I recently installed my TST507 system right before we left for a 1,500 mile round trip excursion. It did a fine job, even warned me of one tire's excessive pressure due to the significant increase in ambient temps from when I first aired-up. I debated, but didn't have time to get metal valve stems installed as I'd seen suggested on some other sites. Well, I'd DEFINITELY recommend it...see attached pix.
My typical speed range was 57 to 61 MPH with a few incidents of 68-70 MPH for short (<30 seconds each time) due to steep descents.
I have been using Collinite's #845 Insulator Wax for over 20 years on all of my vehicles, TT's and now MH. http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/
I wax my MH twice a year and as it is a 2003 model it still looks like brand new. I use less than 1/2 a pint bottle of #845 to the entire MH.It is the easiest and best wax I have ever used. I sold two bottles on a recent trip to people that complemented on how shiny and new looking my MH was, they were impressed.
+1...since finding this several years ago, it's all I use on my vehicles. If you do get it, remember to stand-up the bottle in a pan of hot water for awhile to soften the thick "liquid" inside, and shake it well. Goes on very easy, use it sparingly, buffs-out easily.
I have used 303 Protectant and Lucas Slick Mist spray wax with fine results on the TT, they're easy but they don't last IMO.
I received our TST 507 system 2 weeks ago for our dual-axle TT, right before going on a 1500 mile excursion that we just got back from. It alerted me once when one tire hit the programmed "over 10 lbs. over maximum limit"...I had aired them up to the recommended level of 65 lbs. in lower 50's temps before leaving and wound-up driving in 85 degree temps. It also told me tire temps were in the 90's. Works for me.
BUT, and I'm planning on posting a separate thread with pictures on this after I notify the manufacturer, I have rubber valve stems and the stem-end mounted senors left little scuff marks on the outer edge of the aluminum rims, indicating they had flexed quite a bit. I'm not so concerned about the cosmetics, more so the amount of flex and wear on the stem. I'll be getting full-metal stems installed shortly.
I have good luck with white lithium grease...if you get it on your clothes it will come out with Simple Green without staining it. I do not grease my Equalizer bars, only the hitch ball/socket and cover the ball with a flexible plastic/rubber cap when not in use.
Ron, it was two years ago when I got the trailer new, just followed the instructions provided by Equalizer and watching video guides for suggestions. Driving the setup was pleasureable and confident, even the wife drives and says so, so I guess I'm assuming that it worked. I have not changed a thing since adding the airlifts, as I noted it just makes the ride on some roads MUCH more pleasureable.
Sorry, I couldn't tell you at 60 MPH whether there was any difference in rear-end height between the 25 and 60 PSI's.
As for TV axle loads at different PSI's, interesting propostion. Off-hand I can't imagine very much difference, but might be worth a try.
FWIW I'd like to contribute my just-finished "real life" experience.
TV='08 Tundra DC 4X4 w/AirLift 5000's & remote control.
TT=Keystone Outback 250RS (approx.7,200 loaded)w/Equalizer 1k/10K WDH.
I had the Airlifts installed for 2 reasons...help minimize the "harmonic porpoising" or "bucking" we encounter on some stretches of concrete-sectioned paved roads we have here in the midwest, and enable short-distance towing and improve tight parking manuvering without the WD bars installed. The WDH was correctly set-up and adjusted for the trailer prior to the airbags being installed.
Coming back from an outing yesterday, I drove 85 interstate miles Northbound against a constant 25-35 wind (gusts to 40+) from the NW to NNW, then 65 interstate miles Eastbound, same or even gustier winds. On some sections I ran 25 lbs. in the AirLifts, some up to 60 lbs. just to improve the ride. I had some pushing around of course, especially when passed by the semis going Ebnd, but my totally subjective, seat-of-the-pants evaluation is that it was very controllable, had no trouble staying in my lane, not "white-knuckled" at all, and not tired when we got home.
I don't know about some of the product recommendations that have been made here, but WHEN you inadvertantly smear some of the grease on your clothes, it would nice if it washed out without staining, right? White lithium grease is the answer in my experience.
mikenannie...ooooo, I didn't know there were different types of metal ones and didn't ask which kind it was. And yes, if I took the trailer to their shop, they'd charge more for jacking it up and removing the wheels.
bullrider (and others)...When I talked to Dan Covington at TST, he advised the flow-through sensors are 2 1/2" long, that is quite a LOT to be sticking-out of a standard rim and I wouldn't do it. No wonder your rubber stem broke.
mikenannie...coincidentally I ordered my TST507 system today as well, will have it Wednesday or Thursday. We'll be leaving (hopefully) Sunday or Monday for a 1,400 mile round trip to Arkansas and I wanted it up and running by then. Currently have rubber stems, I plan on switching to metal ones after we get back. The local Goodyear-related tire service center who I always do business with for repairs and mountings quoted me $5.00 per tire to dismount it from the rim and $5.00 for each metal stem + tax...that's if I bring the tires/rims into them. SO...less than $50 for the four tires.
roadrider...I bought a brand new 2011 Keystone Outback 250RS that regularly exhibited a hot LF wheel which turned out to be a periodically binding/defective brake drum assembly. Once it cooled a bit, it would work just fine (of course everytime I took it back to the dealer). I replaced the whole assembly (backing plate/shoe/magnets) and so far so good.
Also, unless you are going to run the AC you only need one of his generators. I would leave the second one home.
I seriously disagree here...he WILL need BOTH units with the parallel. I had the equvalent paired Yamaha ef2000is units required for my Keystone Outback's A/C.
Also, the typical "slip-covers" from the factory have "HONDA" (or Yamaha) emblazoned on them...kinda like "Here I am!"
Thanks for the reminder cdlaine...just gotta wait for it to warm-up a bit todo mine, it's 10 degrees right now. A year ago this week the highs were in the 80's (!?!?!) Gotta love this midwestern weather.
I have/had the occasional "porpoising" problem with my Tundra 4x4 DC with the TRD Off-Road package (which includes Bilsteins) and a properly dialed-in Equalizer 1k/10 WDH towing a Outback 250RS. It would occur on certain concrete-paved sections of road we travel here in the midwest. As others have noted, the freeze-thaw cycle and in some cases poor base preparation of concrete-sectioned roads can just play havoc with vehicle ride, trailer or not. Reducing/changing speed can make a difference, but what really made an improvement for us were Airlift 5000's airbags. When I hit those rockin'-road sections I pump-up the airbags and it nearly completely eliminates the repeated jouncing.
spoon059..."The payload rating accounts for a full tank of gas and 150 lbs for a driver. Thats an additional 360 lbs of available payload that you are shorting yourself."
spoon...your response confused me a bit so I did some further checking.
"The gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), or gross vehicle mass (GVM) is the maximum operating weight/mass of a vehicle as specified by the manufacturer including the vehicle's chassis, body, engine, engine fluids, fuel, accessories, driver, passengers and cargo but excluding that of any trailers."
Also from Wikipedia:
"Curb weight (US English) or kerb weight (UK English) is the total weight of a vehicle with standard equipment, all necessary operating consumables (e.g., motor oil and coolant), a full tank of fuel, while not loaded with either passengers or cargo."
The 2011 Toyota Tundra Cewmax 4x2 (for example) lists the following:
listed actual curb weight....5355
listed maximum payload...1645
So I guess from my earlier example, one could add back into the available capacity the 208 lbs. that I deducted for fuel since it's already figured into both the GVWR and the curb weight. Is that correct? Thanks.