Winnibago, Journey 2002, 34' Cummins ISB 275hp, Allison 2000, Freightliner Chassis.
While traveling thru Delaware in November, as I pulled up to a traffic light the engine stumbled and quit. The normal dash lights were all out, nothing associated with the chassis seemed to have power. The ignition key, and all gauges dead. After being towed off the road to a rest area, I began trying to determine the cause of the situation. First I checked the battery's both house and chassis. Both battery' banks we're showing more than 12.6 volts. Checked for loose cables or any obvious problems. Tried the auxiliary start relay to see if that would power the starter, no such luck. Checked the front automotive circuit breakers and fuzes, and the buss that powers them, no power?
Called the Freightliner 24/7 Customer Service (800) 385-4357, and described my problem. Much to my surprise the Freightliner tech was extremely knowledgeable. He walked me through the diagnostics and we determined that the culprit had to be the main chassis battery 135 Amp circuit breaker. The FL tech described in detail exactly where the breaker was located and how to bypass it to determine if it was bad. The breaker is located on the drivers side behind the rear wheel attached to a flange below the rail. Not to be confused with a similar breaker assembly on the passenger side in the same location which is for the engine intake air starting aide. The test of the breaker revealed it was ok, but in the process I noticed that one of the. Wires attached to it seemed to be loose and arked as I moved it around. Simultaneously a relay chattered and the dash powered up. I cleaned and tightened the connections, the relay held and everything powered up. Engine started ect.
The location of both of these breakers is below the rails and may be in or near the road debris stream when the vehicle is moving. It is likely that water/moisture is sprayed on these assemblies when driving in the rain. Put them on you check list. Also recommend that you carry a spare, as the are not found in local auto stores. You will have to get them from FL parts. According to FL to get going until you can replace the part, you can simply disconnect the battery and connect both circuit breaker leads together on one terminal reconnect the battery as a temporary measure without harm.
Freightliner has a 24/7 day customer service number with tech's on duty that will walk you through your problem. This free service for FL owners is top shelf, all you need is your VIN# . These guys really know their stuff and are extremely helpful. 800-385-4357
WOW, After reading all the complaints about Remco Driveshaft disconnects, I wonder if any of them actually own one!
I owned one and it sucked. mine was installed by a drive shaft balancer/expert installer.
As a clarification, the original designer and manufacturer Remco, sold the business to a outfit who had some or all of the components made offshore. They ran into major problems and the disconnect part of the business was bought back and redesigned and improved. I am not possitive when all this occured, how ever I bought my last one in Jan 2013 and it is very satisfactory in all regards. The one I bought before that was one made by Remco befor the split, it also provided long lasting trouble free service.
If you are having trouble with yours, contact Remco Drive Shaft; 855-447-3626 They stand behind there products.
WOW, After reading all the complaints about Remco Driveshaft disconnects, I wonder if any of them actually own one! I operate a Nisson Xterra 2012 4X4, Auto, with a Remco disconnect, Roadmaster base plate, and Falcon2 towbar. This is the third Remco I have owned covering a period of twenty years of pulling toads. I noticed that most of the negative comments obviously were either improperly installed disconnects and/or the owner did not follow Remcos instruction as to how to engage or disengage unit.
The problems most people have with disconnects relates to DIY and/or incompetant installers. The installer must have a suitable high speed lathe capable of welding and/or balancing the modified driveshaft. To modify a drive shaft without balancing is a sure way to have problems. In addition most late model vehicles require shortning and welding of the shaft, which requires special equipment and traing. In most cases this is not simply a bolt on install as indicated by RV dealers. Most installers such as Camper's World and the typical RV dealer do not have lathes in their shops.
Solution: Insure the install is done by a experianced driveshaft machine shop that has performed this modification previously and has been trained by Remco or others.
Solution 2: Proper engagement of a correctly installed and maintained unit is smooth and precise, if done as directed by starting in neutral and engageing the disconnect similtaniously. If grease or other wet lubricants are not used in accordance with recommendations by Remco, the accumulation of dirt and grime on the disconnect is minimal and only requires cleaning with high pressure water spray and WD-40 annually or more often if excessive mud has accumulated. My experiance is that I clean the unit with a hose when cleaning car at car wash, semi-annually apply WD-40. Recently i switched to a dry lubricant spray formulated for RV slides sold by Campers world. This product works better than WD-40 because it is a dry lubricant, a rust preventative, and does not attract dust, dirt and grime.
During operation a properly installed and balanced driveshaft disconnect does not make any noise or vibration what-so-ever. The only indication of it's presence is the control knob on the floor under the seat. These units have been used by myself and others for decades of trouble free four down towing.
I am a high mileage RV'er towing my toad more than 20K a year. For me the Remco disconnect has enabled me to tow the vehicle I prefer without other consideration. I have had nothing but excellant performance from this product and would recommend this product to anyone.
I am not employed by or have no interest in Remco or and similar products, retailers, or installers.
:o Changed the oil and filter on my Onan Mobile Genset HGJAB (MARQUIS) , 6500 kw (333 hours) high pressure propane fueled. Ran like a bandit one hour before oil change, now the darn thing wont start at all? Two thirds tank of LPN.
To change oil I opened the access panel, opened the LPG oil drain ****, opened the engine oil **** drained oil. CLOSED both petcocks.
Removed and replaced the oil filter with new one. Filled the filter core with oil before installing, refilled with 15W-40 DELO and checked the oil level.
Oil level 1/3 up the stick from add. Not overfilled, not underfilled. Tried to crank it up, turns over fast, but non hits or misfires, just would not start, smelled fuel, no ignition?, no fuel?
What did I do wrong??? HELP, HELP, HELP!! :h