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 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 424 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 2013 Trimark door handle

Thanks for the pics! Those are great. Lucky for me my Trimark is nothing like that one. Made in '02, it's bigger and doesn't have any plastic inside. Looks like this: http://chaos.goblinbox.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/P1180014.resized.jpg What I do to prevent being locked in/outside my Journey is to leave the little window beside the door unlocked so it can be pried open if necessary. Than I can reach in and unlatch using the main door handle. And I also do this...because there's a little spring that breaks or wears out and can lock you in or outside so I just Zip tie it so it can't drop down and lock. http://chaos.goblinbox.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/P1180016.resized.jpg Looks like your newer style would be an even worse design then our older styles. Hope the newer/newer style you got as a replacement is even better.
Jim@HiTek 10/21/17 01:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: portable water softener

I've been full timing for 13 years and in all that time, never had a 'hard water' problem. Never replaced a tank, never had a faucet gummed up with deposits, never had a shower head clogged. Probably because I am proactive with assessing the water hardness and mineral content of anywhere I stay. One of my first questions when I settle somewhere is about the water. So with that in mind, what I do do is keep my tank nearly full while traveling with known good water. If I'm somewhere (and those places are few and far between) where I'm tipped off about the water being not good or very hard than I use the tank. Where there is good water, I fill the tank and use shore water. Have an undersink water filter for drinking water, and a 2nd filter for the shore water faucet if it's problematic shore water. But again, never have needed to change or fix anything because of hard water deposits over 13 years of traveling. Coast to coast, Mexico to Alaska. And many times I've stayed at parks where they have equipment to soften and purify the parks water! I'm not totally against them, it's just the excess salt that comes from RV softeners is undesirable.
Jim@HiTek 10/21/17 01:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2013 Trimark door handle

Any chance you took a picture of the new Trimark, Groover?
Jim@HiTek 10/21/17 08:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide operation...HWH

Woke up this morning and immediately tested the slides...and they are working. The cold mornings for the last month have meant non-operation but today the slides are fine. So, I'm calling it a poor ground connection on the ground stud at the hydrualic manifold. There's 7 ground wires with ring terminals on the stud and they all appear to be in good condition, but for the slides to go from non-functional to functional just after reefing on that nut, and for it to stay functional kind of points to a poor connection there. When I can get an impact tool to remove the nut, I'll take that stack of grounds off, clean and tug test them all, and add some corrosion inhibitor. So that's it, a bad ground. Thanks for everyone's advice.
Jim@HiTek 10/21/17 08:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide operation...HWH

I'm sure you're all excited about the work today...here's what happened. I watched the Washington Huskies (#5 - 6-0) get beat today. Now 6-1. Oh well. What happened was after the game I clambered underneath with a new digital meter that was delivered today and found 12 volt on one big supply wire. Soaked all the local connections with P-B Blaster. Disconnected the 12 volt wire and covered the end with a sock after using a rotary brass wire brush to clean up it's terminal. Did the same to most of the other connections under there, including removing 2 inline 20 amp fuses and polishing their terminals. Liberally applied contact spray and the wire brush treatment where ever I could. Decided that all the terminals and wires going into those terminals were in good shape. Did have a bit of crud here and there, but nothing terrible. Also did the 'tug' test of around 20 lbs on wire terminals with no failures. http://chaos.goblinbox.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/PA200031.rzd_.jpg You can see that the copper terminals are in good shape. Here I've gotten the terminals all polished up (and it didn't take much) just before reinstalling them. http://chaos.goblinbox.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/PA200032.rzd_.jpg After all that and more, went inside and...no operation. Hmmm. And it's in the 80's by now. So went back down, found the ground lug, and used P-B Blaster on it. Thirty minutes later, tried unsuccessfully to remove the main nut. On there good. I'd need an impact driver for that one. But I did reef on it a bit and tugged on all the wires. Everything seemed solid. When I went back inside, now the motor runs when the switch is pressed. Tomorrow morning, when it's cold again, I'll test it again. My new meter has a Bluetooth feature so if I can get that working, I'll be able to monitor the voltage reading inside when I press the extend button. Magic.
Jim@HiTek 10/20/17 08:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide operation...HWH

Now in a site permanently and checked this morning at 65F. No operation. The slides were extended previous afternoon and worked fine in 84F temps. Jammed a pair of small needle nosed pliers under the rocker switch on the dash to activate 'Extend' while I went down and climbed in under the slideout and probed around the hydraulic assembly with my meter. Couldn't find a solid 13V anywhere I probed! But did see my meter readings swinging low to high low to high. Reminded me of a poor ground connection. Anyway, while delicately probing around the smaller wiring, I touched one 16 GA wire and WHIRRRRRR the motor takes off. Scared the living you know what out of me. Jerked back in that small space in a slapstick effort to avoid being eaten by the motor. You'll just have to imagine it, but it was comical. Was not expecting the motor to start because of where and how I was probing at the time. Anyway, with the lack of solid voltage anywhere, I'm now thinking that I've got a corroded ground lead to the slide solenoid. I'm going to remove them all and clean them all up later today. It gets up to 80F here, and the assembly is in the shade so comfortable to work on. Glad I waited. Stay tuned...
Jim@HiTek 10/20/17 10:32am Class A Motorhomes

Full timing for 13 years going on 14. Keep thinking that someday...maybe 10 years from now, I MIGHT be interested in settling down somewhere. But wait...I haven't been there yet, I should check it out...
Jim@HiTek 10/19/17 08:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Lippert Hydraulic Jack Removal

You might want to barrow or rent and air impact or electrical impact wrench. Or at least soak the bolts in P-B Blaster overnight.
Jim@HiTek 10/19/17 10:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide operation...HWH

Not really, Don. I'm traveling south and have arrived at my destination here in Pahrump, Nevada in the desert. Since I arrived I've been busy working on minor RV things, running errands, and taking quick tours of the area (you know how it is when you move somewhere new) so haven't worked on the slides since I got here at 2 pm yesterday. But, yesterday I was also in Tonopah where it's slight cooler than here. It got down to mid 50's the previous night and my slides didn't work until 10 am after it got up to 60F. I got them functioning again by wiggling the wires down there...whacking the back of the motor didn't do anything that time. I've decided to stay here for a month, but haven't decided on which spot I'll take here in the park yet. I'll do that today. After I move I can get back to work on this problem. Just now tested the slides at 57F air temp and...nothing. Friendly neighbors and I'll be here for a month so should be able to find help with testing soon.
Jim@HiTek 10/18/17 08:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blower motor resistor

Those are mostly (in my expirience) a 2" long component made of a resistance wire, wound on a ceramic core, and riveted to the back of the control that selects fan speed. Sometimes there's two of them. They are very reliable. I'd check for a broken wire or bad contact first.
Jim@HiTek 10/18/17 07:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cover for storage at home

They make RV garages like what you're talking about over in the deserts outside of LA. You could google search for fabric car ports focusing on California, line up a couple handymen where you are if you find anything and have it shipped to you. The fabrics are UV stable, allow air to circulate, and I've seen them with pull ropes and pulley systems that roll up the sides. And yes, they can be supplied with fabric roofs.
Jim@HiTek 10/18/17 07:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee Series 32 step motor

Fixed mine in a '94 a couple times, and the fixes were fairly easy. Just contact cleaning twice and a rebuild once. There was that time when the bolts holding the entire assembly rusted through and the steps detached from the RV frame and swung free. Bent some stuff and cracked open the gear case. Even then was able to straighten everything, lube the gears, brighten all the contacts, bolt the case back together, add new stainless bolts and nuts to hold the step assembly in place, and, ta da good as new. Point is that they are pretty easy to work on, especially if you have a grandson to take it off the RV for you so you can take it into the shop.
Jim@HiTek 10/18/17 07:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roof re-caulking

Also a fan of Eternabond. Splitting after six years isn't all that unusual, especially if you have a certain travel route or favorite parking spot that racks your RV in such a way that the roof twists occasionally. That will open seams easily over time. Agree that you should get a second opinion. You could also consider going to Mexico. The RV park you stay at would know someone who could do the job and it would probably be under $100. I had the edges of my Winnie fiberglass roof done with EBond by 2 guys, cost was $30 labor and $120 total. Took them all of 45 minutes. I did the end caps myself which doesn't look as good as their work.
Jim@HiTek 10/18/17 07:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Oh NOH! That end cap seam is something us RV'ers seal up with Eternabond tape as soon as we buy a used RV. As old as that rig is, hard to believe the other owners never sealed the front and rear caps with EBond. Along with the other seams up there around other cutouts. You've got a 'potential' issue with that seam leaking for years over the driver and passenger areas and into the cabinets and the walls. Looking forward to seeing what you find up there...
Jim@HiTek 10/17/17 08:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tips for using MH for 1st trip

First short trip would be to a large parking lot with painted lines. Park in the center, than put vinyl tape on the window to indicate where the RV is centered. This is for a Class A. A class C it's much easier to tell. Always downshift when the engine starts lugging on an uphill, and keep it there on the way down...lets the engine and tranni slow you so you don't overheat your brakes. As the truckers say, use the same gear up and down a hill.
Jim@HiTek 10/16/17 08:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cummins failed to start

I had a banjo connector on the engine develop a leak and gave me a no start condition like yours. It had been starting up fine just the day before. The diesel tech who fixed it showed me what lead him to that and you could see a small stain of fuel on the side of the engine coming from the banjo. It was part of the fuel rail assembly on top of the engine so past the lift pump. Once that was replaced, no more air in the fuel rail and started fine. He also told me it had a 'weak' fuel pump. Whatever that is. Pump was in the front fuel tank so had 25 feet of hose going back to the rear engine. What I did was run down to NAPA and buy an external fuel pump, several brass connectors, an inline filter, hose clamps, and some fuel hose. Then mounted it to the chassis near the engine and plumbed it into the incoming fuel line. Had to adapt the smaller ID fuel pump fittings to the larger hose. Power from IGN was conveniently there near the engine. Cost was under $100...I think it was $48 total back in '04. And it worked fine for 12 years. Still working when I sold the rig. Pump was 8 GPM as I recall. So I'm suggesting that a no start could be caused by a small leak in your engines fuel rail somewhere, and that you can just add an external fuel pump if you have a repeat of the problem AND it turns out to be the fuel pump and not a leak.
Jim@HiTek 10/16/17 09:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What's your Suggested yearly Maintenance/Repair fund/budget?

Wouldn't call any RV an 'investment'. It's a depreciating asset. Or some would call it a mill stone rather than asset.
Jim@HiTek 10/16/17 09:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What's your Suggested yearly Maintenance/Repair fund/budget?

Counting everything like optional stuff I just wanted but didn't need, the insurances, the license and registration, than the actual cost of repairs and maintenance, it's come to over $5K for 20 months. So something like $158/mo.
Jim@HiTek 10/15/17 10:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Of course I'm still learning

The further outside of a big town you can get to find a storage facility, the less expensive it becomes. And sometimes competition will help too. One thing I see here in the western states for RV protection are buildings with metal or wood roofs, and open sides and ends. Or perhaps one or more sides are solid in the direction of prevailing winds and storms. Many owners of those buildings add open weave fabric sides. Like sun screens. Allows wind to pass though for the most part. Stops most rain and snow. Gives shade. Much less expensive then a walled enclosure. Does require a little more proactive work by the owner to keep it from damage. For instance, in a wind storm, the 'walls' may need to be rolled up.
Jim@HiTek 10/14/17 09:07pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide operation...HWH

Because of the possibility that placing the heater near the hydraulic assembly could have been a coincidence, today, preparing for tomorrows departure, I didn't set up the heater. But I was prepared too. It's important for my schedule that I leave tomorrow, and it's been getting down to the teens the last two nights. So at 11 this morning, I started testing the slides. I could get no movement from them even as the air temps progressed to 60F. Finally, since it was 4 pm and the temps would soon fall again, I took my rubber mallet and focused a blow to the back of the small motor on the assembly. Immediately went inside to test. And the slides were working. So when I'm in an area where it's warm and I can work on the problem, I'm planning on removing that motor, and the nearby solenoid, and digging into their innards to see what I can see. Probably be able to do that next Tuesday as I'll be in the Phoenix valley. Should be warm enough for work. I like Don's test idea, but today sort of proved it's a motor or solenoid issue in a very small area and I think I know which component.
Jim@HiTek 10/14/17 08:53pm Class A Motorhomes
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