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 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 300 matches.

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RE: 3 position Transfer Switch

Quick look on amazon for a 30 amp transfer switch is around 75 dollars. That seems like a pretty inexpensive route. Please let me know if there is a better way. Thank you, Sean These are much less expensive, smaller too. Calling a simple relay a transfer switch adds a cost premium for some reason. Might need two, and a couple sockets for them. 30A, 12V relays...I use these relays all the time for 12V, but are the contacts rated high enough for a continuous 110VAC 30A load?. Opps...sorry! Got distracted for a couple three days. You're right, that linked relay wouldn't do the job. Here's a style I would recommend, or one like it. The P&B (Potter and Brumfield) model is what I've used for years. I've used these in many of my designs and they're very reliable, even at rated load...30A @ 240V. And they have a 12V coil. Best part is that even if you need two, costs under $10. You do have to know how to solder though. Relay!
Jim@HiTek 10/24/16 01:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Freightliner

Sometimes you can just google your VIN number and you can discover stuff about your rig.
Jim@HiTek 10/24/16 12:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cab heater not working

X3 on the vacuum problem. My old '94 Bounder DP had the pump on the inside of the frame rail way back just in front of the engine so it was a bear to find. The vacuum stuff was sort of hidden. I could hear the pump rattling for a couple years before it went out, and that's when my heater only blew in defrost mode. Cost was $150 I think?
Jim@HiTek 10/24/16 12:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fogged Side Windows

There are many different styles of dual paned windows. It would help get better advice if you put the make, model, and year of your RV in you signature...or at least in your profile. Here's how I repaired my windows. I always thought it would be easy to walk a handyman through the process if I wanted to hire someone. It was a '94 Bounder. DIY repair of dual paned windows.
Jim@HiTek 10/24/16 12:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help with furnace please

If you're serious, I'd recommend buying a catalytic propane heater and forgetting the heat pump altogether. Reason is that the heat pumps are setup to use 120Vac, use the AC compressor for heating by routing the hot exhaust air into the home not the cold air, aren't very efficient, etc. Catalytic propane heaters are very efficient, use zero to very little electric (only use electric if it has a fan), and can be plumbed into the existing propane system. Disadvantage is that they pump out moisture so you need to keep a window cracked, and are relatively expensive. Might try to find places to stay that have mobile propane refilling services. Also, there are many, many remote areas that have nearby propane companies that lease out large propane tanks by the month and can plumb them into RVs. Here's some: Propane heaters...
Jim@HiTek 10/24/16 11:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 3 position Transfer Switch

Quick look on amazon for a 30 amp transfer switch is around 75 dollars. That seems like a pretty inexpensive route. Please let me know if there is a better way. Thank you, Sean These are much less expensive, smaller too. Calling a simple relay a transfer switch adds a cost premium for some reason. Might need two, and a couple sockets for them. 30A, 12V relays...
Jim@HiTek 10/21/16 10:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Travel with Cats

Try one of these toilet training kits... Cat toilet trainer...
Jim@HiTek 10/21/16 10:13am RV Pet Stop
RE: Towing a vehicle. What kind of set up

First you need to find out how MUCH weight you can tow. That helps decide what vehicle you should get. With a 5,000 lb rating on the RV you're looking at, it may already be overweight and so legally can't tow anything. Engine size is important too. The rule of thumb is 100 lbs per 1 HP. So a 330 HP engine can fairly easily drive the RV and tow, up to a total of 33,000 lbs. Tow dollies weigh about 600 lbs and that counts in your capacity calculations. Trailers weigh even more. That's why most RV'ers go with 4 down as RVs are notorious for not having the tow capacity the average person wants. eBay has used tow bars and braking systems (required by many states) but tow plates that go on the car are semi-custom so generally hard to find on the used market. You're looking at $1,000 - $1500 if you do much of the electrical wiring yourself. Often the RV needs wiring too. $2,000 if you have shops do everything...usually. I just went through all this and there are sooooo many things to consider. I had the luxury of having plenty of time to work on it so spent many an hour online perusing RV'ing websites like this one to get as much info as I could. Even then there were some issues. I have published a 'Towing' section on my blog that is fairly extensive with links to some helpful sites. Maybe you'll find some useful info there.
Jim@HiTek 10/06/16 06:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Services at nonselling dealer

I always check RVServiceReviews.com for users evaluations of dealers. You can often find alternatives to the dealers there too.
Jim@HiTek 10/01/16 12:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fire suppression system

There's a couple fire suppression companies that show up at Quartzsite in January if anyone is interested. I've read several happy evaluations.
Jim@HiTek 09/29/16 08:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: hydraulic fluid reservoir for leveling system

Once you find the tank, note that with my Power Gear system, I was successful using ATF Stop Leak to stop a leak in my right rear jack. I did need to take care that I didn't park where that jack would be stressed with side forces but I could usually go 2 years before repeating the treatment.
Jim@HiTek 09/29/16 01:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1/2" pex is not 1/2"?

And to add even more confusion, there is Pex 'tubing' and Pex 'pipe'. I really like the tubing, the pipe...not so much. But my local hardware stores are carrying the piping and supplies, not the tubing. Gah! What your local stores chose to carry depends on your area.
Jim@HiTek 09/26/16 11:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water Pump/Supply problem

Also, along with what Old-biscuit says, to add to his check list, check that your inside and outside shower valves are off, not just the valves in the heads.
Jim@HiTek 09/26/16 10:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Toad hit three times

I think it's your RVs paint job. There's something about it that probably is akin to camouflage and causes other drivers to not realize it's all really there and may have an extension added. You have a ghost RV. There's a lot of science that goes into camouflage so you need to find a University that works on it and invite all the professors out to look at your RV and come up with an anti-camouflage paint scheme. Heh. :)
Jim@HiTek 09/24/16 11:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shore power

When plugged into shore power for a few minutes, go measure the voltage across the chassis battery. You may or may not measure 13.8 volts. If you do, disconnect shore power and measure again. If it's 10 volt or so, you have a bad battery. Replace. If you do not, than you need a Trik-L-Start or similar device that'll keep your chassis (starting) battery topped off. Do not depend on the roof mounted solar panel as those are too small to do anything worthwhile.
Jim@HiTek 09/23/16 09:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roadmaster Spare Tire Carrier

Wow, thanks for the excellent advice, guys. I was also considering this product but think I'll pass on it. I've made many trips up to Alaska and I will not make that trip without carrying a spare. There are places on that trip where you're 100 miles from the nearest town...or so it seems. For example, I had a blow out around 25 miles from Vanderhoof in central Canada on my way to Prince George. Driving my Bounder. The roadside service had the equipment to put my spare on for me no problem. But I was curious so asked them about a replacement tire and they didn't have one. They would have had to send a truck to Prince George, pick up a 19.5 for me and bring it back. Tire guy told me it would have taken 3 days for them to be able to get me back on the road. And I was parking in a farmer's field, miles from anything, and being back on the road quickly was critical. As it was, because I had the spare, we were only delayed 3 hours. That was a lesson I'll not soon forget, considering some of the lonely roads I've traveled even in the Western US. My Winnie has 22.5 tires so I'll only carry one casing instead of both it and a wheel like I use to carry in my Bounder, which used 19.5's, but I'll keep carrying it...somewhere.
Jim@HiTek 09/23/16 09:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water Softener System

I'm a reluctant soft water fan for RV'ers. I have seen, and grew up with water softening when I was a kid and though expensive, and a hassle, it helped with things like laundry, prevention of hard water deposits, and better drinking water, but really, it was hard to notice a difference when it needed recharging. Now, as a full time RV'er, I'd only consider the systems I've seen if I tended to plant myself in a couple areas of my travel circuit where the water was noticeably hard. And you'll find those places in your travels, your neighbors will tell you right off. Also, if I were to get one, I think I'd do it at the Quartzsite rendezvous where you find experts and usually reasonable prices. What I'm saying is that if you have a home base with hard water where you stay in your RV a lot, sure, get one. If not, wait a bit and travel a while before deciding. The systems are fairly expensive.
Jim@HiTek 09/23/16 08:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Future owner questions

You already know, but I'll reiterate, don't buy from CW. I'd suggest buying in Elkhart but wherever you decide to buy, always check them. RVServiceReviews.com is a good start, if a dealer has a bad service deptment, you'd probably not want to buy there. Yelp might have some helpful reviews.
Jim@HiTek 09/23/16 02:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery isolator switch?

It doesn't 'override' them, it places them in parallel so you have the house batteries assisting the starting battery. The root of your problem is probably because your RV doesn't have an aux charging system for your chassis battery while you're parked and plugged into shore power. BTW, the optional roof mounted solar panel is basically just a salesman's scam. What you should do is just go measure across the chassis batts in the condition it was when you had the problem and if the voltage is not 13.8 or so, you need an aux charger like a Trik-L-Start. If you've parked the RV without shore power, just disconnect the grounds from both sets of batts and they'll hold a charge for months. If you leave them connected, they'll slowly discharge...the chassis batts in days, the house batts in a couple weeks.
Jim@HiTek 09/23/16 12:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: DEF diesel engines

Don't know about DEF, but the rule of thumb for engine size vs RV weight is a minimum of 1 HP/100 lbs. HP = GVWR/100. So if you have a 33,000 lb RV, the LEAST you'd want in engine size is 330 HP. Seems to me of the rigs I've driven, that rule of thumb is fairly accurate.
Jim@HiTek 09/23/16 12:19pm Class A Motorhomes
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