100 PSI sounds perfect, but won't hurt to run up to 110 either. You should only use your own manufacturer's chart. No one elses. Other manufacturer's charts do not apply in any way.
You are good to go. IMO only of course.
Having been full timing for 11 years now, I've run into most of the issues you all have mentioned in those fancy parks where they sell lots.
And there's one thing I've learned, the older parks where there are more rental lots then purchased lots seem to be the better places for me anyway. Friendly people with a live and let live attitude. Rules of course, but gently and sanely enforced.
I decided long ago that I wouldn't ever buy one of those lots and be tied down to one place forever. Get itchy feet too often.
I don't know about Ohio, but many states allow you to do that at the weigh stations. They leave the electronics on 24/7 so if they aren't open you can still use the platforms. Then many state officials allow you to weigh your rig if they are open but not busy. It's a SAFETY issue and they shouldn't object in any event. In Florida, you can go to a police station and get 4-corner weighings (if they have the equipment), or they'll send someone to you. Need to call to set up an appointment.
Here's phone numbers for Ohio, give them a call and ask: Ohio weight stations...
In Oregon, they are left on, and OFTEN but not always, depending on the design of the platform, I can do a four corner weighing by driving two on, than one off, front and rear. And subtracting.
Down near the floor in the kitchen is an electronic propane gas detector. If it's turned off, like if someone clipped the Off/On switch with the vacuum cleaner for instance, you won't have gas.
As others have said, make sure the tank valve is on too. And that there's propane in there.
Your first step should probably be to get your four corners weighed.
Once you have those numbers, there's two things to do:
1) If one corner or side has more than the RV manufacturer's recommended 'differential' in weight one side to the other, then you need to rearrange your things to try to balance the weight on that axle. (I believe this number is 10% of the RV's total weight...for example, if the RV weighs 25,000 lbs, then the differential should be less than 250 lbs, don't quote me though...check your manual). There are cases where the house manufacturer did a poor job getting this differential low in the design, and that's when all those add on products for 'stability' come in.
2) Go to the tire manufacturer's website and air up the tires to their specs for the weight. And, the advice given earlier about setting each tire to the pressure suggested for the weight at that corner is incorrect. Set the pressure to the highest weight setting across the AXLE. So all tires on that axle have the same pressure, based on the highest weight.
Once that's done, test drive on a road where you can drive in the fast lane a few miles rather than the truck lane. This avoids the ruts caused by 10's of thousands of trucks traveling that road.
Rut tracking has often caused folks to think they need an alignment when actually, it's a tire, tire pressure, or balance problem.
Perhaps you do have an alignment problem, but you should at least check these other simple things first by getting four corner weights. Usually, you can do that on a weekend at a state weigh station. They leave the equipment on even when they are closed. Many states will allow you to get weighed when they're open too. Some aren't designed for 4-corner weighing though.
Sure think it might be repairable.
I'd clean it up real well, then I'd cut a strip of Eternabond to wrap around the exterior making a brand new surface. That covers the crack of course. Might give 10 more years of life to the coupler. Who knows?
That's how I'd do it until I could find the right coupler.
Sounds like something going on there isn't normal. But, whatever, one way to reduce the corrosion is to put 2 oz of 3-in-1 oil (mineral oil) in each cell. That keeps the 'bubbles' that boil off the plates from casting acid into the air space above the liquid level, and escaping out of the vents.
Tada! No corrosion.
Boy, I don't know, RV Daytrader. Don't think it has a 'special' name.
I filled out the online form and it asked what value to put on it. After the paint job, the insurance expired while I wasn't paying attention so filled out the form again, same VIN and all, but $4,000 more value. (Nada didn't really come into it that I recall).
They didn't object. So...
Naturally, I'd expect them to deny a full value cash payment over high book if it's totalled, even if I'd set the 'fair market value' thousands over.
Ask yourself...if the engine blew, and had to be rebuilt, and you put in $10,000 for just that job alone, would you still like the rig?
That's all that's really important. If you'd like it as much after putting that much more money into it.
These rigs aren't an investment. They're a lifestyle.
Funny. I'm guessing that the actuarial tables got changed significantly in your favor. This happens throughout the industry but it's rare enough that people notice and let us know. If it had only gone down $25, you probably wouldn't have told us.
I had Geico for a year. The next year they wanted to up my yearly by over $100. Changed to Progressive and they haven't budged from the $290 per year they started with 6 years ago. This is a policy where I set my own retail price for 'totalling' the rig and I did increase the value after the paint job but only $4,000. And still no increase in rate.
So, I'm a Progressive fan too!
I had the same reservations when I drove over that route in a 37' Class A without a towed. It was fine. Couldn't understand what the fuss was about. I was heading to Silverton thru Durango and the climb into Silverton was much more of a trial.
BTW, try to stop in Silverton. What a fun town for a RV tourist. RV parks there, most of the town is walkable. Historic. Take the train ride into Durango and the bus back. That's lots of fun. Beautiful scenery in Silverton. I stayed a week and loved the place.
That's what I thought msmith, that's why I quickly exited the dealership.
BTW, I'd been in other new Rexhall's that morning with the slides extended. The bed was up in the two I toured with their slides in. I certainly asked the guy about it, and he's the one that told me they have to be up when the slides were in...even while traveling.
You are low on oil, or as Accumack mentions you have a loose connection. You have run enough tests proving that the keypad and controller are both good, so look for something else.
BTW, if the lights 'flash' on the unit, the fuse is definitely good, no need to even check it.
When my Power Gear shows the symptom of just the light flashing once when I turn on the key, I switch off the key, pull the rig out of gear and jamb it into Park. Then try the key again. Or if that doesn't work, then go out and check the oil. One time I found that symptom was caused by a broken wire on the main solenoid.
There's a Rexhall Dealer just down the road from me in Lancaster, Calif. They still seem to be in business. Haven't changed their name or anything.
Two years ago I went and spent a morning touring all their rigs. I was the only customer there. When someone on the skeleton crew spotted me, the owner himself came out to trail me around the lot.
They had two units with the slides in I got to tour. Stupid design, IMO. The BED had to be lifted or it would smoosh into the opposite wall when you remotely pulled in the slides! Ruining it. Crunching the bed frame.
Then, some idiot thought it fashionable that the couches have that dumb half moon extension on one end of the couch that sticks out into the walkway. What happens when you have the slide closed because of weather or travel? You have to jump or climb over the stupid thing. The slide in also covered the doors of the refer so you can't make a sandwich on the road. And the worse thing was that you couldn't use the toilet with the slides in.
There was also an extensive use of Ultraleather...which of course is plastic and terribly uncomfortable most of the year. Guess they are all using that now because people think it's real leather. Names like Ultraleather, Leatherette, or Koskin Leather, are all fake leather. My guide told me that I couldn't order real leather, not available. Too expensive I guess.
But that was two years ago. Maybe Rexhall has changed their design. I wouldn't have one though. Mainly because of the poor quality, construction, and design.
I just squirt some oil, or spray some lithium here and there on the steps moving mechanism and I'm done for another two years. Steps are 21 years old with no signs of giving up. There was that one time I chose to take apart the gearbox and refresh the grease.
But, too each his own I guess.
Eggactly. Doug is correct as usual.
The thing is that plug would not fit a campground 30A outlet for RVs even if it had a round ground...because the angle of the two active legs is different for RV 30A plugs. (One is hot, 120V, the other neutral).
RV plugs and sockets, 30A, are different enough that they have their own designation. They are designated with a TT (for travel trailer).
The 50A plugs and sockets for RVs are the same as home/business appliances though.
Whoa! The first thing to do is verify your salesman's switches are on. Never crawl under the rig to lube anything without disconnecting the battery. People have ended up in the hospital from a step extending while they are under it. Also read about people losing or almost losing fingers.