download a service manual from the hwh website for your leveling system.
it has wiring diagrams, and a diagnostic section that is easy to follow.
it should lead to a solution. it sounds like a failed 12 volt solenoid, but a hands on test will tell. pm me if you need help. i do work for hwh.
yeah, all you have to do is use one of those new fangled printers
you run the faxed copy thru scan, hit print,
and there you are, a paper version of the solenoid.
as foghorn leghorn says,
i say, its a joke, son
some of the salvage companies may be able to supply the part. you have to admit, its is quite old. maybe its time for a NEWER refrig. those can be found on the internet or at the salvage companies
colaws in carthage missouri, or arizona rv salvage are good places to start.
making your own parts is a good idea if you are sure to use the original sizes, and lengths. as far as the gas tube, size doesnt matter, as long it can be readapted to fit the original.
the fuel/air adjuster should be as close to original in shape and size
doug is right.
open the solenoid to one jack at a time, and see if the jack extends and retracts ok.
it will go down, and right back up. if it does not. its the cylinder.sometimes there is a groaning sound with the process.
the solenoids are normally full open or full closed. if it had debris in it, the jack will leak down. that should not affect extend.
as doug says, dexron 3. doesnt even have to be any specific brand. autozone, napa, oriellys. if you have clear fluid, its hwh brand of dexron 3.
just be sure to not use any other fluid, like power steering fluid, or brake fluid. they eat the seals.
as a side note, hwh does sell a fluid that is pourable at minus 50 degrees, for those who do winter camping. it provides very low retraction times.
if you want to do the installation yourself, camping world can sell you the parts.
measure the clearance from the ground to the bottom of the frame.
this is important to get the right length jack assembly. because if you get it wrong, it may be a problem returning the assembly without a restocking charge.
it will also determine whether straight down or kick down jacks will fit. it is not advisable to mix the two. look at the frame. is there room to mount the jack. you need about 8 inches of room lengthwise, and if you use kick downs, you need about 15 inches of room horizontally.
please contact me at 602-549-3638. i may be able to help you get the right parts.
the joystick system is the cheapest. it starts about $2400 or so. i dont have the figures right in front of me. but i can check. its on the internet.
doug has it right. the pic you posted shows a hwh hydraulic pump and tank.
it is not even remotely related to a chassis a/s system.
you are about to cause yourself a very expensive problem.
if you dont know this, you should consult someone who does.
information is free, all you have to do is ask.
download a service manual for your chassis a/c system. its available on the internet. sometimes totally free.
chassis air is notorious for not cooling enough. have the pressure checked by a local shop. ask if they are equipped to do the job of repairing the a/c system. truck shops are a good place to call. if they work on rv;'s.
dont proceed if you dont have good information. its very expensive to just throw parts at it.
i dont mean to be preachy, but this could get very pricy.
the plastic pads work in warm weather. they become brittle in colder weather. thats when you need them to keep your feet from freezing to the ground.
i use 2x12 lumber 24 inches long. bore a 3/4 inch hole in each corner.
use the awning rod for placement. any combination of ply wood or 2x material will work.
the pads prevent sinking into soft earth or blacktop. it also gives you extra upward capacity.
when cold it prevents freezing to the ground.
either way, its a good idea.
j-d, installation instructions for all hwh leveling systems are available on the hwh website.
maybe the bolt holes that are on the mounting brackets can be elongated enough to pivot the offending jack to miss the cross member?
sent you a pm
hwh does offer the straight down jacks for most class c models. however.
because some mfg install items in the way, or just because the dealer prefers to install the kick downs. they tell you only the kick downs will fit.
most of the ford, the sprinter chassis, will take straight jacks. if you insist on a quote, the dealer can provide them for you.
if you have a question about fit or application, please email me
email@example.com. i will find out for you. i dont quote price, i will leave thatup to the installer. i dont want to compete with our customers.
j-d is right, good advice.
all our systems are bolt on. welding on the newer chassis is a no-no according to mfg's.
if you are sure that its not a loose wire in the connector plug, check to see if its a solder connection on the circuit board. if thats the problem, maybe you or a local computer shop could repair that.
last resort is to send the box in to hwh and have them check it out. use firstname.lastname@example.org to request a rga tracking number. i would send both the touch panel and the control box.
the operators manual will not give you as much technical info as the service manual. both can be found on the hwh website.
if its hwh, the tank is where the motor is, its a horizontal tank.
if its power gear, its a vertical tank, just under the motor and valves.
identify your system by looking at the touch pad.
it will say either power gear, or hwh.
download a service manual for your system from the internet.
the manual will show a picture of the pump assembly.
as you say, theres no tank with the motor, you would be missing a tank.
is that trhe case?
the first step is to download a service manual. there is no substitute for correct, or at least good direction.
do the diagnostics. that should lead you to a cause and a solution.
the way i have always approached the situation is
#1 problem identify whether there is more than one problem, with the same system.
#2 cause. this is where the diagnostics weed out all the good guesses.
there is nothing that takes the place of a good hands on exam
there may be more than one cause
#3 solution. dont just throw parts at it. dont take short cuts. if you cant repair it, replace it.
has any one read the new construction code.
in arizona, they are talking about r49 insulation for attics.
the only way to achieve thar is with 24 inches of foam.
the new codes were written by construction companies, and suppliers.
its the retail customer, as usual, that gets the shaft.
with an approved shaft of course. it will show up on the bill.
probably under special services.
depending on the chassis, the price could vary a lot. if you want a full auto system, it is top of the line price. the joystick will be the lowest price. its a manually controlled system, and just about bullet proof in my opinion.
there is a straight acting jack set offered for the ford chassis.
kick downs will fit almost all models.
do your shopping. price isnt everything. it needs to be combined with confidence in your installer. a good shop is also worth something.
while i agree that they all use the same appliances, and systems, there is a reason some are cheaper than others. availability of repair parts are my greatest problem. all rv's need repairs, its the nature of the beast.
one problem is quality of construction. they way things are fastened together. one screw versus two, or staples versus screws. fit and finish go a long way, also quality of materials. we all know even a leather couch comes in different qualities.
name brand parts. if they only buy cheap off brand parts, will repairs even be able to be done.
the type of chassis used. there are cheap trailer chassis available that always show up here with weld or broken frame problems.
when it comes to motorhome chassis, we have little choice, so ti makes sense to buy from a reputable dealer.
how a dealer treats his customers is ,imho, the most important part of buying any product.
having someone who can work on your coach is as important as the price.
i could go on for two pages, but price isnt everything, quality and service are. there is a reason some rv's are cheaper than others.
not scared. respectful.
having driven many, many miles in various rv's. i have been thru the mountains. wolf creek pass, lizard head pass, logan pass. and some two lane roads, just not meant to be used by rv's. but you have to use common sense. be aware of where you are at, and what you are driving. careless driving gets you in trouble. sightseeing if for the passengers. your job is to drive the rv to the other side.
be respectful of the mountains, they will be there long after you have gone over the edge.