UPDATE: Remco is back in the driveshaft disconnect business and is shipping the assemblies and parts. Use the dealer locator on the Remco disconnect page for a dealer/installer near you!
Had a disconnect installed on my brand new Nissan xterra 2012 last week at Drive Shaft Services in Marietta GA. They are "Drive shaft Specialists" , highly recommend these guys. Very professional, and well equipped with high speed laths and welding, these guys know there business.. My installation went like a breeze, in at 10am out at noon. Cost was below average.
One very important fact that i learned, I would strongly advise anyone wanting to get a disconnect installed, do not use a RV dealer or other automotive shops that do not have the capability to cut, weld and high speed balance the driveshaft in house.
Most installers don't have the capacity to modify the driveshaft as is often required, outfits like Campers World and other RV facilities must job out the driveline modification and may tie you up for days. John or Russell at Drive Shaft Specialties are straight shooters that will give you good info and great work. 770-427-4898
I am not connected with DSS in anyway not compensated by them. Just a happy customer!:)
I think that the real deal here is that the typical diesel motor home owner today is not the kind of guy that will get under the tree in the back yard and yank filters, drain oil, and such to maintain his coach. I addition diesels are a little more complex, bigger and more of it, than a gas engine. People are a little more intimidated by the diesel as opposed to gas engines. Parts and lubricants both in cost and by volume are inherently more expensive for the diesel.
All of which tends to make folks drive their coach to the dealer for service as opposed to doing it themselves. Of course the dealer is substantially more expensive than the guy who does his own in the back yard.
But if all things were equal, diesel is cheaper to maintain per mile than gas, and we all know they are cheaper to operate by the mile as well.
Restoring a real nice 88 Holiday Ramble Cf-34 Class A, on P-30 chevy chassis. Need to rewire, re-manufacture or replace the OEM tank monitor system. Need a wiring diagram or schematic of how this device works. The OEM unit was manufactured by Larson Manufacturing in Fullerton CA. When last I inquired of them, they were less than helpful.
This is what it looks like.
NEED ANY INFORMATION AVAILABLE ABOUT THIS TANK MONITOR SYSTEM!!!
If your Emerald III is like mine, there should be two small black plastic toggle-type switches on the side of the control box. They are the genset breakers. They are a little easy to miss if you have never looked for them before.
You are absolutely right, I had seen those two toggles when I changed out the fuel pump some time ago, but completely forgot they were there. Flipped one breaker that was down and "let there be light" . My kids tell me im''m getting too old to motor home around! I quess I just forgot they were there. I'll quit this lifestyle when they bury me in it!
Ok, I hear two different people say to reset breakers! As I mentioned I already reset the breakers at the coach control box. No luck. No current across transfer switch!
If the Emeral III has breakers on the genset, I have not been able to locate them.
Any more suggestions?
Working the Onan Emerald III 65K during high heat here 95+- run for a while great with 20 amp load. Increased the load to about 30 amps and within 10 min. the generator quit making current. The motor continued no usual noise ect.
I checked the fuse in the holder on the front, it looked ok. Double checked it after cool down and restart, no current. Checked all circuit breakers in unit all ok. Switched to shoreline, every thing worked as normal. Can't figure it out, is there another circuit breaker on generator itself? None on chassis?
Any help would be appreciated!
Do I really need a brake device in the toad??? I have the Mor-Ryde with tag axle both axles have brakes?You probably should, but technically may not legally required. If you want to know the real legal requirement, you need to know what your actual coach weight is, and then subtract that from the weight rating. If you have reserve, you can subtract that from your toad weight, to know if you exceed the maximum braking rating for the motorhome. In other words, your brakes on your motorhome have a specific weight rating. You need to know that the total weight of your motorhome plus your toad does not exceed the rating of your brakes.
BUT here is the real deal. Look up Ready Brake from Night Shift Auto. They sell a combination tow bar and braking system that is cheaper than some tow bars. It is an effective dependable system. There are many satisfied users on RV net who have this system including myself (although I have the older system). The whole setup including brakes should be less than a grand.
As far as towing, the 454 should be OK in most circumstances at near sea level. I would say that you will be on the very bottom of exceptable. If you don't want at the bottom of exceptable, or plan to drive mountains a lot, then look at dropping Thoreleys and straight through Magnaflows on it. That will wake things up a bit, and greatly improve drivability. Back when I was running a carb 454, I towed a Cherokee at 3100 lbs. It was pretty much OK. But as we all know, you can never have too much power.
Ok, what are Thoeleys and Magnaflows?
You should be good to go MH wise. You may want to insure you have fresh ATF in the transmission. It will work it a bit harder but no issue if it is healthy. Do you have a transmission temp gauge and good transmission cooling system?
10-4 on the tranny temp gauge. Also have a external cooler and spin-on oil filter for the tranny. seems to stay well below 200 degrees normally. In traffic or pulling long hills I will get to 215 and I turn on a auxiliary fan for the tranny cooler, brings it right down.
Have a Holiday Rambler Imperial class A P30 Chev chassis, with standard 454 CI gasser and 450 auto, duals, four barrel carb.
Want to tow a Honda toad. Concerned about how the 454 would do towing a vehicle four down weighing a estimated 2800#. I'm sure it will effect my fuel economy and performance. Need so advise from some of you old school folks that may have had experiance towing with this type of rigg. Can this rigg handle the load, not considering the hitch, the hitch is rated at two tons. Any experiance you can share would be appreciated.