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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Backup Cameras - continued
Jump forward about a week and the new monitor I ordered has arrived. Measures 7" and cost about $35. Figure out the best place to mount it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-17-mj.jpg
Use masking tape to mark the spot.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-18-mj.jpg
This is the top side of the headliner. It's made from fiberboard but isn't too thick.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-64-mj.jpg
The monitor is light but I don't trust the headliner to support it without some help so adding this piece of fiberboard as backing. This is the same fiberboard I use for the wall panels.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-66-mj.jpg
I trimmed the excess from the bolts after tightening them down.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-68-mj.jpg
Drill a hole in the headliner for the monitor cable.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-69-mj.jpg
I'm not worried about the headliner edge cutting into the cable so this next step is just for looks. Take an appropriately sized grommet and cut off the edge of the lower lip.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-71-mj.jpg
Use a little silicone to glue the grommet into place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-72-mj.jpg
Add a switch to the headliner to that will power both the cameras and the monitor.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130606-02-mj.jpg
Using a DPDT on-off-on switch. From one on position the monitor and backup camera are powered. From the other on position the monitor and the looking back camera are powered.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-75-mj.jpg
Add a plug to the switch wiring so I can lower the headliner.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130606-04-mj.jpg
It's not obvious in these pictures but this whole process required the headliner going back up and down again several times so I could check how things fit along with wiring length.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-79-mj.jpg
The new monitor came with a wiring harness. Taped it to the roof Reflectix to keep it out of the way. The cable that comes off the back of the monitor and goes through the hole in the headliner plugs in to this.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130606-07-mj.jpg
How it looks between the headliner and the roof when I start plugging everything in. Some of this is for the overhead light which I'll cover in the next project posting.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130606-08-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130606-09-mj.jpg
One last thing is to sight in the backup camera. Get a piece of scrap plywood and mark out 8 inches in 1 inch increments.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-76-mj.jpg
Clamp it to the rear bumper
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-77-mj.jpg
The resolution in this picture isn't good enough to see but the 5 inch mark is right at the edge of the back window. So backing up, when something goes out of view I've less than 5 inches of space left.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-78-mj.jpg
One more thing. The monitor folds up when not in use.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130606-13-mj.jpg
I don't have any pictures but I've road tested the cameras and am very happy how it all turned out. The view from the looking back camera has a neat bird's eye quality to it.
OK that's the end of the backup cameras project.
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WVvan
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06/18/13 02:13pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Backup Cameras - continued
A poster asked about the cameras. Bought both of them on ebay for around $15 each. They are made in China and I have no idea how long they will last.
With the cameras now wired up they will need power. The cameras will be used only while the van is moving so I want to find a "hot on run" source. Along the "B" pillar on the drivers side I found this group of unused connectors.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130527-08-mj.jpg
The wires on this connector were of a heavier gauge so thought they might be a power source.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130527-09-mj.jpg
There are only three wires but it is a six terminal connector.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130527-10-mj.jpg
Using a voltmeter I found that the orange wire is a "hot on run" source. Figured out it's connector C331. Page 150-29 in the electrical manual.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-69-mj.jpg
It's listed as circuit# 49. It comes off the Trailer Battery Charge Relay.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-66-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130616-68-mj.jpg
Cut the orange wire from connector C331 and crimp it to a in-line fuse holder. Cover the connection with shrink tube.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-07-mj.jpg
Route the power wire along side the "B" pillar up to the ceiling in plastic conduit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-08-mj.jpg
Then along the "B" ceiling support to the center of the headliner Reflectix using silver duct tape to secure the wires. I had previously run the power wires for the two cameras to this point. The camera power wires followed the same route as the coax cable.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-09-mj.jpg
Wire the power to the cameras and this 3.5" TFT LCD (thin-film-transistor liquid-crystal display) monitor.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-11-mj.jpg
This monitor was too small for my liking so ordered a bigger one. Will use this one until it's replacement arrived. Here's the view from the looking back camera.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-12-mj.jpg
And this is the backup camera. The image in the monitor is fine. It's the picture I took that's out of focus. The backup cameras isn't showing the back of the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-13-mj.jpg
Here's the problem. The penthouse top is angled such that the camera is aimed too far back.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-14-mj.jpg
To compensate I removed the backup camera then elongated the mounting hole. This allowed the camera to be tipped forward. Used duck tape to change the camera's angle.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-17-mj.jpg
Changed the angle until I could see the back of the van within the image.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-16-mj.jpg
Measure the gap. It's 0.56 ".
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-18-mj.jpg
Need something more permanent. Had this block of UHMW (Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene) on hand. Cutting boards are made from this material. It's 0.5" thick.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-20-mj.jpg
Cut out a small square then cut it on an angle.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-21-mj.jpg
Drill a hole in the UHMW wedge and use tape to hold it in place then check the image. The wedge tips the camera forward enough so that I can see the back of the van in the image. Used sandpaper to clean up the edges of the wedge.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-23-mj.jpg
When trying to secure the camera with it's new aiming wedge found the threaded tube on the back wasn't long enough to accommodate both the wedge and the rubber piece previously used. Removed the rubber pad and to seal against water leakage smeared on silicone II instead.
continued -
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WVvan
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06/17/13 11:37am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Backup Cameras - continued
This is the backup camera. On the back is a threaded tube that the wires pass through and is used to secure the camera. I cut a piece of rubber for a backing against the penthouse top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-42-mj.jpg
Raise the top before drilling the mounting hole for the camera. Notice the end of the wire hanging below the camera. It has a small diameter connector so the wires can be passed through the mounting hole for the camera. The connector that mates with this has the rca video plug and power plug.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-43-mj.jpg
This is the looking back camera. Instead of a small connector it has a rca video plug and a power plug on the end of it's wires. Since a hole is needed to pass these wires through the top I cut off the bulky ends.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-45-mj.jpg
Then the hole doesn't have to be so large.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-44-mj.jpg
Going to use #8 machine screws to hold the camera in place. Enlarge the holes in the base for them.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-46-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-47-mj.jpg
Had some company that day.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-48-mj.jpg
Use silicone to seal up the holes. These holes only go through fiberglass and not through the internal support plywood like the holes for the solar panel bolts. Because of that I don't have to be as careful.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-49-mj.jpg
How it looks. In retrospect I should have moved the looking back camera towards the front about a inch. Wasn't going to put more holes in the top so it stays where it is.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-50-mj.jpg
Now to get the wiring out to the cameras.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-38-mj.jpg
Just like I did with the solar panel wiring, remove the screws that attach the canvas to the top. I can pass the wires through the gap but to screw the canvas back in place these wires have to be flexible enough so they can be folded back upon themselves with the canvas in the middle. Because of that I'm using a different type of coax cable for this part of the run. See if you can catch my mistake. One coax cable for each of the cameras. The red and black wires provide positive power. One wire to each camera.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-39-mj.jpg
To get the canvas into it's original position I had to slide it back in place from the outside.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-40-mj.jpg
Put the screws back that hold the canvas in place. Looks good.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-41-mj.jpg
When starting to wire up the cameras I quickly realized my mistake. I forgot a ground wire. D'Oh! For some reason there's no pictures of me opening up the canvas top again and running a new ground wire.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130527-01-mj.jpg
Use the same nylon zip tie anchors that I used with the solar panel cables to route the wiring under the penthouse top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130527-03-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130527-04-mj.jpg
Join the two coax cables that run out to the cameras to the one cable that runs to the front of the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130527-07-mj.jpg
It's not real clear in the above picture but the forgotten (red) ground wire comes off of the penthouse installation bolt that's underneath the plier's handle.
All the new wires and cables fit within the plastic conduit that was already in this corner from the original installation of the penthouse top.
continued -
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WVvan
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06/12/13 08:30pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Backup Cameras
Once I had the front trim pieces removed for the installation of the Disco Lights figured might as well start work on a few other projects that had been rattling around in my brain but never got around to. One of those is the backup cameras.
This will require the removal of the front headliner. Had previously installed a overhead storage shelf that I bought from J.C. Whitney. In the picture I've removed the shelf but the end brackets are still in place. Remove them next.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-06-mj.jpg
Remove the plastic trim pieces on both sides of the windshield. They just pop off.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-07-mj.jpg
Running along the back edge of the headliner are five of these plastic bolts with the large heads. I'm sure they have an official name but don't know what it is.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-08-mj.jpg
Slide a screwdriver between the top of the van and the headliner and carefully work the plastic bolts out.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-09-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-10-mj.jpg
After remove the bolts the only thing holding the headliner up is the rubber edging above the doors on each side. Free up one edge and lower the headliner.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-11-mj.jpg
The wire that runs to the overhead light is tacked to the headliner with some type of glue.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-12-mj.jpg
The wire with glue comes free from the headliner without too much force.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-13-mj.jpg
This is the overhead light fixture. I'd previously converted it to LEDs.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-14-mj.jpg
The fixture easily pops out of the headliner. Then unplugs from the wire.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-16-mj.jpg
The headliner is now free.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-17-mj.jpg
It wasn't that sunny of a day but the exposed metal top was surprising warm on the inside.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-18-mj.jpg
Notice the screws sticking down from the front edge of the penthouse top. Got stuck by these more than once.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-19-mj.jpg
I'd never had the headliner off before now. First thing is to insulate it. Use my trusty double-sided tape then Reflectix.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-35-mj.jpg
Watch out for those screws.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-36-mj.jpg
I want to install two cameras on the back of the van. One will be for backing up while the other will act as a secondary rear view mirror. Once the fridge is installed I'll lose half the view through the back doors. Since I'm running the wiring for the backup camera adding a second camera isn't that much extra work.
I used the 12 volt benchtop power supply from the previous posting to test that the two cameras could share a video signal cable since they wouldn't both be on at the same time. Used this coax ethernet cable I had laying around as the video cable.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-01-mj.jpg
Cut the BNC connectors from both ends and add a RCA plug to one end.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-20-mj.jpg
Unscrew the cloth trim from along the edge of the penthouse and fold it back. Run the coax cable from the front of the van through a new hole drilled in the roof along side the plywood piece that holds down the penthouse canvas. I'm using silver duct tape, not duck tape, to keep the coax in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-37-mj.jpg
Run the cable to the right (passenger side) rear corner of the penthouse top.
continued -
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WVvan
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06/11/13 07:23pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Disco Lights
After finishing up with the solar panels I wanted the next project to just be for fun so decided to add a Red-Green-Blue LED strip. It has a controller that allows different effects so I'm calling them Disco Lights. And just to clear this up early on, Yes I lived through the Disco Era and had a blast. Owned a bunch of polyester shirts with the big pointed collars that you could never quite get the sweat smell out of after spending the night dancing.
Before installing the lights I'll have to do some disassembly to the penthouse trim. This is the trim piece that covers the front edge of the roof cut.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-03-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-04-mj.jpg
Here are the two lower brackets for the penthouse roof front hold down clamps. To allow for the bolts that stick up the top trim piece has extra room underneath it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-05-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-06-mj.jpg
This is the bottom trim piece. It also has to be removed. It's held in place by a series of screws.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-11-mj.jpg
And the bolts for the lower brackets.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-14-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-22-mj.jpg
Here's the trim pieces now out of the way.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-15-mj.jpg
How it looks with the bottom trim piece removed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-17-mj.jpg
The LEDs come as a flexible strip on a roll. The small white box is the LED controller. Runs off 12 volts. It also comes with an infrared remote. These cost about $15 on ebay.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-18-mj.jpg
The plug on the controller is this standard size female barrel connector. Search through old wall-wart transformers and you should find a match. Cut off the plug.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-21-mj.jpg
This and the next several projects are all electrical and for testing purposes I needed a 12 volt benchtop power supply. Here's what I used. It's the power supply from a old computer. There are several tutorials on the internet for converting most any computer power supply into a benchtop supply like this. It's fairly easy and besides costing next to nothing these types of power supplies can crank out a lot of well regulated watts. I wondered what use negative 12 volts is. Turns out going from +12 to -12 gives 24 volts.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130606-05-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130606-06-mj.jpg
Mount the controller on what used to be the top of the roof. There is room under the top trim piece for the controller.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-19-mj.jpg
Need to run wires up to the controller from the main fuse panel. Drill a hole and add a grommet for the wiring through the roof near the front left corner of the penthouse reinforcement metal work.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-26-mj.jpg
Install the wiring to the controller and add a on/off switch to the bottom trim piece.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-28-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-31-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-29-mj.jpg
To protect the LED strip I'm using a 1/2" square "Impact-resistant Polycarbonate Square Tube" that I bought from McMaster-Carr. The strip easily slips inside the tube.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130522-05-mj.jpg
The flexible LED strip can be safely cut every so many inches at one of these marks.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130522-04-mj.jpg
I cut the LED strip so it runs the length of the metal ledge for the penthouse top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130522-06-mj.jpg
To hold the square tube in place I used these rare earth magnets secured to the tube with VHB tape.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130522-07-mj.jpg
Since the tube is laying on the metal ledge I only had to add one magnet every foot. The magnet holds the tube to the inside edge.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130522-09-mj.jpg
The magnets are strong enough to cause the square tube to snap back in place if pulled away and released.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130522-10-mj.jpg
Plug the light strip into the controller.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130522-03-mj.jpg
Give it a test.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130522-11-mj.jpg
Not the same as a lighted dance floor but still fun.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LFnpZ6VUCs&feature=youtu.be
I need to add a soundtrack to the video. Maybe a little Donna Summers.
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WVvan
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06/07/13 11:09am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Electrical Outlets
As the electrical system has progressed I thought it was time to add a 110 outlet. This is the front panel from the sofa-bed laying face down. Found what I thought was a good place to mount the electrical box. There are several types of electrical boxes but used one that was on hand.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130516-01-mj.jpg
Create the opening for the box by drill four holes from the back with a spade bit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130516-02-mj.jpg
Formica covers the front side of the board. To reduce the possibility of splintering the finish I'd stop the drilling from behind after the spade bit center emerges and flip the board over and finish the hole from the front.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130516-03-mj.jpg
Use a jig saw to complete the opening.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130516-04-mj.jpg
Check that the cover plate will hide any sins in the cutting of the opening.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130516-05-mj.jpg
To mount the box I added a couple wood pieces on each side then bent a backing metal strap such that the front of the box was flush. Then bolt the box to the strap.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-73-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130516-06-mj.jpg
For the wiring I used a heavy duty power cord. This is the type of cord that has the standard three prong female end that matches most every computer power supply. Work with computers long enough and you'll end up with a bunch of these.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130516-07-mj.jpg
Bolt the front of the sofa-bed in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130516-08-mj.jpg
Plug the new outlet into the main power strip.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130516-10-mj.jpg
It's because of this outlet that I went with using a power strip instead of hard wiring all the outlets into a junction box. Since I have occasion to disassemble the sofa-bed I'd need a way to disconnect this outlet so the power strip made more sense.
The weather has been heating up lately so I wanted to use a fan in the van. Need to install a 12 volt outlet for that. Here's one I'd used before. Notice it has a plug so it too can be disconnected.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-41-mj.jpg
Like the new 110 outlet, wire it to the inside front of the sofa-bed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-42-mj.jpg
Mount it so the outlets are horizontal.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130604-81-mj.jpg
Wire it to the fuse panel and ready to go. For a 12 volt fan I can highly recommend a Endless Breeze from Fan-Tasic. Does a great job without draining the battery.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-43-mj.jpg
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WVvan
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06/04/13 10:09pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Hey Dale. I had need of a portable computer 10 years ago but laptops were still pretty expensive so this was my solution.
Here's build pictures.
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WVvan
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06/03/13 09:30am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
You're welcome Qjane.
Battery Separator
A battery separator is used to both electrically tie together and separate the van's starting battery and house batteries. It contains a solenoid that opens and closes to join the two systems. During camping the van's electrical systems should only be fed from the house batteries so the separator opens to prevent the draining of the starting battery. When the engine is running the separator closes so the alternator can charge both sets of batteries. Now that Hal has solar panels installed the battery separator will also tie together the systems when the solar controller is outputting enough electricity.
I'd posted back in December about running a wire from the starting battery under the hood to the inside of the van. That wire ends up at the house electrical system under the sofa-bed. There it's wired to this Sure Power model 1315 Battery Separator.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-016-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-017-mj.jpg
The wire from the starting battery comes in from the right.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-018-mj.jpg
The wire on the left runs to here on the main breaker.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-019-mj.jpg
Looking at the above picture of the separator label there are connections for "Start Lamp", "Start Signal" and "Ground". The install instructions call for a 10 amp fuse in the ground connection. I used an in-line fuseholder for this connection from the separator ground connector to the grounding terminal strip on the back of my main fuse panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130514-04-mj.jpg
For the Start Lamp and Start Signal connections I'll need to run a couple of wires from here to the instrument panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-36-mj.jpg
The two wires will connected to a led indicator and a momentary push button switch.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-50-mj.jpg
The switch will provide the "Start Signal" to the separator. The separator's normal operation is to not close until either the house battery or starting battery is at 13.2 volts. In the situation where the starting battery doesn't have enough power to start the engine then pushing this switch will close the separator solenoid joining the two systems. The install instructions have one pole of the push bottom switch going to the Start Signal connector and the other pole going to a "power on start" source. I'll be doing it a little different.
Run the two wires from the separator to the underside of the instrument panel. Decide where to put the push button and led indicator. It needs to be on the left side of steering wheel since in starting operation my right hand is cranking the engine. To do this I'll have to first remove part of the instrument panel. Start with the headlight switch. Reach in under the dash and feel around on top of the light switch for a small button. Push down on the button and you can remove the knob with it's metal post.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-51-mj.jpg
Next unscrew this collar from the front of the cover piece. I've already remove the cover piece in this photo.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-52-mj.jpg
Take out the two screws at the top and the cover pops out.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-53-mj.jpg
Decide where there's room for the push button.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-54-mj.jpg
Drill holes for the push button and led indicator and install.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-57-mj.jpg
After soldering wires to the push button the back popped off the first time I pressing it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-59-mj.jpg
Rats! I've already drilled the hole. Where am I going to get a push button switch the exact same size? I know!
Wire up the led and replacement push button to a male plug.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-60-mj.jpg
The positive power for the led indicator comes from the Start Lamp wire that goes to the separator. To complete the circuit I need a ground. Add a second wire to a ground connection on the left side of the instrument panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-61-mj.jpg
For the Start Signal it needs 12 volts. Instead of "power on start" I'm going to use a "hot all time" source. There might be times when I want to tie the two electrical systems other than just during engine start. Under the dash is this white wire that powers the radio from the house batteries. Use that as my source. Instead of cutting the wire use a tap. The tap slips over the source wire. Insert the new wire into the tap then squeeze the metal tab with pliers.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-62-mj.jpg
After the tab is squeezed all the down close the plastic latch. Done.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-64-mj.jpg
Add a female plug to these wires.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-63-mj.jpg
Plug in the new push button and led indicator. Give it a test before putting the cover back in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-66-mj.jpg
Light comes on and I can hear the solenoid in the battery separator kick in.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-65-mj.jpg
Looks good.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-67-mj.jpg
Not done yet. The separator has exposed connectors. I could easily drop a wrench and create short against the house battery frame.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-68-mj.jpg
Fix this by making a protective cap from scrap acrylic pieces. The Weld-On 3 cement I use works very quick so as long as a newly made joint isn't stressed just give it a couple minutes and keep building.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-69-mj.jpg
The solenoid on the separator gets warm so I left a lot of open space for air to circulate. Add a foot so it can be screwed down.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-72-mj.jpg
That's the end of the Battery Separator post.
One more thing. The replacement red capped push button. Removed it from something I'd built several years ago.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-74-mj.jpg
It's the Reset Button for a computer built into a Stanley toolbox.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-75-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130601-76-mj.jpg
|
WVvan
|
06/02/13 08:55am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Step one. Bought the van.
As far as I know they are all built this way but haven't read yet where that's been a problem.
|
WVvan
|
05/28/13 10:19pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels continued -
Wondered about the added weight of the solar panels so before installing them I measured the force used to raise the top. Used an electric actuator, my thinking stool, old bathroom scale and a scrap wood piece.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-026-mj.jpg
With the wood scrap at the top of the actuator this contraption weights about 10 lbs.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-041-mj.jpg
Raising the top brought the scale to 106 lbs. Subtracting 10 gives 96 lbs of force.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-039-mj.jpg
After raising the top 4 inches the springs in the top start to have a greater effect and less force is needed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-043-mj.jpg
Install both the panels on the roof and do this test again. It's now around 153 lbs.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-076-mj.jpg
That makes it tough to raise. Not only that but once the top is all the way up it comes back down without much force. I can bring it down with just one finger. Not good. Have to increase the tension on the lifting springs.
WARNING: This is dangerous. Before messing with the springs you need to watch this very informative video another penthouse owner has made. He covers it in more depth.
http://vimeo.com/62530890
First thing is to get a come-along. I just picked this one up at Harbor Freight. Happened to be on sale for $14.99.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-21-mj.jpg
Being from Harbor Freight, before it could be used I had to completely unwind the tangled cable from the spool and then rewind it evenly.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-22-mj.jpg
Cut a couple supports from scrap 2x4's and use to prop up the corners of the side I'm working on. These are for safety's sake. Didn't want to bet my life on a $14.99 tool from Harbor Freight.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-23-mj.jpg
Remove the cover from the secondary spring and lift it out. With the top raised it's not in either tension or compression so lifts right out.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-30-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-29-mj.jpg
Anchor both ends of the come-along with S-hooks rated for 400 lbs.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-25-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-26-mj.jpg
Increase the tension on the lifting spring with the come-along until the chain comes free.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-27-mj.jpg
Reduce the length of the chain by one link. Hook it back on the spring and slowly release the tension by backing off the come-along until the chain is taunt. I then zip tied the now loose chain link so it wouldn't rattle.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-28-mj.jpg
Repeat on the opposite side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130526-31-mj.jpg
The top now raises and lowers like it did before I put the panels on the roof. One more thing. Don't know what the max weight rating is for the penthouse top but the way everything feels I wouldn't put another pound up there. Since I don't camp in the winter where snow loading might be an issue this shouldn't be a problem.
OK, that's the end of the solar panel project. I'm currently working on backup cameras, led lighting and the battery separator so one of these will be written up next.
|
WVvan
|
05/28/13 09:57am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels continued -
The solar cables now enter through the penthouse top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-089-mj.jpg
To complete the circuit to the solar controller use two 10 gauge wires previously installed in the side of the van. While installing the final insulated wall panels I'd run these two wires knowing that they would eventually be needed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130505-08-mj.jpg
Had to remove one wall panel and peel back a little of the insulation to find where I'd left the ends of the wires. The advantage of using the double sided tape to hold the Reflectix in place is it's easy to replace if you ever need to go exploring.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130505-11-mj.jpg
Have to run the wire through what used to be the roof of the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130505-13-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130505-12-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130505-14-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130505-15-mj.jpg
Splice together the solar cables and these wires.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-093-mj.jpg
Between one set of wires add an in-line fuse holder. The fuse is in the circuit before the wires enter the side of the van. This is in case there is a electrical short within the wall of the van. Without the fuse it would be a fire risk.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-094-mj.jpg
Protect the wires with corrugated plastic split-loom.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-095-mj.jpg
When installing the in-line fuse holder I was trying to decide where was the best position. Near the bottom? Near the top? When I had a "Well duh!" moment. Put it in the middle. Otherwise you couldn't access the fuse when the top was down.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-108-mj.jpg
How the back of the penthouse top looks with conduit now at each corner.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-096-mj.jpg
The label on the back of the solar panel recommends a 15 amp fuse but since the two panels are wired in parallel I'll use a 30 amp fuse. Notice there's no fuse in the holder.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-097-mj.jpg
Without the fuse I have an open circuit which means I can finally safely plug in the other set of parallel solar cables.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-098-mj.jpg
With the cable plugged in I won't have to reach in under the panels again so they can finally be bolted down.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-099-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-100-mj.jpg
The bolts used here are the 2" stainless steel bolts I bought from Fastenal. By adding one more washer the bottom of the bolt is even with the nut. Hopefully this will protect the canvas from the bolts.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-101-mj.jpg
Here's the wires to the solar panels and solar controller with it's cover removed. Before attaching the wires I need to figure out which is positive and negative.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-102-mj.jpg
Use the voltmeter. Tape the wires to the voltmeter probes then put the fuse in place. Meter reads (+) 27 volts. It's a 50-50 chance but I picked the right wire for positive. Mark the positive wire with yellow electrical tape.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-103-mj.jpg
Remove the fuse before proceeding. Connect the wires to the controller. I've added a shutoff switch to the controller. Wanted a way to turn off the power from the panels if needed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-105-mj.jpg
Put the cover back on the controller. Put the fuse back in place. Turned the switch. Nothing happened. Oh No!
Wait, Everything's OK. It takes several seconds before the solar controller boots up and the "charge status" light comes on.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-106-mj.jpg
With the solar controller working this was soon the voltage reading for the van. I'm making electricity from the sun!
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130519-01-mj.jpg
I began my "Electricity Happy Dance" which looked similar to this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IS7Og1zvdy8
continued -
|
WVvan
|
05/27/13 06:35am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels continued -
Up to now the work on the solar panels has been done with the penthouse roof down. Need to raise it to continue working on the wiring. Don't want to take a chance of the panels falling off so I'll put bolts through the bracket holes and the roof to stop the panels from shifting. Add the rubber pad for each bracket before inserting the bolt. I wonder which pad goes here?
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-068-mj.jpg
There's no nuts on the bolts yet but this should be secure enough for raising and lowering the top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-069-mj.jpg
Wasn't done yet but decide to step back and and admire my work.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-070-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-071-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-072-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-073-mj.jpg
Something I noticed during the walk around. If I place a level on the front panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-075-mj.jpg
The rear of the back panel is this far below that level.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-074-mj.jpg
I hadn't expect that much of a difference between them but luckily the rubber pads between the brackets and panels have given the mountings enough flexibility so there's no problems.
So raise the roof with the solar panels for the first time. Here's the amount of force needed to raise the roof now. Subtracting 10 lbs for the weight of the electric jack I'm using gives 153 lbs. I'll be covering this aspect in a upcoming posting with more details.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-076-mj.jpg
Here's the free ends of the parallel cables for the solar panels. While working on the wiring with the roof down I was just feeding the cables through the holes in the nylon half rod and they were sliding into the gap between the penthouse roof and the top of the van without any binding.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-077-mj.jpg
Now switch to the inside of van. This is the right rear corner (passenger side) of the penthouse top. Here is the conduit that protects the wires that run to the brake light on the outside of the top and the inside light on the ceiling near the front. These wires were run by Sportsmobile when they installed the top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130505-02-mj.jpg
To run the wire for the solar panel I'll have to do something similar so let's see how they did it. There is a finish piece that runs across the back of the van below the top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130505-03-mj.jpg
There's just a couple screws with caps that hold it in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130505-06-mj.jpg
Pulling back the cloth in the corner shows the hole that's drilled through the roof of the van in which the wires are run. That's how I'll get the solar cables from inside the penthouse top to the inside of the van
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-006-mj.jpg
So how to get run the cables from outside the penthouse top to the inside? They explained it to me when I bought the top. This is the left rear corner (drivers side) of the top. I'm going to start removing these screws until I can open up a gap in where the canvas side meets the roof.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-079-mj.jpg
Before proceeding, unclip the top most bungee cord on the outside rear of the penthouse top. Found it's easier this way.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-091-mj.jpg
Start with the roll up shade.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-080-mj.jpg
Keep removing screws till the canvas comes free. That's what I'm looking for.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-082-mj.jpg
The brake lights wires are of a smaller gauge than the solar cables so were more flexible. SMB was able to just snake them through the gap. For the cables I'm going to instead drill a hole on this white covering panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-083-mj.jpg
Then feed the cables through.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-085-mj.jpg
This is the view under the top. The cables come through the roof, make a half loop to avoid the bolt hole then fit in between the canvas and the top. Since the half rod brings the cables in at such an acute angle it's a nice tight fit against the underside of the roof as opposed to if they came in at 90 degrees. I'm trying to avoid the bolt hole enough so the cables won't interfere with the nut and washers that will go there.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-086-mj.jpg
Didn't know exactly how the wiring was going to end up being routed through the top until I got to this point so put off this next step until then. Pulled about two inches of each of the two cables back through the half rod so the slack was under the solar panel. Can' t really tell from this out of focus picture but next I put a big gob of silicone II on the wires and coated those couple inches of slack generously. Then drew those gob-smacked cables back through the half rod. Smeared the remain silicone over where the cables enter the half rod. Hopefully this will waterproof the half rod.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-087-mj.jpg
continued
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WVvan
|
05/24/13 12:40pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels continued -
A painting tip. I found that by standing the panels on end it was easier to spray under the mounting edge on the back.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-112-mj.jpg
Also a trash can makes a good painting stand. Easier to spin the panel around like on a lazy susan.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-023-mj.jpg
With the brackets painted next make a rubber pad for the angle iron end where it bolts to the penthouse top. The pad will serve to both protect the fiberglass top and hopefully seal around the bolt to prevent water penetration. I have a roll of butyl rubber bought from MacMaster-Carr. This is not the sticky and malleable kind of butyl tape I've used before but more like bike inner tube rubber.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-024-mj.jpg
Cut a custom piece for each bracket with a drilled 1/4" hole in the rubber for the 5/16" bolt. Marked both the bracket and rubber pad so they could be matched up again later. The letter I wrote on the bracket will be hidden on the underside when bolted down. I also cut more pads that will go between the brackets and the solar panels. These pads are to act as an insulator between the aluminum panels and steel brackets to prevent galvanic corrosion. The pads had an added benefit which I'll cover later.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-025-mj.jpg
Get my box of stainless steel nuts and bolts I ordered from McMaster-Carr. I ordered 1" and 1-1/2" long 5/16" bolts. Ended up also needing 2" long. Luckily I have a Fastenal in town.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-049-mj.jpg
Bolt four brackets onto the front most panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-052-mj.jpg
Mount the other two brackets on the back panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-053-mj.jpg
Put the panels on the top of the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-055-mj.jpg
Bolt the two set of panels together. The debris you can see on the roof was knocked off the trees by the rain storm earlier in the day.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-058-mj.jpg
With the panels bolted together check that the roof holes line up. I had to make some adjustments to a couple of the brackets to get it just right.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-056-mj.jpg
Use some 2x4 pieces to hold up both the panels so I get my hands underneath them to do the final tightening of the bolts holding the panels to the brackets.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-060-mj.jpg
Next start working on the wiring.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-062-mj.jpg
Again the wood block were helpfully in giving me room to work.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-063-mj.jpg
Here is the wires running just under the protective angle iron piece I added to the end of the one bracket.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-064-mj.jpg
The wiring is on the drivers side of the van since that's the side the solar controller is on. It's getting kind of crowded under the rear panel. I ended up adding a couple more nylon anchors to tie everything down. You can't tell from the picture but I've only plugged in one of the two parallel cables I made earlier. Without both cables plugged in then I don't have to worry about the the uncapped wires being electrically "alive". I need to know how much slack will be left when they are all plugged in so the unplugged ends are zip tied near their final position.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-067-mj.jpg
I needed extra room under the panel to do this work. The advantage of the rubber pads between the panels and brackets is to allow them enough flexibility for me to prop up this corner bracket even higher without having to raise the other brackets.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-065-mj.jpg
continued -
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WVvan
|
05/21/13 11:27am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Step one. Bought the van.
I interrupt this solar panel thread for a little video I shot last week after getting the new and improved sofa-bed wired up. I'm holding the camera while Tiger works the switch that powers the sofa-bed.
http://youtu.be/PL4qhuY19Es
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WVvan
|
05/19/13 09:58am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels continued -
Run the wires for the solar panel through the roof to check their fit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-091-mj.jpg
Looks good.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-093-mj.jpg
The roof is slightly narrower at the rear of the van. This caused the outer edge of the rear most set of brackets to almost overhang the roof. Take both of these brackets and shorten the angle iron slightly to correct it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-095-mj.jpg
The mounting holes in the roof were drilled with the brackets in their current configuration. I'll have to remove the brackets for painting and was worried that all the holes wouldn't line up again if the brackets got mixed up. To prevent that I took a file and made a small notch on the angle iron of the three brackets on the drivers side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-094-mj.jpg
Remove all the brackets. Weld a small metal square over the open end of each tube.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-101-mj.jpg
In the last posting I mentioned about where two wires cross between the panels. To protect those wires in the open space between the panels weld a piece of 1" angle iron to the bracket end closest to them.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-100-mj.jpg
All done. At this point used a grinding wheel to round the corners on all the angle iron pieces.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-102-mj.jpg
Get out my box of painting supplies.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-103-mj.jpg
Cover the brackets with the same NAPA paint and clearcoat that I use on the van.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-104-mj.jpg
If I'm going to paint the brackets, might as well paint the solar panels. One reason for painting them is I didn't like the way the black panels looked on top of the white van. The other reason is I'm betting most people will not really notice them thinking that they are nothing more than those white racks you see on work vans all the time.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-108-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-109-mj.jpg
While waiting for the different paint coats to set up it gave me free time to do some cleaning under the penthouse top. Something I'd been neglecting up till now.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-058-mj.jpg
Also clean and treat the penthouse rubber edge gasket.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-061-mj.jpg
continued -
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WVvan
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05/14/13 08:48am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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|
RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels continued -
Warning: I wrote in the last posting about drilling through the penthouse top. Don't know if this is a common problem with epoxied fiberglass but after drilling one of the holes I reached up underneath the top to pull off a stray fiber and it sliced into the tip of my finger like a razor blade. Not that bad of a wound, compared to some others on this project, but it did surprise me.
Next up was to figure out the electrical wiring. With the two panels the first question was to connect them in series or in parallel. In series the panel output voltage is doubled but in parallel the amps is doubled. According to the solar controller manual doubling the voltage would be outside it's recommended range while doubling the amps was not, so in parallel they shall be.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-062-mj.jpg
Now think how to route the wires.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-063-mj.jpg
The panels come with these MC4 connectors. If I cut these off it would void the warranty so I bought a pair of extra cables instead. Those I can cut up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-065-mj.jpg
Found this out the hard way. To disconnect the connectors on the panel slide the shield out of the way then take two small screwdrivers and squeeze them on each side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-067-mj.jpg
The connectors will pop apart.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-068-mj.jpg
There will be a bunch of cable slack underneath the panel that needs to be organized so it doesn't hang down. I'll be using nylon anchors and zip ties to keep the wires in place.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-070-mj.jpg
Didn't want to trust the foam tape that came with the anchors so scraped it off and replaced it with VHB tape.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-064-mj.jpg
Each of the two cables I bought had a male and female end. I cut and spliced them so that one wire had two male ends and a uncapped wire while the other had two female ends and one uncapped wire. These would be my two parallel cables. Used wire nuts where I joined the wires.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-072-mj.jpg
Then covered the wire nut with heat shrink.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-075-mj.jpg
This will be the wire route. Notice where the two wires cross between the panels. I'll come back to that.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-076-mj.jpg
So how to get the wires through the penthouse top? If I was to drill straight down through so that the hole is outside the canvas then the wires would extend upwards outside the edge of the solar panels. Don't much care for how that would look beside it would be more apt to leak. Have to think of something else. Time to bring out my most important tool. My thinking stool.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130512-022-mj.jpg
So I'm sitting there thinking, do a lot of that, and looking around the garage when I see this on a shelf. A nylon rod. Gives me an idea.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-078-mj.jpg
Cut off a section of the rod. Drill two holes in the rod. Each a little larger than the diameter of the electrical wire on the parallel cables.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-079-mj.jpg
Bisect the rod at a 45 degree angle.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-080-mj.jpg
Find a piece of scrap wood the same thickness as the roof. Knew that roof measurement I took earlier would come in handy. Hold the half rod tight against the plywood and use it as a drill guide.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-084-mj.jpg
Slide one of uncapped end wires through the half rod and plywood to see where it exits on the underside. The small tip of the half rod lies almost directly above where the wire exits.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-086-mj.jpg
Using that as a guide decide where is the best place to put the half rod on the roof. For this picture I have the van turned around from it's usual orientation so this is actually the drivers side.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-082-mj.jpg
Cover the bottom of the half rod with VHB tape and stick it to the penthouse roof. Use it as a guide to drill through the penthouse top. Really took my time with this since I was drilling at such a shallow angle
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-088-mj.jpg
After using both holes in the half rod as drilling guides you can see that the two holes line right up with the bolt hole underneath the roof. Really glad I got that right. Epoxy treated these holes just like I did with the bolt holes.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-090-mj.jpg
continued.
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WVvan
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05/13/13 08:21am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Thanks for the epoxy tip. I don't think in this instance it's that critical but good to know.
Solar Panels continued -
The brackets that will go between the two panels will have to be made a bit different. Instead of the panel being bolted to holes drilled through the square tube I'll weld 1" angle iron to each side of the tube. Then the mounting holes will be drilled through the angle iron. Figure out what will be the best length and placement for the angle iron.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-035-mj.jpg
Tack weld on the angle iron and check how it fits.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-037-mj.jpg
Weld up the two middle brackets.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-038-mj.jpg
At this point I realized there was simpler design for the bracket. Instead of adding a length of angle iron on each side I could have just added it to one side and mounted the second panel through the tube like I'd done with the outside brackets. Since I'd already welded on the angle iron went ahead with the original plan. One advantage of the wider bracket is that the larger gap between the panels should help with cooling. Solar panels become less efficient as they heat up so the cooler the better. Might be better this way.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-045-mj.jpg
Get all the mounting holes drilled.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-046-mj.jpg
Bolt on the four brackets to one of the panels.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-047-mj.jpg
Put the panel with brackets on the roof.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-048-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-049-mj.jpg
Bolt the other two end brackets to the second solar panel and put it on the roof.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-051-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-052-mj.jpg
Bolt the second panel to the middle bracket.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-053-mj.jpg
Using a couple bolts and the first set of holes drilled through the top to position the front panel. Didn't tighten down the panel so it could be moved a bit. Lined up the two panels so that they where in the middle of the roof.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-054-mj.jpg
Double check then check again. When I'm absolutely sure I got it right start to drill the other four mounting holes using the hole in the bracket as a drill guide. Just start the holes but don't go all the way through the top since it's down.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-055-mj.jpg
Remove the panels from the top of the van then raise the penthouse. Finish drilling the holes through the top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-057-mj.jpg
continued
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WVvan
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05/10/13 09:01am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
Solar Panels
I purchased two Kyocera KD185GX solar panels a while ago not thinking it would have taken me as long as it did to get to this stage in the build. In the interim they have just been sitting around getting dusty while the prices for solar panels have been dropping. D'Oh.
The panels are each 52-3/4" x 39". There are four mounting holes on each long side for 5/16" bolts. According to the installation instructions these are the only holes to be used for bolting down the panels. If I was to run bolts straight through those holes into the penthouse top they would penetrate into the living space. That raises the possibility of a leak inside the van. Have to think of something else.
I've read that Sportsmobile installs their solar panels by using 3M VHB tape to stick the panels to the roof. I gave that some thought but decided against it. One person has already posted about how their panels flew off the roof while traveling on the interstate when the VHB tape failed.
So I'll have to come up with some way to bolt them to the roof but outside of the canvas penthouse. This is the view with the penthouse raised. You're looking up underneath penthouse top with the canvas on the left.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-007-mj.jpg
Here's a closer view. Notice the ridge to the right of where the canvas meets the penthouse top. This marks the edge of the wood reinforcement that's embedded inside the fiberglass when the penthouse top was constructed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-006-mj.jpg
If I'm going to run any bolts through the penthouse top they will have to be aligned so that they are outside the canvas but penetrate the wood reinforcement for strength. That gives me about 1-1/2" to work with on each side of the top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-004-mj.jpg
I'll insert a warning disclaimer here. From what I've read the different Sportsmobile franchises use different types of penthouse tops. Also the tops have changed over the years. So everything I'm writing here only applies to my top. Yours might be totally different.
Measured the penthouse on top and it's about 56" across but it's edges are not straight so the width varies. With the panels mounted cross-wise that leaves about a 1-1/2" for a custom made bracket to extend beyond the edge of the solar panel. This way the panel is bolted to the bracket and the bracket is bolted through the penthouse top.
Make the brackets out of 1" square steel tube. Two of the brackets will be shared between two panels so I'll need six total. Made them 14" long which allows me to cover both mounting holes but still have extra room for moving them back and forth for the final fit.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-008-mj.jpg
The panels will be bolted through the square tube but I'll add a piece of 2" angle iron to the end for the bolt through the top. Here I'm eyeballing the angle iron along with a 5/16" bolt trying to guess what would be the best width. Settled on 1-1/2"
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-010-mj.jpg
The six brackets with the angle iron welded to the ends. You can't see it in this picture but the angle iron is positioned so that the bottom edge of the square tube will be raised above the level of the roof. This is to provide clearance for the bolt heads that will extend through the tube.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-011-mj.jpg
With the brackets made I had a better idea of the dimensions involved. Double checked my figures then did the deed. Drilled through the roof from underneath.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-014-mj.jpg
Took my time. This drill bit has a sharp point. When the point started to protrude I stopped drilling from underneath.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-016-mj.jpg
Finished drilling the hole from above. Did this as a precaution to prevent splitting on the fiberglass top.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-017-mj.jpg
No backing out now.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-018-mj.jpg
Measured the thickness of the top at the hole. Thought the info might come in handy later. It did.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-019-mj.jpg
Using the distance from the front edge of the top as a guide I drilled a corresponding hole on the opposite side of the top. Now to get the distance between them. Put a bolt thought each hole and measured.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-021-mj.jpg
Transpose that measurement to the brackets on the solar panel. It should be 55-9/16" to the outside edge of the bolts.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-023-mj.jpg
Use clamps to hold the brackets tight to the solar panels. Reach in under the lip of the panel and use a sharp screw to etch the outline of the mounting holes onto the bracket.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-026-mj.jpg
Drill two holes in the bracket. Use them to bolt the bracket to the panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-025-mj.jpg
Check the measurements again. Etch the other bracket and drill it.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-029-mj.jpg
Bolt both brackets to the solar panel and hoist it to the top of the penthouse to check my measurements.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-031-mj.jpg
Well I'll be. The holes line up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-033-mj.jpg
At this point it was getting late and it was supposed to rain the next day. So before quitting I got the remaining epoxy bought for waterproofing the greywater tank.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-022-mj.jpg
Mixed up a small batch and used that to coat the inside of the bolt holes. If water should get into the wooden core of the penthouse top it could cause problems. Hopefully this will prevent it. Did this three times for each hole I put through the top. Allowed the epoxy to fully set up between applications.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130504-059-mj.jpg
Covered the two holes with duck tape.
continued.
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WVvan
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05/05/13 10:25am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: What does your RV forum name mean?
I live in West Virgina and I own a van. While that's true I actually thought of it as a play on the term "VW Van".
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WVvan
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04/28/13 11:13am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Step one. Bought the van.
I think Hal has you under its spell!
Bill I think you might be on to something. Last thing I clearly remember was Hal saying "Look deep into my EYE".
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/download/file.php?avatar=3402_1249064857.jpeg
Electrical System continued
The parts I ordered came in. Here is the second fuse holder installed on the breaker panel.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-37-mj.jpg
This is a 50 amp circuit breaker for the output of the solar controller. Since the automotive style fuses I'm using have an upper limit of 30 amps this separate breaker was needed.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-38-mj.jpg
The breaker panel installed. Ignore the rats nest of wires on the right.Haven't attached them yet.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-48-mj.jpg
Close up of the panel. At the top a 1/0 gauge wire runs from the positive battery terminal to the shunt resistor. On the load side of the 150 amp circuit breaker is another 1/0 gauge wire that runs to the positive terminal on the inverter. This heavy duty wire gauge is what was recommended in the inverter manual. It will be by far the biggest electrical draw on the house batteries.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-47-mj.jpg
Also attached to the load side of the main breaker are wires to the two fuse holders and the output from the solar controller. The battery separator isn't yet wired up.
This is the view looking down on the back of the battery charger (top) and the inverter under it. You can see the other end of the 1/0 gauge wire (red) that runs to the main breaker. Next to it is a black 1/0 gauge wire that runs to the negative terminal on the house batteries. I've wired the battery charger output to the inverter terminals with a inline 20 amp fuse. Since the inverter and battery charger shouldn't be in service at the same time I thought it was OK for them to share terminals.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-43-mj.jpg
I don't much like how close the opposing terminals are on the back of the inverter so after taking the picture I completely covered the positive terminal with electrical tape.
Inverter powered up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-45-mj.jpg
This is the main grounding bolt. It's a copper bolt with a copper washer and you can see I removed the paint below the washer so to get a good contact with the van body. The black wire is a 4 gauge that runs to a negative terminal on the house battery.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-14-mj.jpg
Underneath the van this bolt is attached to a copper grounding strap that runs to the van frame.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-65-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120315-80-m.jpg
The red wire on the grounding bolt runs to this terminal strip on the back of the breaker panel. I trimmed a copper sheet to make common connections across one side of this terminal strip. This is my grounding terminal block.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-39-mj.jpg
The 1/0 gauge wires are very stiff. I've set up the breaker panel so that after unbolting the two 1/0 gauge wires it can be freed up.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-41-mj.jpg
So it's easier to work on.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-50-mj.jpg
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-49-mj.jpg
Here I've started sorting and hooking up the rats nest.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-53-mj.jpg
Lesson learned the hard way. Label each wire. Now just have to remember to not lose the notebook I've written them in.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-51-mj.jpg
On to the shore power. I'd previously installed an outside plug that ran to a temporary inside socket. Now for something a little more permanent.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-35-mj.jpg
GFI output.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130421-36-mj.jpg
Next up the van's main 110 AC distribution panel. You can see it at the bottom of this picture.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-04-mj.jpg
Yeah, It's a power strip. I did spend extra to get a name brand. It's a Tripp Lite with a 15 amp breaker and it comes with a $1000 equipment replacement guarantee. Still made in China though.
Here's how my AC power is set up. The AC outlets in the van are wired to plugs. They will all be plugged into this power strip. When I'm camping and away from shore power, which is most of the time, the power strip is plugged into the inverter which provides my 110 AC.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-05-mj.jpg
If I'm using shore power then I just unplug the power strip from the inverter and plug it into the GFI output that's wired to the outside. Very simple.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-06-mj.jpg
Notice that the second GFI outlet is taken up by the plug for the battery charger. This way the battery charger is only energized when the van is hooked to shore power.
As usual I had to have the supervisor sign off on my work before I could quit for the day.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-09-mj.jpg
Next up. Solar Panels.
http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130425-12-mj.jpg
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WVvan
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04/26/13 08:51am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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