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 > Your search for posts made by 'Wayne Dohnal' found 190 matches.

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RE: WFCO Converter Longevity

Even tho its probably a joke for any Wfco to put out its rated output into anything, it is not unusual for a PD converter to put out its rated DC output into a dead.......even 50% discharged battery. Exactly the opposite of my semi-intensive testing, which says the PD converter will achieve it's max output in amps only with a good 120 volt or higher sine wave, while the wfco will achieve its max output with just about any junky power you throw at it. Specifically, the PD meets spec with good wall power or an inverter generator. With less than 120 volts or driven by an Onan Microquiet generator, it won't meet max output. The wfco 45 and 55 amp models deliver full output with any of those power sources down to somewhere below 110 volts. Until they break of course.
Wayne Dohnal 08/21/14 03:49pm Tech Issues
RE: WFCO Converter Longevity

Based on how the failure works my guess is that the longevity is based mostly on the number of hours the converter is actually powered up. It's a heat related circuit failure and they seem to last at least a few years for most people. This is different from the "doesn't go into boost mode" issue, which is caused by the design of the converter coupled with the battery size and wiring in the RV. This one affects almost all WFCO users from day one.
Wayne Dohnal 08/21/14 11:12am Tech Issues
RE: converter buzzing...a little guidance appreciated

There are a hundred million variations possible when using the word "Buzz".Exactly why I said "all sorts of noises" :) I wouldn't describe any of what I hear as buzz. More like gurgling and fizzing, not very concise either.
Wayne Dohnal 08/21/14 11:06am Tech Issues
RE: Replacing Magnetek 6332 "Q" convertor - Any suggestions ?

From what I've seen and read, WFCO converters fail mainly because two power resistors soldered to the main board get too hot, resulting in either a fracture of the solder joint or slow changing of the board substrate into a carbon-like conductor. This is independent of the "won't go into boost mode" issue, and independent of market penetration.
Wayne Dohnal 08/20/14 09:53am Tech Issues
RE: converter buzzing...a little guidance appreciated

My PD9160A was silent for a few years, now it makes all sorts of noises, some similar to what you described. I shut it off when we're sleeping. It otherwise works correctly, including supplying its full output.
Wayne Dohnal 08/19/14 11:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Shore cord gets warm/hot!

If I didn't make a math error a 25 foot 10 AWG cord will dissipate about 46 watts at 30 amps. Same heat produced as a ~50 watt incandescent lamp. Not enough heat to burn up the cord or IMO discolor the contacts, but it will raise its temperature noticeably above ambient.
Wayne Dohnal 08/19/14 02:34pm Tech Issues
RE: New Dometic Heat Pump Stinks

OPERATOR ERROR.I disagree. It's "design error".
Wayne Dohnal 08/17/14 01:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Honda 2k verses Atwood 15k heat pump. A/C

The eu2000i will more often than not start and run my RVP/Coleman 15k air conditioner, but after it builds head pressure for a few minutes the power draw blows right through the 1600 VA continuous spec of the eu2000i. So even thought it has the appearance of working ok, I don't use it. If your Atwood stays below 1600 VA you're good to go.
Wayne Dohnal 08/17/14 01:30pm Tech Issues
RE: RV electrical

No where in my posts do I say to ignore a problem. I mis-interpreted what you said and apologize for that. Possibly another way to state my point-of-view is that if the rig trips the GFCI, it gets unplugged and stays that way except as needed to isolate the problem. If a voyage gets delayed over it, so be it. I've never encountered a 30 amp GFCI protected outlet so based on this the likelihood of seeing a GFCI trip on the road is close to nonexistent. If it does ever happen I'd most likely isolate it on the spot or just stay off of shore power until returning home.
Wayne Dohnal 08/13/14 01:40pm Tech Issues
RE: RV electrical

My 2 cents is opposite of the previous post: If the GFCI that the RV is plugged into trips, there is something wrong with the RV's electrical system. I want to know about it as soon as possible, and get it fixed. I actively seek out GFCIs for powering the RV.
Wayne Dohnal 08/13/14 09:47am Tech Issues
RE: RV electrical

The link to a page from a hot tub supplier isn't exactly something I'd call credible. OK, I'll stay out of tech stuff. The linked GFCI article on the hot tub supplier's site was originally on codecheck.com. It was removed some time ago from codecheck.com but survives on other sites. The author is a prof at U of Pennsylvania, has published hundreds of tech articles, and is a principal contributor at sci.electronics.repair and repairfaq.org. His GFCI article is referenced often on the Mike Holt forum, and I have not found any rebuttal to it there. For me, I consider it credible. Breaking the "no tech stuff" on edit, there's a newer GFCI chip from Fairchild that doesn't use the 120 Hz. signal. It still uses a 2nd coil which is normally not energized. When there's a downstream ground-neutral fault, the interaction of the 2nd coil with the main sense coil results in the sense amplifier oscillating, indicating the ground-neutral fault. I have a fairly new Leviton GFCI that uses a Fairchild chip. Older Leviton GFCIs used the LM1851 chip that uses the 120 Hz. signal. I don't know when the chip change occurred or if anybody uses the LM1851 any more. Here's a "How GFCIs work" powerpoint presentation that describes the 120 Hz signal technique: McGraw Hill GFCI presentation Slides 9 & 10 cover the grounded neutral detection.
Wayne Dohnal 08/12/14 02:38pm Tech Issues
RE: RV electrical

Huh? It does not inject a signal. Have you got a credible link to something that shows this?Too bad the large percentage of "How GFCIs work" pages on the Internet leave out half of its functionally. The ground-neutral fault function has been discussed on this forum multiple times for several years now. Links? Ground Fault Current Interrupters by Sam Goldwasser LM1851 Datasheet (Pages 6 & 7 are a good place to start) If you want proof, just connect the ground and neutral pins on a GFCI or downstream outlet together, and the GFCI will trip unless it's a really ancient one. You can do this on an installed device or on the workbench. It doesn't take a zero-ohm connection to do the trip. A lower resistance value that required for a hot-neutral trip to be sure, but nowhere near a dead short. How a GFCI works: Nema organization Need to read that document more carefully. It talks about grounded neutral detection at least a dozen times. The 120 Hz signal injection is how it's generally implemented.
Wayne Dohnal 08/11/14 07:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Running Water heater on Gas vs. Electric

The answer for which is cheaper depends totally on what you're paying for each fuel type, and the efficiency of the water heater. According to a web site I use, the energy content of a gallon of propane is the same as 26.667 kWh. I'm fairly confident the efficiency of an RV water heater on electric is reasonably close to 100%. On propane I'd start with a guess of 50% because a lot of the heat exits to outside the RV. Based on all of this, if electric is 10 cents per kWh, the propane would need to cost 1.33 per gallon to break even. I'm assuming a DSI water heater so a pilot light isn't a factor. Personally, with the ignition sequence sometimes being a problem, soot buildup issues, and the heat on the outside water heater grill, I'd use electric whenever it's feasible.
Wayne Dohnal 08/11/14 05:09pm Tech Issues
RE: RV electrical

The other half of GFCI operation is that it injects a signal on the downstream neutral to detect neutral-ground leakage. It's just as likely that a trip is caused by a neutral-ground fault as a hot-ground fault. A good and complete IMO procedure is contained in this post: GFCI troubleshooting.
Wayne Dohnal 08/11/14 01:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Smarter Tools Inverter Generator at Costco?

Just offering opinion, unless the smarter tools generator uses an inverter module purchased or licensed from Honda, it's not going to work for two reasons: 1) The eu-series generators have a higher output voltage, in the 126-128 ballpark, than "everybody" else's 120 volt output. This would mean that the Honda would carry all of the load until it was close to overloading from low voltage. 2) The eu inverters use a frequency shifting algorithm to keep the parallel generators in synchronization. If the non-Honda's algorithm isn't compatible they aren't going to play well together. Even if the inverter is licensed, it might be compatible, or it might not be.
Wayne Dohnal 08/10/14 10:39pm Tech Issues
RE: 3,500 pound Dexter axle bearing pre-load?

When you are all done grab the wheel on the top and bottom and try to rock it. You should "feel" a tiny bit of play but not see any. Perfect!That's how I check it out. If there's no clink-clink when cold, it's too tight.
Wayne Dohnal 08/10/14 05:31pm Tech Issues
RE: 2 dead 120v outlets

I installed one of the SCD outlets a few weeks ago. The instructions require using the outlet back to push the wires into the insulation displacement contacts. The manufacturer sells a tool for it, but if you're careful you can use a clamp and/or pliers to do the job. It took quite a lot of force with 12 awg wire. This is with a Wirecon device, others could use a different procedure of course. Instructions are here http://www.hubbell-wirecon.com/literature/InstallationGuide.pdf.
Wayne Dohnal 08/10/14 02:25pm Tech Issues
RE: LP Generator vs Diesel Generator

I have a Sprinter with an LP generator. Whenever I boondock I carry a gasoline portable for charging the battery because the LP generator eats through the propane really fast and is pretty noisy inside the coach. If you're going to do any serious running of the air conditioner or extended battery charging, get the diesel generator or carry a portable as I do. I cannot run the 15kbtu air conditioner from the portable I use. On the other hand, for occasional short use, the LP generator wins. Our main use is to run the microwave and to top off the battery. Unlike the diesel version, the LP generator has no issues with old fuel, the fuel pump, or gummed-up fuel system components. It's much more tolerant of not getting its regular exercise, stinks less, costs less, and at least some think makes less noise. I'd expect that the diesel generator has higher repair costs. The answer lies in how you will be using the generator most of the time. Different answer for different owners.
Wayne Dohnal 08/09/14 06:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Saved by Trimetric and Solar Monitor Comparison

Whenever you have an abnormal reading you have to make the decision if it's caused by the measuring device or what it's measuring. Without an alternate for at least one of those you're left shootin' in the dark.
Wayne Dohnal 08/09/14 06:44pm Tech Issues
RE: AC on 20a service?

Ditto the above posts. Also install a voltmeter inside the RV. If it reads or dips below 105, don't run the air conditioner. Either a hardwired or plug-in voltemter is ok.
Wayne Dohnal 08/05/14 02:31pm Tech Issues
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