The way that I de-winterize is to hook up to city water at the house and flush all the lines, including dumping the low-point drains. I also fill the hot water tank from my city water connection, rather than let the water-pump work overtime. It also gets the air out of the lines. Then I fill and drain the fresh water tank, adding bleach to sanitize it from sitting for a couple of months. I then disconnect the city water and run the pump to get sanitized water through the lines, and the H2O heater. I let it sit for at least 24 hours and then dump everything. Then I refill the fresh water tank to half full (just my way of traveling) and refill along with the H2O heater. Then I am ready to go.
I have the ability to dump my holding tanks at home, but if I didn't, my first stop is at the local RV dump and I get rid of all the water that I ran through my system. I then charge my holding tanks with a couple of gallons of water, some holding tank treatment and liquid Calgon (just to keep the tanks clean).
Thanks, I should do that too and take my time a little more. A level cement pad makes things easier for sure, mine is on the grass and not level, maybe I should have some square ciment tile and try to have a better ground.
How about you mark where your tires are, with tent pegs, just before you unload your camper. Then as soon as you pull out and clear the camper (pulling straight forward), mark where your tires are at at that time ... again with tent pegs. Next time you go to load, line up on the second set of pegs and roll straight back until you line up with the first set of pegs. I also use the center line on my horse stall mats that lay in the bed and a center mark on the front of the camper. You should be real close.
I actually have painted spots on my concrete that I line up with. Makes life easier.
I put a propane grill on the side of a motorhome, thinking that it would be great for tailgating parties. Charcoal would have been worse. Way to much heat against the side of the coach and the smoke and grease always made a mess. The inability to move it also proved to be a problem when the wind shifted.
I finally fabricated a bench to utilize the existing brackets and extended the grill away from the coach. I was still was not impressed with my modification.
Lots of better options with collapsible grilles these days.
I am like you. The price was just a bit on the steep side. When I need to cut down the light, I pull out my winter insulators made of reflectex that velcro to the walls and ceiling. It can be pitch black in the middle of a bright summer day. I store my reflectex under my mattress and have each one marked for which window, door or vent they fit. It is dark enough that I have worked on a 35mm camera like I was in the dark room at home.
I have searched the internet for hours and can not find the AMP draw on the coil to activate the relay. I would like to put a fuse between the Ignition point and the trigger side of the relay, just for safety. I have the four post version, but do not have the box for a part number and there is not one stamped on the isolator.
I know that I'll put a 30A resettable breaker on the Battery Feed side of the isolator. That will be plenty to charge the batteries while driving.
I would like to get this portion squared away before I start hanging battery boxes off the frame rails for more battery capacity.
Thanx in advance:
Darned old Chevrolet bed. I tried that with 4 T-105 batteries (2 in front of the wheel wells on both sides and two behind the wheel wells on both sides). I jus could not squeeze the camper in there with all four batteries. Just to much of a curve between the floor and side walls of the bed. I even tried to elevate the batteries to get them closer to the wall and it just got to be a mess.
As my fenders pass the front jacks (with the jacks swung out), I have just about 1" on either side. Keeping that in mind, also tells me that I am pretty straight while backing in.
I hope that this is the kind of answer you were looking for.
Not sure what kind of TV you have, but I got rid of my CTR dinosaur and put in an RCA 15" w/ DVD (12 volt) on an articulated arm. No more looking over my toes to see the screen.
Click for My modification.
I have my second RCA that uses an adapter, but it will run off of 12 volts. I had one in my last camper (it went as part of the sale) and I just added one to my new-to-me Truck Camper.
What I found out was that when I used my old flat screen with the adapter, through an inverter, it drew down the batteries faster, due to the inefficiency of the inverter. This current RCA also has DVD built in and it only draws 3.78A (measured)@ 12volts. I'll keep the adapter, but it is packed away for now.
I use my T/C as an office while parked here at home, and I leave the TV on for just a little background noise, either the weather or a news station.
When at a place of business, I always ask, no matter if there are signs or not. I have even asked gas station attendants and told them that I was just to tired to travel further. Never had anyone tell me no.
I have, on a couple of occasions, had an officer of the law knock on my door and ask me what I was doing. I tell them that I asked the attendant because I started felling sick and I didn't feel it was safe for me to travel further. Never had anymore discussion after that.
I just upgraded an upgrade that I did when I first got the T/C. I needed a storage spot for my 4 cell flash light and I bought a fishing rod holder and placed it next to the fire extinguisher, the same day that I bought the camper.
Today, while I was in Dick's Sporting goods, I saw a fishing rod holder for 3 poles:
Now I have a place for the flashlight and my combination broom and dustpan.
This weekend, I finally got all my mount parts to mount the new TV/DVD (RCA Deck 15DR 12/120 volt). I used Sanus wall mount (MF215) and added an extra arm from my Sanus Desk Mount (MD115-G1) that I didn't need because one arm on the desk mount was enough. I needed just a little more arm length in the camper to reach around the corner for the living area.
Pardon the mess in the cabinet, but spring cleaning has not started.
I am still making a foam insert that will fit behind the TV plus a couple of Velcro straps that will secure it while traveling.
I also installed a 12 volt socket near the back that I will use to keep the cell phones charged.
I was going to mount two more 12 volt sockets on each side of the bed for charging the cell phones at night, but I have to wait until the auto parts gets in another delivery. I'll mount them next to each of the lights in the front of the overhead sleeping area. I also need two more 12 volt sockets to mount next to the couch for the computer and tablet.
When I bought my 2002 K3500 Chev in 2006, with 65000 miles on it. I sure was glad that I purchased the extended warranty with a $50.00 deductible. Within the first week, the CPS went out and it cost me $50.00 but I had to take it back to have the ECU reprogrammed because the technician had not done it during the repair.
Over the next 25,000 miles, I also had the transfer case repaired due to a bushing that went out, oil leaks on the engine requiring new manifold bolts and gaskets, they replaced the radio that quit, two speakers had to be replaced, both passenger and driver window regulators were replaced along with the switches, rear springs would shift and the bushings were shot so they were replaced, numerous oil lines and trans lines were had minor leaks ... on several occasions, the left front hub was replaced due to a grinding noise, the BCM computer had to be replaced, both rear calipers were replaced due to becoming seized at different times, the anti-lock breaks required a new sensor at the right front and all of these took place before 89081 mileage ran out.
Some of the problems that I took it in for were on the same repair order, and they only charged me $50.00 for the combined repairs, rather than on separate work orders.
GM would not allow me to get another extended warranty and since then, I have had to replace the rear case to the transfer case, I had to replace all the U-joints and then had to have the drive-line balanced, I had all the brake lines replaced due to rust while one actually sprung a leak, have the rear gas line replaced due to rust, the left anti-lock sensor had to be replaced and I had to replace the "E" brake cables. All of these repairs were done on my dime. I did contact GM about some assistance on the $1000.00+ bill for the transfer case, due to the pump rub through and got no help.
Right now, I have a ton of rust coming through the door bottoms and the gas cap door needs replacing due to rust. AND I keep this truck washed at least once a week and waxed at least twice a year. Michigan weather and roads are hard on trucks.
Do I drive this truck hard? No. Do I overload the truck? No. I believe that it was just one of those bad trucks. Did GM treat me right? Only while I had the warranty. For those repairs after the warranty ran out, they wanted to take me to the cleaners (probably to recoup some of their losses) so I took it to an independent garage for the transfer case, I took the drive line to a machine shop and had it done for 50% of what the "stealership" wanted and I did all the rest on my own. I am also real disappointed with GM on not helping on their known problem of the pump rub through on the transfer case.
I have to say that while I had the warranty, I saved a ton of money. Would I buy another GM product? Probably not due to the frequency of repairs on this vehicle and the last two Chevy's that I have owned.
Must be the 6 gauge wiring then because everything checks out fine otherwise. I run through an old style contact point relay getting 13.6 vdc at the camper batteries with the truck running. Rather see the 14.2 that I see at the truck batteries though. Could be the relay contacts are a bit burnt too.
Next Ill check the truck side of the relay and compare that to the camper side. I'll bet I have bad contact there.
Thank you all as now I know it should be doing better.
If you are seeing your charging voltage at the batteries with the truck running, then you don't have a problem in anything to the T/C battery(s). I would suspect that you might have a battery problem, by itself. I would charge the batteries, outside the camper, and then do a load test to see if they actually have the capacity that they had when they were new. If you don't have the ability to do this test for yourself, I would take them to a reputable battery company and have them checked.
If you are charging more than the voltage at the T/C battery(s), then just track down the voltage loss to the point where it drops.
I would also check the truck battery to make sure that it is not inhibiting your charge.
I have to agree with Garry, I use reflectix during the winter on all my windows, the fantastic vent, the escape hatch, the bath roof powered/lighted vent and the access door to the wheel well on the driver's side. I also put it under the mattress and that really made a difference for winter camping.
I found clear velcro at Lowe's and use it to stick to the walls for the air gap at the windows and on the door. For keeping the pieces onto the ceiling, I just used the hook side of the velcro and stick it to the ceiling.
I have been able to work inside the camper all winter, even when we had out cold snap in Jan and Feb. All I use is two 1500 watt electric heaters, set at 70* and I am working in a "T" shirt.
That is going to be one nice looking rig when you are done.
I don't know if anyone is interested, but on March 7th, there is an Avion for sale. It looks like the majority of the interior has been gutted and from the few images, the exterior is in pretty good shape, with just a few minor scrapes on a rear corner.
You can find it on Craigslist, Detroit Metro. Just search for Avion Camper and you should be able to find it.
I hope that I have not violated the TOS on this site, but through out this thread there have been comments like "I would like to have one of those", so that is why I posted. It is not mine and I don't know this person.
I will say that the price seems a bit high, for being a project camper, but all the parts are supposed to still be with it.
I have looked all over the internet for someone who sells exterior propane boxes with doors, like the ones that we use on our T/C's.
I really need to move my batteries forward to get my C/G more forward. Right now, I have my batteries in the very rear of my camper and they are installed from the inside of the camper. (Uggggh) I would have enough room if I removed the stove/oven and replaced it with a 3 burner cook top. I could mount a propane box and door right into the wall of the camper. I have even looked for old campers that are ready for the scrap heap and I have found nothing. I would also like a vented door, but if I can't find one, that is a minor modification that could be made.
Rerouting the battery cables will be an easy chore, as they presently go into the rear basement area and under my closet to the Electric panel. The new battery location would also put the cables closer to the electric panel.
This is the outside of what I am looking for:
And I would have this much room to work with once I remove the oven. Even with my two T-105 batteries, it should give me room to move my Extension cords and other electrical stuff to this area. I could add a lock to this compartment, since it would not be used for propane.
I also have to replace my hot water heater this year and that will also help on modifying the wiring. I am thinking that with a propane box, it would be sealed, for the battery vapors, from the cook top.
A tin box would be OK, but a fiberglass box would be great. Any ideas where I can get a box with a door?