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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Carrying extra fuel (gasoline)
Why wouldn't you carry gas cans on a roof rack? People do it all the time. Nothing wrong with it at all.
Mike
Cotay, I hope you're kidding, unless the roof-side tank is empty.
There's a very good reason why the passers-by would be scared if they thought there was gasoline being transported in a roof rack.
What would happen to a flying tank of gasoline in the event of an accident?
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Mike Schriber
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05/29/13 02:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Removing vinyl graphics and restoring finish?
So, I've been doing some research and the reports I've gotten indicate that the replacement graphics are also cracking and shrinking after about two years.
That sucks.
I think I'm just going to leave them off at this point. Now I need to figure out the best way to try and polish the gelcoat in order to even out the finish.
Any suggestions?
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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03/26/13 09:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Removing vinyl graphics and restoring finish?
I'll post a picture when I can. The ghosting is pretty obvious. Just a follow up on removal... the side we were able to use the heat gun on was still a major pain. Removing the adhesive was an all day job. What a mess.
As an extra added bonus, something is fishy with the rear cap. It looks like it's been painted. We've damaged the pain in a number of spots too which will make things even more complicated. I'm not sure what the scoop is. It's possible the previous owner damaged in and had it repaired. I should know more once I figure out the extent of the pain.
Fun fun!
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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03/24/13 12:21am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Removing vinyl graphics and restoring finish?
Yep. Since I have the decals I think putting them on is the way to go. Any suggestions on how to clean and prep the surface first (besides soap and water)? I know I don't want to wax it or anything like that before the decals are applied.
As for painting in Mexico, it's not worth the time, hassle or danger for me. We don't go to Mexico anymore. Ever.
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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03/21/13 01:24pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Removing vinyl graphics and restoring finish?
I'm torn on using decals again. On the one hand, I have a full and correct set for the coach in hand already. If the material is made right, it can last a long time (probably longer than I'll be keeping the coach). Plus, I can put it on myself (I hope) or pay a local sign shop a reasonable fee to do it for me. Having the decals replaced with paint will be a lot more expensive and for us I just don't think it's worth it.
The coach doesn't look bad at all with no stripes but unless I could even out the finish I don't think it's an option.
We used a "magic eraser" wheel to remove the cracked vinyl. We tried the 3M wheel and it didn't work very well. We used a heat gun to remove the intact vinyl. To clean up the remaining adhesive we used Goof Off and followed up with water.
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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03/21/13 10:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Removing vinyl graphics and restoring finish?
We've just finished removing the cracked and shrunken vinyl graphics from our 2006 Damon Daybreak. These were known to have a bad batch of graphics and the company that supplied them sent us a new set for no charge.
I'm debating on replacing them or just trying to restore and even out the finish. As you'd expect, you can see where the graphics were since the covered fiberglass isn't faded like the rest of the coach.
Does anyone know if there is a way to even out the finish or do you just have to wait for the sun to do it's job?
Thanks!
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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03/21/13 12:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Carrying extra fuel (gasoline)
Sorry for the delay. Please keep in mind that not everyone uses their RV the same way. I'm going to be out in the Mojave Desert exploring abandoned mines for an extended period. The nearest gas is more than 60 miles away. I won't be venturing far from where I'm camping. I'll be using a decent amount of gas for my Jeep and also to run the generator in the motorhome. Driving 120 miles round trip for gas is far from optimal. I have solar and carry extra propane but it's winter so the sunlight reaching the panel is weaker and it's cold so...
Contrary to what "the_armadillo" posted, gas vapors are heavier than air, just like gaseous propane. So, a compartment that's vented out the bottom will allow the vapors to fall and dissipate, just like propane.
I'm still investigating what I can do. The top of the fuel tank is smooth and basically a shelf with rails. If I kept anything there I'd strap it down. It's aft of the exhaust system and doesn't get hot due to the engine running. I also have space for a compartment that wasn't completed at the factory which I could build a shelf into. It's next to the propane tank and is open to the air.
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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01/24/13 10:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Carrying extra fuel (gasoline)
I knew this topic would generate a lot of responses!
I do carry gas on the back of my Jeep already (two 5 gallon cans). However, I also use the Jeep extensively and fuel is a great distance away which is why I want to carry more. I have no provisions to carry additional gas on the Jeep.
I'm not sure why many people seem to think that transporting gas in cans means your RV is going to explore. Gas can certainly be transported safely and is done so every day.
Ventilated undercarriage storage SHOULD be fine, especially with standard non-self venting cans. The exact method is the question.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll do a little more work and research on my particular options and go from there.
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Mike Schriber
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01/16/13 04:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Carrying extra fuel (gasoline)
I'm going to be doing an extended dry camping trip next month. I'd like to carry extra gas to be able to run the generator for long periods of time (and still have enough fuel to make it out of course).
The problem is, how to carry it? I could put gas cans in a compartment but if one leaks it'll fill up with vapor and that could lead to a big, big problem.
One possible storage location that intrigued me was on top of the fuel tank. It's a protected, ventilated space, between the frame rails and away from the heat of the exhaust system. There is more than enough room to hold multiple "low" style 5 gallon plastic cans.
Thoughts or suggestions?
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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01/16/13 12:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Sun Wave replacement awning fabric?
I couldn't find any information on them so I spent a little more money and used replacement fabric from Carefree.
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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11/18/12 09:54pm |
Tech Issues
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Sun Wave replacement awning fabric?
I need to replace the fabric on my A&E awning. I was planning on using the less expensive two piece fabric from Carefree but someone mentioned even lower cost replacements from Sun Wave...
http://www.rvawningsmart.com/
I was wondering if anyone has used these guys?
Thanks!
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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10/29/12 05:49pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hercules 19.5" tires?
The recall only affects 315/80R22.5 Load Range J tires.
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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10/25/12 10:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Hercules 19.5" tires?
So far, so good. I've only put a few thousand miles on them so far but they're wearing fine. My friend who also has them has probably put closer to 10,000 miles on his so far with no issues either.
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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10/21/12 05:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Mounting solar panels
I was able to install the whole system this past weekend and everything went well...
http://www.hotchip.com/temp/solarinstall1.jpg
http://www.hotchip.com/temp/solarinstall2.jpg
I mounted the junction box to the side of the refrigerator vent to avoid an extra roof penetration.
I put down the panel, drilled all the holes and screwed everything down. I then pulled the screws back out, put Dicor down each hole and covered the entire contact patch with Eternabond. I then screwed the panel back down and covered the screws and bracket with another piece of Eternabond.
The system is producing power and I'm looking forward to seeing how it performs on our next dry camping trip in September.
Thanks for all the feedback!
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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08/27/12 01:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Mounting solar panels
Okay, fair enough. Time for a recap... Right now I'm mounting a single 100 or so watt 20v panel to a rubber roof on a motorhome. I have a 20 amp Morningstar SunSaver PWM controller. I'll likely add additional panels in the future and they'll most likely be connected in parallel.
There is an existing 15 watt panel on the roof installed by the previous owner that I'll be removing. He wired that panel down the refrigerator vent and I'm going to follow the same route with the new wire so no large roof penetrations will be required.
According to Morningstar's wiring chart, 10 gauge is sufficient to support the maximum load of the controller based on the distance I have to run from the controller to the junction box on the roof (which is going to be about 15').
The only purpose of this installation is to cut down on the amount of time I have to run my generator to recharge the batteries. I have all LED lighting and never run an inverter to power AC loads. Cost is an issue (right now my total investment in the system is about $100) as always.
As for what constitutes low voltage wire, that's a very good question. The wire is marked 150v and 30v. Either one is below what I need so I'm not concerned.
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Mike Schriber
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08/18/12 03:55pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Mounting solar panels
I went foraging at Home Depot today for another project and took a look at their wire selection on a whim. I discovered that they carry two conductor 10 AWG stranded copper (quite flexible) low voltage landscape wire. It's $.98 a foot and the insulation is UV resistant.
Just an FYI for anyone else setting up a system with relativity low current and/or short run from the panels to the controller.
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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08/17/12 11:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Mounting solar panels
I know getting pissy is the wrong thing to do but sometimes it just gets to me. Renoman had a great link. It's the same one he posted earlier in the thread. Sigh. Almot, your post annoyed me because of it's tone and the fact it ignored my actual question about connecting the panels and the feedline (that's an interconnect). Everyone's later posts became much more helpful.
Anyway, I'm sorry for getting pissy. I have a lot of experience with solar (I have a 40KW installation on my building that I service all the time) but an RV installation is different (and each RV installation itself is different).
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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08/17/12 01:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Mounting solar panels
I love how some people just pop into the thread without reading what's been posted before (renoman69) or don't actually read the question at all (Almot). Quantity over quality seems to be the trend these days.
I decided to use the box smkettner specifically since I was planning on adding more panels. If there was an easy way to skip it I would but I can't think of a better solution if I'm going to need to add in more panels and connect additional wires. I guess I'll just use wire nuts to start and reevaluate in the future if I add more panels.
Thanks for the feedback!
Mike
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Mike Schriber
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08/17/12 09:49am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Mounting solar panels
No connectors, just bare wires. One panel for now, probably more in the future. Everything will join up in a single gang junction box mounted to the roof.
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Mike Schriber
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08/16/12 11:43pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Mounting solar panels
Okay, so I attached by "L" brackets today and they look good. The spacing of the frame off the roof is a little less than 1" but the panel itself will be at least 1.5" from the roof so I think I'm okay.
I'm working on the wiring now. How has everybody made the interconnect between their panels and feedline on the roof? Wire nuts? Solder? Terminal blocks?
Thanks!
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Mike Schriber
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08/16/12 10:10pm |
Tech Issues
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