RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 256 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 13  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Quick question on slides...

Oh, good thinking. Don't have a DW, but do have a DB (dumb brother) who could do that for me. I don't often think of finding help after 12 years of full timing alone. Thanks for the tip, I'll do exactly that.
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 01:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Cooling, Propane vs. Electric

If you turn it off whenever you return from a trip, you'll likely get 7 to 10 years of useful life so I always leave mine plugged in and on all the time. The pluses for leaving it plugged in and running continuously (it's ready to go when you are!) far outweigh the minimal power usage. Your batteries are always ready too. As far as which method cools fastest? Never saw a much of a difference those few times I had to shut it off. But my gut feeling is for my Dometic, gas was faster. Slightly. My Norcold? Seems faster with electric. I'd tend to agree that there's not enough difference to be concerned. That "minimal power usage" of an RV fridge is somewhere in the rough vicinity of 2000 kWh per year, or perhaps $400 for the year depending on your electric rate. Maybe that's minimal to some people, but it's more than enough for me to shut it off when not in use and start it up (or do without) before taking a trip. For a quick trip, I usually just toss perishable food into a cooler and dump in the ice from my (house) freezer. From my calculations for my refer in my RV surviving my lifestyle, it isn't so high. Two door refer, 1 person usage, 3 amp when calling for cold, 8 hours/day average On time (I avoid hot areas), $0.085/kWh rate. For me, it comes out to around $90 per year.
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 01:18pm Class A Motorhomes
Quick question on slides...

Had to park on a slight incline...nose up. Dropped the jacks and leveled as best I could. Extended the LR slide. Except for the slight droop downhill in the LR, all seems normal. The rubbers did protest a little more than normal when I extended but I thought that might be due to the low humidity. No grinding or metal on metal scraping noise when I extended. I opened the basement compartment that comes out with the slide (under the table and chairs towards the rear of the LR) and found the rearmost gas strut was detached from it's bracket? Inspecting the ball joint and bracket assembly I see it's bent almost 90°. WTH? I do vaguely remember a loud snap or pop when I was setting up so perhaps that's when it caught on the frame...though I cannot find any damage corresponding to that bracket on the chassis frame. I bent it back into position so it's working OK, but here's my question: Assuming that the damage is because the RV isn't perfectly level front to back, and the bracket caught on the chassis because of that, how do I avoid further damage when I leave this spot tomorrow? 1) Can I pull the slide in to within 2" say, drive the 100 feet necessary to find a flat spot in this neighborhood and then bring it all the way in? (My users guide doesn't mention if that's even possible except it does have a procedure to follow that talks about driving with a slide extended). 2) Just go for broke and pull it all the way in before moving the rig? Any suggestions? '02 Winnebago Journey DL - DSDP. My first expirience with slides.
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 12:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator has spark, then it's gone....?

Going by memory here but I think most of the Onan's have a shut down system that removes spark if certain things don't happen while it's cranking. You can find user's guides for them online. Also, these troubleshooting guides are very handy: Troubleshooting Onan Gensets
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 10:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Cooling, Propane vs. Electric

If you turn it off whenever you return from a trip, you'll likely get 7 to 10 years of useful life so I always leave mine plugged in and on all the time. The pluses for leaving it plugged in and running continuously (it's ready to go when you are!) far outweigh the minimal power usage. Your batteries are always ready too. As far as which method cools fastest? Never saw a much of a difference those few times I had to shut it off. But my gut feeling is for my Dometic, gas was faster. Slightly. My Norcold? Seems faster with electric. I'd tend to agree that there's not enough difference to be concerned.
Jim@HiTek 04/24/16 10:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane pilot not igniting

I would agree with the posts about checking your 'thermal fuse'. It's a small device inline with power to the DSI module and is covered with a black sheath. It's a high temp device but they often just age out even if it never got too hot. You can just take it out of the circuit, plug the two leads into each other (short it out of the circuit), and test without it. Won't hurt anything if you leave it out for a trip. IMO! Also note old-biscuit's point about the re-settable kind.
Jim@HiTek 04/23/16 10:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel Leak ... need mobile diesel mechanic

The banjo connection that was leaking in my case is just to the left of #9 in your drawing. The entire job, was only $250 or so. I'm well aware (now) that I was over charged as it only took the tech 2 hours @ $68/hr and the part was $25, oh, and the travel charge, so really, wasn't over charged. My son had actually spotted the leak, but I felt more comfortable hiring someone. Additionally, the tech 'thought' that my in-the-tank fuel pump was 'weak', whatever that means. I just installed a 8 GPM pump myself right below the lift pump in the fuel hose from the water separator and it's still working fine. Anyway, Mr. Wizard, good luck!
Jim@HiTek 04/21/16 08:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel Leak ... need mobile diesel mechanic

My '94 5.9 Cummins developed a leak and following the dribbling diesel fuel took the mobile tech to a Banjo connection on top of the engine that fed the fuel rail, just above the lift pump. Changed that, and all has been well for 87,000 miles. So if you can, try to find and follow the fuel. BTW, this was back in '04, and they went to low sulfur diesel soon after that. I read lots of forum postings about lift pump leaks but never had one myself...don't think they applied to my mechanic lift pump.
Jim@HiTek 04/21/16 03:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: steering stabalizers

You may find as you get used to driving a Class A the perceived handling issues will diminish. X2. Also, when you're on the road, watch nearby semi trucks. Those cost many times what a RV does and if they're wandering the roadway, then it's likely your RV is fine and it's just that day's weather or the roadways condition. One thing I check is truck ruts in the slow lane. If I'm wandering the roadway, I'll move over to the speed lane (traffic permitting) to check if it's better over there.
Jim@HiTek 04/18/16 12:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

Brett did make a good point, Smitty. And something I'll keep in mind no matter what I choose. Thanks for the anecdote. And yes, I do need to get a 4 corner weigh-in. No where around here that I know of does them though...Rosamond, CA.
Jim@HiTek 04/18/16 12:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

The original wheels are steel, and the Winnie tire tag recommends 100 PSI and the tires I'm looking at are rated MAX 110 PSI, so I think I'm good on wheel pressure rating.
Jim@HiTek 04/17/16 01:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shore Power Question

My '94 DP Bounder did NOT have that feature. I had to add a $20 Schumacher charger. So my Bounder did not come with the BIRD. It was optional in '94 Bounders.
Jim@HiTek 04/16/16 06:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

I have a 2002 Itasca Horizon 39QD and have been running the 275/70/22.5 Michelin XzA2 energy with great results. I run them around 90-95psi due to the higher load range. My rear tires are 445/50/22.5 single tires. Love them. Make sure you pay attention to the rolling resistance- as it will make a difference in your MPG. I've averaged 8.7-8.8 with the CAT 330HP over the last few years and I usually tow a car or trailer... 445/50/22.5? That's 17.5" wide. How'd you fit those on the rear axle and still have room between tires? Oh, wait, I get it. OK. Also, they're $757 each, plus 2 new wide wheels. I'm trying to save money... :)
Jim@HiTek 04/16/16 05:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan Geneator

Here's the best troubleshooting guides I've found:Flight Systems
Jim@HiTek 04/16/16 05:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

According to the specs I find, all three sizes, 10R, 11R, & 235/80R, can use a rim with a width of 7.50". And my RVs tire tag shows I have 7.50" width. So I'm good there. The question is whether the increased diameter, almost 4" more, can be accommodated by the wheel well of a '02 Winnie Journey DL? Anyone done this?
Jim@HiTek 04/16/16 10:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: SLIDE LEAK FROM HELL

the slide seal on my 98 Beaver went bad and there was water everywhere when it rained.......a close look at the seal revealed that it was torn in a number of places. I bought a rollof 6" or 8" wide neoprene from Rubber Roll Co. and replaced the whole seal. It was about a three day job, but in the end it was tight, open or closed. I cannot find a Rubber Roll Co online with a search. Can you be more specific? Thanks.
Jim@HiTek 04/15/16 08:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: SLIDE LEAK FROM HELL

You can build your own pressure tester based on your situation. It's just a leaf blower (electric) grey taped to a sealed form that forces air under pressure into a room. Like into your bedroom. Then someone on the roof has some water with a little soap in it and pours it around the roof looking for bubbles.
Jim@HiTek 04/15/16 06:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: DP chassis repair

Check RVServiceReviews.com for shops in your area or on your travel route. Last place I'd go is Freightliner if I was paying for it.
Jim@HiTek 04/15/16 06:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

Ahh. Hadn't considered that one, Brett. With this newer RV, I'm wondering how much longer I can be driving the 7,300 miles per year I have been. I put 87,000 miles on my last RV. On the one hand, I'm older. On the other, this RV is so much easier to drive, more comfortable, quieter, peppier, easier to heat and cool, etc., that I'm thinking maybe another 8 years. And if I'm going to do that, I want to save money on tires. On my last RV, I wore out 3 steer sets and 2 drive sets of 19.5 tires over 12 years. Over those years, had one tire replaced due to sidewall damage, and one tire replaced due to split casing between threads...only blowout I had over those 12 years. The replacements I did were due to the tires being worn down to much for my liking.
Jim@HiTek 04/15/16 06:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steer tire width...

So what that tells me is that the 11R or 10R tires will give me more miles before replacement based just on revs per mile, but would the 4" increased diameter make much difference in handling (steer tires only)?
Jim@HiTek 04/15/16 01:16pm Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 13  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2016 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS