Because your query implies that you are inexperienced with diesel filter changes, be sure to do a search on the subject of "fuel filter" here on this site.
There is valuable info regarding finding your filter(s) (are you sure there is only one?), whether (and how) to pre-fill the filter(s), and expelling air in the fuel line afterward.
Having this info in advance can reduce a newcomer's suffering -- a lot.
If you decide to take on engine and/or transmission oil changes, similar info is also available.
Good Luck and 'may the sun be always at your back'.
Small night-vision video cameras are getting so cheap that they invite additional uses.
It might be nice to have two rear cameras -- one looking downward for backing into a parking spot, and the second to look back over the toad at the traffic.
I have also considered mounting side cameras at the top front corners of the rig, looking down and back, rather than on the mirrors. This would give a somewhat bird's-eye view of the entire area beside the coach, eliminating almost the entire blind spot and giving a better idea about the position of nearby vehicles when passing.
Also, the elevated cameras would provide a better view all around the coach when parked at night.
If you have one of those remote control spotlights on your roof, you could piggy-back a camera onto it and utilize the spotlight's swivel function to direct the view in any direction (from the highest perch possible.)
Actually, you have learned a bit of good news from this scare.
That bell-housing hole is left open to allow drainage of any oil or trans fluid that escapes past the oil seals into the flywheel area.
The fact that it appears bone-dry is a good indication that those seals are not leaking...
I know this has been a disheartening beginning for your family.
Keep in mind that your RV is just a truck carrying a house around on its back. If the truck portion needs repair, you will likely be better off dealing with a truck repair place or an independent mechanic who is familiar with your year and brand of truck, rather than the RV place (which is more familiar with the 'house' portion.)
Try looking in your local CraigsList or Yelp! to find the right mechanic or truck service shop.
Also, there has been a bit of confusion over the terms "starting" and "turning over." These simple words each carry a large amount of diagnostic information and reversing their usage causes a lot of consternation in the listener.
When you turn the ignition key to 'start,' the electrical starter motor engages and begins turning the gasoline engine; this is called "cranking" or "turning over." If this works OK, it means that the battery and starter circuitry is functioning.
The main motor may "try to start" or "kick" or "fire" but still not "catch" or turn on its own without the starter. This also gives the mechanic a lot of info.
Finally, when the engine does "run," the starter is no longer needed and is released. Even if its not running properly yet, the possible causes of the problem has been greatly reduced.
Best wishes for a speedy recovery for your rig.
Old body shop trick I learned in the early 60s. Use most any glass cleaner but wipe and dry with newspaper.
BillThat WAS a great trick -- it was the kerosene used to thin the newsprint ink that cut through the greasy film and left the glass so shiney. But they stopped using that type ink (a long time ago) because it used to get all over your hands and clothes when you read the paper -- it sure smelled good though!
That large, white motorhome dashboard is an eye-killer when driving with the sun ahead of you, and you can sure feel the reflected heat. At night, it sometimes causes annoying, even hazardous, bright reflections on the inside of the windshield.
I suppose, you could paint it black, which would cure the reflections, but then the dashboard would turn into a blast furnace on sunny days. The simplest cure is a black, or very dark-colored, dashboard mat -- it absorbs both the light and the heat, without re-radiating it.
You can easily make one from a dark carpet remnant, or buy an eight-foot length of hallway carpet runner at Home Depot, then trim to fit. If you haven't done something like this before, especially if your dash is not a flat slab, make a template out of heavy wrapping paper to follow the contours, then cut out the carpet. Stick-on Velcro tape, or a few well-placed stainless-steel snaps, will keep it from sliding around.
I asked no question. I replied to the OPs question.Oops! my apologies to you, Kiwi_too. Somehow, in the tangle of quotes, re-quotes, and replies, I mistakenly did a copy-and-paste of your name, thinking I had grabbed the O.P.'s handle.
My remark was actually directed to the O.P. "homerbw": If you do have a problem that needs solving, give the details, sit back, and watch some good answers roll in!
So, OK, Kiwi_too, you asked the question and got your answer.
Now, if you had more than an academic interest in this, why don't you explain what the actual problem is that you are trying to solve and perhaps you'll get some good solutions.
So I had a look underneath the coach and it is sealed up solid. However, I did find 4 screws at the entrance to the slide compartment. I removed these and the whole tray mechanism slides out as a unit, motor included....Could you please describe exactly where those screws are for removing the entire assembly?
I have been trying to fix my slide for years, but I have never been able to find a way to get into it, nor any pictures or diagrams, either. And, yes, I even pulled the generator all the way out and crawled up behind it -- but couldn't find a way into the slide mechanism.
In fact, pictures of the area where the screws are located would really be welcome.
... By page 5, I predict I will be completely at fault, and that I will be branded a bad camper.:pWell, here we are on page 5, and you were only half right! You wiggled out of the 'bad camper' rap, but it's not looking too good for your posting skills.
... but I can't paint the Fantastic Fan covers or the Shower Skylight. I guess I could, but that ruins the skylight effect of them....Actually, there is a great benefit to painting the skylights -- it cuts the solar heating effect dramatically (as well as prolonging the life of the plastic/plexiglass/lexan).
My bathroom used to get very hot when the sun shone on the skylight. I thinned down some Kool Seal elastomeric roof coating with water and painted my skylight. Voila -- nice and cool in the bathroom now, and it still provides plenty of diffuse light filtering through the thinned paint.
Incidentally, I think this is much better than the reflective 'pillows' stuffed into the skylight from inside, which leaves the bathroom pitch dark. The paint blocks the infrared and ultraviolet rays before they pass through the plastic, rather than reflecting them back out (which gives the plastic a double-dose of radiation).
Since I seldom stared at the clouds through the skylight anyway, there has been no downside to this modification.
I also used the Kool Seal (undiluted) to paint all the other plastic on the roof (which was the very thin kind as mentioned above). The coating gave the parts a lot more thickness and they don't feel nearly so fragile now.
Our son lived in Cabin Creek Campground in a fifth-wheel while stationed at Little River Marine Corps Air Station (near Camp LeJeune), and we visited him there in our motorhome. The staff was friendly (a workkamping couple) and the place was clean, quiet, and neat. It was not a resort park by any means, but neither was it expensive. There was a pool and a playground (but it was winter when we were there.)
As you might expect near a military base, there are quite a few trailer parks in this area and some offer short-term rentals to campers. You can easily find many of them by using Google Maps. Just zoom in on the area of interest and type "camp grounds" in the search box at the top of the page.
There are also quite a number of web sites dedicated to locating campgrounds for RV-ers.
Here is something I never see anyone else mention, so I'm not sure if it is unique to my particular model:
Besides the smooth ride, the panoramic view, and the lack of engine noise, I love driving with the front windows (right beside the driver's seat) slid wide open and not hearing wind noise. I don't know why, but even on the interstate it is perfectly quiet, except for the sound of my own tires on the pavement and other vehicles passing in the opposite direction. Occasionally, the screen in the window rattles slightly, as if a light cross breeze were gently buffeting it. What a way to travel!
Unless there is something special about the ones on your rig, thay should be easy to find.
Try a Harbor Freight store. They have these.
I think that I have also seen some at Walmart. Maybe Sears or Kmart, too.
I'm not sure that dark window tint really helps very much. It certainly feels cooler when the sun shines onto you, because the tint blocks the infra-red in the sunlight from passing through the window and heating the skin on your face and arms. But, still, it just converts all the blocked IR into heat right at the glass, which causes the glass itself to become too hot to touch. So, now the air inside the coach is being heated by the very hot glass.
Back in the 'Good Old Days' in south Florida I drove a VW Microbus. Even though the roof was snow white, the infra-red coming in through the windows would turn it into a solar baking oven.
At that time, silver reflective window film was just getting popular for home windows, so I put it all over the side windows of my little bus. Instead of just blocking the IR at the glass, it actually reflected it.
It was miraculous stuff! From inside, the windows just appeared darkened, like sunglasses. But from outside, they were perfect mirrors. I could leave the bus parked in the blazing noonday sun for hours and it stayed cool as a cucumber inside -- it was truly amazing. Of course, you couldn't see out very well at night, so you had to leave the front windows at least partially open while driving in-town.
Soon, cops approaching stopped cars found themselves on the wrong side of this one-way glass, so the the mirror-reflective window film was outlawed for cars. But I can't help wondering if it would be legal for the side windows of a motorhome, as long as the front-most windows, by the driver & passenger, are left clear (or just dark-tinted.)
You would think that there would at least be a dashboard warning light or buzzer if the slide wasn't fully in, wouldn't you? Especially since there seem to be cases of the slides creeping out while the RV is cruising down the highway.