Since I use my DVR all of the time when it's not connect to the satellite (I like to be able to watch the recorded programs while we are driving) I can tell you as an absolute fact that you CAN use your DVR while not connected to the satellite(s).
However, your DVR must maintain power between the time you have a working satellite connection and the time you want to watch TV. For me, that means I have the DVR on an inverter and it never loses power and I have full access to everything on my DVR at all times and in all locations.
Bill, you are an absolute ROCK STAR!!! Recently, we lost signal due to an intense rain storm, so we just fired up a recorded show. It worked fine!! Unfortunately, it just never dawned on me that this is how to circumvent the system in my RV. WOW!!!! I'm ordering an inverter right now!!!
The short answer is NO. Unfortunately, all 2WD Sport Trac/Explorer cannot be towed 4-down. They do allow a short distance (you said 50 miles??) so you can get it to a shop if necessary, but you cannot use it as a toad.
We volunteer at several national parks, staying from 4 to 7 months at a time. At Grand Canyon and Grand Tetons, the cell service is limited, and at the Great Smoky Mountains, Zion and Yellowstone it is non-existent at our RV site. This causes difficulties for us as we use the internet to pay our bills, order medications, etc. At GC, we use a signal booster which helps most days, but in the Smokys and others, we have to pack up the laptop and drive into nearby towns to get signal.
There was one time in Grand Canyon during an Obama visit that the cell service suddenly jumpted to 5 bars with good 3G signal. Turns out that the Secret Service installed a temporary cell site for their use during the event. Two days later, back to 1 bar and no 3G service... I'd support the installation of additional towers in the national parks, as long as they were disguised, for many reasons. Mostly, because there are so many people who get injured in the parks and it would be good to have help readily available.
By the way JR45...
My EMS broke last summer when i was in Florida and plugged for the first time to the Surge guard power protector...and the system failed.
Not sure the problem comes from the Surge guard power protector but you had this problem while you were using it and last week i read on an other forum a guy who have had the same problem as us while he was plugged on shore power and using Surge guard power protector....
anyway i will never use this protector anymore
2007 Safari Trek
Robert, it is highly unlikely that the Surge Guard protector had anything to do with these malfunctions. The protector does NOTHING while connected. It can't add power or take away power. It's a simple switch designed to disconnect when the line is over powered. That's all it can do, it has nothing to do with the EMS or Intellitec system.
I'd recommend that you use the Surge Protector all the time. Last summer, in Wyoming during a storm, we took a lightning hit right next to our rig. The bolt hit the top of a tree and then bounced to the ground between my rig and the guy next door. There were a total of 9 RV's parked in this "loop". I'm the only one who had a Surge Protetor, and I'm the only one who didn't suffer any damage. (Other than the surge protector of course). Two rigs beside me, both ways, lost all the TV's and computers, and 3 lost their microwaves. Every rig in the loop lost something electronic because of the power surge that hit the ground. Yes, I had to pony up $350 for a new protector, but that was cheap compared to everyone else. And within a week, there were 9 Surge Protectors in that loop...
Please reconsider using your protector...
My 07 32V has multiple fuse locations. In addition to the ones mentioned, I have more boxes on the shelf above the propane tank. There's a lot of electrical stuff up there.
But, your problem would indicate that the dash or engine compartment boxes would most likely have the fuses you are looking for in them. The biggest clue to me is that the ABS light is on. Have you tried decoding the computer box to see if there are any error messages?
The only other thing that comes to mind is that several people have reported problems with the iginition switch module. Try jiggling your key with the engine on and see if anything changes.
Good luck, electrical gremlins are the hardest thing to figure out...
You may have a bad diode. Also, check all connectors.If you have a bad diode, it just won't work and your light won't come on. A diode would not be a source of your problem as they don't draw any power. More likely, you have something shorted or something drawing power more often than normal. Have you made any other electrical changes lately? For example, did you install a new stereo or a GPS? Maybe the new one is wired incorrectly and is drawing too much power... Or is this just happening when towing? If so, probably your tow brake system is just drawing you down. You could easily install a "charge line" from your coach to the toad to keep a charge on the toad battery while driving. I installed a fused line to my toad and now my battery is always fully charged after towing.
Note to self... NEVER ask anyone on this forum for help if you make a mistake or cause anything to happen to you or your rig because of an error on your own part. I'd hate to be attacked like Jack was... Better to just keep your mouth shut than subject yourself to a public flogging by anonymous "handles" hiding behind their computer screens.
OK, problem solved!! As bdpreece suggested, the back flow valve was plugged with alkali/gunk, reducing my flow to about half normal. All I had to do was take a small pick and clean the gunk off, and back to normal. Fortunately, the little plastic flap wasn't broken or damaged so I didn't have to replace the fitting. All it needed was a good cleaning.
Thanks for all the replies, you guys are always helpful and I greatly appreciate your time!!!
Some good suggestions, and I've already tried most of them with no luck. As I noted, my incoming pressure AFTER the sediment filter and the water softener is 55-60 PSI. This is measured with my adjustable water pressure valve that normally is attached to the faucet. I moved it to the coach inlet to verify that my filter and softener weren't the problem. Also, when the regulator is in its normal position on the faucet, the hose entering the coach shoots a 10 foot stream of water (after the filter and softener), so I know the regulator isn't the problem either.
As for the whole coach filter, I noted that there is a new one installed, but I neglected to note that I had actually removed the filter and tested again, with NO filter installed, with the same results. As for now, the suggestion to check for a back flow valve is the best idea, I just have to figure out how to get back behind the panel to check if I have one. When I remove the hose, I don't get a lot of water flowing back out of the fixture, so I expect that I do have a back-flow valve in there. I just have to find a way to get to it. I'll keep you posted, and if there are any other thoughts I would appreciate hearing them!! Thanks guys!!!!
That's a shame. Since I don't work at Ford I really don't know what the difference was in those years, because the regular Explorer is towable with the Auto Trans. But I'm glad they eventually did fix it as I love my Sport Trac and I'm happy I can tow it with me. Maybe your dad can find a newer one and then he could tow it. If so, let me know and I'll hook you up with everything you need to make your own Neutral Tow Kit for under $10.
Over the past 3-4 weeks, the water flow in the coach has been decreasing gradually. The flow rate is about half of normal. The hose connection coming in to the coach has 55-60 PSI. The in-line drinking water filter is new. It seems as if something is getting clogged up and slowing down the flow. I've checked the faucet aerators, they are clean. The shower head is clean as well, as is the restrictor in the shower faucet. I can't find any evidence of sediment or corrosion, and I don't know what else to look for. I do have a sediment filter and a water softener installed on the incoming hose line, and the pressure is still between 55-60 when entering the coach.
Just found an updated Ford application chart, and discovered that the 2001 and 2002 Sport Trac with AUTO trans is NOT towable. Only the manual trans is towable. Apparently they changed their transmissions and transfer cases those years, and they can't be towed. In 2003 the newer Explorer trans was installed and could be towed with the addition of a Neutral Tow Kit to electrically disengage the transfer case.
So, if your dad's ST is an automatic, he can't tow it...
You didn't mention if you had installed the required LED yet... The programming alone won't work if you don't install the LED too. I have the wiring diagrams for your ST if you need them. Only costs about $7 and you can install it yourself.
I married a dispatcher. After 32 years of my wife telling me where to go and what to do, we both retired. Now that we're full-timing, she tells me where to go and what to do. I just don't have to listen to her over a radio speaker now...
But, we still have a good friend who is still employed and is still dispatching and we do occasionally listen in to hear her voice when we're on the road..
I have the Ford installation files you need to make your own Tow Kit. Please Email me at ross0737 at aol dot com and I'll send you everything you need to make your own kit for under $10.
I will say that Ford does now have the original kits again, or at least they can order them from the manufacturer again, but the kit for your vehicle now costs $249 if you have the V6 or $299 if you have the V8.
I've shared this information with over 60 other people and we haven't had any failures.
Been using Even Brake for 8 years now, no air leaks. My first one did fail at 6 years and I sent it in for the $299 "refurbishment". Apparently mine wasn't repairable, so they sent me a brand new unit as a replacement. Something in the electronics failed on the first one. Since a new system now costs well over a thousand dollars, no matter which one you buy, IMHO I'd send it in for the fix.
If you search the forum for problems with Even Brake, you'll find very few. They are a good unit, work well, and have few problems. Personally, I love mine and would recommend it to anyone.
Remember to always have one metal point on the ground, in case of a ground fault or surge. I drilled a hole through the wood pads and ran a bare copper wire through, coiled and stapled.
??? And all this time I thought that's why I had a ground plug on my shore power cord.
The only problem with this that I see is the price you pay doesn't mean you own it. They still own the Nomad box. I recently upgraded to the H23 DVR after my old one crashed, and even though I purchased it from Camping World, Directv claims that they still own the DVR. I have no plans to change sat providers, so not a big deal, but as to principle, I don't think I'd buy one of these for that much money. They are taking away our right to sell the unit to someone else so that we could recoup a little of our money later...
Apparently I'm a pretty lucky guy... I recently lost my Droid 2 and had to obtain a new phone. I upgraded to a newer HTC, and was told that I was going to lose my Unlimited Plan. When they went online to register my new phone, they had a computer glitch that wouldn't recognize the 4G LTE card they had installed in my new phone. Finally a supervisor came and logged in, and copied my wife's phone settings to my account, in order to make the phone come on. Since she was still on an unlimited plan, my new phone was also left on the old Unlimited plan!!! It's been 3 months now and they didn't catch it. Still unlimited!!