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 > Your search for posts made by 'Wayne Dohnal' found 205 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Can you hook two different kinds of generators together?

i see 0 reason for it not work, im pretty sure the honda will work with any generator inverter or not. I'll disagree with half of this. The Honda eu-series generators have a very small frequency range they will operate in. They vary their frequency within this range to maintain sync. Sync difference is determined by comparing the phase of the voltage and current output. I can't imagine any small non-inverter genset being able to maintain the frequency range and stability required by the Honda to originate or maintain the synchronization.
Wayne Dohnal 10/28/14 12:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Can you hook two different kinds of generators together?

Never read a post of connecting different brands. Here's one: Paralleled Honda and Kipor post There have been a lot of Honda inverter generator "facts" promoted on the forum that have proven to be false. Some offhand examples: 1) Connecting one of the AC output wires to chassis ground will burn out the generator. (i.e. "neutral-ground bond"). 2) Can't parallel different wattage eu-series generators. 3) Can't parallel more than 2 generators. 4) Can't parallel generators without additional synchronization apparatus. There are outstanding assertions that can't be proven or disproven because they need volumes of long-term data we probably won't ever have: 1) Running air conditioner from eu2000i will burn out the air conditioner. 2) Running air conditioner from the eu2000i will burn out the generator. 3) Running a generator near its rated load will shorten its life. I'm not encouraging experimentation without the full acceptance that the risk is totally with whoever does it. I do encourage being careful to separate opinion from actual experience or established fact.
Wayne Dohnal 10/28/14 11:59am Tech Issues
RE: Can you hook two different kinds of generators together?

Based on posts that I've read, the Yamaha generators have a more standard 120 volt output as compared to the Hondas that tend to run about 128 volts until heavily loaded. This means that if the generators did sync ok, the Honda would carry all of the load until it was close to overloading. Only then would the Yamaha pick up part of the load. The output voltages are incompatible, and they would not make a good combination. I've not read of anybody actually trying it. Theory is nice, but even if the risk seems small, most or all of us are too scared to take the chance of burning out an expensive generator.
Wayne Dohnal 10/27/14 11:54pm Tech Issues
RE: new air conditioner tripping gfi

Does it trip the GFI with the air conditioner circuit breaker turned off? If no, there's leakage between the hot (black wire) and chassis ground in either the wiring or the air conditioner itself. If yes, there's leakage between the neutral (white wire) and chassis ground in either the wiring or the air conditioner itself. Disconnecting both power wires at the air conditioner should tell if the problem is in the air conditioner or the wiring to the air conditioner. To be safe, just pull the shore power plug before working on the connections. If you're not experienced with 120 volt wiring, leave it to somebody who is.
Wayne Dohnal 10/27/14 08:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Honda 3kw at full load vs 7kw at 1/2 load, which is quieter?

The eu7000is replaced the eu6500is. It uses fuel injection, so I assume there won't be any propane conversions for this one. I was skeptical about parallel operation because the twin inverters are wired in parallel for 120-only operation, and in series for 120/240 operation. But there is a parallel kit. It uses 3 wires instead of 2 as in the 120 volt only generators, and unlike with the 120 volt generators, it does matter which wire connects to which jack. The parallel plug contains all 3 wires and is keyed.
Wayne Dohnal 10/25/14 08:52pm Tech Issues
RE: LED night lite solutions?

Do you do any electrical tinkering? You can take a single white led (just the bare LED), put it in series with a 1k resistor, and hook it to 12 volts. For brighter use a smaller value resistor, for dimmer use a larger resistor. Don't go below 470 ohms. Current draw will be in the 10 mA ballpark. I use this setup in the bathroom and it does the job well.
Wayne Dohnal 10/24/14 07:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Best no contract cell phone?

Tracfone does not have any roaming charges. I believe they work with all of the ATT roaming partners. Not all Tracfones ship with ATT sims, in fact I think they prefer T-mobile at this time. For our phone I went out of my way to get an ATT sim. There's info on the Howard Forums Tracfone group on how to tell which SIM goes with which phone. I don't think the SIM type affects the coverage area for voice calls, but could affect data access. I'm subject to correction on this. Fine print: Many years ago, I'd guess more than 10 years, Tracfone did have a roaming surcharge when on a non-ATT tower. The surcharge goes with the phone, so a 10+ year old phone could still carry the surcharge. No risk of this with a new phone.
Wayne Dohnal 10/24/14 04:01pm Technology Corner
RE: Best no contract cell phone?

I use the Page Plus standard plan, $10 (10.17 with fees) for 120 days. If you keep the minutes down and milk it to the max, that's about $2.56 per month. When taking an extended trip, I put it on the "55" plan with 3 gigs of data for a month of Internet access on the road. The .29/minute roaming charge comes into play when you hit a non-Verizon CDMA tower, fairly rare unless you happen to travel or live in those "wrong" places. Data coverage doesn't work at all on the non-Verizon towers. My wife uses a Tracfone on the ATT network, so when we're traveling together we have both Verizon and ATT coverage available.
Wayne Dohnal 10/23/14 09:20pm Technology Corner
RE: Dometic 2652 12V Draw

Info for the one I had previously: 0.36 amp gas valve on 0.1 amp idle auto mode 0.05 amp idle gas only mode So that quarter amp figure is probably a pretty good overall average.
Wayne Dohnal 10/21/14 02:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Voltage Monitor

I use a battery monitor. It provides a voltmeter and ammeter, which many add to their RV with basic low cost meters. What the monitor provides over and above volts and amps is tracking of the approximate number of amp hours that go into and out of the battery. When boondocking, it lets you know how much battery power you've used up. With this info you know whether it safe to continue the consumption rate of if you need to conserve. When charging from a generator it lets you know when it's time to shut the genny off. Somebody with experience can figure this out with the voltmeter/ammeter combo, it's just more work and less accurate. When plugged into shore power a voltmeter is probably all you really need.
Wayne Dohnal 10/18/14 09:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Hot water heater has lumps of clear slime!!

I had the same thing happen with my home water heater. Never did figure it out.
Wayne Dohnal 10/18/14 04:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Do I have 2 WFCO Converters?

The larger capacity WFCOs use two paralleled ATO fuses for reverse polarity protection. Looks like on this 35 amp model they were able to, and did, use a single fuse, using the same case and escutcheon from the higher power models.
Wayne Dohnal 10/18/14 12:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Wire converter to which side of battery switch?

Just a warning not sure if it applies to your converter Some actually many of the converters with a remote control aka pendant consume a small amount of power from the battery all the time they are connected to the battery. Just something to think aboutFWIW, my PD9160A with Charge Wizard draws between 3 mA and 7 mA. The rate appears to be determined by the CW's mode which in turn determines the duty cycle of the green LED. That puts the battery discharge between about 2.2 and 5 Ah per month. For comparison, my battery monitor pulls out 6.4 Ah per month, and the self discharge of a 2x GC battery using the common 5% per month rate is 11.25 Ah per month. Bottom line: The battery draw of the 9160A+CW is IMO a nit. One detail that PD did a very good job with.
Wayne Dohnal 10/17/14 06:41pm Tech Issues

Almost everything I know (including pictures) is in this thread: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24492263/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1 What I can add is: (1) The fan is not thermistor controlled. It's controlled by output current sensing. Don't know if that's direct or indirect current sensing. (2) I suggest using a lower resistance than 47k for the boost trigger. 47k pulls the sense voltage barely to the trigger borderline, and might not trigger boost on some converters. (3) The reset circuit in the thread is for the level-triggered-reset daughterboards, which I suspect are older, while the newer boards use edge-triggered reset. The edge trigger circuit is to hook a 1k resistor in series with a 1000 pF capacitor. Hook the resistor end to the converter + output, and the capacitor end to pin 4 of the PIC microcontroller. Then hook the reset momentary switch/button from the resistor-to-capacitor connection to the converter's - output. Power cycling the converter also causes a reset. I thought the fans were variable speed, but it's been a while and my memory reliability is getting worse every day. I've run across only 2 versions of the daughterboard, could be more of course.
Wayne Dohnal 10/16/14 01:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Voltage Monitor

Does anyone have an opinion or has used something like this to monitor the batteries? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-120V-10A-Voltage-Amp-Power-Ah-Hour-Charge-Discharge-Battery-Monitor-Indicator-/181142316463 OR http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-120V-500A-Volt-Amp-Combo-Meter-Battery-Charge-Discharge-Indicator-With-Shunt-/170901504188I bought one of these for a non-rv application. It needs setup information entered into it, which is ok, but I quickly found that the setup info is lost when the meter is powered down. Because of this I didn't use it, so can't comment on any of its other traits.
Wayne Dohnal 10/15/14 02:13pm Tech Issues
RE: A Hockey Puck 15/30Amp Adapter to Avoid

The safety ground lug should never carry any significant current unless there's a fault elsewhere. A "hot skin" condition only occurs if the neutral and ground are bonded in the RV in violation of the NEC or shorted together, AND the power source hot and neutral are reversed. Just the absence of the ground alone should not cause any problems, although it's certainly not advised to leave it that way in case a fault should occur. Not so, there is stray capacitance between the H, N and G conductors through out the RV. When the G is allowed to float it will attempt to find a stable level 1/2 way between H and N or some where < 55 VAC. But the extent of current behind this voltage is in the order of being < 5 milliAmps otherwise it would trip GFCIs if there was a GFCI supplying the RV. Also, quite separate from the presence of 120VAC H and a N circuit wiring, if you park an RV under HIGH VOLTAGE distribution wires (ie 6,000 VAC) and the RV IS NOT CONNECTED to Shore Power AND the RV has no conductive connection to EARTH, that RV frame will develop a hot skin. This type of hot skin is due to the RV being an isolated capacitator plate between the high voltage wire and EARTH. IMHO. What part of "significant current" didn't you understand?I thought Harvard's response was to "hot skin", not "significant current". He in fact said <5 milliamps, which I would not interpret as significant in this context.
Wayne Dohnal 10/15/14 11:05am Tech Issues
RE: Battery jumper cables and terminolgy of CCA

I thought that the electricity was carried on the outer surfaceNot applicable at all to DC, and not applicable to 60 Hz. AC until the conductor diameter approaches 3/4 inch.
Wayne Dohnal 10/13/14 01:44pm Tech Issues
RE: CRV & Element Valve Job

Just to clarify, I believe the OP means a valve adjustment. A "valve job" has the specific meaning of pulling the heads and working on or replacing the valves, valve guides, and seats.
Wayne Dohnal 10/12/14 03:54pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Will the toad get sandblasted?

IMO it depends on the vehicles and where you drive. The first time we pulled the Fit with the Sprinter the bottom 12" of the poor Fit sprouted a few hundred rock chips. Contributing factors: Car very low to the ground, short rear overhang on motorhome, drove on gravel roads. The gravel road part was somewhat bad luck as they were rebuilding the main road in Badlands N.P., and there were even a few gravel stretches on the Interstate. Since then we use a Protect-a-tow which does the job except for an occasional "leaker" rock at the outer edge of the net.
Wayne Dohnal 10/11/14 09:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Leveling a Fridge while on the Road

I cannot find any leveling specs for Dometic fridges. Are they out there anywhere? All I can find is the "level enough to be comfortable" language which of course means different things to different people. I'm interested in the ARP device. Seems like a reasonable add-on considering the cost of the fridge. I'm a bit intimidated by the temp sensor installation, having to open up the metal case around the boiler. Have to think this one through more before proceeding.
Wayne Dohnal 10/09/14 04:28pm Tech Issues
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