RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 185 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 10  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Camping Weird er World...

Folks here say avoid Camping World and use a local dealer. Her in NC, a majority of the local dealers have become Camping World in recent years. Does this mean overnight the sales and service went downhill? It's hard to imagine painting CW as the place not to go. These were the mom and pop dealers not long ago that succumbed to the economic downturn years ago and agreed to be "sponsored". Not trying to get an argument going, I just don't understand how they can be so bad and stay in business. Yes, I have read a couple occasions where CW took over a local dealership and service quality suffered as a result. I have read the opposite too. For areas where a 'majority' of them have become CWs, I don't know? But I do know if I needed service anywhere in the US I'd quickly check RVServiceReviews.com (RVSR) before going to any CW. Even if I was just across the street from CW. Just heard far too many horror stories about CW over the last 14 years to ever take my RV to them. RVSR is my go to resource for service when on the road. Sometimes I'll have to drive a few miles to get to a good shop, but it's better than going to a chain that has consistently bad reviews. Other than being a fan and user of RVServiceReviews, I have no association with them.
Jim@HiTek 02/10/16 08:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camping Weird er World...

Run, don't walk, straight out of Camping World. Very bad after the sale reputation. Seems none of their techs know how to do anything correctly on a RV. Check with RVServicereviews.com and see if their repair shop is listed there. That may give you some insight.
Jim@HiTek 02/04/16 12:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Coachmen Cross Country

I spent 4 hours yesterday touring and inspecting. And driving the rig. I've decided to let this one go. Too many big ticket items that aren't right. Most of the drivers side clear coat is crazed. The genset only has 190 hours on it. No maintenance records for the genset or the engine. Main awning has some weird things going on, including tears at one end and the edge is ruined on the other. Drove really nice. Just too many issues so I will say no thanks to this one. Thanks for the input!
Jim@HiTek 01/30/16 03:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Coachmen Cross Country

I'm surprised there hasn't been many responses from other owners of the Coachmen line of coaches. There's lots of them out there. I went and spent 3.5 hours touring and test driving the '06 Coachmen I mentioned above and yeah, the fit and finish leaves some to be desired but the road worthiness seems fine. With only 15,000 miles, and $7K below low book, I'm strongly leaning towards it as my last RV. Sure would like to hear from more owners though...
Jim@HiTek 01/29/16 07:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Coachmen Cross Country

I took a test drive of a '04, single slide, Coachmen today and although I wasn't impressed with this particular unit, too many issues, like the steps didn't retract, most of the dash gauges didn't work, there was a loooooong shift when speeding up on the road, I did like the fit and finish, the cabnetry (pretty much the same as my Bounder), the nice comfy ride which was also quiet, and the engine access under the bed. Oh, and the look of the single living room slide. Really sounded and looked like it could live a while. I'll be looking at the '06 on Friday so I'm still looking for advice and stories on the Coachmen brand. Thanks! Moisheh, I respect your opinion a lot. Any more insight? I can still walk away from this deal. Btw, he's asking $7,000 less then low NADA. And it's the flat floor 376ds. I'm the first potential buyer that hasn't low balled him.
Jim@HiTek 01/27/16 06:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Coachmen Cross Country

Yeah, I'm aware of that...it's the cosmetic parts that would be difficult to replace, like the front cap or rear cap or plastic surrounds in the wheel wells...that sort of thing is difficult to find if the manufacturer isn't able to sell the molds before they go out of business or if the new owners don't want any of the old stock.
Jim@HiTek 01/26/16 10:21pm Class A Motorhomes
2006 Coachmen Cross Country

Asking for input on the Coachmen brand in 2006. I'm considering buying one with only 15,000 miles, 300hp Cummins, 40 footer. What does everyone think of the Coachmen quality? I know it's an orphan now as Forest River bought them in '08 but doesn't help out with any of the older models but as long as I don't need anything major, shouldn't be a big problem...but I don't know. Do you Coachmen owners with some miles on them recommend them? Thanks!
Jim@HiTek 01/26/16 01:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Huge Electricity Bill - Plot Thickens

I agree with Byrogie. And my experience is that the power company has no issue with adjusting the bill if they find a new reading doesn't jive with what they had initially.
Jim@HiTek 01/26/16 12:49pm General RVing Issues
RE: Chassis Battery Isolator switch not activating Chassis

You are welcome, Danny. BTW, I carry some fine sandpaper and a small set of fine files I use to 'refurbish' solenoid contacts. Doing so gives much longer life to them then just spray cleaner. Good luck!
Jim@HiTek 12/23/15 08:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Chassis Battery Isolator switch not activating Chassis

Ah HAH! Solar. Forgot that one, good catch CA Traveler. Bet it was the solar panel power causing the arcing.
Jim@HiTek 12/22/15 04:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar charger but still dead batteries

There are so many parasitic draws on modern RVs that I wouldn't even bother trying to track them down. Like the radio memory and the safety circuits and the engine & tranni computers. And most of those bypass the salesman's switches. I just disconnect the NEG cables on both sets of batts when I park and if it's going to be more than 3 days. BTW, most optional solar panels, on top of the AC, are 8 Watt. Not enough to electrocute a flea.
Jim@HiTek 12/22/15 04:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Chassis Battery Isolator switch not activating Chassis

@Dannyhawk101 Without knowing what kind of RV you have, we'd just be shooting in the dark but if it's a Class A, I've only heard of Gensets being powered by the onboard batteries, either the house or chassis set and usually the chassis. So if you've disconnected both the house and chassis battery negatives, you'll not get an arc. That's not to say a previous owner (you don't mention an age of your RV either) didn't install a separate battery just for the genset for boondocking reasons. However, if you were still plugged into shore power, then yeah, you'll probably get an arc from something in there.
Jim@HiTek 12/22/15 04:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Filling Batteries

Adding 2 oz of mineral oil (3 in 1 oil) to each cell prevents corrosion and decreases the need to add any water for years (depending on ambient temps). The oil greatly reduces maintenance requirements. But they should be checked a couple times a year regardless. Doesn't hurt to check the converter and alternator too.
Jim@HiTek 12/22/15 03:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Chassis Battery Isolator switch not activating Chassis

I guess I'm lucky. Mine have been cleaned once and are at least 22 years old.
Jim@HiTek 12/20/15 09:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Chassis Battery Isolator switch not activating Chassis

The battery disconnect solenoids are easily opened and the contacts cleaned. Assuming you have the top hat type solenoids in your BCC.
Jim@HiTek 12/20/15 10:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I jinxed myself. Now I have a water heater problem.

There's another thing that causes the random pump operation...you know the two showers most RV's have? If the gate valves are ON and the head valve is OFF, that could make the pump run periodically. Check both the bath tub shower head and the dog washer out in the wet basement compartment.
Jim@HiTek 12/19/15 05:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: microwave

I was just visiting a fellow RV'er who removed his original '88 MW and replaced it with a convection/MW oven. Then he got a small MW and installed it in another cabinet over the dinette. Excellent work, they look like original installed equipment. Not much help, other than to say that there is bound to be something out there that will fit your needs, probably exactly...
Jim@HiTek 12/16/15 11:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Windshield repair - Where in Florida?

Chips aren't usually repaired. No need. Unless it's located in the path of the wipers......in which case it tends to eat a notch in the rubber and cause a BAD streak. And, at least in Massachusetts, will cause you to fail the yearly vehicle inspection. I had 5 rock dings in the wiper path and called Safelite. They won't repair more than 2. I bought the RainX repair kit and a black light and did it myself. Have the stuff with me on the road in case I get another. You should move over here to the Best Coast. Won't have to deal with that kind of silliness. :)
Jim@HiTek 12/15/15 06:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Low beams headlights not working

Check for broken or corroded through terminals at the relays under the hood. It sounds like this shop has no clue how to do electrical testing, I'd move on, quickly.
Jim@HiTek 12/15/15 11:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Windshield repair - Where in Florida?

Chips aren't usually repaired. No need. If there are spider cracks radiating out from it, then yeah, need to repair that. On Edit: I should expand on this I guess. A rock chip will not grow bigger. We're talking about a roundish, smooth hole in the glass. Even if it goes all the way through. Temporarily, in a rain storm, just put packing tape on the inside. When it's dry, just put clear silicon over the chipped out area. That's all that's needed. But, like I mentioned, if there are cracks radiating away from the chip, you do need to have that repaired or DIY. I'd just check the local handyman listings on Craigslist or in the local paper. It shouldn't run more the $50-$70...and your insurance will cover that if you want. And no points against you with most insurance companies. IMO, $125 is too much, unless they're driving over 20 miles or so.
Jim@HiTek 12/15/15 11:31am Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 10  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2016 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS