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 > Your search for posts made by 'Gypsy1' found 3 matches.

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RE: converter tow dolly

Thanks for the Hitch Helper lead. You put me right on it. I just got ofF the phone with a fellow who is the current owner of the "Hitch Helper" patent and operates the company. They are very much still in business and attend many RV and boat shows around the country. They have operations in Florida and Indiana. If you need one, call Steve at 813-800-4357. I also noticed that they have some on ebay auction, search "hitch helper". THANKS AGAIN FOR THE INFO.
Gypsy1 08/27/14 01:13pm Towing
converter tow dolly

I want to haul a large trailer with my class a motorhome. my problem is excessive tongue weight. I recently saw a dolly and trailer combination in North Florida on the interstate. It was designed to reduce tongue weight on motor home. Looked commercially made with single axle. Anyone out there ever seen such a device for RV's ? Need to find manufacturer and/or distributers for this dolly. No luck thus far.
Gypsy1 08/27/14 09:53am Towing
RE: Breakdown Information

Winnibago, Journey 2002, 34' Cummins ISB 275hp, Allison 2000, Freightliner Chassis. While traveling thru Delaware in November, as I pulled up to a traffic light the engine stumbled and quit. The normal dash lights were all out, nothing associated with the chassis seemed to have power. The ignition key, and all gauges dead. After being towed off the road to a rest area, I began trying to determine the cause of the situation. First I checked the battery's both house and chassis. Both battery' banks we're showing more than 12.6 volts. Checked for loose cables or any obvious problems. Tried the auxiliary start relay to see if that would power the starter, no such luck. Checked the front automotive circuit breakers and fuzes, and the buss that powers them, no power? Called the Freightliner 24/7 Customer Service (800) 385-4357, and described my problem. Much to my surprise the Freightliner tech was extremely knowledgeable. He walked me through the diagnostics and we determined that the culprit had to be the main chassis battery 135 Amp circuit breaker. The FL tech described in detail exactly where the breaker was located and how to bypass it to determine if it was bad. The breaker is located on the drivers side behind the rear wheel attached to a flange below the rail. Not to be confused with a similar breaker assembly on the passenger side in the same location which is for the engine intake air starting aide. The test of the breaker revealed it was ok, but in the process I noticed that one of the. Wires attached to it seemed to be loose and arked as I moved it around. Simultaneously a relay chattered and the dash powered up. I cleaned and tightened the connections, the relay held and everything powered up. Engine started ect. The location of both of these breakers is below the rails and may be in or near the road debris stream when the vehicle is moving. It is likely that water/moisture is sprayed on these assemblies when driving in the rain. Put them on you check list. Also recommend that you carry a spare, as the are not found in local auto stores. You will have to get them from FL parts. According to FL to get going until you can replace the part, you can simply disconnect the battery and connect both circuit breaker leads together on one terminal reconnect the battery as a temporary measure without harm.
Gypsy1 12/26/13 12:23pm Class A Motorhomes
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