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 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 373 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Whining noise in refrigerator

Some models mount the converter/inverter on the floor under the refer. Pull out the bottom drawer and look under there. Also, Where's your grandkids.
Jim@HiTek 05/25/17 08:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water systems

I also have always used a stronger concentration of bleach. Do you recall how long he recommended to leave the bleach in the system? I always let it sit for 4 hours, but it seems like more time might be beneficial for a lower concentration. Just out of curiosity, what is sweetened water and why would you want to sweeten water? Yes, he said that 4-8 hours was fine. He normally let his sit overnight. Also, if you're busy, leaving it in too long doesn't hurt anything. And if you can't wait the 4 hours, also, no big deal. The bleach does a great job in just a few minutes. Sweetened water is what we use to call hard water that had been softened. Baking soda helps take that 'harshness' some water has away and makes it taste a bit like it's been softened. I don't recall all the details.
Jim@HiTek 05/18/17 08:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water systems

If you have any bleach/Clorox smell leftover, put in an ounce or two (or more, doesn't matter) of Hydrogen Peroxide. It's perfectly safe (you can drink it) and the chemical reaction kills all the bleach on contact. The 3% is safe, and you can swallow small amounts without harm, but repeated (daily) usage, or swallowing too much is NOT recommended. Won't hurt your fresh water system on your RV though in concentrations below 45%.
Jim@HiTek 05/17/17 09:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water systems

Interesting, Jim. I use a higher percent of bleach but your guy appears to be an expert. He definitely was. I followed his blog years ago as he was a fellow RVer and he was always helping people on forums with their tank problems. He had all the credentials and the expirience so that I totally trust his figures. He backed up his expertise with common sense too. Haven't seen him post anything in over a decade and he was elderly when I was reading his stuff.
Jim@HiTek 05/17/17 07:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water systems

I'm with rk911. Pretty much the same with me. Aside from that, many RVers totally over chlorinate their tanks. Here's what a professional chemist who worked at city water treatment plants his entire career says about your fresh water system: Troubled System (smells, floating stuff): 0.13 * Tank size = oz of bleach to add to the tank (Ex: 7.8 oz/60 gal) Preventative Maintenance: 1 oz bleach / 60 gallons. Remove average smells: 1 & 1/2 cup vinegar / 60 gallons. Sweeten water: 1/2 cup baking soda / 60 gallons.
Jim@HiTek 05/17/17 06:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help. Converting Auto park Brake to manual lever

The gray switch was missing a piece, replaced it and no change, then replace the green switch with a new one and no change. No more oil leak but the light still one. Brakes are working fine but light is one. Is there a reset or something that I need to do. Did you contact Roger (Oldusedbear) at the link shown on page one? He use to take phone calls too.
Jim@HiTek 05/16/17 05:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar Panels (why are people going small?)

Can't hardly beat this high efficiency RV swamp cooler. But stay in the desert west. Turbo Cool thingy.
Jim@HiTek 05/11/17 08:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mobile Repair - Positive or Negative?

From the post on this site and my experience, it seems the family owned repair companies are better than the big chain repair shops. My experience too. But...I have sent mobile techs home when they tried to snow me. I always take the time to do the best on line research about a problem I can before calling a tech.
Jim@HiTek 05/11/17 08:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking for advice on an Amigo motorhome

It's only worth what a seller is willing to accept and a buyer is willing to pay. I know that after living full time in two used Class A RVs since '04, I'd not be willing to pay much. On reflection though...it might be a fun project.
Jim@HiTek 05/11/17 08:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Best GPS for a motorhome

@RVER Hmm. Well, I know what you're talking about, and I solved that a while back and no longer recall the details exactly. There are some things I haven't figured out how to do either so we're in the same boat. I did use it for 440 miles between Beatty, NV and So. Lake Tahoe and it did fairly well, except I haven't figured out how to get it to give up on a route that it likes and take a different one. Soon though. Anyway, onto your issue...somehow, find your way to the 'Navigation Menu'. Tap 'Destination'. Then tap, 'History'. Then tap the little trash can to delete that address it's going to. Alternately, you can tap 'Route Options' and then tap 'Cancel route'. That should do it. That's how I usually do it. But in general, everything you need to do can be adjusted from that first 'Navigation Menu' page. Then the nuts and bolts of the device are on the bottom of that page. The Erlenmeyer flask icon and the crossed screwdriver and wrench icon let you set up things to your liking. Find that menu, and you'll be an expert in no time. I do like the large colorful screen and the way they present upcoming turns, show the road I'm on, label POIs etc. I still think it was worth the $50 I spent for it.
Jim@HiTek 05/11/17 06:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help. Converting Auto park Brake to manual lever

Oh, my. Grab yourself a set of chocks immediately or ASAP. Meanwhile, jamb some 4X4's under the wheels, all around. You've got a dangerous situation there with the Autopark brake and leaking oil with the AP light on is not to be ignored.
Jim@HiTek 05/05/17 09:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Evaporust actually works

That stuff is just Naval jelly AKA Phosphoric Acid. If you paint Phosphoric Acid on a Cats ass it will pass a freight train. HAH! Cracked me up. The thing is guys, if you look at the bottle the OP shows in his post, it says it's not an acid, and has a neutral Ph. So...it's not Naval Jelly.
Jim@HiTek 05/05/17 09:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help. Converting Auto park Brake to manual lever

Start here: Oldusedbear web site... for help with the Autopark brake system. He's a wealth of knowledge and willingly helps people who call him. Give him a call. I've seen a long posting with pictures made by someone who completely changed his Autopark brake system to a manual system with a pull lever next to the driver, on the left. But you'll have to search for that yourself.
Jim@HiTek 05/05/17 08:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Caulking Roof

Many people plastic chisel up as much of the old Dicor as they can, and then cover the area with Eternabond tape (Amazon carries it in several widths). If you have a Winnie type fiberglass roof, which are known to loosen on the edges, wind gets under the thin fiberglass, and rips part of the roof off. So you might consider using 2" Eternabond tape in the J-channel along the edges to prevent that problem. Also, many people use 4" Ebond to seal the front and end cap to the roof. Here's a link to my blog where I did just that as PM: Fiberglass roof Preventative Maintenance.
Jim@HiTek 05/05/17 08:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Muffler needs replacing

I think you should get 2nd or 3rd estimates.
Jim@HiTek 05/05/17 08:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Used DP Pre-purchase Inspection

NRVIA Certified is how I've seen it. Link to their site.
Jim@HiTek 05/05/17 08:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stability Product Evaluation...

I'm trying to figure how they'd help in 30mph cross winds. Spoilers or not the RV bod is a sail. Why on earth would you be driving in 30mph cross winds? We often drive in winds like that, in fact we did on our way home this Monday. We still have jobs so unfortunately we don't have the option of pulling over if it gets windy...or rainy, or any other crappy weather. With that said, I understand what you were saying, and I can say Newmars Comfort Drive has made driving in those conditions pretty much a non-issue. It would be interesting to see if the addition of V spoilers or air tabs would add. Ahh. Yeah, a job. Have not had to drive anywhere in conditions I didn't want to drive in in many decades. AFA whether the V-Spoilers would help in those conditions would be interesting to test. I've only had them on during winds from various directions of 12-18 per the weather service. Funny, yesterday I got a new neighbor here at the Beatty RV park, older Winnie around the age of mine. And it also has the spoilers installed. They look factory installed. They're all colorized to match the body paint. A couple are broken and the color goes through the plastic, not just painted on.
Jim@HiTek 05/05/17 08:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stability Product Evaluation...

I'm trying to figure how they'd help in 30mph cross winds. Spoilers or not the RV bod is a sail. Why on earth would you be driving in 30mph cross winds? Jim what effect did the spoilers have on your fuel millage? It's only been 600 miles so can't really say. But the stability improvements are impressive enough that I'm not looking at that much.
Jim@HiTek 05/04/17 06:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stability Product Evaluation...

Jim, my experience is when I buy new tires...my SUV feels wonderful on that drive home but is it the new tires or me thinking the SUV feels better? When I have my oil changed is my SUV more peppy or is it me thinking... And when I buy something new its the "best" cuzz I bought it? hmmmm Before, during 13 years of full timing on the road in two different Class A rigs, I had definite issues keeping the rig in the center of the lane when there was wind. With both my old rig, and this newer one I have now. After the V-Spoilers, don't hardly feel the winds, best description of the feeling while driving is that it's 'smooth', and am not forced to correct the steering as much. Passing semis going the opposite direction on two lane roads is like they're not even there. That was not true before. Of course, you're certainly entitled to ignore my entire evaluation. I didn't have to pay for them, btw.
Jim@HiTek 05/04/17 02:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: HWH jack going up slow

I have had an expirience where one jack was stuck somewhat extended. Extended it all the way and sprayed with silicone and it retracted quickly and fully afterwards. The rear jack that's furthest from the tank was always slow retracting and in that case, I had the springs (2 ea jack) replaced on both rears. Now all four retract quickly...as long as I remember to spray them occasionally. You do not have to spray anything on HWH jacks to get them to retract. Of course, that is cheaper than really fixing them, which involve either rebuilding or replacing the cylinders. Doug That was on my way out of the Mexican RV park I was staying at, on the first day of my trip back to the US. The right front jack would not finish retracting and was about 2" exposed. I extended it a bit and tried to retract but it stopped at about 1". Tried to pry it with a 1"X2" but it wouldn't budge. Extended it quite a way, sprayed it with lubricant, and pressed retract. That time in went all the way up. And off I drove. That was 700 odd miles ago and numerous stops extending the jacks. That one has gone up quite nicely each time. I was able to use my '94 PowerGear jacks for 12 years without removing and rebuilding them, I'll probably be able to do the same with these HWH I have now. So far, so good, after a year and 2 months with them.
Jim@HiTek 05/04/17 01:55pm Class A Motorhomes
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