Headed to Savanna Ga and then Titusville FL. Google maps always recomends taking 77 south. I have always went down 75. What are the differences? I will be towing a car hauler behind my Class A gasser so the less mountain climbs and bad waether risks the better.
I've traveled both, but only as far north as West Virginia/Kentucky. There are areas of I-77 where the grades/turns are a bit more than I-75 (such as the stretch between Charleston and Beckley) (where it runs concurrent with I-64) and it's also a toll road (blech), but I find it to be a more pleasurable drive. As noted above, less truck traffic and in my opinion WAY more scenic. If it's just a straight shot you're looking for, I-75 might be better.
I can't recall a difference in weather, although I was traveling I-77 once where, no kidding, I-81 at the intersection of I-77 (near Fort Chiswell) was closed due to flooding caused by torrential downpours! Not a fun drive.
What can anyone tell me about the Thor Coaches. What quality of their coaches. Anyone out there looked at the new Axis. I have looked at the Axis only in pictures. Small class A but something I'm looking for. Any help appreciated.
Just my two cents, but it's going to be hard to get a reliable picture of a brand's quality based on forum postings (this topic or otherwise). As one of my professors used to say, any person's "experience" is a statistical argument based on a sample size of one. Without a sufficiently large, random sample (which can't happen where people self-select), an impression of the brand as a whole will remain elusive.
However, it may not matter. If it's true that all brands within a given price band will have roughly the same overall quality, then the issue becomes finding a unit with the layout and features you like, and then doing a pre-delivery inspection up the wazoo, making sure that there are no major problems with the particular coach you're buying. Then, take the inevitable petty annoyances with a easy-going disposition and you'll be fine. You'll have a great time, you won't let the small stuff ruin the pleasure of your new coach, and you'll have the satisfaction of knowing that you got the motorhome that's exactly right for you.
Having said all that, we have a Thor ACE 30.1 and it's fine. Fit and finish are all good, no major system problems (we're dealing with a battery control center recall now, but it's not a big deal) (and not peculiar to Thor), it drives well, livability is excellent, and the layout is perfect for us.
Have fun and keep us posted. Both the Axis and the Vegas look very appealing!
We spend long periods boon docking using our diesel generator and a 2000 watt zantrex inverter charger and a bank of three "deep cycle" so called marine RV batteries. We use power liberally for tv, etc.
I know that battery banks are most happy when discharged only slightly, so I tend to use my genset often to keep the charge level up. I currently have been starting the genset and recharging when battery voltage gets down to 12 volts.
How about a simple thread telling what minimum voltage you try to keep before using your genset to recharge? I have talked with people who say they run down to 11.8 volts.
X2 on Wolfe10's comments above. Also, if you just like plinking around and having fun, you might consider installing an amp-hour meter. There are lots of different versions around. You can get simple ones for about $60 that are pretty darn functional. The PowerWerx meter gets good reports: http://www.powerwerx.com/digital-meters/dc-inline-watt-meter-power-analyzer-powerpoles.html.
Yes I meant "12" and not "2", I took it to walmart and had them test it. They said it was good, they charged it to 12.58 vdc and the CCA of 775 out of 850. I can't believe it is good though. I installed it back into the MH for and checked the draw again and was still at less than .9 milli amp, so in the next week I expect it to be low again.
Let's see what happens. If the battery has about a 100-AH rating (Group 27 battery), it should still be at 85% or so after running your parasitic load for a week. Even a Group 24 battery (75 AH rating) should still be at 75% (12.4 volts). (Again, I'm doing this from memory ... which ain't what it used to be. Google the topic to make sure the voltage-charge numbers are right.)
Also, I just went back and re-read the thread. Are you saying that the measured current is with the chassis disconnect switch off? If so, 90mA seems high. That doesn't answer the battery question, but it's something to think about once you get that issue addressed.
The good news is that electricity is 100% logical, so if you're methodical, you'll find it.
Keep us posted,
Thank you for the help.
I brought the battery home and put it on the charger, disconnected at full charge (I believe it was in the 2.6 range), checked it 24 hours later and it is now measuring 2.40. is the .2+ drop an acceptable drop? The battery is from Walmart, I guess I could have them check it but I don't want another Walmart battery.
You're saying "2.6" and "2.4," but I assume you mean 12.6 and 12.4? If that's right, then no, something is wrong. I don't have my tables with me, but I think 12.4 volts is about 25% discharged, which shouldn't happen overnight. Sounds to me like the battery is defective.
Checked my chassis battery 1 week ago and it was at 12.17 vdc (with the neg. lead disconnected), today I checked and it was at 11.88. Is this an expected drop? Battery is 2.5 years old. I checked the amp draw and it measured 0.10 on the 10amp scale. I brought it home and put it on a charger and try measuring it again. Last resort was to take it somewhere and have it tested.
It's kind of an art form to measuring state of charge with a voltmeter (dissipating surface charge and all that), but I agree: Something's up. A fully charged battery (after a rest period) should be around 12.65 volts, so you were only about 50% charged when you started. Maybe the battery was not recently charged, or it's not holding a full charge.
But even still, it shouldn't drop that much in a week. 11.88 volts is essentially 100% discharged. 100 mA is slightly high for a parasitic load, but not that high. Of course, measuring on the 10 amp scale is pretty rough for the mA range -- you probably want to get a reading on the mA scale, but still... something's not right.
I guess I'd do two things. First, disconnect all loads, fully charge the battery, let it sit for 24 hours, put a small load on it for 5 or 10 minutes, wait for a few minutes, and then check the voltage. It should be 12.65 or thereabouts. And, if you can, use a hygrometer to check the specific gravity of each cell. Each should be about 1.265.
Assuming that checks out, leave the battery disconnected and check it again in a week. It shouldn't change.
Then, assuming you've got a good battery, I guess the problem is the parasitic drain. Technically, anything less than 100mA is OK, but really it should be down in the 35-50 mA range (or less). What I've done for other folks looking for similar problems is to suggest putting a meter on the battery (like you've done), and then pull fuses one-by-one looking for the one that eliminates the drain. You might find something like a TV antenna amp switch left on.
If none of that works, then ... hmmm ... don't know. Let us know and we'll figure out the next step.
Can't find much info online (other than recreation.gov).
- Anyone ever been there?
- What do you think of taking a 31' gas Class A up Route 4?
- Is this in the area that got burned out in the wild fires?
- Any other thoughts?
Just an update for those who are still fans of the RM7720, the big update has quietly been released. Allow yourself plenty of time to do it. It could take hours on a slow connection.(snip, snip)
Wow. Thanks for posting. That's a bucket-full of pretty neat features. I especially like this one: "States to Avoid allows you to route around states or provinces." For, um, "political reasons," there are certain states where the most prominent leaders give me the creeps and so it's important to make sure I never enter their jurisdictions. I guess there's enough of us that we've been recognized with our own routing options! Woo hoo.
Seriously, I've been looking at the Rand-McNally app for the wifey-poo's iPad. I'm going to compare this really impressive list of features to the app and see if it's time to bite the bullet.
Dear Readers and Viewers:
(snip, snip) The insurer is denying any and all liabilty for the loss of use.
I agree that the answer depends on the facts, but the first missing fact is whether the insured has "Loss of Use" coverage in the policy. Such coverage is available and it's up to the owner as to whether he buys it or not. If he chose to buy that coverage, then you're into analysis of the policy definition of losses, policy limits, exclusions, etc. If he chose not to buy that coverage, then he's in the same boat as everyone who suffers a loss and wishes he'd bought insurance to cover it. I.e., ask for a federal bailout.
I just replaced the Jensen TV with a Vizio 32" E320-A1. We've always had good good luck with Vizios, but I agree with previous posts that size, fix, speakers, etc., may trump a decision based on brand. We had to match a swing-out bracket, and that turned out to be the deciding factor. Front firing speakers would be a plus, especially if the unit is mounted in a cabinet, unless you plan on installing a sound bar. Actually, I've concluded that the latter option is worthwhile even if the unit had front-firing speakers ... we don't watch much TV while on the road, but we do watch movies, and watching Jason Bourne blow up a propane tank requires sound with high fidelity!
Do you know if the Tiffin Copilot system is the same as the ALK Copilot software?
If so, I've got ALK Copilot installed on my Android tablet and I'm definitely underwhelmed. The display/user interface is clunky, the routing (even though it's set for my RV) is flukey and not trustworthy, building routes is cumbersome, etc. For example, as I'm typing this I just plugged in a nearby gas station and generated a route, but Copilot is sending me down a dirt road. Maybe there's a way to turn off "unpaved roads" somewhere in the setup, but I haven't found it. And why would an RV-specific system ever select a dirt road anyway? Admittedly, I've been using the Garmin/MapSource interface for decades so maybe it's just one of those incidents where the system is just different and I haven't spent enough time with it. Still, I used it for a while and then decided it wasn't worth it, and haven't bothered with it in months.
If the Tiffin system is not the ALK software, then (as Rosanne Rosannadana would say), "Never mind..."
Ditto on the customer support. We've owned lots of RVs over the years and Thor's responsiveness tops them all. As to the build quality, we've had a few nits here and there (I'm dealing with the BCC recall now), but I'm not sure there's much of a difference across manufacturers. I've been reading about the utter disaster that some poor guy had with a $400,000 Winnebago Tour, and all I can say is I sure am glad I bought my little Thor ACE! (The story is here: RV Travel Newsletter.)
We are planning on heading down the Blue Ridge Parkway from the Cumberland Knob recreation area in North Carolina to US Hwy 21 and then taking that south to Statesville, North Carolina. We prefer to stay off the Interstates if possible, as we've found the secondary roads to be more scenic, historical and enjoyable.
Is this route compatible with our rig?..:h...we are 65' long with the toad and 13'1" high..I am experienced with mountain driving etc.....I welcome any comments...thanks...Dennis
I haven't driven it, but I did do a little research getting ready to drive the BRP. Came across this page that gives the tunnel clearances. Note that there are a couple where the clearance at the edge strip is in the 10-12' range. Hope this helps: Blue Ridge Parkway Tunnel Clearances
There are generally quite a few topic in here on GPS's and how to select your own route for them. Just today I got an e-mail from Magellan about a new Smart GPS. In the video that accompanied the e-mail it said you can do your route planning on your computer, tablet, or smart phone, and then wirelessly sink it to your GPS. (snip, snip)
I think this is the device msmith mentioned: Magellan SmartGPS. The idea of having advertisements and "valuable social information" inflicted on me while I drive sounds like the 5th circle of hell, but the idea of wireless connectivity between the GPS and PC sounds like an idea whose time has come. Garmin has had traffic and weather updates via a wireless connection to a phone or tablet data service. Now Magellan has gone further. Maybe this is the start of something.
Thanks for posting.
What do you mean close? I had the genny run for 5 min and still no luck. This is driving me crazy. I just want it to work.
Never mind...just a guess. By "close" I meant that the circuit is open (not complete) until the genset runs for a few moments, and then a relay (or some such thing) closes to complete the circuit. But 5 minutes is way more than enough time. Try the other suggestions.
Everything works fine on shore power.
How long are you waiting before hitting the AC? I hate to mention the obvious, but it's important to be methodical while you rule out things and try to trace down the problem. In our coach, I've got to wait about 30 seconds after the generator is running before the circuits close on the AC or microwave. (If this is a "duh" kind of suggestion, sorry--go back to the real checklist.)
I have a Garmin nuvi 2595. When I map out a route on MapQuest the route selected by MapQuest is not always the exact way I want to travel. So, using click and drag, I move the route to the one I want. But, then when I download it to the Garmin, every time, it down loads the original route selected by MapQuest rather than the one I selected. Any thoughts, ideas, comments will be appreciated. / Thanks...Larry
As you know from the "Is there any GPS that will do..." thread, I've been struggling with a similar problem for a while. I followed DonPD's suggestion of trying to use Basecamp, but I'm not having much luck with that either. Admittedly, I still haven't gotten over the learning curve of Basecamp, so I may be missing something obvious, but it still doesn't look like one can get route compatibility with some of the newer Garmin GPS units (except perhaps by going through a .gpx file transfer, which I still haven't tried yet). I spent some time downloading and going through the user manuals for Garmin units that I might like (including the new RV760 unit) and they all contain this tell-tale description of their file compatibility: "Maps and GPX waypoint files from myGarmin mapping software, including MapSource, BaseCamp, and HomePort." Note that it lists maps and .gpx files, but not route files (.gdb files for MapSource). G-r-r-r-r-r.
So, I'm still stuck with my old Zumo until either I get smarter or I give it up and just use a laptop or netbook while on the road.
Keep us posted if you figure anything out.
I was referring to the switch on the genset, and looks like you'd already tried that. I think you're right. A call to ONAN is the next step. When you say it "didn't work," though, does that mean you didn't get the tic-tic-tic-tic sound of the priming pump, or you did get that sound, ran it until the sound indicated that priming was complete, and the generator still won't start? Either way, I guess, call the manufacturer, but I'm curious to know how this works out.