I am unable to see the photo and I am getting message as image not visible due to preference setting. I wanted to have a look, but I do not know what is wrong.
Which photos are you referring to, all of them or just certain ones?
I have no problems with any of them.
They are very nice to have, but not imperative if you are running your truck stock. If you are going to get gauges, I would look at a fuel pressure, EGT, tranny temp (if auto) and boost. IMO, EGT and tranny temp are the most important, though the others are useful as well.
I agree with Bionic Man. With the third generation Dodges, I am not sure how critical they all are.
From 1995 through 1998 (12-valve), I would want at least an EGT and tranny temp (if auto). The boost will be of value if you understand it. The fuel pressure is nice to give you a warning of fuel issues, but not critical on a 12-valve.
From 1998 through 2003 (24-valve), I would want at least an EGT, tranny temp (if auto), and Fuel pressure. The boost will be of value if you understand it. The fuel pressure is nice to give you a warning of fuel issues from the lift pump, which in turn can destroy your injector pump.
I have very little knowledge on your 2006 Dodge. I will say if it is an auto transmission, I would want a tranny temp gauge, especially if I tow in the mountains.
With the older Dodge transmissions, you build up heat real quick backing up for any length of time. You cool the transmission in neutral, not park or in gear while parked.
I have a highly modified 1996 (12-valve). I have fuel pressure, EGT (two), transmission temp (two, pan & torque converter) and boost. I use them all with my TC loaded, especially when flat towing my Samurai in the mountains. I have over 257,000 miles on my truck, with the original engine. It has not been in the shop, except transmission, since 2003.
bwanted, it appears you have a gray cloud over your head considering the number of posts you have made citing quality control related issues. Your last 25 posts cover at least two different truck manufactures, more than one truck or TC dealer, tires, wheels, and probably stuff I do not remember. Kind of interesting someone would be so unfortunate and have so many bad experiences. Have you had any long time positive purchases?
I think the only thing you will get from the glue is a mess, I would not use it. I would use a flat washer on each of the bolts replaced.
Two concerns I would have; drill only the bracket hole larger (if needed) and not the TC, and do not over tighten the new bolts.
From the photo, it looks like the water on the right side? If so, it looks like you could pull the water heater, and reach the inside. I would use something like a 1/8" drill, and drill through. You then might see if you can in fact use a nut and bolt.
To be honest, I would not be overly concerned. The jack lifts the TC up, and the pressure on those under wing bolts do not carry a load, but only keep the bottom of the bracket from sliding forward. They would do their job if only held in place with masking tape. The bolts in front do a very different job. If it were mu TC, I would use the next size larger lag bolt (not screw). I would only drill the steel part of the jack bracket. I kinda think the existing screws are 3/16, so you could use 1/4" lag screws to replace them. The Lag screw have a hex head, not Phillips as you probably have.
As for the gap, mine has had that since 1988. Never a problem. My guess is someone stripped the screw out trying to close that gap.
I would consider the next size larger lag bolt. Much easier than trying to fill an existing hole, and simply drilling more holes will weaken the wood the bolts screw into.
I still thinbk you should post a photo of one of the bolts, and where it goes. It could very well be the solution is to gain axcess to the inside of the TC, drill the hole through the wall, and replace the screws with a nut and bolt.
If the mounting bracket wraps around from the front of the TC, under the overhang, and it is the underside bolts, they do not take much of the TC load. Gotta have photos of what you have or we all are just throwing wild guesses. The repair should be able to be accomplished with everyday hardware.
I have never looked for a backing plate on my 1988 Bigfoot. I do not know if they used backing plates. Actually I replaced my jacks with a Stable Lift. I did leave my factory mounting plates in place. On my Bigfoot, it would major task to get to a backing plate in the rear where the shower is. The other three not so bad.
You should be able to look at the threads on the screws to see if a wood or metal backing plate is used. While it is possible they used no backing plate, I bet they did. The fiberglass at the corners is the thickest, maybe 3/16 to 1/4-inch thick. I question it would hold a screw for the jacks.
On my Bigfoot, the mounting plate wraps under the front corners, with screws under and up the front of the plate. Hard for me to imagine them coming loose. The rears do not wrap.
When you say your screws "keep loosening up", is it all of them or only a couple? Photos might help.
I do not know from experience but I have read many times, with the tailgate down on a trip like yours it will be destroyed from gravel. You might want to start a Thread asking if it is true, and what is the fix.
Tailgates are very pricy.
I have ordered auto parts online. Typically, there is a $12 shipping fee for a $4 ite . That, I might add is USPS, and from Calif to Calif.
I am finding it cheaper to have a local store order it for me, if they do not have it in stock, and I pick it up from their store. A lot of stuff you buy from Walmart is cheaper on Walmart on line, but sent to the store for pickup.
Is the shipping a rip off, I really do not know. When I see shipping & handling, I usually see rip off.
I keep imagining handling charges when we buy groceries from the store.
It is really great to have options. I am sure you will enjoy your toy hauler.
In my opinion, it is not only necessary the RV do what you want it to, but more importantly within your comfort level.
You are welcome back to the TC Forum, anytime you choose.
... I read your post as one from a Mod.
Had I made my post as a Moderator, I would have signed it as:
My question was as I stated. Nothing more.
And since it made you angry is when I decided to close it. Life is too short to get mad at stuff like this Wayne!!! ;)
Your assumption is not true. For my part, I see/saw nothing to be "angry" about. As a moderator, I have several actions I could have taken, if I were "angry". You ask that the Thread be closed, why? Just because I did not understand and I ask a question?
As you posted, life is too short to get mad at stuff like this.
... What is the Wave3? I guess I cold Google it but I'd rather hear it from an avid user.
I do not want to hijack this thread. You can also search RV.NET.
I think you could make that up using residential PVC rain gutter parts and PVC Cement. Very easy to work with. Use plastic paint on final product.
Another material you could use is ABS sheet stock. You can form it with heat, glue it with ABS Cement, and paint it with plastic paint. You could make a wood mold, and using heat form the ABS over the mold.
Definitely an interesting TC. Very dark paneling inside. I saw one a few years back.
... I'll say it and be chastised......but we DO use a single burner on the stovetop to heat the rig just before bed and just after we get up. Maybe 10 minutes, max. Just so efficient and quiet. We just pile on the blankets and can generally stay warm down to about 25 degrees F, w/o running the fan-forced heater.
Oh no, not the burner heat. :E Well, I guess you could just cook dinner later, then using the burner would be OK. Maybe cook a roast and get oven heat. :B
There was a time I used the burner and/or oven for heat, but I now use the Wave3. I will run my Wave3 all night if needed. The programmable thermostat allows me to set the temps differently at different times. If I have the Wave3 too low, the thermostat will fire off the furnace. I think I have only had the furnace come on a couple of times.
Something to remember, if your heating the camper up from say 40 degrees the air temperature rises quickly but the wall mass that the thermostat is mounted takes longer to heat up and the thermostat responds to that cold. Once the wall warms, which can take some time, the problem goes away. Try insulating the thermostat from the wall with cork. Also when warming up the camper select a lower set point at first the move it up later to prevent overheating.
Comes from too many years solving HVAC problems.
Unless your thermostat is not adjusted properly, or it is defective, I think this post above has more to do with the issue than your thermostat.
I have placed thermometers in different places in my TC, and it is not unusual to have a constant 5 degrees difference in temps between two thermometers. Some locations move air more quickly than others, which in turn increases the response time of the thermometers.
My thermostat is not in the best location for air flow. I have learned to just deal with it, rather than relocate the thermostat. I think my thermostat is the digital "RiteTemp" I bought at Home Depot for about $30 (9 years ago?).
Simply stated, I think your issue is the location of your thermostat, not the thermostat itself.