This is my favorite solar calculator:
You can plug in the location, tilt, and azimuth and get month-by-month production results. The production is based on "average" weather conditions for the chosen location. The site tries to steer you to a newer version which I find more difficult to use, so I stick with the old one.
For us cheapskates, there's a 0.01% DC reference available for $25.50 Voltage Reference, Model VREF-01. If that's too much, an LT1009CZ Voltage Reference Diode provides 0.2% accuracy for less than 2 bucks.
From downloaded manuals, the AC voltage accuracy spec of the HF meters is probably either 1.2%+5D or 1.2%+10D. That's either about 1.94 volts or 2.44 volts. Just for curiosity I tested a few HF meters I have lying around.
My most trusted meter varied 123.0 to 123.2 during the testing.
A low-end Sears clamp meter varied 122.6 to 122.8 (about 1/3% difference).
HF #1 - 123.1 to 123.6
HF #2 - 123.1 to 123.8
HF #3 - 121.6 to 122.0
HF #4 - 123.0 to 123.4
HF #5 - 121.4 to 122.5
So if one assumes the 'trusted' meter is correct, the HF meters are all within their spec. It would take a reading below about 121.0 to be out-of-spec. The 4 volt spread the OP saw does look bad.
Here's one source for a propane conversion for the Honda http://www.generatorsales.com/order/Honda-EU6500iSA-Tri-Fuel-Kit.asp?page=Honda_EU6500iSA_Tri_Fuel_Kit .
I run my eu2000i from propane and gasoline. It works, I do have to fiddle the propane mixture adjustment some for light vs. heavy loads.
I've been reading very confident posts here for many years that voltage droop at startup will damage the air conditioner. On the other hand, some locations in Hawaii REQUIRE that residential air conditioners use a device to limit startup current, and at least one manufacturer says this causes no damage whatsoever. I'm just a spectator here noticing the polar opposite claims. The technical data for the device shows an approximate 30% reduction of maximum inrush current, with the inrush period lengthened from about 0.2 seconds to 3.2 seconds. That's in the same ballpark that my eu2000i took to recover to the operating voltage range with a 13,500 btuh Brisk Air, with 'eco' turned off.
Soft start device web page
Here's a text version of the same procedure:
- Ignition on (don't start engine)
- Wait for vehicle mileage to show
- Hold "0" for 30+ seconds until beep
- Cycle "M" until "rESET .51" appears
- Hold "0" for 3+ seconds until "2" appears
- Release "0" and press again, should say the reset is done
Measuring zoomed-in versions of the graphs with a ruler, the voltage drop with shore power is about 9 volts, and with the Onan about double that. I don't trust that info a whole lot however from the highly compressed display, and since the Onan waveform is closer to a triangle than a sine, extrapolating the RMS value from the peaks is iffy. I could have captured all of that info precisely but I didn't. The key thing for me is that with both sources the voltage droop is fully recovered in about 120 ms. which I consider excellent. Intuitively I believe with a similar-sized inverter generator the voltage droop wouldn't be as abrupt, might not be any deeper, but would last longer as the engine spins up. Even with "eco" off, the inverter genset isn't running at full RPMs, and it has less rotating mass to absorb the shock. The RPM comment obviously doesn't apply to the fixed speed inverter generators.
Don, I don't have a big enough inverter generator to give details of the sneeze. I can offer the following startup comparisons of a very strong shore power connection vs. the Onan, shore power first:
Even though this is a "big picture" shot there are a few details that can be gleaned. Notice how the sampled waveform is so much smoother with the shore power. That's because of the "kinda sorta" sine wave output of a small AVR generator. An inverter generator picture would be closer to the shore power picture. Also, even though the RMS voltage is the same for both, the Onan's peak voltage is higher due to the imperfect waveform, and also the RMS current is 22% higher. I conclude from this that without the good sine wave expected from an inverter generator, the air conditioner could draw 22% more power. But I'm digressing. The Onan's voltage drop looks really good, and the initial surge clears just as fast as it does on shore power.
Kenny - I used manufacturer specs for my comparison, and I'm not going to take on gathering more of my own data. I have in the past run some carefully controlled consumption tests with my eu2000i, achieving 4.15 to 4.75 kWh/gallon in the 400 to 1,000 VA power range. The link you provided shows the Yamaha inverter gen at 3.89 kWh/gallon in one test, and in the same range as my results in the other tests, so I find that data quite believable. The Onan published specs for the 2.8 and 4 kW Microlites show about 4 kWh/gallon at half load and 5.6 kWh/gallon at full load. So I'll concede that if you run at half power or more for more than half the time, the conventional generator is more fuel efficient. One interesting comparison is that the 4 kW Microlite consumes 0.3 gallons/hour at no load, same as the eu2000i at full rated load! (Both from published specs).
One statement in the linked thread "I know that an Otto Cycle engine is least efficient at low mean piston speeds. They use the so-called "Eco Throttle" on the inverter gens to idle them down, and this is supposed to save fuel." shows a possible basic misunderstanding of how inverter generators work. When the eu2000i, for instance, is idling it may sound like 500 RPM but its idle speed is actually 3,000 RPM, darn close to that more-efficient 3,600 RPM, and the RPMs only go up from there into even more efficient territory. Also, the statement about "losses in the SCR's and inverter electronics" doesn't mention the counterpoint that the inverter generator's 3-phase, 14 pole, lousy waveform alternator is more efficient than the 2 pole sine wave alternator in the conventional generator.
Don, no argument about the 3,600 watt inverter gen handling the air conditioner startup. I have to resort to more technical terminology. IMO, the inverter generator "sneezes", while the Onan has an almost inaudible "slight hiccup" :-). I'm a huge fan on inverter generators to the point that that's all I'd ever want to have, but I also want to be objective. I find the Onan handling of the air conditioner startup truly impressive.
I won't sign on to some of the consensus. The result every time I've compared specs is that at full power, efficiency is about equal, and at less than full power the inverter generator wins. Surge capacity depends on the nature of the surge. If it's short, one or two AC cycles, an inverter generator can often handle it seamlessly, while it's already over with before an AVR starts to overcorrect. Longer duration surges are handled better by a conventional generator, and air conditioners present the longer duration surges. My 3.6 kW Onan handles the air conditioner startup pretty gracefully, almost as if nothing at all happened.
the Floating Neutral IS the reason that you can not get a parallel kit and CA models do not come with the ports- it dos not comply to CA electrical codes.Has to be more to it than that in light of the eu1000iKC2 supporting parallel operation.
Looking at the specs for blue connectors, the standard hole size seems to be at least .09". With AWG 12 solid wire being about .08", it ought to fit. Stranded would depend on the conductor size and twist rate.
example specs 1
example specs 2
I believe that the reason is that the Canadian ones have one leg bonded to the frame as a grounded neutral and the U.S. ones have both legs floating. The Canadian eu2000i does not have a bonded neutral. See this post http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27040043/gotomsg/27047098.cfm#27047098, then scroll down 3 posts for a picture of the Canadian eu2000i panel that says "Neutral Floating" and "Neutre Flottant".
In measuring AWG solid wire (major brands) I've found it to consistently have less cross-sectional area than the published specs. I've wondered if the the AWG specs allow for a tolerance and with modern manufacturing they can consistently hit the lower end of the allowed range? Of course if it's from China, all bets are off. On the other hand, the couple pieces of welding cable I've looked at have conformed dead-on with the tables.
Is the Canadian model just missing the pairing jacks?That's one of the big questions that I don't think has been authoritatively answered. Some opinions confidently say it's only the jacks that are missing, while others say the parallel capability has actually been removed. Based on my electronics industry experience, I bet my nickel that only the jacks are missing.
Before you go whacking the pump with anything. . .
Remove the pump.
The pump, from the factory, has push-on electrical connectors.
Sometimes the electrical connector's metal degrades over time, either from micro arcing or dissimilar metals.
Inspect the pump push-on electrical connectors - both sides, female and male terminals.
If you see any blackened areas on the connectors you will have found the problem.This is exactly the problem I had with mine, where the water pump plugged into the motorhome wiring harness. Didn't have to remove the pump to work on the connector.
Nothing about RV or DNS. I was with Direct almost from the beginning until 6 months ago when my free HD promotion expired and they wouldn't budge on the rates. Replaced a dog-slow HR22 with a 722, which is much more responsive. We're making good use of the dual output to watch 2 different shows at the same time without the 2nd receiver fee. We're getting the low new customer rates for a year which was the main reason for switching, with the hopelessly slow DVR being a close second. It's not a totally one-sided argument and I could switch back after the 2 year contract is up. The Dish DVR as I mentioned is more responsive and Dish has superior OTA support. We spend a lot of time watching OTA stations that are on translators that most Direct receivers won't even try to tune in because they're in the wrong DMA. The AM21 sensitivity is bad, so marginal stations can't be picked up even if they're in the program guide. On the other hand, Direct's remote layout IMO is way better (although their new remote is bad from what I'm hearing), and the Direct DVR didn't crash as often, maybe once or twice a week compared to every 2 days for the 722.
I would like to hear of any other programs that failed on W7. Most of what I have heard is that nearly all programs that run on XP will still run on W7. Thanks.I made a post about this about a year ago. Rather than repeating it, here's a link http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26255901/gotomsg/26327005.cfm#26327005 . I didn't remember every single issue then, and don't now either. One that I didn't list is the electronic service manual for my 1994 Audi won't run on Win 7. I made the painful conversion to the Windows Live email client which is worse than Outlook Express but nevertheless worked. Then one day it quit working demanding a mandatory update. The update didn't work and I made another painful switch to the Thunderbird email client, which in the long run was a good move. I've switched to Open Office rather than pay for a new version of Word. The old one (Word 97) ran fine on XP, not at all on Win 7. Yes it's old but did everything I needed it for.
We just finished a big thread about this issue here http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27212532.cfm. 4 pages of reading pleasure. If you're using an adapter, that is statistically the most likely cause of the problem.