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 > Your search for posts made by 'Jim@HiTek' found 415 matches.

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RE: Are we having an early snowbird season?

Maybe over there in the east or midwest, but the last 3 months, as I slowly worked my way south from eastern Oregon to Baja Mexico, I did not see any over crowding of RV parks. In fact, I thought I'd missed some bad news somewhere about RV'ing or that would affect RV'ing. And here in Mexico, this park was crowded last winter, this year, practically empty. And no flurry of bad news this year that I'm aware of.
Jim@HiTek 12/14/17 06:21pm Snowbirds
RE: Jayco class c

Just a warning to maybe do some extra surfing on the Jayco brand. I recall many complaints on the several forums I frequent about the poor quality...and then the difficulty of getting Jayco to pay up for warranty service. Maybe talk to the service managers of nearby RV dealers. Just walk up and ask them what they think of the Jayco brand. Or better yet, a tech or two. Search the internet. Just went to google and typed "complaints about Jayco". Here's some complaints: Complaints about Jayco It's the type, quantity, and manufacturers helpfulness that should drive your choice. All manufacturers will get complaints.
Jim@HiTek 12/14/17 06:15pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: How to secure screws in plywood going with grain??

What I'd do is head to a lumber store and get a length of hardwood dowel twice the diameter of the screw I intended to use. This all depends on how thick the plywood edge you're drilling into is. This was my first thought. But the epoxy may be worth trying, especially if you can use longer screws. (I can see the image, it's a cow standing in a field. :)) It's a white cow, standing in a field, in a snow storm.
Jim@HiTek 12/14/17 05:31pm Tech Issues
RE: How to secure screws in plywood going with grain??

What I'd do is head to a lumber store and get a length of hardwood dowel twice the diameter of the screw I intended to use. Drill a tight fit hole for the dowel(s) in the same holes that were used before, slather it with plenty of carpenters glue, tap the dowel(s) into the hole(s), cut them off flush. Give the glue 24 hours to dry. Then use a drill bit almost the same size as the new SS screws I was going to use to pre-drill the holes for use by the screws. Then use plastic washers maybe if the plastic sheet got damaged and the holes were torn a bit. This all depends on how thick the plywood edge you're drilling into is. You do want some plywood on either side of the dowels of course. It's the glue that will do the work of holding things together in the wood. Some measurements and a picture or three of your situation would really help get more answers. (The image above is blank).
Jim@HiTek 12/14/17 04:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Air conditioning

There is a thriving 'teardrop' trailer industry right now with all these people looking for tiny homes and whatnot. I forget the brand but there is one that comes with an optional room AC in the front wall. Others have the traditional rooftop AC like RVs have. Than they have a trap door in the back to open up onto a kitchen. All sorts of tiny things inside these things these days. Including forced air electrical heaters if you'll be RV Park camping, or propane if not and you plan on some cold weather camping. So maybe search for teardrop trailers?
Jim@HiTek 12/14/17 04:20pm Folding Trailers
RE: Another tire question

Have thought for many years as a forum member and full timer, that the Michelin's were and are a scam more than anything. The cracks are due to their rubber formulations and they can change that any time they want. Of course they don't because there a far too many who swear by Michelin's even though they don't deserve it and they tend to get replacements far too early. Others are tricked by unscrupulous dealers who don't point out all the other brands that have a similar enough size that it can be a direct replacement. To avoid that trap, here's sizing chart you can use to compare sizes of tires: Tire Size Calculator I've set it up with a common Michelin size compared to a competing brand - note the slight differences in actual sizes. Not enough difference to ever worry about. Toyo's at $291 currently on Amazon have that 245-75r22.5 size. I've read some of the Michelin specs and white papers about their RV products and they give a length and depth of cracks that are acceptable (smaller and shallow are OK), and also give a procedure for how old is too old (I forget...8 years I think? Then you are supposed to have them checked by a professional once per year up to 10 years, I forget the details, but there's no need to toss them at a magical 7 years like some do). If they are within specs, then I believe they'd be fine. You can come to your own conclusions.
Jim@HiTek 12/14/17 04:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: upgrade HWH 325 system to auto leveling

Don't know the answer to your question but from an engineering standpoint, it sounds like a fun project. But expensive. Here's a link to the PDF for your system: HWH 325 Jack System A quick browse through that didn't turn up any 'optional' setup or additional equipment for 'Auto level' so you're looking at some new and expensive parts, plus all the wiring, plus expert installation, or a DIY'er type with mechanical & electrical expertise. First step would be to call HWH and ask them if it can be done, what parts you need, the part numbers of the modules you'd need, etc. Than you can call RV salvage yards and try to track down the parts, cables, and connectors needed. Not impossible a project, but involved.
Jim@HiTek 12/13/17 08:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Easiest to service RV in Mexico?

I've driven a 35' Class A diesel all over Mexico in big cities and small villages and after the first couple of trips, never worried about being stranded in Mexico. As I've learned to say, the Mexican mechanics know how to do anything with nothing. I've seen a total diesel engine topside rebuild in a Mazatlan RV park, major suspension work across the border from McAllen on two different Class C's, a van engine repair in some little village in the Yucatan, tire replacement in a remote village along the Mx-15d highway, painting in all areas. Have had much work done on my RV's including a complete paint job, roof repairs, jack spring replacements, brake jobs, engine work, etc., etc.. All of this stuff was done in RV parks. There is really nothing to worry about if you're never in a hurry. It can take time to arrange for, than supervise mechanical work down here. I've been coming to Mexico for several months of the year for nearly 13 years now, and I plan my necessary mechanical work for when I'm down here. Cost is 1/4 to 1/3 as much as the US. For reliability though, I'd recommend diesel, and to pull a car, the bigger engine in a Class A would be better...though I have seen many newer Class C's pulling cars.
Jim@HiTek 12/13/17 08:31am RVing in Mexico and South America
RE: Looking for an "A" @ the Greensboro NC Rv show.

You can search dealers by state and town using RVServiceReviews Reading a bunch of reviews of dealers service departments will tell you a lot about how ethical they are after the sale. You can also just do a google search for a certain dealer and there will be reviews (usually) available in the search results. There's bound to be a document online listing the participating dealers so you can research before you go.
Jim@HiTek 12/11/17 03:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hot water element replacement

Old Biscuit Model Number GC6AA-9E Serial number 961424047657 Jim, you misunderstood the post. I have not yet found where the element is located, but thanks for the advice anyway. I thought you were talking about a bad heater element in your Atwood tank that is installed at the factory, and wired up by the RV manufacturer? A device situated in the back of the tank so it's hard to get to? If that's the case, I was suggesting a backup plan that for under $100 you can add an aftermarket heater element in the drain hole, accessible from the outside, powered with an extension cord, so you don't need to replace the OEM electrical heater element until it's convenient for you. I'm a full timer and seldom stay in a town that has any RV service I'd want to use so having an option is important to me.
Jim@HiTek 12/11/17 03:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hot water element replacement

Perhaps just forget about the bad one, and install an aftermarket heat element in the drain hole?
Jim@HiTek 12/11/17 10:17am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water heater plug

Mine broke too. Took it to a RV dealer and the tech came out with a large screw driver, jammed it into what was left of the plastic plug still in the hole and backed it out in seconds. Didn't charge anything.
Jim@HiTek 12/09/17 09:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water heater plug

I doubt it as the water is what? 180F? Even if the coils were hanging in the empty tank for days with hot water in them, doubt they would fail. Just not hot enough. BTW, most Class A RV's I'm familiar with the water system can withstand 20F weather for many days before you need worry. You didn't tell us the year or brand of RV you have but newer RVs, say from 2000 on, also have PEX plumbing that is much more tolerant of freezing then the older grey stuff. So partially fill the onboard water tank at the first overnight stop you stay at, than fill your water heater tank...your system will be fine. Just do the regular...before bed, turn off the shore water, or turn off the pump if you're boondocking.
Jim@HiTek 12/09/17 09:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

While you consider that Sikaflex, remember that large manufacturers have engineers and procurement agents that negotiate with suppliers. Sometimes to improve or change an off the shelf product to be more applicable to that manufacturers operations or procedures. Or sometimes to cheapen it a bit so it meets their cost structure. So, don't assume the stuff you get off the shelf is the same as what some RV manufacturer might be using. Right?
Jim@HiTek 12/08/17 08:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Yes, they are soft rubber gutters, just the right size for an RV window...fronts included. They stick on the outside above the window frame using that super strong 3M double sided sticky tape and you curve them down the sides of the window frame a couple inches. When it rains, they act like a small rain gutter. So even if your window seal fails over time, or from too much racking when you camp off road, the gutters help keep water out of the walls. BTW, on my RV, you can't even tell that they weren't original. And I see that they now make them in white too.
Jim@HiTek 12/04/17 08:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Here's what I'm using now over the windows, including the front windows, in my '02 Journey. Wish I'd found this stuff before I had those window leaks in my '94 Bounder. Just an extra layer of protection for very little money. They now offer a 25 foot package. Just right for my Class A, 35'. RV Gutter It's pliable, easily cut to length, and really sticks well to clean surfaces. I'd recommend it for over all your windows.
Jim@HiTek 12/04/17 08:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Load sensing proprtioning valve

Is this part of the braking system? If so, there's a long history of manufacturers molding a casting number into the part when it's a brake part. Where your missing actuating lever was might have been previously attached to one of those parts. So look for a casting number, than google it.
Jim@HiTek 12/02/17 08:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Dude, why not get one of those diamond encrusted iron cutting wheels?
Jim@HiTek 12/02/17 07:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Short in house wiring

Have your 'tech' check the patio outlets and the refer outlet. They are outside and can expirience rain leakage or high moisture levels.
Jim@HiTek 11/30/17 08:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: lots of rust on 2008 country coach affinity chassis

Most home improvement stores carry several rust abatement products in the paint departments. I use Jasco from Home Depot, comes in a quart bottle as a liquid. Put it in a spray bottle and go to town on the rust underneath. It's an acid that chemically changes the rust back into metal. Turns it black in most cases. Stabilizes it so you can paint it if you want, I never bothered. I've used it on two RVs now over 13 years of full timing. One had big flakes of rust...chipped those off, than sprayed. A friend used a foam brush instead and her undercarriage looks better than mine. I'm jealous. But the point is that the metal underneath is generally so thick, it would take a century for it to rust though in most areas. The acid treatment slows it to an imperceptible crawl. My '02 Journey was actually in better shape then my '94 Bounder rust wise, and I treated them the same with the Jasco, and then never worried about it again, BUT, I don't drive in the east with their salted roads, either.
Jim@HiTek 11/27/17 07:24pm Class A Motorhomes
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