RE: WH on elc or gas????
Nobody can say for certain. Generally gas is a more efficient heater, but electric rates vary greatly depending on location. Gas varies as well, but I don't think so much as electric.
Many seasonal sites have a propane delivery truck that comes around and does refills.
RE: Converter upgrade question
.
Do keep in mind the factory 40A unit and next size up 45A unit is the MAX output of the each unit. If all 12V items are ON are under 40 Amp "load", then full benefits of next higher size Convertor will never be used. I went next size up (40 to 45 Amp) because I like running things below 80% load. Thus, having 20% comfort buffer "when" (and only "when") all 12V consumption items are ON at the same time.
Long mumblings short... If no additional 12V items (like 12V power jack) are installed, the MAX Amp power output of next large size convertor won't be used. Thus, no need for a thicker wire that needs to support 45A load...
Hope this helps..This is not always the case.
If you boondock, and run the battery low, then charge it via generator or shore power....It will likely see the full output.
If Factory Convertor is 40 Amp and one replaces with "next size up" 45 Amp and NO additional 12V items are added to factory configuration, please explain how a 45 Amp replacement would need to "delivery" more then 40 Amps. If needing to delivery more than 40 Amps (which is factory configuration), it would have over stressed the factory 40 amp converter multiple times.
Since I don't understand your statement (of needing more than factory), please explain.
It is actually very simple. Forget about the 12v draw of the lights etc. as that is not the problem. As you state, those loads can only draw so much.
The battery or batteries can draw as much as the convertor can produce, if they are at a low state of charge.. Now in this case the difference is only 5 amps, so it will likely not make any difference in the wire size.....But if going to a much larger convertor, the wire gauge MUST be large enough to handle the full output of the convertor.
In other words, the factory 40 amp convertor is only capable of putting out 40 amps, no matter how low the battery is. But a larger convertor WILL put out more amps when the battery is low.
RE: Dexter Axle upgrade 3500 to 5200
I love my Never Lube system. No annual maintenance and the cost/hassle associated with that. The ease of checking the brakes without messing with the bearings, and the lower risk of improper greasing adjusting causing problems such as grease on the brakes, or premature bearing failure.
If one decides to go with prevenative bearing replacement at 5 years, I believe that the math works out favorably cost wise as well.
I intend to look into this when 5 years rolls around, and see if I can as I suspect replace a bearing without a press. I have done quite a bit of this sort of thing in the past, so it may be doable.
If it can, then I will just carry extras with me in the unlikely event of a on the road failure.... I have the 5200# axles which use the same bearing size as the 6000#s, just with 5200# springs. This gives me some extra capacity bearing wise.
RE: Converter upgrade question
.
Do keep in mind the factory 40A unit and next size up 45A unit is the MAX output of the each unit. If all 12V items are ON are under 40 Amp "load", then full benefits of next higher size Convertor will never be used. I went next size up (40 to 45 Amp) because I like running things below 80% load. Thus, having 20% comfort buffer "when" (and only "when") all 12V consumption items are ON at the same time.
Long mumblings short... If no additional 12V items (like 12V power jack) are installed, the MAX Amp power output of next large size convertor won't be used. Thus, no need for a thicker wire that needs to support 45A load...
Hope this helps..This is not always the case.
If you boondock, and run the battery low, then charge it via generator or shore power....It will likely see the full output.
RE: S T tires
Good, well sounding article full of a lack of real knowledge as to why a tire weighs what it does… tire weight alone isn’t a measure of quality…
Tire weight is part bulk, and part material selection and or processes used… to many variables to equate weight alone as evidence of quality…
Recipes of chemical or rubber compounding are one of the most closely guarded secrets of the tire industry…
cap ply’s might be made from single yarn or twisted cords… the single yarns can be cheaper, lighter, and thinner, but they can also be higher quality, improve heat dissipation, and reduce belt edge separation…
even tires from the same mfg. might have different LT model tires of different weights even in the same size and LR…
Quality can be made with lighter or heavier components, lighter or heavier compounds, and lighter or heavier cords or belts… one might be built with a heavier bead area and another with a heavier tread area…
For example from the 2012 Carlisle catalog to keep it apples to apples, that list the radial trail RH 205x75x14 LR C with a load rating of 1760 listed at 25.9 pounds…
Yet the Carlisle 215x75x14 LR C with a load rating of 1870 listed at 25.8 pounds… how is it that the tire with the higher load capacity has a lower weight…
The 225x75x15 LR C is bigger and weighs more than the 205x75x15 LR D but both have the same rated carrying capacity… citing and using weight as a leading indicator is misleading at best…
We outsiders don’t have enough information to know or say what the weight alone means…
All we can do is ask questions as to why is one tire heavier and what is the construction differences accounting for the differences…It's not apples to apples. One tire is larger and holds more air. Air is what supports the load. Even so, it is a very small difference. Not 10-20-30# differences between some of the best LT tires and their ST cousins.
I suppose that a tire with high tech expensive materials such as Kevlar could be a lot lighter and stronger than a much heavier tire using cheaper materials.
I have never seen such a ST tire...Have you?
The point of the OP and the original author was to offer weight as a leading indicator of quality when choosing tires, and that weight equals and guarantees the reserve capacity in the tire…
MY POINT AND MY ONLY POINT !!!
WEIGHT ALONE DOESN’T EQUATE TO QUALITY or anything else… it only gives reason to question…
As shown in the same brand and type (apples to apples) comparison…
So let us compare the 2 tires the author didn’t rule out to make his comparisons with the GY ST tire…
They are the BFG Commercial TA LT235/85R16 LRE(rated to 3042lbs) Weight 44.44 and the, and the Uniroyal Laredo HD/H LT235/85R16 LRE(rated to 3042lbs) Weight 44.44…
His intent was to show the superior quality of the LT tires and offered as proof of that quality the weight difference between them and the GY Marathon ST235/80R16 LRE(rated to 3420lbs) Weight 35.4… he leaves no other explanation and wants you to believe weight alone can be relied on as the deciding factor…
Here is the real proof of quality of the tires he mentioned… and the proof that that weight he so praised did nothing to offer a quality built tire…
Michelin North America, Inc. is recalling certain BF Goodrich Commercial T/A A/S LRE and Uniroyal Laredo HD/H LRE tires, sizes LT235/85R16 120 Q and LT245/75R16 120 Q. These tires may develop a separation at the tread/belt edge.
The separation of the tire can cause rapid air loss which could increase the risk of a vehicle crash.Ah yes....But they are being recalled due to a manufacturing error of some sort...Never heard of such a program for ST tires...They must all be made perfect...LOL.
RE: S T tires
Good, well sounding article full of a lack of real knowledge as to why a tire weighs what it does… tire weight alone isn’t a measure of quality…
Tire weight is part bulk, and part material selection and or processes used… to many variables to equate weight alone as evidence of quality…
Recipes of chemical or rubber compounding are one of the most closely guarded secrets of the tire industry…
cap ply’s might be made from single yarn or twisted cords… the single yarns can be cheaper, lighter, and thinner, but they can also be higher quality, improve heat dissipation, and reduce belt edge separation…
even tires from the same mfg. might have different LT model tires of different weights even in the same size and LR…
Quality can be made with lighter or heavier components, lighter or heavier compounds, and lighter or heavier cords or belts… one might be built with a heavier bead area and another with a heavier tread area…
For example from the 2012 Carlisle catalog to keep it apples to apples, that list the radial trail RH 205x75x14 LR C with a load rating of 1760 listed at 25.9 pounds…
Yet the Carlisle 215x75x14 LR C with a load rating of 1870 listed at 25.8 pounds… how is it that the tire with the higher load capacity has a lower weight…
The 225x75x15 LR C is bigger and weighs more than the 205x75x15 LR D but both have the same rated carrying capacity… citing and using weight as a leading indicator is misleading at best…
We outsiders don’t have enough information to know or say what the weight alone means…
All we can do is ask questions as to why is one tire heavier and what is the construction differences accounting for the differences…It's not apples to apples. One tire is larger and holds more air. Air is what supports the load. Even so, it is a very small difference. Not 10-20-30# differences between some of the best LT tires and their ST cousins.
I suppose that a tire with high tech expensive materials such as Kevlar could be a lot lighter and stronger than a much heavier tire using cheaper materials.
I have never seen such a ST tire...Have you?
RE: New record !
This is from the ford 6.0 class action lawsuit...
Speaks volumes about the culture of Ford, at that time. And explains the 6.0s place in diesel history
"We unfortunately exceeded our own cylinder pressure specs in normally
performing engines. We don't want to have our cylinder pressure specs published
or documented by having them subpoenaed or we might face a class action.
When we have a defect, we have to honor our warranty.... I recommend we all
delete these emails.11
25."
RE: New record !
I for one want to hear this stuff.
Why???
Because I own a GM with the same pump, and a similar failure rate.
Not concerned for the present as GM stands behind the warranty. But for the future. I tend to keep my trucks a long time. I want to know about all failures of this pump, to try to get a handle on what could be my future. If enough noise is made, perhaps Ford will start honoring the warranties, and may even extend them. If the later were to happen I am sure GM would follow suit, if they haven't already done so. Or perhaps a recall would happen. Or a realistic fix be found.
So really the Ford fans and GM fans do have a common interest in this.
One thing is certain. Silence on this matter will help no one..
I would ask that the moderators please consider this point of view when closing threads. Perhaps some editing, and warnings would be better for all...And yes I realize that it is more work...And I appreciate your efforts.
RE: S T tires
Well I guess things have changed since I did it. Perhaps the market is meeting a growing demand for better tires on trailers...This is a good thing.
Price wise though, I think it works out about the same for parts.
I paid 40.00 apiece for my 6 lug rims, and I know the drums were less than the rims.
Of course as more of these new rims come on the market, the price will drop.
RE: S T tires
With some searching you CAN find 5 lug 16 inch rims .
Nope. I looked into it. You can have them custom made. IIRC around 220.00 each.
Someone once posted up some links. I forget what the problem was with them, but do remember that they would not work.
Now what CAN probably be done is what I did. Change out the drums for 6 lug ones. MUCH cheaper, and they come with new bearings, so you can do a repack at the same time.
RE: Maxxis Tires - Interesting information?
Reading this thread points out a downside to the Maxxis tires.
Poor availability. Though this tire is pretty much thought to be the best ST tire,,,,, it is not bulletproof. No tire is.
If one should have a mishap on the road requiring a replacement, the odds are not good that a Maxxis will be available when/where you need it.
Post after post on here about people ORDERING their Maxxis tires and having to wait for them.
Not all peoples TTs are easy candidates for the LT tire swap, so for them it's Maxxis and pray for no failures on the road.
For those that have the LT option open to them, it is something to consider.
If discount tire stands behind Maxxis like they did on some tires for my car it won't be much of a problem. Hit a exposed water main cover and blew out one tire, big egg on the other. The town I was in had no direct replacement or a discount tire store. Discount tire offered to either overnight air tires to a dealer near me to install them at discount tires expense, or I could buy brand new tires of the size and speed range needed, have them installed and when I returned they would cut me a check on the spot for the tires I bought and then replace them with the tires I previously had.
I chose "buy new ones" since I needed to leave town that day. When I returned, I drove to discount tire, they gave me a check for the tires, mounting and balancing (>$500) and installed the new tires. Didn't even need the failed tires or even pictures for the replacement.
So if one of my maxxis pops, I know what to do, and know I won't be stuck with another brand tire permanently if I need to just buy another tire to get us home or to a discount tire store.You were lucky. That's not what happened when I needed a replacement tire in Flagstaff AZ. When I was still using ST tires I had a blowout on my way to Flag from Phoenix. My new set of tires had less than 500 miles on them. The Flag store didn't have a match, and I had to accept a no name brand as the warranty replacement. I was NOT happy about it and said so. They said that was what I could take there, or go home to get a matched tire..Shortly afterwards I made the jump to LT tires.
I wouldn't make a decision based on hoping a dealer will go above and beyond what is required of them...You may very well be disappointed.
RE: Anyone care to place their bet?
All of the big three in the HEAVY hauling category will do the job. It really boils down to what DIESEL engine you prefer, Cab size, fit and finish, Those must have feature you really want and need, OH, and who gives you the best bang for the buck.
So if I get to the TOP of the hill 10 seconds slower or faster, who really cares. All i want is a TV that is reliable, gets decent milage, and comfortable for those long days on the road.
The difference between the Ford and Chevy was over 2 minutes.
Just sayin.
RE: TT Values
When I was looking for my first TT back in 1992, I must've seen 50 or 60 that were total junk. Yet they were asking 2-3K!. I wouldn't have brought a one of them home if they paid me!!.
When I finally found "the one" it was obvious. A 1975 Prowler that hadn't been used for 13 years. Clean as a whistle and everything worked. He wanted 2500.00 and we settled on 2300.00. I was the first one to see it, and would have paid his asking price if he'd stuck to it.
Old units in good shape don't stay on the market for long.
When looking at older units it is the three "Cs"
CONDITION,CONDITION,CONDITION
I used that old TT till 2001 when I bought our first new one.
I did have to do some work on it as I expected but ended up selling it for 3200.00 to the first person who looked at it. He had seen a lot of junk too, and wasn't going to walk away from this one.
RE: Maxxis Tires - Interesting information?
Reading this thread points out a downside to the Maxxis tires.
Poor availability. Though this tire is pretty much thought to be the best ST tire,,,,, it is not bulletproof. No tire is.
If one should have a mishap on the road requiring a replacement, the odds are not good that a Maxxis will be available when/where you need it.
Post after post on here about people ORDERING their Maxxis tires and having to wait for them.
Not all peoples TTs are easy candidates for the LT tire swap, so for them it's Maxxis and pray for no failures on the road.
For those that have the LT option open to them, it is something to consider.
RE: trailer tires
I think that the two ratings go hand in hand.
IOW, I doubt that there is a wheel made that has a 50 psi rating, but a load rating that equals a "E" tire...Now before someone goes to the trouble of looking up some tractor type tire....I am only talking about stuff that one would normally bolt onto a TT.
RE: Need Guidance from the Experts
Hi all,
We currently have an '11 Shamrock 233S Hybrid Trailer; paid off; that we're thinking of trading in. We've looked at a few places and found that we like the '14 Rockwood Signature 8311ss the best. We fill that it has the best added options for the money. Some of the bigger add-ons we're looking at are: Diamond package (gives the bronze outer look along with tinted/frameless windows and the corian counters), dual AC w/ 50 amp service, power jack/stabilizers, and u-shape couch. Our TV is a Ford Expedition 5.3 v8. Here are my questions:
-How is Camping World to purchase a trailer from?
-What are your thoughts on the Rockwood Signature series?
-Are we stupid for trading in our Hybrid vs selling? I just don't want to pay for dual storage and end up not selling for some reason. We won't make that much more if we sell ourselves.
Any other advise you can give us on this purchase? We ordering from the factory for the first time.
First off that TT is a 35' not a 31'.
I looked it up on the web. I do not see a option for either 50 amp service or dual AC,,, those are unusual options for a TT especially a ultra light. But if it will have those things, it will add to the dry weight...Which means that it will get you closer to the gross weight limit. IOW, it's likely gonna weigh every bit of 8500# ready to camp. It wouldn't surprise me a bit if it's over.
I wouldn't tow it with anything less than a 2500 truck.
And last if there is not much price difference whether you trade or not,, that means it's not a very good deal.
You best deals are ALWAYS cash deals no trade. Won't go into the whys here, but that's just the way it is. Lots of people try to fool themselves otherwise....You are in a better position than most with a paid off unit. Take advantage of that fact and drive a HARD bargain.
RE: boondocking - why do you do it and where?
A huge part of the fun for us is searching for new spots. We look over topographical maps, google earth etc.
Below is a spot that we found on topos. We needed a stopover point about halfway from home to the Brittany trials in New Mexico. We take a southern route in the winter when bad weather is expected in the high country. This spot is about three miles from the highway. We have used it 5-6 times
http://www.bluecollarbrittanys.com/images/New%20Mexico%202008%20016.JPG
This next one is from our camp at the Brittany trial site.. We got there a few days before the trial and had it to ourselves till others showed up....If you look real close you can see a neighbor in the distance...Probably 5-6 miles away.
http://www.bluecollarbrittanys.com/images/New%20Mexico%202008%20019.JPG
RE: 2013 Dodge 3500 30k tow rating
These are some pretty big numbers. Not sure how they came up with them, as I haven't seen enough on what was upgraded on the truck to handle it.
So the following is pure speculation.
The Cummins still seems to be (on paper) under powered a tad compared to the competition. If the drivetrain is roughly equal in strength, then higher tow numbers can be calculated.
Putting 400HP to the ground puts more strain on things than 350HP.
Couple that with some rear axle ratio options that are not available on the other brands, and one can come up with some pretty eye popping rating increases.
Now Ford and Chevy can likely close much of the gap by simply offering lower gear ratios. Will be interesting to see what happens.
RE: semi full time no generator
Perhaps PT got burned so bad by his $4500 generator-money down the drain that he'll never recover. ;)
The main rub it seems is that he spent that money on gennys OTHER THAN Honda or Yamaha or Onan - or OTHER THAN on a decent RV fuel cell.
For $4500 he originally could probably have had one of these model 210 fuel cells that replace around 210 amp hours of battery drain per 24 hour day - rain or shine, high noon or midnight, hot or cold, and use in the neighborhood of 2.64 gal. of fuel every 30 days:
http://www.efoy-comfort.com/technical-data
This looked interesting until I read the specs.
"operating temperature -4 to 104F".
In AZ I would be over the 104 a lot. PT would be under the -4 a lot.
Not sure if these can be kept in a warm area while in use or not.
Also the fuel tank is rated by AH output. When producing the 210 AH a day, the fuel will last 4.4 days. Still pretty good, but not magical like the 30 days would suggest. Haven't done the math, but I doubt that it is substantially better in consumption than a generator when factoring in the power output.
I see PT as a individualistic type, one who doesn't like to follow the crowd, but likes to come up with his own creative/ unique solutions...I have the same streak in me to an extent.
But sometimes the crowd is right.
The trouble is ... it's too late ... the $4500 is gone. :(
RE: just turning around at home?????
my WDH is rated at 1000 tongue, 10,000 tow...and the actual tongue weight of my camper is right around 700lbs. so well under the 1000 pounds.
The rating of your WDH is not relevant if you're disconnecting the bars. What is the rating of your receiver hitch on the truck. As previously noted, the receiver hitch (Class IV if OEM on a half-ton) is probably rated for only 500 lbs weight carrying (without WDH fully installed), up to 1000 lbs or more with WDH installed.This is true but,,, there should be considerably less force on the components when just moving it around at slow speed. Dynamic use (bumps at speed etc.) increase the strain on the receiver by at least 3x, probably more. That is where the rating comes into play.
You're talking about removing the bars, in other words, uninstalling WDH, so it's the weight carrying number that matters. You'd be exceeding that typical rating by 200 lbs. That rating doesn't say 500 lbs except if only for a few feet or a few minutes, but your truck, your call.
Honestly, I wouldn't install bars just to move it around. I know the numbers, but my truck, my call. Like most on here, I'm comfortable with it.
