. Typically, an engineer designs with a safety factor included. In this case, it could include the variations due to bumps, sudden stops, etc.
The Class C motorhomes are more affected by weight additions in carriers. They have a larger overhang and the coach constructor puts fresh and waste water tanks behind the axle. The Ford's especially seem to have handling issues when the front axle no longer carries 32-35% of the total weight.
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Gene in NE
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04/12/13 02:43pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Motorcycle receiver hitch rack
truepath and GENECOP - Both of you should, if you have not already done so get a weight of the RV axles before and after loading the motorcycle. The door post should provide the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the front and the rear. Too much weight added can have an undesireable handling problem.
There is such a thing called the see-saw effect of hanging something behind the rear axle.
First know the capacity of the receiver hitch - usually 350 or 500 lbs. Second know the weight of your small motorcycle and then add the weight of the carrier for the motorcycle.
Then measure the distance from the front axle to the rear axle. Then measure the distance from the rear axle to the center of your motorcycle carrier. Now multiply the weight of the motorcycle plus the carrier (in lbs) by the distance behind the rear axle (in feet). Divide this answer by the distance between the axles (in feet). This is the amount you are lifting off the front axle (the see saw effect).
If for example:
1. motorcycle weighs 250 lbs
2. carrier weighs 75 lbs
3. motorcycle carrier is 8 feet behind the rear axle
4. wheelbase is 12 feet.
(250+75=325 x 8 feet = 2,600 divide by 12 = 217 lbs). In this example the motorcycle and carrier is adding 542 lbs to the rear axle and the front axle would be 217 lbs lighter.
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Gene in NE
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04/10/13 10:38pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Engine choices in a class C
KD4UPL - As has been said, the Ford's are more available and the V-10 is just as or more than powerful enough. However, if you are considering used, be careful of the Consumer Affairs Spark Plug issue, the extra heat in the dog-house, and the possible handling problems. The Chevy's do not seem to have any of those problems.
My brother-in-law owned a 2005 Gulf-Stream Endura w/duramax diesel. I got a chance to drive it about 400 miles. Loved every minute - handling, sound, power, construction, floorplan etc. He did have to have some floor support added near the bathroom (above the rear axle). Otherwise a wonderful change from his Ford F350 dually towing a fifth wheel. His receiver hitch was designed to pull 10,000 lb trailers.
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Gene in NE
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04/07/13 09:00pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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