I had Progressive on my older '94 Bounder and mistakenly thought I'd get a discount when I added my newer '02 Winnie. After all, I could only drive one of them at a time. But no discount, I discovered after paying up front.
I'd called them, expecting to get a couple questions asked, and I'd assumed I'd get a multiple policy discount. The salesman told me yeah, I was getting their discount. When I looked into it, turned out the guy was less then honest. They'd added a premium onto my two policies of around $225 or so over if I'd bought the 2nd policy separately online. Salesman's commission I'd wager.
Cancelled both policies. Cost me $60 to do that too. Came back a month later and bought just one policy online (and I'd sold the Bounder so didn't need a double). Still saved money over buying over the phone.
So I'd recommend you check for a policy quote online, do not mention you've got a policy with them (they ask that on the online form). At least with Progressive. I'd bet this is true for all insurance companies these days though.
If you call and talk to a real person, it's gunna cost you.
I've read a couple Allison manuals, and those I read had a procedure to follow when welding on a RV. Like cars, newer RVs have computers all over the place. In the tranni, the engine, etc. So at least give your books a read through first.
Keep in mind that L. Schwab is just a tire business and they can also mess up if you're not watching.
Once had one of their 'truck tire' shops set my lug nuts at 125 ft-lbs instead of 450 ft-lbs, it was pretty exciting when 3 of them let loose on the freeway at 60 MPH. In a different shop, I loaned the tech my jack stand to rest his tool on while trying to break the lug nut free (he didn't know that's what the notch in the middle of the saddle on the jack stand was for), because their air impact tool didn't have the oomph? I'm glad I was there watching so he didn't round off the edges of the lug nuts struggling with getting them loosened using a long breaker bar and socket. As it was, he busted his knuckles pretty good a couple times when the socket slipped off the lug nut before I stepped in with help.
I prefer to be nearby when they're working on the rig so I can keep an eye on things, tell them the ft-lbs & PSI I want, and to their credit, LS shops let you hang around nearby.
I'd suggest that whoever you use you keep an eye on things.
One of my wheel covers, passenger side rear, on my '94 Bounder DP was cracked and I can't tell you the number of people who stopped to warn me that my wheel was cracked and that I shouldn't drive it. Gah. Even a pair of cops once. Their hearts were in the right place though.
After several years I'd had enough and bought one from a salvage yard for $75 or so. They've closed, but salvage yards do carry them. You might need to call around.
It's probably 'good enough' but only if you also use good parking techniques, put up sun screens on the windows, keep the awning extended, turn it on early AM or leave it on all night.
Or best yet, be a snow bird and head north in the summer.
I usually clean as best I can, turn off the water, than pour a little ATF in the empty bowl. Let it sit in there a couple days. It will often cause the seals to expand a bit which will cause it to seal against water again. Usually only had to do it once a year after the rig had been sitting unused for a bit.
Usually the pumps aren't the cause of loudness, the mounting of the pump is. You can isolate the pump by putting in on top of a piece of plywood and putting rubber under it to quiet it some.
Also, what many people think of as loudness when the pump runs, with their head stuck inside the water compartment, is not that loud inside the RV and many of us use that sound to tell if the pump is coming on periodically when not called for. If it does, that tells us there's a leak somewhere. If it doesn't come on periodically there's no leak. So it's acting as a 'Tell-tale'.
Hah, neat idea Discovery4us, and a few years ago I would have done it that way just for the fun. Now though, I think instead I'll tie into the cars wiring in the trunk. Looks to be a simple job. Wiring is easily accessible and although the car is a 2001, it's very clean, and no rust! Only has 61,000 on it too.
Thanks for everyone's help, keep the ideas coming!
I was looking for a kit of parts and wires but it looks from what Amazon carries that it would make more sense to buy components and make up my own kit.
After 12 years of RV'ing I've finally upgraded my RV to a '02 Journey with a 330 HP Cat. Also just bought a 2001 Saturn LS1 as a towed. I'm in Portland, Oregon and a local trailer business is an authorized installer for Blue Ox so I've made an appointment to have the Ox base plate installed there. Cost is $394 parts, and $275 flat rate.
The RV came with a Blue Ox tow bar, the RV has a 7-pin connector with a funny 6-pin electrical drawing that I suspect is just a mistake on engineering's part, and there's also a braking system.
I plan on installing the electrical in the car myself since there's where my training is, but wonder what you folks that have done the wiring yourself used for parts or kits.
The Saturn has separate brake and running lights, backup lights, etc., and I probably need to add a switch for the 30 amp fuse Saturn recommends I remove.
Any thoughts on electrical setup with this car???
Thanks in advance.
On my '94, the spring broke on that lock (not the deadbolt) while I was inside. I lashed it in place with a zip tie. Eventually found a replacement spring for it and replaced the broken one, but I never saw the purpose for two locks, so I only used the deadbolt and left the zip tie in place.
My newer '02 Winnie has the same setup and I'll do the same thing...especially since the dealer didn't give me a key for that lock anyway.
So my advice is to zip tie it so it won't ever be a problem.
Bob's (robertsunrus) evaluation is spot on in my expirience.
I use to be a service manager and my department sold 'Service Contracts' (SC), we weren't allowed to call them Extended Warranties due to liability from that.
Doing the spreadsheets tracking it, I found that 10% of SC buyers used 90% of the monies we took in. That left around 10% profit. Not bad for doing nothing except making a phone call and selling the SC.
The economy caused us to look very carefully at the contract when we needed to get that profit up, and we didn't care much when the economy was good so the customers seldom had to complain. But we still denied some claims for things not covered or abuse, as spec'ed in the contract.
Since I worked in the industry and was familiar, I checked on SCs for RVs when I started RVing and found that the same thing pretty much happens there with SCs. When the economy is bad, they will fight you tooth and nail. When it's good, they'll pretty much deal fairly with you 10%'ers as we called you in the industry. But...it's the fine print that'll kill you even then.
And no, I've never bought one for my RVs.
I hope you'll consider Hikerdogs suggestion, getgoin. To me that's the most reasonable approach. I understand your anger, and I would be too, but Hikerdogs makes some good points. I personally, would want to talk to the techs, and talk to everyone at Winnie about the potential for other issues. It's unlikely that's the only shoddy area of construction.
Make sure you take lots of pictures of the damage, and inferior workmanship uncovered all ready. You may have to revisit your documents again someday.
Fingers crossed that this is the only issue.
Most of the west is in a continuous state of drought these days. Your tank is made from water safe plastic and can hold water for years without issue as the system is closed. Keep the water, don't dump for frivolous reasons, even cold can be accommodated. Big tanks of water have 'thermal inertia' and it takes days to freeze a large tank of water at 20 degrees in a closed compartment. Even longer if a small heater is put in the bay.
BTW, sometimes, the water in the water heater can develop a skunky, rotten egg smell. You can either drain it, flush, and treat it, or just ignore it. You don't usually drink hot water anyway. It'll go away after a few gallons have been run through the tank. The water in the main tank is usually fine.
For future reference, the following was developed by a RV'ing city water master who has a PHd in Chemistry, adjust the amounts of additives to your tank size:
Springtime Preventative: Add 1 oz bleach per 60 gallons of water
Troubled system: Add 8 oz of bleach per 60 gallons of water
To remove smells: 1 & 1/2 cup vinegar per 60 gallons of water
To sweeten water: Add 1/2 cup dissolved baking soda per 60 gallons of water.
Notice that the amount of bleach is minimal. That's all that's needed because it's that strong. Adding too much is as bad as adding too little.