RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'WVvan' found 11 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Thanks Building the third drawer for the fridge cabinet. Now that I have a drawer locking mechanism designed and tested I can finish off this cabinet. Start by getting the dimensions from the bottom space of the cabinet. Drawer sliders had already been installed in the cabinet. Cut the wood for the drawer. I used 1/2" thick plywood. Here are the pieces just standing in position. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-01-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-02-mj.jpg This is a biscuit cutter. It's how I assemble the drawer pieces. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-03-mj.jpg It cuts out half-moon slots which you insert wood biscuits into. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-04-mj.jpg Brush on glue to the biscuits and along the mating edges then clamp firmly. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-06-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-05-mj.jpg Once everything has had plenty of time to set up, do a test fit in the van. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-12-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-09-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-10-mj.jpg Perfect fit. Such a tight fit the drawer sliders on the sides are gripping without screws. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-11-mj.jpg Prime and paint the drawer. I'm not painting the front since it will get covered with Formica. Used interior trim paint. I like the look of the paint but it has one problem in that anything left laying on it will tend to stick over time. On walls this isn't a problem but quite noticeable when used for shelving and drawers. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-13-mj.jpg To get around that problem I give it a coat of clear polyurethane after it dries. This prevents the sticking. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-14-mj.jpg Find the centerline for the front of the drawer and use that to determine the handle placement. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-16-mj.jpg Drill and mill the slots for the handle then get to work on the latching mechanism. This is the third one of these I've made so continue to refine the design. Cut a section off of the metal slide. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-17-mj.jpg Make the spring adjuster out of the cut off metal piece. Drill the hole for the 3/16" rod. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-19-mj.jpg Add holes for the wood screws then trim the metal piece. It's easier to drill holes while the piece is larger since there is more to grip. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-20-mj.jpg Make a compression spring. Got this one right on the first try. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-21-mj.jpg Add Formica to the front of the drawer and then trim it. You can see Fox in the lower right corner of the photo keeping an eye on things. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-24-mj.jpg Mill out the Formica slots. Used the aluminium U channel as a guide. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-25-mj.jpg Add the handle then the latching mechanism and adjust spring compression. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-26-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-28-mj.jpg Screw the part of the drawer slider that detaches to the side of the drawer then install in the van. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-30-mj.jpg Fits and moves nice. Latch works like a champ. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-31-mj.jpg Fridge cabinet is finally finished. And it only took me two years. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150519-32-mj.jpg Think I'll mess with the fridge next.
WVvan 05/19/15 10:12pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Staying clean in camp showers

Remind me again why you folks don't use the shower in your rig... Because there is no shower in my rig.
WVvan 05/08/15 08:50am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

continued Next is the big drawer I use to hold the porta-potti. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-63-mj.jpg With the water reservoir full this drawer will have some momentum to it so I'm using a 1/4" latching rod this time. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-64-mj.jpg Going to make what I'm thinking is an improvement on the design. Instead of a extension spring I'll use a compression spring. Get to make one of those for the first time. On the metal slide make a cut out. Will end up enlarging this slightly before final assembly http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-67-mj.jpg Spot weld like before but notice that now the rod is on the inside of the metal slide. I'm flipping the slide to better fit the handle placement. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-69-mj.jpg Make another bracket for spring adjustment. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-71-mj.jpg Now to make the compression spring. Like before I'm winging the design. I set the lathe to 6 threads per inch for the compression part of the spring. It took me three tries before I was happy. One end has had the wire trimmed before I took the photo. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-49-mj.jpg To get the tight wind at each end of the spring I disengaged the drive mechanism (the half-nut). With the half-nut engaged the middle part of the spring is created. The spring is being wound on a 1/4" rod but it expands when finished. Here's how the spring fits on the metal slide. I'll explain the LED light shortly. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-80-mj.jpg With the spring on the rod, install the adjustment bracket then move it back and forth on the rod until I get what feels like the correct snap back force. Then screw the bracket in place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-81-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-82-mj.jpg Here's the handle slide all the way to the left, as seen from the front. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-84-mj.jpg Since the hole through the side of the drawer has tighter clearance than the first one I've waxed that end of the rod. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-70-mj.jpg As to the LED light. I was finishing this up yesterday and the power went out in the whole neighborhood. Well guess who happens to have a mobile power supply? Me that's who. I completed work on this using the van batteries. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-74-mj.jpg Milled out the slots in the Formica. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-78-mj.jpg Handle attached. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-79-mj.jpg Drawer installed back in the van http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-88-mj.jpg How the fridge cabinet looks now. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-90-mj.jpg Now I can build the bottom drawer. View of the neighborhood after sunset. Wouldn't know it but there's a street light on the pole directly behind the van. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-94-mj.jpg One other point about the advantage of this latching design. If the van is stationary for a while and there's no worry about the latching the drawers then just shut them with the rod extended. The drawer sticks out less than an inch if not latched. Not enough to be in the way but enough to tell you what needs latched before you get ready to roll. I do have one employment announcement. This is my new trainee. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-65-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-91-mj.jpg Her name is Fox. Displays extraordinary energy levels along with innate curiosity but has problems with remaining focused. She's got some big paws to fill.
WVvan 05/08/15 08:11am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

continued Now that the slider works it needs a spring to keep it pulled to the right so the drawer will stayed closed. Instead of buying a spring I'm going to make my own. I've no experience with this but there are plenty of videos on youtube showing how it's done. WARNING - From what I've read you can really hurt yourself including losing an eye if you aren't careful when attempting to wind your own springs. The wire I'm using is marked as music wire which is the same as spring wire. The wire comes in a coil. NEVER cut the ties on the coil. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-26-mj.jpg Just uncoil as much wire as you need then cut it free from the coil. Don't try to wind a spring with the wire coil still attached. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-27-mj.jpg There are a whole set of formula that can be used to calculate the size of wire and spring geometry needed for any particular application. I'm just going to wing it. Using wire diameter of .041". http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-28-mj.jpg This is going to be an extension spring so I want the spring coils as close together as possible. The lathe has a setting for threads per inch which in this case will be the same as wire coils per inch. So the tightest coil would be 1 inch / .041" = 24.39 coils. Round that down to 24. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-30-mj.jpg Cut off a length of music wire. Put a 90 degree bend in the end. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-31-mj.jpg Clamp a metal rod in chuck jaws of the lathe. The wire will be wound around this. Use the jaws to also hold the bent end of the wire. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-34-mj.jpg To feed the wire I'm using this groove that is in the bottom of the tool holder. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-32-mj.jpg Clamp a cutting tool on top just to hold the wire in the groove. The wire can still slide freely. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-36-mj.jpg Set the lathe on it's slowest speed and making sure of eye protection and keeping hands far away from the winding bits, let it go. So here it is. My first ever spring. Far from perfect but let's see if works. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-38-mj.jpg Trim it and bend it. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-40-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-41-mj.jpg Attach one end of the spring to the metal slide and the other end to a wood screw. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-42-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-43-mj.jpg Works like a champ. Snaps right back into position when let go. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-44-mj.jpg Now that I have a latching design that works it's OK to finally Formica the front of the drawer. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-50-mj.jpg When doing final assembly the original screws weren't long enough so used longer machine screws. Torqued them into the handle as tight as I dare then cut off the heads. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-55-mj.jpg Use two nuts against each for locking since the slide must be loose enough to move freely. Then trim off excess thread. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-61-mj.jpg OK that's first drawer done. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-56-mj.jpg continued
WVvan 05/08/15 08:10am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

When we last left my work on the fridge cabinet I had a problem. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/130710-11-mj.jpg The drawer sliders I bought were supposed to keep the drawers shut but that feature might have worked in a stationary setting but not in an RV. The drawers would open and close with the corresponding turns as I drove. Used bungee cords as a temporary measure but needed a more permanent solution. You can buy marine style latches that do the job but besides being pricey they would require me to modify the cabinet frame. That would mean removing the frame from the van and doing some welding on it. I wanted to come up with a different solution. Dreamt up several ideas for tackling the problem, some much better than others, and finally narrowed it down to the one I'll show you here. This is a close-up view of where the drawer slider attaches to the frame. The frame is made of angle iron so to the right of the slider is an edge. Looking at the piece of angle iron that runs along the top right gives you and idea of the depth of the edge or lip. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-01-mj.jpg This is the the side of the the drawer. I've drilled a hole near the front edge of the drawer. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-06-mj.jpg Through the hole in the side of the drawer will extend this 3/16" rod. It will slide behind the lip of the angle iron and hold the drawer closed. Now how to slide it back and forth? http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-07a-mj.jpg I've got the drawer standing on end and here's the view looking down at it. The front of the drawer is unfinished because I'm going to cover it with Formica and wasn't going to do that until I got the drawer latching problem fixed. The handle is new from Lowes. I picked this particular style since it's wide enough to get a good grasp of. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-03-mj.jpg You can see the two holes from the handle that was on there temporarily since I've been using the van in the interim. Mark the screw holes for the new handle. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-04-mj.jpg Drill out the two holes for the handle screws. Then mill out slots that extend from each of these two holes 3/4" to the left. This is how the 3/16" rod will be slide back and forth to unlatch the drawer. By grasping the handle and sliding it to the left before pulling the drawer open. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-05-mj.jpg So how to attach the handle to the 3/16" rod? Here is a section of metal I surplused a while back from some machine at work we were getting rid of. The metal is around 18 gauge with a 90 degree bend along one side. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-08-mj.jpg Cut off an appropriately sized piece. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-09-mj.jpg I'm using a pair of vice grips to hold the rod and metal piece together. The handle on the front of the drawer will be bolted to the metal and the metal will be attached to the rod. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-10-mj.jpg Move the handle which moves the metal which moves the rod and unlatches the drawer. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-11-mj.jpg So to attach the metal to the rod, say "Hello" to my new friend. Bought his for another project. Surprisingly affordable. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-12-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-15-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-13-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-16-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-17-mj.jpg Line up the metal slide with the slots on the front of the drawer. Clamp it in place then drill two holes in the slide for the handle screws. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-19-mj.jpg Attach the handle and give it a test slide. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-21-mj.jpg Here's the inside the drawer view. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-22-mj.jpg Mount the drawer inside the van and test it out. With the handle all the way to the right the drawer is latched. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-23-mj.jpg Slide it to the left and the drawer can be pulled open. Here's the rod and the edge of the drawer with the drawer barely open. The rod just clears the drawer hardware since I wanted to keep it as close to the vertical center of the drawer as it could. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150506-24-mj.jpg continued
WVvan 05/08/15 08:09am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Thanks everyone for your kind words. I really appreciate that. He had four of his friends show up today for the burial. I'd previously seen Tiger and them hanging out in the backyard. Always wondered if he thought they were just really big squirrels. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/150308-01-m.jpg (Click photo to enlarge)
WVvan 03/08/15 05:46pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

R.I.P. Tiger 1999 - 2015 Supervisor Extraordinaire His companionship and his skills are both irreplaceable. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/101024-12-m.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/120617-034-m.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/110108-105-j.jpg
WVvan 03/07/15 02:56pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

So I get back from the camping weekend and call the garage that had just replaced the engine and told them about the engine codes. They said they would call me back. After a couple days and not hearing anything I just drove the van down and dropped it off. Next day I get a call from the garage owner. He hems and haws a bit then tells me that one possible reason for the codes is problems with the catalytic converters. They've tested mine and both have failed. New ones are around $800 each. Did you ever have one of those moments of absolute clarity where you can actually see into the future? I had one right then and I'm betting some of you who have been in a similar situation have had one too. I'm going to spend a lot of money on this and it's not going fix the problem with the codes. To be clear, I've no doubt the converters need replaced. The whole exhaust system had me worried for a while. Having dropped around $4500 on the new engine It just hurt to spend another big chunk of change. I really had no confidence that this would clear the codes and would have made a good bet that they had just hooked up something wrong on the engine rebuild. There's a British saying, "In for Penny, in for a Pound." I was definitely already in for a penny so might as well go for the Pound. Told him to go ahead and replace the complete exhaust system. Back up on the rack. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-7-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-0-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-1-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-2-mj.jpg Notice the bulge between the muffler and the "Y". It's a flexible fitting that the old exhaust didn't have. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-3-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140618-4-mj.jpg One of the old catalytic converters was so far gone it rattled. Pick up the van after it's done and pay the bill. Catalytic converter assy. $870.61 Catalytic converter $845.75 clamp $15 hanger $7.90 exhaust pipe $141.95 muffler $137.14 Tail pipe $103.95 Oxygen Sensor X 2 $167.96 Oxygen Sensor X 2 $167.12 Supplies $194.42 Labor $320 Subtotal $2971.80 Tax $178.31 Total $3,150.11 Bet you already know how the rest of this goes. Start the van and drive downtown for some carryout. Get the carryout and hop back into the van and guess what. The engine codes are back. Wasn't surprised. Disappointed but not surprised. Drop the van off the next morning. The entire conversation went like this. "Codes are back." Took them a few more days but after a couple false leads, they got it figured out. A couple vacuum lines on the engine had been hooked up wrong. One added benefit is I got the emergency brakes fixed for free. So I bring Hal home to this. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140707-01-m.jpg Say "Hello" to my new barn. You know all those tools I've been collecting as this build has progressed? Well the mill I had delivered via huge tow truck caused the garage to reach critical mass. Had to do something. Hence the barn. I had the builder do a modification to the original plans so Hal could fit inside. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140707-02-mj.jpg There's not enough room in the barn for both the van and and everything I want to put in there but I can use it to work on Hal off the street. With the barn being built, and me paying for it, at the same time as all this was going on with Hal it sometimes felt as if I was just hemorrhaging cash. That being said, van does run real nice now and I'm back to using it for trips again. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140718-318-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140718-166-mj.jpg And on the bright side, when I bought the van in 2009 it only cost me $2500 while the Penthouse I had SMB install cost $5000. So for once the van is now officially worth more than the Penthouse top.
WVvan 08/03/14 07:26am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Just came back from a night of camping at Fort Frederick and two days of biking on both WMRT and the C&O. Hey Bob, Missed me by a couple weeks. I was also just up the C&O and the WMRT. Camped at Little Orleans this time. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140718-270-mj.jpg
WVvan 08/02/14 11:09pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Hey Big Katuna, I'd definitely agree with the not elegant look but it didn't seem any worse for wear. I didn't mention in the previous post that before having Hal towed to the repair shop I'd talked with the manager about which engine to get as a replacement. It was obvious that a another engine was in order. He quoted a price for a junkyard engine but I passed on it. I wanted a rebuilt. Tried for a Jasper rebuilt but they don't carry Ford 4.2L six cylinders anymore. Guess there's not enough call for them. Manager suggested Spartan rebuild which is the Advance Auto house brand. I checked on line and found some complaints but the manager said he's not had any bad luck with them. Problem was my options where limited so went with the Spartan engine. Quoted me a price of $2600 for the engine and $760 for labor. There was a possible additional damaged core fee of $200 but I heard nothing more of that so my engine must not have been too far gone. After ordering the engine it took close to three weeks before it was delivered. Was told that none were in stock so it had to be assembled. How the engine looked when delivered. It came in a black packing case. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140522-32-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-20-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-21-mj.jpg It's probably never going to look that clean again. The gentleman to the right in the middle picture is Derrick who will be doing the majority of the work on Hal. I had to leave town for a few days just when the work got started on the van so there's not as many photos as usual. Here's the front view with most everything removed. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-13-m.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-15-m.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-16-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-17-mj.jpg Found the cause of the original oil leak. This is a piece from the side of the oil pan. Told me that a rod had shot out of the engine and broke this chunk off. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-14-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-23-mj.jpg In the photo the engine has been removed. You can see a floor jack holding up the transmission. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-25-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-28-mj.jpg This was a weird looking view without the engine in the way. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-42-mj.jpg Old engine. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-37-mj.jpg They found a safe place to store the hood, on the sofa bed. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-45-mj.jpg Rebuilt with all the pieces from the old engine transferred over. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-46-mj.jpg New engine in place. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-49-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-52-mj.jpg Here's the replacement to a couple of the pieces that were too rusted to reuse. I told them to replace anything that looked iffy. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-48-mj.jpg They put it all back together in no time flat so I don't have anymore pictures of the repair but a quick story. Manager calls me at work and wants to know if in all my customization I've done something to the headlights. They can't get them to work. Turns out that the headlights that used to work both failed when reinstalled. Most likely from being knocked around. Since neither light worked they thought it was an electrical fault. The bill: Spartan Reman Engine $2600 Oil and Filter $32.95 Anitfreeze $36 Spark Plugs $28.32 Tow Bill $85.00 Water Pump $129.70 Thermostat $17.70 Exhaust Flange Bolts $16.20 Exhaust Manifold Bolts $13.38 Coolant Hose $157.48 Oil Cooler $275.95 Belt $48.50 Headlamp $54.22 Shop Supplies $20.00 Labor $760.00 Tax $256.52 Total $4,531.92 Pay the bill, start up the van, and listen to that new engine purr. Most definitely you can hear the difference. So pack up the van and go camping and biking along the C&O Canal. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140607-362-mj.jpg http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140607-317-mj.jpg Running up and over the Allegheny Mountain Range that separates West Virginia from Maryland I got a real chance to try out the engine. Everything was just fine until I noticed the check engine light. Checked the code numbers. They were P0171 and P0174. Cleared the codes to see if they would come back. They did. continued
WVvan 07/16/14 11:19am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Step one. Bought the van.

Letters, I get letters. Emails actually. A few people have written to ask what's happened to me and Hal. We've both been kind of busy. Here's a recap to bring this thread up to date. So back in May I climbed in Hal to go somewhere and the engine wouldn't turn over. I could hear the starter engage and move then stop. Figured it must be time for a new starter. If you've not done one of these before on the van it's dead simple. Didn't even bother taking pictures. Took the old one off and went to Advance with it. Got a new one for around $100. Put the new one on the van and went to start it up. The new starter worked like a champ. The van started right up then there was a loud BANG and massive vibration. Instantly shut the engine off and climbed out and looked under the van. Oil was gushing from under the engine like I was Jed Clampett. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-01-mj.jpg Quickly found my drain pan and slide it under the van but not before a goodly volume of oil had already escaped. One advantage of having cats is cat litter. Threw a bunch of that under the van. Managed to stop the oil before it ran out onto the street and down the hill. Well no doubt about it at this point. I'm intercoursed but good. Time for some heavy thinking. Two choices. Another van or fix Hal. Start looking around to see what's available in the used van line. In this area all I can find are new to one year old vans or older than 10 year old vans. Nothing in what I would consider the sweet spot where the price has dropped off but the van's not to well used yet. That's not to say if I didn't wait around long enough one would show up but who wants to leave a large immobile vehicle directly in front of their house for however long and also camping season is starting. Then of course there is all the work I've put into Hal. A good many of the modifications I've made can be moved over to another van but that in itself would take a lot of time. I've been working on Hal for going on five years now. A lot of that effort would have be lost with another van. So fixing Hal would seem to be the best option. Next up find a garage that would do the work. That turned out to be easier than I thought. My favorite mechanic changed locations and a new group had moved into his old location which is within easy walking distance. I talked it over with them and they had experience with Ford van engines replacements. Their usual method was to remove the body but with all the inside work I'd done they wouldn't be able to access the bolts. So they would have to take it out the front. Next to get the van to the shop. The van is kind of wedged in front of my house with the hill in front and a telephone pole behind. Here's how the tow truck driver got it out. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/tow_truck.gif Then up on the tow bar. I was pleased to see that the van's "basement" didn't interfere with the towbar. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140522-26-mj.jpg Here's something the driver did to the steering wheel to help hold it in place while towing. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140522-29-mj.jpg By the way the pile of gravel has nothing to do with the van. It's for this which is going on at the same time. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140522-02-special-m.jpg I'll come back to that. So here's what the pavement looked like after the van was dragged over. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/./140603-06-mj.jpg And here's the trail it left behind. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-07-m.jpg The trail ran for three blocks. Hal at the service center. They weren't ready to work on it yet so it sat outside. Alone and forsaken. What's worse is this is over the Memorial Day Weekend and the weather was perfect. Would have been a great time to go camping. http://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/140603-08-m.jpg continued
WVvan 07/10/14 10:12am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
Sort by:    Search within results:


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS