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RE: Black tank won't drain...
I'm beginning to think you worry to much about it. When you haul the rig down the road the liquid in the tanks moves. When you use the toilet you add water to it. When you leave a campsite you dump it. If you flush the tank and shine a flashlight into the tank you should be able to see if there is any liquid in it. Like one post said, maybe you don't have anything in the tank.
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MrDoneIt65
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05/01/13 07:58am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Black tank won't drain...
Go to the website for your brand of motorhome and see if you can get the information. If not then do a Google. Mine has a 50 gal black water, 50 gallon gray water, and 100 gallon fresh water.
I would think the amount of water to mix with the deodorant would be on the packet. If you drop it in the water and then flush wouldn't that make it dissolve? I use the small bottles. Never really worried about it.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/30/13 05:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Black tank won't drain...
Oh, and another little trick I learned. I got a piece of half inch copper tubing about 3' long, put an elbow on one end with a hose connection on which I placed a high pressure nozzle. Then on the other end I put another elbow to give me better control, a brass shut off valve because their stronger, and a hose connection to fasten it to a garden hose. I hold the valve down to open the toilet drain and put the nozzle down into the black water tank and my wife turns on the water. I put a clear plastic connector on the end of the drain so I can see what is coming out and you would be surprised how much stuff comes out, even though the tank shows empty. I think the tissue must get stuck in the corners or around where the pipes are connected and it builds up. The high pressure water breaks it loose. Simple little device, carry it with us in a storage compartment, use it a couple times a year.
"If I ain't DoneIt it probably ain't worth talking about".
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MrDoneIt65
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04/30/13 02:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Black tank won't drain...
Never had this happen on a black water tank but I did have a gray water valve that the handle pulled out of it when I went to dump it. Only way to fix it was to take it apart. Sometimes you have to do what you got to do. It was a mess. Then I let someone use my travel trailer once when they had an older family member visiting. They shoved Depends in the toilet. I pulled up next to the dump and ran a rod up the valve. I pulled out a few old Depends and then the tank let go and******went everywhere. Took a while to hose that mess into the drain. Happy Trails! If I ain't DoneIT it ain't worth talking about.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/30/13 02:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Rear AC won’t turn on after I change selector to rear AC
I experienced this problem shortly after I bought the Southwind. Turned out to be interference from the converter, which was located under my refrigerator and the control unit for the air conditioners. Had to change the converter to a better model. I also had a problem with my front air conditioner icing up and it burned out the compressor. Turned out that when Fleetwood installed it they did not untape the probe and put it in the coils like they were suppose to do. I bought a new, 15,000 btu conditioner and put it on the roof myself. I put a ladder up against the end of the motor home, disconnected the burned up unit, tied a rope to it and let it down the ladder. Then I tied the rope to the new unit, pulled it up the ladder, carried it down to the opening, hooked it up, I have more cold air than I ever had from the OEM. And Fleetwood didn't give a dang.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/30/13 02:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: No power to slide outs
On my slide outs they say to have the engine running so that the maximum voltage is present and never put the slides out without having the jacks down.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/30/13 02:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: No power to slide outs
I had problems with my bedroom slide when I first bought the Fleetwood Southwind. It wouldn't come back in. So I got out the little Power Gear book and looked at how to trouble shoot. I finally took the cover off the mechanism and found that Fleetwood had cut all the holes in the ceiling for the air conditioners, the lights, and what ever else was worked on that would create wood chips, aluminum chips, and pieces of fiberglass and they had dumped them in the slide out mechanism. I vacuumed it out, wiped out all the remaining particles, and lubricated it with slide out lube. Still wouldn't work. Then I happened to look at the little control units and the one for the bedroom slide was in the front of the compartment and the one for the living room slide was mounted in the back of the compartment. Plus the Power Gear booklet did not say anything about a slow blow fuse. I switched the fuses and surprise, surprise, the slide out came in. The trash in the compartment has jammed the mechanism and caused the slo blow fuse to blow. So I took the screws out and mounted the front slide control in the front and the bedroom slide in the rear. Why couldn't Fleetwood have done that?
Then last summer my living room slide out stopped coming in. It would go out just fine but when it came in it would reach a point where it was raised up to come in, flat floor slide, and it would blow the relay. Not the fuse.
I had to climb under the slide out and use a 3/4" socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet while my wife jogged the switch and it would come in. I had the motor tested and a technician determined that it was not putting out enough torque. So I change the motor at a cost of over $700.00. Simple to fix, cost a lot to fix it. I lubed the slides with a good quality slide lube and it now works great. Keep your slides lubed and use a lubricant designed for that purpose. Not WD-40.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/30/13 02:13pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome headlights.
Received the new "Glass" lenses today. Perfect. No more fogging. And they were not thin little pieces of glass, they were thick and fit the headlight as good as the plastic OEM. One of those jobs I actually had fun doing. Tried to find a way to post a before and after picture of the lights but doesn't seem to be available. Good luck and thanks for the input.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/30/13 01:56pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What's a Good Deal on 275-80-22.5 S Korean or Japanese Tires
Buy American. They don't buy American made RV's in Japan or Korea, why send them you hard earned dollars?
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MrDoneIt65
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04/30/13 01:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome headlights.
wny-pat, this is why I really like RV.net. Through this website you have supplied information that I didn't have to give. I checked out the Daniel Stern website. Now, thanks to you, others will have better information than I did just doing a google search. Am I to assume that Daniel Stern is the supplier that I purchased my glass lenses from? E-bay does not give the name of the person.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/29/13 09:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome headlights.
wny_pat, I don't know Daniel Stern and the glass lenses go on the existing headlights. One of the E-Bay sellers sent me an e-mail reply that stated the lights they were selling were for dressing up a VW Golf. They stated I could purchase different bulbs. But since I am only replacing the lens and not the entire fixture new bulbs won't be necessary. When I e-mailed the E-Bay seller I put the numbers I got from the lens in the e-mail. I guess I made a mistake in my original post. They were Hella's not Haas. My mistake.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/29/13 09:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome headlights.
And if you use a kit to remove the fogging then the headlights will do it again. I don't ever remember seeing a fogged glass headlight lens.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/29/13 08:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome headlights.
If the "glass" lenses are as good as the seller claims, I won't have to use toothpaste or buy kits to clean my headlights. If manufacturers are going to use a plastic headlight lens you would think they would come up with a way to protect them from the road grime and uv rays that attack them. Why should you have to use a kit or buy new lights after 4 or 5 years of driving.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/29/13 08:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome headlights.
And if you find replacement lenses, take your time removing the old ones. They have a heat sensitive sealant around them. You have to heat it up with a hair dryer or a heat gun. I used a heat gun. I suggest wearing nitrite gloves. Then DO NOT put masking tape or painters tape on the chrome around the light while you clean the excess sealant out of the sealant area. It will pull the chrome off the plastic. Take you time, don't get in a hurry, and do not get frustrated. I did it, you can too.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/29/13 12:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome headlights.
Forgot one thing. I took a picture of one of the headlights in my motorhome and sent it to 3 of the companies selling them on e-bay. 2 of them responded. One said they could not guarantee the lights would fit. The other said they would definitely fit but that since they were "dress up" lights for a VW Golf they might not put out enough light for a motorhome. But that I could buy different bulbs. The ones they sold had a neon ring around the headlight bulb to make them look cool. But it helped me with the information I was looking for to fix my problem.
I will post what happens when I get the glass lenses.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/29/13 12:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Motorhome headlights.
The company was on E-Bay and is called Volx-tuning. I did a Google and typed in headlights for 2002 Southwind motorhome. The information came up the headlights were from a 1999 to 2005 VW Golf GTI. I called a VW dealer and then stopped at a NAPA parts store to get the original cost. Then I went to E-Bay and typed in the info on the VW Golf GTI headlights. Pictures of headlights for sale popped up with different prices. Among the ads was the one for Volx-tuning and their glass replacement lenses. There was a video to show how to take the original plastic lenses off the headlights. I am suppose to get the new lenses on April 30th. I have already removed the plastic lenses and am ready to put the new ones on when they arrive.
Typing in the numbers on the lenses for Google didn't help me. But when I took the headlights out I found they were made by Haas, which is a German company.
As I said, this is just a heads up. Just like the Amish coils for the Norcold refrigerator, if you do some investigating you can save some money. I just happen to be one of those people who have experienced a lot of problems and had to learn to be MrDoneIt. From the mufflers falling off on the way home from the dealer, to the gas leak because the filler tube wasn't clamped to the tank neck, to the air conditioner that burned up because the sensor probe wasn't installed in the cooling coils, to the brakes locking up and melting the oil sumps off the wheels, I have experienced the full load.
I had to order a new electric cooling fan that mounted on the front of the radiator/air conditioning coil and the Workhorse guy ask me how many miles I had on my unit. When I said 30,000 he said, "Wow, you don't drive your motorhome much, do you". To which I replied, "Hell, the blasted thing has been under recall for one reason or the other for 6 years. I am surprised it has that many miles on it". I finally bought a set of SS rotors for the front brakes or I still wouldn't be able to drive it.
Happy Camping!
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MrDoneIt65
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04/29/13 12:11am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Motorhome headlights.
My headlight lenses fogged over. Got really bad to the point it was affecting the light on the highway. I tried one of those kits to remove the fog and that turned out to be a joke. So I decided to replace the headlights. Just like everything else in a motorhome they use something manufactured by someone else. I investigated and found out my Southwind has Volkswagen headlights made in Germany. They came from a 1999 to 2005 VW Golf GTI. I went to NAPA and found out that replacement units were over $400.00 a piece. I called Volkswagen and they said $316.00 a piece.
I groaned. Then I went to e-bay. The complete unit could be bought for less than $150.00 but they appeared to be for a VW that was tripped out by a young driver. Then I found a company that makes glass replacement lenses. I don't know if they make them for other applications.
I am posting this as a heads up. Before you replace the headlight for your unit at a high cost, do some investigating. You might luck out like I did. The glass lenses for my VW headlights cost less than $70.00 for the pair, including free shipping. And there was a video instruction on how to remove the old fogged plastic lenses and replace them with the glass lenses.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/28/13 07:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Refrigerator woes
Taking advice from Fleetwood may have been your first mistake.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/28/13 07:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Refrigerator woes
Check the wiring on your cooling fans and make sure they are working. I found out that mine were switched in the control panel on the back of the fridge. Plus, when they put the new coils in the fridge did they put the caulking between the coils and the cooling fins properly. When I replaced mine with the Amish coils they sent an instruction sheet with the tube of caulk that explained that it had to be put in properly. Just a suggestion. My Norcold refrigerator was working great until they started the recalls, then I wound up with blown coils. Replacing them with the Amish coils was a very simple job.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/28/13 07:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fire Hazard Appliance Recalls UPDATED NORCOLD INFO 11-20-2010
I replaced the coils in my Norcold almost 3 years ago. It works great. No recall sensor necessary. And I would check the wiring connection for the cooling fans. I found out mine was wired backwards. Even though they are 12 volt pancake fans they will not work if the black wire and white wire are switched in the control panel on the back of the refrigerator. My original coils, with the recall sensor installed, blew out. Instead of buying a residential refrigerator and going through the problem of fit and finish to install it in the motorhome, I put in the Amish made coils. A whole lot cheaper than rebuilding the cabinet area around the fridge and it still works on propane.
Think about it.
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MrDoneIt65
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04/28/13 06:58pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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