Some stations tax everything, If you find yourself paying "Road Tax' then get a receipt and when you file your tax return request a refund.. NOTE: you will have to file a return in every state where you paid the excess tax.
Some stations, will re-computer the cost for cooking/heating gas as opposed road (engine) fuel.
That sounds like a GREAT idea!! Let's see, last year I bought propane in 7 states, that's 7 MORE TAX RETURNS to file and 7 MORE AUDITS to put up with. Isn't full timing fun???
If you're good with tools, I can save you some big dollars.. You can make your own Neutral Tow Kit for under $10 and install it yourself in about an hour. You still have to get the dealer to reprogram the computer to "enable" the program, but this will save you some big bucks!! I have the installation instructions and will give them to you for free. Email me at ross0737 at aol dot com and I'll hook you up.
I've shared this with many people already, but I'll share again.. You can tow your Explorer Sport Trac 4-down by installing a Neutral Tow Kit, and having your computer programmed by the dealer to "enable" the system.
They sell the kits for $249-299, but I can show you how to make your own for under $12. I have all the installation instructions for the Explorers, Sport Tracs, and some Rangers and I'll share them for free. I have an 08 Sport Trac with the V-8, and I installed my own for $12. Took me a few hours to get the whole thing done, but I saved about $500 doing it myself. The only disclaimer: They have to be 4 Wheel Drive, NOT All Wheel Drive. Only the 4 Wheel Drives can be towed 4-down.
Email me at ross0737 at aol dot com, let me know the year, model, and engine size and I'll hook you up.
Well, I confirmed this morning that Ford does NOT make a Neutral Tow Kit for the 2001 and no Ford dealer will re-program if I make my own (talked to four of them).
Going to go with the driveshaft disengagement option. I finally found the source - REMCODSC.com.
Thanks for all the input.
Send me an Email, and I'll send you a copy of the Ford installation instructions for a 2001 Explorer. You can take them to your dealers and show them they are wrong... I have the actual Ford documents, for 2001 with both 4.0 V-6 and the 4.6 V-8. Also, if you click on the link someone posted above, you can see that Ford does sell the kit for $249.
Again, you can make your own kit for under $10.....
I use the Wilson booster system with an external Truckers antenna. There are several different models, so you can choose which one will work best for you. I'd recommend ordering over the phone so the sales people can advise you better about the advangtages of the different models. Just google it, you'll find them easily enough.
The only negative I've noticed with any of the Kindles, and yes I own a Kindle reader, is that they only use AT&T. If I could get one on Verizon, I'd have a new one as soon as they come out. Most of the places I stay are in rural areas and AT&T is pretty much non-existent across the country.
Ford Explorers require a Neutral Tow Kit not a drive shaft disconnect. This applies only to 4WD. If yours is an AWD, you cannot tow it in any circumstance.
I can help you make your own Neutral Tow Kit for under $10 but you'll still have to get the dealer to reprogram your computer. If you're interested, Email me at ross0737 at aol dot com and I'll help you out.
It all depends on what year the Explorer is. The old style Explorers (2003-2010) could only be towed 4 down it they were 4 wheel drive and a neutral transfer case ligtht & programming were installed by Ford. The newer Explorers have the same drive train that my Ford Flex has and can be towed 4 down in 2 wheel or AWD configuration.
Right Cliff, when Ford redesigned the Explorer in 2011 they modified the transmission/transfer case to no longer use the Neutral Tow Kit that sells for about $250-299 now. But for older Explorers, Sport Tracs and some Rangers you still need the Neutral Tow Kit. I have the instructions to make them from scratch for $12 or less if anyone needs the Kit.... You still have to go to a dealer for computer programming, but you can save hundreds by making your own. I've already shared with over 65 other people and all have worked fine.
when you say run wire driectly from battery, i assume you mean MH battery but there aren't any empty (i don't think there are) slots on the MH 7 pin to put that wire into. or do you recommend just putting a push plug on it to connect to the towed cable. the MH 7 pin recept has a hot wire when the key is on so if the corresponding slot on the towed 7 pin plug isn't used why can't i use that slot and run my wire from the towed 7pin up to the towed battery?
tomorrow i will have to verify each pin on the MH recept.
SpinRite provided you with a link to diagrams, and there should already be a "hot" wire provided. On my rig, the hot wire was only a 14 gauge wire, and I upgraded it to a 10 gauge from my chassis (engine) battery. I put a fuse on it on both the M/H and on the toad too, just in case... On the toad side, I actually rewired the entire harness to include the 10 gauge wire with the light wiring to my toad battery. You could also install a diode on the toad to keep any power from back-feeding to the coach when you're not running.
I had the exact same problem with my Even Brake 2 years ago, when mine was about 5 years old. I took the offer to pay $299 for repairs, and sent it in. When it came back 10 days later, I opened the box and found a brand new unit! Apparently mine couldn't be repaired so they replaced it at no extra charge, just the promised $299. I suggest you send it in!
Besides, your unit is 4 years old, you can't expect everything you own to last forever... Seals can dry out with varying weather and climate conditions (humidity-heat-cold-etc) as you travel around in your coach. We've been back and forth across the country several times now, and something is always going bad, or not working right, or breaking, or whatever.
I rethought this and probably need to use at least 12 gauge wire.
also my MH has two connections, a round 7 that the present towed cable plugs into. I also have an empty 4 flat on MH. why can't i just make up a 4 flat connector only using the ground wire and the hot wire and and run those 2 wires to the towed battery. when not in use i can coil up cord, tape prongs, and tuck it alongside my towed battery.
thanks for your input.
Your 4 flat connector has no hot wires. The green and yellow are for turn/brake lights, the brown is for parking lights, and the white is a ground wire. You'd be much better off running a wire from your battery directly to the 7 pin connector, then run another wire alongside your toad wiring to the battery under your hood. As long as you have a good ground between the vehicles, the hot wire will keep your battery charged. I did this with my toad for my Even Brake system, and I've never had a dead battery again.
My directv died in Vegas last year. Same problem, they would only ship to my home not to where I was. Good news, Camping World in Vegas (the one on Boulder Highway) had a full supply of Directv receivers IN STOCK. Had to pay for it up front, but at least I got one.
What is the voltage of the converter when charging? I recently had the same problems with my lights, and I discovered that the converter was only driving 11.3 volts. By the time my replacement arrived 5 days later, the converter was down to 7.6 volts output. The new one was installed in 20 minutes, voltage now 13.6 and holding. No more dim lights.
I have the same setup. When I'm parked somewhere that blocks my roof top dish, I drag out the portable. If I'm only going to be there for a week or less, I just run the two wires in through a window and directly into the DVR box. If I'm going to be at a location for longer than a week, I run the 2 cables up onto the roof and plug them into the roof top dish lines. Just pull the sat dish cover to expose the wires at the base of the dish, and remove them from the inputs. Use a butt type F connector to attach the portable wires to the stationary wires. I use zip ties to hold the wires up there to keep the strain off them.
I placed my XM antenna on the roof next to an already drilled hole for the satellite cables. I peeled up the Dicor sealant, and ran the satellite cable through the existing hole with the satellite cables. I didn't even have to enlarge it. I then resealed the hole with new Dicor, and used the Dicor to "glue" the antenna in place. Inside, I ran the cable through the side windshield post to the dash, and then to the receiver. Been using it for years now with no problems, even in campground with high/close trees.