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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: A/C water down the outside
IF you are 'off level' enough that it is noticeable I would be more concerned with running fridge than condensation from A/C evap coil.
OFF LEVEL fridge operation causes damage which is accumulative and over time will cause clogging in fridge tubing.
Especially for a rig that never moves........
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Old-Biscuit
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06/18/13 07:57am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Water pump
The water pump discharge and the 'city water' connection BOTH feed the same plumbing system.
Depending on which one has higher pressure will determine which source feeds system IF using both.
Water pump has an internal check valve to prevent 'city water' source to backfeed thru pump and vice versa 'city water' connection has a check valve to prevent water pump to feed thru connection.
Typical standard rv water pump has discharge pressure of 45-55 psi.
'City water' sources can have various pressures.......30 to over 100 psi depending on source. Because of the various pressures that can be found it is a 'safe' idea to use a pressure regulator when connected to 'city water' source.......Watts makes a several good adjustable ones.
Ours is set for 50 psi (static)
http://www.marxrv.com/plumbing/blkdia1.gif
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Old-Biscuit
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06/18/13 07:51am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Sunnybrook hot water electrodes
Red and brown wires are 12V DC and go to t-stats
Electric element uses 120V AC power.
Element and wiring are under the cover on backside of tank
The ON/OFF switch on cover needs to be in ON position for electric element to work
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Old-Biscuit
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06/17/13 11:23am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: No hot water pressure. Atwood.
Hot water outlet.........check valve failing......did you replace or use old one?
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Old-Biscuit
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06/17/13 11:20am |
Tech Issues
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RE: What happens if you plug a 50 Amp RV into 22V welder plug
Since most welder receptacles don't have a neutral, there is no safe way to connect to them even if you wire an adapter. The ground & neutral should be separate wires; combining them will create shock hazards both in the RV & from the ground wiring between the RV & the source.
Trying to use the RV without a neutral will result in unusual voltages on the two legs - depending on the loads on each leg you could end up with a couple of volts on one & almost 240V on the other.
Attempting to use the ground as a neutral will put the neutral voltage on all the bonded metal between the RV & the source - not only a shock hazard for you in the RV, but also for those that touch plumbing, heating ducts, etc. In other words, unless it is a 4 pole connector wired with separate neutral & ground connections, don't use it.
Thank you....someone that understands electricity and the different ways it can be wired.
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Old-Biscuit
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06/05/13 09:27pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Burning RV's
Yes and no I was running the fridge on propane while pulling it...don't know if a ammonia leak reached the pilot light or what but know for a fact the fridge was the cause of the fire....it was a dometic 2652 fridge.
I thought you posted it was a rats nest or something in flue?
Running fridge on propane while traveling is no different than running fridge on propane while parked.
Routine cleaning makes all the difference.
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Old-Biscuit
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06/05/13 09:15pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Water heater question Lexington GTC class C
IF..'on the side of the rv, behind the panel that has an on/off button' means the outside panel where burner assembly is......turn that ON/OFF switch to ON
Make sure water heater tank is full FIRST.
That should turn on the electric element
The ON/OFF switch in convenience center should be for propane
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Old-Biscuit
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06/05/13 09:02pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Water Hookup and Water Pump Problems
Agree ^^^^^
The squealing noise & low water pressure is from a faulty inlet check valve on 'city water' connection
The rapid fire pump cycling......pull the aerators on faucets and check for plugging.
Run pump with aerators removed, check pump action & flow
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Old-Biscuit
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06/05/13 08:51pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Black Tank Issue
Could be a poop pyramid right at the bottom of toilet dump line
OR
could be the vent line is too long (sticks to far down into tank).
Remember.....waste tanks are long, wide but not really very deep.
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 08:35pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: New camper. Water features
Where ever we use the pump it is turned ON until next time we have shore water.
It is an 'on demand' pump meaning it only runs when there is a drop in pressure......that could be a faucet being opened, toilet being flushed OR a leak!
We would turn it off if we left rig for any extended time but while in/around rig it is on.
I like to keep things simple.......hate trying to remember to turn pump on, water heater on etc. When I open a faucet/flush toilet I want water to flow.
And when I use Hot water I want Hot water not 20 mins. later.
Just me.......find what works for you
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 08:23pm |
Hybrid Travel Trailers
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RE: How the pro RV transporters tow
Time is money and it isn't their rv.
Doubt any MFG. would hire someone that showed up with a 1/2, 3/4 or SRW 1 ton tow vehicle........or maybe they would.
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 02:28pm |
Towing
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RE: New camper. Water features
Typical RV water system......
http://www.marxrv.com/plumbing/blkdia1.gif
Fresh water tank & pump OR 'city water' connection on side of rig supply the hot/cold water plumbing (sinks/showers/toilet)
Make sure that water heater is full BEFORE using the heating source(s)....propane/electric....ESPECIALLY the electric (it will burn out if not submersed in water.
Water heater will fill when running pump OR turning 'city water' supply on...just open closest faucet (hot side) to get air out of system.
Black tank (toilet)......best to dump when full/almost full (high liquid volume & weight carry the 'stuff' out.
After dumping....flush/rinse tank if possible. Then close drain valve and add a couple gallons water back into black tank (two toilet bowls works). This will keep bottom of tank wet so 'stuff' doesn't stick to bottom, dry out, pile up & stink.
Then drain grey tank....soapy water helps flush/rinse drain line and sewer hose
Have fun.....go camping.
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 02:21pm |
Hybrid Travel Trailers
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RE: Is it safe to load a big touring motorcycle into a TH??
Isn't that why TH's were made?
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 02:10pm |
Toy Haulers
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RE: has anyone installed the Camco water heater coversion kit
Same kind of aftermarket heating rod design that goes in the drain plug.
Hott Rod & Lightnng Rod are two other ones.
They will help maintain hot water and will heat water (although slower due to small wattage of heating rod).
Only words of caution:
1) Both Suburban and Atwood will void any water heater warranty if they are used.
2) Suburban requires the use of an anode rod to protect tank from deterioration so make sure the one you use has an anode rod attachment
3) IF used........don't forget to drain/flush tank routinely. ALL needed periodic draining/flushing.
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 02:07pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Question re: LP tanks in FW
Space heaters are GREAT....provided they are used to supplement the rig furnace.
In temps below 32*F the rv furnace is necessary to keep plumbing system from freezing....especially if underbelly/tanks etc. are heated from furnace system.
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 01:56pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Engineers strike again,water inlet
Germaphobes and OCD seem to always crop up when the subject of waste tanks, potable water and rv sewage is discussed.
Common sense will handle majority of concerns.........
Fill your fresh water tank with a potable water hose.
Connect 'city water' source with a potable water hose
Use a regular garden hose for connection to waste tank flush
Use a regular garden hose for connection to a macerator
Just remember......regardless of your set up. There is only 1 (one) water connection at the source be it full hook up CG or just a water station.
Dump stations MAY have a non-potable water connection (MAY) but all other connections are typically potable water so BOTH drinking water & flush/rinse water starts at the hose bib.
Common Sense :B
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 01:50pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Engineers strike again,water inlet
Location, location, location........only so much room to install tanks.
Waste tanks take up most of the locations on roadside sooooooooo fresh water tank has to go some where.
Would rather have fresh water fill on curbside vs waste tank drain(s)
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 10:10am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Question re: LP tanks in FW
Auto change over regulators are nice.......swaps from in service tank when empty to other tank without doing anything.
BUT one must check the indicator to know when tanks have swapped.
Green indicator will change to Red when in service tank goes empty.....then swap lever to other tank and Red indicator will go Green.
Problem is 'when' did it swap.......yesterday, last week etc.
IF one does not check indicator routinely then one may find themselves with 2 empty tanks.
Even with an auto change-over we keep one tank valved out so that when the in service tank goes empty we know it.......valve in other tank, change indicator lever and get empty tank refilled.
Propane usage varies a lot!
We have had to refill 30# every other day in really cold weather and have gone 6 weeks straight on one tank. Just depends on heater usage.
Hate finding out both tanks are empty :B
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Old-Biscuit
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06/04/13 09:52am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: No interior lights...
What did you use to maintain the battery charge when trailer was stored and what do you use to recharge battery when you use the trailer?
Sounds like a dead trailer battery.
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Old-Biscuit
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06/03/13 11:11pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: STRANGE OCCURRANCE
Sorta happened to us........
Roadside front tire blew and the thread ripped the sewer line off at the drain manifold........black tank, grey tank & galley tank all dumped in one big whoosh on the highway and everyone behind us. We had boondocked for weekend and hadn't dumped tanks.
Got the rig pulled off to the side and not one person stopped to help but several 'waved'
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Old-Biscuit
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06/03/13 11:02pm |
General RVing Issues
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