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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Strut to hold up cabinet
Maybe something like this would work.
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OnaQuest
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05/21/13 02:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: generator wierdness
Check for a tripped breaker on your generator. It has two output breakers and it sounds like one is tripped.
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OnaQuest
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05/20/13 06:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need help with hood locks - pictures included
Lowe's and HD actually have a pretty good selection of these locks. You might get lucky there.
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OnaQuest
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05/20/13 10:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ford F-Super Duty Truck manual
Just one problem. The F-53 chassic didn't come out until 1999.
That's going to come as a big surprise to my '97 F-53
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OnaQuest
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05/19/13 01:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What are these? And do they need replacing?
Okay, you folks have convinced me. The OP should immediately remove the old breakers (now that he knows what they are) and then remove the rusty terminals from the wires... Of course he has all the proper size replacement terminals and the proper tools and skills to strip the insulation and crimp on the new terminals:?. Ya think?
Since he doesn't know what circuits (functions) these breakers control he doesn't know what, or how, to test when he's done.:h But then, that's not important. Right?
So guess when he discovers that one (or more) of his connections is defective? ...Right!! ...on the next road trip.
Of course he can always come back to the forum and get help from the same incompetent inbred group that didn't think it was important to leave things well enough alone until he had all the information required.
I didn't say to NEVER fix the potential problem, I just gave it a lower priority than actually learning what the result might be.
I guess I should have just used what most folks here consider a real in-depth reply, and said;
X2
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OnaQuest
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05/18/13 01:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What are these? And do they need replacing?
AS long as your breakers work, that's all you can ask of them. No reason to fix anything that works. If you HAVE to replace them on the road, do it then.
I don't like fixing things when I'm on a trip, when this seems like an easy do at home.
Preventive maintenance is a proven concept. Waiting until it fails is just plain foolish. For anyone that has worked on electrical connections, this is obviously a way beyond needing replacement. And, especially since it is so easy and inexpensive to do so. If you can change a light bulb, you can do this. It isn't rocket science.
No one is talking rocket science. My question to all you self appointed/anointed experts is:
Where do you suggest the OP stop? Do you honestly think these are the only rusty components on a 1993 Flair?
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OnaQuest
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05/18/13 09:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What are these? And do they need replacing?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I would agree with finding out just what circuits they are protecting and maybe purchase some spare breakers might be prudent.
So, you never change your oil or do any preventative maintenance at all???? Because if it ain't broke don't fix it?????? :h Doug
One of your totally predictable and inane comments.
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OnaQuest
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05/18/13 09:47am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What are these? And do they need replacing?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I would agree with finding out just what circuits they are protecting and maybe the purchase of some spare breakers might be prudent.
Those &^%$#@ things have been there for over 20 years (it's a '93 mh) and still working (presumably). The Op, and all you forum experts, don't even know what they do and your only suggestion is to replace immediately.
Like I said in my first reply, I agree those breakers have great potential for problems, but how about giving a little advice on obtaining some wiring diagrams and information from Fleetwood before ripping the old girl apart.:?
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OnaQuest
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05/18/13 07:55am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What are these? And do they need replacing?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I would agree with finding out just what circuits they are protecting and maybe purchase some spare breakers might be prudent.
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OnaQuest
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05/17/13 11:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water switch controller wiring
Thanks for your reply. I did try metering, both for voltage and continuity and found the results odd, hence my question to the forum.
I have four colors, red (heavy gauge-I assume is the 12 volt), red/white stripe (lighter gauge- assume this is like your grey that goes to the switch), white/red stripe (heavy gauge - assume is the load and is the same wire I find at one side of my pump) and black (heavy gauge and assumed to be ground as it connects to common ground on block). If I connect the wires this way, none of the water switches will turn on the pump and there is no light on the pump switch.
If I connect just the white/red together, the water pump works and the pressure switch works to cut off once max limit is reached. However, i still need to get the remote switches to work.
I deduced that my problem was the latching controller, esp since it sits below my fridge and the ice maker line leaked and could have possibly shorted out the circuitry since the board sits on the floor board (not a great design IMHO).
My furnace is not turning on so I also suspect the water leak also partially fried my intellitec controller. AC works fine though.
Thanks for your help, I'll get back to troubleshooting.
You can check the operation of the latching controller by hooking up the RED to the 12v input, the black to ground, the heavy red/white wire to the LOAD terminal and then.... apply ground to the terminal labeled SWITCH. If it works, you are down to a wiring problem.
Here are some additional trouble shooting steps I would try. (maybe not in order)
I would look around the area and see if you can't find another wire (the missing gray wire) some place in the floor areaI would remove one of the switches and determine what color wires are on the back of the switchesI would attach the smaller gauge red/white wire to 12v and see if the switch lights came on
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OnaQuest
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05/17/13 03:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water switch controller wiring
I just replaced my mpx latching controller for the water pump switch in a 2000 Fleetwood discovery. Either I got a dead part or I messed up the wiring. Can someone tell me the proper wire colors for the +12 v, switch, load and gound connectors. Greatly appreciated!
The color code used by Fleetwood in the installation of your controller may, or may not, be the same as any other manufacturer. Metering out the various wires (there are only four) should not be a real problem.
PS - If you have lighted switches, there may be a second wire on the +12v terminal to provide power to those lights.
My Fleetwood (Bounder) uses the following code:
+12v - RED
Switches - GRAY
Ground - BLACK
Pump - Red/White
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OnaQuest
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05/17/13 01:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Electrical
Right, except you need very large and short cables between battery and inverter. Do that, and you're good to go.
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OnaQuest
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05/16/13 06:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: powergear leveling jacks
Here's a better manual.
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OnaQuest
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05/15/13 09:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Got 15 miles ... brake problems ... Mid State RV = AWESOME!
You forgot to tell us what you had for breakfast???????? :)
He forgot what he had for breakfast.
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OnaQuest
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05/15/13 12:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Crazy steering wobble/shake
It's called the Death Wobble. Google it.
I had it happen on my Ford superduty also. I installed a Steer Safe and haven't had any more problems. You could try that, or a different steering stabilizer. Maybe the safety steer.
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OnaQuest
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05/13/13 10:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Batteries not charging from power cord.
Is there a switch by the entry door labeled "USE" and "STORE". If so, push the top of the switch to re-activate the battery disconnect solenoid.
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OnaQuest
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05/13/13 12:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Generator AC question
Your generator has two 120vac outputs. One 30amp output and one 20amp output. It sounds like the 20amp circuit breaker is tripped on the generator. The 20amp output is the one that feeds the front air conditioner.
The breakers may be located on the end of the generator and a little difficult to see. Flip them OFF and back ON and your front air unit will probably magically start to work again.
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OnaQuest
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05/12/13 07:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What is the Ideal Battery Charging System?
If it, indeed, has the PD 45amp converter/charger in it, that's all you'll need. plug the camper power cord into the generator just like you intend to do when using the microwave. The PD will do it's thing.
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OnaQuest
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05/12/13 11:19am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 2000 Fleetwood Flair main battery disconnect
Be careful how you use the word "main". The MAIN battery switch, disconnects/connects the chassis/engine battery. The AUX battery switch does the same for the house/coach batteries, which power the interior lights.
(That's using the nomenclature on my switch panel, yours may be labeled differently)
Now to the meat of the problem. I suspect that your Flair uses the BCC (Battery Control Center) common to most Fleetwood coaches. Mine is located on the outside front firewall (under the hood, so to speak).
It's made by RV-Custom Products or possibly Intellitec. In any event it's electrically the same unit.
Here's a LINK to the diagrams and trouble shooting procedures. You should be able to work your way to a problem resolution with this manual.
I also have the RV-Custom Products diagrams, but they are not as easily read and understood. Available if needed.
Link will be active for 24 hours.
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OnaQuest
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05/11/13 12:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tire Replacement
I'm in the camp that says "replace them". One blowout can easily do $8K to $10K worth of damage to that rig. ...and that's with good luck.
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OnaQuest
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05/11/13 10:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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