I have a 10" Android so I downloaded an offline GPS navigator. I like the big screen view, and the low cost of the app. Got me all over the US, and then Mexico without issue. As a backup, also have a phone app.
The biggest thing about it is that it fits on my dash and I can see it easily. Hard of hearing so those spoken directions are not clear for me.
--Snip--I had a complete wash and wax job, and it was machine-buffered over every square inch. A lot of work. Cost more than $500 and looks brand-new. I've had the spray on wipe off jobs, for $400, and they do ok, but not compared to a complete wax and buff.
Compared to Southern CA prices, I think you have a bargain, depending on the kind of job that's done. You can call me a sucker, but I'm also not a sucker for cheap jobs that look good for a couple months. I really don't think a high-school kid is going to do a very good job.
I hear ya, 2Oldman, but I'd watched this crew work on 2 rigs very close to me, one right next door, and they never used a tool more complicated than a brush on a pole. If I'd seen them using a buffer, than I might have reconsidered. They were no better than some highschool kid you watch carefully, and give plenty of instructions too.
Here in Fairview, Oregon at a nice park and often saw a local RV washing service in the park. Usually took a couple workers a couple hours to do a rig as big as mine. So called them up to get a quote to wash my 35' Winnie Class A.
I expected the price to be a little higher than the $2-$7 per foot I'm use to of course because everything RV related in this area is too darn high and it's certainly not Mexico prices. I was thinking near the high end of the scale, so $245.
The guy comes out to give me a quote and launches into a phoney, "You have oxidation!! Oh, no!", he says as he rubs his finger through the dirt on the side of the RV showing me that it comes right off with his finger.
Yeah, OK, I have some minor oxidation, big deal (and what he was showing me was just dirt). So how much, I ask? He grabs his gallon jug of liquid oxidation remover to show me, as though I'm suppose to be impressed or something. Using a liquid product is like the reverse of hard. Splash it on a brush and just brush off the oxidation. Not like you have to rub every foot of the RV by hand anymore.
He wanted $550. I laughed at him a little, told him no way.
Wow, $15.71 per foot, or $137.50/hour. For washing a RV. Not exactly skilled labor so it's hard for me to justify paying that much when I could pay a high school kid $25/hour to do it.
What do the rest of you pay these days? Does $550 seem a little high to you too?
I retired 8 years early 12 years ago and looked at many 'resorts' while drifting around the country, Canada, and Mexico and everyplace I looked at there was always something that made it less than desirable. Maybe I was asking too much of my fellow humans, but in any case, I just decided to be a full time RV'er, staying a month or two here, a month or two there. Traveling from the arctic circle to the border of Belize at a nice slow, good weather seeking pace.
In the 12 years of travel, I've kept records and I've averaged $343 per month for RV spots. And I've gotten to stay as some spectacular parks. Now, I can see the attraction of settling down in one place, but I'd never do that without spending months at a spot before putting money down on a lot. There's just too many interesting places to travel for that...
When my latch lock broke a spring, (not the dead bolt, but the lower latching lock), I took it apart from the inside when it locked me inside. Removing 3 screws allowed for opening the door.
I found a spring that had broken off at the hook so I used a 1/4" zip tie to lash the spring on the post it was originally hooked on. That worked fine for 12 years. To be on the safe side, I also zip tied the latch handle (the exposed part that is used to lock the door) in the unlocked position while I continued on with my life using only the upper dead bolt.
Worked fine all those years.
A big ol' thumbs up for recer99's advice from here. It took me a year to stop trying to make a schedule. I realized that, hey, I'm retired, why be in such a hurry? So relaxing after that. Some days, I don't even bother to make a destination...it's just the journey after all. Gives me the freedom to turn left, right, or head straight. Now days, I seldom drive more than 350 odd miles.
Just commenting to get notifications. I'm interested in hearing from anyone that owns one of these. I can see where it might get in the way if you have a toad, or need to check fluid levels. My 22.5" tire weighs in at 120 odd pounds and I'd like to know how easy it would be to horse around to get in the back of the RV and add oil or antifreeze to my diesel.
Most of us have stopped carrying a spare tire and wheel as they take up so much room and weigh so much.
Maybe a carrier underneath would work better, and the ERS could get it off and the bad tire back on easier then I could.
Crawl under there in a way that the steps can't crush you, disconnect the electrical connector, unbolt it from the frame, put it on your picnic table, open everything you can and clean everything. Even the motor can be serviced and cleaned up, good time to check the bushing. Often just a really good bench cleaning, contact polishing, joint lube, and gear greasing can restore operation and give years of life.
Take some pictures and show us how it goes.
You could maybe even cut the bottom step off if you want, as long as the mechanical design allows it. Never heard of that being done, so you might be the first.
I think the attendant just screwed up.
Yea, Oregon is one of only two states where you can't pump your own (except diesel) and I'm very happy about that. Our fuel prices are very near those states around us that 'claim' they have cheaper fuel. Just not true. And we have thousands of people employed doing it too.
I often see people fighting to fuel their cars in bad weather too often spilling. The attendants here are experienced, capable, and ready for the weather so that seldom happens.
The best part is that for nearly the same cost, I get someone who pumps my gas for me! HAH! And I can keep my clothes clean at the same time. And stay warm and dry inside my car.
Those who voted for self serve in Washington several years ago, for instance, saw the fuel prices drop for six weeks after the vote, and then they slowly crept up to OVER what we typically pay in Oregon. So much for savings when you pump your own.
Blue Ox Luxor Mod BX88193 braking system from around 2006. Similar to Apollo BX88179. I have the box, and installation instructions, but didn't get the user's guide. Blue Ox web site doesn't show legacy manuals, online search gives several links to www.manualsdir.com but those all go to a page with a 502 Bad Gateway error.
Does anyone have a PDF copy of this manual? Or a link that works? And could you send it to me please?
I use it all the time as well as post reviews. Positive reviews go live almost immediately while negative content usually get held for review. I have posted negative reviews and they have never failed to post. Below is probably as negative as I have ever posted. The CG was Dakota Ridge RV Park in Golden CO.
Date of Stay: April, 2016 - $69.00
We stayed one night only 4/21 and I was quite underwhelmed. Sites are tight and I always hated the Jack & Jill sites where you face your neighbor. Naturally they put us facing someone that actually lives in the RV. She was a great lady but we simply had no patio to speak of as our neighbor occupied it. We did have a broken concrete pad that was silly petite. It is exactly as wide as the wheels and right after the concrete ends was wet mud. Not blaming the CG as they had a huge snow event just days before. However for $70 a night maybe they should have poured more generous pads. Office overcharged us as they added $10 for two children and we have no children. They claimed we said we had children which was pure bunk as we simply have never had children period. They wouldn't refund as apparently their "corporate owner" doesn't allow refunds. We camped here in a 43' motorhome and we won't be back. We camped at Dakota Ridge RV Park in a Motorhome.
Wow...that review. What they did is steal from you. I certainly hope you contacted the State Attorney General and registered a complaint. Even if all they do is contact 'Corporate', a company officer has to answer the complaint, which often gets some positive action.
When I bought this RV, (see sig) it came with a Blue Ox setup...tow bar, toad braking box, books and cables. Then there was the BX88180 'Brake Indicator' system. Problem is that I have the receiver, but the transmitter never made it, so it's with the PO.
Anyone know where I can get a replacement? I can't seem to find a dang thing online other then one on eBay for $180...more then I'd like to pay. Especially when there was another one for $25 a few weeks ago that I didn't get around to buying. It can be generic, any brand is fine.
If this is going to be your "first long trip" I suggest you don't over plan. IMO, planning two years early can be counterproductive. Keep it loose.
What I do is plan a trip to an area. Then I see what's there, branching out from a central point. You'd be surprised the hidden adventures that seem to be everywhere for a person with lots of curiosity. History, art, culture, adventure, excitement around every corner it seems.
If you have a large Front-Off-Rear switch in a cabinet somewhere, then your genset likely will run both ACs at the same time. But your 30 Amp shore power cable is the issue. If you want to, you can change that cord over to a 50 Amp...but that costs far too much. There are some things you can do...
1) Wire a heavy duty cord directly into the rear AC with a 120 Volt double pole, double throw relay ($10 for the relay) so when you plug the cord into a spare 20 Amp outlet on the power tower, the relay closes and supplies voltage to the rear AC. When it's not closed, the Genset does. The cord is just run through the bedroom window. Since most power towers in RV parks are near the rear of the drivers side, it's not that difficult to toss it out and plug in.
2) In the genset compartment, there's a 4-square metal box. You remove the cover, find which wire goes back to the rear AC, then install a switch between the genset supply, and a heavy duty extension cord which plugs into a shore power 20 Amp outlet. This is probably what you're thinking of about the article you read.
Of course you could get all fancy with a 50 Amp adapter adapted just for this purpose but simple is better. And cheaper.