hwh jacks are self bleeding. no air in lines. if you have as joystick system, the valve for that jack is stuck open. the plunger and guide kit is available from hwh
if you have a push button system, the solenoid for that jack is open. did someone work on your system recently? if so, check the valve for that jack. it may have been left open. if not, it is stuck open. it needs to be replaced. if you need further help, call me at 602-549-3638. i do work for hwh. i live in arizona.
i do not sell parts or offer repair services on this site. i only offer help with diagnostics.
kmb, if you go on the hwh website, under contact us, there is a service request form. fill it out and request a rga to send in the jacks to be rebuilt. if you can do the replacement yourself, trust me, it will be a lot cheaper than having a dealer replace the jacks. you might as well do all four. you get a one year parts and labor warranty on the returned parts.
my cell is 602-549-3638 if you want to talk.
i do not sell parts online, nor do i solicit work. i do work for hwh and am available for diagnostic help anytime. btw, i am on pacific time.
olfarmer, you live in iowa. the factory is in moscow iowa. their phone number is 1-563-724-3396. they have overnight camping spots, with electric hookups. they are about 2 weeks out on appointments now because of the winnebago and fmca rally.
it would be beneficial to get your system checked out there.
many of the high line coaches use the flush style with the air seal. it gives a better seal, with no wind or water leaks. it also adds greatly to the looks of the coach. notice that newmar, foretravel, and many of the custom coaches use this style. this style requires a lot of attention to the fit and clearances.
the blinking light is called a link light. you should have one on the touch panel, and led 39 on the control box also should be blinking.
go to the hwh website and download a service manual for the 625S system. there is a wiring diagram for the control box, touch pad, and the rest of the wiring harnesses.
if you are not getting a ground signal on the 9000 wire, it may not be the control box. do the diagnosis first. dont replace any parts without being sure you need them.
if you need more help, please free to call me at 602-549-3638. i do work for hwh. i can help. i live in arizona so we are on pacific time right now. my phone is always on. if i dont answer leave me a message. i will call you back asap.
if you dont call me, follow dougrainer's advise, he is one of the best on hwh problems.
most leveling systems are designed to be able to lift more than is necessary to raise the coach.
so, yes you can, but for liability purposes, all leveling system manufacturers state in the warranty portion of the manual that that is not to done. you should always use jack stands or some safe blocking when you remove a tire. if it falls on you, you assume all cost.
pirate, if you use the on line form. thats different from a call about how to service your system. someone will call you back, most of the time, the same day.
they will quote the price, and the shipping cost at that time. the reason they have to call you back is that they do not store credit card numbers. there are a lot of federal regulations that apply, ans a lot of cost, when you do that.
it takes a lot of experience to help someone over the phone. it also takes a lot of time, depending on the callers own expertise. calls can take 5
minutes, or sometimes an hour or longer. we dont cut a caller off, because he doesnt know what he needs.
there is never a charge for this diagnostic service either, even though we have 15 to twenty people answering the phone for all types of calls, from engineering, to just how to check the fluid level.
in a pinch, call me at 602-549-3638. i work for hwh also. i can help ,and am available on weekends, and evenings.
thats why its important to read the whole manual.
the operators manual tells you how to operate the system. if you really want to know about the system and how it works, there is no substitute for a service manual. i know i harp on that a lot, but it gives you information that is just not in the operators manual.
in the service manual, it explains how to identify what goes where. the harnesses are marked at each connection. in the event you cant find what you need, please feel free to call me at 602-549-3638. i can help.
im the first one to admit that i dont know all the answers, but i know who to ask, and i have their phone number. paul maddox
dahkota, you are right. most of the counter people are not young people.
many of them are retirees.
you wonder sometimes, if you had made different choices
in life, if that wouldnt be you.
be grateful for the blessings of a good education, and good choices.
also be patient, because of todays political climate, by all involved, you will be served by people who hold various college degrees in basket weaving, mountain bike riding, and other worthless areas.(prescott collegec in prescott az will allow you to chose such degrees, and tailor courses to give you a degree in that field.)
im just venting too. i get tired of people who cant even make change.
i know theres a learning curve, but the road should be straight somewhere along the way.
HAPPY CAMPING!!! be happy you are on the other side of the counter.
i just looked up that part number RAP7194 on the hwh price list, and the price is #31.80, not including shipping. i have access to the hwh list, not some guy quoting a price off his head. it hasnt changed since lune 2014.
doug is right. the old ring is usually cut in the process of removal.
if you do remove solenoids,just to check, order a seal packet or o-ring kit hwh number R92101.
there are o-rings enough to do it several times.
bigblock, that what i was trying to say. it is entertaining though to read thru some of the answers.i go thru all the different sections, looking for hwh problems, and stumbled on this one. it was just too much fun to stop reading.
you are going to have to either replace the cylinders, or have them rebuilt.
call hwh, and get a rga number to return the cylinders. thats the cheapest way to go. any other thing you do is a temporary fix.
jerry, check the roller bearing at the top left corner of the jack. it has to turn free for the jack to pivot.
spray it with wd 40 or some type of penetrating oil and loosen it with a pair of pliers. download a service manual at www.hwh.com. it covers this repair.
the manual says use wd40, not silicone. sorry, but hwh does not recommend silicone...
please feel free to call me at 602-549-3638 if you need help. i work for hwh.
thanks, paul maddox
the cap has to be twisting further than the rubber gasket is capable of covering. most of the time, the opening is just too large.
check how far the edge of cap sticks into the gasket groove when the windshield is just sitting normally. sometimes its not enough, and you will have to apply some fiberglass to the edge of the cap. this is normally the cause. ive had to do this to a lot of coaches, especially fleetwoods. with tiffins it has been a rare occurrence.
doug is correct about the rooms. if your coach has below the floor mechanisms, the rooms have to be retracted. if they have above the floor mechanisms, the rooms have to be extended. jacks should always be retracted.
in any case. one inch below the top of the tank is the right fluid level. if you're not sure, check it with the rooms retracted. that normally good enough. it doesnt have to be that accurate. just dont overfill.
stuart. i live in paulden az. north of prescott.
please feel free to call me anytime. 602-549-3638
anyone with a problem is welcome to call.
i do work for hwh, and do diagnostics only.
i dont do warranty authorizations or sell parts.