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RE: Which batteries power in dash radio?
mine defaults to the chassis battery just like my cars. But I have a swx right next to it that allows it to switch to the two house batteries. Kind of handy if you don't want to power-up the whole chassis just too listen to the radio for an extended time.
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MustangGT
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06/18/13 06:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water jets for radiator / oil / trans coolers
12v NC water valve
I like your valve much better than the huge sprinkler valve from Orbit/Rainbird I was looking at. Ebay has many and low $$$ too.
So: valve ~$10
momentary swx/wire etc:~$15
nozzles ~$8
tubing/elbows/couplings etc: ~$15
filter (i have hard water): ~$14
total:~$62
I'll "t" off from my PEX fresh water tank line. that 80 gallons will provide TONS of cooling. I'll have to test this set-up first to determine if a dedicated 70psi pump (ebay) is needed for an efficient mist. I don't want a stream. I want a Mist. Just because.
Maybe swap in a REAL engine temp gauge with REAL numbers. DYK, would that be a straight swap from the OE "Normal" gauge?
thx for the ideas.
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MustangGT
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06/12/13 12:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water jets for radiator / oil / trans coolers
I design my project too big, then trim them back to a more realistic effort/budget.
I found the 70psi pumps on e-bay. they look like my current RV house water pump. My pump is way up in the water tank bay. basically not reachable by hand. Mfg plate with specs is not visible. Wouldn't that pressure be close to 70psi? what kind of psi are in the older RV's (1997 fleetwood)?
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MustangGT
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06/09/13 10:29am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water jets for radiator / oil / trans coolers
Your not going to use it that much.....5-10 gal tank and distilled or purified water. Wallmart garden has a 4 spicket manifold and the nozzels..., I suggest only a momentary SW.....
yes, I may be getting carried-away for something I may use on just 1 trip every other year...:(
I will check on the walmart stuff. I wish I knew the required PSI for all the different mister heads available. I have seen very few that list the Droplet Size per PSI rating. sort of like listing light bulb lumens without the wattage.
THX
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MustangGT
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06/08/13 10:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help with new engine decision
After I replaced my RV's carpet with tile I re-carpeted the doghouse with some funky light-gray shag. As mentioned above, use the old pieces as patterns. Even in ripped-up shape, they are a big help and will cut down on waste. Attach to doghouse with regular contact cement (paint brush style in a can, not a tube). The secret is to form the carpet pieces to the fiberglass curves using very light warming of the backing with a heat gun on LOW or a blow dryer on medium heat. The backing will take the shape of the curves (even compound curves) easily! I couldn't believe it. Then slobber some glue on both surfaces, wait a minute or two, then STICK THEM TOGETHER. Kind of fun actually. The shag made matching the edges less of a chore. I did ours with 6 pieces.
edit: I recounted> 8 pieces counting the surrounding humpy part + the lid.
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MustangGT
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06/07/13 07:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water jets for radiator / oil / trans coolers
thx Berner! I will check those out.
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MustangGT
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06/06/13 09:14am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water jets for radiator / oil / trans coolers
I will probably have to add a booster pump. The mist nozzles may not generate effective mist at the 60psi my house pump delivers. Could be a deal-braker. We shall see with a little more research.
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MustangGT
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06/06/13 08:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help with new engine decision
That musty RV smell drove my wife crazy and she insisted the OE carpet be cleaned and ultimately removed. I had steam cleaned it and the furniture 6 times since we bought it a few months before. It was in excellent shape. But I tore the carpet all out and replaced it with vinyl peel and stick tiles. Most (80%) of the musty smell disappeared with the carpet and hasn't returned. (BTW, The carpet backing and pad were spotless.) I'm sure more of the mustiness would leave if we recovered the furniture with a leather-like product.
Just another instance when she was right and I'd rather not admit it.
Carpet & furniture stored in a high-humidity environment has to be expected to become musty. The foam padding absorbs the moisture.
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MustangGT
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06/06/13 06:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water jets for radiator / oil / trans coolers
I want (need?) to convert to a numeric engine gauge and add a tranny temp gauge. those would be nice to have before-hand. to provide before and after data.
My RV's radiator is completely hidden by the A/C condensor. the trans, power steering and oil coolers are set low in front, so I'll probably aim 60% of the mist down, but who knows where the mist will go at 60-70 mph? Will it fill the front of the engine bay and swirl around aimlessly (too much misting) or stream straight in (too little mist or too low a pressure). A happy medium will have to be found in that 12" gap between the back of the grill and the front of the radiators. I may need to add some mist-head extenders or change my mounting locations. Questions, questions...
Maybe I'll have my son rig-up his little HD camera so we can see some side-on, real-time streaming video of the mist system at speed. that would be neat to see.
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MustangGT
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06/04/13 02:22pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water jets for radiator / oil / trans coolers
A fan mister system would be a little easier.
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MustangGT
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06/04/13 12:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water jets for radiator / oil / trans coolers
I'm gonna do it. My RV already carries 80 gallons of water and a strong fresh water pump, so some savings there. And temptation....
Add a 3/8" Orbit Mister Kit from Lowes attached behind the front grill ($25), a thermal fan switch from JEGS Or Summit with a radiator probe ($45) and maybe a SPST switch for manual operation ($5), a dash light so I know when the system switches on ($5), then a little water filter ($15) and a Rainbird type solenoid switch ($16).
I can probably fit most of this in a small plastic utility-style box locatable in the front right basement compartment ($40). total cost around $150.
I wish I had this system during our Colorado trip last August. That road got red HOT in New Mexico. And the Colorado mountains are TALL. Wolf Creek Pass was awesome. The ol' V8 shifted down to 3rd and then to 2nd once or twice. Temp gauge was up to the "L" in "Normal". the engine, tranny and all the rest never missed a beat.
I pamper my camper.
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MustangGT
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06/04/13 11:09am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replacing shower sky light... How?
I wonder which option, the self-leveling caulk or the tape has the best durability? the factory used the caulk on my roof stuff.
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MustangGT
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05/31/13 09:13am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Road handling issues
Rear Trac Bar system will fix most of your problem. I designed mine and had it built for $134. Installed it myself.
Eliminated 90% of wind push from weather and passing trucks. Zero maintenance.
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MustangGT
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05/29/13 01:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: where do you guys park your mh when not using
Kept parked next to the house on a concrete driveway, plugged into my 30amp shore power with a Batterytender Jr run from a front bay 120v outlet to the chassis battery. Cable TV coax run from house also. that keeps everything warm or cool as I want it, functioning or ready to function. Its sheltered by trees on the East and the carport on the West. It does get direct sun for about 5 hours a day fromthe South, but the windshield cover reflects most of the heat from the interior.
I've always heard not to store on grass or gravel because of the dampness causing rust on the chassis. Also, not to park long on asphalt due to the rubber tires contact sucking-up the black gooey stuff.
Windy conditions are my second biggest problem, causing me to live with the biggest problem, the direct sun. I'd love to have a $20k high-bay for the RV, or at least a silver tarp to shade the roof, but it would only be a week or two before the wind would trash the tarp (and possibly cause collateral damage) and such a high-bay can't be justified for a $18k RV. lolol. Maybe someday.
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MustangGT
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05/29/13 07:37am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Should my AC empty condensor water to the roof?
My a/c's condensate usually drips off the gutter extender outside the driver's side window after it leaves the roof. Doesn't hurt anything. That is a way better design on most lower cost units than having any water pipe running unnecessarily inside a thin wall panel.
I have found some green slime to the rear of each A/c unit as this area rarely sees direct sun during storage. It is easy to clean-up or just let the heat dry and evaporate it.
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MustangGT
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05/28/13 07:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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How to refill my EZ-Glide Hydraulic Tank
I know where my fluid tank for my 1997 RV"s slide is, but what is the proper level? I can't see any "fill" line, molded into the tank or printed etc. I've had the RV for 3 years and have never topped it up. I assume to fill with Dextron II like my levelers.
I have the user guide, but can't find the "How to Fill" data.
thx
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MustangGT
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05/28/13 06:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Air Compressor Projects - Anyone?
i bought a small Viair type compressor and added a 3 gallon reservoir, water trap and pressure valve from Airbagit.com. Mounted the compressor/tank in the forward passenger side compartment and ran a line back to the rear side utility compartment where I put a Lowes air-reel with 50' of 1/4" line. I have used it many times and even use it instead of my big compressor in the garage. that 50' reel is handy to pull out.
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MustangGT
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05/28/13 11:30am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Sway bars???
If your RV suffers from the tail-wagging-the-dog type problem, you should install a rear track-bar. I did and the track-bar almost completely eliminated the big push the camper would get from passing semi's and from strong gusts of wind perpendicular to the vehicle.
Your RV should have air-bags to help the suspension. If they and the tires are inflated correctly you may need to check the front-end alignment. Shocks and springs should be OK in such a newish RV.
I've only driven the one RV I have, so I have nothing to compare it to. Mine may handle like a dump-truck, but I don't care. Adds to the fun.;)
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MustangGT
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05/28/13 11:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: rear lights
the more you pay, the more you get. The cheapest clearance lights I've found sport 2 LEDs for $5.95. The 10-12 LED types run about twice that.
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MustangGT
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05/28/13 11:09am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Shhhh! Quiet that Motor - Ford F53
Roxul type insulation isn't available at the home centers here in the deep south USA. Only pink fiberglass and the various hard foam sheets; white, blue etc. Also the shiny bubble wrap kind of stuff for home attics.
i have heard several folks use the shiny stuff to reflect heat from their RV windows, but securing that fragile stuff under the hood would be iffy. And it is electrically conductive.
The sticky, tarry, shiny sheets seem like the best bet to reject heat and sound in an exposed area.
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MustangGT
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05/23/13 09:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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