download a service manual for a 625 leveling system from the hwh website. there should be a diagnostic section that covers your problem. if you have questions, please feel free to call me at 602-549-3638
i do work for hwh full time
i do not sell parts or solicit service vwork on this forum. i do diagnostics.
listen to doug
he doesnt get paid to answer all these posts.
he does it on his own. he doesnt solicit
service work or sell parts here
he does it, imo, because there is a need for
good substantiated answers, based on experience,
and the service manual
he sees many times the problems that an individual owner sees.
like i said, listen to doug. i havent seen a wrong answer yet.
i monitor this site, as well as others, and also answer questions.
there is no need to add my response, because it would be the same
i work for hwh full time. i also do not sell parts or service on this forum
geez, give it a rest. lots of folks make mistakes, they dont get nailed to the wall because of a spelling mistake. everyone knew what the op meant. everyone like a smart person, no one likes a smart ??? you dont make yourself look good by making someone else look bad.
you see this on every site. must be that someone has nothing else to contribute.
must be an english major
the jack extends because the fluid heats up and expands. if this is a new set of levelers, i would say that a hose had been run near a heat source. but its several years old, so i would say the springs are getting weak because of rust or road grime. you can either clean them with a wire brush or rust solvent, but if it was mine, i would replace them.
you can get them from hwh, stuarts in elkhart in, or on the internet.
the fluid doesnt have to be changed unless you have allowed it to be contaminated. it doesnt get very hot, it doesnt wear out and doesnt evaporate. it also has a 30 micron sock filter in the tank, in case something get into the tank while filling it.
if you dont have a visible leak, checking it once or twice a year is ok.
i work for hwh.i do not sell parts or solicit service work on this forum.
i do diagnostics
btw, im with doug on the blown hoses. hwh states in their manual that anytime
you have to go under the coach, that you use a jack stand or blocking.
its a safety issue that should never be overlooked, but is on a regular basis.
i work for hwh. i have worked on hwh jacks since 1973
hwh recommends either atf or wd 40. only.
some rv techs may have other ideas, but thats their opinion.
wd 40 is a solvent with fish oil in it as a small part of lubricant,
( i looked it up)
atf is the fluid that is used in the system. it cant hurt a thing on the jacks.
i know other mfg recommend other products, but
its your jacks, use what you think best.
i use dry silicone for a lot of things like my slide seals, my step and other areas that need lubrication. but not on my jacks.
when asked about age of your coach, just ask the age of the park.
and when was the last time it was upgraded. ive stayed in parks
with that rule, and it was marginal at best. the electric was
overloaded with all the coaches hooked to a couple of 110v feeds
supplying the whole park. only a few 50 amp services.
oh, and ask for pics if its over 10 years old.
i understand the purpose of the rule, but i have rules too.
my money my rules.
ps walmart doesnt ask the age of your coach
disconnect the negative battery cable. unhook the 110 volt cord from the pedestal or source.
hook an ohm meter between the cable and the battery. begin pulling fuses until the draw drops off. thats what the service tech should do.
the only place i know in boise is seventh heaven. i mostly work on hwh hydraulics, and have worked with them on some repairs. i think they are decent guys to work with, but i dont know about their billing.
i also replaced my rm1200 norcold cooling unit with an amish unit. i replaced both fans with some fans that i got at frys electronics. they moved more air. i replaced the thermostat for the fans.
i replaced the control circuit board with a dinosaur board. the norcold board had a very brown spot on where the 110 volt was supplied to the heating elements,
i would bet thats where all the fires originate. i have always ran mine on propane, so i dont know why there would be a section that was over heated from 110 volts.
the most important part i replaced, other than the cooling unit was the burner tube.
when i replaced the coil and ran the refrig, it still didnt cool to a very low temp. when i replaced the burner tube, it made an amazing difference. the man from pine refrigeration said he always replaces the burner when he does a cooling unit replacement.
i now have a refrig that works great even in las vegas during the summer. it was 115 degrees the 4 days we stayed there.
pine refrigeration is a great place to do business with
i also want to give doug credit for all those he has helped. its nice to have someone is willing to help.
surfside, you're my kind of guy. i have to give you a pat on the back for a job well done, persistence is the key.
i had a water pump lock up on me in las vegas, and it was also at a walmart.
the manager let me pull around back so i would be out of the way. i was able to replace the pump at night because the outside temp was 110 degrees during the day.
thanks to that manager i was able to solve a problem that the local dealer said would take 6 days.
i have done many repairs at a walmart parking lot as i travel between jobs.
lots of folks talk down about walmart, but i think walmart is great. all you have to do is ask.
if it is a jack line, it will self purge. if its a slide line, it will have to be bled. look up hose "a" bleed procedure. its in the bulletin section of the hwh site. call me if you have questions 602-549-3638. i work for hwh and live in arizona.
i do not sell parts or solicit service work on this forum.
if it takes that long to start, while cranking, you may have a bad glow plug. thats the way mine worked. it wouldnt start without cranking 30 to 50 seconds, after the prime time.
sometimes when it would start, blue smoke would billow out
i dropped the generator, pulled the glow plugs and tested them. one had failed. i replaced all three and now it starts right away.
its a job to remove the gen, so replace the fan belt and the fuel filter while you are doing the repair.
i got all my parts from napa. the glow plugs are ngk plugs.
the number is on the side of the plug.
i installed an amish cooling unit in 2014. last july, it went to no co.
i did all the resets on the circuit board, and the recall boxes.
still had no co. the norcold board had several very dark spots on it from overheating so, i replaced the circuit board with a dinosaur board, it worked, but it still didnt cool enough on lp.
i talked to the guys at pine refrigeration, and they recommended replacing the orifice and burner. they said it had enough corrosion inside the tube to cause the gas to not flow properly.
that worked. i now have 36 degrees with a 4 thermostat setting in the fresh food part of my frig. temp outside was in the 80's.
also for hot weather, make sure the fans are in working order. i now have two fans that are thermostatically controlled. when i pulled the refrig the first time, one of the fans was mounted upside down,
doug is right, clean burner and orifice are critical.and you cant adjust the burner. it only fits one way.