RE: DIY Spring Extender - Rev 1 - Half-a-Puck, PICS
Yesterday was my first full day of driving with these pucks and they seem to work good. The rear end of the truck is back up where it should be, nearly level. It takes about 40 PSI in the airbags to get it there, with the upper spring pack just engaging with the puck insert. I was surprised how much lift these inserts gave me, considering they are only 1/2" high. but, I don't let the camper ride down on the overload spring very hard, I lift the frame with the airbags until the camper just begins to lift off the overload spring. The Rancho 9000 shocks and Helwig Sway bar reduce the side to sway.
I don't hear much noise from these inserts, nothing objectionable. When I pull them, I'll see whether the HDPE plastic has performed OK. As suggested, I think I will take the pucks out and drill a hole in the bolt extension to secure them to the overload leaf. I'll use loctite to fix the securing bolt.
Hans, nice horses!!!
Bob
RE: DIY Spring Extender - Rev 1 - Half-a-Puck, PICS
I don't understand your question. The new disks replace the thin disks that come inserted in the holes in the overload springs.
I'll get a couple more photos to show the disk in place.
Many of us put an extender near the top/end of the spring where the bump stop is that makes contact to the inner overload spring instead of the center/outer leaf.
I think I understand what you are saying. Does that give better support and stability?
RE: DIY Spring Extender - Rev 1 - Half-a-Puck, PICS
Ok, I think I see where I may have not been clear enough about how the puck stays in place. In this photo, you can see the bolt extension on the bottom of the puck. That bolt fits into a hole in the overload spring.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_143139_zps1832d18a.jpg
But, the bolt can't go all the way through the overload spring since I don't have enough clearance to get the puck and the bolt extension into the space between the springs.
Does this alleviate concerns about the puck popping out?
Bob
RE: DIY Spring Extender - Rev 1 - Half-a-Puck, PICS
OK guys, great comments, I see I may have some concerns to address:
1. I'm curious to see just how noisy these will be. Stable Load now uses metal inserts in a swing frame mounted to the spring. That would see to make more noise than plastic or rubber. Anyway, I'll try them on a short trip and see how it sounds.
2. Mechanical retention - Ya, I know, it could be a problem. I thought about drilling the bolt and inserting a retention screw to hold the puck in place. I'm not too keen on that approach since this area of a vehicle is not too friendly to screwed things, i.e. rust, dirt, etc. Plus, vibration could loosen the holding screw. I thought of using a bit of Locktite on the threads, but If I want to remove or change the puck, it would be hard to get out of there.
The way I set these pucks makes it very hard for them to come loose. I pressurize the airbags until the upper spring pack just touches the puck & overload spring. So, the puck can't escape the spring pack until the camper is unloaded.
Here's a couple more photos of the puck in place:
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_161611_zps354925c1.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_161657_zps8ac6b1fd.jpg
What I could do I guess is drill the end of the bolt (the bottom) for a 1/4-20 screw that would then hold the puck to the overload spring (and use some Locktite). I would use stainless bolts and screws in the modification.
RE: DIY Spring Extender - Rev 1 - Half-a-Puck, PICS
Interesting, why did you extend there compared to where the overload perch bump stop is?
I don't understand your question. The new disks replace the thin disks that come inserted in the holes in the overload springs.
I'll get a couple more photos to show the disk in place.
Bob
DIY Spring Extender - Rev 1 - Half-a-Puck, PICS
This post is a follow-up to my earlier post asking for ideas about how to make something like the commercial Stable Loads - what I'll call spring extenders (Chevy 1 Ton, SRW). After fiddling with various ideas, I'm trying the puck approach... a half-a-puck that is. This is kind of a quick a dirty R&D effort to see how these spring extenders work. First, I'm using 1/2" HDPE plastic, left over from a cutting board project. Before I describe what I've done, its worth noting that unloaded there is about 15/16" clearance between my main spring set and the overload spring. So, I'm taking up only about 1/2 of the "unloaded gap". Steps in this project:
1. Cut 3" circles out of 1/2" material.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_124641_zpsa62f3baa.jpg
2. Drilled 1/2" holes in rough center.
3. Mounted disk on 1/2 bolt and machined outer edge smooth
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_142544_zps55daa856.jpg
4. Counter sunk 1/4" in disk with an end mill sized to fit the flat on a 1/2" hex head nut. Tightened the bolt to drive the hex head into the plastic.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_131519_zps34defdc7.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_142617_zpsdc0f0c9c.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_142701_zps073381cf.jpg
5. Re-mounted the disk and bolt, and turned a taper in outer edge of disk at about 7 to 8 degrees to match the angle between the main springs and the overloads, and machined the bolt head flat with the plastic. I figured the taper simply by eye balling the gap, seems to be pretty close.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_142950_zpsdf530a09.jpg
6. Cut off extra bolt thread to allow the disk and bolt to fit into the gap between the springs.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/20130514_150737_zps8e4fd6a9.jpg
Once machined, I simply inserted the disks into the lower overload spring hole and released air in the air bags so the upper spring packs just slightly touch the disks mounted on the overload spring.
These disks are not held in place mechanically, they just rest on the overload spring. I don't think they will come out, but I'll travel with them a while and find out. My only other concern is the possibility that the HDPE will not hold up under the load. I'm headed out on a trip tomorrow and will test the design.
Essentially, these disks are just a larger version of the thin little plastic insert that GM puts in the overload springs.
Bob
RE: What Would You Do?
Oh, boy, this gets me into a rant...
I agree with a number of other posts, the newer diesels are problematic. I have a 2008/1 ton/SWR/Allison Trans. that runs great... until the dam exhaust filter plugs up. Happened to me at a state park when I had to launch the boat every day for about 3 days in a row, for about 1/4 mile each time, at idle... that's all it took and it went into full limp mode... in the mountains with a truck camper on top and a boat behind... what a joke. Didn't even know that they put FILTERS on the exhaust system of new trucks... you gotta be kidding!!! After two days in a dealers shop and a few screaming sessions with GM about air pollution while I'm driving in a cloud of forest fire smoke so thick you couldn't see a 1/4 mile and their desire to run from their warranty, I finally got them to pay for the filter cleaning (a gallon of Simple Green in the filter is what they used) while under warranty ($600!!!). As soon as its out of warranty, I'm ripping that god awful filter out.
Exhaust filters on diesel trucks is one of the absolutely dumbest ideas I've ever seen - particularly when a computer decides to arbitrarily render the truck useless.
I love my other truck, a Dodge 98 3/4 ton, 12 cyl Cummins, stick. Now that's a real truck.
MTBob
Bob,I think you meant 12 valve.
Yup, this rant got me so flustered I gave my beloved Cummins twice the displacement. :B
RE: What Would You Do?
Oh, boy, this gets me into a rant...
I agree with a number of other posts, the newer diesels are problematic. I have a 2008/1 ton/SWR/Allison Trans. that runs great... until the dam exhaust filter plugs up. Happened to me at a state park when I had to launch the boat every day for about 3 days in a row, for about 1/4 mile each time, at idle... that's all it took and it went into full limp mode... in the mountains with a truck camper on top and a boat behind... what a joke. Didn't even know that they put FILTERS on the exhaust system of new trucks... you gotta be kidding!!! After two days in a dealers shop and a few screaming sessions with GM about air pollution while I'm driving in a cloud of forest fire smoke so thick you couldn't see a 1/4 mile and their desire to run from their warranty, I finally got them to pay for the filter cleaning (a gallon of Simple Green in the filter is what they used) while under warranty ($600!!!). As soon as its out of warranty, I'm ripping that god awful filter out.
Exhaust filters on diesel trucks is one of the absolutely dumbest ideas I've ever seen - particularly when a computer decides to arbitrarily render the truck useless.
I love my other truck, a Dodge 98 3/4 ton, 12 cyl Cummins, stick. Now that's a real truck.
MTBob
RE: DIY Stable Loads?
Thanks John, I found the reference & pictures. Very interesting and easy way to accomplish the task.
I appreciate your reference.
Bob
DIY Stable Loads?
I have a 2008 Chevy SRW 1 Ton.
I'm thinking of making my own version of Stable Loads - something to take up the space between the regular stack of leaf springs and the overload spring.
I've read a couple of older posts about guys making them for their Fords. Has anyone made these for the Chevy leaf springs?
I've looked at the new Stable Load design and that's one approach. Just wondering if anyone has done something else.
Photos?
RE: I built some stairs for my Bigfoot 10.4E
Yes, the two adjustable legs on my design allow for front/rear height adjustment in addition to side to side irregularities. Frequently the ground under the stairs is uneven left to right and the adjustable legs accommodate that. I went through three revisions on the legs.
The first version was simply a separate support assembly that I stuck under the steps when needed.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Mods%20-%20Miscellaneous/CIMG3355.jpg
I didn't like another "thing" to deal with, so I made the two single extension legs shown in the photo sequence above. But, those legs weren't long enough, so I made a set of legs with two extension inside the legs. These support legs allow me to lower step about 16" off the ground (important when the ground rapidly falls away from the back of the camper).
This photo shows the most recent version of the leg assembly. It has two internal extensions (not extended fully in the photo).
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Step%20Mod/20121104_155946.jpg
Wow, keeping the steps level was a tedious design issue to work through. The trick to keeping the stairs level is making sure that the scissor frame is held firmly in relationship to each other, i.e. the stair stringers are always forming a box shape. I finally figured out how to do this by installing an angle iron keeper on the side of the top & second step (shown above in the previous post).
The pivot design helps a little when a trailer is connected and is somewhat useful. Certainly your design will work just fine, you will just need to kick the trailer at a bit more of an angle.
Bob
RE: I built some stairs for my Bigfoot 10.4E
Very nice work. Did you weld the aluminum yourself? I like your swing out design.
Having fabricated a similar stair assembly for my Northern Lite, let me offer a thought. One of the things I found was the difficulty in keeping the stair parallel with the ground, i.e. perpendicular with the camper. This problem comes up when the ground behind the camper rises or falls in relation to the back end of the camper.
The partial solution to this rising / falling stair issue is to add an adjustable supplemental leg set to the bottom stair, as shown in this photo.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Step%20Mod/ResizeCIMG4701_267x200.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Step%20Mod/ResizeCIMG4763_267x200.jpg
But, still even with adjustable bottom legs, the stairs can be difficult to keep level. So, I added a restraint to each side of the set of stairs to force a parallel, level relationship to the camper - it is the black angle bar just under the top step. http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Step%20Mod/ResizeCIMG4765_267x200.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Step%20Mod/ResizeCIMG4761_267x200.jpg
You can see my overall design takes a different approach with the steps mounted to, and supported by, the hitch extension. In this case the access to the basement is gained by lowering the stair assembly.
One aspect of this stair design is how the stairs can be used when hauling a boat. The stairs can rotate slightly to swing out of the way when a boat is connected - plus having the boat tongue kicked over at an angle.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/Camper%20Step%20Mod/NLCamperStepModification-3.jpg
I must say I am very impressed with your design and workmanship, well done!
Bob
Connect Lead Acid & AGM Batteries?
Hey folks - is there any problem with connecting a lead acid and an AGM battery in parallel. The Lead Acid battery is about 3 years older than the AGM and in good condition. Can I charge them while they are connected in parallel?
RE: TC Short Term Storage Options - Ideas?
I'm considering storing it west of Portland OR.
You guys are great - told me the obvious - sure, an RV park is a perfect choice. This is why I love this forum so much... just for those times when my brain goes into vapor lock!
Thanks
TC Short Term Storage Options - Ideas?
I have a sort of complicated travel schedule coming up that may require me to store my truck camper in another town for a period of about a week. Does anyone have any ideas about where / who / how this can be done? Most conventional RV storage places that I've contacted seem to want a monthly rate, at a minimum.
