RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 544 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 28  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Post subject: How do I fix a black tank leak?

There is seepage at the top of my black tank right where the toilet drain hooks to the tank. It leaks from the bottom side of the flange where it meets the top of the tank. I have some ideas but am not sure of the best path. thanks in advance, Bob Yikes. Have heard of people cutting open the floor to access the joint to remove the old pipes and doing a better job of plastic welding. Depends on how much you want to do of course and how talented you are with construction. If you can reach the outside of the joint from topside or below, there are clamp on rubber devices to stop leaks. Check at Home Depot and the like. If there's no room, you might have to put an interior sleeve inside the drain...assuming there aren't too many bends and such. Whatever you end up doing, let us know what you came up with.
Jim@HiTek 05/17/18 08:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan parts are bad

There's always these guys...Flight Systems
Jim@HiTek 05/17/18 07:31am Beginning RVing
RE: 1992 Itasca Sunrise air horn

Not sure any RVs that small had air horns on them back in the '90's. But, all is not lost. There's an after market $40 set available: Air Horns. If you're looking for authentic, a visit or call to one of the many RV Salvage companies around the US might work. I'd think a visit would be the most fun...RV Salvage & Surplus
Jim@HiTek 05/17/18 07:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Scaly Ears

I wonder if these vets might be helpful: Ask a expert...
Jim@HiTek 05/13/18 03:40pm RV Pet Stop
RE: Coolant service cost

What does your Operators Manual say you should do? I did my own on my Cummins back in '07 or so following the guide in the manual. Wasn't that difficult or expensive.
Jim@HiTek 05/11/18 07:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coolant service cost

Doesn't sound like Cummins shop is interested in doing the job. Not really needed as far as I know and have been told and have found reading.
Jim@HiTek 05/11/18 05:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best digital amplifier for existing antenna

We have a Windgard Sensar III Antenna on our 2015 Montana. We want to upgrade it to a digital amplifier but be able to mount the new amplifier on the existing antenna pole. So what would be the best digital amplifier to purchase. Thanks all for your help. Not needed since it's an already amplified antenna optimized for best performance by folks actually knowing what they are doing ... save your $$$ and stop worrying. Larry X2! No need for any extra amps.
Jim@HiTek 05/11/18 05:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Help with Antenna

Going by this picture, Antenna, the short stubby antenna elements should be aligned at a right angle to the TV transmitting antenna. Put another way, you'll be pointing the end of the structure that's supporting those short antenna segments (that are parallel to the main wings) towards the transmitting tower. Usually, towns and cities have all the transmitters for different TV networks all on the same or nearby hills so generally if you're within 25 miles of the towers you only need to point in one direction. I do have to occasionally turn the antenna to improve the signal for a certain network. Where I am in Sioux Falls, I don't even get ABC. Note that TREES play havoc with TV signals (and Wifi signals).
Jim@HiTek 05/11/18 05:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

No problem, run it through a giant planer.
Jim@HiTek 05/11/18 05:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refridgerator in Birmingham

When you find leads on a tech, it's always best to run their companies name through RVServiceReviews to get a general idea of what kind of work they do and what fellow RVers say about them.
Jim@HiTek 05/07/18 08:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

You are on the wrong side of the country for that. Lol. Maybe you could hang it in the top of the shower. A little bit of paint, and it will blend right in. It would still give you space to put your head while showering. Lol... In Sioux Falls, SD right now. Will be in Minneapolis in a week for a week, than down to Forest City, IA for a week, then over Fairfield, IA for a month probably. Thinking of visiting Niagara Falls one time. Maybe Vermont too. Who knows, I go where the wind blows...
Jim@HiTek 05/06/18 08:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Strange water behavior...

Remove the Water Regulator from the system. Then see if the problem returns. Doug Doug was correct (along with anyone else who mentioned the pressure regulator). The one I was using is brass, looks fine, but seems to be the cause of the weirdness with water pressure. Found an older one in my plumbing junk box and installed it. Problem went away. Problem Solved! Thanks for the input everyone. (PS Went ahead and ordered the adjustable regulator anyway.)
Jim@HiTek 05/06/18 02:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Strange water behavior...

Black Bart's in Flagstaff is one of those parks that has over 100 PSI all the time and announce it several places so RV'ers won't miss it. I was there a week ago and tested my pressure gauge. Worked great, right at the 110 the told me they were running. So I'm pretty confident that the pressure here at this park is the 104 PSI that I'm measuring (Sioux Falls). I plan on running the test proposed earlier by replacing my brass pressure regulator with an adjustable one from Amazon. Should have it by Tuesday and I'll report back. I can't run the test here at 104 PSI because the bathroom sink valve drips when the pressure is over 70 PSI and I don't want to temp fate and have something blow out. The new pressure regulator (always wanted an adjustable regulator - this is a good excuse as any to get one) should show me if it's just a bad reducer or if I need to dig deeper into the plumbing.
Jim@HiTek 05/06/18 01:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Ya know what you can do with that excess wire and left over steel? Weld me up an pivoting rack for a 22.5" tire to hang under my RV somewhere. I've been carrying my spare tire (no wheel) around in the trunk of my towed and it really doesn't fit there. I'd like to hang it underneath the RV someplace. So, don't waste that welding wire. Put it to good use maybe? Heh. ;)
Jim@HiTek 05/05/18 08:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Strange water behavior...

Remove the Water Regulator from the system. Then see if the problem returns. Doug Just got all set up to do this and checked the water pressure. 104 PSI. So I guess it'll have to wait for when I'm at a park with a bit lower pressure.
Jim@HiTek 05/05/18 06:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 96 rexhall dometic fridge shuts off

How about the connectors and the crimps on the terminals of the thermocouple? Are they in good condition? I had similar symptoms to yours and had a shop replace the board up in the Yukon. Seemed to work for the next 1,000 miles and then failed again. When I actually took the time to look and measure the Thermocouple, it was not making good connection on the spade connectors on the new electronics board. Making the circuit think the flame wasn't lit. So it would turn on and run for a while, than temperature fluctuation would cause it to open circuit. Shutting off the flame. All I did to fix it right was to squeeze the crimp connections on the thermocouple wires and then squeeze the 1/4" female terminals so they grabbed the spade terminals on the circuit board tighter. Felt pretty silly that I'd paid a shop $264 for a board and labor costs I didn't need. Try that.
Jim@HiTek 05/05/18 02:30pm Tech Issues
Strange water behavior...

'02 Winnebago Journey 36' Water and plumbing tends to be a mystery to me and my RV has developed this water problem that leaves me scratching my head: Turn the kitchen faucet on 'full' and the water starts out with a slightly lower then normal flow. After a few seconds, it's slowed to a trickle. Go back to the bathroom sink, turn it on full, and it's nearly full volume. And then the kitchen flow jumps up to nearly normal. This only happens on shore water (and I have a 45 PSI pressure reducer at the shore water faucet). This park and all the others I've visited since this started happening a few weeks ago have had greater than 45 PSI. I have one of those under sink filters in the kitchen but the bathroom faucet does something similar...when I turn it on full, is starts out full flow, but slowly reduces, so I don't think it's the filter. No sputtering at all. Does the same thing with the single handled faucets set for full cold or hot, but seems more pronounced with the hot side. Any ideas?
Jim@HiTek 05/05/18 02:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: water heater not lighting

It's 33 years old. It's probably tired of working. On the other hand, if it has a pilot light, that flame is suppose to keep the thermocouple hot, which through the magic of electronics (assuming your old tank has an electronic control) holds the propane valve open, and the pilot light lights the propane. Those thermocouples can go bad, or the connections to the thermocouple can corrode and cause it to work erratically. In addition, not sure but you might have what's known as a thermal fuse inline with the 12 volt supply to your electronic control. Check that right off. They open circuit for no reason. They are available on eBay, $6 for 5 of them. There's usually a set of thermodisks too. Each one of those can go bad. All three of those devices can be checked with a simple ohmmeter. And they should register as a short or near to one. All testing can be done outside under the heaters cover. To test either thermaldisks or thermal fuse, just short them out. One at a time. That's if you have any of them. Not sure without the model and brand.
Jim@HiTek 05/03/18 08:43pm Travel Trailers
RE: Is 2016 Winnebago Journey prewired for brake controller?

Brake wiring using the typical electric brake controller under the dash always uses a blue wire going back to the trailer hitch to connect to the towed vehicle. If you see a stray blue wire under your dash, or back at the hitch, then it's probably wired for it. It's always best to check the diagrams for your model of course. Here's a pretty neat trailer wiring diagram covering all the standard connectors that might be back near the hitch: Trailer Wiring
Jim@HiTek 05/02/18 07:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Grommets to seal battery cables

Along with Ace or TrueValue, I know Harbor Freight carries kits of grommets and O rings.
Jim@HiTek 05/02/18 06:49am Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 28  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2018 CWI, Inc. © 2018 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS