RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'WVvan' found 15 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

So I get back from the camping weekend and call the garage that had just replaced the engine and told them about the engine codes. They said they would call me back. After a couple days and not hearing anything I just drove the van down and dropped it off. Next day I get a call from the garage owner. He hems and haws a bit then tells me that one possible reason for the codes is problems with the catalytic converters. They've tested mine and both have failed. New ones are around $800 each. Did you ever have one of those moments of absolute clarity where you can actually see into the future? I had one right then and I'm betting some of you who have been in a similar situation have had one too. I'm going to spend a lot of money on this and it's not going fix the problem with the codes. To be clear, I've no doubt the converters need replaced. The whole exhaust system had me worried for a while. Having dropped around $4500 on the new engine It just hurt to spend another big chunk of change. I really had no confidence that this would clear the codes and would have made a good bet that they had just hooked up something wrong on the engine rebuild. There's a British saying, "In for Penny, in for a Pound." I was definitely already in for a penny so might as well go for the Pound. Told him to go ahead and replace the complete exhaust system. Back up on the rack. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-7-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-0-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-1-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-2-mj.jpg Notice the bulge between the muffler and the "Y". It's a flexible fitting that the old exhaust didn't have. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-3-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-4-mj.jpg One of the old catalytic converters was so far gone it rattled. Pick up the van after it's done and pay the bill. Catalytic converter assy. $870.61 Catalytic converter $845.75 clamp $15 hanger $7.90 exhaust pipe $141.95 muffler $137.14 Tail pipe $103.95 Oxygen Sensor X 2 $167.96 Oxygen Sensor X 2 $167.12 Supplies $194.42 Labor $320 Subtotal $2971.80 Tax $178.31 Total $3,150.11 Bet you already know how the rest of this goes. Start the van and drive downtown for some carryout. Get the carryout and hop back into the van and guess what. The engine codes are back. Wasn't surprised. Disappointed but not surprised. Drop the van off the next morning. The entire conversation went like this. "Codes are back." Took them a few more days but after a couple false leads, they got it figured out. A couple vacuum lines on the engine had been hooked up wrong. One added benefit is I got the emergency brakes fixed for free. So I bring Hal home to this. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140707-01-m.jpg Say "Hello" to my new barn. You know all those tools I've been collecting as this build has progressed? Well the mill I had delivered via huge tow truck caused the garage to reach critical mass. Had to do something. Hence the barn. I had the builder do a modification to the original plans so Hal could fit inside. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140707-02-mj.jpg There's not enough room in the barn for both the van and and everything I want to put in there but I can use it to work on Hal off the street. With the barn being built, and me paying for it, at the same time as all this was going on with Hal it sometimes felt as if I was just hemorrhaging cash. That being said, van does run real nice now and I'm back to using it for trips again. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140718-318-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140718-166-mj.jpg And on the bright side, when I bought the van in 2009 it only cost me $2500 while the Penthouse I had SMB install cost $5000. So for once the van is now officially worth more than the Penthouse top.
WVvan 08/03/14 07:26am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Just came back from a night of camping at Fort Frederick and two days of biking on both WMRT and the C&O. Hey Bob, Missed me by a couple weeks. I was also just up the C&O and the WMRT. Camped at Little Orleans this time. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140718-270-mj.jpg
WVvan 08/02/14 11:09pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Hey Big Katuna, I'd definitely agree with the not elegant look but it didn't seem any worse for wear. I didn't mention in the previous post that before having Hal towed to the repair shop I'd talked with the manager about which engine to get as a replacement. It was obvious that a another engine was in order. He quoted a price for a junkyard engine but I passed on it. I wanted a rebuilt. Tried for a Jasper rebuilt but they don't carry Ford 4.2L six cylinders anymore. Guess there's not enough call for them. Manager suggested Spartan rebuild which is the Advance Auto house brand. I checked on line and found some complaints but the manager said he's not had any bad luck with them. Problem was my options where limited so went with the Spartan engine. Quoted me a price of $2600 for the engine and $760 for labor. There was a possible additional damaged core fee of $200 but I heard nothing more of that so my engine must not have been too far gone. After ordering the engine it took close to three weeks before it was delivered. Was told that none were in stock so it had to be assembled. How the engine looked when delivered. It came in a black packing case. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140522-32-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-20-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-21-mj.jpg It's probably never going to look that clean again. The gentleman to the right in the middle picture is Derrick who will be doing the majority of the work on Hal. I had to leave town for a few days just when the work got started on the van so there's not as many photos as usual. Here's the front view with most everything removed. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-13-m.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-15-m.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-16-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-17-mj.jpg Found the cause of the original oil leak. This is a piece from the side of the oil pan. Told me that a rod had shot out of the engine and broke this chunk off. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-14-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-23-mj.jpg In the photo the engine has been removed. You can see a floor jack holding up the transmission. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-25-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-28-mj.jpg This was a weird looking view without the engine in the way. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-42-mj.jpg Old engine. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-37-mj.jpg They found a safe place to store the hood, on the sofa bed. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-45-mj.jpg Rebuilt with all the pieces from the old engine transferred over. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-46-mj.jpg New engine in place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-49-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-52-mj.jpg Here's the replacement to a couple of the pieces that were too rusted to reuse. I told them to replace anything that looked iffy. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-48-mj.jpg They put it all back together in no time flat so I don't have anymore pictures of the repair but a quick story. Manager calls me at work and wants to know if in all my customization I've done something to the headlights. They can't get them to work. Turns out that the headlights that used to work both failed when reinstalled. Most likely from being knocked around. Since neither light worked they thought it was an electrical fault. The bill: Spartan Reman Engine $2600 Oil and Filter $32.95 Anitfreeze $36 Spark Plugs $28.32 Tow Bill $85.00 Water Pump $129.70 Thermostat $17.70 Exhaust Flange Bolts $16.20 Exhaust Manifold Bolts $13.38 Coolant Hose $157.48 Oil Cooler $275.95 Belt $48.50 Headlamp $54.22 Shop Supplies $20.00 Labor $760.00 Tax $256.52 Total $4,531.92 Pay the bill, start up the van, and listen to that new engine purr. Most definitely you can hear the difference. So pack up the van and go camping and biking along the C&O Canal. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140607-362-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140607-317-mj.jpg Running up and over the Allegheny Mountain Range that separates West Virginia from Maryland I got a real chance to try out the engine. Everything was just fine until I noticed the check engine light. Checked the code numbers. They were P0171 and P0174. Cleared the codes to see if they would come back. They did. continued
WVvan 07/16/14 11:19am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Letters, I get letters. Emails actually. A few people have written to ask what's happened to me and Hal. We've both been kind of busy. Here's a recap to bring this thread up to date. So back in May I climbed in Hal to go somewhere and the engine wouldn't turn over. I could hear the starter engage and move then stop. Figured it must be time for a new starter. If you've not done one of these before on the van it's dead simple. Didn't even bother taking pictures. Took the old one off and went to Advance with it. Got a new one for around $100. Put the new one on the van and went to start it up. The new starter worked like a champ. The van started right up then there was a loud BANG and massive vibration. Instantly shut the engine off and climbed out and looked under the van. Oil was gushing from under the engine like I was Jed Clampett. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-01-mj.jpg Quickly found my drain pan and slide it under the van but not before a goodly volume of oil had already escaped. One advantage of having cats is cat litter. Threw a bunch of that under the van. Managed to stop the oil before it ran out onto the street and down the hill. Well no doubt about it at this point. I'm intercoursed but good. Time for some heavy thinking. Two choices. Another van or fix Hal. Start looking around to see what's available in the used van line. In this area all I can find are new to one year old vans or older than 10 year old vans. Nothing in what I would consider the sweet spot where the price has dropped off but the van's not to well used yet. That's not to say if I didn't wait around long enough one would show up but who wants to leave a large immobile vehicle directly in front of their house for however long and also camping season is starting. Then of course there is all the work I've put into Hal. A good many of the modifications I've made can be moved over to another van but that in itself would take a lot of time. I've been working on Hal for going on five years now. A lot of that effort would have be lost with another van. So fixing Hal would seem to be the best option. Next up find a garage that would do the work. That turned out to be easier than I thought. My favorite mechanic changed locations and a new group had moved into his old location which is within easy walking distance. I talked it over with them and they had experience with Ford van engines replacements. Their usual method was to remove the body but with all the inside work I'd done they wouldn't be able to access the bolts. So they would have to take it out the front. Next to get the van to the shop. The van is kind of wedged in front of my house with the hill in front and a telephone pole behind. Here's how the tow truck driver got it out. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/tow_truck.gif Then up on the tow bar. I was pleased to see that the van's "basement" didn't interfere with the towbar. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140522-26-mj.jpg Here's something the driver did to the steering wheel to help hold it in place while towing. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140522-29-mj.jpg By the way the pile of gravel has nothing to do with the van. It's for this which is going on at the same time. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140522-02-special-m.jpg I'll come back to that. So here's what the pavement looked like after the van was dragged over. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/./140603-06-mj.jpg And here's the trail it left behind. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-07-m.jpg The trail ran for three blocks. Hal at the service center. They weren't ready to work on it yet so it sat outside. Alone and forsaken. What's worse is this is over the Memorial Day Weekend and the weather was perfect. Would have been a great time to go camping. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-08-m.jpg continued
WVvan 07/10/14 10:12am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Fridge Cabinet - Post #6 When taking measurements before ordering the drawer sliders I didn't think the frame could be moved as close to the wall as it ended up and still fit the fridge. This increases the aisle width but messes with one pair of sliders. Nothing that can't be fixed with a slight intrusion into one wall panel. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-21-mj.jpg The thickness of the wall panel was all the extra space I needed. Sealed off the opening in the back. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-22-mj.jpg Drill holes in the right side covering panel for the TV mount. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-25-mj.jpg Bolt on the TV mount. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-26-mj.jpg The TV slips onto the mount from above. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-27-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-28-mj.jpg Mount the left cover panel on the frame. I'm using extra clamps since the plywood backing had developed a slight warp. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-29-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-30-mj.jpg Using sheet metal screws to attach the cover panel to the frame. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-32-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-33-mj.jpg Here's the frame with both panels installed. You'll notice the red and black wire with the white plug hanging in the back. This will be the power to the fridge. I ran the wire when the wall panel was off. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-34-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-35-mj.jpg Mount the top cover panel. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-37-mj.jpg Remove the panels and paint the exposed parts of the plywood. Both for protection and for looks. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-41-mj.jpg Everyone's a critic. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-39-mj.jpg Painted and back together. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130710-03-mj.jpg Now here's something I'm not happy about. Couldn't find any corner molding that I liked so ended up using this 1/2" aluminum angle. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130710-04-mj.jpg I'd be happy with 1/2" white vinyl angle molding but can't find any locally which pretty much means Lowe's. If you're reading this and have a suggestion please let me know. Bolt the frame into place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130710-08-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130710-05-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130710-09-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130710-11-mj.jpg Here is one of the main reason I installed the tie-down rings. My walking stick. Before it was always in the way. Now there's a place to safely stow it without me tripping over it. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130710-12-mj.jpg Right about this time in the build I suffered the lose of one of my favorite tools. This one. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/broken_camera-mj.jpg It's a Canon Powershot. Up to now every single picture and video you've seen in this build thread, including the camping ones, had been taken with this camera. I really like this camera because over the years I beat the living spit out of it and it just kept on working. It's been dropped multiple times, beaten against rocks while hiking, tossed around then dropped some more. The display on the back has a couple cracks but still works. Remember the TV ad with the ape and the suitcase. Something like that. Well it finally met it's match in the penthouse top. I accidentally closed the top on it while working on the fridge framework. It split open like a clam and when snapped back together it stopped working. That's not so say it can't possibly be fixed. Just figured it's time to get another camera. This particular model isn't made anymore but thanks to the wonders of ebay I bought an identical Powershot that's barely used. I'll have to remember to keep the new one away from the penthouse top.
WVvan 11/14/13 10:22am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Hal has been re-purposed. Just in time for Halloween. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/zombie_1-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/zombie_2-mj.jpg Birthday gift from my brother.
WVvan 10/27/13 03:29pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

How to easily move a machine that weighs over a ton using something called machine skates. I saw this done on a youtube video. Get a couple pieces of 1/2" thick steel plate. These are 3-1/2 x 3-3/4 wide. On each plate weld on two pieces of 5/8" diameter O1 tool steel rod http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131018-01-mj.jpg Buy a 12 ton press from Harbor Freight. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131018-03-mj.jpg From McMaster-Carr buy R10 ball bearings. 5/8" ID. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131018-04-mj.jpg Use the shop press to press the ball bearings onto the ends of the tool steel rods. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131018-05-mj.jpg Lift up the back end of the mill with the shop crane. Notice the steel rods under the mill. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131018-08-mj.jpg Install the newly made machine skates under the mill. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131018-09-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131018-10-mj.jpg The machine skate I made for the front has different dimensions than the two on the back. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131018-02-mj.jpg Made three sets of skates because I read if your floor isn't perfectly flat and you use four sets, one skate will inevitably slide out when moving. This mill weighs around 2200 lbs. Using the steel rods as rollers under the mill I was able to move it by myself around an inch at a time with the help of a spud bar. Now with the machine skates I just have to push with one hand and it easily rolls right along.
WVvan 10/20/13 07:54am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

It's been quiet on this thread lately since I've been working on a side project. Added something new to my tool collection. This is a Bridgeport Mill. It's sitting in the basement garage of the person I've just bought it from. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131005-1-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131005-3-mj.jpg I have a mini-mill and have been thinking about upgrading to a larger mill. For a lot less then the price of a new mill I can get this one. The person selling it has to move so I got a great deal on it along with plenty of tooling. An older Bridgeport Mill, if cared for, works better than a newer foreign made mill. These are widely used so parts are still available. Problem is how to get it home. It was located a couple hours north of me outside of Pittsburgh. A Bridgeport Mill weighs around 2200 lbs. I've never moved anything near that heavy before. Step one. Rent a U-haul trailer that could take that kind of weight. I had previously installed a Class-III trailer hitch in the van for my bike rack. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-02-mj.jpg When I installed the looking-back camera on the van this wasn't one of the uses I imagined. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-03-mj.jpg On moving day the gentleman I was buying it from provided a lot of help and several helpers to get the mill onto the trailer. Notice the metal rods underneath the mill. This is called "The Egyptian Method" for moving heavy objects. Same principle used in the building of the pyramids. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-06-mj.jpg Used a chain-fall to provide the pulling force. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-05-mj.jpg Once the mill was in the trailer I used 2x3s to build a cross-hatch framework around the base to stop it from sliding in the trailer. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-21-mj.jpg Used tie-down straps front, back and center to stop it from tipping. Here's the mill after we've gotten it to my house. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-24-mj.jpg Now is where it gets interesting. There is just myself and a friend to offload the mill. I'd talked to a local towing company earlier in the week about craning the mill off the trailer. "No problem" I was told. They could easily pick it up. So the plan was for them to pick it up off the trailer then we'd move the trailer and then they would set it down in front of the garage. So I called and a wrecker shows up. Yes the driver can lift it up and set it down. He just can't move it with the truck. Ruh-Roh! Somehow this point was missed in my previous discussion with the towing company. Another problem was the tow truck can only reach the mill by coming at the trailer from the side. A telephone pole prevents the trailer from being pulled too close to the front of the house. The mill would have to be off-loaded, literally, in the middle of the street. Ever have one of those "What the hell did I get myself into" feelings? I sure had one at that moment. So I asked the driver if they had a bigger truck. They have the kind that are used on tractor-trailers, but it does has a thirty-foot boom. "How much?" "$175 an hour." I told him to go it. It's big. It's so big he backed it down the street since it wouldn't take the corner in the front of my house. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-37-mj.jpg The driver picks the mill off the trailer then the trailer is moved out of the way. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-33-mj.jpg He booms it over towards the garage door. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-36-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-43-mj.jpg Had the driver set the mill down on the metal rollers. Then used the shop crane I'd previously bought to move the metal lathe, the come-along that was bought to adjust the penthouse top chains and tie-down strap bought for this to pull the mill into the garage. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-48-mj.jpg Once I got it all the way into the garage, called it a day. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/131012-54-mj.jpg There were no injuries so it was a good day.
WVvan 10/19/13 10:42pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Fridge Cabinet - Post #5 Use template to transfer the shape of the forward side panel to 15/32 plywood. The end of the sofa-bed already covers the bottom half of the fridge cabinet so not going to bother with it. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130703-12-mj.jpg Cut the plywood then check the fit. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130703-14-mj.jpg Slight problem with the rearward panel. The plywood wasn't long enough. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130703-15-mj.jpg Nothing a little extension couldn't fix. Should have done a better job of wiping off the excess glue. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130703-17-mj.jpg Here's the panel with the cut-outs made for the tie downs. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130703-18-mj.jpg Test fit. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130703-16-mj.jpg Next up is to cover the panels. Another trip to Lowes for some Formica. Here's a tip if buying a sheet of Formica. First get yourself a couple lengths of string. Usually there's a roll near the front of the store for tying down loads. Then grab a sales associate. The two of you can roll up the sheet and then while one holds it the other can tie. Don't try to do this by yourself. I'm sure it can be done but it's so much easier with two. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-01-mj.jpg Lay the panel on the back of the Formica and mark out the cut lines. Be sure to leave a one inch margin. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-02-mj.jpg I've tried different methods for cutting the Formica and this is my favorite. Lay the sheet face down placing a 2x4 underneath along the cut line. Use the 2x4 to support the jig saw as you make the cut. Keep the edge of the 2x4 as close as you can to the cut line. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-03-mj.jpg Glue the sheet to the panel using contact cement. After it sets up use an trim router. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-07-mj.jpg Be prepared for the mess. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-08-mj.jpg Use a drill to create a holes where the tie-downs go. Finish up with the router. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-09-mj.jpg Here's both panels and the rectangular piece for the top of the cabinet after finishing. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-11-mj.jpg Since I'm into cutting Formica, might as well do something about the front of the fridge. The current cover is dark. Think I'll brighten it up. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-12-mj.jpg On the inside of the door, lifting up the magnetic sealing strip along the bottom exposes two screws. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-13-mj.jpg Remove the screws then slide off this plastic piece from the bottom front of the door. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-14-mj.jpg With the bottom plastic piece removed you can now slide down the front door veneer. WARNING- This black sheet is metal and has a razor sharp edge! Found out the hard way. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-15-mj.jpg Using the black sheet as a guide, cut out a Formica sheet the same size. Install the the Formica sheet on the front of the fridge. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-18-mj.jpg Reattach the bottom plastic piece. I like this look better. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-20-mj.jpg So I'm wanting to screw the bottom plastic piece back in place and I can't find my screwdriver. I knew I just had it but it's no where to be found. I'm looking everywhere and it was really starting to bug me since it was just here! I have other screwdrivers but by now had the bit in my teeth and wasn't giving up. Won't tell you how long till I figured it out. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130705-19-mj.jpg continued -
WVvan 10/08/13 10:19am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

I'll take a little break from the current project for a camping report from the weekend before last. I went biking along the West Fork Trail. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130929-107--m.jpg The trail is all that's left of a logging railroad that's now part of the Monongahela National Forest. The trail runs along side the West Fork of the Greenbrier River http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130929-084--m.jpg Along with the scenery there is plenty of wildlife. Here's a Youtube video I took of a swimming beaver. Here I am roughing it after a day on the trail. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130929-091--mj.jpg Speaking of wildlife, something I learned on this trip. A sheep going "BAAAAAAAA" right outside the van at 3:22 AM will wake you from a sound sleep. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130929-022--m.jpg Whoever came up with the idea that sheep help you sleep never met this one.
WVvan 10/07/13 03:55pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Fridge Cabinet - Post #4 If you look back at the pictures from the first postings about the Fridge Cabinet you'll notice that I'm continually moving the metal framework from the van to the garage and back again to do work or take measurements. The framework is light and easy to move. That's what I really like about constructing the cabinet this way. With the framework done, drill some holes and bolt it in place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-062-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-063-mj.jpg The front bolt extends through the floor into the area enclosed by the underfloor storage box ("The Basement") so there's no worries about water incursion from underneath. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130710-05-mj.jpg The frame top will be bolted to the metal shelf that runs along the side of the penthouse opening. I put down tape first to prevent the cloth headliner from catching in the drill bit and snagging. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-064-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-065-mj.jpg Don't have a picture but there is also a bolt through the back floor brace. With the framework bolted into place I started tugging on it to see how solid it was. It's rock solid. Got the van swaying in no time. Take the framework out again to prime and paint it. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-071-mj.jpg Don't remember if I've mention before about my system for reusing paint thinner. I'm using oil based paint and primer so the brushes must be cleaned with paint thinner. If you plan ahead you can keep reusing the paint thinner instead of throwing it away. I use three paint thinner containers. A new paint thinner can, a reuse jug and a waste can. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-070-mj.jpg After cleaning the brushes pour the used paint thinner into the waste can. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-072-mj.jpg If you let the waste can sit for a few weeks the paint and primer particles will settle out to the bottom of the can. Next time you're going to paint, carefully pour out the paint thinner into the reuse jug leaving the sludge behind. The used paint thinner will acquire a slight tint but will still be clear. If it's cloudy then it needs to sit longer. Use the paint thinner from the reuse jug to clean the brushes. The can of new thinner is to make up what's lost due to evaporation or for when paint needs to be thinned. Since I don't paint constantly this system works well for me. Been using my current waste can so long that it now has 5 lbs of paint sludge on the bottom after draining. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-067-mj.jpg Put the painted frame into place and just insert the bolts to position it. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-27-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-28-mj.jpg Slide the fridge into place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-30-mj.jpg There are four mounting holes for the fridge. Mark their position on the framework. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-32-mj.jpg Position the TV. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-34-mj.jpg Use the TV mount as a guide for marking the framework. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-33-mj.jpg Will need two cover panels for the sides of the fridge cabinet. Have to duplicate the curve of the wall panel where it meets the front cover panel. Can't find my compass so make one up from an inside divider, marker and masking tape. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-36-mj.jpg Use that to trace an outline of the wall onto some posterboard. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-35-mj.jpg Here's where the back cover panel will go. Along with meeting the curved wall also have to consider the eight tie-down points and ventilation for the fridge. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-37-mj.jpg These are the cooling fins for the fridge. After some thought decide to leave these uncovered. That should increase the fridge efficiency. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-38-mj.jpg continued -
WVvan 09/26/13 12:41pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Fridge Cabinet - Post #3 I was able to get the fridge to fit without the wall panel in the way. Put the panel back into place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-002-mj.jpg Figure out how much of the panel must be removed and mark it with tape. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-004-mj.jpg Cut it out with the jigsaw. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-006-mj.jpg Here's a side view of the piece just cut from the wall panel. I used contact cement as a adhesive for the three layers when building it. You can see that it's held together rather well. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-010-mj.jpg I then put the panel back and checked the fit with the fridge. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-014-mj.jpg Ended up cutting on it two more times until I got the fit just right with the cooling unit on the back of the fridge. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-22-mj.jpg The cutting left a large gap in the insulating properties of the wall panel so I used some Reflectix to help seal it up. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-23-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130701-25-mj.jpg The fridge arrived with the door mounted to open from the left side. I need it to open from the right. To do that remove the door. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-020-mj.jpg Swap the hinges and hardware. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-021-mj.jpg Here's the sliders for the three drawers. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-022-mj.jpg Will add flat steel bars to the metal framework that the sliders will be bolted to. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-024-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-025-mj.jpg Weld those into place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-026-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-027-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-036-mj.jpg Next I'll need to add support for the TV mount. This is the piece that's screwed to the TV http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-037-mj.jpg Next to it is the piece that will be bolted to the cabinet frame. The design of this mount allows the TV to be lifted off the cabinet and stowed away when not in use. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-038-mj.jpg Figure out where I want the TV to go. Moved it around till it looked right. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-041-mj.jpg Mark that location on the framework. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-042-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-043-mj.jpg Weld the supports in place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-044-mj.jpg Add the final detail to the framework. I want some tie-down points for things carried in the back of the van. I'll be using 1 inch wide straps. Use some wire to create a mock-up. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-046-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-045-mj.jpg Transpose the mock-up to 1/4" steel rod. Straightening out the wire gives me the length to cut the steel rod. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-047-mj.jpg Use a vise and hand tools to bend the 1/4" rod into the shape I want. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-048-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-049-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-050-mj.jpg I'll be the first to admit that these are not all identical but close enough for what I need. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-052-mj.jpg Weld them into place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-054-mj.jpg Do some clean up work on my welds. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-055-mj.jpg OK. I'm officially finished welding on the fridge cabinet's metal framework. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-056-mj.jpg Framework weight is now 25 lbs. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130627-057-mj.jpg continued -
WVvan 09/21/13 09:44pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Hey Landyacht318, My fridge must been made very different from your old one. It's been running for several weeks now and I describe the noise it makes as a "purr". Can't hear it running from outside the van. The loudest noise has been when something inside the fridge is laying on one of the shelves a certain way. That item will start to make a rattling noise. Just open the fridge and re-position it and the noise stops.
WVvan 09/20/13 06:56am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Fridge Cabinet - Post #2 Look at the gap between the wooden mock-up and the wheel "hump". http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-35-mj.jpg Compare it to this pic. I've lowered the fridge about an inch which allows the wooden mock-up to be moved all the way against the wheel "hump". This gives me the most aisle room. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-41-mj.jpg So I've decided the position of the fridge cabinet. Now work on the height of the objects within the cabinet. Next consideration is the height of the porta-potty. Do several test "sits" in the garage while varying the height of the porta-potty until I find what feels just right. After that effort I should name it "Goldipots". http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-40-mj.jpg At this point I've decided on all final measurements. Use the mock-up as a framework to hold the angle iron pieces in place so they can be welded together. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-47-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-50-mj.jpg Check fit. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-51-mj.jpg I only want a small gap between the top of the fridge cabinet and the penthouse metal reinforcement that runs along the side of the opening. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-52-mj.jpg Keep working. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-53-mj.jpg Final cabinet frame. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-54-mj.jpg Weight a little over 20 lbs. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-55-mj.jpg Do a test fit with the sofa reassembled and fridge in place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-57-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-59-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-60-mj.jpg continued -
WVvan 09/18/13 02:40pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

This thread has been kind of quiet lately. Between my new (to me) lathe: http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130806-05-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130806-09-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130806-16-mj.jpg and camping: Green Ridge State Forest, Maryland http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130915-002-mj.jpg and biking: C&O Canal National Historic Park Paw Paw Tunnel http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130915-152-mj.jpg Lock #58 http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130915-229-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130915-235-mj.jpg I've not been posting much. Still working on the van. Just not posting about it. Next up project is what I'll call the "fridge cabinet". This will be on the drivers side, next to the sofa. It will hold the Engel fridge, porta-potty, and a couple drawers. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/111211-008-mj.jpg Fridge Cabinet - Post #1 Had trouble getting accurate measurements from the section of the van where I wanted the cabinet to go since the van isn't level and the wall curves in towards both the top and the back at that point. Making a wooden mock-up was the best way to go. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-24-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-25-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-26-mj.jpg With the curved wall I want to find what is the optimum location. If the fridge is mounted at a lower level the cabinet can be moved closer to the wall which gives more room to the center aisle. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-27-mj.jpg I can gain some space by removing the wall panel while deciding. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-30-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-31-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-32-mj.jpg A quick note about the wall panels. Here is a side view of the panel just removed. This panel started out as flat when first installed but has now taken on a curve that matches the wall. I'm real happy how the "foam insulation+fiberboard+headliner material" wall panels have turned out. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-37-mj.jpg continued -
WVvan 09/18/13 01:32pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
Sort by:    Search within results:


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS