Get a plastic pool noodle, they come in several diameters and lengths. Whenever the slide is extended, just put the noodle under the fabric to 'tent' it a little...but closer to the RV side then the street side to help prevent water from entering the RV. Should be able to get a few more years out of it that way.
Wait, a genset, something that's opened maybe twice a year, is on a hydraulic slide all it's own?
I've never seen, actually never heard of that. They're all manual pull out afaik. So...following this thread. Might be time to learn something new.
Parked covered or uncovered? Do you have the covered or uncovered vents? How's the wind there? I know the heat and sun are brutal there but not sure of the wind.
The cons of course are everything plastic that the sun hits, including your faux leather furniture, will over time get brittle and break easily. Wood will shrink. Fabrics will fade. Stuff on the roof like the shower skylight will get brittle too. For the interior, get sheets of that reflective bubble wrap to put in the windows. But you need to have the vents open to help keep the interior in better condition.
If you can find it, you'd want covered parking. Vents should be opened all the time if they're the covered type, or if not but you're protected from the wind or rain, or if you can drive over real quickly and close them when necessary.
Other things would be disconnect the batteries negative leads, fill the fuel tank shortly before parking, check all fluids. Drop the jacks to just take a little pressure off the tires, maybe park the tires on wooden or plastic boards.
I'm with you, eskins. Same here with a strong electronics/electrical and handyman background, my first RV really threw me for a while. Eventually, just dug into it and ended doing 90% of the repair work myself.
Usually, I'd find some help here on this forum, then dig into the problem. With your step issue, for instance, first thing I'd do is just crawl under there, disconnect the wires, then the throw arm. Using heavy duty zip ties, lash the steps up in the closed position. (And use one of those plastic steps to get in and out during the interim). And continue on traveling.
When I got home, I'd remove the steps and do a full service on them. Great way to learn all about them. Pretty soon, you're an expert.
Good luck, and have fun!
Speaking of Provost, saw a new one here in the park a few days ago and it really looked slick with the enclosed slide body, the wide open access to the engine, the beautiful full body paint. So I looked up that model number and found several very nice pictures of the interior for that rig. It's listed MSRP is at $1,499,000.
The 2/3 length slide, although it looked great from the outside, inside it has a 3 inch step the full length. I'd never buy that design, but if I owned it anyway, I'd likely stub my toe on that slide lip 3-4 times a day until I got use to it and got that down to 1-2 times a day.
If I was going to provide a newer electric system for RV storage customers, I'd put in a 20 Amp system with 15 amp breakers. Cheaper and will easily keep the batteries charged on any older or modern RV of any type. You're looking at less than 5 amps. The RV'ers will supply their own adapter.
This would also prevent abuse which I suspect would happen if you installed 30 Amp outlets.
I also use a sewing machine bobbin. Actually I don't know why d/n shades need the spool on the bottom. Looks like it could just be hooked to a screw,,,, but I'm not sure.
The original OEM bobbin has a slot to capture the string after you've pulled it nice and tight and wrapped it around the bobbin a few times. A screw wouldn't have that so you'd be looking at using some other method.
Another reason to use a bobbin (OEM or sewing bobbin) is that as the RV travels, the shades move, sway and get jerked around. A smooth plastic bobbin prevents string breakage you'd likely get from a rough metal screw.
To really answer your question, we'd need to see pics or have descriptions of what your RV manuf brought out to the 6-way or 7-way plug OR if like mine, the 6 was changed to a 7. Interesting that my Winnie I have a separate turn signal from the brake/tail lights, but at the 6-way plug, they combined it so the turn signal is combined with the brake signal. Then the PO put in a 7-way plug complicating things.
But, anyway, here's a link that shows what the various wiring setups would most LIKELY be, scroll down a bit: RV to Car wiring
I was on a dealers lot early yesterday and was surprised at how some of the more expensive rigs were so badly designed. Sure, they'd be really nice once all the slides were opened but they'd be horrible to spend 5 days in while traveling to say, Alaska. Not designed to stop along the side of the road to enjoy the view, that's for sure.
But I guess that's par for the course. Go tour used RVs from just before the crash of '08 and you'll find a slew of poorly designed and built rigs too.
I noticed that all the Winnebagos the designs looked like they'd lost all their good people and a committee of 'never-been-in-a-RV (more than a few minutes)' people took over the design duties. The newer Journey's were really not to my liking and showed a lack of detailing.
A newer Thor design team decided they like the floor plan of my 2002 Journey as much as I do as theirs is a nearly exact copy.
I'm happy that I made the decisions to buy used, with low miles, and for exactly the features I was looking for.
I also discovered that it's unlikely I'll ever move back to a smaller rig.
Under the hood, there is often a fuse block with a spare fuse holder or two. Adding your own wire to a constant voltage source there would fix your problem as it sounds as though you have a poor connection somewhere in the existing yellow wire connections.
Amazon carries truck tires and if you're trying to save money, and have a Prime membership (free 5 day shipping for tires), the tire size that's a direct replacement for the Michelin's is 255/70R22.5. Amazon carries some that are around $200 per tire and the average shop charges $40-$50 per tire installation, balanced and mounted. Love's truck tire shops is one typical place to have them mounted.
Also know that rotors seldom need to be turned unless you've got a metal scraping metal from a worn out pat situation. Mine went 165,000 before they needed it. And with yours at 18K, it's unlikely. They need to be replaced even less often with the exception of being cracked, warped, or blued from overheating. Even then, small blued spots aren't cause to replace a rotor. If you ride your brakes down hills, that might cause problems though.
I've been full timing for 12 years and only 3, maybe 4 times over those years, camping in over 100 campgrounds from Alaska to the Yucatan have I felt I needed one. Especially in Mexico. I will say that after my 2nd computer motherboard was killed by bad electric did I finally do the research and settle on a wired in EMS Progressive brand unit.
As it turned out, after a heavy rainstorm, the display unit went bad, but Progressive replaced it free. Only had to give them my CC # until the bad one was returned. Plus it's made in the US, AND it has an easily removed & replaced surge board so if lightening kills it, you only have to replace the board not the entire unit.
That Progressive is a 30 Amp, and now that I've moved to a 50 Amp RV, I am selling it on Craigs list. I think it's OK to put the link here because it's a public posting: Surge Protector
Thanks for the link...but those kits seem to be for using a Saturn to tow a trailer. I'll have a RV towing a Saturn.
The RV's 7-pin connector probably uses the standard wiring setup. I'll have to dig out my drawings to make sure of that but my brain is pretty tired so it'll have to wait till tomorrow. So tomorrow, I'll check my 12 V fuses, and I know there's 2-3 fuse blocks scattered around the RV.
Think I'll take another look at your link and see if I missed something or if either kit is usable backwards.
My Saturn is over at a body shop having the tow bar installed and I thought I'd get to work on checking the electrical here on the RV.
So I turn the ignition to run, turn on the running lights, and turn on the left flasher. With my drawing of typical 7-Pin RV wiring in hand I went in back and measured voltages. NOTHING! Not a single volt where it was suppose to be. Nothing on a single electrical tab. Then I moved my DVMs ground lead from what's suppose to be ground, directly to chassis and tested again. Still not a single volt. I followed the wire bundle as far back as I could, and everything looked fine.
I know the PO towed because they left me their Blue Ox tow bar, their Brake Buddy, and the manuals. But there's no electrical signals or power on the trailer connector?
Any ideas? Is there some secret junction box on a Winnebago Journey 2002 DP?
I had Progressive on my older '94 Bounder and mistakenly thought I'd get a discount when I added my newer '02 Winnie. After all, I could only drive one of them at a time. But no discount, I discovered after paying up front.
I'd called them, expecting to get a couple questions asked, and I'd assumed I'd get a multiple policy discount. The salesman told me yeah, I was getting their discount. When I looked into it, turned out the guy was less then honest. They'd added a premium onto my two policies of around $225 or so over if I'd bought the 2nd policy separately online. Salesman's commission I'd wager.
Cancelled both policies. Cost me $60 to do that too. Came back a month later and bought just one policy online (and I'd sold the Bounder so didn't need a double). Still saved money over buying over the phone.
So I'd recommend you check for a policy quote online, do not mention you've got a policy with them (they ask that on the online form). At least with Progressive. I'd bet this is true for all insurance companies these days though.
If you call and talk to a real person, it's gunna cost you.
I've read a couple Allison manuals, and those I read had a procedure to follow when welding on a RV. Like cars, newer RVs have computers all over the place. In the tranni, the engine, etc. So at least give your books a read through first.