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RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
For the original OP, I am not convinced that new parts will fix anything. I would get the adjustable temp parts if possible. And no they are not hard to replace. The tempature with standard parts can go up to around 160 and that is scalding by most standards.............
Thanks for that advice, I will attempt to find the adjustable kit.
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adVentureMan
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10/16/09 08:53am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
"...and waste a lot of too hot water while you stand there fiddling with the shower controls for 5 mins trying to find the right mixture between scalding and freezing. every time I take a shower, I cuss Atwood for not including a temp adjustment on this heater, its been way too hot since day 1.
...."
I have figured out the setting for the shower, I just crack the hot water side about 5 degrees, then turn the cold side on all the way. If it's still too warm I turn the hot side off a little more. My problem is washing the dishes and my hand in the sink. It seems to take more fiddling.
I don't like it quite so hot, especially with that red light coming on all the time. I am concerned the tank will explode!
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adVentureMan
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10/16/09 08:50am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
"...The kit comes with both the ECO and Thermostat and a new foam cover. They are not at all hard to replace.
Atwood does have the adjustable thermostat, Atwood p/n 93105, or a 130° fixed thermostat (original is 140°), Atwood p/n 91470.
...."
Thanks Chris, that is what I wanted to hear!
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adVentureMan
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10/16/09 08:46am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Need help with reefer before all my food goes bad! PLEASE.
.............. I have a tripod mount satellite internet setup.
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rob
Glad you added that, I was wondering how you had "the net" so far off the beaten path! I still marvel when my iPod Touch connects to the WiFi in waiting room at the doctor's office!:C
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adVentureMan
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10/15/09 10:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
......... You can get lower temp thermostat which is believe is integral with the control board. .......
I am surprised there is not a simple screw-driver adjustment to regulate the water temperature. Seems like maybe a 50 cent option if offered by Atwood. I suppose I will get one of those repair kits, but I'm trying to figure out how much work is involved in doing the work myself. I am not the most technologically astute gent around! :)
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adVentureMan
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10/15/09 09:57am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
I would certainly start by replacing the thermostat and ECO- ~$15 for both (Atwood p/n 91447). I'm not certain why the red light- unless you were running on both 120 and LP (which is fine). The light is just for the LP lockout.
It's my understanding the ECO is activated by temperature, and cuts off the electricity or gas to stop heating the unit whenever the temp passes a certain value. But you could very well be right about the LP!
I will pick up one of those kits ASAP. Have you used one of them? I am curious how much work it is to replace the existing bad parts, whatever they are.
Our prior FW had a Suburban water heater and my wife often ran both the elec and LP to heat it......but that's never been need with this one! It feels like it's just slightly less than scalding when it comes out the tap!
.............
The Atwood warranty is 2 years.
That makes sense, I bought my RV 2.5 years ago.:(
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adVentureMan
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10/15/09 09:53am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
Thanks for the quick reply................I edited my post over about 30 minutes and I think if you re-read it you will have a better understanding of what I need.
Thanks for that link, I will check that out sir.
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adVentureMan
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10/15/09 09:11am |
Tech Issues
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Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
The Electric/LP water heater in my 2007 Crossroads FW is a Atwood model GC10A-4E. I have only used it on electric since it passed the PDI.
The hot water produced by the Atwood has always been very hot......but the last several uses it is REALLY hot, and I starting noticing the red light in PICTURE 1. When I first started seeing the red light I turned off the electricity at the switch for anywhere from 10 to 60 minutes before a reapplication of power did not immediately result in another red light. Lately I just turn off the switch until we need hot water again.
PICTURE 1 - Panel inside the FW
http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/5128/2920379180061932057S425x425Q85.jpg
PICTURE 2 - Interior side of the hot water heater. I have done nothing in here but check for obvious problems (none). Ignore what appears as wet spots in the plywood - it's a photo glitch.
http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/42414/2927712520061932057S425x425Q85.jpg
PICTURE 3 - Exterior side of the hot water heater. Based on research here at Good Sam, I have cleaned the contacts on the Area 1 using sandpaper. I also wiggled the connections in Area 2. However, that made no improvement - I still get a red light and too hot water.
http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/32158/2051859390061932057S425x425Q85.jpg
I'm guessing the thermostat is shot and the ECO (stops power to the tank when it goes too high) is the only thing keeping the water from boiling. I do not get any water outside via the pressure valve thank goodness. We have been leaving the inside electric switch off until about 10 minutes before we need hot water (shower, washing dishes, etc). It only takes about 10 minutes for the water to get hot enough. Then we turn it off again.
Has anyone replaced the thermostat or whatever it takes to repair this? My RV is off warranty but I do not know how long the Atwood warranty is......does anyone? I am on a trip and do not have the Atwood paperwork to check it.
Thanks!
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adVentureMan
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10/15/09 08:45am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Some good advice
...........My Dodge has 695,000 miles on it.............
I am so embarrassed.....my two year old Duramax has a whopping 6300 miles on it!:o We only use it to tow the FW down to Florida (once to CO/AZ/NM) twice a year for a couple of months each time. The rest of the time the gal just sits in the garage. When I retired a few years ago I figured we'd travel a lot, and I suppose we're away from home a lot, but we really don't add the miles all that quickly!
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adVentureMan
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09/19/09 04:10am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Laptop connect to second network?
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2: Second Wi-Fi adapter on computer. set to Ad-Hock, it is linked only to the printer...........
That the plan for now, thanks a bunch!
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 12:20pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Laptop connect to second network?
..........
but you might be able to use BT for the printer connection, if the printer has BT or IF you get a BT adapter for your printer, the connection between the PC and the printer could be established via BT ..........
That's an option, as I THINK my laptop has BT. Not sure about the printer but I don't think so. Still, it is probably less expensive to just get another network card. The laptop has an internal one, and has lots of ports I could use for another card.....assuming they are USB, which I think most are. It also has other ports, the purpose of which I do not have a clue! :B
BT is limited to around 30ft or less, making it unlikey somebody else would see or be able to connect to your printer...
I have a password on the printer network, so I doubt others could use it, but even if they did try to do that it'd only happen once!
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 12:04pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Moving to A 5er
I can tell you for a fact that the "advertised" weights in the Cedar Creek brochures are grossly under the actual weights......
I believe the brochure weights are REALLY inaccurate, but the ones on the individual RV are more accurate, although I always assume the are dry weights. And I figure I will add 2000 lbs to individual RV's weight to figure my operational weight. It's tough to compute the weight put onto the truck though, and that's the one that's probably most critical to most of us, especial with non-dually trucks like mine. Part of the reason I went with the FW I did was it had a lower pin weight than other FWs we liked.
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 11:59am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Laptop connect to second network?
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.A second wifi card (as stated)..................
Thanks for the confirmation. I believe I will get a second WiFi card I can use with the laptop so I can print (while concurrently using the internal wireless (card) built into the laptop for the internt). I hope a quick visit to BestBuy or the like will find one of their computer-smart kids to help this old man out! Can you offer any recommendations on which WiFi card to get?
It will be nice to be able to print emails and other stuff while still connected to the 'net. I was getting around this by doing a "screen dump to a file" program, then logging off the internet, then logging onto the printer network and printing. Sorta of a PITA, right? :B
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 11:55am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Laptop connect to second network?
We use a wireless "N" router (WIFI) to Comcast cable to access the internet and have a wireless printer (HP 6980) and have no problem printing pages from the internet. We use a HP laptop with Vista (mine)and a Dell laptop with XP (hers).
Jim
Do you have two wireless connections running on your laptop? One for the internet, the other for the printer? I have been told I'd need two network cards to connect to two different networks.................
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 11:48am |
Technology Corner
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Laptop connect to second network?
I use my laptop to connect to the internet using a WiFi at our campground. No problems.
When I am NOT connected to the Wifi/internet I use my laptop to print to my wireless printer.......again, no problems. I use a wireless printer so I can put the printer in a convenient spot in my FW and not have a printer cable connected between the laptop and printer.
However, I cannot print to the printer when I'm connected to the internet.......I guess because to use the internet I must be connected to one network, and to use the printer I must be connected to a different network.....so I cannot connect to two networks.
I was told I can add a wireless network card and connect to a second network, so I could print while connected to the internet. But I have not tried that yet. Has anyone done that successfully? Any advice? My laptop is a fairly new HP Pavilion tx2000 model and the printer is a 1 year old one, I forget the model.
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 07:15am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Water heater
Warning: Kinda newb question. :)
So....this is gonna be my third year to winterize. I blow out the water lines and open the cold and hot spouts of the sink, outdoor shower, and indoor shower. I even open up the water source of the toilet. But, I still have some serious pressure when I empty the water heater via the anode. What am I missing? Is this the way its supposed to go?
Once the water source is removed from the RV just open a cold and hot side faucet.............that relieves the pressure when you remove the anode from the HWH.
There is a Wintering Check list at the link below that addresses that......here's a snippet:
2a. With no water source (pump off, no shore water connected), turn on each faucet and leave it on.
2b. Go outside and open the white plastic water valves for the fresh water tank, and the two "low point" valves (just forward of the right wheels on my 27RL).
3. DO THIS STEP ONLY IF THE WATER IS NOT HOT!! Remove the plug/anode at the hot
water tank (1 1/16-inch). You might get a little sprayed. Let the HWT drain for several
minutes. Replace the plug after deciding if it needs to be replaced next spring.
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 07:02am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Best way to charge house battery
hi All,
My house battery is low and I want to charge it so it's ready for some fall camping. .......
When I am not using my RV I bring its 12 volt battery back to the garage and connect it to a Battery Tender. That keeps is charged and prevents sulfidation, etc. Keeping the battery from going fully discharged also prolongs its life.
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 06:55am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Roadside Assistance
Good Sam is the best on the market. More then payed for itself many times .
Ditto. And it covers RVs, cars, trucks, and motorcycles.......maybe more?:) It's a bargain at about $100 a year.
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 06:43am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Real world gas mileage?
I don't use my truck much without towing, but I once checked it at 19 mpg.
Towing I get right at 11.3 mpg or so (my FW model is below).
I drive very conservatively, especially when towing. I set the cruise at about 62-63 mph, as that's the engine speed someone told me was most efficient.
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 06:36am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Moving to A 5er
........... Any suggestions and input is greatly appreciated.
Take a look at the "Tom Boles Pre-Delivery Checklist" in my link below. That's a great thing to use when you've made the decision which RV to get. It was written for doing a PDI on a motorhome, but it applies equally well to all the non-engine aspects of inspecting a potential RV.
I have used the PDI twice when I bought FWs and while it does take about 2 hours to complete the PDI, it saved me from many headaches and returns to the dealer to have items fixed after the sale.
You don't need to join anything or have a user ID or whatever at the Checklist Link below.
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adVentureMan
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09/18/09 06:33am |
Fifth-Wheels
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