Mex - I vaguely remember you mentioning unreliable AC power. My experience with PD converters is that they need a good 120 volt or higher sine wave to achieve their rated output. So if you don't have that and want, say 60 amps, I'd recommend going to the 80 amp converter. Just the opposite, the wfco converters I've had will supply their rated current at 14.4 volts with marginal power. I can't be more specific other than it can be below 120 volts and/or have a crappy waveform. The wfco power section with the pd's push button would be a nice combination, somewhat analogous to the thinking that an ideal pickup would be a Ford body, Dodge engine, and GM Allison transmission.
For a kWh meter, I'm assuming you mean on the DC end. A battery monitor would of course be nice. How about this for a lower cost alternative? DC 5-40V 0-100A Volt Amp Ah Power Combo Meter Charge Discharge Battery Monitor
Another alternative would be a pd converter with fully variable voltage output. There was a post a few years ago on how to accomplish that with a 91xx series converter, substituting a homebrew circuit for the charge wizard.
Mex - Here's a post with info to force the wfco converter into boost mode: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24492263/gotomsg/24501414.cfm#24501414
A few of details of course:
1. Another forum member tried the modification on his and it didn't work. I've done it to 3 wfcos, a 9845 and two 9855s, and it works on all of them.
2. I've run across 2 similar but different control boards. The pin assignments for the micro are the same. The reset on the control board in the linked post is level triggered. On the other board I ran into it's edge triggered and the reset circuit is different. More than these 2 types of boards? I don't know.
3. I suggest using a smaller resistor than the specified 47k. On the 2nd type of control board 47k didn't pull the sense voltage down far enough, and a lower resistance doesn't seem to hurt anything.
For more info, see the first post in the thread. In the first 2 photos you'll see 2 white power resistors standing up. These are the resistors that get too hot and lead to the majority of the wfco failures. If you want to enhance reliability, get those resistors off the board up into free air space. Heat sinked would be even better.
I've found that the wattage ratings on lights is just as unreliable as on heaters. You have to measure the load or you're shootin' in the dark in terms of evaluating performance. With the eu2000i in particular you know it's close to maxed out when the output voltage dips under 120. At 500 feet and 70 degrees mine stays above 120 volts up to about 1,800 VA. At higher elevations or temperatures, the 120 volt crossover happens at a lower load.
Will that 1.5 megawatt gen fit in the same space as my Onan Microquiet???
The eu2000i's idle speed is 3,000 rpm with eco on and 4,300 rpm with eco off. Maximum engine speed is 5,000 rpm. On mine, with eco on, it hits 4,300 rpm at about 1,600 VA load. From fuzzy memory (i.e., don't count on it!), I think it begins lifting off of the eco on idle at about 400 VA. The rpm is controlled by a microprocessor, based I believe, on the DC input voltage to the inverter. If the alternator output were weak, that could explain the engine revving too high. On the other hand, if the output supports 1,600 VA for more than a few minutes, I'd conclude that the alternator is working just fine.
I'm using a couple of DC combo volt/amp meters from ebay seller elite.element . They work well, ship with a shunt, and are accurate enough for me. He has a few different varieties you can browse through. Some of his meters require a dc-dc converter, some don't. The ones I'm using need the dc-dc converters.
An honest question to those who think the op's air conditioner might harm the generator. Considering that the eu2000i has a continuous rated load of 1,600 VA, at what load do you consider that the generator will be harmed, ruined, or have its life reduced? My opinion is that running it continuously up to 1,600 VA will cause no harm.
Any engine under a strain won't last very long. Why ruin a good generator by overloading it constantly, get one large enough to do the job.Agreed, but the question is about an 11,00 btuh air conditioner. Every one is different and you don't know what the power consumption is without measuring it. I can offer as an example that my former Dometic Brisk Air 13,500 unit pulled 1,400 VA from the eu2000i, or 88% of its rated continuous load. The engine did not run at its maximum 5,000 rpm. After a few seconds of startup, it didn't even rise off of its eco off floor of 4,300 rpm. A simple interpolation, which may or may not be valid, would have the OP's air conditioner pulling 74% of the eu2000i's rated continuous load.
Plug an ordinary light bulb into the inverter output, and compare it with the bulb plugged into shore power. If it's the same brightness, your MSW inverter's output voltage is pretty close on an RMS basis.
To equal the performance of the 120 volt element in a typical 6 cu ft fridge, a 12 volt element would need to pull about 27 amps. Nobody would run that very long off the battery. The DC wiring from a tow vehicle to a trailer can't carry that much current, so the only practical application would be in a motorhome while the engine is running. Probably too limited a market segment to make it worth it for the fridge builder, and the beefy wiring to support it would run up the cost of the motorhome.
Gas vs. diesel had almost no bearing on our decision. There were 2 main factors:
1) Cab comfort. I can't stand the cramped footwells of the Ford chassis and the Chevy isn't a whole lot better. And, the Sprinter chassis is the only one where I can put the driver seat as far back as I want when the slideout is in.
2) The Sprinter rigs a a bit narrower, which I prefer for driving narrow roads.
I sat in the new Dodge (Fiat) chassis. Can't put the driver seat back far enough.
As for mileage, I consistently average 16 when towing the car, 17 when not towing. This includes 6 trips over the rockies towing, 2 trips over not towing. Over the short term it varies wildly based on up/downhill and wind. I never drive over 60. Going faster has a big impact on the mileage. The biggest Sprinter fear I have is the risk of very expensive repairs.
More info for comparison. My 9160A with zero load on the output draws 10 watts from the power line. With a 1 amp load, the AC power draw goes up to 25 watts, 13.6 into the battery and 11.4 going up as heat from the converter. After pushing that 1 amp for a few hours, the converter case and heat sink are at about 90 degrees, with the compartment temp at 70 degrees (measured with an infrared "point and shoot" thermometer).
I can only offer a broad generality: My 9160A runs hotter than I would have expected it to when it doesn't have any load. Not hot enough to run the fan, but the heatsink is certainly "pretty warm". The converter has internal resistors that always carry a load. This is in a closed compartment that's about 7 cubic feet.
Sometimes, it's not about the gas but how the fuel system is designed.I almost agree with that. I think it's a combination of both. The only engines (that I own) that have big fouling problems are the 1-cylinder Honda engines. For instance, I have 2 tillers. I can let gas sit in the Briggs engine tiller for 2 years and it runs fine. Same gas in the Honda engine tiller and it's fouled in a couple of months. Same story for the eu2000i generator. When the Honda engine on the tiller is running right, it's one sweet-running engine.
I routinely hit 210 on steep grades. Right around then the clutched engine fan kicks in and starts bringing it down a little (ATF cooler is integrated into the radiator). The tranny temp usually tracks the engine coolant temp pretty closely.
Have about 15,000 miles towing a Honda Fit, in the 2,500 lb. ballpark. Overall mileage is between 15 and 16 mpg, never driving over 60. Performance-wise, plenty of pep in 1st and 2nd, pretty gutless in the higher gears. On steep grades we max out at 45 mph with the pedal on the floor. The more interesting exercise is keeping the speed down on the steep downgrades. Engine braking is poor, and I run in 3rd gear on the steep downhills, sometimes slow in 2nd on the extreme ones. Have been over the rockies a few times, no real problem other than slow going up and slow going down. I have a trans temp gauge and the highest I've seen is 210. Towing with the 6 cyl Spinter is fairly common.
I don't think you will find AWG 4 cables at an auto parts store because their cables are generally sized SAE, which has a somewhat smaller cross section than AWG for the same gauge. As mentioned there are multiple AWG suppliers to choose from. I've used www.genuinedealz.com a few time with good results.
If by "troubleshoot" you mean attempted repair, I suggest you first look at the two side-by-side white power resistors standing up from the board. They get too hot and their solder joints to the circuit board seem to eventually have a 100% failure rate (IMO, of course). Because of this I would not recommend an OEM replacement.