disconnect the negative battery cable. unhook the 110 volt cord from the pedestal or source.
hook an ohm meter between the cable and the battery. begin pulling fuses until the draw drops off. thats what the service tech should do.
the only place i know in boise is seventh heaven. i mostly work on hwh hydraulics, and have worked with them on some repairs. i think they are decent guys to work with, but i dont know about their billing.
i also replaced my rm1200 norcold cooling unit with an amish unit. i replaced both fans with some fans that i got at frys electronics. they moved more air. i replaced the thermostat for the fans.
i replaced the control circuit board with a dinosaur board. the norcold board had a very brown spot on where the 110 volt was supplied to the heating elements,
i would bet thats where all the fires originate. i have always ran mine on propane, so i dont know why there would be a section that was over heated from 110 volts.
the most important part i replaced, other than the cooling unit was the burner tube.
when i replaced the coil and ran the refrig, it still didnt cool to a very low temp. when i replaced the burner tube, it made an amazing difference. the man from pine refrigeration said he always replaces the burner when he does a cooling unit replacement.
i now have a refrig that works great even in las vegas during the summer. it was 115 degrees the 4 days we stayed there.
pine refrigeration is a great place to do business with
i also want to give doug credit for all those he has helped. its nice to have someone is willing to help.
surfside, you're my kind of guy. i have to give you a pat on the back for a job well done, persistence is the key.
i had a water pump lock up on me in las vegas, and it was also at a walmart.
the manager let me pull around back so i would be out of the way. i was able to replace the pump at night because the outside temp was 110 degrees during the day.
thanks to that manager i was able to solve a problem that the local dealer said would take 6 days.
i have done many repairs at a walmart parking lot as i travel between jobs.
lots of folks talk down about walmart, but i think walmart is great. all you have to do is ask.
if it is a jack line, it will self purge. if its a slide line, it will have to be bled. look up hose "a" bleed procedure. its in the bulletin section of the hwh site. call me if you have questions 602-549-3638. i work for hwh and live in arizona.
i do not sell parts or solicit service work on this forum.
if it takes that long to start, while cranking, you may have a bad glow plug. thats the way mine worked. it wouldnt start without cranking 30 to 50 seconds, after the prime time.
sometimes when it would start, blue smoke would billow out
i dropped the generator, pulled the glow plugs and tested them. one had failed. i replaced all three and now it starts right away.
its a job to remove the gen, so replace the fan belt and the fuel filter while you are doing the repair.
i got all my parts from napa. the glow plugs are ngk plugs.
the number is on the side of the plug.
i installed an amish cooling unit in 2014. last july, it went to no co.
i did all the resets on the circuit board, and the recall boxes.
still had no co. the norcold board had several very dark spots on it from overheating so, i replaced the circuit board with a dinosaur board, it worked, but it still didnt cool enough on lp.
i talked to the guys at pine refrigeration, and they recommended replacing the orifice and burner. they said it had enough corrosion inside the tube to cause the gas to not flow properly.
that worked. i now have 36 degrees with a 4 thermostat setting in the fresh food part of my frig. temp outside was in the 80's.
also for hot weather, make sure the fans are in working order. i now have two fans that are thermostatically controlled. when i pulled the refrig the first time, one of the fans was mounted upside down,
doug is right, clean burner and orifice are critical.and you cant adjust the burner. it only fits one way.
the pads get bent when the jack slips off the block under it. if your system is hwh, the foot is replacable.
part is available thru hwh. look up ap part number of jack in the parts manual. foot is listed as a separate part.
this time of the year, there is a larger differential between night and daytime temps. thermal expansion and contraction is whats causing the popping. goes up during the day, and down at night. try using wd40 on the shaft on each jack. that helps some. not sure there is a permanent cure.
i was sideswiped by a semi going north from las vegas;. went thru the canyon north of mesquite, and was passed several times by a semi. when her finally got near me the lase time, he apparently had a little road rage, and sideswiped me.
he wouldnt stop to exchange insurance info. he destroyed my rear view mirror.
i called 911, and reported him. the utah dps caught him and had him return to the flying j lust south of cedar city. utah officials called arizona dps and had them handle the report, and the tickets.
they asked him how fast he was going. he said 65 mph. i told them the speed limit was 55 in that area. ticket #1 speeding
he refused to stop for me when i signaled him. ticket #2 failure to stop at an accident.
i told them he had not signaled a lane change. ticket #3 failure to signal lane change.
the officer asked him if he reported the accident. he said there was no damage that he saw, so he didnt report it. ticker #4 failure to report an accident.
if you are wondering why the officers were so hard on him? when he came up to me at the beginning, he said one of the officers was a real smart a==, and that i had no business reporting him. after all, he was a professional driver, and i was in his way. just a side note, over the last 15 years, i have put over 400,000 miles on three motorhomes.
i simply went over to the officers and asked "which one of you is the smart a++,
they wanted to know where i got that from. i pointed to the driver.
i went as far to email his boss, and send him a bill for my new mirror. the boss apologized, and paid the bill without questioning.
winnebago does its own rotocasting. they make all their tanks. as well as most other plastic parts. they are one of the few who is not an assembler of parts. they make a lot of their components, all front and rear caps, cabinets, walls, roofs, and steel parts. take a tour of their factory. its very close to an automotive assembly line.
they have an amazing set up. they build a very good coach,
in my opinion.
jsore check your room switch. sounds like the solenoid side of the switch isnt working. if you want further info, download a service manual, and then call me. 602-549-3638. i can help. i do work for hwh.
i do not sell parts or solicit service work on this forum.
thanks, paul maddox
this is a confusing issue that lots of folks have. the manufacturer decides whether to install an extra breaker or fuse. not hwh. as doug said, they say the mfg may install one.
chinook used to install a resettable breaker that was harder than heck to find. once you know the location of the breakers, it works ok. they have a reputation of breaking often.
hwh jacks are self bleeding. no air in lines. if you have as joystick system, the valve for that jack is stuck open. the plunger and guide kit is available from hwh
if you have a push button system, the solenoid for that jack is open. did someone work on your system recently? if so, check the valve for that jack. it may have been left open. if not, it is stuck open. it needs to be replaced. if you need further help, call me at 602-549-3638. i do work for hwh. i live in arizona.
i do not sell parts or offer repair services on this site. i only offer help with diagnostics.
kmb, if you go on the hwh website, under contact us, there is a service request form. fill it out and request a rga to send in the jacks to be rebuilt. if you can do the replacement yourself, trust me, it will be a lot cheaper than having a dealer replace the jacks. you might as well do all four. you get a one year parts and labor warranty on the returned parts.
my cell is 602-549-3638 if you want to talk.
i do not sell parts online, nor do i solicit work. i do work for hwh and am available for diagnostic help anytime. btw, i am on pacific time.
olfarmer, you live in iowa. the factory is in moscow iowa. their phone number is 1-563-724-3396. they have overnight camping spots, with electric hookups. they are about 2 weeks out on appointments now because of the winnebago and fmca rally.
it would be beneficial to get your system checked out there.
many of the high line coaches use the flush style with the air seal. it gives a better seal, with no wind or water leaks. it also adds greatly to the looks of the coach. notice that newmar, foretravel, and many of the custom coaches use this style. this style requires a lot of attention to the fit and clearances.