Amazon sells tires. If you're a prime member, that means they'll ship them free. Takes 5 days for tires. If you have a shop near you that has the equipment to change them out, ask if you can have the tires shipped directly to them. I've used Love's Tire Stores for that over in Oregon.
Many of the older Ace Hardware stores, or older hardware stores in general, have kits of many different sizes of springs.
Also might be possible to find a Cummins shop that might have some obsolete parts still in stock.
In 2004, my 1994 Bounder tail light assembly had rusted out and was beyond repair. Only light that worked was the brake light. I'd spent several leisurely months driving around the countryside after buying that RV and occasionally I'd stop in at small out of the way RV dealers looking for a replacement. Well, one day, I stopped at a 'boat shop' of all places in Milton-Freewater Oregon. And darn if they didn't have the entire backup, running, brake light assembly, for my RV! Cost me $25.
The point is, there's almost always a replacement out there somewhere. And if you're able to limp along with what you have, searching out of the way places for RV parts is not only fun, it's sometimes rewarding.
Better to dust off and nuke the RV from orbit then to rubber coat that roof. But Eternabond on the endcap seams and to replace any of the self-leveling sealant that's aged out would be good.
Oh, I just did my roof not long ago...the endcap seams anyway, here's the write up...Roof work
I'm still able to work up there, for right now anyway. I have to do the side seams here soon (based on age and mileage) with Eternabond, and then replace the self-leveling goop someday. Right now the seals are still in excellent condition.
Pretty sure Mile High is correct.
I've had both types and Eternabond on my '94 helped seal up leaks in the rubber roof, and I've used it on the end cap seams, and will use it along the sidewall seams of my '02 full fiberglass roof.
Thing is that both roof styles have problems and it takes some effort to stay on top of them (heh).
The rubber roofs shrink and tear or get cut. The fiberglass are extra thin and the edge seals or a cut out seal in the roof can fail and wind can get under the roof and rip it right off. I've seen pics here on the forum of fiberglass roofs that were nearly half gone because of wind.
Having had both, I do think the fiberglass is superior, but it's still a maintenance item. I still have the job of running 2" Eternabond along each edge to prevent the roof peeling off in heavy winds.
Here's my blog post about the end cap seam taping...Roof taping...
Huh, 3rd time in 3 days I've had the opportunity to give this advice regarding batteries...
Add 2 oz of mineral oil (3-in-1 oil) to each battery cell, even if you have to turkey baster remove some water. This helps prevent water from being boiled out too quickly and reduces the corrosion present on the tops of most wet cell batteries.
If your converter is going bad though, make sure you get it fixed or replaced. Meanwhile, the oil will help get extra life from the batteries.
Mineral oil has been used for this purpose in wet cell batts for over 100 years now.
Having tried to pick up OTA (off the air) TV for 13 years, I've found that in the western deserts, I can often pick up stations up to 50 miles away. In the hilly, grassy, cornfield midwest, 35 miles is about it. In the forested east coast area, 25 miles is about it. In all these cases, that's the best range, and it's often local conditions that shorten that range even further.
I've been places where I was 8 miles from the transmitter and couldn't get a signal. One time in Flagstaff, parked in a RV park at the base of a giant hill, I could not pick up a station even though there were several station antennas on top of that hill. That I could see from my RV. Lucky that RV park had cable. Stayed in 2 RV parks there in Flagstaff and the pine trees, or power limitations, or directional transmit lobes, played havoc with the strength of the OTA TV signals. Even when you could see the transmitting antennas on the hill off in the distance.
I did upgrade the standard antenna to a 'fringe' high gain style, but there was no change at all. I knew exactly where the transmitting antennas were, had my old antenna set up for them, and was missing 2-3 networks. Installed the new, high gain antenna, and was still missing 2-3 networks. HAH! Waste of money, effort, and time.
So, I'd say, don't bother pouring much money into equipment without being in a place you can actually test, or without having a generous return policy by the seller. I did break down and go with satellite back in August, also went with the DNS (Distance Networking Service, $20/mo extra) program so I get the big 5 networks from LA wherever I am in the satellite footprint.
Good luck, and note if you plan on driving around the country, there's many places you just won't have OTA TV, and those places usually the RV parks supply free cable TV.
If you have a '94 Bounder 'similar' Power Gear leveling system, it might help to check out my blog post. It'll show some pics of the coils. As others have said, the solenoids are 12V so your mechanic, if he didn't try to power the 'drop RV' solenoid but just released pressure, probably didn't check for power or even run a jumper over to the solenoid to power it, which would have dropped the RV.
Power Gear Leveling '94 Bounder...
Not sure you want to hinge the purchase of such an expensive item on one feature. I looked for a table with chairs, found it. I use the dining table as my computer/workbench.
Turned out this RV also had a smaller table behind the passenger's seat that I use for my 2nd computer. Both computers are towers with large monitors. Room for eating is secondary. I carry a folding TV tray for that. Then I have the requisite collection of WiFi ready Android tablets, phones, smart TV's etc. so I have a VPN. Pick up WiFi, port it to my other devices.
Also, I thought for a long time that I could just drive to Amish country near Elkhart, Indiana and have those carpenters build me something if I needed.
Point is, I never tried to find a RV that had a perfect workstation. That gave me many more options as far as floor plan.
I had a similar situation and it turned out to be a Patio outlet got water in it from rain, quietly burnt up and open circuited which caused downstream outlets to not have power. Really a tricky issue because everything I looked at was INSIDE the RV or in a basement compartment and was OK...never occurred to me to look at a patio outlet until someone mentioned it.
Taking a small deposit to 'hold' a vehicle is fairly typical and it's usually pretty small. I've made deposits of $200 on $50,000 vehicles. It's also common to return the deposit if the buyer quickly changes their mind, usually after they have done research on the model. Ask any consignment dealer. Now, if the buyer wants you to hold the unit for weeks, that's a different story...and you keep the deposit.
So in the real world, a deposit on a vehicle is rather informal. Don't over do it or the buyer might just walk...
As far as the sale goes, the seller hangs onto the title until all monies are transferred.
The more money involved, the stricter the informal rules become to protect either/both parties.
You might already know, but you don't have to buy that odd Michelin size...one cross is 245/75R22.5 which is extremely close. Only a slight width difference of 9.25" vs. 9.65"...
The 245's are what I went with when replacing my Michelins. Bought them on Amazon Prime, so free shipping. Love's tire shop installed them plus spin balanced them ($40/tire) and I had brass extensions installed for the air valves ($7/tire).
This gives more options for finding a local tire store that might stock something. Look at truck tire stores maybe. You don't have to buy 'RV' tires.
I'm counting on only the mud flaps behind the RV tires AND that 3M Scotchgard Clear Bra (Paint Protection Bulk Film 6-by-60-inches) that I got from Amazon that covers the plastic headlight assemblies.
Put the 3M product on the headlights of my '01 Saturn which I bought specifically to tow. Its wedge like angular profile seems to me to be a natural protection against rock damage.
So far only 3500 miles towing but no windshield or paint damage. I did find a rock hit evidence on one headlight but the 3M minimized damage enough that I don't need to replace the headlight assembly.
My decision to forgo countless protective products came from years of reading threads like this one by people who've bought various products.
You might be told by some tire dealers that the Michelin size on your RV doesn't have a cross. That's not strictly true.
Tire Size Calculator
I owned a 19.5" tired RV for years...I like Toyo & Bridgestone. But I've also gotten good life and miles out of Double Coin, and I'm now trying a set of 22.5" RoadLux steer tires from Amazon (Free shipping with prime...saving $80 to $100 PER TIRE shipping costs when bought online). My tires mileage out rather than age out though I do have some Michelin drive tires that are 7 years old and have lots of side wall cracking. Just bought this used Journey last February and it has 22.5" tires. I'm not a big Michelin fan either.
That tires size calculator is really handy when checking different sizes.