I have the same unit, and I tow an 08 Explorer Sport Trac. I put a bike carrier in the receiver on the rear of the Sport Trac for our 2 bicycles, and I'm good to go. Note that my Sport Trac weighs about 4700 empty, so I'm about at my max on the Class 3 hitch.
I've been trying to find a way to bring my 85 Aspencade along too, and there is just no way to do it with a Southwind 32V if you want to flat tow a vehicle. I've finally decided on an enclosed trailer for the Gold Wing, and I'm going to have the DW drive the Sport Trac with the trailer and follow me. Now, I know that sounds like a bit of a pain in the butt, however, now I have an empty trailer hitch and I think I can talk the DW into bringing our boat along too!! WIN!!!!
We had this after we had been in an area with high lime/calcium content in the water. We shut off the water and water heater, let the water cool and then drained the water heater. You would not believe how much crud came out of the heater. We then refilled and the problem was gone. The crud was getting into the lines every time we drew water.
I get your point. We stayed in Parker last year and had the crud problem in the hot water heater too. I clean it with a flushing tool about every 3 months, and I always get a bunch of white colored crystalline chunks flushing out of it. After Parker, the chunks were dark brown, which matched the color of the water there.. It was pretty dirty stuff. Again, I'm thinking the back-flow preventer is probably plugged with the same white crystalline stuff that grows in the water heater. I've seen small deposits on the inlet when I disconnect to move, so it makes sense that the back-flow preventer is plugged. Thanks for the suggestion!!
Do you have the same problem when on City Water AND Onboard Water (using the pump)?
Actually, Paul, the water pump does a little better pressure-wise. But it's a pretty low pressure pump, so I have never had good pressure from it anyway. The city water connection has always been the best and now that its slowed so much I'm thinking the above suggestion to clean the back-flow preventer is probably the solution. I'm hoping to get on it next week, after the holiday.
Check the vent pipe into the grey tank. If it is slid into a rubber collar at the top of the tank, slide it up and see how far it goes into the tank. My bet it has slid all the way to the bottom and is sealed off and not letting it breath.
I have absolutely no way to get to the top of the gray tank, unless I completely remove it from underneath. I also have no access to any of the piping as they are installed inside the walls. The only way to get to them is to remove the interior walls, and I'm not prepared to try that one. You may be right, but I have no way to determine that one.
Have you unscrewed the faucet screen and cleaned that out?? Could just be clogged where the water comes out of the faucet.
I've checked them Kathy, but they are all clean. I have the same low pressure in both sinks, the shower, and even the toilet barely dribbles when flushing. Thanks for the suggestion.
You might check if they took out the test plug on the roof from when the unit was built. Good luck, Bill
There's only one roof pipe, it splits off to the black and gray inside the walls. Since the black tank empties in 15 seconds flat, I'm pretty sure that there is no plug in the pipe. I installed one of those directional cyclone vent toppers on the pipe and saw no plug when I installed it.
Low pressure(crud build-up) could be a bad inlet check valve. Check here to see how to fix it:
inlet valve repair
Don't know about vent issue.
Excellent suggestion Bob, thanks!! I'll give it a go and see what happens.
Our unit is 6 years old, and water pressure is getting very low. My gauge is showing 80# at the source, but inside the rig I have only about 30#. I can hold my hand over the faucet on full, and can hold the water flow. I've noticed a white crusty build-up on the inside of my outside hose connection and have scraped it off with a small screw driver, but I'm concerned that I may have this build-up throughout the system. Any suggestions on what I can use to flush the crud?
I also have no air vent from the gray tank. When I drain, the water will completely back up inside the drain hose and after almost 2 minutes, it will suddenly begin making a sucking sound and flowing again. I think it is building up so much pressure, it's sucking the P-trap in the shower dry to get air flowing. It has done this pretty much since it was new, but I never realized what was happening until recently when I noticed the smell coming from the shower drain when it had no water in it. I've tried to track the piping to see where it goes, but I cannot determine the path of the pipes. Suggestions on how to fix the vent?
Thanks in advance!
Since I use my DVR all of the time when it's not connect to the satellite (I like to be able to watch the recorded programs while we are driving) I can tell you as an absolute fact that you CAN use your DVR while not connected to the satellite(s).
However, your DVR must maintain power between the time you have a working satellite connection and the time you want to watch TV. For me, that means I have the DVR on an inverter and it never loses power and I have full access to everything on my DVR at all times and in all locations.
Bill, you are an absolute ROCK STAR!!! Recently, we lost signal due to an intense rain storm, so we just fired up a recorded show. It worked fine!! Unfortunately, it just never dawned on me that this is how to circumvent the system in my RV. WOW!!!! I'm ordering an inverter right now!!!
The short answer is NO. Unfortunately, all 2WD Sport Trac/Explorer cannot be towed 4-down. They do allow a short distance (you said 50 miles??) so you can get it to a shop if necessary, but you cannot use it as a toad.
We volunteer at several national parks, staying from 4 to 7 months at a time. At Grand Canyon and Grand Tetons, the cell service is limited, and at the Great Smoky Mountains, Zion and Yellowstone it is non-existent at our RV site. This causes difficulties for us as we use the internet to pay our bills, order medications, etc. At GC, we use a signal booster which helps most days, but in the Smokys and others, we have to pack up the laptop and drive into nearby towns to get signal.
There was one time in Grand Canyon during an Obama visit that the cell service suddenly jumpted to 5 bars with good 3G signal. Turns out that the Secret Service installed a temporary cell site for their use during the event. Two days later, back to 1 bar and no 3G service... I'd support the installation of additional towers in the national parks, as long as they were disguised, for many reasons. Mostly, because there are so many people who get injured in the parks and it would be good to have help readily available.
By the way JR45...
My EMS broke last summer when i was in Florida and plugged for the first time to the Surge guard power protector...and the system failed.
Not sure the problem comes from the Surge guard power protector but you had this problem while you were using it and last week i read on an other forum a guy who have had the same problem as us while he was plugged on shore power and using Surge guard power protector....
anyway i will never use this protector anymore
2007 Safari Trek
Robert, it is highly unlikely that the Surge Guard protector had anything to do with these malfunctions. The protector does NOTHING while connected. It can't add power or take away power. It's a simple switch designed to disconnect when the line is over powered. That's all it can do, it has nothing to do with the EMS or Intellitec system.
I'd recommend that you use the Surge Protector all the time. Last summer, in Wyoming during a storm, we took a lightning hit right next to our rig. The bolt hit the top of a tree and then bounced to the ground between my rig and the guy next door. There were a total of 9 RV's parked in this "loop". I'm the only one who had a Surge Protetor, and I'm the only one who didn't suffer any damage. (Other than the surge protector of course). Two rigs beside me, both ways, lost all the TV's and computers, and 3 lost their microwaves. Every rig in the loop lost something electronic because of the power surge that hit the ground. Yes, I had to pony up $350 for a new protector, but that was cheap compared to everyone else. And within a week, there were 9 Surge Protectors in that loop...
Please reconsider using your protector...
My 07 32V has multiple fuse locations. In addition to the ones mentioned, I have more boxes on the shelf above the propane tank. There's a lot of electrical stuff up there.
But, your problem would indicate that the dash or engine compartment boxes would most likely have the fuses you are looking for in them. The biggest clue to me is that the ABS light is on. Have you tried decoding the computer box to see if there are any error messages?
The only other thing that comes to mind is that several people have reported problems with the iginition switch module. Try jiggling your key with the engine on and see if anything changes.
Good luck, electrical gremlins are the hardest thing to figure out...